i have tried searching and have gotten conflicting answers.....

my seal for my rear differential seems to be bad, and oil is leaking out. i was looking at it, and it appears that the gasket/seal is hanging out from the seal. when i take it apart to fix it, should i use a gasket to seal it? or some sealer like silicone? i thought you just sealed it up with something like RTV sealant, but it appears there is a gasket.

also, roughly how much oil will i need to refill the diff? and will i need some sort of injector? thanks, todd.

You can get the gasket or RTV it. I prefer to use a gasket since its easier to clean if you have to do frequent fluid changes or occasional maintenance.

so neither one is necessarily "better"? especially considering it might get sumberged in water? and what is the cost for a seal compared to RTV? thanks, todd.

I've heard many people say RTV is better. My gasket that was put on about 500 miles ago with my gear change is leaking. I plan on ditching it for RTV sealant.

thanks!

also, roughly how much oil will i need to refill the diff? and will i need some sort of injector? thanks, todd.

There is a 3/8ths drive plug on the right side of the differential if you are looking out the back (it is on the side of the gas tank). Remove that and fill til the fluid is leaking out of the fill hole. Then replace the plug. Its hard to say how much you need, but I would guess no more than a quart. So buying a quart of gear lube should be sufficient

-Drew

Its hard to say how much you need, but I would guess no more than a quart. So buying a quart of gear lube should be sufficient

umm i think its more than one quart of gear oil.. check this thread (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133565&page=1&pp=20)

Its hard to say how much you need, but I would guess no more than a quart. So buying a quart of gear lube should be sufficient

-Drew
My HAYNES manual says 5.5 to 5.8 pints, which is just under 3 quarts.

yes. just under 3 qts is the info i've gathered. thanks to all for the help. any recommendations on specific oils? any with experience good or bad?

CAPACITIES
Engine, with filter..........5.0 quarts[1]
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........13.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, Others Initial Fill..........3.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, 4R70W Initial Fill..........5.0 quarts[2]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
4R70W..........14.0 quarts
2wd ..........9.5 quarts
4wd ..........9.9 quarts
Manual Transmission, ..........5.5 pints
Differential, Dana 35 Front..........3.6 pints[3]
Differential, Rear..........5.5 pints[4]
Transfer Case,Warrner 4405..........3.0 pints
Transfer Case,Warner 1354..........2.5 pints

1. When refilling, remove dipstick to provide adequate venting
and allow oil to flow into crankcase.
2. With ENG automatic transmission operating temperature, shift through all
gears. Check fluid level in PARK and add fluid as needed.
3. Fill no higher than 9.5 mm or 3/8 inch below fill plug.
4. Fill to no more than 1/4 to 9/16 inch below fill plug hole.
Do not use synthetic lubricant in axles using RTV sealant.
Synthetic lubricant will chemically atack RTV sealant.

so what are my non-synthetic choices for rear diff? preferrably with a friction modifier already added?

so what are my non-synthetic choices for rear diff? preferrably with a friction modifier already added?
why go with dino oil?

not sure what you mean?

also, i was just looking, and my breather hose definately broke off. the inlet for the breather was totally clogged with nasty sand and dirt. is there any way to clean this out completely? should i spray some cleaner in the breather hole, and let it drain awhile longer?

i am planning on putting new extended breather hoses on all necessary parts (front and rear diff, tranny, t-case)

There is a 3/8ths drive plug on the right side of the differential if you are looking out the back (it is on the side of the gas tank). Remove that and fill til the fluid is leaking out of the fill hole. Then replace the plug. Its hard to say how much you need, but I would guess no more than a quart. So buying a quart of gear lube should be sufficient

-Drew

is this located on the front side of the differential (toward the front of the vehicle on the drivers side)? that is the only plug i could find, although it appears threaded on the outside? what do i need to remove this? it almost seems like an allen wrench.

not sure what you mean?
What i meant was, why go with non-synthetic oil (dino oil) instead of synthetic? I mean I understand if you're going to open your differential again in a short time but if you dont plan on cracking the differential often, then go with fully synthetic.

is this located on the front side of the differential (toward the front of the vehicle on the drivers side)? that is the only plug i could find, although it appears threaded on the outside? what do i need to remove this? it almost seems like an allen wrench.
yeah that would be the plug, its not actually an allen wrench.. its just a square hole.. what you need is a 3/8" socket driver (with an extension), just stick the extension into that hole and unbolt the plug off. before you remove the differential cover, make sure you can remove this plug. you do not want to find out later that you somehow cant remove the plug after you've already removed all of the oil from the differential.

http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/images/sk-85663.jpg

also, i was just looking, and my breather hose definately broke off. the inlet for the breather was totally clogged with nasty sand and dirt. is there any way to clean this out completely? should i spray some cleaner in the breather hole, and let it drain awhile longer? i am planning on putting new extended breather hoses on all necessary parts (front and rear diff, tranny, t-case)
the inlet for the breather should not be clogged. if it is, your axle could be leaking out from the axle seals (located at the end of each axle tube). be careful on cleaning the breather fitting, you do NOT want to push any of that dirt into the differential! Dont spray cleaners into the breather hole as the cleaner will more than likely end up inside the differential! i guess you just have to carefully vacuum the dirt out. well, i guess it would be okay to push all the dirt and cleaner through the breather fitting IF you can somehow get to the other side of the hole after you've opened the differential and catch all the crud with a papertowel or something. BUTTTTT, i think the ring gear will be in your way so i dont think you can get to the breather hole from the inside. But check it out, you may be able to.

What i meant was, why go with non-synthetic oil (dino oil) instead of synthetic? I mean I understand if you're going to open your differential again in a short time but if you dont plan on cracking the differential often, then go with fully synthetic.


yeah that would be the plug, its not actually an allen wrench.. its just a square hole.. what you need is a 3/8" socket driver (with an extension), just stick the extension into that hole and unbolt the plug off.

http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/images/sk-85663.jpg


the inlet for the breather should not be clogged. if it is, your axle could be leaking out from the axle seals (located at the end of each axle tube). be careful on cleaning the breather fitting, you do NOT want to push any of that dirt into the differential! Dont spray cleaners into the breather hole as the cleaner will more than likely end up inside the differential! i guess you just have to carefully vacuum the dirt out.

the reason i mentioned "dino" oil was because of the previous post that said not to use synthetics with RTV sealant....

so basically i use a 3/8" socket extension to unscrew that drain bolt? sucks i just broke mine last week tighening up my hub nut.....

i will make sure to be careful with the breather than.... there was definately a lot of dirt in/on it though. honestly, i couldn't even tell that there was a hole at first. i should have looked into moving these breather hoses before i took the truck swimming. my breather hose for the front diff has a plug on the end. is that normal? should the back one? thanks for the help, todd.

the reason i mentioned "dino" oil was because of the previous post that said not to use synthetics with RTV sealant....

so basically i use a 3/8" socket extension to unscrew that drain bolt? sucks i just broke mine last week tighening up my hub nut.....

i will make sure to be careful with the breather than.... there was definately a lot of dirt in/on it though. honestly, i couldn't even tell that there was a hole at first. i should have looked into moving these breather hoses before i took the truck swimming. my breather hose for the front diff has a plug on the end. is that normal? should the back one? thanks for the help, todd.

u gotta use a 1/2" on the hub nut! that nut is HUGE!!!!
re-read the end of my post though about the dirt, i added a few sentences about trying to catch the dirt from the inside of the differential (post #16).

as for the front differential, yes there is a plug on the end but its a breather plug so it does allow the axle to breath... good luck if youre going to replace the front differential breather.. that thing is a pain as the rack and pinion steering cooler is right there cutting your arm up. i eventually got my extension on but my arm looked like a dog had chewed on it.

by the way, i see you have a limited.. before you take ur X out on the trail again, id remove all of the limited's dress up parts like that bumper... im sure you can get some money for that as the limited's bumpers are totally different from the others in the 2nd generation. you can probably get a standard bumper (from an XLS or XLT) from a junk yard for cheap.

thanks for the hint....

for the hub nut, i didn't have a 1/2 ratchet, so i had to use a 1/2" socket, then an adapter to 3/8", then my 3/8" extender, then my ratchet...... of course the extender was what broke......

that thing is a pain as the rack and pinion steering cooler is right there cutting your arm up. i eventually got my extension on but my arm looked like a dog had chewed on it.

by the way, i see you have a limited.. before you take ur X out on the trail again, id remove all of the limited's dress up parts like that bumper... im sure you can get some money for that as the limited's bumpers are totally different from the others in the 2nd generation. you can probably get a standard bumper (from an XLS or XLT) from a junk yard for cheap.

for the front breather, is there any way to just extend the existing hose? maybe get a bigger hose, and wrap and seal it around the end of the existing line?

about my trim pieces, it's in the works. i have a tube bumper with winch thats ready to be put on, i just have to drive the 3 hours to go get it, and install it. same with the side steps, i have tube steps waiting for me as well. the problem is, they are already a little scratches, so whoever bought them would need to repaint, plus i had to trim them so i could fit the 33's. not sure anyone would want them still, but they will be available as soon as i have my new metal ones installed. good heads up though. todd.

so i just got back from the parts store.....

i looked at buying pure synthetic, but for $15 a quart, i honestly can't even afford it right now. my other options were: valvoline synthetic blend (80w90), valvoline regular oil(75w140), or Coastal brand synthetic (80w90)....

you said not to use dino oil, so i went with the synthetic blend. is the 80w90 going to be bad? should i have gone with the dino at 75w140? please help, i want to do this today, but don't want to use the wrong oil!!!!

you said not to use dino oil, so i went with the synthetic blend. is the 80w90 going to be bad? should i have gone with the dino at 75w140? please help, i want to do this today, but don't want to use the wrong oil!!!!

man i forget what its supposed to be.. but dino oil is fine.

well, i ended up getting an off-brand (walmart) synthetic that is the recommended 75w140. hopefully this will work out ok. on the bottle, however, it says "for limited slip, use for top-off only"..... would it still be ok in my LS as long as i add the friction modifier?

Sounds kind of like that IS the friction modifier. It says for top off only.

ok, so i have not been able to get the fill plug off. i have soaked it at least 3 times with PB blaster, and still not luck. It's a total PITA because it uses a 3/8" driver. I am using a 3" extension to make it easier, but it is not budging. i don't want to strip it, because then it will be 10x worse. Anyone have any tips? thanks, todd.

umm i think its more than one quart of gear oil.

I know it's more than a quart -- he said it was leaking and he asked what it'd take to refill. I didn't know -- so I said probably one quart to bring it back up to the full level. I didnt know he was taking the cover off and all that jazz.

-Drew

ok, so i have not been able to get the fill plug off. i have soaked it at least 3 times with PB blaster, and still not luck. It's a total PITA because it uses a 3/8" driver. I am using a 3" extension to make it easier, but it is not budging. i don't want to strip it, because then it will be 10x worse. Anyone have any tips? thanks, todd.


I gave you some tips on your other thread.

-Drew