I've done a quick search and didn't find what I was looking for. I'm not rebuilding the tranmission I'm only swapping a good one in for a bad one. I've got two 92 Explorers (sport & EB) 4X4 with the push button transfer case. One was wrecked with a brand new tranny in it and the other is not wrecked but has a dead tranny.

I've never done this before and want to know as much as I can before I attempt this. Can someone outline the basic steps for removal and re-install? What problems will I encounter, what special tools will I need, and how do I support the tranny while it's coming out and the new one is going in.

Dig in and share what you know, I'm going to start Saturday so I'll need your advice.

Sure! First thing we need to know is 5 speed or automatic?
I assume automatic because well one's dead.

Do you have the Hayes or Chiltons repair manual?
Great place to start.
Do you have tools?

Sorry, it's an Auto. I've got tools and some basic know how but I'm no mechanic. I'm heading out right now to pick up the Eddie Bauer that I'll be putting the good tranny into.

Similar to a4ld minus some electronic connectors
4x4

1.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2.Remove two bolts retaining the fan shroud to the radiator. Remove the transmission fluid level indicator.
3.Raise the vehicle and position suitable safety stands.
4.Remove four skid plate bolts and the skid plate.
5.Mark the relationship of the driveshaft centering flanges, rear axle companion flange, and transfer case flange so the driveshaft can be installed in the original position.
6.Remove four bolts retaining the driveshaft centering flange to the rear axle companion flange. Remove four bolts retaining the driveshaft centering flange at the transfer case flange. Remove the rear driveshaft.
7.Mark the front driveshaft at the transfer case yoke and U-joint flange. Remove four bolts retaining the front driveshaft at the transfer case yoke and at the U-joint flange. Remove the front driveshaft.
8.Remove the bolts and nuts from the catalytic converter outlet and muffler inlet. Using mechanics wire, secure the muffler and tailpipe assembly to the vehicle. Remove three nuts from the crossover-to-converter inlet and discoonect the HO2S connector. Disconnect the converter from the hanger and remove it from the vehicle.
9.Disconnect the shift cable from the lever and bracket. Position the cable aside. Disconnect two rear HO2S connectors and the locator.
10.Remove four bolts from the crossover pipe and remove the crossover.
11.Position a drain pan. Disconnect the heat shield from the transmission pan. Remove the transmission pan bolts and drain the transmission. Position the transmission pan and install the bolts, using the original gasket. Connect the heat shield to the pan and remove the drain pan.
12.Remove the ground wire nut at the starter motor and position the wire aside. Remove the starter stud and bolt. Position the starter aside.
13.NOTE: Flexplate-to-converter nuts are not reusable.
Mark the relationship of a converter stud to the flexplate. Rotate the torque converter and remove four flexplate-to-converter nuts. Discard the nuts.
14.Remove one upper right bell housing bolt and the fluid level indicator tube.
15.Disconnect the transmission cooler lines and install protective caps on the lines.
16.Disconnect the vehicle speed (VSS) sensor connector. Remove the nut and the vehicle speed (VSS) sensor. Disconnect the transer case vent tube hose and the shift motor connector.
17.Position a jack stand to support the engine.
18.Position a transmission jack, raise it to the transmission, and secure it with a safety chain.
19.Remove the left and right crossmember bolts and nuts. Remove the transmission mount nuts. Remove the crossmember and slightly lower the transmission.
20.Disconnect both transmission 16-pin connectors at the rear of the left and right cylinder heads. Remove the transmission-to-engine bolts.
21.CAUTION:The torque converter must separate fromt he flexplate and remain seated in the transmission. The transmission must not tip forward, as the torque converter could fall out while lowering the transmission.
Separate the transmission from the engine and carefully lower the transmission from the vehicle.

real good list thanks

Thanks for printing this list of instructions! People constantly ask how to remove & install transmissions. I've renamed, and moved this thread to the transmission section. I'll make it a sticky thread for a while, but it should have a step by step procedure with pictures for people that have a hard time visualizing written text when they have never done this before.

that helps me out to lol.i got my tranny most of the way back in but it wont go that kast little click,im ready to burn the dam thing. a weekend job turns into a 2 week job and it being my daily driver doesnt help.but thanks for posting that thread.

Factory repair manual! Chilton and Hanynes are good for starting fires..

Haha. Yea got to get that digital Ford Shop Service manual.

I have a quick question though. I am doing the Timing Chain repair and we almost have the engine out just have to finish disconnecting the tranny. What is the best way to get to the top two Transmission to Engine bolts?

Thanks.

Get a long extension (possibly even a wobble extension), and sockets with universals connected to them (one piece socket/U joint design).

K. I'll give it a try. My brother was trying to get them while I was at football so we'll see what we can do tomorrow.

Thanks.

Edit: Would it just be easier to pull the transmission and engine out together? It's an automatic by the way.

Wow. Didn't mean to make new post. Sorry.

This will be hard to do without a lift, and a special engine crane. You might need a gantry crane since it will be heavy. I once broke an engine crane lifting a 3.0L without the transmission connected to it.

I want to leave it in. We are using a 2 ton Engine Hoist to lift it.

... How did you break a hoist with just the 3.0L being hoisted?

I was jacking it up, and the piston was struggling, then the piston broke. I bought another piston, and tried again, then it was still struggling until the boom, and another part started to bend. I had a machine shop put the boom into a hydraulic press to straighten it out, but I was still having problems. I ended up lifting the body to remove the engine, and transmission. I was able to move the engine & transmission myself so I can't understand why this tool didn't work. Another strange thing. It was my old 89 Mercury Sable. Since it's a front wheel drive, the engine has to be supported with a special hanger. The hanger also got bent, and wasn't usable. It seems like they are making tools out of butter instead of steel.

In the past I have used a 3 foot extension with a U-joint. I have also used a combination wrench through the wheel wells with the wheels off. Also you will have no problem pulling the engine with a picker. Usually front wheel drive vehicles with inverse engines the engine needs to come out the under side.

Yea. We were able to get to both of them at the top. I'm going to get a combination wrench tomorrow to get them loose though. Thanks for the Help.

when i pull the tranny is it ok to remove the torque converter and drain it?

You have to remove the torque converter anyway since it's better not to reuse an old one. It has dirty fluid in it.

yeah i agree with the burning instruction manuals...they cause more work than do good.

im currently trying to remove the transmission on my 95 ranger 2.3
all i have left to do is to remove the top two bolts which sound easy but ive spent almost a month on this already i removed the passanger side bolt by removing the air intake and using a 13mm wranch the other bolt is nearly impossible to get from the top because of the dipstick and that stupid exhaust recycaling tube then i tried to lower the tranny down so i could reach the bolt from the bottom using a long extension and no luck it kept slipping off, i tried a swivel socket too with no luck so i went and got these bolt out sockets where the 13mm one is too small for that bolt and a 14mm is too large.
im out of ideas

Any idea how long it should take an average guy to pull a trans out of a '96 ?

Is there plenty of room to slide it out with car sitting on 4 stands ?


Thanks,

It's safer to use 4 ramps instead of jack stands since they could wobble. You should be able to do it in a few hours.

The labor time they give you for flat rate is 6.1 hrs. The only way your going to be able to do it in a few hours is if you use a lift, have all the proper tools, know what you are doing, and you run into no issues. If your going to be on your back and you've never done this before, I'd give yourself plenty of time and maybe get a helper. An A/O torch is your friend for getting the y-pipe off the exhaust manifolds. I've also never had a problem using jack stands.

This link has removal & installation instructions: http://racetransmissions.com/mainpages/tech_info/ford_trans_install/FORD_INSTALLATION_INSTRUCTIONS.pdf