I noticed several people having prolems with their A/C. My A/C is one of the ones that blows only on high and 60 degrees. I also noticed a ticking sound near the floorboard when I first start my car. Also does anyone's A/C turn off when the wipers are on intermittent? Any suggestions? Thanks.

My a/c only works on 60 degrees + MAX A/C has to be pushed in also :rolleyes:

Did you find any ideas on the problem? I heard that it could be some realy or resitor in the engine compartment. I jsut have no idea which one. Let me know if you find anything. Thanks

The resistor is bad. Most of the info on the boards points to the resistor being where the relay is, but that is not the case. The resistor is near the back of the engine bay on the passenger side under th blower motor. They get all corroded and die, replaced mine and my AC blows nice now.

Fan only blows on Hi = Blown Resistor

A/C only works on MAX = Broken Blend Door

Indeed, here's what happens to the resistors and the connector:

http://www.fordtruckworld.com/gallery/GIJoeCam/542998.jpg

http://www.fordtruckworld.com/gallery/GIJoeCam/542997.jpg

http://www.fordtruckworld.com/gallery/GIJoeCam/543003.jpg

http://www.fordtruckworld.com/gallery/GIJoeCam/543038.jpg

http://www.fordtruckworld.com/gallery/GIJoeCam/543039.jpg

http://www.fordtruckworld.com/gallery/GIJoeCam/543040.jpg

I thought I had pics of the repair, but I guess not. They're on the computer at home.

The repair costs $30 in parts. $15 for the resistor, $15 for the pig-tail. I soldered and shrink-tubed the connectors, then wrapped it with eiectrical tape. I injected some polyeurethane sealant into the outside of the connector where the wires go in to keep the elements out, and injected the connector side with dielectric grease to do the same. It's working great now!

-Joe

Wow that is messed up!!! The good thing is that it did not cost you too much. Did the Ford dealer had it in stock or did you have to wait? I would hate to tear my A/C apart then wait for the resistor. I guess I'm calling my dealer tomorrow to see what they got. Thanks for the pictures...good shot of the part numbers. I'll let you know what I find.

Most stealerships should have them in stock. They're a common failure item for fleets, so they're one of the few pig-tails Ford made available separately. Poor design if you ask me... they left all the connections completely exposed to the elements. That's just askin for trouble unless you live in the desert.

-Joe

my ac kicks on and off every few seconds. Do you think this might be my problem?

Doubt it. Short-cycling of the compressor is usually indicative of a low freon charge. You'll need to have the system leak-tested and re-charged to fix it.

-Joe

what part of the AC would be leaking?

Any part.

how can i find out what is leaking? im sorry i don't know much about trucks.

Check out the useful threads on AC. In order, leak points are usually... valves for recharging HI or LOW... Accumulator, garter joints with O rings and compressor seal. DIY dye checking is about your own option... shops have "sniffers.

Great pic posts Gi !

Okay I don't have the resistor in my truck...not at least I can see. I did find that I have one of those A/C controllers (same loacation as the resistor in other posts)...costs about 150 bucks from the Ford stealership. One of the good things is that I found an easier way to get to the controller. I went from underneath through the right wheel well. Removed 4 bolts and 4 screws...took about 5 minutes with an air ratchet and phillips screwdriver. A lot easier than removing the windshield washer and radiator resevoir. Just something I wanted to add in case anyone else was going to replace this part...and from what I can see, there will be others.

Ish

so is it true that if you have the eddie bauer or limited model explorer, then you do not have the resistors? and instead have the A/C controller? My blower does not work at all, at any setting. I took it to aamco today and they told me it was the resistor. however, i drive a "limited" and everything i'm reading says that the limiteds have the controller. and if i had resistors, and they went bad, shouldn't it still work on high? because mine does not work at all.

please help, because i'm supposed to take it back to aamco in the morning to have a new resistor put in, and don't wanna waste money. thanks, todd.

Yes, the blower should still work on high if the resistor is bad. If you have no speeds, I would suspect a bad motor, switch, or fuse.

On a 96, If you have the manual temperature controls, you'll have the resistors. If the blower does not work at all on any settings, you'll want to start with the basics:

Interior fuse panel #6 (7.5A)
Power Distribution Block #6 (50A)
Aux. relay block #2, blower motor high speed relay
Aux. relay block #2, blower motor relay

It's possible that it's the resistor pack too.... that'a VERY common problem. The connector under the hood is exposed to the elements, and the terminals corrode away. (I have pictures of that in the gallery linked in my signature)

Now, if you have the electronic automatic temperature controls (which I suspect was standard on a Limited) it's a whole different ball of wax.

Power Distribution Box, Fuse #6 (50A)
Interior fuse panel: #6 (7.5A), #18 (15A), and #9 (10A) (all feed the EATC module)
Check the blower motor relay in aux relay box #2.

The EATC uses a blower motor speed controller instead of a resistor pack. I'm not sure if it's located in the same position as the resistor pack would be or not. At any rate, if you have the EATC, Aamco will NOT be replacing the resistor pack, regardless of what they said.

Also, if you have the manual controls, and the resistors are bad, the motor will work if and only if the high speed relay is good and the motor itself is still good.

-Joe

The EATC uses a blower motor speed controller instead of a resistor pack. I'm not sure if it's located in the same position as the resistor pack would be or not. At any rate, if you have the EATC, Aamco will NOT be replacing the resistor pack, regardless of what they said.

Also, if you have the manual controls, and the resistors are bad, the motor will work if and only if the high speed relay is good and the motor itself is still good.

-Joe

i do have the automatic temperature control. When i took the truck back to aamco today, they realized that the resistor pack they had ordered is similar, but not identical to the part that i need. I'm assuming it resides in the same location. If this a/c controller is bad, would the blower motor not work at all then? aamco told me that they somehow bypassed this controller, and the motor was working. So i'm assuming I should just replace this part. agree?

The blower motor can readily be "started" and run in one speed by grounding one of the leads coming from it to the "AC speed controller".... in essence, that's all that the controller does plus "adding a thing or two" for speed control / adjustment... which may or may not be solid state (I doubt it). Anyways, that's probably how they tested to see if the motor works. It is likely that your "speed control" is done and needs replacement... I don't know if it can be "bench fixed".

Can anyone post a picture of the speed controller. I am having the same problems and I cannot locate it. EB 99 auto climate so I guess its the speed control not the resistor.

it is located underneath the blower motor itself. passenger side of the vehicle on the firewall. todd.

i do have the automatic temperature control. When i took the truck back to aamco today, they realized that the resistor pack they had ordered is similar, but not identical to the part that i need. I'm assuming it resides in the same location. If this a/c controller is bad, would the blower motor not work at all then? aamco told me that they somehow bypassed this controller, and the motor was working. So i'm assuming I should just replace this part. agree?


just wanted to update this: I replaced the a/c controller myself with a used junkyard replacement, and the a/c is working great now. found it easiest to get to this part from underneath, coming up through the wheel well. there are just 2 bolts that need unscrewed, and disconnect the electrical connection. very simple, used part cost me $25 shipped (ford wanted $150). Todd.

I have a 1998 Eddie Bower and have been reading many of the questions and anwers in the AC thread. Thanks to all involved. Very helpful info here.
My problem is that I do not have 12 volts to the AC clutch, nor do I have any voltage to either one of the "low coolant" switchs. I switched the relays in the fuse box with one another thinking that the AC relay was bad. They have 3 of same in the box, so I just switched one with another. Did not engage clutch. By the way the clutch does work when "jumped" to 12 volts off battery. Question? Where should I look next for power faiure to the AC clutch circuit? Is there a fuse that may be a problem? The blower works well, and I used the MAX AC setting which should have created power to engage the clutch. Any thoughts????

tsmith@paramit.com

Doubt it. Short-cycling of the compressor is usually indicative of a low freon charge. You'll need to have the system leak-tested and re-charged to fix it.

-Joe

I have a brand new AC unit and still get the short cycling-freon has been tested 2x and its fine and no leaks. Just had it checked again this morning and no issues they could see. I noticed that when in the car wash today (drive throughs) its starts shorting when either the AC or Heat is on and water is spraying in the front grill. Battery light comes on, engine whines. Shut the heat or ac off, immediately goes away. Im thinking I have a bad connection someplace....possibly the resistor?

My old AC system NEVER recycled as much as the new. Its like every 3 seconds at times.

You might try your WOT relay. I had a problem with frequent cycling on my wife's 97 and I bypassed the WOT relay. The relay was not bad, but it recieves a signal from the pcm when you are at wide open throttle to turn off compressor for more passing power. Apparently something went bad in the pcm to cause it to cycle on and off even when not wide open. If memory serves me, it was the front relay in the underhood fuse/relay box. I don't remember for sure, but I think if you make a short jumper wire and insert it between terminal 30 and 87a it will allow the compressor to run. The only thing you eliminate is the computer won't shut off the compressor at wide open throttle.