This was for my '92 4 door EB Explorer. Relieve the fuel system pressure (with the engine running, pull the fuel pump fuse, wait until it dies, then crank a few more times to be sure). Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the two small flange nuts on the right side (passenger) of the fuel tank. Remove the small screw on the front side and one bottom bolt. Remove the small piece of the skid plate / shield assembly. Now comes the big piece (50 lbs.?). Remove the remaining bolt on the bottom-front and the two bolts in the middle holding the skid plate / shield assembly to the frame. Mine were very well rusted and required several iterations of loosening as far as possible, dousing with WD-40, then TIGHTENING back up in order to get the lubricant in the threads, then loosen again (don't let the plate fall on your face after the last bolt - it's heavy). Now slide the plate backward and it's all free. This was all done without raising the vehicle, but to get the skid plate / shield assembly out from under I had to raise the side of the vehicle.
|Now comes the plastic fuel tank. I had about 1/4 tank left when I did this. It would be a lot easier empty (siphoning was going too slow). Loosen the two hose clamps at the rear of the tank. Disconnect the two hoses. Disconnect the electrical connection to the fuel tank (it's in the left frame, behind the tank, try not to break BOTH tabs in the process). Support the rear of the tank with a hydraulic jack and a piece of wood to distribute the weight (important if there is still gas inside). Remove the bolt from the retaining strap (again very well rusted). Bend the strap, and slide it up out of the left frame for removal. Slide the tank forward enough to drop the front side to the ground (the rear is still supported by the jack - you may need to lower it a bit). Now you can see the three remaining hose connections. The fuel vapor connection just pulls off. The other two require the special fuel line tool (two different sizes - the metal one NAPA sells worked well). I still got a little fuel bath - can't seem to ever totally relieve the fuel line pressure (wear safety glasses). Fully lower the jack, then use it to lift up the side of the vehicle to slide the tank out (on a smooth surface so as to not puncture the tank).|
Clean the top of the fuel tank well. Remove the large (4" OD ?) lockring. Mine was so rusted I collapsed it into a figure 8 and pulled it out. Clean again. Then pull the fuel pump / sending assembly out. Don't bend the floater in the process. Push the (+) electrical connection tab in and disconnect. Disconnect the (-) electrical connection. Pull the filter off the fuel pump bottom (probably destroying it in the process). Remove fuel pump (easier said than done, I was replacing the whole sending unit and didn't have to, my Ford Refurbished unit ($120) came with everything).
When putting it all back together, wipe the inside of the tank with a clean, lint free rag. When tightening the lockring back down, lube the surfaces first (I used plumbers o-ring lube since it was already out from the new o-ring). When it's all back together, turn the key to ON (not starting), leave for 5 seconds, then off, then ON (not starting) a few times to fill the lines with fuel again. Good luck. Oh, and of course, if you blow yourself up or do anything painful in the process, don't hold me liable - thanks.
Jay Ripp did a quality and complete job explaining the procedure for replacing the fuel pump. There are just a few specific things I think need adding. In no special order:
- When you finally pull the pump assembly out of the tank, do it slowly noting the orientation of the pump, float, float arm, and especially the rectangular (nylon?) filter at the base of the pump. You'll need to align all this stuff up again before replanting.
- The two small flange nuts on the passenger side of the tank protector are 10mm, the little screw in the front of the protector is 8mm and all other bolts are 13mm. The 13mm's are all the same length EXCEPT the one that bolts the skid plate to the frame near the LR wheel- it's longer.
- When reinstalling, make sure you get the metal strap over the forward part of the tank before installing the rear strap that goes under.
- Remember to put the clips back onto the fuel lines when reinstalling.
- Prices for just the fuel pump run fro $50-$125 and all come with a lifetime warranty. I figure they can do that as the hassle is the installation, not the part. For my '92, Pep Boys asked if I had an early or late model. I said early, they gave me the appropriate Borg-Warner, and it wasn't correct. Ended up going to Auto Zone, got one identical to mine, so far so good.
I figure it's prudent to hold off changing the fuel filter until you've run a tank full of gas with the new pump. Hopefully this will collect any contaminants that you may have dislodged. After that tank, I'd change the fuel filter, check fuel rail pressure to ensure the regulator's OK, pour a bottle of Techron in and burn up that tank. After this tank is gone, reset the computer after filling with 87 octane and romp a little bit. Also take a few of those little hills that you go up in OD, low RPM, that really cause things to ping.
Step by step Ford Explorer Fuel tank Re-installation guide
Before re-installing the fuel tank take the time to treat the surrounding area for any rust damage.
1) Flush the tank to ensure it is free of any contaminants; Contaminants will strain the pump and cause its premature demise.
2) Install tank hangers into frame rail slots.
3) Evenly support the fuel tank with a floor jack and 12"x20"x1/2" piece of plywood. duct tape the plywood to the jack to keep it from moving around.
4) Inspect fuel lines for any sign of contaminants or defects. The garter springs inside the hose fitting should be symmetrical.
5) Raise tank enough to re-connect high pressure fuel lines, safety clips, and the evaporator hose.
6) Reconnect the fill hoses to the rear of the tank.
7) Raise the tank into position and install the rear hanger bolt. Keep the hanger bolt hole flush against the mounting nut to prevent bolt damage from the hole cutting into the bolt as it is tightened.
Don't tighten any of the bolts in the following section until they have all been installed. This will give you enough play to easily align/install all bolts.
8) Evenly support the skid plate with a floor jack.
9) Position the rear Skid plate bracket over the leaf spring.
10) Install the front skid plate lip into its slot and install the driver's side bolt.
11) Install the bolt nearest the rear wheel.
12) Install the middle bolt.
13) Install the front hanger bolt.
14) Install the heat shield, its screw, and flange nuts.
15) Install the remaining front bolt.
16) Tighten all bolts.
17) Install the fuel fill neck.
18) Re-connect the electrical connection.
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