Fuel Pump Removal and Installation
1995 -2001 Explorer


Contributed by Gregory B.

THE PROBLEM

This is for a 1995 Explorer XLT. About three weeks after I bought it, I notices a kind of electrical hum noise coming from God knows where while the engine was running. The vehicle had no derivability problems yet. I thought It was an electric radiator fan or after run blower fan of some sorts. After looking around under the hood, being unfamiliar with Ford, I learned that wasn't the case. I noticed I heard the noise every time I turned the ignition key on even when the engine was not running. I had my wife cycle the ignition on and off while I hunted the noise down. I used a mechanic's stethoscope to isolate the noise in the fuel tank. I concluded the fuel pump must be the problem.

RECOMMENDED TOOLS

THE REPAIR

I did the repairs at work using a lift and air tools. After I finished, I realized I could have done it in my garage using a good 3 ton or higher floor jack and 5 ton {min} jack stands. The air tools made the job easier; but, are not necessary. The job from start to finish took about 2 hours.

Run as much gas out of the vehicle as possible. the emptier the better.

Disconnect the negative battery post for safety's sake.

Loosen the lug nuts on the driver's rear wheel {for later removal}

Jack the vehicle up in the rear from both sides as high as safely possible.

Place extended floor jacks under frame rails. {use common sense safety}

With vehicle safely raised, test stability buy jolting rear bumper {be reasonable} better the vehicle falls now rather than when you are under it.

Remove driver's rear wheel to access fuel filler and fuel hoses.

Disconnect the two big fuel filler lines from the rear of the tank. Ford uses a plastic pinch clamp and rubber O rings. Its might take alittle effort to squeeze the pinch clamps, but don't worry, you'll get it. Wrap a rag around the clamps to get a better grip. Try not to use channel lock pliers, they will break the plastic clamps. Squeeze and wiggle the hose until it slides off the fuel tank.

Remove the safety clips on the two fuel lines at the pump. Using the special ford tool, slide the tool under the fuel pump hose clamp and pull both clamps off pump housing. They can be a little pain in the butt, but after you move them around and work with them, they will slide off. Be patient.

Place the floor jack under the fuel tank, putting the wood between them.

Remove the fuel tank strap bolts at the rear of the tank note the position of the rubber bushings and metal washers.

Remove the side fuel tank strap bolts on the side of the tank. DON'T LET THE FUEL TANK DROP AT THIS POINT. THE NEOPRENE VENT HOSE ON TOP OF THE TANK IS STILL CONNECTED. SLOWLY LOWER THE TANK TO ACCESS THE BREATHER VENT HOSE AT THE TOP OF THE TANK.

Just like the fuel filler neck hose, squeeze the pinch clamp on the vent hose and remove it...slowly. these clamps will break if abused.

Double check all hoses are cleared. cover the ends of the hoses to prevent dirt from entering the fuel system. { I used plastic warp from the kitchen}

Disconnect the electrical plug for the fuel pump located on the driver's side rear frame rail. It is secured in place by a tie-wrap locator clamp.

Lower the tank and clear it away from the vehicle. TAKE A BREAK...

Note the position of the pump housing in reference to the tank. the hose lines on the pump plate point off to the side a little.

Remove the 10 or so retaining bolts which hold the pump/sender in place.

Gently lift the assembly out of the tank, as not to bend the float arm or tear the nylon pump screen off and having it fall in the tank.

There is nothing to take apart, Ford sells the pump and float as an assembly. Parts are available after market; But, This is a job you want to avoid doing twice in the same year if possible. I recommend using the Ford factory parts. You get what you pay for.....

ASSEMBLING NOTES

Use electric contact grease on the fuel pump plug if available. It is a weather pack seal; but, the grease keeps condensation from forming on the inside of the connector.

Use a little silicone spray on the fuel filler and breather hose O ring seal before connecting back on the tank. It helps them slide on better. You'll hear the clamps click when they are seated correctly.

Fill the tank with enough fuel to get vehicle running. Check for any leaks or fuel odors. If ok...head for the gas station.

Connect the battery. Be sure the ignition is off to decrease the spark at the battery post.

Start the vehicle and allow the Engine Control Unit to adapt. When the power is dis-connected, the engine control unit has to learn the running values again. Don't worry, it only takes a minute or two. The ride to the gas station is more than enough.

The best part of this repair is you probably saved yourself about 2 to 3 hundred dollars. Hope I didn't confuse anyone.....

 


 

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Added November 21, 2000

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