Hey all. Well, I posted this in another thread, but it looks like my X (Dubbed Peet) is going to be getting a new shiny Transfer Case from Ford (as long as they don't try to come up with an excuse as to why they shouldn't have to replace it).

This leads me to a very important question, my X is getting higher on Mileage (and my Extended Warranty runs out in 2500 miles), and I'm wondering what type of service should I do to ensure My Driveline is protected for the future?

I was looking at rebuilding the T-Case, but it looks like Ford is doing that for me. I was also looking at have all synthetic Tranny Fluid put in the Transmission (with a full flush at the same time to ensure its squeaky clean). I was looking at swapping out my Front and Rear Differentials with all new Synthetic Fluid (I have some 75w90 laying around her, Royal Purple, but I think ours takes 140). ANd Lastly, have all the u-joints replaced (preferrably with new Greasable ones).

What I'm wondering is if you guys think this covers everything and if you think there's anything here I shouldn't have to worry about. I really don't have the money for all this service, but I also don't have the money for a new car, so I'd rather pick the lesser of two evils.

Also, with nearly 82k on the clock, what order do you think I should do these in? Thanks for any help.

let ford rebuild the transfer case.... then i would bring it home and change the tranny fluild myself..... i wouldnt worry to much about the axle fluids unless you drive offroad alot in water or mud..... just check to make sure that they are filled up.... as far as the u-joints go... unless they are making noise or you know how to change them yourself... (not that hard) then leave them alone. I would not have ford change these parts unless there going to cover them under your warranty as this will cost you lots of $$$$ you can do your own tranny fluid change for 40-50 and the u joint parts should be about 10-12 bucks a piece from a parts store wiith a lifetime warranty.....axle fluid rear change is easy... unbolt the cover...let drain.... seal the cover back up with some rtv and fill up with oil of choice and some friction modifier if you have limited slip.....should cost you less than 200 bucks if you do it all yourself....might want to have ford check your brakes... they should do this for free if you have it in the shop.... act like your interested in fixing them and then if they tell you they need to be replaced ask what parts are worn out... then tell them you'll have to wait on that a little bit.... hope this helps

97BlackX5.0, cool, that's very helpful.

Couple of notes. I understand all your saying, on changing the fluids myself, I would, but I live in an Apartment complex and am not allowed to change any fluids (already gotten in trouble twice for this, third time and I'm kicked out), so I would probably have to have a shop do this. I know a tranny shop here that will do it fairly cheap if I buy the fluid (which I would, becuase I like to know what's going in).

On the U-Joints, I have done those on past vehicles ('84 K-5 Blazer). How big a deal are they on the Explorer? I know its harder because the K-5 I could literally sit upright under and the Explorer I can't even slide under without jacks. On my Blazer, it was just 4 U-Boltish looking things, but my Hayneds manual makes it seem harder, are the U-Joints pressed into the Driveshaft on one side? Also, I was told by a tranny shop that if you replace them all you need the Driveshafts to be balanced, but since it looks like the Joints that connect to the Transfer case are some sort of Constant Velocity Joint, I would not replace these and would not need to worry about this.

I have worked a bunch on cars, but alot of the time I worked with my Best Bud who is a mechanic, so it was easy for me to ask these easy questions my first time, but now that I'm off at college, its not quite so easy. Thanks for any help =).

take it up to a local mall or shopping center and park way out in the back to change your fluids.... just make sure you have everything you need..... that way you dont get in trouble with your apartment complex.... you probably will make a mess changing the tranny fluid so i would finda place where there are not alot of people around.... On the u joints... the easiest way to do the front ones is to mark the shaft alignment and then unbolt both ends.... its 4 torx bolts on the front side and like 8 - 10mm bolts on the cv side... then you can take the whole shaft out and work on it.... you can usually pound that joint out pretty easy or even just take the shaft to a shop to have it pressed in and out... should be like 10 bucks or something.... now for the rear joints i have no idea as i have never replaced those... my truck has 123k on it and have never had a problem so as far as the saying goes if it aint broke dont fix it....

I've said it before and I'll say it again

Switching to synthetic ATF in a vehicle thats been in use for awhile is a very bad idea.

why?

The AT works by friction. Friction is what makes the clutches grab the metal and provide power to the wheels.

Introduce synthetic ATF to a used tranny and what you are doing is putting a slippery substance into a transmission that is worn to a degree. There is a much greater chance of causing your transmission to slip now since the clutch plates are worn, the metal plates are worn, the bands are not as tight as they used to be, etc.

A better alternative would be to add on an external cooler like a B&M.

Thank you both. I believe what I'm going to do is do a Flush on the Transmission with Mercon V being put in (whether on my own or at a shop, I don't know yet, finding a corner of a parking lot that's empty in Sacramento is pretty much impossible). Also, I'll probably be adding an external tranny cooler, a Tranny Temp Sensor and possibly a Shift Kit.

I've decided I'm going to wait on it all until warranty is up (~3,000 miles) because I don't want something to go and have them not cover it because of it.

Thank you all for your replies though... they are all very helpful.

how do u check the differential fliuds???

Well, one way is there's a plug on the Differential (the fill plug). If you want to check without just changing it, you can pull the plug you can use that to check the condition of the fluid.

how much does it cost to change it yourself??/ and the plug u are talking about, is that at the top and is it a bolt sort of???

Ya, that's the bolt. As for to change it yourself, its not too bad. I think I paid like $15 - $20 for the fluid. Then you've gotta get some RTV to seal it after you have pulled the cover and let it all drain and before you put the new fluid in.

pretty self explanatory right, take off the cover let it drain, put it back on, pull that bolt and put fliut in there right? how much fluit and what kind, thanks for the help man