Water Pump Replacement


Contributed by Richard C.

I noticed there were no entries for replacing the water pump, although this procedure is deemed in depth to some do it yourselfers it's really not a difficult chore on this vehicle.

After you remove the throttle body cover and air crossover tube to the throttle body it's time to read up on a previous article on removing the fan clutch. It is attached to the water pump shaft with a 1 7/16 nut mine was right had threads but it is molded into the fan shroud at the top. There is really no substitute in my books for the special tools to remove this item as there is little clearance in that area. The tools consist of two flat wrenches about a 1/4 inch thick. One fits the nut and the other with a much wider jaw fits over the bolts on the water pump pulley. Some automotive parts houses loan these out for a deposit (I got mine from the local Autozone). Once the fan clutch is loose remove the two bolts at the top of the fan shroud and lift the whole thing straight up and set it out of the way.

Next remove the serpentine belt by putting a 5/8" wrench or socket on the tensioner bolt and raising it up to release the tension on the belt. Next remove the four bolts on the pump pulley using a screw driver or such between two of the bolts to hold the pulley from turning until all the bolts are loose then remove them by hand and set them and the pulley aside. now the pump can be accessed. Remove the lower radiator hose and heater hose from the pump and move them out of the way. Next there is a small bracket to the right as you look at the pump - it braces the pump to the larger framework that holds the power steering pump and A/C compressor, this bracket has two bolt and two nuts holding it. Remove these and set them aside.

Now you can remove the twelve small bolts holding the pump to the front of the engine. The Haynes manual said these were different lengths but mine were all the same. After you remove the pump clean the old gasket from the front of the engine so the new gasket will seal well (this is not an area you want to see leaking after you assemble everything). Place good RTV type sealer to the new pump surface and place the gasket on the pump. I usually do this before I get started so it will set up by the time I'm ready for it. Next place RTV sealer on the gasket and place the pump on the engine starting a couple of bolts to hold it in place. Next start the rest of the bolts before tightening any of them and after all the bolts are started they can be tightened in a cross pattern to ensure the pump doesn't warp. Do not over tighten these bolts just get them good and snug. THIS IS A GOOD TIME TO CHECK HOSES AND CLAMPS WHILE YOU'RE DOWN THERE.

Finally replace every thing in reverse order and fill the radiator with fresh antifreeze and water. It took me about two and a half hours this time but if i had to do it again i'm sure i could trim that time in half. Cost of parts including the pump, RTV, gallon of anti-freeze, and four feet of heater hose and two clamps was about $80.00.


 

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Added November 21, 2000

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