Well I have kinda finished what I have to offer on the A4LD.... the last of which are 10 years old.... so maybe I should move on....I do not have a 5R55 trannie to rebuild yet, but I do have a VB, so let me start there.... (4R70W is up next for you V-8 guys)...

I am going to start by a simple top disassembly, sharing my thoughts as an A4LD kinda guy.... first off, sign of the times.... instead of a hex bolt, we have a torx (t-30 to be exact)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5937.JPG

as an aside, I noticed the gasket came off easily.... a rarity in A4LD's!

same as in the A4LD there are 3 sep plate bolts... using a torx bit I broke em loose and removed them by hand....

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5936.JPG

underneath is a common looking VB pathway network. I want to offer a word of advice here. things STICK to the separator plate or gasket (pucks, valves..) be careful and watch for these hangers on (that fall off on disassembly)! When I pulled the sep plate, I found there were two "relief" valves, seemingly just as on the A4LD....

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5948.JPG

see the black one one the lower right ? Here is a better view, plus the bank of 4 solenoids (of 6) in this VB


http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5946.JPG


The other one was just a spring head.....no valve...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5939.JPG

Was it missing ? no it just fell out when I removed the separator plate (see why I warned ya?). I did find it odd that the one was black

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5938.JPG

and the other one (that fell out) was silver....

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5947.JPG

there is only ONE puck in this tran VB (A4LD has 2)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5942.JPG


This one also has a passageway (turns out it is the EPC) filter.... seen here

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5940.JPG

and removed here

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5941.JPG

also only 3 check balls...(some have 3, some 4, more later)

1st:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5945.JPG


2nd:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5944.JPG


3rd:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5943.JPG

and 2 empty holes

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5951.JPG

and

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5950.JPG

also a different style of retainer makes it appearance...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5952.JPG

Oh yes there are still some of the old style, but this is a new idea.

The manual valve is way different, no more Z link...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5949.JPG

and for tonight... here is the A4LD versus the 5R55... A4LD is the top one.... notice the sprouting of solenoids on the 5R55... the advent of computer controlled trannies! (even the A4 had SOME computer control - not like the 5R which is ALL computer control... and not a BAD thing necessarily).

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5954.JPG


Next up. We'll tear down the 5R VB and note the common features, as well as the new ones. Stay tuned.

[And for you 4R70W guys, same is coming up, with J Mods! - It will be at the end of the 4R70W Diary, already underway in the stickies at the top of this forum]

[postscript.... someone asked about computer control when things go bad. It is called limp mode. The computer will command "limp mode" when all hell breaks loose (in other words stuff just isn't seeming "right" to the computer)... It goes to a default program that maxes out pressures (to insure engagement) and uses gears designed to "get you home" As I understand it starts in 2rd and stays in 2nd or only shifts to 3rd. (Not sure about this though.) The shifts are horribly hard. Anyway there is so much to learn...

(But in all I think computers are where we are headed, as well as continuously variable transmissions... but I digress)]

Chris, create plenty of remarks and pictures about the "L" shaped retainers. They very easily fall out when the valve body is tipped over, and a detailed picture is needed to reinstall them. Subscribing, good night.

Don, will do. As I was thinking about it, I remembered a TSB that Eneurb was kind enough to post, about this VB, so I found it and am posting it here for reference.

Here it is... TSB 03-22-10...

FORD: 1995-2001 EXPLORER
1995-2002 RANGER
1996-1997 AEROSTAR
2000-2002 EXPLORER SPORT
2001-2002 EXPLORER SPORT TRAC
MERCURY: 1997-2001 MOUNTAINEER


This article supersedes TSB's 03-11-9, 02-13-8 and 02-08-2 to update the model coverage.

ISSUE:
Some vehicles built prior to 12/1/2001 may exhibit the following shift and engagement conditions:

No 2nd Gear
No 3rd Gear
No Engine Braking In Manual 1st.
Out of specification pressures controlled by the transmission main control valve body separator plate may be the cause.

ACTION:
Verify the condition, the main control valve body separator plate may need to be updated to the latest level. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

CAUTION: A NEW SEPARATOR 7Z490 MUST BE USED WHEN INSTALLING THE SPECIAL SERVICE KIT 7M203 OR ADDITIONAL TRANSMISSION DAMAGE MAY OCCUR. REFER TO THE PARTS APPLICATION CHART IN THIS ARTICLE FOR CORRECT SEPARATOR PLATE PART LISTING.



NOTE: THIS ARTICLE DOES NOT APPLY TO ANY OTHER CONDITIONS OR COMPONENTS THAT MAY CAUSE SIMILAR SYMPTOMS AND IS ONLY WRITTEN TO COVER THESE SPECIFIC CONDITIONS.



NOTE: AN IN-LINE SERVICE FILTER IS NOT REQUIRED TO BE ADDED OR REPLACED FOR THIS TSB.



Verify that one or more of the following conditions exist.
Low Line Pressure While In Drive At WOT
No 2nd And/Or No 3rd Gear
No Engine Braking In Manual 1st
DTC P0732, P0733 Or P1762
Install Kit (3L5Z-7M203-JA) to update the main control valve body assembly, refer to the installation procedures found in the kit.
Reinstall the main control by continuing to follow the installation steps listed in the Workshop Manual, in-vehicle service, main control valve body.
After completing the procedure, verify the condition has been corrected.
Clear all DTCs.

Part Application Chart
Vehicle Application Engineering Description Qty. New Service Part Use on Transmission Application 7000 -Reference Only-
95/96 Models ONLY
95/97 Models Separator Plate to Case Gasket 1 2L5Z-7C155-AA ALL
95/97 Models Separator Plate to Main Control Gasket 1 2L5Z-7D100-BA ALL
95/96 Models - ALL Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F5TZ-7A008-CA 95GT-AA/BA/CA/DA/EA/FA/ GA;96GT-BA/CADB/EB/FA/ GA/HA/KA/MA/NA
97 Models ONLY
97 2.3L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-AB 97GT-GC
97 3.0L OHV Ranger/Aerostar Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-AB 97GT-EC/FC/MC/NC/RE/SE
97 4.0L OHV Ranger/Aerostar Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-CB 97GT-KE/LE
97 4.0L OHV Explorer/Mountaineer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-DB 97GT-KF/LF
97 4.0L SOHC Explorer/Mountaineer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-EB 97GT-AE/BE
1998-2001 Models ONLY
98/01 2.5L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-DA 98GT-GA; XL5P-CA
98/00 3.0L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-EA 98GT-EB/FB; XL5P-AA/BA
98/00 4.0L - EI Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-FA 98GT-KB/LB; XL5P-DA/EA/FA
98/00 4.0L - EI Explorer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-GA 98GT-CB/DB; XL2P- EA/FA
98/00 4.0L - SOHC Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-HA 98GT-AA/BA; XL2P- CA/DA
2001-2002 Models ONLY
2001/2002 2.3L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-AA 1L5P-CA
2001/2002 3.0L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-BA 1L5P-AA/BA
2001/2002 4.0L-SOHC - ALL Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-CA 1L5P-DA/EA
ALL MODELS
1995-2002 ALL as Listed Above Valve Body Service Kit 1 3L5Z-7M203-JA ALL




PART NUMBER PART NAME
3L5Z-7M203-JA Valve Body Service Kit


OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:
NONE

SUPERSEDES:
03-11-9, 02-13-8, 02-8-2

WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Courtesy of Donnie Arbogast, here is a tabular listing of some of the above info.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/VBpartslist.gif
__________________

Someone also posted that Ford Parts Network (a site sponsor and good place to get FORD parts) had the kit for about $14 and the sep plate for a like amount. Didn't mention gaskets...

Chris, most people will look at that long list of parts, models etc, and frown, thinking a trans expert, or dealer, is needed for that.

I am very impressed with TransGo for building their valve body correction kit to address all of those issues, for all models of 5R55E. The cost for the TransGo kit is very little more than buying those factory kits and plate, and the improvements are greater. Regards,

:thumbsup:

subscribing

Don, I plan to buy both the Superior Kit AND the Transgo kit, and like I did for the A4LD note what they offer and what crossovers there are. I am not aware that the Transgo kit was duplicative of this TSB, but we'll check it out! We'll upgrade and mod this VB to the maximum practical extent.

Excellent thread Glacier, and one that has been needed for a long time. (The dreaded shifting 'flare' seems to be a very common problem in the 5R55E.

Someone also posted that Ford Parts Network (a site sponsor and good place to get FORD parts) had the kit for about $14 and the sep plate for a like amount. Didn't mention gaskets... The gaskets for the revised plate are bonded to the plate, so it can be said they are 'included'. :)

I did this Ford (revision) kit update a while back, along with adding the Superior shift kit, and I must say it was well worth it. After almost 20K miles, it still shifts great.
ROE

Thanks ROE... I always like collaborative threads.... My problem is this... I guess when I am done I will sell this VB... but won't know what plate to get until I know what year it is going into....what the buyer needs....but.... I'd really like to show the plate with the gaskets you describe and everything....

Don raised an excellent point about the old style (notice how I am now calling the A4LD style "old") L retainers. there are 6 of em, and he pointed out that they tend to fall out leaving you cllueless where they belong.... so I decided to illustrate them all, best I could... so I used BBQ skewers.... here is a view of 4 of the 6 on the left hand side

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5955.JPG

in more detail from bottom to top

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5957.JPG

and moving up (lower one here is top one above)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5959-med.JPG

on the right side there are two, use the accumulator puck (I now know this is a lube circuit puck) as a point of reference...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5960-med.JPG

Here is a better diagram of all of em'

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286diagram1A-med.jpg

SOLENOIDS

Solenoids..... 6 of em. 4 on one side and 2 on the other, all held in place by some reasonbly flimsy brackets... here the the ones on the 4 side.... a TCC on the far left (very similar to the A4LD setup, wait and see) 2 shift solenoids (of which there are 4 all the same and interchangeable 2 on this side and 2 on the other) and the big Daddy of them all, the EPC solenoid (far right).... capable of producing varying pressures by computer command! (oh baby). This is one that the experts all recommend you replace while you are in there, it is a fast wearing part due to what it does..

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5965-med.JPG


here they are all pulled out.... notice the built in screens on the TCC and EPC....

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5967-med.JPG

There is an updated bracket, BUY IT.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286diagram2A-med.jpg

and on the other side 2 more shift solenoids...like I said same exactly as the two in the middle of the other side...all interchangeable.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5963-med.JPG

and for what it is worth out of curiosity I turned it over and 2 of the "L" retainers fell out, At least I can read my own posts and figure out where they go ! Good call DON.

When I did my 99 5R55E, I called the TransGo Tech line, to ask about the compatibility of their kit, and the two Ford TSB parts that I was about to buy. They informed me that I didn't need any Ford TSB parts, that the TransGo kit covers all of the factory problems to date.

The TransGo Tech was the one who suggested that the EPC solenoid should be replaced. Thus I only bought the TransGo kit, gaskets, Sonnex boost valve, and an EPC solenoid. Let me know if you discover anything else. Good reading,

well, that's good to know. I still think I will get everything and do a side by side and see what shakes out. I find it interesting that there are so many different separator plates, and the fact that the gaskets are bonded to the plate is a noteworthy find, since torn gaskets was such a bugaboo.... Thanks for the info Don.

Yes Chris, my 99 separator plate had the most stuck gaskets I have ever removed. I spent over an hour removing them, and sanding. Regards,

Well here's what the non-separator plate FORD upgrade consists of... let's start with the 3 pages of instructions

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286upgrade1.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286upgrade3.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286upgrade2.jpg

We'll show this hands on as I get time...

Don, were you experiencing the shifting flare, to cause you to install the TransGo kit? That was my problem (a 1-2 flare), and I went in the other direction with the Ford blow-off kit plus adding the Superior shift kit.

I also installed a new EPC solenoid and bracket, since I didn't want to do the job twice. Because of all the new parts, I can't say for sure which one cured the flare, but I suspect it was the new blow-off valve plus the revised separator plate.....(?)

Does the TransGo kit also include a new separator plate, or give modifications to the old one?

Well I bought the Transgo AND Superior kits today and have been checking them over. Don is absolutely correct (his usual), the Transgo kit has it's own (and similar to that devised by FORD) fix for the EPC limit problem. They approach the blowoff solution differently and allow reuse of the old separator plate (use new gaskets). They change a couple springs in two valves, and have you drill the VB passage in one location. They give you a rivet to plug up a hole in the separator plate. Their usual excellent instructions accompany the kit.

Superior on the other hand, changes a number of things, only one of which is addressed by Transgo. The Superior kit has an electrical gizmo to splice into the EPC circuit wires .... I am wondering if this is their fix to the EPC overpressure issue? [Edit - NO it is designed to up the line pressures by 5 PSI.] Oh and...I am like a kid at Christmas, Superior has the DOUBLE LIP LOW/REVERSE SERVO SEAL !!! YEAY ! Superior also has you drill the sep plate in 2 places.

Both kits also address some rebuild items not part of the usual VB rebuild, more so with Superior than Transgo.

[Edit: if you go the route of doing the FORD TSB using the FORD supplied parts, it largely renders the Transgo kit useless to a great extent. I'll talk about this later]

Anyway I'll lay everything out tonight and share more info and we can puzzle this all out together. Ain't this fun?

I will say that in spite of Transgo's separator plate reuse, I am pondering if the FORD "bonded gasket" plate may not be a better idea... but we can debate that later.

Each kit was between $30 and $40. The Transgo was $32.33 and the Superior was $38.42 The Sonnax Boost Valve upgrade for this one was $36.22. I do not have a price on the upgrade bracket, nor have I priced the replacement EPC solenoid, but am prepared for something pricey. [Edit - Try $112, ouch]

Ok I did learn a few things. The two different colored "relief valves" ? The black one is the same as on the A4LD, TCC relief. The silver one was EPC limiter... a new function and one which both FORD and TRANSGO fix (and remove the silver valve and spring) the reddish "puck" is extension case lube circuit - not present in all of these but was in this one. Transgo gives you a replacement of aluminum, as they do for all the fibre pucks in their kits. Transgo is a quality outfit, and I will point out other reasons for my opinion later. [I know Don agrees].

Some of the VB's were 4 check ball and some 3... there's a way to tell, I'll share it with you. Mine was 3. I'll be taking pics of the kit contents to share later....

stay tuned, film at 11.

The Superior kit has an electrical gizmo to splice into the EPC circuit wires .... I am wondering if this is their fix to the EPC overpressure issue? Glacier, I didn't install this part, which Superior calls a "pressure riser". I figured it must be either a resistor or capacitor, but since the installation polarity isn't an issue, it must be a resistor. The ceramic housing also points to it being a resistor.

I figured that I could always install it later, if need be. Since the trans shifts fine, and the flare is cured, the pressure riser apparently wasn't necessary in my case.

If it indeed is the Superior fix for EPC overpressure, then the Ford revised blow-off valve I installed might have done the same thing......?

Yes, I took one look at it and figured the overpressure was being caused by some electrical issue and this was a ballast resistor to splice in to moderate that (though if it were just an electrical spike causing it, that might have suggested a capacitor instead of a resistor,) but like you I looked at the ceramic and said - "resistor", as you will see, it had a resistance of 75 ohms <g>. Thinking out loud.... would it hurt to add it and do both ? Ideas and thoughts solicited.

ok, gonna move to a new post and start in with the FORD upgrade, the Transgo kit and then the Superior kit and end with the Sonnax Boost Valve. Should be an interesting evening of pix.

(haveta upload pix on a dial up, so bear with me)

OK.... the FORD idea was to eliminate the previous relief valve for the EPC (they pulled the spring and valve head that was existing and gave you a new plate without any hole where those used to exist) and add a "blowoff" valve elsewhere.... (all in all not a bad fix).... Here is what they give you for hardware (read their 3 page instructions above, if ya got good eyes, also find the "dimple" in this valve)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5968-med.JPG


Here is a closeup of the backside of the valve, notice the screen and under it the checkball, this is essentially a pressure controlled checkball blowoff valve....

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5969-med.JPG


Here is the Transgo idea, very similar.... you may notice the paper clip and laugh, ME I love these guys. They provide everything, even the "rat's ass" tools ya might need.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5970-med.JPG


A closeup of their valve and checkball nested in it.... no offense, my choice is FORD's offerring on this....(still I love these guys).

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5971-med.JPG

Ok so much for this comparison, in the next post I will show the rest of the Transgo kit....

Chris, this 5R55E kit was the first that I have done. I have leaned towards the TransGo because of their past history, and my experience with the AOD's. I am always open to new ideas. The 5R55E isn't brand new anymore, but there may yet be some things to discover by the aftermarket, upgrades, etc.

I am most interested in learning of any internal improvements that can be made. As you know, I will eventually get my hands on a 2002+ model 5R55E. I will go through it, replacing frictions/steels, seals, and any upgrades. Try to have fun with it, and we will enjoy along with you, night.

REST OF TRANSGO KIT

Ok here's what else Transgo has....

First off some stuff for the center support, which won't concern us in this thread, but I do find it curious that although the center support is NOT the focus of a lot of failures as I best know it, it continually gets attention....clearly a problem generating spot....

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5972-med.JPG

Then there a few springs to replace.... a plug and a drill bit for the VB

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5973-med.JPG

finally there is the puck, the rivet I spoke of and an insert to restrict flow to the intermediate band area...that rivet looks big in this pic but it is TINY !!!

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5974-med.JPG

SUPERIOR KIT

Here is what you get when you open it up

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5975-med.JPG

In the first packet we have their "pressure riser" (which apparently reduces the electrical voltage to the EPC and is how they reduce over pressure and they have some Sep plate mods for you to do) a replacement spool, and a couple of plugs. One of their mods is to eliminate the temperature controller which does not allow cooler flow until the trannie is warmed up. I need to read up more and understand more why this is a good/bad thing. Enough chat, here is this bunch of hardware

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5976-med.JPG

there are some springs and drill bits.... BIG springs are not Valve body related (servo stuff) ... drill bits are for VB borings

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5979-med.JPG

And then we have the holy grail, a double lip seal for the low reverse servo !

straight on, not much

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5977-med.JPG

but on edge?

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5978-med.JPG

I was curious about the "pressure riser" and was certain it was like a ballast resistor.... not a capacitor. So I checked it....polarity ? no... and sure enough, a resistor, 75 ohms... probably 10 watts is my guess. I'll leave it to the electronics wizards to explain how it could affect the voltage (which makes the EPC vary pressure - sounds complicated but it's not really, except for how it does it)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5980-med.JPG

I have left out the bag of clutch springs... it is the same as the A4LD... you replace a huge batch of springs with a huger batch for more return pressure. NOT a VB issue at all. I already have a couple bags of em. Anyone need some ?

Good thread!

If i recall correctly, the 5r55e kits will all work in my 4r44e right? I think i'm going to use all these mods so hopefully my tranny wont delay when i put it in drive or reverse, and i REALLY hope it firms/quickens the shifts

Glacier, take a look under your username on the left... I hope you like your title :D

Rick,

I am laughing....and smiling. (Thank you for the kind words and name) I do not consider myself a guru at all... but just someone who really loves these beasts and wants folks to keep em running, and enjoys learning and helping. Your site is a great forum for all that. Thanks for letting me do that here.

Chris

ps. I find it interesting and humorous that some poeple recognize the surgical drapes in the background of my pics, one even calls me Dr......which I am NOT. I have a friend who works in a hospital and gets me as many of these as I want.... they make great covers for things and great clean places to work on car parts! And throw away. Glad you didn't call me Dr. Tranny!

and inh, yes.... I will try and post a separate thread of differences but overall... YES ! SAME SAME.... use the same kits etc.

SONNAX BOOST VALVE

This is probably less important here than in the A4LD.... no O-rings and all that... but yet I just think it is a good precaution. It costs about $35 and consists of a new sleeve and valve...we can discuss it more later, but here it is...for now...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5981-med.JPG

I'd be really happy if you could post up a what-you-bought-for-how-much-and-where and what the overall improvements were when you are done so i can know what to expect :D My tranny was just rebuilt, but i think these mods couldhelpmake it better

Well so far the prices are all from Axiom, formerly called Aceomatic.... they have a website.... (and a local store where I know them by name). I do not have a 5R55 vehicle so this valve body will be for sale, and we will have to ask him or her how it works.

try www.Aceomatic.com

Ah thank you! I'll have to get these things.. I dont suppose this valve body would bolt up to mine would it? People say my 4r44e is the same as a 5r55e etc etc so I'm kind of confused. If it would i would really like to buy it from ya. Also, you wouldnt happen to know what part in the tranny controls the firmness of the shifts would you? B&M says there are differences between even the same model tranny, and unfortunatly i have one that wont work with thier electronic shift improver.

I know the separator plates were different for the 4R55 and 5R55, I do not know whether they used the same valve body. I'd be reluctant to say they did.

Glacier: I still have a running search for the book. No hits yet (none). :( Let me know if you spot one, please?

Ah ... refresh me, which book is that ? (sorry getting old here)

The factory ford book on the 5R55E (not ATSG). You told me which one to look for in another thread. I have had an ebay search for 5R55* going for a month or longer.

Ah... no haven't seen one either... keep looking... one will show up..

For my application 97 4x4 SOHC, the new seperator plate did not have bonded gaskets and did not come with any gaskets. I questioned the Ford dealer (sponsor) and he checked everything and said that it was supposed to be that way. I checked the plate and everythiing matched so I had to pick up a couple of gaskets. I guess at some year break they started using the bonded gaskets.

Greg, it's my understanding that the separator plate with the bonded gaskets is only used with the revised blow-off valve kit. Ford warns that the revised plate MUST be used with the revised valve kit. There are several modifications that have to be made when using the 'new' separator plate, as I'm sure Chris will document with pictures.


If the plate you picked up matches up with your old plate, then it's not the 'revised' plate that goes with the valve kit. There are at least a couple of differences in hole placements and sizing between the two, in addition to the bonded gaskets.

Yes my "new" plate had the different holes including the #50 hole being deleted. And I did install it with the revised blow-off kit. I contacted the dealer and he checked several different things and said that particular plate did not have the bonded gaskets. The package it came in was unopened. So for whatever reason, it was like that. And with so many different ones per the bulletin I wouldnt bet that they would all have bonded gaskets.

Greg, that's interesting to note. Apparently not all 5R55E's are created equal, then.....? Don't know why Ford didn't bond gaskets to all the plates; it seems like a good idea. It lessens problems in alignment when installing the plate, and would probably make them harder to blow out, as is common in some of these transmissions.

So yours is shifting fine, except for the intermittant reverse banging? I'd be temped to pour a bottle of Lubegard Red in it, and see if that helps. Something that intermittant certainly seems like a 'sticking' problem somewhere......?

Thank you guys for sharing what your experiences have been. Mind you I have *never* rebuilt a 5R55E trannie (though it is very close, VERY close to the A4LD - more bearings and some other upgrades mainly) and I have *never* before rebuilt a 5R55E valve body...though numerous A4LD's... so I am just doing my homework and sharing what I find here. Others who have experiences are invited to join in, a good collaborative thread is valuable. We can share and learn from one another.

I'm with ROE in being a little surprised that FORD didn't use bonded gaskets on all of the upgraded separator plates, but as I think about it I am thinking it was the 98's or newer that were exhibiting the majority of the gasket blowout problems (don't ask me why, it just sticks from somewhere...) so maybe they only did it for the later years - I dunno. I have wondered about the prospect of using spray contact cement on a gasket... aligning it carefully on the VB, pulling it off to allow it to cure then putting in some guide screws (yeah I will be making some of those and show it in the thread) and cementing your own.... seems like overkill... but if it helps.... Just a random thought. Comments ?

Anyway 'Greg S' and 'Runnin on Empty', and Don thanks for your input, keep jumping in if you have anything to add or see something I miss or should cover more thoroughly or clearly. 'Greg S' - PM me on the manual please.

btw. I am going to sell the old Sep plate, modified with the Transgo rivet in hole 50 and with the transgo popoff valve if anyone is interested and just wants to do THAT mod only. PM me.

Chris, have you noticed that most valve body kit instructions make mention of two guide holes for the plate, gaskets, and valve body. Usually there are two holes which should have bolts used with shanks(no threads) to best align the gaskets. That has almost always been the case with the kits that I have installed. I have only helped with one Superior AODE kit, I cannot remember if it mentioned special guide holes.

Those guide holes(when referred to) help greatly to assure that the gaskets are properly aligned. Regards,

Don I notice the factory manuals prefer the use of guide pins in every case, Can't say the same has been true for correction kits. When you have a valve body right side up on a bench it's pretty easy to be careful and line things up to put the sep plate on the valve body, and even on a bench the valve body on the transmission main body. But, if you were on your back under the vehicle, or the vehicle was on a hoist, it might be more difficult to line up the 2nd gasket between the VB and the main body, making pins more than helpful. Given the problems with the 5R55 gaskets, I think making some and using them (on a non-bonded sep plate) is good insurance. Bonded sep plate.... no biggie.

[Edit] Member Donnie Arbogast was kind enough to upload some diagrams of the VB with parts lists... I'm posting these here as a result of his courtesy, and we owe him a big thanks!

FIRST, THE VB Diagram for the 5R55E

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/5r55VB.gif

Next the listings for the diagram parts numbering system

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/medium/5r55partslist.gif
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/5r55partslist2.gif

The superior kit mentioned using a little vaseline on the gaskest and plates to keep them from moving around which I did. I worked well, and and nothing shifted.

Vaseline is used all throughout a transmission to hold parts in place. I bought a BIG jar!

Ok, let's look at the FORD TSB Overpressure fix next. I've shown pictures of the little valve they supply. Here's generally what this is all about: You remove what now is a plug in the end of a bore, and replace it with that valve. You remove the EPC relief valve and spring, and the EPC limit filter (the little square thing I showed you in the VB in an early post in this thread). You changeover to a NEW separator plate, and where there USED to be a EPC limit valve hole, it's gone, now solid. (The same thing Transgo accomplishes with a rivet).

So first off, we locate the correct bore, on the end between the manual valve and the Boost Valve...the left most silver plug you see here. (notice that the retainer for the Boost Valve is one of the "H" variety... I wonder why... those are generally used when there is a spring behind them....) anyway, I digress....left most in this pic is our bore

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5985-med.JPG

There is one of the new style clip retainers behind it. I use forceps to remove it, most anything will do...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5986-med.JPG

and here it is out

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5987-med.JPG

Now the trick is to remove the plug. I used a small screw driver and gently pushed the innards behind the plug in an outward direction until I ran out of an ability to find a place to push (you'll understand what I mean when you do this).. but by then the end was sitting proud of the Valve body...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5988-med.JPG

Here is a better picture of the plug "sitting proud" of the body

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5989-med.JPG

I was able to grasp it in the forceps and move it out more, and then once again a chance to use the screwdriver to pry opened up... soon I was able to grasp it with my fingers to remove it

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5990-med.JPG

(I know, most photographed fingers on the net.... eat yer hearts out)

[I am going to stop a minute and explain that I am trying to do overlapping mods in the VB. Rather than mix em up, I will do each one as it was intended, alone. What this means, is that I may be back into the same bore to add something from another kit later. You may ask why not do it all while you are there, and the answer is, so that people only wanting to do one, do not get confused.]

Here is the FORD replacement valve, and retainer sitting next to the plug we just removed and it's retainer clip

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5991-med.JPG

and another view

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5992.JPG

The first step is to replace the plug with this valve. Some time ago I bought some teflon based aerosol "Valve Body Lubricant" at the Aceomatic (Now Axiom) store here in Sacramento (great folks)... and I lube anything and everything I put into a VB, so I lubed it and installed it...first gently into the bore rotating it as I go... this is a CLOSE fit, so be gentle and use your time so you do not cock it in the bore and have to wrestle with it..

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5994-med.JPG

Once you have it aligned nicely with the bore, longitudinally, so it slides in more easily and is not cocked and moving in, slide it all the way in, flush

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5996-med.JPG

clip in the new retainer and push it down all the way

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN59951.JPG

Ok the hardest part is done. Next remove the spring and EPC relief valve nearest the end of the VB you are working on... you know the silver one I dropped when I took the separator plate off. Here is the hole left when you remove them..

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5997-med.JPG

and then may as well remove the screen... here is where IT was..

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5998-med.JPG

With the addition of the proper separator plate for your application, you are done with the FORD mod. Not too bad.

Lets go ahead as long as we are here and put in the SONNAX boost valve. While I was a big proponent of the Sonnax Boost valve in the A4LD, whether or not it's as big an improvement here is questionable in my mind. No O-rings for one thing. But in the interest of science I bought it and here it is...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5981-med.JPG

Here it is beside the old stock boost valve (removal is this one is quite easy)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN5983-med.JPG

Notice the extra ring and hole... anyway, lubricate the new one, put it togther, relube the outside and slide it into the bore against the springs inside, and add the H retainer, and this Mod is done!

Now I am going to install the Superior kit. Both Superior and Transgo are excellent companies and put out great kits... I flipped a coin and decided to do the Superior first, and for no other reason. I didn't think they overlapped that much ...but I may have been wrong on that... but anyway, let's start with the Superior kit.

I previously showed you the contents.... let's do the VB portion..what I mentioned earlier about being back in the same bore again after doing one MOD will become apparent...ok... where do we start ? Yep, (lol) right back where we just did the FORD EPC limit mod! Superior has a new spool, and they give you a replacement spring, but in their instructions they say that for HD use they recommend you reinstall the FORD factory spring (much heftier spring I might mention) so... with that in mind, I removed the JUST installed FORD blowoff valve, and removed the old spool.... here are the bore contents and the 2 spools side by side:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6002-med.JPG

This one was really easy. I'll skip the reassembly, it is pretty rote.

Next up? Uh huh... the Boost Valve Bore. (yeah I know, we were JUST there too!) Sonnax gives us a different spring to use. They color it green. Here are the appropriate contents. I did not take this completely apart, but if you do, go back and read the A4LD VB Diary about the proper position for the retainer under these springs. it is the same design!

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6001-med.JPG

The inner spring is reused. Reassemble, and another easy one is done.

The next one is also very easy, it is the bore right next to the Boost valve on the other side.... the "forward engagement control valve". It gets a new (white) spring... here is the old versus the new side by side...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6003-med.JPG

replace, reassemble and reinstall. easy.

The next MOD in the Superior series I have not done yet, and will save and let whoever wants to buy this VB decide if they want it or not. Ya see, FORD in the 5R55 has a thermostatic control that doesn't let the transmission oil cooler start doing it's job until the fluid has warmed up.

Interesting concept. Might be great in Fairbanks.... maybe unnecessary in Miami. Superior has a piece you add to defeat this. I am skipping it for now.

The last in body MOD from Superior has us replace an mid bore plug

Superior says:

STEP 4 Replace the coast clutch retaining plug with the one supplied.

Note: The OE. Plug may be very hard to remove. [no shjt Sherlock]. We are replacing this plug because it makes a lot of metal [aha!] The best procedure for removing the plug is to use a stiff piece of wire through the slot on the pan side of the valve body. Go through the spring end and push the valve outward. If you are unable to get the plug out, at least clean this area of the valve body very thoroughly.


They are right about the solution being in the back (pan) side... but my little screwdrivers did the trick.... no wire needed...

Here it is apart

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6005-med.JPG

The outer spool has nested springs... like so

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6006-med.JPG

I should reverse that so as to not confuse anyone.... left to right.

This little plug is a bear to get back in..... because it fits so tightly and has to align just so... be careful, take your time, it will go... do not force it and get it stuck in a cocked position. Oh and, it goes in small end first. Be careful to capture it with the L retainer at the correct point.

Of the Superior mods, this was the most difficult.

Superior also has you drill the separator plate, and add their electronic "pressure riser", but for "in the guts" this is it.

[LATE BREAKING NEWS - 9/23/05] Sonnax has come out with 2 more mods for the 5R55E Valve body. I'll research them and if able purchase them and show their installation here.

Let's take a break, and for fun check the resistance of the solenoids...

First off the 2 shift solenoids from the bank of 4 solenoids...first one

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6009-med.JPG

27 ohms

then the other

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6008-med.JPG

also 27 ohms...

Now the EPC

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6010-med.JPG

Hmmm 5 ohms... and lastly, the TCC (note the tab on it)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6012-med.JPG

11 ohms.

here are two more shift solenoids left to test, but I think you get idea. (actually the two left are the same solenoid, but one is used as the coast clutch solenoid (CCS).

From the manual:

resistance: SSA,SSB,SSC,CSS 22-48 ohms
EPC 3.1-5.7 ohms
TCC 8.9-16 ohms

So we are in spec. However, all the best advice says if there are significant miles on your EPC, REPLACE IT. I'll price this option out for you.

We are also going to replace the bracket, even though I found no incipient cracks.

The EPC solenoid is high dollar, I paid just over $100 for mine from Ford. The trans shop price was not really any better, so I chose the Ford part. I like to use Ford parts if possible. Regards,

Thanks Don, I expected something like that.

[Edit: I found that Torrie's price at Ford Parts Network was less than my price from the trans specialty shop, so like DON, bought mine there - OEM.]

Now for the interesting news. Other than the metal extension housing puck, having done what we did with the Superior kit more or less makes the Transgo kit duplicative, or unuseable/unnecessary!

Let me try and explain. Remember the white spring in the Forward Engagement Control Valve bore next to the Boost valve Superior gave us? Transgo gives us the same thing. So duplicative. Remember the bore we put the FORD popoff valve in? and then the Superior Spool? Transgo gives us new springs for the stock valve (won't work with the Superior spool) and a new end plug ...we need to use the FORD popoff there, So that one isn't useable.

Lastly they give us their own version of the popoff valve, but theirs goes into a different bore. Not a lot of sense having two of them, it would seem to me. I'm having kind of the same thoughts about the Superior "Pressure riser".

Now mind you this is not a slam on Transgo at all. You COULD just buy their kit and save the trouble of going the FORD route at all.

So, all I am going to use from the Transgo kit is the aluminum puck for the extension housing lubrication circuit. I need to investigate why they want me to drill the VB, is it to energize their overpressure relief circuit? In which case I do not need to.

So, with all that said... anyone want to get a great deal on a NEW Transgo kit? I have a gasket set to go along with it.

Well, with the exception of making decisions regarding a) drilling my as yet not purchased Sep plate according to Superior's suggestions, and b)drilling the vb according to Transgo's and then letting someone decide if they want a cooler thermostat, I am finished.

CONCERNS and some thoughts (more to be added I am sure)


I have noticed something that is bothering me. As you recall there were 3 check balls? Well all my info suggests that if one of the checkball locaions (which was vacant in our VB) has 2 holes in the separator plate over it, then it needed a checkball. Our sep plate has two (2) holes over a location that was empty. Hmmm.

I'll wait til I see what the new FORD separator plate has, and act accordingly. I bet it also has 2.

Odds and Ends: Valve body to case torque spec is 72-92 INCH pounds. Do it evenly and in maybe 3 or 4 passes. It is important for ALL VB's but especially so for these. No fudging with a foot lb torque wrench!

Invite comments, ideas suggestions and questions.

Take your time with the comparisons. I would like to know what the best route is. I will definately work on more 5R's in the future. I obviously went with what I am familier with, a known quantity. What is the best, is my goal of course.

There was a member here who wanted to sell a 5R55E recently, but it was too much. Hopefully you will come across one sometime soon. Also let me know if you discover any 5R55E specialists, who might know the details that I will need to make my AWD project happen. Regards,

EXCELLENT pics and writeup, Mr Glacier. The mods you've documented should eliminate the infamous 'shifting flare' that these trans are plagued with.

I installed the Ford kit along with the Superior kit several months ago with excellent results; no more 1-2 shift flare, slightly firmer shifts, and an improved rpm spread between gears (This was my first impression on the test drive, that the spacing between shifts was more uniform than before).

I too thought the Superior "Pressure Riser" wasn't necessary with the Ford revised blow-off valve, so I omitted it.

I did use the thermostat bypass spool, and haven't noticed any ill effects from doing so. The trans shifts as well when cool as when warm, although the coldest weather it's been driven in so far was about 30*F.

Sorry I can't add anything as to the check balls, Glacier. I was in a hurry to get it back together, and didn't pay attention to the matching holes in the separator plate.

One suggestion I might add for anyone doing this work, is to trace out the separator plate on a cardboard box, and punch holes for the bolt locations. Then during disassembly, place the bolts in the appropriate holes (just like we used to do with pushrods). Since the bolts are of different lengths, this will make reassembly much quicker.

Also confirm that the gear selector spool is in place when mating the VB back up to the trans. I slipped up on this, and had to remove the VB again to fix it. Luckily I caught it before the pan was on and fluid was added......

This is not a hard project at all, you simply have to pay attention and work as cleanly as possible. So far, my trans has shifted perfectly with absolutely no flares, and I'm happy with the Ford/Superior kit combo. Oh yes, I did add a bottle of Lubegard Red as insurance......

Once again, we should all thank Chris for going to all this time and trouble to document these mods (with excellent pictures) :thumbsup: .

thank you Glacier once again thank you. This now is something i can do instead of paying for. Couple quick questions if you dont mind:

did you pick up the ford kit at a ford dealership or got a part number on it?

do you recommend the ATSG manual as a helper for this or another book (online guides like yours are awsome for the unanswered questons) ?

any special tools required? i have dental picks and small piers i know i need to grab an inch pound torque wrench for this

also you want to decode this from me? i emailed Sonnax about upgrades to make it bulletproof and this was the response:

Hello John
Sorry for the delay in responding, I have been out of the office.
Valve bodies for that unit are prone to quite a few problesm.
Most common would be soft shifts:
37947-01K oem ratio boost valve or 37947-03K increased ratio boost vavle
There also a long list of new items soon to be released.
All of these will require tooling which would be suitable for a shop to purchase for repeat use but no for a one-off job 37947-05K Pressure regulator sleeve kit 37947-07K TCC Modulator valve sleeve kit 37947-09K TCC Regulator Sleeve kit 37947-11K Engagement control kit 37947-33K Coast clutch valve kit.

I am asssuming you are not in the tranny business so I don't think these parts would be the way for you to go. I point them out just so you realize the many problems areas within this valve body. If you have high milage or multiple complaints with your unit, you might want to consider buying a remanufactured valve body from one of the companies who specialize in rebuilding them.
Valve Body Xpress
Ream Man Valve Bodies
Hard Parts for Transmissions.

Information on current parts and soon on the new parts mentioned can be found on our web, if you have not already been ther. www.sonnax.com

Frank Biolsi
Sonnax
Technical Support

with this i assume there is more room for upgrades oh and it only took 2 days for a response back which is good once again very very nice write up i look forward to more thaat you do.

Zhanx - my update kit was in a rebuild kit I purchased - FORD factory kit. But the part number is listed in the TSB I set out in the thread. I suggest you contact Torrie at Ford Parts Network (a site sponsor with links) for pricing and availability on the upgrade and the required separator plate to go along with it, YOU NEED BOTH !!!!! READ the TSB carefully.

(Ought to be about $30 the pair. Make sure you get the right gaskets, if your plate is not a bonded plate.)

ok questions on the part numbers. i delete the parts of the TSB thhat were not need for this :



FORD: 1995-2001 EXPLORER

CAUTION: A NEW SEPARATOR 7Z490 MUST BE USED WHEN INSTALLING THE SPECIAL SERVICE KIT 7M203 OR ADDITIONAL TRANSMISSION DAMAGE MAY OCCUR. REFER TO THE PARTS APPLICATION CHART IN THIS ARTICLE FOR CORRECT SEPARATOR PLATE PART LISTING.

Part Application Chart
Vehicle Application Engineering Description Qty. New Service Part Use on Transmission Application 7000 -Reference Only-

98/00 4.0L - EI Explorer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-GA 98GT-CB/DB; XL2P- EA/FA
ALL MODELS
1995-2002 ALL as Listed Above Valve Body Service Kit 1 3L5Z-7M203-JA ALL

PART NUMBER PART NAME
3L5Z-7M203-JA Valve Body Service Kit


i know i need the following :
3L5Z-7M203-JA Valve Body Service Kit
1L5Z-7Z490-GA Valve Body Separator
which from following along all i should need to fix unless i go wth upgrades. now the question what does the last part 98GT-CB/DB; XL2P- EA/FA stand for or is it just extra ford stuff no need to worry, just order the rebuild kit and the separator plat and call it good

edit: fyi on the ford part network you can search by the oem part numbers and the kits come right up at a price cheaper than the local dealer

[The FORD Parts Network is OEM parts at better than dealer prices. I keep telling everyone to check there! Thanks for the heads up.]

Now as for the rest of your Q, dang, I'm not sure. Wish Eneurb was around to decipher.

Or, you can just buy the transgo kit from me "with gaskets" <g>

pm me a price shipped and wether or not you do pay pal. its the same as the ford kit but i just need the separator plate right? plus a shift too right?

The Transgo IS the shift kit, just also happens to take care of the TSB. And it modifies the VB. So all you need in addition is gaskets. It's what Don used and he was satisfied with it. If you are interrested PM me... might wanna re-read his thoughts on his installation in this thread near the beginning.

ok i am sending you the pm sorry it took so long been busy, btw i installed my transmission remote filter today.. i know i know just because i got it in the mail today doesnt mean i had to put it on. i didn't even use the filter that came with it..but a Fram on it.. i know how much you like fram Glacier991. Anyways.. i installed the filter with a cast on my left hand that sucks and i am left handed.. so for the newbies you know its easy to do.. now just need to get my fan power remot cooler and one of the oil filter cooler fin thingys for the filter and i should never have hight trany temps.. and after this kit is install i should be good for my s/c

ok i cant pm you glacier your box is full so i'll from your email

fixed that sorry. I get a LOT of PM's... I try and keep it below 100 but not always easy

so i order those 2 part numbers from ford, install, and problem solved? does it come with the instructions or should i just follow the walkthrough?

I don't think I'd say it's quite that cut and dried. It may fix whatever problem you have, then again might not. While i think most follks CAN do this, it's not like changing your oil or a spark plug. I guess your Q sounds rather cavilier about it. The thread is rather complete. Your answer lies somewhere within it.

hey try number two and the inbox is full pm me you email and i'll send the stuff that way.. unless you just want me to grab the ford kits... cause i want to do this over laborday weekend

i think i may have ordered a wrong part. i looked at the list a few times but think i still screwd up. i have a '99 eddie bauer withthe 4.0 sohc, this is what i ordered:
Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-GA (think i really needed this one: 98/00 4.0L - SOHC Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-HA )
Valve Body Service Kit 1 3L5Z-7M203-JA
and i forgot to order the new revised bracket. but am doing so in a few mins. i just want to mae sure i ordered the right ones.

glacier count me out on the parts.. long story but now i have to wait awhile on them.. i need a shift kit for the wife...

they make em for WIMMEN too ????

not to be a pain in the a55, but does anyone happen to know where i can reference a part number for a 99 5r55e valve body? there is a guy on ebay selling "tested" valve bodies, and before i hassle him for one i would like to get a part number to ensure i get the right one. i'd like to just update a valve body then swap it out. minimum down time.

also, this sonnax boost valve mod, is that supposed to be used by itself, or can it be used in conjunction with the ford TSB kit? i looked it up and it seems to be meant to do the same thing all the other kits are for, if it is installed with one of the other kits wouldnt that over presssure and cause a problem? i just want to know before i make a horrid mistake. sorry if i bother you guys.

Interesting... I wonder if there is a similar procedure for the 5R55W?

I've done the Jerry-mod on the 4R70W which is simlar to this procedure and makes a huge improvement on the 4R70W.

My 5R55W in the 02 has the infamous haunting shifts....

Doubt. You will notice in the Diary above I did the Sonnax boost valve AND the FORD upgrade. Wholly different things. And none of the kits addresses the Boost Valve. So it's a stand alone.

i did the read the diary, its really cool, and helped out alot, i read the ford mod a few times and cant belive how simple it seems, also that you installed the sonnax immeadiatly following the ford procedure. i searched for the sonnax on yahoo, and the sonnax page for the 5r55e states its to correct the same probblem that the other kits are for, the soft/delayed shifts and no manual 1st braking. so you are saying that i can do both and no harm should come to my tranny?

That is exactly what I am saying.

thanks, i was just trying to get the definitave. like i said, i searched for it on yahoo, and the page stated it was a "cure" for the same shift problems. and i know from experiance elswhere than you can over correct things and make it worse. thanks for the help, with your write up i'm confident that i'll be able to complete this operation succesfully, never been past the filter before.

Chris, I wanted to buy the Ford service valve body that was listed on e-Bay, but I got busy...is your valve body still available for sale?


Would it cost more because it's famous? ;)

of course itd cost more, its got 'bling bling' !!!!!

One more ? and i'll quit bugging ya guys. you say its a good idea to replace the epc solinoid while im in there, can i have a part number for the EPC solenoid so i can get one from the parts network?

DI, it's EPC (electronic pressure control) solenoid number XL2Z7G383AA. The cost is about $112 plus shipping. Good luck.

zippee it is not famous until it is installed and fixes everything. It's yours if you want it.

I'd like to thank the fine guru's on this forum the helpfull insight and wealth of information. i accomplished the ford tsb update, and installed the hard parts from a superior kit, over labor day as well as a sonnax boost valve. all went off without incident, and the X is driving like it should. no codes tripped, and no issues. thanx guys!

Hey DI ! Great. Thanks for posting feedback. It will give others the confidence to undertake repairs on their own!

Yeah, congrats on fixing it, DI. :thumbsup: Real world results are what counts.

This thread of Glaciers should be invaluable to many, since the 5R55E seems to be plagued with shifting flares as time goes by.....

I will add a section to this thread (or posts to it somewhere anyway) on the various solenoids so people know which one is which. Otherwise it's pretty well done, but curiously, not in the Useful Threads forum <hint>. I suggested it but to no avail. Others may want to if you think it is helpful. Otherwise it will sink into the ooze of more threads on top of it.

[EDIT]

Ok here are the solenoids in the valve body - on one side there are 4 in a bank.... one of which (TCC) is held down by a bolt, the rest are held solely by the bracket.... so in order.... here we go.... EPC

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6161.JPG

next to it is the SSB or Shift Solenoid 2

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6162.JPG

next to that is the CCS or SSD or Shift Solenoid 4

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6163.JPG

and on the end with the tab, the TCC solenoid

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6164.JPG

directly across from the TCC is the SSC, or Shift Solenoid 3

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6165.JPG

and finally, near the low reverse servo cover, is our last one - SSA or Shift Solenoid 1.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6166.JPG

Zippee, is your 97 OHV or SOHC ? I need to know for the correct separator plate.

Sohc.

How much should we expect to pay a reputable shop to do this for us? I have a 2002 XLT with the 2-3 shift flare.

"How much should we expect to pay a reputable shop to do this for us?"

By "this" do you mean the rebuild as I demonstrated it, or just adding the Ford Mod and new separator plate? I wish Eneurb was around, he could probably give us the Labor detail that Ford uses. I would think the labor for the FORD mod should be around 3-4 hours (to the public, for warranty I bet FORD reimburses them an hour or so less). You could probably add another hour to 1.5 to do all the rest, so (mind you this is practically a wild guess) say around 5 - 6 hours times the shop rate, plus the cost of the parts. I'm thinking this should set a clear HIGH side. Low would probably be around 3.5 to 4 hours.

I am no expert on shop rates and shop times, so take that into consideration as you review this post. Others may be better able to advise you.

Well, I read through the thread and got kinda lost (due to my own ignorance), but I think what I would want would just be the Transgo or Superior valve body rebuild, right? I just want to get rid of the 2-3 flare.

I have one for sale in the "For Sale" section. You'd only have to pay someone to install it. or, alternately, install it yourself.

I just got done finishing up the installation of the superior kit. It went well, and works great. Only had 1 minor problem. I didnt hook the manual valve up. Glacier diagnosed why the tranny didnt engage in any gear, and walked me through it. Took me about an hour to finish it this morning. Overall the superior kit can be installed in anyones driveway in about 4-6 hours. The tranny shifts really well now. You can feel the shifts and when you really get on it, you can really feel the shifts. I really recommend the kit. The main reason I did the install was because a shop quoted me $350 to install it, so I did it myself and am glad I did. And I would recommend having a service manual for the trans, I didnt have one, but it would have helped with taking the valvebody out and putting it back in. But its not really necessary if your mechanically inclined. Thanks again glacier.

Dan

Thanks for posting Dan. Glad you're happy! A couple notes... it is REALLY easy in your thrill of getting the valve body installed to forget the "minor" detail of hooking up the manual valve as you fit the VB back into the transmission. If that isn't hooked up, you will be a NO GO. (or worse only a go in the position the manual valve happens to be in when you install the VB. I've done it. Hank's done it, Dan's done it....in fact lots of us have done it... so...REMEMBER TO HOOK UP THE MANUAL VALVE.

Also the quote of $350 is pretty much in line with my guestimate based on shop rates above. That wasn't really a terrible quote. It is just a fact of life that paying someone else to do auto work is not cheap.

I'll end by commenting on the fact that proper torquing of the VB and new gaskets are essential. Just a reminder.

glacier991 since i am back and can start thinking about the trany again how does this sound to fix it. (got a 2-3 flare just so you remember).

Transgo Shift kit
updated bracket from the like first or second pages
Sonnex Boost Valve Kit
the book (the atsg or whatever name it is)
and of course add a remote cooler to the works..
(will be spreading the stuff or over 3 or 4 paychecks)

i need to learn on this one.. and the next one i do will be a complete rebuild for a supercharged and heavly mod'ed 4.0 oh yea what are your thoughts on synthics?

The transgo kit, as a single kit is a good choice. I am not as excited about the Boost Valve on this as I am the A4LD but concur it is an ok mod..... the new bracket is only gonna set ya back $7..... course you will need new sep plate gaskets too (about $10 the pair)... and for longevity, nothing beats a extra cooler. So you have my blessing on your choices (g). You might want to put a drain plug in the pan, and then later when yer feeling rich, replace the EPC around 80-100,000 miles, without taking the ATF bath.

since i am at 120,000 on the tranny the epc is still good.. should i add that to the list .. or wait and do it on my donor trany that i will be doing the complete rebuild on.. expect a few emails on it. since i am doing the vb upgrade on this tranny anything else you would do? and dont worry i am mechinally inclined so i should be able to handle it ( the donor is going to be a bullet proof upgrade i hope)

Nothing wrong with waiting. I suspect that the EPC is one of those things that fail early on some and way later on others.... but I accept the advice to replace it in a rebuild. (which assumes you may NEVER be going back in).

me never go back in? what? thats like saying you''ll never touch a tranny again.. i may pull it part just to make sure it looks like i put it back together right

I was quoted around $300 by my local Ford dealer for the 3-22-10 tsb. Sounds like a fair price by comparison. It also comes with a 12/12k warranty.

Thanks for taking the time to explain all 3 options. You made it much clearer to me. Sounds like something I could do myself if I had a lift, 4 hours, and didn't mind a Mercon bath.

Well, I was finishing up a 5R55E valve body and thought for grins I'd show you what the FORD Transmission tester can do for you... without even dropping the pan.... I realize you don't have one but your dealer does, and those guys should know how to use em. It helps to know what they can do, and might save you some frustration and put you on an equal footing with a service writer someday to see it. If you are crazy like I am, you can buy one of these puppies on E-bay for between $275 and $400.

The 5R55E trannie, like all modern FORD trannies has an external plug that hooks up to the internal electronic components (mainly solenoids, and in some cases speed sensors and temp sensors)... although this one in this post is hooked up to a valve body, if it were in the car, the valve body would be inside the transmission and the connector would be on the external case, where you could hook up to it without dropping the pan. Clean and easy. Here we are hooked up to the external part of the harness

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6167.JPG


and on the other end is the tester

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6168.JPG

The overlay is for the 4R55 but it works equally on the 5R55. The tester can be used to actually drive the transmission as it is on the road... replacing the computer, or it can be used in a "bench" mode to test electronic components. We are in "bench mode".

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6170.JPG

Notice that the bench mode has a selection of solenoids to test, whereas the drive mode selects actual gears. The 5R55E has 6 solenoids.... 4 shift (one called variously the Coast Clutch solenoid) a torque convertor clutch solenoid and an EPC solenoid.

We can test each using this tester, without taking anything apart except to hook up the umbilical. We can also test wiring for shorts (in another thread here, left out for now). So to start, we have selected shift solenoid 1 on the bench test mode...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6171.JPG

Notice the red button saying "Activate" and "click test"? Well when we push that, we hear an audible click in the solenoid.... and the green light shows us continuity

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6174.JPG

We can do the same for SS2

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6175.JPG

and SS3

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6176.JPG

now we have 3 left. The 4th shift solenoid (CCS as it is referred to, but is it really SS4) the TCC solenoid and the EPC.... those are on the top of the tester....First the TCC

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6177.JPG

next the CCS

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6178.JPG

and finally the EPC. The EPC may not click, the rest should make an audible click...the EPC has a myriad of positions and hence a single electrical jab may not move it far enough to make a click.... don't worry..

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6179-med.JPG

Ok we know they have continuity.... we can also check them for their internal resistance....(as well as the wiring etc as I mentioned previously)... so let's check them. Now we set the tester to ohms check

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6181.JPG

lets start on the top, the TCC first

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6182.JPG

11 ohms, right in range. Next up the CCS, remember this is a Shift solenoid, of which there are 4....

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6183.JPG

27 ohms, perfect. (as will be the rest). Then the EPC.... a different beast

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6184.JPG

5 Ohms... this is a brand new one. So it is good!, now 3 shift solenoids... 1,2 and 3

1

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6185.JPG

2

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6186.JPG

3

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6188.JPG

I have not shown the balance of the wiring tests, but suffice it to say you can test each wire for a short to ground. Some of you will appreciate this... it is an easy way to look into to transmission electrical. Hope this was instructive.

I had noticed that someone several posts earlier (page 3, maybe) had asked about what parts cost and where to get them. As I am going to be doing this update myself along with my 60k mile service, I have found most of what I need with the exception of the Sonnax Boost valve. I assume that everyone has been talking about getting the increased ratio valve, so that is what I will list here. I have compiled most of the actual manuf. part numbers. By the way, I am shopping for a 2000 Ranger 4x4 4.0L, so the parts you need may vary.

Here is what I will be getting from Ford Parts Network (Note: FOMOCO P/Ns):
3L5Z-7M203-JA, Install Kit, $13.68
1L5Z-7Z490-FA, Valve Body Separator (for my truck, others are different), $19.61
XL2Z-7L491-AA, Revised bracket, $5.82
I could not find the P/Ns for these on Ford Parts Network, but they are pretty easy to locate on their site:
Pan Gasket, Ranger; $11.47
Filter, Ranger, 5R55E, 5R44E, 4WD; $25.67

Here is what I will be getting from Teal Automotive, Inc.:
K4R/5R55E, Superior Shift Kit, $28

Again, I have not been able to find the Boost Valve. These prices are based on my own research and should be verified for your application. If anyone sees anything that I have left off or of a better dealer (I would like to use as few dealers as possible), let me know. Does anyone know if any instruction sheets are included with any of the Ford parts? Is there a Ford P/N for the factory service manual? Is it available from Ford Parts Network?

I hope this info helps some people out in "guesstimating" the price for all of the parts.

Thanks in advance for the answers to my questions!! :)

When I get this done, I hope to post some pics to compliment those from Glacier.

Does anyone know if any instruction sheets are included with any of the Ford parts? Kaiser, welcome to the forum. :) I'll answer this one; the Ford revised parts have excellent illustrated instructions included. (say that 3 times fast :p )

The Superior kit instructions will ask you to drill into your brand new separator plate. This made me slightly nervous, but I did it and the trans shifted fine afterward.

I used an ATSM manual from Makco Dist, part no. TM5R55E @ $16. This manual is very complete, although a Ford factory manual would probably be better......?

I think Glacier hinted that the Sonnax boost valve is not as necessary in the 5R, and I would agree. I think it solves a bore wear problem that the A4LD has, and the 5R dosen't have. I didn't add it to mine, however I did install a new EPC solenoid. (The old one had about 55K on it, and I did have the 2-3 flare.)

One tip that I'll share: Get a cardboard box bottom and draw a template of the new separator plate, showing the location of the bolt holes. Punch out the bolt holes in the cardboard. When removing the plate bolts, place them in the corresponding holes in the box template. This keeps them organized, and will make reassembly MUCH easier and faster. There are about 4-5 different bolt lengths, and they must be installed in the correct holes.

Good luck,
ROE

Thanks for the welcome. I was kind of on the fence on the boost valve after reading Glacier's comments, so not finding it is not a big deal to me. Thanks for the tip, that is a good idea as to keeping the bolts in order. I also plan on taking a lot of pictures. I will start looking for the manual you suggested and see what I can find and the price. If I find a good deal, I will post it.

Did I list all of the parts that I need? I am going to double check the TSB to make sure that I got everything. Are any additional gaskets needed or are they included with the kits that I have already listed?

Thanks for the help!!

I found the manual here for $16.50 (Makco as you suggested):
http://www.bulkpart.com/
They also had the Superior kit for $31.18, which is a little more than I had found elsewhere, but by the time you pay shipping twice, breaks even.

Did I list all of the parts that I need?......Are any additional gaskets needed or are they included with the kits that I have already listed?Kaiser, the only extra part that I installed was the EPC solenoid. I had a 2-3 shift flare, and it was cured with the installation of all the parts. The trouble is, I don't know which part or mod fixed the flare, since I installed all of them at once......? Regardless, if you have a flare, I'd include a new EPC. They're about $110, so it's up to you.

On your model, the separator plate gaskets will be bonded to the plate, so they're 'included' so to speak. Looks like you've listed everything that's needed.

You can't beat Bulkparts and FordPartsNetwork. Great suppliers & low pricing. I'm amazed at how quickly both these places ship.

ROE

Thanks for all of the help, ROE. One last thing, anyone know of a good way to install a drain plug into this pan? I do not have access to a welder, so I would need one of another type.

If you visit an Autozone or other popular auto parts store, in the oil section they usually have a display of replacement oil pan plugs. On that board is one that installs into a 1/2 inch drilled hole to create an entirely new plug. They cost like $5. Drill a half inch hole, deburr and install and "voila". Instant drain plug. No welding required.

Here is a picture of one:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn5302.jpg

and here is the "exploded" view of the parts.... pretty self explanatory:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn5300.jpg

( I knew I had uploaded one or two at some point.... whether they got posted I wasn't sure....I checked my gallery and voila... geeze I have 1500 pix uploaded! I should be able to find one of damn near anything <lol>)

For any bolt in drain plug, be sure to use locktite, and some RTV wouldn't hurt around the seals. I have had one leak, even installed properly. Regards,

Excellent advice, and remember, deburr your hole! And back up the drill bit as you drill it... a chunk of 2x4 is good....but Don's advice is excellent (as usual).

I had one leak as well once. Follow Don's advice about sealing it. :)

I HAVE a 1996 ford explorer i replace all 4 shift solenoid and now it won't go in rev or drive . the on way i can move it is to go in d2 or d3...i have a 4.0

how about a dictionary? that might help us understand that just a little bit there ron7910

oh and umm the engine type 5.0 or 4.0 sohc ohv type thing will help also. :eek:

then the all mighty glacier can help you

I think I might be able to help here. (Though a separate thread might be a better place). Ron E-mailed me.... the following (slightly polished - we're not all born typists)

"PLEASE HELP ..........I have a 96 ford explorer. The o/d light was flashing and the check engine light was on. When I pulled codes I found I have a code p0751 and p0756. [Both codes relate to shift solenoid failure]. So I replaced all 4 shift solenoids! When i got though with that job, I could not make the Explorer move in Drive or OD or reverse. [We now know from here it will move in manual 2 and 3] The truck was at least driveable before I replaced the solenoids. WHAT HAPPENED do you think?"

To begin, I am quite confident he has the 5R55 or 4R55, not the 4R70W. Solenoid count etc.... we'll see if I am correct. But with that assumption:

First of all those 2 codes relate to different shift solenoids. I have to wonder the liklihood in the normal world of multiple failures like that. We know from another thread that the wiring harness can fail and give all kinds of odd codes. So, the original code situation would have me wanting to test the solenoids, and then the wiring harness. Replacing the solenoids is the brute force way of testing them, and expensive, but hey... you at least know you got working(?) solenoids. [Not my recommended appoach however - replacing instead of testing. Wanna sell the old ones (smile)]

So you get it back together and bang... worse than when you started. I am not sure what all you did to remove the solenoids, whether you got the filter out, removed the VB or what? My current thought is that you have either have some form of hydraulic leak, or a blown harness (is my best guess, not knowing more, subject to revision and change as I learn more). If you removed the VB did you use BRAND NEW gaskets? Reusing gaskets on a VB is an invitation to disaster, especially this transmission! Let us know a little more, maybe even start a new thread with your question? We will try and help you.

fyi i ordered the parts tho ugh the site sponser ford parts network and saved 25 or bucks.. think about it before you buy

edited for typo's

Update:

Dealer just finished installing the 3-22-10 TSB. $425 because I have 4WD? Parts were plate, boost valve, filter and fluid.The rest was labor. If you have the time and skills, save some money and do it yourself. Me, I didn't have enough time and we have a roadtrip to Indiana coming up.

I have received the manual and shift kit from Makco (got here the next day!! Granted, it is only from Dallas to Houston). After re-reading this post as well as looking through the manual, I had another couple of questions. I plan on doing all of this work at 60k miles. Should I replace the EPC solenoid while I am doing all of this work? I am not having any shift flare problems right now, but really don't want to have to bother with dropping the valve body again (which I assume would mean the installation of a new separator plate as the gaskets are bonded to it) in the future. Also, in looking at the manual, as I am going to have to remove the reverse servo cover, is there a gasket that needs to be replaced there? Looking at Macko's site, they list the gasket for the 4R44E/55E, but not the 5R55E. Although, if I wind up making another order to get the solenoid ($114 at Makco, but I have not checked Ford Parts as of yet), I will likely order it, anyway. Any thoughts?

"Should I replace the EPC solenoid?" That's a judgment call. I do not claim enough experience to give you valuable insights into that. Torrie at FordParts has OEM for $112. It would be prophylactic, "might" save you trouble in the future, and at the same time yours may go another 60K. If you ask me would I? I'd hem and haw, but in the end, I think I would.

I've never had to remove a 5R55E valve body from a casse as yet, so I do not know about that low reverse servo cover... the old ones can generally be reused in a pinch on the A4LD's - they were metalized kind of like exhaust gasket gaskets.

Looking at Macko's site, they list the gasket for the 4R44E/55E, but not the 5R55E. I would have to assume the gaskets are the same, but don't know from firsthand experience. Since it was in good condition, I reused my old reverse servo cover gasket with no ill effects. I don't think there's a lot of pressure on that side of the servo.....You could easily make a gasket from a sheet of gasket material, if you had to.

As to the EPC, I replaced mine because of the 2-3 flare. I wanted to fix that gremlin in the worst way, so I took the 'shotgun' approach and replaced everything that I possibly could. By the way, IIRC it can be replaced without dropping the valve body again, since it's held in by the solenoid bracket.

Bottom line, working underneath vehicles is not my favorite pastime anymore, so I'd replace it as insurance for that.... :D Also, the EPC gets more wear than the others, since it's constantly dithering.

I completed the Ford factory update (new separator plate, new solenoid bracket and the "install kit"). I also installed the majority of the Superior kit (more on that later) along with a new filter, pan gasket and installed a drain plug. I am only going to go through the steps before and after the valve body mods as Glacier has covered that pretty well and his pics show a nice clean valve body :) .

Here are the special tools / supplies used:
Superior shift kit
Ford mod parts (refer to an earlier post of mine for what I bought and how
much it cost)
-Note: my separator plate came with bonded gaskets
Torx T-30 bit
3/8” drive torque wrench (must have a range of 70 to 135 in-lbs)
Drill bits up to 1/2"
-Note: bits for Superior kit are included with the kit
Drain plug kit from auto parts store (less than $5)
About 7 quarts of ATF (Mobil 1 for me)
I highly recommend getting the ATSG service manual as it covers just about everything, especially the tightening sequence for the valve body (which
these trannies are sensitive to, from my understanding). It is fairly inexpensive and came in handy. I ordered it from Makco along with the Superior kit.

Here is what I started with. The heat shield next to the cat will have to be removed (in the left side of the pic below).
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/KaiserM715/1.jpg

There are two clips and a 10mm nut (the nut is up above the upper clip shown in the pic). The nut has to be removed by feel as it is not visible from below.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/KaiserM715/2.jpg

Here it is removed:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/KaiserM715/heatsheild.jpg

Getting this thing on and off was nearly the hardest part of the whole thing!! It has to be rotated and snaked forward through the exhaust as well as some hardlines to get it out.

I put down a big catch pan (or a “cookie sheet” as my wife calls it) with an oil catch pan on top of that. Next the pan was removed. I left all but 3 bolts in (one at one end, two on the other) and slowly loosened the one until it was removed. I took my time draining as to avoid an ATF shower (I still smell like ATF as it is). After the pan was removed, I completely cleaned the inside of it. Make sure that you get most of the gunk off of the magnet.

Here is what we have now:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/KaiserM715/3.jpg

Note the pawls and the shifter detent spring (spring loaded roller) on the left side. There is a post that engages the spool valve that translates the gearshift position to the spool valve, in turn to the valve body. Note the reverse servo cover in the upper right. I reused the servo cover gasket as it was still in pretty good shape. The black plastic piece running across the valve body is the wire loom guide.

When you reinstall the valve body, you will need to make sure that the post engages the spool as shown here:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/KaiserM715/spool.jpg


While I waited for things to drain a little, I went ahead and drilled out the two orifices called out in the Superior kit.

This is the hole that is drilled out to 0.062”:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/KaiserM715/hole1.jpg

Here is the one drilled out to 0.086”:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/KaiserM715/hole2.jpg

I used a pocket screwdriver as a pointer as I couldn’t find my BBQ skewers :D I noticed that when I used a low drill bit speed, there was a lot less deburring to do.

Then, I removed the wiring connectors from the solenoids as well as the wire loom guide. Next comes the fun part (and yet another ATF shower). Remove the bolts (23 vb bolts, 4 reverse servo bolts and one for the shifter detent spring). I took ROE’s advice a made a template for the bolts, and was big help on the reinstallation.

Here is the removed VB:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/KaiserM715/vb.jpg

As you can see, there are a couple of places where the sep plate gasket blew out.

One by the 4 solenoids:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/KaiserM715/sol.jpg

The other by the reverse servo:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/KaiserM715/rev.jpg

I checked the resistance of the solenoids as Glacier did and here is what I found:
SSA,SSB,SSC,CSS: 22-48 ohms spec (mine were 26.4 ohms)
EPC: 3.1-5.7 ohms spec (mine was 4.7 ohms)
TCC: 8.9-16 ohms spec (mine was 10.4 ohms)

As Glacier has done an excellent job detailing the VB mods, I will not cover them. I completed the entire Ford service kit. I only did about half of the Superior kit. I did not do the following: replace the coast clutch valve retaining plug (I couldn’t get it apart using several different techniques, and the instructions as well as Glacier’s experience admit it is difficult to disassemble), the thermo blocker (I don’t think it is needed in Houston), the PressureRiser or intermediate return spring. I did not do the intermediate return spring due to access and lack of special tools (although I am sure there are a couple of “back pocket” methods available). The servo has to be compressed to get a snap ring out to get it apart. This also happens to be in very close proximity to the cat (refer to the pics above regarding the heat shield, these servos are what is shielded), creating the access problem.

The spring goes inside the intermediate servo, which you can just barely see just past the edge of the pan in the pic below. The upper one is the intermediate and the lower one is the overdrive servo:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/KaiserM715/int.jpg

After the mod kit and shift kit are installed, assembly is the reverse of disassembly with the following exceptions:
-Torque and torquing pattern on VB and reverse servo
-Torque on pan bolts

I did install a drain plug, using the location suggested by Brain in his Frankentranny post. I would recommend drilling the hole out in multiple stages to the 0.5” that is called for. I put a little silicone on both sides of the Teflon washer as well as some John Deere Rigid Form-in-place gasket maker (not a lot different than red Loctite) on the threads. I tightened it to about 15 ft-lbs.

Start to finish probably took me about 6 hours (at a pretty leisurely pace, with several trips out from under the truck to the tool box and back, a long lunch, etc.). If anyone wants any more info or has questions, let me know. Besides, I am sure that there is something I forgot to mention.

Great addition! I can't stress enough the importance on reassembly to make sure you get the manual valve hooked up - your pictures show that clearly.

I have to do this soon. Chris, would my Ford manual cover the torquing sequence?

Kaiser, were you able to pull the pan without pulling the drive shaft or the exhaust?

George

I should have tried to get some pics with my fingers in them. My pics just don't seem to fit.......

Zippee-

All I had to remove was the heat sheild and the pan. Granted I could not install the Superior intermediate servo spring, but other than that, no other parts had to be removed.

The driveshaft doesn't need to be pulled. I believe that the SOHC engines have a cat pipe which has to be removed. If so, spray the bolts with penetrating oil, long before loosening those bolts. Regards,

To finally make this thread complete, here is a pic of the torque sequence for the VB bolts. Zippee, I also recommend you retighten the sep plate 3 bolts to 75 inch lbs. Some minor crush might have occurred. Here is the sequence (I'll post a scanner image later, for now I took a pic of the FORD Manual page

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN6227-med.JPG

Note in the lower right the torque 71 - 97 inch/lbs. I'd bring it up in maybe 2 or 3 passes.


[Kaiser, a picture post without fingers is like a day without.... I dunno.... what, catshit?]

Not sure where to post this little vignette...but since it is valve body related here may be a good place.

As I have explored FORD transmissions..... I realized that as computer control came more into being in the 90's you needed a way to run the transmission unhooked from the vehicle wiring so you knew if the problem was truly trans, or the computer commands to it..... hence my acquisition of a FORD transmission tester.... on E-bay - I now have a 2nd one I am readying for sale btw. (I kind of skulk around on E-bay looking from time to time)....

The other thing I realized was there needed to be a way to test the solenoids... not the on and off ones, those are easy, but the EPC's and MCC's.... the PRICEY ones need something special that could cycle them and challenge their "different" way of operation.

Well I discovered that there is a company... Schaffer Test Products.... that makes solenoid testers .... pretty sophisticated ones...(www.schaffertest.com)... that do just that. Yeah but....PRICEY - $1500. OW.

But guess what... one showed up on E-bay and I bought it.... for......$54. YEP. FIFTY FOUR STINKIN BUCKS.

Now when they say "seems to power up, but I have no way to test" that should be a flag.... and is why I got it so cheap.... it works... but.... where I am supposed to be able to set a voltage at 5V I cannot get it past 1.5...

More research (this is where my limited electronic background helps) and I think I found the issue... (for your electronic wierdos - it is an IC 60V P-channel MOSFET in a TO-220 design on a heat sink.... IRF9541) So I am going to try replacing that part.... for under $5. If I can get this to work I'll have made the deal of the century and completed my transmission tools. I'll keep you posted.

Electronic gurus please PM me... I can use help....

ive been reading your post on these transmission testers and have sometimes thought that they look simple enough to build - especially for the "on and off" ones as you mentioned.

may i ask what makes the "pricey" ones different from the "on and off" ones? are these solenoids pulsed or something?

what'd be great is if some1 could design a schematic of a serial interface (to connect to a laptop - doing the D/A conversions and what not and also provide proper power to the solenoids) to connect to a wiring harness which then connects to the transmission connector. writing the software would probably be a snap since the logic seems simple enough (at least initially it does, it probably wont later on down the road ;) )

In a word yes. The Ford Transmission tester mainly acts to operate the transmission in the place of the computer, and at the same time give you what amounts to a "breakout box" for the solenoids so you can access them electrically without taking anything apart. It does not act to modulate any solenoid or check EPC solenoid performance per se, other than to see if the car shifts and acts ok without the computer in charge. You can use the New Generation Star (NGS - my kingdom for a NGS) tester to do those kinds of tests. This current tester I just acquired off E-bay DOES do frequency modulation of the MCC and EPC kind of solenoids, and uses air to test their response. It does not take the place of the FORD tester, but gives a greater dimension and ability to test the solenoids once you have them removed from the control body and out of the car. For the on/off variety, this tester is not much more sophistiocated that simply using a straight 12v power supply and clicking them while you run cleaner thru them. The modulated ones are where it shines. (And those are the main problem children anyway)

thats interesting. any EE's in the washington/NOVA area that wants to discuss this a bit (we'll start off slow)? i have a complete working 5r55e in the back yard (it squeels when running but i think that might just be a bearing, torque converter or something).

any part of the rebuild need pics? i am doing mine finally on friday if so i can take the pics then.


j

ok first the pic :

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/8/web/2036000-2036999/2036219_38_full.jpg
what your looking at.. a brown spring that has come up through the bore. So I pulled that section out and.. hmmm.. theres a spring there.. it was sticking before.. ie it was tough to moved the plug.. put it back to together and it moves fine. but where does the spring goes? or was it an extra one from who ever rebuilt it? either way the manual gets here tomorrow..

That is the reverse modulation valve. There is a deep inner spool, a spring, a mid bore retainer held by the L retainer, a spring, the outer spool, and finally a plug at the end of the bore. That could be the inner spring.

ok that explained the slow to engage reverse.. it was that spring took a little work to get it all part..

There should only be 2 springs in that bore. On and off springs got added as passage way "filters" to catch big debris....by rebuilders.... when you find one wadded up in the maze of the valve body, that's probably what it was.

I was gonna pull one apart and show you the exploded view, but the middle bore retainer is a bitch.

Zhanx sent me this link. Sonnax has come out with a new catalog, number 6 (As I understand it - thank you James in Hawaii) and this is from that catalog... a beautiful break down of this VB bore by bore with hints etc.... here it is... slow loader.

http://www.transmissionspecialty.com/parts/PDF/37947-Book(in).pdf

(somehow this didn't post as a clickable link, but you can cut and paste it into your browser)

pages 4 and 5 show the break down

This post is for the discussion on drain pan plugs on the previous page. I once used one of these drain plug kits, and the seals leaked. I removed it, and installed a magnetic drain plug, with a nut that is soldered (not welded) to the inside of the pan on an A4LD. Even though the pan already had a magnet, this magnetic drain plug was able to catch a lot of metal shavings. I recommend this set up for two reasons. The first one is that the drain plug on that kit is very small, and doesn't let the oil drain very fast. This is a standard size drain plug, just like the one on the engine's oil pan. The second one is that it is simple, and uses a minimum of discrete parts. Why use a small plug with a bushing when all you actually need is just the plug? I guess they think it's easier to install, because it doesn't require any soldering. I also made this same set up on my rear differential cover. It uses two of these. The top one is to fill the differential, and the lower one is to drain it.

After some heavy searching I found some sites providing all the parts listed in this diary. These sites also had the best pricing, hope this helps. :thumbsup:

A great link to Ford OEM parts and also the site sponsor. Most already know about this one. Here you can get the TSB update kit, gaskets, filter, solenoid bracket etc.
Fast Parts Network (http://www.parts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=318)

Great price on the Sonnax Boost Valve(sort by Title, boost valve should be third) The TransGo Shift Kit is also available here.
Transmission Parts USA (http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Transmission_Parts_s/67.htm)

Superior and Transgo shift kits(also the boost valve, but TransParts USA is cheaper)
Automatic Transmission Parts, Makco Distributing, Inc. (http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=4R44Evbkits)

Additionally, here are some part numbers*:
Sonnax Boost Valve:37947-01K(OEM RATIO)
Superior Shift Kit:K4R/5R55E
TransGo Shift Kit:SK4R44E/55
Ford VB Kit:3L5Z7M203JA
Ford Solenoid Braket Update:XL2Z7L491AA

*Vehicle specific parts not listed:
VB Separator Plate
VB Separator Plate Gasket
Filter
Pan Gasket

Vehicle Specific Part Application Chart(Calling your local Ford dealer will help in deciphering which parts you need here)
Vehicle Application Engineering Description Qty. New Service Part Use on Transmission Application 7000 -Reference Only-
95/96 Models ONLY
95/97 Models Separator Plate to Case Gasket 1 2L5Z-7C155-AA ALL
95/97 Models Separator Plate to Main Control Gasket 1 2L5Z-7D100-BA ALL
95/96 Models - ALL Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F5TZ-7A008-CA 95GT-AA/BA/CA/DA/EA/FA/ GA;96GT-BA/CADB/EB/FA/ GA/HA/KA/MA/NA
97 Models ONLY
97 2.3L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-AB 97GT-GC
97 3.0L OHV Ranger/Aerostar Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-AB 97GT-EC/FC/MC/NC/RE/SE
97 4.0L OHV Ranger/Aerostar Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-CB 97GT-KE/LE
97 4.0L OHV Explorer/Mountaineer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-DB 97GT-KF/LF
97 4.0L SOHC Explorer/Mountaineer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 F77Z-7A008-EB 97GT-AE/BE
1998-2001 Models ONLY
98/01 2.5L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-DA 98GT-GA; XL5P-CA
98/00 3.0L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-EA 98GT-EB/FB; XL5P-AA/BA
98/00 4.0L - EI Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-FA 98GT-KB/LB; XL5P-DA/EA/FA
98/00 4.0L - EI Explorer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-GA 98GT-CB/DB; XL2P- EA/FA
98/00 4.0L - SOHC Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-HA 98GT-AA/BA; XL2P- CA/DA
2001-2002 Models ONLY
2001/2002 2.3L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-AA 1L5P-CA
2001/2002 3.0L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-BA 1L5P-AA/BA
2001/2002 4.0L-SOHC - ALL Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-CA 1L5P-DA/EA

I KNOW MOST OF THIS HAS BEEN PREVIOUSLY POSTED. MY INTENTION IS FOR ALL THIS INFORMATION TO BE ON ONE POST.

Thanks again Glacier...

Did the rebuild today. Started around noon and finished at 7 or so. Took me a bit longer because I misjudged the amount for refill. For the most part I'll give the rebuild a B+. If the instructions gave more detailed info on what each mod did would help a lot. Reasons why certain problems occur would also be of great interest.(ie, why it is flaring on 3rd or slow reverse engagement, etc.) I too did not do the "Pressure Riser" mod with the same idea of 'going back" if it needed to be done. Then again, I have no idea what the hell it does so what's the difference? I won't miss it either way....

Although the instruction for both the Ford and Superior mods were detailed, they were not detailed enough. I found many questionable areas.

I would like to personally thank the engineer that decided to bond the gaskets to the sep plate. Holy crap, that saves some aggrivation!!

Finally, no one can prepare you for the ATF shower that awaits those destined for a VB rebuild.....lol....good luck and may the force be with you.

Matt

:thumbsup: Good job, Matt. So how does it shift? I presume the 2-3 flare is gone? And did you replace the EPC solenoid?

I did mine almost a year ago, with about 11K miles on it now, and still no problems. (Knock on wood and cross fingers.) I noticed immediately after doing the work, that the transmission seemed to shift at more uniform RPM points. Seemed to change gears much better than when stock. Hope yours is doing as well.

Have to go now; gotta chase that fat man and his reindeer off my roof.....

Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah to all,

ROE

Finally, no one can prepare you for the ATF shower that awaits those destined for a VB rebuild.....
Matt

umm.. loosen the bolts after jackin the front of the truck up.. start at the rear and work both sides to the front.. a standerd drip pan will get it all almost. for wher it hits the crossmember I just used to quick clamps to stop the flow and keep it in the drip pan.. with only one or two bolts it drains a ton. just dont be like me and drop the pan on yourself as you drop it down to finish draining it.

j

umm.. loosen the bolts after jackin the front of the truck up.. start at the rear and work both sides to the front.. a standerd drip pan will get it all almost. for wher it hits the crossmember I just used to quick clamps to stop the flow and keep it in the drip pan.. with only one or two bolts it drains a ton. just dont be like me and drop the pan on yourself as you drop it down to finish draining it.

j


HA, easier said than done! Sure, you can easily stay dry enough getting the pan off, it's removing the VB that gets you... :p

:thumbsup: Good job, Matt. So how does it shift? I presume the 2-3 flare is gone? And did you replace the EPC solenoid?

I did mine almost a year ago, with about 11K miles on it now, and still no problems. (Knock on wood and cross fingers.) I noticed immediately after doing the work, that the transmission seemed to shift at more uniform RPM points. Seemed to change gears much better than when stock. Hope yours is doing as well.

Have to go now; gotta chase that fat man and his reindeer off my roof.....

Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah to all,

ROE

Thank you and Happy Holidays!

I'm taking a break from my guests, so here's the rundown...

These items were not installed:
Pressure Riser(The pressure riser supplied with this correction package keeps line pressure at a consistent level during operation. Why?)
Coast clutch spacer(couldn't get it out and was not willing to force it)
Remote servo spring something or other(blue color)

My 5R55E has 104k on it and my particular issue was the 3rd shift flare and it's been fixed. It still is a less solid shift compared to the first two points, but the rpm flare is completely gone. It's actually the "3rd" shift point and all points after that are softer than points one and two. Am I making sense?

I did not change the EPC since I did not feel it was a problem area and again, it can easily be changed later.

Here is what I immediately noticed:

Better resonse from stop
No Reverse delay(mine was slight at best, now it's completely gone)
Solid shifts under medium/heavy accel
OEM shifts normal accel
More consistant shifting points
Shifting into OD is late(which is nice to me, I hated early shifts into OD)
Solid down shifts

Most noticable was the response and firmness. Before mods the 5R55E seemed confused more than anything else, my guess is this was caused by 6 seperate seal blowouts on the sep plate. Now it's definitely in shape.

Like I stated earlier, it would be great if there were explainations for each individual bore mod and causes of listed fixes.

Oh and I put a drain plug in too.

I will update my 5R55E's health here periodically, for the sake of science.

I am also interested to know when the clutch bands come into play. Is there a seperate band for each gear or a set of bands that operate on every shift?

Regards,
Matt

Matt.... thanks for posting your results. I will try and share what I learn as I learn it... I learn something every day, and folks like you who post results only further my knowledge and everyone else's. In way too many cases the whys of certain aftermarket fixes are a mystery to folks like us. Sonnax is opening up the mystery a little. Anyway I am constantly learning and soon I hope to post some thoughts on various problems in a simple thread so people can look at the thread and find their problem and maybe find some possibly causes and know what fixes might be best for them.

On bands... go to http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission.htm and read up on auto transmission operation (a great site and a good explainations.) Bands and clutches are the things that make planetary gearsets work like they should. The automatic transmission is all about planetary gearsets. That site will help explain it.

After you read it if you think there is something I can explain better, or if you still have Q's let me know. I solicit your ideas and ideas from others of threads on auto trannies that would be helpful.

Ok, so I have been reading this thread and have already had some PM contact with Glacier about the problem I am having. Last thurs., my 96 2WD ex with 140,000 started to not shift into 2nd gear. All other gears fine, just 2nd. If I shift into 2nd manually, the transmission slips, not completely in neutral, but definitely not solid. After a short time, the CEL came on and then later the O/D light started flashing. On Fri., I had to drive 165 miles home for Christmas, no problem, just when I had to stop, I had to rev 1st up to about 4000, then take my foot off of the gas to let it drop into 3rd. BTW, the truck has been maintained pretty well and has not been abused. Driven hard on the highway, but not abused. Very little towing. So today, I dropped the pan, no pieces of anything, just the standard metal sludge clinging to the magnet and some brass/bronze flecks (microscopic) in the filter. Replaced filter and fluid. Took to Autozone and checked trouble codes: P0756 shift solenoid #2 performance. This jives with Glacier's supposition of a shift solenoid problem.

Questions:

1. Is it possible/probable that this is the only problem, or is it likely that there is a broken band or other rebuild-requiring problem?

2. Can I do some kind of drive test to determine if there is another problem (mechanical related)?

3. Which solenoid is #2, EPC, TCC, etc.?

4. Can the solenoids be replaced without removing the valve body?

5. Should I go ahead and do the shift kit and other modifications while I repair this?

Thanks, in advance, for any help.

Sam Milton

Questions:

1. Is it possible/probable that this is the only problem, or is it likely that there is a broken band or other rebuild-requiring problem?

2. Can I do some kind of drive test to determine if there is another problem (mechanical related)?

3. Which solenoid is #2, EPC, TCC, etc.?

4. Can the solenoids be replaced without removing the valve body?

5. Should I go ahead and do the shift kit and other modifications while I repair this?

Thanks, in advance, for any help.

Sam Milton

1. If it's having trouble shifting into 2nd then you may have a bad solenoid or the seal has broken on the sep plate. Plus you have a code to back that up. Honestly, you could have some internal issues, but you can start by doing this as a possible fix. In the end it'll cost you about $200.

2. You've pretty much done this already.

3. See attached photo.

4. Yes

5. Might as well do the Ford kit, Superior Shift Correction kit and Sonnax boost valve while you're in there.

Good Luck,
Matt

Yes, do the valve body upgrade stuff. Change the EPC solenoid also. The solenoids do not last the life of the vehicle, and the EPC is the least likely to, and most important. Do those, and pray. Those things would be needed even if the trans needs rebuilding, so no money is lost doing it. Good luck,

Much thanks, Glacier, Matt and Don, for your quick help. I'm going to do the valve body rebuild and replace the #2 solenoid, just as soon as I get home where my tools are. Two more questions:

1. Is the consensus that it is better to do the Superior and the TSB rather than do the Transgo kit?

2. Does anybody know the Ford part number for the #2 solenoid?


Sam Milton

Matt.... thanks for posting your results.

You're welcome!

Much thanks, Glacier, Matt and Don, for your quick help. I'm going to do the valve body rebuild and replace the #2 solenoid, just as soon as I get home where my tools are. Two more questions:

1. Is the consensus that it is better to do the Superior and the TSB rather than do the Transgo kit?

2. Does anybody know the Ford part number for the #2 solenoid?


Sam Milton

You should read through this diary again. Glacier found the Transgo kit to be an inferior duplication of the Ford kit.

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/4R44E_5R55E_Shift_and_Coast_Solenoid_1995_on_p/609-00056841u.htm
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=2&Product_Code=D56421B&Category_Code=4R44Esolenoid&Product_Count=3

You should read through this diary again. Glacier found the Transgo kit to be an inferior duplication of the Ford kit....

I would not characterize the TransGo kit as inferior, and Chris did not either. He stated that he didn't think that a couple of things needed to be done. Chris knows the purpose and workings of the internal trans parts far better than most people.

I discovered before doing my 99 5R55E that the TransGo kit was designed to do everything that the Ford TSB's are for, and be applicable to all models of the 5R55E. I chose to use thre TransGp kit because of that, and the fact that I have had great success with many other TransGo kits. I trust them, and I know that they have been in business for decades longer than Superior, they owned the phrase "Shift Kit." I have yet to test my vehicle yet, but I am not worried. Good luck,

I would not characterize the TransGo kit as inferior, and Chris did not either. He stated that he didn't think that a couple of things needed to be done. Chris knows the purpose and workings of the internal trans parts far better than most people.

I couldn't agree more and my wording wasn't quite right. In my opinion the Transgo kit is obsolete.

Matt

Ok so I dropped the pan again and replaced the SSB (2nd gear shift solenoid) with one from my local Ford dealer ($68 plus tax). This did not cure the problem, but it seems to be better. Also I swear it is shifting into 2nd sometimes. So I am going to replace the EPC solenoid as suggested by everyone, and do the TSB and Superior kits. If that does not cure the problem, I will just have to bite the bullet and do a rebuild. BTW, is it true you must pull the engine to get the transmission out?

I still have a few questions, also. Does most of the above discussion include the 4R55E? What differences in procedure or parts exist, if any? I know that the separator plate and gaskets are different, but what about other differences? Does anybody know the two letter designation at the end of the Ford part number means? I can't figure out what the part number for the sep plate should be, based on the TSB. My truck is a 96 XLT V6. Also, here are the parts I plan to get. Will someone look at this and see if they think it is right?

-TSB kit 3L5Z-7M203-JA
-Improved solenoid bracket XL2Z-7L491-AA
-Valve body separator F5TZ-7A008-CA ????????????
-Sep plate to case gasket 2L5Z-7C155-AA
-Sep plat to main gasket 2L5Z-7D100-BA
-EPC solenoid XL2Z-7G383AA (This is the later model EPC I
can use with the TSB, right?)
-Sonnax boost valve 37947-01K
-Superior kit K4R55E
-some kind of transmission service manual

Also, if I am doing a complete valve body rebuild, I need to replace the three other shift solenoids, right? I have the model number at home, but I know that it is the right one. Something like 7G484 or something. Should I also replace the TCC solenoid?

Thanks again for all the the help. You guys are doing the work which helps all of us understand our trucks and save money fixing them. (and making them run better :)

Sam Milton

Sam....
Let me see if I can answer your questions. First the 4R55 VB and the 5R55 are same or nearly so, so what works for one works for the other as best i know. I will caution I have not rebuilt a 4R55 valve body but about 10 5R55E's now.

Your EPC replacement number is correct. TCC is also a modulated solenoid, and so will wear out, but not sure youo have that problem, so it is your call to replace it. Shift solenoids check their resistance and clean then by blowing brake cleaner thru them as you cycle them using 12V.... be careful of fire.

I will have to visit the tsb to see what plate and gaskets you will need. Just follow the diary and you will be fine.

Even if this does not solve your promlem, you will have a rebuilt VB in your rebuilt tranny, better than the rebuilder would have given you.

Take your time and you'll do fine. If you have questions feel free to ask. Oh, I am told the two letter designator at the end is build series. AA is first, AB second, etc.... significant design change would be BA etc.... take that with a grain of salt...

Sam, call your local Ford parts guy to get the right sep plate numbers. That's what I did with mine since two or three plate numbers overlap each other depending on year.

As for the Sonnax and Superior kit numbers you are on track. Both kits and teh TSB come with detailed enough instructions to do the rebuild without a manual.

I personally think you should do the rebuild first and then replace the solenoids if it's needed. If you do want to do all the solenoids, you can buy a solenoid kit which includes all you need for a particular trans.

Matt

I agree with most all of that. Change the solenoids based on mileage, or indicated symptoms. If symptoms don't point to a specific solenoid, only change them based on mileage. The EPC has worn out far faster than the others, so always change that unless the mileage is extremely low, say under 30K.

The solenoids should be looked at like other normal wear parts, like water pumps, timing belts, timing chains, etc. They take a significant amount of labor to change alone. When doing some other labor which gets you to those parts, consider replacing them to save future labor. Good luck,

I went through the same problems with my 95 that samrebel is having with his. I did the Ford mod using the Ford kit, VB plate and the VB gaskets. But I am reasonably sure what cured the problem was replacing both servos. Ford has a TSB 97-17-24 that addresses this symptom. They can be replaced without pulling the tranny and they were cheap as well. They can be tested with an air hose with a narrow rubber tip. I set mine to about 30 psi and air passed by both servos. They were worn and hard as a brick.

Many thanks to Glacier for this diary, I kept the laptop on my bench as a reference while I did the upgrade.

Frank

I am getting ready to order my parts: Ford parts from Ford Parts Network, obviously, but can anyone recommend a good place to order the Sonnax boost valve and the Superior kit from online? I am reasonably sure that the parts I listed above are correct, except for the valve body separator. The parts man at a local Ford dealership looked up part # F5TZ-7A008-CA, which he could enter into the computer directly and would come up as applicable to my vehicle, but it did not come up the normal way (did not understand this, I guess the normal way is browsing a list). He stated that the numbers listed after the part # on the TSB are the transmission codes that the part is applicable to, and this particular part is applicable to all of the 96 trucks. Does this sound right to you, Matt? Also, based on Frank's post, I will also replace the intermediate and OD servos. The parts guy found number F77Z-7D021-A2A for a "piston and rod assembly" which is used for both servos. Does this sound right to you guys?

Sam

Sam,

On page 7, post #136 I have listed sites for all the parts. Post numbers are located on the upper right of each post.

Matt

For those doing servos (never a bad idea they DO harden up and cost like $8 apiece) - just a bitch to get to on some setups, especially the A4LD installed....PM me and I can send (loan) you the FORD tool for compressing the servo covers . It's not a requirement but it sure makes the job a lot easier. I can also send you the Superior kit modified springs (I have a bunch of brand new extras). First come first served.

In the past, I've used a welding "C" clamp vice grip to compress the servo covers, and pistons. This holds them in place while those clips that hold the covers could be removed/installed. This vice grip clamp could only be used with the pan off, of course.

The parts that Sam has listed are the same as what I ordered including the servos. You might also replace the orings on the servo cover, I don't have the number in front of me, but they were about a buck each from Ford.
I loosened the band adjustment to allow the piston and cover to be compressed enough to remove and install the snap rings. I also used a large boxend wrench with the exaust pipe as a fulcrum and the round part of the wrench flat against the cover to compress the cover. Then a small short screwdriver to remove the snap ring. An extra hand from my helper, (my teenage daughter) made it easy!

Frank

There are lots of workarounds possible. Thanks for sharing yours... it will be helpful. Sam has the FORD tool winging its way to him as part of the Forum Ford Transmission tool loaner program. I have a teenage daughter who rolls her eyes whenever I say "Can you give me a hand with something?" <g>

Thanks for the double-check on those part numbers, Frank. And big thanks to glacier, for loaning an expensive tool to a relative stranger. You guys are lucky, having daughters who will turn a wrench for you. (I imagine daughters don't qualify as cheap labor, though!) I'm only 27 and a bachelor, so I don't have those problems yet. However I do have plenty of buddies who will work for free if you keep them plied with cheap beer. You just have to ration or you might end up with a few backwards installed parts. We installed half of the rods backwards and notched six water jackets on my buddy's' Chevy 383. Ouch. We got it put together right, though, now it's sporting tunnel rams and makes about 450 hp on motor. With some good aftermarket heads it should make 550. Anyway, hopefully I won't need any help for this, with the Ford tool. I'm ordering from Ford Parts Network today, already ordered the Sonnax boost valve and Superior kit. I hope this fixes it, I am really sick of dreading stop lights. I'm still trying to find a good tranny shop, in case it doesn't fix it.

Sam

Just got off the phone with Superior about the pressure riser.

This increases the line pressure 5psi and helps stabilize the EPC. If you installed the correction package without the pressure riser and your trans is working properly then it can be left out.

I mentioned the diary Glacier and I will be talking to the VP of Superior next week to get info on each item of the kit and what each part changes.

I just might install the pressure riser in a few months. That way I have knowledge of how the tranny acted before and after.

Matt

Matt, thanks for your time to add to the "knowledge base" here.

I too left out the pressure riser with no ill effects. Since the Superior kit installation (w/plate and valve), the trans now has 12K miles on it and still shifts great.

ROE

I am looking forward to hearing what Matt and Glacier find out from Superior. I will also post an update on my installation. It has been over two months ago since I installed all of this, with one wheeling trip, a hwy trip (with 1000lbs of engine and tranny in the bed) and a lot of city driving. Everything has worked very well, I just wish I would have done all of this about 2-3 years sooner!!

Hey guys. While I am waiting for my parts to come in, I have a question for all of you. I am not allowing my planning for rebuilding my valve body and replacement of the servos to make me overly optimistic that it will be a panacea for my transmission. While I would love for that to happen, this transmission has almost 140,000 miles on it. It will need a full rebuild eventually. I am only doing this work to: 1. possibly postpone the full rebuild as long as possible, 2. I normally do as much of my vehicle work as I can to save money, learn things, and be assured it is being done correctly. That being said, a full rebuild involves replacement of clutches, steels, friction bands, forward one-way clutch, pump, etc. (Name anything else anyone feels is mandatory on a quality rebuild.) How much can I expect a partial rebuild to cost, assuming I have already installed the TSB, superior kit, new servos and gaskets, and new EPC? I have friends who think that no transmission shop would be willing to take on a partial rebuild at a reduced price with their normal warranty, due to the fact that they did not do the valve body work. It seems to me that a fair and honest shop would simply check the valve body to verify that it was done correctly, rebuild the rest, and charge for the time and the actual parts. However, I am not naive and generally detest the automotive repair industry, and my gut tells me that most shops will either insist a flat price for a rebuild, or not take on the job. What do you guys think?

Sam

I am not allowing my planning for rebuilding my valve body and replacement of the servos to make me overly optimistic that it will be a panacea for my transmission.
Sam

pan·a·ce·a

A remedy for all diseases, evils, or difficulties; a cure-all.

We're learning more than just transmission stuff here guys.....thanks Sam. :p

Even on a remanufactured tranny, putting in your own VB voids all warranties. In my experience, shop will only do a full rebuild and will only warranty a full rebuild. These are usually 12/12 warranties, but you can purchase additional time and mileage in 12/12 increments.

Probably the only partial rebuild you'd get is a VB/tranny split. Nothing partial in the tranny itself, that would be an entire rebuild. This basically includes replacement of warn parts only and no upgrades. That's what I was told anyway.

Before I did my VB rebuild I went to Mr. Transmission(franchise) for the fun of it. I went on a ride along with the so call master tranny tech, he drove. When it flared in thrid he immediately said that the bands were burned up and it needed a rebuild. Just what I have learned from Glacier made me chuckle when he said this. Needless to sy when I got back to the shop I asked more questions. Basically this place was a complete repair shop and not a 'specialist' so to speak even though the name leans in that direction. their rebuild price was $2500 with a 12/12 warranty. When I spoke of the VB he would chaneg the subject and or say that VB is usually not the problem area. This is why I lose trust in so many shops because I research it first and then go see if they know what the deal is. Am I wrong for doing that?

Anyway, good luck Sam

Matt

As for daughters as helpers, mine is motivated since the Explorer is what she wanted for her first car. We found it on Ebay for $1200.00 with a blown engine. With used engine and transmission parts we still have less than 2k in the entire truck and my daughter can talk motors and transmission parts to her friends at school! That should impress the guys or intimidate them, I am not sure which! She can change her own oil and tires as well!

Frank

Hey guys. I've gotten all of my parts now, and my inch-pound torque wrench (hope +/- 4% accuracy is good enough) and I have a another question. My TSB kit did not contain the spring shown by Glacier in Post #20. I have the dimpled valve, and the retainer, but no spring. The kit doesn't refer to the spring in the parts listing, or say anything about replacing a spring with a new one in the instructions, either. Is this an updated kit in which they determined that replacing the spring was not necessary, or is it an obsolete kit before they determined the spring should be replaced? The release date on my instructions sheet says 4/3/03. Has anyone gotten the kit without the spring?

Sam

I am thinking about trying do the job over this long weekend. In addition to transmission fluid, vaseline, standard mechanics tools, etc., what other tools come in handy for this. Do I need some spray gasket stick (my gaskets are not bonded)? What would you suggest for my leaking drain valve?

Sam

Sam-
If I recall correctly, that spring was the stock spring and was not addressed by the Ford TSB kit. That spring is changed out by the Superior kit, unless you opt for the heavy duty option, which resuses the stock Ford spring. Glacier, correct me if I am wrong, but isn't the spring that you show in post #20 the stock Ford spring?

Yes, it is. I need to change that picture. The picture in either post 44 or 45 (forgot which) shows what the FORD mod consists of, which is the popoff valve, retainer and instructions only.

Sam,

My TSB kit did not have the spring either and like you I was a bit confused, but the parts list does not list the spring so I wasn't worried. It's actually the deleted EPC limit vavle spring in that picture.

Glacier, I don't believe your post with that photo has a reference to the spring, just a generalized "this is what you get".

Details on the heavy duty option...

Superior's kit does have the heavy duty option, but you cannot use this option because the stock spring is installed between the piston and against the TSB valve screen. Because the spring rests against the screen, quite tightly I might add, it can't be used without damaging the screen. I haven't called Superior yet, but my guess is they did not incorporate the TSB when designing their kit.

You'll need about 7 qts Mercon V to fill it back up.

Did you get a filter? If not, get one.

One thing I would like to add and I think Ford should change is the diagram error. If you look on your TSB diagram of where the valve goes is shows BORE 207 above the actual bore you will be working on. Then the written instructions say to remove the plug from bore 207, but the exploded view shows it going next to bore 207. Glaciers photos helped to resolve this issue. Just didn't want you to get confused. Maybe Glacier can elaborate on this?

Make a piece of cardboard shaped like the gasket and holes, use the holes for each bolt when you take them out. They are different lengths. Trust me, the prep time is worth it.

Good Luck,
Matt

Well, the FORD diagram IS a little confusing, until you actually look at the VB. The diagram has an arrow next to the words "Bore 207" that appear to point at the end most bore.... the exploded diagram shows it going into the next bore inboard. If we look at the VB, the end bore is the manual valve.... the "shifter" if you will. THAT is one piece and is not coming out. So the written words and arrow are misleading. It goes into bore #2, and this makes sense because that bore is an EPC Boost valve bore. So, question answered.

Matt... the spring from Superior for Bore 207 goes inboard of the spool, so NO Spring rests against the screen on the FORD MOD. I did both in that bore. Check out the pic in post 47.

Matt... the spring from Superior for Bore 207 goes inboard of the spool, so NO Spring rests against the screen on the FORD MOD. I did both in that bore. Check out the pic in post 47.

Yes, but for the heavy duty mod the stock spring is placed outboard of the spool, between the spool and the TSB valve screen. This according to Superior's diagram and text.

I believe it shows an arrow and text "heavy duty" with the arrow pointing to the outboard side of the spool.

First off let me say that I'm blown away by this forum and in particular this thread. My hat is off to everyone. Here is my situation, I have an 01 Sport Trac that only has 46K easy miles on it. Other than occassional odd or delayed shifts, all seemed fine. Out of the blue last week the trani slipped on my twice, no flashing OD or CEL, fluid is fine. It's been perfect since. I would like to do the Ford updates as described as a preemtive strike on future problems. I have a few questions I would appreciate any help on.

1) I'm not too comfortable mixing and matching fixes, that is why I plan on doing the Ford only mods (kit, bonded plate and probably the bracket). Am I missing out on anything else that will help preserve the transmission? I'm not looking to improve anything, just extend life.

2) All the kits (Ford, Transgo, and Superior) seem like they address overpressure with the EPC. Another forum that I frequent has suggested that adjusting the pressure regulator on the EPC itself (1/4 to 1/2 turn clockwise) can help with flare and shift problems, thereby increasing pressure. Won't this compound the problem?

3) While doing this project I may or may not get new solenoids, low miles after all and she really is running good. Someone mentioned you can get all six for a pretty good price, does anyone know where and how much?

4) Can I buy the double lipped reverse soleniod seal by itself and if so, where?

5) Lastly, I plan on installing a drain plug and remote filter, is there anyway that the filter can do any harm like restrict flow or something like that?

I've been on alot of forums but this one is stellar. Thanks in advance for any help.

Tim

I have an answer to question # 4. WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com has 2 kits available for the low/reverse servo piston. The first one is the double wiper style that you just mentioned for $1.52, and the second one is a viton seal kit that is made by Transtec for $2.70.

2) All the kits (Ford, Transgo, and Superior) seem like they address overpressure with the EPC. Another forum that I frequent has suggested that adjusting the pressure regulator on the EPC itself (1/4 to 1/2 turn clockwise) can help with flare and shift problems, thereby increasing pressure. Won't this compound the problem? Tim, I believe it's an UNDERpressure problem with the EPC, if indeed it's a problem at all.....? At least the Superior kit "Pressure Riser" part indicates that.

As to an EPC adjustment, I'm fairly certain there's no way to adjust the EPC solenoid. I eyeballed it pretty good when I replaced it, and there was no apparent way to adjust....?

Since you're doing only the Ford parts, I would also include a new EPC, since one poster here seemed to cure the 2-3 flare with a new EPC. These problems show up after 40-80K miles, so they could be caused from wear, possibly in the EPC.

ROE

Thanks guys, I'm definately confused though. As far as the EPC goes on our Sport Trac 5R55E's (Still an Explorer) there is a torque screw right in between the connectors for the harness. When Glacier referred to the Ford kit he showed the "pressure relief valve for the EPC" and the Transgo kit had an almost identical valve. The Superior kit he states: "pressure riser" (which apparently reduces the electrical voltage to the EPC and is how they reduce over pressure".

I take it the Sonnax boost valve increases pressure for other functions, here is what they say on the transmissionpartsusa website "Reduces delayed reverse engagement and improves line pressure rise." Very confusing, some parts limit pressure, some blow off excess pressure and this one raises it.

I also did a search on transmissionpartsusa for the reverse seal and can't find anything. I searched 5R55E, Viton and Transtec.

The more I look into this project the more I think I'm getting in over my head. I mean I'm certain I can perform the work properly but what's really getting me nervous is it seems that not all 5R55E's are created equal and I don't want to toast my trani. What do you guys think?

Thanks again!!!
Tim

1) I'm not too comfortable mixing and matching fixes, that is why I plan on doing the Ford only mods (kit, bonded plate and probably the bracket). Am I missing out on anything else that will help preserve the transmission? I'm not looking to improve anything, just extend life.

2) All the kits (Ford, Transgo, and Superior) seem like they address overpressure with the EPC. Another forum that I frequent has suggested that adjusting the pressure regulator on the EPC itself (1/4 to 1/2 turn clockwise) can help with flare and shift problems, thereby increasing pressure. Won't this compound the problem?

3) While doing this project I may or may not get new solenoids, low miles after all and she really is running good. Someone mentioned you can get all six for a pretty good price, does anyone know where and how much?

4) Can I buy the double lipped reverse soleniod seal by itself and if so, where?

5) Lastly, I plan on installing a drain plug and remote filter, is there anyway that the filter can do any harm like restrict flow or something like that?

I've been on alot of forums but this one is stellar. Thanks in advance for any help.

Tim

Welcome to the site, I will try to answer all of your questions and hopefully Glacier can add his input as well.

1)The Ford Kit is a stand alone update for the 5R55E. The Superior and Transgo kits are modifications or correction kits. Glacier pointed out that the Transgo kit was almost identical to the Ford TSB so you would want to get either/or and the consensus here is the Ford TSB kit. The Superior kit is helpful when you have malfunctions that can be corrected. I did post a few web sites where this information is available. If you are going to go through the trouble of dropping the pan and the VB then I suggest you do as much as you can while the oppurtunity exists. I'll leave this decision up to you.

2)The transgo and Superior kits address an UNDER pressure issue. According to Superior their pressure riser will increase transmission line pressure 5psi+/-. If there was a way to adjust the EPC, Glacier would have put it in the diary.

3)At 46k you can skip the solenoids unless you get a code, but if it will serve as piece of mind then by all means replace them.Solenoid kits (http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=4R44Esolenoid)

4)See Brooklynbay's post.

5)Spend your money on an additional cooler instead.

Good Luck,
Matt

The EPC solenoid is over $100 by itself, so with less than 50K miles, I'd wait until another fluid change to worry about that. Good luck, hopefully I'll have my 99 SOHC running soon(weeks), and can comment on the TransGo kit.

Good advice all. Someone asked about adjusting the EPC. Yes the EPC is adjustable, there is a little allen screw in the end of it. Did I mention doing that? no. NO! Why not? because Jerry Wreblowski, a FORD design engineer who has posted the definitive work on the 4R70W elsewhere says NO NO NO NEVER EVER EVER fool with the adjusting screw on an EPC. I listen. I saw no reason to even bring it up.

I have forgotten the name of the guy, was that the one who some J mod is named after for the 4R70W's? The same one who verbally bashed TransGo(in business longer than he's been alive)? Night Chris,

Yes the EPC is adjustable, there is a little allen screw in the end of it. Did I mention doing that? no. NO! Why not? because Jerry Wreblowski, a FORD design engineer who has posted the definitive work on the 4R70W elsewhere says NO NO NO NEVER EVER EVER fool with the adjusting screw on an EPC. By golly there IS an allen screw back there! :eek: I never considered it being an adjustment when I was working on mine, although I wouldn't have had the courage to mess with it anyway.

It would be interesting to know Wreblowski's reasons to avoid it, however. Obviously a very serious matter.....

His explanation is based on the 4R70W but is here:

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/page5.shtml

I have forgotten the name of the guy, was that the one who some J mod is named after for the 4R70W's? The same one who verbally bashed TransGo(in business longer than he's been alive)? Night Chris,

Do you own Transgo stock? Seems like any mention of Transgo and you are like, "who's saying sh*t about Transgo??!!!..... :p

Thanks for all the help gentlemen, there may be more to the epc adjustment then meets the eye. My main forum for tech support is mysporttrac.com, excellent site, very knowledgeable folks there. I posted a thread regarding this and here is what they say.

1) Per Jerry himself, adjusting the epc does not apply to the 5R55E.

2) 1/4 turn will give you 10-20 psi increase which will not hurt anything, adjusting it more and you can start to run into problems. My original post mentioned 1/4 to 1/2 turn clockwise, I was wrong, they say to go no more than 1/4 turn!

3) Performance flashers ,chips and such do the same mod but through the computer, if you have one or plan on adding one beware.

I'm just a DIY hack and don't know anything about transmissions. If this is of any help great, if not I'll just shut up.

Tim

Thanks for that info Tim. I still am not going to go out on a limb and recommend anyone fool with their EPC pressure screw. Too many variables. YBut the info you provided was VERy helpful!

Oh, and welcome to this board.

Thanks for the link, Glacier. Interesting reading on the EPC adjustment issue.
And thanks to you Tim, for clarifying it some more. One of these days I'll disassemble my old EPC and see what makes it tick, and see what that adjustment screw actually 'adjusts'.

I've heard or read somewhere that Ford's answer to the 2-3 flare is to re-program the PCM to increase the line pressure slightly. I'm sure they do it through the PCM because it's quick and easy, but I think our way through valve body mods is better and I hope longer lasting.

It'll be interesting to see if the troubles come back after more miles are on the mods. I hope not. I for one am getting tired of fixing Ford's engineering mistakes for them.....

Yeah IT is pretty amazing to think that with EPC's they can command varying pressures through the computer, but they can. That is also why the FMEM or limp mode has such bone jarring shifts, the computer asks for HIGH pressures. ("Gimmee all you got baby!!...Get Daddy HOME!")

One incentive to leave the set screw alone is that if you go into limp mode, and you already increased the pressure of your EPC, what kind of pressure will you have at this point? It might be extremely high, and could possibly damage something that normally wouldn't have gotten damaged with lower pressure.

Well since the cat's out of the bag.... let me offer this scenario....somoene ups the pressure using the screw.... sells you the vehicle, and you do a chip mod...to ALSO up it. Or... you do it to yourself. An uncontrollable variable you really don't need. I bet virtually NO one who is fooling with their line pressures has a pressure gauge. And remember line is just ONE pressure.

No I am not a fan. Leave the screw alone. You want better pressure? add the superior pressure riser, add Sonnax bore end plugs, upgrade the boost valve, upgrade the pressure regulator valve....Just leave the EPC alone, please ?

AND if you are one those who just CAN'T leave it alone, only do it AFTER you added the FORD EPC overpressure blowoff MOD, ok ?

Good morning all, I'm not sold on this either, just passing along what I'm finding out, hence the "beware" in my last post. If you've got a used vehicle or had it into a trani shop it may have already been done. Take a worse case scenario, your epc gets adjusted, you add a shift kit and then your X gets reprogrammed at Ford or by a performance chip. Is it possible that even a combination of two of these could be a problem? As mentioned, a pressure guage will be the only way to tell.

I too am sick of Ford's lack of initiative to fix this problem. I've been told that on our Tracs, that as of 2003 they have had the updated seperator plate and blow off vavle. People are still having problems with these "updated" VBs, how many years have to go by for them to get this right?

I may just hold off and get one of the completely "re-engineered" VBs that have all the Sonnax mods IE bored out passageways and such. Does anyone have the skinny on those? Lazzman in another thread has a shop installing one, price was ~$300 for the VB with all new solenoids, how the heck can they do it that cheap?

If I ever go into limp mode, I'm taking Viagra :)

Tim

It would be a mis-assumption to approach the rebuilt stock VB with ALL the Sonnax Mod's as a "re-engineered VB". Everything is the same, but the bores that wear will be reamed oversize so that better fitting oversize spools can be added (for the most part - that is a slight oversimplification). The main thing these address is leakage caused by worn bores, that leakage can lead to low pressure at varying points during shifts, leading to flare and other symptoms.

Now, that said, I think those can be valuable additions to an OLD VB, as compared to a simple disassemble/clean/replace approach. It just isn't a "new" or "re-engineered design".

Hopefully tomorrow if I have some free time I will get to call Superior. I am very interested in the line pressure issue. It may play a key role in what is happening to my tranny as well as others.

I have to update my VB progress and it's been about 3k. I get a flare on downshifts from 2nd to first. It only does this at low speeds and half accelleration. Full accelleration is a quick solid shift as are all others. Still feels very strong and I have also increased mpg.

Regards,
Matthew

Wow, looks like we got censored....LOL

***************
Seriously, Matt I'll take you up on that offer. I'm planning on doing it early spring. The plan is to do the Ford updates, Superior kit, new bracket, updated reverse seal and trani pan plug, maybe the Sonnax boost valve. The Sonnax end plugs were mentioned also but I didn't see part numbers or suppliers for them.

I'm going to start ordering the parts within a few weeks. I'll be in touch.

Thanks
Tim
***************

Ok, no prob... :thumbsup:

i just recently bought the trans go shift kit for my 99 explorer sohc v6 before i tear into it are there any parts u recommend replacing and is there any other parts that i need that the kit didnt come with besides the pan gsk and filter. and also i just recently got confused with the tranny do i have the 5r55e or the 4r55e? thanks for your time and help :thumbsup:

You will need valve body gaskets. And you have the 5R55E. Depending on your miles you may wish to consider changing out the EPC.

Ok guys, my tranny is all apart, now I need to get it back together tomorrow.

Here is what I have done:

Ford TSB kit
Sonnax Boost valve
Boost valve spring from Superior kit
Forward engagement control valve spring from Superior kit
Skipped from Superior kit: coast clutch valve, thermo blocker, valve from bore that I put Ford valve in

Still have to do the servos.

Questions:

1st and most important: I failed to keep track of where the bolts go that attach the valve body to the tranny. D'oh! Here is what I have:

16 40mm bolts
4 45mm bolts
4 20mm bolts
2 35mm bolts
1 30mm bolt

I need you guys to tell me where these go, el pronto.

2. Do I still need to drill the sep plate and/or install the pressure riser if I did the Ford TSB kit?

3. Do I replace the big o-ring on the reverse servo with the double lip seal?

4. My two gaskets for the sep plate are different. One has the gasket going all the way around the reverse servo, one does not. I assume that the first one goes between the tranny and the sep plate, and there is no gasket between the reverse servo and its cover plate?

Finally, FYI, I was worried because the metal shafts that are inside the vb and held in by the TCC and one of the shift solenoids fell out, and I was afraid I might have mixed them up. I checked them with my caliper and they are not exactly the same diameter (only differ by 2 or 3 thousandths, but the big one won't go in the small bore) and also will only go in their respective bores one way. BTW, my factory boost valve looked exactly the same as the Sonnax. I could find no differences. I replaced it anyway. One more thing, I accidentally removed the L-shaped retainer that is the farthest north one on Glacier's diagram from the Superior instructions. It was a cast-iron b**** to get back in because you have to move a shaft against a spring through a hole on the bottom side to get the retainer to go in its groove. Lesson learned: Don't remove anything that the instructions don't specifically tell you to remove!

Anyone want to check my reassembly instructions?
Install gaskets and sep plate onto vb with vaseline and torque to spec.
Install vb onto tranny, torque bolts stepwise to spec.
Install reverse servo and cover, torque bolts to spec
Make sure manual valve engages spool
Plug wiring harness into solenoids
Reinstall filter, Bolt up pan and gasket, add fluid, go!

Sam

Let's start with the FORD TSB... did you get the replacement separator plate as called for in the TSB? Assuming you did, you should still drill the holes called for in the Superior instructions.... though I think you will find that one is already resized by FORD.

Next... if you look at the varying thickness of the VB at the boss for each bolt, you will readily see which bolts go where. I'll try and get you a diagram however.... but it is more or less intuitive.

Yes replace the Big Low/Reverse Servo O-ring with the double lip (now I understand they are calling it a double wiper - which is way more accurate) seal from the Superior Kit.

You are correct about the VB gaskets.

Your reassembly procedure is dead bang on.

Make sure the filter has the O-rings in place.

Oh pressure riser. I did not install it, but later found that it's purpose was to give a 5 PSI line rise in normal operation. I might be inclined to install it. Your call.

I am attaching a photo listing the bolt sizes and their respective placement in the VB. Hope this helps.
Rob
98 Explorer XLT

Thank you Robrike!!

No problem. I hope that helps him out. I thought I might have to ask for the same thing when I was doing mine but my template worked. The info could be handy though. I think with that diagram and your diary Chris there is not another ounce of info available. :)
Rob

2. Do I still need to drill the sep plate and/or install the pressure riser if I did the Ford TSB kit? SamRebel, I installed the revised FORD plate, and still had to drill out the holes; I think there were two that had to be enlarged. Check the hole dimensions very carefully and compare with the drill bits included in the Superior kit. (Mine is a 2000 model 5R55E.)

I did not install the pressure riser, but I did install a new EPC solenoid. I also installed the thermo blocker. As Glacier says, these are just judgement calls, and my main goal was to not have to remove the pan again anytime soon.... :). So far, so good. It's been about a year and 14K miles, and it still shifts perfectly.

ROE

Guys, thanks for the responses to my questions. I managed to figure out the places for all of the bolts, like Glacier said. (Thanks anyway Robrike!)However, I couldn't get the snap-rings out of the servo bores, even with Glacier's Ford cover compressing tool. (On the way back to you, Glacier, thanks) I was lying on my back in a puddle of transmission fluid, holding an LED light in my teeth, a mirror in one hand, and a pair of snap ring pliers in the other. I could see that with the pliers' ends in the right angle position, they wouldn't open up wide enough to hook the ends of the snap ring. Also, the Ford tool fit perfectly onto the pan flange for the front servo, but I couldn't figure out how to use it for the back servo. I used a file to make my pliers open up wider, but I couldn't get them wide enough. Even if I had had better pliers, I'm not sure I could have gotten the snap rings out. The access problem is horrendous, even with the heat shield removed. (I just pushed it up out of the way.) Frank, how you got those out with the tranny in the truck with just little screwdrivers is beyond me. You must be a supermechanic or something. Anyway, I left them in, and buttoned everything back up. And... the problem is still there. So I am just going to have to take the truck to somebody who knows what they are doing. One more thing: I could see parts of the bands with the vb off. The front most band would move a little when I pressed on it. I pushed on either end that I could see and I think I verifed that the ends were still connected. I don't know how tight that band is supposed to be, but I could bow it in a little by pressing on it. The rearmost band was extremely tight. Thanks again for everybody's help, and I'll let you guys know what the problem is when I know.

Sam

No problem. I hope that helps him out. I thought I might have to ask for the same thing when I was doing mine but my template worked. The info could be handy though. I think with that diagram and your diary Chris there is not another ounce of info available. :)
Rob

Seriously, that photo is probably one of the top ten for this diary. I think you should send him a mouse pad Glacier.

Do I really need the updated seperator plate? I bought the transgo kit, vb gaskets and the new epc. THanks guys this is an awesome forum.

If you have the Transgo kit, it accomplishes the same thing as the FORD mod, just a little differently, so NO, you do NOT need the upgraded Sep plate.... you will rivet the hole shut in the old one, as opposed to buying a new one without the hole in it.

PS. Thank you for the kind words, and welcome to the Forum!

Okay thanks, wasnt too sure about it. I really appreciate what you and everyone else is doing here Glacier. You guys dont know how much money you guys have saved me from getting my tranny rebuilt. My rig has 185,000 (yes that is correct) I bought brand new in Dec of 2002 and this is the first problem I have had with my truck. I love this truck and was gonna get raped for $2,800 to get my tranny rebuilt, until I decided to look up the symptoms mine was doing and I found this forum. Thank God, now I will only be spending around $200 for parts and I did this myself. Tomorrow I will take it for a long test drive. Again a million thanks.

Let us know if you got it fixed! Feedback is always important on here, we all learn from one another.

And, if this all helped, how about joining us as a member? We'd love to have you! Best $20 you'll ever spend.

And, if this all helped, how about joining us as a member? We'd love to have you! Best $20 you'll ever spend.

I'll second that, plus you get Elite Status!! :D

I have a 2000 w/5R55E and the infammous 2-3 flare. I was soo close to buying a VB from Glaicer, but I paid a grand for an exteneded 100k mile warranty and in theory it was covered. I was scared to do the VB myself, in hindsight that might have been dumb , anyhow, so into the local tranny shop it went. Hey it is free right.....They installed . the Ford updated seprator plate and some parts ( guy said it was a blow off valve) and replaced a blown out reverse servo gasket. Go the truck back and it is worse than eve, . Yikes, do you think they warped /did not torque the VB correctly? The new seperator plate doies not make it slip in2 and 3rd and make shifts total musch does it? Shop is busy and said they can't pull it back apart until end of the week so I have it back for time being. Warranty people say nothing is covered without broken parts...this could be a mess. Can you always see parts/bores/warpage or anyhting that causes the flair?

Well since now that THEY opened it and it's worse, the best advice I can tell you is to be patient and take it back to them. They are now responsible for whatever happens since they were the last hand in the till.

Good luck,
Matt

Seriously, that photo is probably one of the top ten for this diary. I think you should send him a mouse pad Glacier.

Good idea. I have several waiting to go on my next trip to the Post Office......I went last Sat and the line was a mile long with 2 windows open <sheesh>... (yeah I left in a Huff, a 1964 Huff Sedan)....if Robrike sends me a snail mail addy in a PM I'll send him one. The rest of you please be patient.... you'll enjoy the pads....WHEN they get there. I am headed back to Montana (home for me, even though have been gone 30 years) this weekend, maybe I'll mail them there where old style work ethic and small crowds exist.....

Oh and... the things you asked about are not visible easily mnealuf. Let them worry it. My fear is they will tell you that you need a rebuild. You should have replaced the EPC at the same time... ask RunninOnEmpty.

Hey Glacier and everyone else :) Okay ran the truck for about 2 miles and it was lagging to shift. So I punched it and it ran great, firmer shifts and no problem until I slowed down and again it was slipping. I checked the tranny fluid and it did not register anything on the dipstick so I put another quart in ( I had originally put in four). I check dip stick and still nothing. So again I put another. And it barely resgistered on the dipstick. Well here comes the seventh now it seemed it was normal. So after doing the vb upgrade and letting all the trann fluid drain. It took 7 quarts to fill her up, does this sound right? Also I forgot that when I started having problems with this this tranny my o/d light was flashing. Well after I filled her up with 7 quarts she ran great!! No more problems, shifing was alot firmer and more responsive I was a happy camper. But when I stopped to get some gas it smelled like tranny fluid. So I pulled the dipstick and smelled a little burnt and tranny fluid was a little dark. Okay I double check the level and it seemed find. I went to Autzone and borrowed their obd II tool and the only code that came up was p1401 aux emissions control. Well I checked my dmfe (or whatever) sensor and there was no carbon buildup at all. I even clean the metal and egr tube combo. Then went back to Autozone to clear the code. Five minutes later when I got on the freeway the damn o/d kept on flashing. Well I ignored and kept on driving for a few hours with no problems for about 100 plus miles. Well tonight on my way to work I was cruising at 70 and floored her to pass someone when it rev all the way 6,000 rpm and seemed like it was slipping. I let off the gas and got off the freeway. I got out and it smelled really bad like tranny fluid and threre was a bunch of smoke. I let her cool off a bit by shutting the vehicle off and tried to to take off but it was slipping in all gears when i took off and it was not acting right and from then on I took the slow lane to work at 55mph and so far she is acting fine but it really smells horrible like burnt tranny fluid. This is after putting 100 plus miles after the vb mods. What gives? Any ideas? There were no metal shaving or any foreign material when I initially dropped the pan. I check my fluid after I got to work and let her cool off and I pulled the fluid and it smells nasty and dark. Another thing too I have one of those infrared theromometer with a lazer pointer built in (Christms Gift) and I was reading the temps on the tranny lines going into the radiator the top one was 145 F and the bottom was 155 F is this a normal temperature after running the vehicle at idle for a few minutes? I did this when I initially filled her up with 7 quarts and was acting fine. What I was thinking is to drain the fluid and check the pan for any funny stuff and filler her up again and see what happens. What else do you guys think I should? Is the o/d flashing causing something? When I did the vb upgrade I put in a new epc but did not replace any other sensors. Again my vehicle has 185,000 miles on it. Should I replace the TCC solenoid as well when drop the pan again? Thanks guys

I forgot to metioned that I used Mercon V fluid and noting else no additives or anything also I used the fram filter from kragen.

It feels as if my torque converter is not locking up. hmmmm

I moved some threads here to their own separate topic thread. We are starting to use this thread as a general 5R55E problem thread. I am going toclose this thread for a few days so people with problems start their own threads. No offense meant, none taken.

This thread is about rebuilding the 5R55E Valve body only. If you have problems and want help, start a thread and we will try and help you. If you have data or pictures or useful information related to rebuilding the 5R55E Valve body, feel free to post here.

Some have asked for directions on removing the Valve Body from the transmission. Bigg Billy posted a great thread detailing his approach, and here's a link to it:

It is entitled "Stairway to a Diary" and is a great post about someone doing it themselves using this thread as a guide. Adds a lot to the information and comfort level.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154655

ps. the VB Rebuild cured his problems, but they were probably caused by a blown out gasket mainly anyway.

THANK YOU BIGG BILLY !

AND THANK YOU ALL FOR NOT USING THIS THREAD AS A PLACE TO POST YOUR OWN 5R55E VALVE BODY PROBLEMS AND QUESTIONS !!!! I appreciate it.

I just got the Transgo kit in today and see that there are quite a few things that no one here mentions... did they upgrade the kits possibly or are these just insignificant mods?

1. there is a tapered orifice that you install into the 2nd band feed hole in the trans case.

2. They give specific instructions to adjust all the bands.

3. There are some new shims and scarf cut seals for the center support/pump housing.

4. They give you the option of installing both yellow and orange springs for HD applications and harder shifts.

I've read this entire post and didn't see any of this mentioned so I was just throwing it out there.

I think I showed the contents of the Transgo kit early on... everything you describe I think I showed. HOWEVER, since I did not install it, you are correct, I did not discuss usage of the contents at all. If you want to do a photo shoot of your install I will append it to this thread, that would be helpful.

[NOTE: He also send some nice shots of a VB breakdown with part listings and a tabular form of the TSB info, which I inserted into the Diary up front (with attribution). Thanks DONNY !]

I went back and re-read the first few pages and your are correct glacier, you did mention the transgo kit components that I asked about, I just looked over it I guess.

I finally got my kit installed and it didn't go so well at all... I started another thread asking for help so if you have a moment I could really use your help man!

Oh, I'm glad the pics were helpful.

Chris,

I just got off the phone with Transgo and I think I may have found a mistake in the first part of the diary...

The rivet that transgo has you install in the sep. plate has nothing to do with the EPC relief or blowoff. It is part of the forward control "mod" according to the tech. He briefly explained to me that they do this mod just in case the EPC solenoid "hiccups" that it doesn't cause serious issues elsewhere in the trans. He also confirmed that the Ford mod blowoff and sep. plate are totally compatible with the transgo kit.

Just wanted to drop the FYI....

Thanks! That's what I get for assuming. Since I didn't do the transgo kit I should just have kept my mouth shut. I'll go back and fix it. I appreciate the heads up and the info.

Sure thing. Thanks again for all the great help and diary, I couldn't have done this without it!

Ditto, just what they told me. I had that conversation just before buying any other parts. I had the TransGo kit and EPC, and needed to know if any or all of the Ford parts were needed.

It looks like I will need another few weeks to get my 99 driveable. I know that I'm slow, it's tough to work at a friend's house, around their schedule, and work, weather, and commuting. Maybe next month I can contribute by saying what the TransGo kit does alone. Regards,

I just want to say thank you to all who posted here. Especially Glacier991. I had the same problem. Thought I'd do alittle research before having the tranny rebuilt. Came across this great site. Last week end I did the Ford TSB update, Superior shift kit (except the thermal blocker, the bag of red springs and resistor) and a new EPC solenoid and bracket. The thing works great so far. Took most the afternoon and you all saved me a lot of money. So thanks again to all.

Glad we could help. There is a TON of great info here and as many great poeple... from all your savings why not JOIN us... and become an elite explorer... help support what we do.

AND... thank you for the kind words. It is posts like yours that make it all worthwhile. Bravo on your success!

ps. I am starting to have a supply of those little red springs too... but I slowly use them up as I rebuild trannies...

I would like to remove valvebody as a complete unit im not sure wich bolts i should remove to do this all bolts are the same size 2000 explorer 5r55e

Read the entire diary, your answer lies within.

To all of you on here that have contributed information, thank you for your time and efforts, it definetely save me some major headaches.

My story...Back in early October I purchased a 00' Explorer Sport SOHC 4X4 as a winter "beater". Something dependable that could get through the Wisconsin winters that I don't need to be making a payment on. Entire truck is in great shape, was obviously well maintained. I did the normal look and smell of the trans fluid before purchasing, but I purchased it through an auction so there was no chance to drive it on the highway beforehand. I got to drive it around the parking lot and all that but it's tough to hit over 10mph in the lot it was parked in...

Anyways, long story short, about an hour after purchase I realized that the trans was slipping badly between 1-2 and very badly between 3-4, and was overall shifting "slowly". I knew nothing about the 5R55E, but quickly came to learn what the typical repair costs were ($1800...$2200...yikes!)...now my sweet buy was starting to look more like a money pit....

Luckily, I dug around long enough, and the first thing that came up on google when I typed in "5R55E slipping" it directed me roughly here.

I ended up doing a complete valve body replacement, because I couldn't get my trucks symptoms narrowed down to just a 2-3 flare, or any of the others listed, but in general it seemed like a valve body problem. I went with the unit from Transtar industries (mentioned on this post), and did the work myself using the pictures and torque diagrams from this forum...All in all it cost me around $370 for the parts, fluid, and new filter. All problems are fixed, it shifts like new. Unlike one of the posters has mentioned, this unit DOES NOT have all the upgrades (which I wasn't happy about) but it does have all new solenoids, springs, reworked bores, etc. Once I got into my trans, the gasket was probably the entire problem, but since my truck has 110K on it I figured the solenoids were on their last leg based on the information on this site.

I even know a guy (good friend) that owns a transmission repair shop, and he never even mentioned this as a possible fix. He wanted to buy a used one and do a complete replace...for around $1200.

So, THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU.... you have saved me around $1000 already, and kept my relationship with my wife in good financial standing, and have actually gained a lot of confidence in myself as a mechanic. I plan to become a regular visitor to this forum as I discover other nuances of the SOHC Ford Explorer....

Glad we could be of assistance. Consider becoming a supporting member - an Elite. It will help us continue to provide the support we do. Best $20 you could spend.

Question for you guys, read half of the thread so far and got me really excited about rebuilding my transmission myself instead of paying 2000.00 everyone wants to rebuild it or for a new one.

I have a 97 ranger 4.0 automatic 2wd. These kits should work right?
My transmission slips 2-3. Is this called a "Flair"? I will be driving normal, then when it shifts from 2-3 rpms rise and truck slows down, so I am assuming this is a slip correct? Sorry if this sounded ignorant, just wanted to be 100% sure.

Anyways, which kit would be the best for me?

What all should I replace? I know this thread has loads of info, but everyone else has a different vehicle, so I want to be 100% sure.

If this fixes my problem, you dont know how much I love you all. haha.

My truck see's alot of offroad abuse, so Im hoping this might save it a little bit longer as long as Im not TOO hard on it. What is the average cost of adding a tranny cooler?

ANY help is appriciated. THANK!

Truck has 145k miles and has been doing this for the 6months I have had it.

Well... I read the post top to bottom....very happy with the quality of this thread!!!

Looks to me as if the Ford TSB parts were mixed with aftermarket fixes with good to great results. I am going to start with purchasing ONLY the Ford TSB parts (on order as I write this).

I recently purchased a 99 Ranger 3.0 with 2-3 flair and slow reverse. I want to see if the "Ford Fix" cures my problems or if I'll have to include the "aftermarket" fixes as well to cure my problems.

I picked up this truck CHEEEEEEP as it was traded in at our dealership with known trans problems and a missing front bumper. Even if I have to put in a used or reman trans I'll be way ahead of the game and I really like this truck!

I'll also be sure to post the results of my "TSB only" install!

Thanks for the link, Glacier. Interesting reading on the EPC adjustment issue.
And thanks to you Tim, for clarifying it some more. One of these days I'll disassemble my old EPC and see what makes it tick, and see what that adjustment screw actually 'adjusts'.

I've heard or read somewhere that Ford's answer to the 2-3 flare is to re-program the PCM to increase the line pressure slightly. I'm sure they do it through the PCM because it's quick and easy, but I think our way through valve body mods is better and I hope longer lasting.

It'll be interesting to see if the troubles come back after more miles are on the mods. I hope not. I for one am getting tired of fixing Ford's engineering mistakes for them.....

Forgive me for chiming in WAYYY late and for the ridiculous length of this post, but I work for a company that makes transmission solenoids, and I'd like to offer some unsolicited facts and semi-educated opinions on the EPC solenoids used in the 5R55E transmissions. They are made by Bosch, and are what we in the biz call "direct acting" variable force solenoids (VFSs). These have a "motor" section, which has an armature that is preloaded by a spring in the high pressure direction and pulled against the spring by magnetic force that is somewhat proportional to the current flow through the coil. Coupled to the motor they have a hydraulic section, which is a spool valve in a bore. The direct acting label means that the armature pushes directly (mechanically) against the spool. This is in contrast to other varieties of solenoids, such as "two stage" VFSs in which the spool is moved by hydraulic force and the armature only opposes the hydraulic pressure that acts on one end of the spool, but over a small area such that not much FORCE is required. Anyway, in the Bosch direct acting, the force from the armature (spring force minus magnetic force) is opposed (balanced) by the force of the output pressure acting on the other end of the spool, and this "force balance" is achieved by the spool moving to either allow oil flow from the inlet to the output (to increase output pressure) or from the output to "exhaust" (to lower output pressure). If there is no downstream leakage, then the spool moves briefly in one direction to achieve the target pressure and then returns to a point where the spool edges overlap the sleeve windows and there is no flow in either direction. In reality, however, the leakage past the downstream valve requires some level of flow through the solenoid valve to maintain the commanded pressure.

As mentioned above, direct acting solenoids rely on the spring to directly apply force through the armature to the spool valve to move it in the high pressure direction, SOOO if it takes more force to move the spool valve than the spring can deliver, the spool doesn't move and the pressure doesn't go up. AND, since there is such a tight fit between the spool and its bore, any little piece of crap or accumulations of even smaller pieces of crap that wedge in between the spool and its sleeve can bind it up to where it doesn't move smoothly or possibly at all. This, of course, can cause erratic or low pressure output which can result in poor shifts or even clutch slippage to the point destruction.

Now is a good time to mention (although it's been mentioned in other locations on this board) that the 5R55 transmission is fully adaptive, which means that the computer tries to control shift timing (feel) using feedback from the speed sensors (input and output) to determine how long the clutches are slipping during a shift. If there is too much slippage (soft shift or maybe even flare), the computer will command more pressure for the next time, and if there is too little slippage (hard shift), then the computer will command less pressure next time. These adjustments are stored in memory for the various discrete levels of engine torque so that shift feel is targeted to what the calibrator feels is appropriate for the whole range of speed and torque conditions. This means that, within limits, making adjustments to the EPC pressure output either by adjusting the screw at the back or by installing resistors, etc., will not affect long term shift feel since the computer will compensate for the changes in order to get shifts back to their "ideal" timing. AND THIS is why it would make sense that Ford's fix for the 2-3 shift flare is to flash the computer... what they are doing, most likely, is programming a different, shorter "ideal" shift timing for the 2-3 upshift at the problem torque levels. Of course, if there are other mechanical issues at fault as well, then this by itself is not likely to cure all symptoms.

Which brings us back to the design of the EPC:rolleyes: ... as mentioned, the device is inherently weak due to the fact that the only force available to push the spool in a direction to increase the pressure comes from the armature spring, which itself must be relatively weak so that it can be overcome by magnetic force so that the output pressure can be varied over its working range (like 90psi to 0psi) as directed by the computer. And this weakness means that the part is going to be sensitive to contaminants that obstruct the smooth motion of the spool as well as any extra friction that might come from the surface of the spool bore being marred up over time. The spool itself is "anodized" which puts a very hard and wear resistant coating on the aluminum. On the other hand, two stage solenoids, such as the one used in the 4R70W (AODE) transmission, are quite robust against these issues since there is considerable hydraulic force available to move the spool through any contaminants that might build up around it, and the armature only has to act against the small force of hydraulic pressure coming through a small area (the poppet). This design comes with the compromise of higher "inlet pressure sensitivity (how much the output pressure changes as a result of supply pressure changes) and some built in leakage (usually not significant), but transmissions like the GM 4L60E and 4L80E and the Ford 4R70W/4R75 (and the CD4E) use this style and they really don't have any EPC wear issues.

Why bring all this up. Well, aside from the reason that some may find it interesting, I also happen to be working on an aftermarket EPC for the 4R/5R55 transmissions that happens to be a two stage type device... i.e., I'll probably be trying to sell these someday. :)

Thanks for a tremendously informative post! It's always a treat to get some really deep knowledge on a specific issue,and your post above on the 5R55 EPC certainly fits that bill. I'll be re-reading it many times I'm sure. A Q. Is the same design (VFS) incorporated into the EPC in the "solenoid blocks" used in the W/S and N series of the 5R55? Based on failure rate I am going to assume so.

ps. I'll be your first customer.

Interesting yes, but it brings a question to mind. I know that the first 5R55E has little PCM adaptive control, but the later 2002+ models have greater PCM control. How much difference is there, and is it worth having, or obtaining?

I'd still rather have AWD in my 99 Explorer, but that would require a 2002+ 5R55E and AWD, plus the 2002+ PCM, harness, etc. Too much work for now. Regards,

The solenoid blocks in the 5R55 variants use EPC solenoids that are very similar to the ones used in the 5R55E in that they are direct acting and I think most of the "motor" design is the same. Some minor differences are that the block solenoids use o-rings to seal in their bores, and of course the connectors are redesigned to accomodate different plug styles.

As a footnote to my earlier post, I just read an article specifically about the 2-3 flare issue in the 5R55E which said it's the result of the OD band beginning to slip before the intermediate band applies firmly enough, so the Ford programming fix is probably more involved than just specifying a shorter ideal shift time.

From what I understand of how transmissions that use "clutch to clutch" shifting* work, the task of releasing one clutch while applying another is usually done with solenoids that can vary the pressure to the clutches (PWM or other styles of variable pressure solenoids) rather than with ON-OFF type solenoids. If anyone can direct me to a source of more information on the strategy the 5R55 uses to balance between bind-ups and horrible flares, I'd be very interested in reading that.

*applying one clutch while releasing another instead of keeping the lower range clutch applied and letting a one way clutch resolve the ratio disagreement that would otherwise cause a bind-up.

Interesting yes, but it brings a question to mind. I know that the first 5R55E has little PCM adaptive control, but the later 2002+ models have greater PCM control. How much difference is there, and is it worth having, or obtaining?

I'd still rather have AWD in my 99 Explorer, but that would require a 2002+ 5R55E and AWD, plus the 2002+ PCM, harness, etc. Too much work for now. Regards,

I don't know much at all about the evolution of the 5R55... I recall seeing another post mentioning the addition of another speed sensor (ISS) at some point, and that may have something to do with the answer to your question, but I'd only be guessing at this point. As for the task of updating a transmission's hardware and software to a later level... I've never personally loved a car so much that I've been willing to pioneer anything like that. But if it were something more than a few people agreed would be worthwhile, there'd probably be some aftermarket company offering a DIY kit for the update.

This thread (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157488) is probably the one you are referring to about the extra sensor.

It is my understanding that the Shift solenoids in the 5R are mainly just on off types. I'd like to know if that is not correct. I think the only solenoids what modulate or regulate pressures ate the TCC and EPC.

It is my understanding that the Shift solenoids in the 5R are mainly just on off types. I'd like to know if that is not ocrrect. I think the only solenoids what modulate or regulate pressures ate the TCC and EPC.

You're right about the 5R55 having on-off types for shifting. That's why I'm interested in learning more about Ford's strategy for the 2-3 upshift in those transmissions. How do they do it with just one line pressure control and some On-Offs when most everyone else (that I know about) uses variable solenoids to control the release of one clutch during the apply of another in a clutch to clutch shift??? [:thumbdwn: wrongo!... see edit below]. Chrysler uses PWM solenoids (for the modules we presently sell), and some of the newer transmissions use other kinds of variable force solenoids (e.g., we're presently working on a control module for the upcoming Ford 6F-Mid transmission that will use "low-leak variable bleed solenoids").

I'll post some photos of sectioned 5R55 solenoids that some others in our company have prepared.

EDIT: Apparently, the synchronized release of one element during the apply of another for a shift is not as rare as I was led to believe... the 2-3 upshift in the GM 4L60E (not many of those out there :confused: ) is done by releasing the 2-4 band while applying the 3-4 clutch, and that's done with on-off solenoids too.

So debris is clogging the EPC and contributing to the 2-3 flare?

I'm wondering if an external ATF filter would help in this regard?

BTW, I have about 36K on the flare fix and it's still shifting fine. (I installed the Ford separator plate/valve kit, Superior shift kit, and new EPC.)

So debris is clogging the EPC and contributing to the 2-3 flare?

I'm wondering if an external ATF filter would help in this regard?

BTW, I have about 36K on the flare fix and it's still shifting fine. (I installed the Ford separator plate/valve kit, Superior shift kit, and new EPC.)

I'm hesitant to state specific cause and effect relationships without knowing more about the particular application, but in general, contaminants can be driven (by pressure differentials) into the clearances between spools and their bores such that they interfere with smooth motion of the spool either by directly binding the part or by degrading the surface finish of the sleeve and/or the spool over time such that the friction would be higher even if the contaminants were removed. Once the friction is high enough to slow or stop the spool from moving where it needs to for the output pressure to respond correctly, all the bad things that result from incorrect pressures can happen.

Being that a smooth 2-3 upshift in the 5R55 is a neat trick under the best conditions, I think the probability of a 2-3 flare would probably be increased by the poor pressure control that might result from an EPC that is impaired by contamination or wear.

In my opinion, one of those magnetic in-line filters (like from SPX Filtran or Magnefine) is good insurance for any transmission that has solenoids that are not exceedingly robust against contamination. In fact, I believe one of our OE customers intends to use a filter from one of those companies to guard the operation of the solenoids in an upcoming 6 speed. And if I had a vehicle that had a sensitive solenoid, I'd probably get one for my transmission.

Very glad to hear that your transmission is doing well :thumbsup: . Tranny problems give me a stomach-ache.

If interested, here is a link to an image of a sectioned (and mounted in Gloopstick) Bosch EPC from a 5R55 module.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=54525

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=54526

...and here is a better one with some labeling of the subcomponents.

I'm going to link these pictures below to make it easier to view. Thanks for the pictures Allbert!
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/266781view_of_sectioned_5R55_module_EPC.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/266781view_of_sectioned_Bosch_EPC_from_5R55_module_with_notes.jpg

To help with a little bit of the confusion as to what "fixes" the 2-3 flare, I'm going to do the Ford TSB and the Superior Kit to my 5R55E, which is experiencing the flare. I will wait to do the EPC, to see if it actually needs it. Hopefully I'll be able to do this next week, and report back to you guys and let you know how it goes. I'll be sure to take pics to add to this diary.

Anyway, I was just on FPN, and was a little confused. I went to order a filter and gasket, but they don't show the part #'s, and they didn't ask if I have the 5R55E, it just asked 4x4 or 4x2. Maybe all 4x2 Ex's have the 5R, I dont know... Anyway, here is my parts list as of right now, can someone correct me if I'm wrong? THat would be great.

I have a 2000 Explorer Sport, 4.0L OHV. 5R55E.

Valve Body Service Kit - 3L5Z-7M203-JA
Revized Bracket - XL2Z-7L491-AA (taken from Glacier's pic)
Vavle Body Seperator Plate - 1L5Z-7Z490-GA
Superior Shift Kit - K4R/5R55E
EPC Solenoid - XL2Z7G383AA
IIRC, the pan gasket and filter were about $30 from FPN
And then the Mercon V to fill it up.

Those are the part #'s I have gathered throughout this thread. I'm hoping that without doing the EPC, the problem will be solved, but if not then I'll just have to get more fluid and drop the pan. Hopefully doing it this way will help others. Any input on the part #'s would be appreciated.

Mr Whoathere, I have the exact same year, model, engine, and maybe color (Medium Wedgewood Blue).:D I had the exact same flare, and replaced the exact same parts you have listed. According to my old parts invoices, your parts numbers are all:

[B]CORRECT[B]

I did this fix about 3 years ago, when not much info was available on it, replacing everything including the sol bracket and EPC. I did NOT want to pull the pan again, so I threw every part I had available in it (All those on your list). These fixed the flare, and I've had about 40K miles of trouble-free shifting since.

I omitted some of the Superior kit parts; using only the ones that were valve-body related. I omitted the 'Pressure Riser'. I also poured a bottle of LubeGard RED in it.

The difference in the filters (4x4 vs 2x4) is that the 4x4 uses an extension to fit the filter to the deeper 4x4 pan.

I didn't have the time nor inclination to experiment with mine to see which part cured the flare, so it'll be interesting to see if the EPC affects the flare in yours.

GOOD LUCK!
ROE

So, does the gasket come with the seperator plate, or the service kit? Or do I need to order that as well. I'm finally getting around to this, need to sell the X now that I have my 5.0 AWD mounty! Anyway, do I also need to order a gasket or no?

This a 00 5R55E SOHC ? If so the gaskets come "bonded" to the plate.

Now there was a DUH moment, it says right under your post in your sig it is OHV. Answer is the same. Sorry.

You can also try www.transmissionpartsUSA.com or www. FastPartsNetwork.com. I like Torrie and try and send as many folks his way as I can.

Its an OHV...

And why is FPN so bloody hard to navigate? I tried to find my pan gasket and filter, but instead of having 5R55E, it has 5R55w/s. What does that mean, and is it the same thing?

Those are the newer models with the unitary case (bellhousing is connected to the case as opposed to being separate, and bolted on).

well, FPN lists that as the only option other than the 4R55E and the 4R70W. So will that kit work for me as well? If you look under 2000 Ford Explorer, then Maintenance -> Transmissions -> Automatic Transmission -> Pan Gasket... it says that it is the filter, pan gasket and o rings, and then it says for the A4LD Only... This makes me confused??? All I have left to order is the pan gasket and the filter. and the fluid, any recommendations?

The filter you want is made by Fram. Any auto parts house that carries FRAM will carry one, and it comes with a pan gasket inside the box. Your old one can usually be reused. Just clean the mating surface carefully and make sure the old gasket and the mating surfaces are clean and dry before putting it back on.

Hi, the information you guys give is just tremendous. I would like to get the VB upgrade that you guys have been talking about. I have a 96 XLT 6 cyc 4 wd AT. It has 115 K miles and is starting to flare when I go into 3 rd gear. I am a little intimidated by the thought of going into a transmission. Do you have any suggestions as far as finding a good mechanic that would do the mods.
Fbbeale also suggested getting the servos redone also. I am within an hour of Brooklyn, if BrooklynBay knows anyone good mechanics.Thanks.

Welcome to this forum! It's very hard to find a shop around here which will only do a valve body rebuild. Everybody wants to rebuild the entire transmission. I would suggest that you follow the guidelines in this diary, and try it on your own. Many people have been intimidated at first, but have succeeded in the end.

Thanks for the encouragement. I feel I could probably do the VB kit but I think I would have trouble with the Servos. I saw in the thread that ffeable said he loosened the pressure on the Bands and then was able to push in the servo cover and get the clip out . Could you elaborate on that a little.

I have a pretty liberal junk yard near me where I can probably get access to an old transmission and play around with the servos.Thanks

Servos on an installed tranny are not something I recommend you try first time out. MAJOR pita with limited clearance.

Does any one know how to get the TSB bulletins ?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159058

Servo covers are resistant to inward motion by a large spring under the cover. I doubt loosening the bands would give much if any assist in overcoming the spring resistance. Ingenious folks have come up with many ways of removing them, but I have the luxury of the FORD tool with the tranny easily accessible on a bench when I remove tjhem, and they can STILL be a PITA.

I rarely pay anyone to do something I can do myself. This might be one of those I would happily pay some fool to do for me, in vehicle.

Servo covers are resistant to inward motion by a large spring under the cover. I doubt loosening the bands would give much if any assist in overcoming the spring resistance. Ingenious folks have come up with many ways of removing them, but I have the luxury of the FORD tool with the tranny easily accessible on a bench when I remove tjhem, and they can STILL be a PITA.

I rarely pay anyone to do something I can do myself. This might be one of those I would happily pay some fool to do for me, in vehicle.

Hmmm...I thought I would get around to installing that excellent valve body you built for me, and I figured I would change the servos also. I have a Rotunda tool kit which has the tool...maybe not?

If you have the C-3 tool set by rotunda you have that tool. It bolts onto the pan rail and has a U shaped piece that loops up onto the middle of the servo cover... by tightening a bolt it pushes the cap inward. The A4LD Rebuild Diary has pictures of it in use.

If you have the C-3 tool set by rotunda you have that tool. It bolts onto the pan rail and has a U shaped piece that loops up onto the middle of the servo cover... by tightening a bolt it pushes the cap inward. The A4LD Rebuild Diary has pictures of it in use.

Thank you. Did I see on a thread that you are from Montana?

Yes.

Ok. I've read this thread over and over. I have a Transgo kit with gaskets and a new EPC solenoid on the way to me. Is there anything I am missing? Should I include anything else? And of course I'll get the fluid and filter.

My trans issue: My wife drives the car so I don't have a lot of experience driving it but this is what I notice. On real cold mornings there is a very slight delay when I put it in reverse to back up. When I put it in D I have to wait for several seconds before I get engagement. Once warmed up the problem dissapears.

You could get the Viton "D" ring kit for the low/reverse servo. I think the gaskets are your problem. Make sure that you use an In/Lb torque wrench on the valve body bolts.

You could get the Viton "D" ring kit for the low/reverse servo. I think the gaskets are your problem. Make sure that you use an In/Lb torque wrench on the valve body bolts.

Thanks for the input. I have an in-lb torque wrench and I forgot to mention that I also got the new revised solenoid bracket. I will take a look at the Viton "D" ring kit.

What about the FORD mod and the new separator plate discussed on page 1 ?

What about the FORD mod and the new separator plate discussed on page 1 ?


The way I understand it is that if you use the Transgo kit, the Ford mod was not needed. I asked my local Ford dealer about the new seperator plate with bonded gaskets and he couldn't find it listed.*? Hopefully you can enlighten me. Thanks.

the first page lists the plate you need. The earlier models did not get bonded gaskets unfortunately. I understand that Transgo claims their kit eliminates the need for the FORD mod and frankly, being the quality outfit they are I am sure they are right. If you choose that route, I'm sure you will do fine. Just get NEW gaskets !

I cannot tell you why, but in this situation I was more comfortable with the Superior kit and the FORD mods... but i will also tell you straight up that Transgo is a quality company with smart guys. Do their kit and let us know how it goes! (In other trannies I sometimes prefer the transgo kit over the superior, so I have no favoritism - I like both companies)

Chris, I don't recall if I posted my review of my TransGo kit result. My reality though is that my truck was untested and undriven before doing any work. I bought it wrecked.

I don't have any symptoms or complaints about my results, it may be identical as before the valve body kit. My issue is likely the same as for any Explorer V6 transmission, they have soft shifts. These in my 5R55E feel similar to my 93 A4LD. I prefer positive shifts, somewhat firm, but not harsh at all. I like shifting to become firmer with more throttle pressure, not hard at all throttle settings.

The V8 AOD's all receive excellent positive shifts from the TransGo system correction kits. I was actually hoping for that same feel, thus I'm disappointed. What are the chances of finding significant improvements by buying a flasher and altering the shifting with those? Regards,

Don... I have little, well virtually no, experience with altering the PCM programming insofar as transmission shifts go. I understand it could be possible to up EPC commanded pressures, and shift timing and effect the shift feel or result as a consequence.

Remember too that in 2001 (maybe even earlier) FORD started programming some slip into shift lockups to "soften" the "experience" - they called it "Shift Adaptive Pressure Control Stategy". Getting rid of that alone would probably firm up shifts, if you had a vehicle that utilized that.

But my direct answer, I dunno.

Thanks Chris, I figured that it will be an opinion question for those who have the flashers on a SOHC. I think that the adaptive stuff started with the new type of PCM, the next generation past OBDII. I think that it started with the new body style, and possibly the 2002 Sport Trac and Sport as well. The 5R55E main case changed in the 2002 4door models, and I'm not sure that the change happened on Sports and Sport Tracs also then. Regards,

Hey all, last week or the week before I was driving to work and my OD light started flashing and then the transmission started shifting horribly. Since I've been referring to explorerforum.com for quite some time now, I thought maybe I'd check out if anyone else was experiencing this flashing OD light problem. And sure enough, tons of people had, and to my discouragement, many said that this means that your transmission is a pile of crap and you have to shell out $1000's to have the tranny shop rebuild it or drop in a pre-rebuilt one. So I checked the other symptoms of a "pile of crap" transmission, and I didn't have any (flakes of metal in the fluid, burnt smelling fluid, no fluid...etc). My transmission was working great (well except for the 2-3 flare which I never really realized was a problem) until something fairly instantaneous happened. So I dug deeper, and finally figured out what transmission I had, and then found this rebuild diary (I have a 2000 XLT, 4.0L SOHC). Upon reading all of the stuff in this diary, it seemed like diving into the transmission before going to the shop could be worth a savings of tons of $. I'm a big fan of DIY as I try to avoid the mechanic as much as possible since I seem to get screwed every time I go to one.

Anyways, I followed this guide, ordered the EPC solenoid, the Ford blowoff valve kit, the revised solenoid bracket, and the Ford separator plate (I did not get the Superior or the Transgo shift kit). A day later the parts I needed were @ the dealer (I also got the intake manifold gasket set as I'm having the rough idle cold start problem as well). That day I took the guts out of the transmission. Surprisingly, everything looked really nice inside. There wasn't any gunky buildup of crap in the bottom of the pan, just a light covering of metal dust (the magnet had a bit more on it, but nothing compared to what I was expecting, a pile of crap tranny). After that I took the valve body out of the transmission, I brought it inside and looked at it for a while before attempting to do anything with it. I was super careful not to disturb the thing at all. I took the solenoid bracket off and the EPC solenoid popped out and one of the shift solenoids fell out too. The old EPC solenoid looked nice and clean and there wasn't any gunk on it or anything, which was a disappointment. However, once I looked @ the shift solenoid that fell out, I was kinda happy cause I found that one of the O rings wasn't an O ring anymore, it was shaped more like an S curve. Somehow the O ring broke. The other O ring on the solenoid was out of it's...O ring "track" as well. So then I looked at the solenoid plate, and sure enough, for that solenoid, the little clippy-thing that holds the solenoid in place was bent back allowing the solenoid to come part way out of its bore. So I'm guessing that after a while the somewhat sharp edges of the valve body bore sliced the outermost O ring and....somehow the other O ring came out of it's "track". Lastly, I removed the separator plate and it looks like someone already did the Ford blowoff valve and separator plate. However, the plate I removed was bowed (maybe from mounting bolt stresses???), and the blowoff valve wasn't the revised Ford one. In the kit I got from Ford, it said to make sure the blowoff valve had a dimple in it's face. The one in my valve body did not have this dimple. Otherwise it was identical (at least as far as I could tell) to the valve I bought. So needless to say, I slapped on the new separator plate and put in the new valve. Oh yeah, the EPC screen and the silver valve/spring were not present in my valve body, again probably confirming that someone already did the Ford fix.

I replaced the shift solenoid as it didn't seem like it was going to be possible to go to Ford and get some dumb O ring for the solenoid. I got some $20 from transmissionpartsusa.com, but when I got the thing, I was rather disappointed with the quality of the 3rd party shift solenoid. It just seemed cheesy compared to the Bosch one I took out. The dealer did want $60 for the solenoid though. Oh well, so I put the cheese solenoid in. Now comes the fun part, putting back in a crap load of valve body bolts. Since I tried to use the diagram Robrike posted a while back for keeping track of which bolts went where, I had a bit of a problem: The bolts I was taking out were not matching up to the lengths that the diagram showed. So I looked at Glacier's post about figuring out which bolts went where, but I didn't exactly want to do that either. I looked on my service manual dvd I snagged off fordcds.com and I found what is in my opinion a much better set of diagrams that showed exactly where each length of bolt went. I have not compared the Ford diagrams w/ the one Robrike posted, but I'm thinking that diagram is incorrect (but then again in most cases I can never trust a mechanic to do anything right so maybe someone else just put the wrong bolts in the wrong holes in the valve body). I do know that the Ford diagrams are correct as the length bolts I was placing into the valve body corresponded to the height of the bolt hole's boss.

So finally I got the whole thing back together w/ a new shift solenoid (the one closest to the TCC), a new blowoff valve, a new separator plate, a new EPC solenoid, a new filter, and a new pan gasket. Oh also of note, I removed around 8 quarts of fluid during this entire process, not counting the amount that soaked into my shirt sleeve, my pants, old rags, and not counting any left over in my collection pan. So I put a bunch of fluid back in (about 6 quarts), started it up, added a 7th, and drove around. Everything now works great! There's no shift flare, no flashing OD light, and no other shift problems.

Basically this whole post is here thanking all you guys (or girls) on here who have posted all this information (along w/ awesome photos), and have willingly given help to those that needed it. You all have instilled courage in me to try and do this job as to me this is a risky task. It's definitely a bit trickier to do than changing brake pads and rotors or even wheel bearings and upper ball joints. So...thank you all again!!

ps-if you want Glacier, I could post a pdf of the thing from the Ford service manual dvd (unless that's against the rules of the forum). If nothing else, it gives a nice list w/ diagrams on how to put the valve body and whatnot back into the transmission. Plus it gives torque amounts for all the bolts except the gold bolts that hold the solenoid brackets on.

Andy

A PDF would be a good idea, but it could only be posted if either you get an elite membership, or if you post it on another site, and link it here. How many kilobytes is the PDF? This site has a low 97.7 kb limit which I hope they would increase.

A PDF would be a good idea, but it could only be posted if either you get an elite membership, or if you post it on another site, and link it here. How many kilobytes is the PDF? This site has a low 97.7 kb limit which I hope they would increase.

I dunno, I haven't made it yet ;). I was mostly curious to see if it might actually be helpful to someone. I can post it on my webserver for now, but there's no guarantee as to its availability and whatnot. So it would be better if it was posted here (and now knowing I can't do it @ this point in time, someone else would have to). I'll make the pdf tonight when I get home and I'll try and get it less than the 97.7KB, or maybe I could break it up a little.

Andy

Someone also posted that Ford Parts Network (a site sponsor and good place to get FORD parts) had the kit for about $14 and the sep plate for a like amount. Didn't mention gaskets...


I am a little confused on these parts. What is the difference between the different seperator plates for the model years and engines? I am still trying to find out from my local dealer if the 97 seperator plate has the bonded gaskets. They don't seem to know. Are all the 5R55E valve bodies the same?

I don't believe that the 97 had bonded gaskets. For all practical purposes the castings are the same. Calibrations may have varied between models. The TSB should help guide you to order gaskets if they are needed.

I don't believe that the 97 had bonded gaskets. For all practical purposes the castings are the same. Calibrations may have varied between models. The TSB should help guide you to order gaskets if they are needed.


I purchased gaskets from transmissionpartsusa. The reason I am asking these questions is because I purchased a valve body thinking I can install the transgo kit on this one and making a simple swap on my trans to reduce down time. It also gives me a backup in case I screw something up. So I think my question boils down to the valve bodies being the same with the exception of the seperator plates. If so, I can just order a new seperator plate for a my 97.

IF you are doing the FORD MOD, you MUST USE THE NEW SEPARATOR PLATE. I do not recommend you purchase gaskets from anyone but FORD. If you do not need to do the FORD MOD in the TSB, your old separator plate and the proper gaskets for it from FORD will be fine. I like TrasnsmissionpartsUSA, but I do not buy VB gaskets from them.

I have the Transgo kit but am thinking more and more that maybe I should just do the Ford TSB fix with the reverse servo D-Ring kit.

I'm still good with my 99 5R55E and the TransGo kit. I'm still wishing we could get solid shifts like the AOD's, but this is as good as my 93 A4LD, and it would have lasted a long time. I'll get a flasher later this Spring and do what can be done with it, plus change fluid again, maybe add another cooler/filter.

Here's the pdfs:

http://batman.homelinux.com/images/valve_body.pdf <-- this is the full pdf
http://batman.homelinux.com/images/valve_body1.pdf <--pages 1-2
http://batman.homelinux.com/images/valve_body2.pdf <--pages 3-4
http://batman.homelinux.com/images/valve_body3.pdf <--pages 5-6
http://batman.homelinux.com/images/valve_body4.pdf <--pages 7-8
http://batman.homelinux.com/images/valve_body5.pdf <--pages 9-10

I hope someone finds these helpful.

Andy

Thanks for taking the time to upload those diagrams!

Found an excellent description of the Ford TSB mod on the Ford forum. Pretty much what we all read here. Has some good photos.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0/343/article/Common_Fix_For_4r55e__5r55e_Transmissions_With_A_B%20%20ad_Separator_Plate_And_Valve_Body_Gasket.htm l

IF you are doing the FORD MOD, you MUST USE THE NEW SEPARATOR PLATE. I do not recommend you purchase gaskets from anyone but FORD. If you do not need to do the FORD MOD in the TSB, your old separator plate and the proper gaskets for it from FORD will be fine. I like TrasnsmissionpartsUSA, but I do not buy VB gaskets from them.

I plan to do the mod this weekend. I have a valve body from a 98 Explorer that appears to be in great shape. My Explorer is a 97. Can I do the mod (Transgo or Ford TSB) on the 98 VB with a new 97 seperator plate I bought from Ford or is their a difference in the VB themselves?

The valve body is the key component in an automatic. If it is compatible, I'd bet so(the rest of the trans is likely the same year to year 97-01), then consider it to be basically a 98 model trans. Use the 1998 model separator plate for the 98 valve body.

I like Transgo in their ability to correct factory issues without various different versions. Good luck,

If it is compatible, I'd bet so(the rest of the trans is likely the same year to year 97-01), then consider it to be basically a 98 model trans. Use the 1998 model separator plate for the 98 valve body.


You may be right but I'm going to make some phone calls to be sure. I don't want to make any mistakes. I compared the new 97 seperator plate to the 98 and they are exactly the same except for a hole that is slightly offset from each other over an open slot and the 98 has an extra hole which is the one that is eliminated in the tsb. In any event I have everything I need to do the transgo or the Ford change.

I've completed the transgo kit and reinstalled the VB. I used the Reverse Servo D-Ring Kit and I'm not sure how far I need to press the reverse serv back up in to the valve body. When I removed it, it was very loose and just fell out so now I'm confused on just how far to push it in. Can anyone enlighten me?

Just push it in enough to get the cover on.... there is no right or wrong.

Well the Transgo kit is done. Shifting is definately much better with no slipping. It's like driving a different car. When I jump on the gas it kicks into a lower gear and does what I expect it to do. Prior to installing the Transgo kit, it just seemed to mush along and I couldn't hardly tell if it shifted gears. I doubt that the weather will get cold enough again to check the delayed shift into Reverse and especially Drive. I'd be willing to bet that the reverse servo D-ring kit would have fixed that issue by itself.

I used the 98 VB and just used the Transgo kit with the original seperator plate so it looks like I have an extra new seperator plate and the Ford TSB kit left over. I also installed a new EPC solenoid and the reverse servo D-Ring kit. The D-Ring kit is a very tight fit when reinstalled in the VB. Even after buying all the extras I still saved a bundle from the dealer cost of the Ford mod.

Thanks to all of you that answered my guestions. Your help has been invaluable.

Well guys, it's about time I checked back into this thread... Today is the day! I'm gonna eat breakfast and head to the garage to begin tearing my 5R55E down, and fix my flare. Just in case nobody remembers, I'm doing the Ford TSB and the Superior Shift Kit, I'm not going to replace the EPC, so we'll see how it goes. I'll report back in a few hours, hopefully with good news

Well, so far so good... We got the pan out and the VB dropped... "Baths" 1&2 were enjoyable to say the least... I don't consider it much of a bath, it's more like someone pissing ATF on you throughout the entire process... There were three or four occasions in which I was spitting it out... Anyway, the good- The gasket was blown almost identically to someone else's post...around page 7... The piece that was blown by the TCC and shift solenoid was bad.. I'll post the pics later. The Ford Mod has been done, as well as the superior shift kit. Reassembly slated for tomorrow as I have to go to work now. I'll post my pics later.

PS the smell of really old ATF is nausiating and it's become my natural scent for the time being.

OK, so here's where we got today...

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l105/cwin34/VB1.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l105/cwin34/VB2.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l105/cwin34/VB3.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l105/cwin34/VB4.jpg

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l105/cwin34/VB5.jpg

I'll let you guys know tomorrow how it turns out after I take it for a spin..

Great pics! Can't wait to hear the end results...

Well, it's all put back together... The good: slow reverse problem solved. The bad: still experiencing the 2-3 flare. Seeing as how there was a small chance of having to take it back apart... All we did was he upgraded sep. plate and the Ford mod. Next on the agenda is the EPC solenoid, if that doesnt fix it, then we'll do the superior shift kit. Now, if all of this doesn't fix it, we'll be taking the easy way out and just pushing it off a cliff. I'll report back next weekend with some more updates.

Thought I'd revive this thread with one last question. Are the alignment tools called out in the manual for VB and separator plate reassembly needed?

Thanks

If you put the gasket onto the sep plate using vaseline,,, and put a bolt thru and engage it carefully, and then a 2nd one... no. you can do it without the alignment pins... they just make it easier and more foolproof.

I hope to get the plate with the bonded gasket. Would that be similar?
A little vaseline on the gasket between the VB and the plate instead.
Thanks Again!

I asked that last question before I took a moment to think.
The bonded gasket resolves any alignment issue, correct?

The gasket can't move if it's bonded to the separator plate.

The gasket can't move if it's bonded to the separator plate.

Right, I initially had it in my head that the alignment between the plate and the VB was the most important. ie. the separator plate had holes substantially larger than the bolts themselves an you needed the alignment tools too "center" the plate on the VB. But after I thought about "Glacier991" reply I came to realize it must be to help keep the gasket properly located.


Thanks

Glacier... you should offer a weekend hands on sometime... I'd show up for sure. My 95 shifts hard from 1st to 2nd when I let up. But there's no way I'm gonna take it out and tinker for "feel".

Thanks for all of your great posts!

Thanks for the kind words!

Hi yall... new here because i just found this site. got a 95 ford explorer with a bgad transmission. didnt want to pay the 1500-1700 a trans shop wanted for the rebuild so i decided to go with it myself.
Foound this site and was convinced i could do it myself. got the thing all apart and all put together with many referrels to this site, which weas mucho help in what i did, repolaced the bgands insid and the clutch packs but decided not to do any of the olonids or the tcc or the other one either a sthey are easy to get to once the trans is bacfk in the truck.

i filled the trans with mercon V and started it up and lo and behold tghe wheels turned.....got it off the jack stands and drove it around the block...

the problem is, it will go into reverse but not drive, if i start out in 2, then put in drive its ok with lots of flare between shifts. i am sure its something in the VB so i am thinking of getting a rebuilt valvebody with all the new stuff in it, as it will cost the same or even less than buying the tpc , tcc, and the other 4.

what are your thoughts on my thinking??


you guys are great and i have found much useful information her and i will be commiing back many times in the future............

thanks again

Your thinking is sound.

Agreed Chris, I prefer to keep a valvebody if possible, but a burned up trans a whole different story. For the right price a rebuilt VB is a good choice.

If you are interested in getting your valve body tested or rebuilt, then check this link: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186456

hi yall..... just to let you know....I got the rebuilt VB and put it in today. it works great.. shifts all the way thru all gears with no slippage that I can tell, got it from Transstar and the guy there told me it had all the upgrades so for me it was much easier and cheaper too to go this way.309.00 it would have cost a little more than that just to get the 6 elect valves just by themselves. I also got a new internal wiring harness for the solenoids as I just didn't want to test it and it was right there and easy to change. why maybe have to go back in for that when it is right there.,.
To avoid the fluid bath at the beginning, jacked up and put on jack stands just the front of the truck, put some tinfoil all along the lower edge of the oil pan and then did the leave all but 2 bolts in on the high end of the Trans. it worked great, only a few drips to the garage floor and none on me.

when I went to install the new VB, the gasket wasn't bonded but I found no problem in installing it and there were no worries about slippage of the gasket, torque all the bolts, put on the pan, refilled with fluid...and IT WORKS..oh my......amazing things happen when you decide to do it yourself.



now all I have to do is change the ball joints......complete brake job with changing the rotors and I may have something I can drive.......

this site has been a great help and I just want to say thanks again for all your posts that I read........

Hi all... I've been following this thread for some time, lots of good knowledge saved here. I finally went into my 2001 Ranger 3.0L 5R44E (57K) trannie last weekend. Had a 1-2 flare, but it also felt sluggish and inconsistent. I did the Ford TSB and some of the Superior kit. Replaced the EPC, SS3, bracket and went with the bonded separator plate.
It's much improved, all shift points are more consistent, however there is still a bit of 1-2 flare. I was confused about the superior parts combining with the Ford TSB in bore 207 so I decided to do only the Ford mod and not the superior mod. I also did not do the resistor add-on. The superior instructions were at bit sketchy in the bore 207 area. The superior spring seemed much weaker than the original and the spool moved in the bore much more easily than the original parts (because the original spring was much stronger). In hindsight I wonder if the superior mod in bore 207 would have improved the 1-2 flare. I also checked the front band adjustment and it was ok.
FYI - I hung a big trash bag under the pan to catch the ATF as I removed the bolts, it worked great.
Oh, I almost forgot to say that the low/reverse servo plate gasket should be added to the parts order list. Mine was stuck to the original separator plate so I had to go without. At least it won't blow out as seen on other posts. I don't have a low/reverse engage problem.
I'm now considering going back in and adding the remaining superior kit and resistor. Any suggestions???

ok, question about the servos. specifically the "Overdrive" and "Intermediate" servos. not the electrical ones, but the ones you need the special tool for. what exactly do those things do? the look fairly cheap, would you recommend replacing them with a valve body rebuild? is it possible to replace them with the transmission still in the truck? 2001 ranger 3.0 v6, 5r44e -thanks

The servos apply the bands. They get dried out from the heat of the catalytic converter, and start to leak after a while. They are difficult to replace while the transmission is still in the vehicle. You have to remove the catalytic converter to get access to them.

do they leak past the o-rings that are on the cover where i would be able to spot that externally? or is it an internal leak where i would have no clue, other than the line pressure test outlined in the ATSG manual?

Does anybody know the input voltages that are applied to actuate the electric solenoids in the valve body? It's not in the ATSG manual. I was figuring the ohms check was nice, but to actually check the operation of the solenoid, to make sure the internal spring is good and not frozen, would be nice. From the ohms specs Glacier posted on Page 3, at 12V input, the EPC would draw 4amps of current at 3 ohms resistance, or a little over 2 amps at 5 ohms resistance (basically the ohms spec limit for the part). But that is assuming 12 Volts input. If I got it right, the EPC and TCC would be supplied varying voltages from the Computer to actuate the solenoid at the desired lengths. My question is what are the voltage ranges that would potentially be supplied to to TCC and EPC. Also, if I understand right, the shift solenoids are basically On/Off switches and would not receive varying voltages to vary the length of their actuation. It would either be an " 'ON' Voltage" or an " 'OFF' Voltage (which would probably be zero volts)" So my other question is what is the ON voltage for the Shift solenoids. I know just enough about Ohms Law and live close enough to a Radio Shack to build a solenoid checker, not just a simple resistance reading. If I can get that info, I'd be more than happy to post instructions on how to build the solenoid tester, I just need to know what parts to buy.

Specs on the EPC could be found in another sticky thread which is called a modest proposal. As for the servos, and covers leaking, they could leak externally (bad O ring on the cover), or the actual servo could leak internally (not having enough apply strength or releasing too quickly).

I have a 99 4.0L 5spd auto ranger with 171K miles and today it started acting up. It has had a shift flare for a while but I never really knew there was a fix for it. I just found you guys today. Anyway it won't shift out of 1st unless it is at really high rpm and I lift off the gas then it lasily goes into the next gear. It eventually goes into limp mode and starts in 2nd or 3rd gear and doesn't use od, and the od light blinks at me. Do you think with a rebuild of the VB I can take care of this? I don't think there is anything mechanically wrong with the trans, it still drives in all the gears, the computer just isn't seeing things right. Just looking for some opinions, I don't want to pay someone 2K to rebuild a trans, I can't afford it, and I've never been inside one so I figure it would be an interesting rebuild. I've rebuilt everything else on a car....

Roger

Roger... I'd suggest a rebuild of the VB and a new epc... will this definitely solve your problem ? maybe, maybe not, but good chance. If you rebuild the trans this will need doing in any event. Check out the 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary. You might consider buying a rebuild VB as well... but you sound like a hands on kinda guy.

ok one more question. can the intermediate and foward (overdrive) servos be replaced without affecting the band it actuates? ie. could the band possibly shift and the servo may not actuate it correctly once reinstalled? also, what would be some symptoms of the servo malfunctioning? i've got the shift flare issue, and it takes a while for it to decide to shift into reverse. so far i've purchased the sonnax boost valve, superior shift kit, the ford TSB update with new bonded gasket, new epc, low/reverse D-rings, and am planning on readjusting the band tension too. looks like the only thing left short of a full rebuild would be the servos. i'm figuring as long as i'm in there, what the heck, but i don't wanna have to take apart the whole tranny if a band moves or something. thanks

A leaking servo will not activate the band or will activate it, but will drop out very fast. It's best to adjust the bands after installing new servos.

They can, but because of the exhaust location it can be tough in vehicle. Replacing them when possible is a good idea.

thanks for the quick replies fellas. man, i would send a case of beer your guy's way for all the help and confidence you've imparted. i think i'll go ahead and replace them too then

ok, i'm working on a 5E44E transmission for my dad. so i get under his truck this weekend to eyeball things out, and lo and behold, there is NO heat shield covering the overdrive and intermediate servos on this transmission. the cat. converter is mere inches away. so i call the dealer to see about a heat shield, and they said they don't list a heat shield for the 5r44e, but they did show nuts and bolts for it. they do show a heat shield for the 5r55e though. when i drove the truck, it seemed like it got worse as it heated up too. do any of you guys know whether the 5r44e should have a heat shield on it? it's an 01 ranger with the 3.0 v6. thanks

I would suggest that you should get the heat shield from the 5R55E. Put it on your 5R44E for protection from the heat of the catalytic converter. It will prolong the life of the new servos.

i couldn't believe it. note to all 3.0 v6 ranger drivers, get your heat shield!

Girlfriend tells me transmission not shifting right,First thing that comes to mind is time to break out the wallet, so I check it out and find it having the 2/3 shift flare. Not being into a auto trans in awhile, I Google 5r55e trans and find this forum. After doing some reading I decide to order the Transgo kit, filter and VB gaskets. Pulled VB down find top plate gasket blown out. Clean VB up and start installing shift kit, takes maybe 30 minutes to install, very simple. Reinstall VB, new filter, trans pan and added about 7 qts trans fluid. Test drive truck and it shifts better than new. Took me 3 maybe 4 hours to do after cleaning up and cost me less than $100 dollars. So thanks to everyone that posted really helped me out a lot and saved me lots of money I'm sure of that.:thumbsup:

Hey...make sure she knows how smart and handy you are!

Glad we could help.

Glad we could help.

Speaking of help...I'm servicing my trans in the next week or so. When we talk about servos, we're just talking about the various seals, right? What else, if anything, should I be replacing regarding the servos?

The O rings around the servo covers.

Hey all, I just did my valve body rebuild this weekend too. Superior shift kit, Ford TSB update, Sonnax Boost valve, new servos, and band adjustment. I gotta say that between all these parts, the shift flare and delayed reverse were fixed. I have a few things to add to the forum that may be noteable:

The truck was a 2001 Ranger with the 3.0L engine, 5R44E transmission. The first note is to anybody with a 5R44E instead of a 5R55E, don't worry, the 5R44E used all the same parts as the 55E. The ATSG book should also be fine (it worked for me!) 2.)The 3.0L does not come with the heat shield to protect the servos. If you look in the ATSG book it even shows the heat shield as a 4.0L only part. I think this is a serious design flaw as the front servo is no kidding about 6 inches from the exhaust pipe. When we took that one out, it was kinda stuck and didn't really want to come out. I would recommend replacing the servos with this fix too, especially if your truck doesn't come with the heat shield. The servos are like little pistons that have a rubber seal around the perimeter to provide a good seal. Because my truck didn't have the heat shield, the rubber on my front servo was dried out and heat warped, therefore I'm thinking that was also a big part of the problem.

Getting the servos out isn't really a big deal. You need to drop the exhaust pipe with both converters (make sure you disconnect the O2 sensor). From there I just used a screw driver and levered into the servo cover and popped out the retaining rings. I would recommend snap ring pliers with small diameter pinchers to get the rings out, Ford didn't put an "eye" on the ends of the retainer, it's kind of a gentle curve so the pliers don't have much to grab onto and slip off easily. Anyway, the Superior kit has a new intermediate servo spring that provides more resistance than the Ford one.
All in all it was a worthwhile fix and I couldn't have done it without this forum.

Thanks for sharing that!

And for those new to automatics, the band servos are a metal piece with a rubber part molded on. When you replace the servo, you replace the entire thing, there is not some kind of seal that goes on it. They are denominated by a 2 letter code. AB, BB, CB etc. The last version for the 5R55E overdrive servo was a ZC. The servo and cap have to have the same designation (eg. AB and AB, ZC and ZC, etc) - the tranny servo bores will accept any of them - meaning an easy upgrade is to go to a ZC servo in your OD position (front most) and an AB in the Intermediate band position (middle).

In the Explorer, the OD was an AB, so if you already had the Explorer you have an AB cap... you will need a ZC servo, a ZC cap and a new AB servo to do this upgrade.
Doing servos at the same time as a VB rebuild is smart.

Good stuff, like the old trick of a Supercoupe OD servo/piston/spring.

Here is a little research on the flare problem. Mine was getting considerably worse and started throwing codes. (P0735 & P0732). A local ATSG branch gave me this info along with another article I found. Hope this hasn't already been posted.
www.geocities.com/btah02@att.net/5r55eFlare.pdf
www.geocities.com/btah02@att.net/img021.pdf
www.geocities.com/btah02@att.net/img022.pdf

Ended up going with a rebuilt VB from Central Valve Bodies. Worked Great!

I'd recommend ordering one of these too.
www.transmissionpartsusa.com/ATSG_Transmission_repair_manual_s/12044.htm

Thanks for that post. Excellent addition.

Hello everyone.I love all the info on this thread and i have to say that it has given me the confidence to tackle the job.So yes,the thing that i was dreading the most has finally come around; i have the 2-3 flare.Well,i've decided to get an off the shelf rebuilt valve body with Sonnax upgrades and a new separator plate from Central Valve Body so i can have a spare.My question is,do i need the transgo kit if i buy the rebuilt bv or does the sonnax upgrades address this issues?...also,do i need anything else besides the updated bracket,EPC solenoid,sep plate gaskets,pan gasket,reverse servo gasket and new filter?Needless to say,i'm planning on leaving nothing to chance.Thanks in advance,guys..i will keep you posted of the results....

Oh yeah,i know it's a dumb question,but i just want to amke sure i have the right tranny info.I have a 2000 explorer EB v6 4.0L SOHC 2wd automatic transmission.This is the 5R55E tranny,right?The tranny code on the door panel says D....i just want to make sure im getting the right parts.Thanks again...wish me luck:)

An In/LB torque wrench for the bolts, Mercon V ATF, drain plug for the pan (for future fluid changes), and the low/reverse servo D ring kit.

Thanks for that post. Excellent addition.

Thanks you for all your help, that includes everyone else who posted all the helpful info.
I was sure close to trading my problem away.

I was looking over the diary for probably the 50th time, and had a question about the new seperator plate used in the Ford TSB Upgrade (referenced in page 1). I have a 1997 Explorer, 4.0 OHV with 150,000 miles on it, and it has this part number listed: F77Z-7A008-DB in the application chart. But in the instructions it says to use this part: 1L5Z-7Z490-GA which is for a 1998 Explorer. Which one is right? Does one have the bonded gasket and one not? Can I use the one that is listed for the 1998 if it has a bonded gasket? I plan on also replacing all solenoids, and installing the superior kit while I am in there too.

:salute:
Brad

I was looking over the diary for probably the 50th time, and had a question about the new seperator plate used in the Ford TSB Upgrade (referenced in page 1). I have a 1997 Explorer, 4.0 OHV with 150,000 miles on it, and it has this part number listed: F77Z-7A008-DB in the application chart. But in the instructions it says to use this part: 1L5Z-7Z490-GA which is for a 1998 Explorer. Which one is right? Does one have the bonded gasket and one not? Can I use the one that is listed for the 1998 if it has a bonded gasket? I plan on also replacing all solenoids, and installing the superior kit while I am in there too.

:salute:
Brad

I would give Donny at Central Valve Bodies a call.
http://www.centralvalvebodies.com
Their valve bodies have all the Sonnax and Ford upgrades, a brand new epc and all the shift solenoids have been tested. Plus you get a 12 month warranty.
By the time you buy all the components separately you will more than cover the cost of a rebuilt VB. The one I purchased was $247.49 shipping and all. ( they'll give you a discount if you mention "Explorer Forum")

But if your heart desires try Bob Utter Ford dealer in Texas. They are very competitive with there prices and there parts guys are very knowledgeable. 1-800-259-3560.
It cost me $160 for just an epc the updated sep. plate, the blow off valve upgrade, a new solenoid bracket, and reverse servo gasket.

Glacier: This thread is the greatest. You perform a truly laudable service in sharing your expertise and talent. I have rebuilt my 4r44e from 97 ranger 2.3 2wd; Forward it does everything right: 1st, 2nd, 3rd, OD, TC lockup, engine braking in all the appropriate setups, but no reverse. I can get it to go into reverse if I run the shifter down to 1 to R and back and forth quickly , until the OD off light starts to flash, then it goes into reverse (sometimes) but if I throttle down, it goes up to about 1500 rpm and starts to choke. In normal mode (with no flashing OD light), when I place it into reverse, I can feel/hear an engagement of something: a servo or band or clutch pack, but no engagement at all. I have had the valve body out a couple times looking for something, verifying the placement of the check balls, the puck and the screen, the mobility of the reverse servo, the servo o-ring and the servo bore (smooth) and the placement of the gaskets (new). Even with the OD light flashing, there is no code thrown to the PCM, not even a pending code. Is that where I can read codes if the OD light is flashing? All the solenoids look good, but I have no test for the pressure controller solenoid. I am thinking that this may be the culprit. It is like the reverse band is catching, but the appropriate clutch pack is not engaging--not enough pressure or something. Should I check line pressures? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. -Mac

Did you check the reverse modulation valve?

Hey Brooklyn thanks for getting back to me. How does that valve work and what should I look for in that valve? How do they typically fail? Thanks.

-Mac
ps I love my '95 Aerostar. Wish it was a '97 though.

Here's a picture from Glacier991's photo gallery:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/2/152865r55.jpg
The reverse modulation valve is located on the upper right hand corner of the above diagram. Did you disassemble everything in that diagram?

I just pulled the VB from my Explorer. While checking the Ohms on the solenoids, I noticed that the TCC doesn't have the screen on it. Does that mean anything?? Going to order parts on Monday and want to make sure I get the right one.

Brad:salute:

Brooklyn: Thanks for pointing me to the problem. Yeah, the last time I tore it down I rebuilt the valve body. I took it down today and found that the 'L' shaped keeper in the middle of the reverse modulation valve bore was missing. It resulted in only one band clamping. All back together now, problem solved. Thanks loads.
-Mac

Thanks for the update!

what a great write up on this one yet another reason i love this place

Well, I finally broke down and joined up as an Elite Explorer, and I decided this was a good time to finally give the postscript on my 4R55E problems. Earlier in this thread, Glacier et al. helped me try to fix my failure to shift into 2nd problem. I installed the TSB fix, a Transgo shift kit, replaced solenoids, TSS, etc. But it didn't work. So I found a reputable shop, took it there, (incidentally, the head mechanic didn't know about the TSB) and $1200 later, my truck worked. This was back in the summer of 2006. It works fine now, although sometimes it downshifts funny when I'm slowing down for a stop. Anyway, the problem is shown in the pictures below. I have no idea why the band broke, other than just general fatigue. It looks to me like Ford could have beefed up that band attachment point a little. BTW, the third picture shows a close up of the band surface where the part number is printed. The shop owner said that he had never seen bands as clean and wear-free in a tranny to be rebuilt. Anyway, I'm at 160K now, and the engine's starting to run a little rough. No starting or acceleration problems, it just is louder and vibrates more. I haven't gotten out my stethoscope just yet, but I suspect it's coming from the bottom end. I am praying it holds out until May, when I finish my MBA, and then I can spend the summer on my next project: a 5.0+BW4406 swap. I know what everyone will say: buy a 4WD V8 explorer and mod it, but I like MY truck! So, can anyone suggest a good 5.0 rebuilding book?

So I'm not sure how long it took me to read this thread, but I still haven't figured out my problem. :( I don't have many posts on here but I'm on here reading everyday.

I have a '97 Sport, 4.0 Sohc of course, and an automatic, 5r55e right? I have reverse, it works but when it's cold, reverse makes a strange liquidy whistling/whining sound... sort of like the kitchen faucet when you don't completely open it, you know? When it's warm it doesn't make the whirring/whistling noise at idle, (in reverse) but when you rev it a little it does. Also I have the "Overdrive Band Failure" code. When I bought the truck it wouldn't go into overdrive. I had the band tightened to spec and it would shift into overdrive for a few weeks when cold but after it began to warm-up it would slide back into 4th unless you were climbing a hill, but then it would shift back into 4th until the top of the hill. :(

It's really confusing me because sometimes (maybe once a month) it will use overdrive on the highway for 20 or so minutes, but then shift into 4th. I'm pretty sure it's a VB problem, maybe a torn VB gasket? I have to get it fixed because I drive about 70 miles a day, and trust me, driving on US Hwy 1 (25 miles to school) with no overdrive is killing my wallet. Any advice would be a good place to start. I'd like to fix it as my Christmas present. ;)

Did adjusting the band eliminate the band fault code? You might want to drop the pan, and inspect for metal parts, shavings, and flaking gasket material.

No, the first time it didn't shift into overdrive the CEL was triggered. They said that the insides looked fine, no problems, clean fluid... what should I think?

What code # did you get? It could be a leaking servo piston. These pistons dry out from the heat of the exhaust. Make sure that the heat shield is intact before replacing them.

I think that it was P1762, which is the "Overdrive Band Failure" What should I do first?? If it isn't broken then what?

It might be the servo if it's not the band or if the band adjustment didn't change anything.

What about that reverse noise? Any ideas?

Check the seals on the low/reverse servo. I would recommend the viton D ring kit.

Hello Glacier991, I'm Joey by the way, I have for the past two week been reading most of your response you have posted related to the tranny blow-off gasket VB. Well I need help and if you may answer a couple of question for me, thx. (Before I start I must mention that this is a family truck mostly for travel miles 115,000) Let me get started, because I know you’re very busy, I started having problems with my 2001 STrac tranny O/D blinking, I notice that my 5th gear (4R55E) was not engaging my RPM were around 3200 or so. My reverse and other gears were fine. At this point in time I started reading most of your stuff and others trying to get an idea or opinion of what could be wrong? Well I took it in to a shop (codes stuff) and the individual there say 2 and 5th gears were causing my problem and that so sensor were needed (this would cause me around $1600) wow (Ford charge me $77 and they say 3k to rebuild). So I say to myself "NO" this guys are ****en crazy. So I started my project to fix this truck, I might say that I do have some knowledge in other older models, use to help my dad or brother work on there trucks & cars back in High School. So here's my 1st step change the oil and filter, did that and right away to my surprise I found no pieces of metal or gasket of any kind (staring at oil pan) and the oil was red in color. Installed the oil filter and new gasket and added oil and Lucas for protection. Took it for a drive (I read that I had to warm it up first, and I did) and the same problem O/D blinking no 5th gear, notice 2nd was dragging also or 1st. Came back to the website read some more VB gasket blow out and replacing EPC ( Did that made sure I follow all your steps, 72-97 inches in VB, added new oil and filter) warm it up took it for spin, no luck O/D blinking no 5 all gears doing fine, NOOOooo. I was think Glacier, all those days spend SH**, well I woke up this past Monday took it to another Shop. This guy gave me another codes, he said EPC, 2nd solenoid, low pressure and broken gasket ( didn't mention that I had already replace EPC and the gasket by the way at the time when I was putting the new VB gasket I also took the time to check the solenoids all were working .027, .005, .011 blah blah). Glacier what is going on why the low pressure can it be the pump? Right now, she's on stands and I'm working on the VB, rechecking values and rings I notice Valve Plug Retainer on EPC was kind of scratch. Any ideas, man I would surely be thankful.

End plugs could be leaking. Try a new boost valve with O rings, and an end plug kit with O rings. Did you clear the code when you did the valve body work? Maybe you were getting the old code?

Ditto, hopefully some of that is from the previous codes. I also am going back in soon to add the o-ring end plug kit to my VB, and other items that I didn't know about two years ago. My shifts are a bit soft for me right now. Regards,

Just passing along this in support of those dealing with new or past problems with 5R55E transmission rebuilds.

History: Total rebuild on carry in unit; torque convertor, bands, EPC solenoid, master kit, Superior Shift Kit. Found very little hard parts damage. Burnt clutches, bad torque convertor. Re-assembled unit. Used inch pound torque wrench and followed torque sequence. Dyno Tested at friends trans shop. No 4th or 5th. All others fine. Removed valve body and used friends air test plate on the case. No leaking air anywhere. Bands and clutches all tested good. Had 1st, 2nd, 3rd and reverse. Dis-assembled valve body. No sticking valves anywhere. Volt tested solenoids. All moved every time. Ohm tested well within range. Tested wiring harness with no problems. Seen no reason to dis-assemble case again.

FIX: Warped valve body; checked surface with machinist straight edge, high spot on the two solenoid side area between the two solenoids pretty much all across the middle. Had friend at engine machine shop mill the valve body down several thousands until flat. Thoroughly cleaned valve body. Re-assembled valve body and re-installed according to procedures. Dropped unit off at dyno room. Tested good. Now have all ranges.

Suspected warped body upon dis-assembly of valve body. Those who have been in transmissions all know the witness marks left on gaskets. All contact areas have imprints upon the gasket material. This valve body did not have contact areas all across the surface of the new gaskets. Can only assume that the valves were pinched in the area where bolts were pulling the valve body down as far as it would go. Once the valve body itself was trued up by milling it flat at the machine shop then the valves could ALL move freely as intended with a properly torqued down valve body.

Found out at my friends transmission shop that his valve body test stand pump was out. I couldn't test the valve body before installing it the first time. Only could dyno test the unit. One of his rebuilders had a 5R55E that they had to disassemble 4 or 5 times before it started working right. They usually have no problems when they do all the updates and shift kits. It seems there is always a unit every now and again that gives you fits.

I found this web site due to researching this problem I was having with No 4th or 5th after rebuild. I can say I have learned much here and I have told my friends to visit here.

I hope this post helps someone to at least - not give up and plow on ahead toward fixing your problem. If you know you have built the unit and all test shows no reason to tear it all apart again - start with ruling out with what IS working. Then hunt down in the areas where the shift should occur. I had 2nd so my band should and did work in 5th. I started to suspect direct clutch having a pinched piston seal yet the test plate air test showed all internal clutch packs were working. Not finding any mis-installed valve trains and no stuck valves I looked at the new gasket and there was my clue. It wasn't sealing all across the valve body.

This valve body problem evidently has been going on long before I ran into this. I am very glad that you people have went to all this trouble to help others. I hope this helps some of you as well.

My son will be home from the Army. We intend to enjoy our time together. You folks enjoy the holidays with your families as well. Truely, some of the best things in life are free. Again, thanks for your help.

I read your information on rebuilding the valve body on the 5r55e and I am going to attempt to do the rebuild. My vehicle has 195,000 miles on it and was wonder how hard is it to replace the transmisson?
I do not know how much work is involved to remove from the transfer case?

Everything is bolted on. You need a good jack (either a transmission adapter or a transmission jack), sockets, wrenches, extensions, universal, and a pry bar.

Plus a 1/4" torque wrench, the VB bolts should be no more than about 90in.lbs.

Hey guys I'm new here. I must say that this forum and this tread specifically is great! Much more detail than the other forums on this topic.
Ok, so here is my problem. I have a 2004 Ranger w/ the 2.3L and the 5R55E trans w/ 80k miles on it. I have had the 2nd to 3rd gear problem for a while now but lately it has been getting really bad. I took it to a local shop and the guy drove it and said the trans was bad. He didn't even want to rebuild it, just wanted to charge me $3400 to replace it. But after doing some research on this site and others I think the problem is in my VB. I want to try to rebuild the VB and see if that takes care of the problem, but I am not sure what kit to buy. I know most people on here go for the Ford kit and the Superior kit, but my truck is a 2004 and the TSB everyone refers to is only for trucks up to 2001. So if the TSB kit is not for my trans then do I get just the Superior or maybe go with the Transgo kit? Any ideas? Oh and thanks Glacier and all the rest for putting together such a great thread on this subject. I am sure you have saved a lot of us many headaches and spent dollars!

I have not checked to see the application for the Superior, and I will assume FORD made a running change in their proooduction including the upgrade once they discovered it. I'd probably do the superior in this case, because the Transgo also addressed the FORD Mod.... which I doubt you need. Also look at Sonnax offerings.

Thanks Glacier, I thought that might be the way to go. Always good to get a second opinion. Thanks again and welcome back!

Finally pulled the VB and did the Ford TSB, Sonnax boost valve, EPC and seperator plate. Fixed the weird reverse noise but still having problems staying in overdrive.

I'd like to know which of these solenoids controls the shifting into overdrive?
Is it a shift solenoid http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=609%2D00056841U&CartID=1

or the TCC solenoid http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/4R55E_5R55E_torque_converter_solenoid_1997_on_p/230-00023391c.htm

Thanks!

5th gear is a virtual gear, so it's a combination of things (solenoids, servos, bands, etc).

Well the code for the CEL is "5th gear incorrect ratio"... any ideas anyone?

I have a 99 EB with a 5R55E.

I was experiencing the 2-3 flare and the transmission was throwing codes regularly. I also experienced a strange shudder that occured occasionally on slippery roads (mainly snow covered). Not sure if the shudder was transmission or engine related.

I read though this thread (like a billion times) and ended up getting a value body from Central Valve Bodies at the forum discount. A local trany shop installed the valve body, put in a drain plug and synthetic fluid (already had a cooler).

A couple of shops suggest a rebuilt transmission ($2000 installed). All costs in, I am at little less than $400.

Thanks to this thread knowledge is power!

Everything now runs like a top! Was out on a snow covered highway (for about 50 miles) and didn't experience the shudder. I hope its gone for good.

Thank-you, Thank-you, Thank-you.

Doug

Wow. I just read through ALL of this thread and all I can say is - damn. Great info.

A question about the various methods for this VB rebuild:

Is there is difference in result (performance) between 1) FORD TSB + Superior Kit and 2) TranGo Kit?

The two methods above seem to be the most common but I'm having trouble distinguishing between why someone would choose one over the other.

Thoughts?

CMOS

Throughout this forum, I too have been wondering what the differences are between using the FORD/Superior kit or the Transgo kit by itself.

I have a 99 Ranger, 4.0, with a 2-3 flare and shuddering in 3rd under light throttle. I just purchased the truck (80,000 miles) and have no idea when the tranny fluid was changed last, although it's pink and smells perfect. I've read that in many cases, changing the fluid will illiminate the shuddering problem.

Also, I have been noticing many successes using rebuilt VB's with Sonnex upgrades...what upgrades does a VB with the SONNEX upgrades offer?

Lastly, for 250$, is is much labor AND cost effective to just purchase the rebuilt VB?

Glacier, we're looking for you! Thanks and I know that this site will prove invaluable!!! This rebuild diary is the Holy Grail of rebuild diaries.

It also makes me DESPISE some transmission rebuilders, or at least the ones I've dealt with in the past. If it doesn't shift right, they immediately write you a $2,000 estimate with a rebuild parts list. I have had a horrendous past with transmissions...and I baby my vehicles.

I'm a FORD fanatic but Holy ***t, why can't they make a transmission anymore? I've had an older Ranger, a Taurus, a 5.0 Explorer, and this Ranger, and they've ALL had tranny problems. The only vehicles I've owned with WORSE transmissions were Jeeps. OMG I won't even go there. '93 Wrangler, 2.5 liter, AX5 manual...4, yes count them, FOUR transmissions!!!!!!!!

Throughout this forum, I too have been wondering what the differences are between using the FORD/Superior kit or the Transgo kit by itself.

I have a 99 Ranger, 4.0, with a 2-3 flare and shuddering in 3rd under light throttle. I just purchased the truck (80,000 miles) and have no idea when the tranny fluid was changed last, although it's pink and smells perfect. I've read that in many cases, changing the fluid will illiminate the shuddering problem.

Also, I have been noticing many successes using rebuilt VB's with Sonnex upgrades...what upgrades does a VB with the SONNEX upgrades offer?

Lastly, for 250$, is is much labor AND cost effective to just purchase the rebuilt VB?

Glacier, we're looking for you! Thanks and I know that this site will prove invaluable!!! This rebuild diary is the Holy Grail of rebuild diaries.

It also makes me DESPISE some transmission rebuilders, or at least the ones I've dealt with in the past. If it doesn't shift right, they immediately write you a $2,000 estimate with a rebuild parts list. I have had a horrendous past with transmissions...and I baby my vehicles.

I'm a FORD fanatic but Holy ***t, why can't they make a transmission anymore? I've had an older Ranger, a Taurus, a 5.0 Explorer, and this Ranger, and they've ALL had tranny problems. The only vehicles I've owned with WORSE transmissions were Jeeps. OMG I won't even go there. '93 Wrangler, 2.5 liter, AX5 manual...4, yes count them, FOUR transmissions!!!!!!!!

I would go with the rebuilt valve body from www.centralvalvebodies.com. I did the whole ford TSB. Even replaced the EPC. Didn't change a thing. The shift flare just gradually got worse. I took it to a recommended shop to get some hint on what the problem was. They just wanted to replace the darn thing. I found a little info at the local ATSG shop. Stating that the flare could be caused by a bad 2nd to 3rd shift solenoid. But I just decided to replace the VB and have not regretted it. (Its a 99 Explorer 4.0 SOHC) Shifts like a dream.
www.geocities.com/btah02@att.net/5r55eFlare.pdf
www.geocities.com/btah02@att.net/img021.pdf
www.geocities.com/btah02@att.net/img022.pdf
Get yourself one of these too!
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/ATSG_Transmission_repair_manual_s/12044.htm

First I want to say thank you everyone here for your help. I have a 2001 ranger 2.3 with 140,000 miles that developed the 2-3 shift flare, plus other small anomalies. A national transmission shop said it was shot, and needed rebuilt. This is a truck i use as a work truck, and didnt want to spend thousands on it. After reading in this forum I concluded the problem was the vb gasket. Findind a tear in it, i replaced the 2 gaskets and installed the Transgo shift correction kit. I did all the updates to the vb plate and vb that the Transgo instuctions suggested. I did not replace the EPC because of the price and the fact that it looks easy to replace if later needed.

This fixed the 2-3 flare and the transmisson shifts great now. Only one other small problem now. When slowing down, say to a rolling stop, and then accelerating, it downshifts to first (sometimes to second at higher speeds), it shifts really hard. it bangs into gear fairly hard. On slippery surfaces it will easily break the tires loose. It doesnt bother me too much, was wondering if this is the nature of the Transgo kit. It did not do this before the fix mentioned above. It is hard enough to surprise someone new driving it, say, if I decide to sell the truck... might run them off because it feels like another transmission problem.

Does anyone else have this problem? Any ideas on a fix? I worry that this downshift may be hard on other parts and drivetrain.

Thanks again to all

The firmer down shifting is an intended characteristic of Transgo kits. It sounds like yours is unusually hard though. It is very good for it to be quick/short/firm, that helps longevity.

How are the other shifts though, are they also very firm, or softer? My trans seems like it is down on pressures, mine could be firmer and quicker in shifting.

Hopefully Chris will comment on what might be done to soften the down shifting. James, our resident PCM tuner, he can affect many changes with tuning by a flasher. He may know of an adjustment to help, but you don't want to hurt something else in the process.

Also, how did you adjust the bands, just like the Transgo instructions? I have really liked their methods and affects in the past for my vehicles. I'm going back into mine presently to change the shift solenoids and update the servos and seals. Regards,

CDW6212R,
Upshifting is fast and firm, feels normal. Downshifting is fast and feels quite a bit harder. I did not adjust the bands. Thier instructions where not very thurough, and I was not familiar with doing this. I should of included this info in my first post...:rolleyes:... Could this be my downshift problem?

if so, can you adjust the bands with the transmission in the vehicle? Does the valve body have to be removed? Are there any special tools needed? I also did not use the large washes/spacers that was included with the kit. I believe that this required the transmisson out of the truck.

Thank you for your help

I did my Transgo kit tow years ago and 23k miles ago. The bands are adjusted from the outside. The adjustment bolts are on the side of the trans, and their instructions need you to remove the rear driveshaft to feel the trans output shaft to do it. It's not hard, but I'd have to read them again.

I doubt that the band adjustment would affect the down shifting, hopefully Glacier will chime in soon.

There is one thing you could do, but I haven't seen this recommended anywhere, so anybody which objects to this should not hesitate to chime in. There are some parts called high radius relief valves, and the high ratio boost valve which are used with the 4.0L engine along with a check ball configuration for the 4.0L engine. The 3.0L engine uses low radius relief valves, and a low ratio boost valve with a different check ball configuration. The torque converer is also different with a different stall speed. If you would use these parts instead, then your overall apply pressure would be roughly 10 PSI lower, and the shift pattern will not be as harsh. The shift kit should still maintain the firm shift feel without the sudden apply feeling which you are experiencing.

Harsh downshifts can be due to a number of things. Accumulators are designed to absorb some of the pressure changes, and soften shifts, up and down. VB spools that adjust for thse things have springs that also compensate. I'd start with the VB and spools and springs.... look at what the spool does and see of you changed a spring. If so, you might try changing it back. From my experience Transgo would not give you a spring that would ersult in a harsh down shift.... did you assemble it properly... especially a factor whee you have opposing springs - easy to confuse the location.

Thanks Chris, I don't know anything about individual VB functions to point him to a specific place. I figured that there are a short few that could affect that. I'll delete this later. Regards,

After reviewing the instructions, yes, I am confidant i used the right springs in the right locations. The one section in particular provided different springs depending on engine size, I used the 4 cylinder spring since mine has the 2.3L. If this problem persists, maybe I will go with a completely rebuilt valve body. What do you feel is the chances of this fixing the problem?
Thank you again.

This is one of the links in # 10 in my list of useful threads which should provide additional information on this problem: http://www.gearsmagazine.com/images/issues/2_2007/2007_1_22.pdf

Ok, maybe i should of put more miles on it before posting. I have about 300 miles on it since the work was done on it is getting better! The upshifts are nice and firm still, and the downshift isn't as bad as the initial test drive. I think i am just going to go with it. Its not very often that i have a vehicle fix its own problems. Thank you all!

OK guys, went to Ford today and ordered the new separator plate ($34.61) and the Ford valve ($30.10)...I'm ordering the new VB w/ Sonnex upgrades in about a week (I've been spending $$$ lately like I make 6 figures). I can't believe $220 shipped with new everything. Great price!

My questions... Do I need the updated Ford valve, or SHOULD I use it with the new VB? I KNOW I need the new plate, but was unsure about the valve. I don't know what the Sonnex upgrades are on the new VB.

I also don't know whether or not to order the Superior kit, either. Can you help me out? Thanks!!! :)

If you use the new separator plate you SHOULD use the FORD blowoff valve. Unless it is already in place (it will be obvious if it is) put your new one IN. Failure to do that COULD result in damage. Even if they used some other form of EPC overpressure blowoff protection, there is no harm in putting the FORD mod in place.

Glacier...thanks for the reply!

I was concerned about using two of the same pressure mods, so I'm glad you know something about this.

I'm actually ordering the new VB tomorrow from Central Valve Bodies...I guess I should ask Donny if the Superior kit will do anything beneficial in addition to the already installed Sonnax modifications?

Glacier...picked up the separator plate and Ford valve today; however, the valve only came with a RETAINER and not the SPRING you have pictured next to the Ford valve in your pic. Is this correct? It's part 3L5Z-7M203-JA for a 99 Ranger, 4.0. This is what it calls for !

Oh, 1 thing I noticed about my tranny...with OD off, going about 35...step on the gas trying to get a nice shift. Instead of that nice shift, the tranny bogs, so I press the gas pedal MORE (as I hear my poor 4.0 pinging, a whole other problem recently) until it DOES shift but the RPM's go all the way to 4 thousand after that shift. No slipping, just NOT right. WTF? Any ideas?

By the way, why is the "double lip seal" for low/reverse so special? Was or is this a problem area? Is this a FORD part I can get?

My tranny does go into reverse slowly...prolly a second later than it should. I'm guessing this seal has something to do with that?

Dang, you'd think Ford would have gotten this tranny right after the A4LD debacle...I have an 88 Ranger with the A4LD...it's a rebuild with, oh, 4,000 miles on it (shift kit, other VB mods, can't remember what exactly). Then my 2.9L blew...with almost 200,000 miles on her. GREAT truck. Hey, it's a FORD!!!

I was told there are shops that won't TOUCH A4LD's. Is there any truth to this? Mine shifted and slipped and BANGED like HELL for almost 70,000 miles. It just kept going like that. How, I have no idea.

The viton D ring kit makes a tighter fit: https://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=230-00023256K

Hello Everyone
This is a great site.Glad I joined.

I keep wondering...if the 5R55E was the "updated" version of the dreaded A4LD, could Ford not have done any better?! Two words that I've read in magazine reviews about the 5R transmission use the words "flakey" and "confused". I agree. ESPECIALLY confused. Whenever you're in OD you don't want to be and every time I'm in 3rd I want 2nd. Don't Ford engineers test these things extensively before offering them to the public? I mean DUH!

You would think that if something was to be improved, that would equate numerically with less problems. It seems as though the 5R55E is another wonderful transmission brought to us by Ford Motor Company. Automatic transmissions have been around for what, 70 years, and they STILL can't get it right?!!! What happened at Ford after the C4/C6?

I mean, what is the frigging problem...can Ford not put a reliable transmission in the Explorers/Rangers?!

Yes, I still am a FORD fanatic. Best truck in the whole dang universe.

The 4R and 5R are derivatives from the A4.

I'm on my 2nd 5R and I think its a pretty good transmission. My previous lasted about 120k w/o any problems -- which is pretty good considering that's almost like driving 19 times around the planet. I thought the gear selections were proper and if you think yo should be in 2nd when in 3rd, then I think thats a sensor/electronic issue, or the engine is not in tip-top shape.

Almost all automatics shift like they were made for the least feel, plus upshifting as soon as possible.

The best result from VB kits is the far better shift timing qualities. The A4LD wasn't up to heavy truck use, and the 5R55E is just barely enough for stock power levels.

The 5R55E does have wonderful close ratio gearing. The 5R55W's are wide ratio units, plus a little stronger.

Chris, what gearing does the 5R55S have, the wide or close ratios? Regards,

Donny at Central Valve Bodies sent me this information before I ordered his VB on Thursday...


"Sonnax updates:

Large ratio boost valve and sleeve, elevated pressure regulator spring, 7pcs o-ringed end plug kit, and TCC regulator sleeve.

Other updates are installed as needed. Please use the separator plate that comes with the valve body, it has been modified for better lock-up and shift operation.

Explorer forum cost = $229.99" plus $17 UPS ground shipping...includes a return, postage paid sticker for your old VB to send back...he requires your core.

He also told me that the FORD TSB basically corrects nothing and not to use it with his VB...OR the Superior OR Transgo shift kits as his VB accomplishes everything they accomplish.

SUPER nice guy who sounds like he knows his stuff. I think this is a GREAT price and former members who have purchased his VB's have had good luck with them.

OK, so where is this reverse seal(s)...they're ON the valve body, right?

I just opened my package from central valve bodies and I can't wait to install her.

I see the big circle (SORRY, I have limited knowledge in trannies, except for the fact that I've never NOT had transmission problems, ALWAYS) where the reverse solenoid is located on the gasket...so I was wondering where this update kit, if I decide to update it, goes.

FYI, Donny DOES in fact use the FORD 1 piece separator plate/bonded gaskets...he said not to use the "plain" 'ol one I got from Ford (the "updated" separator plate from Ford) because his is even better after his mods.

I noticed something else, too...theres a valve on the side of the VB that appears IDENTICAL to the FORD blowoff upgrade, which, according to Don, really corrects nothing that is really wrong with this VB. (He says that when he gets these VB's in "they're really a mess")

I have the new Ford valve and put it up next to the VB (although I can only see the TOP of the valve as the VB is already assembled but I CANNOT see a difference. It's like he's already using the Ford upgrade, unless one of the Sonnax upgrades is virtually identical.

Any thoughts?

OK, so where is this reverse seal(s)...they're ON the valve body, right?

I just opened my package from central valve bodies and I can't wait to install her.

I see the big circle (SORRY, I have limited knowledge in trannies, except for the fact that I've never NOT had transmission problems, ALWAYS) where the reverse solenoid is located on the gasket...so I was wondering where this update kit, if I decide to update it, goes.

FYI, Donny DOES in fact use the FORD 1 piece separator plate/bonded gaskets...he said not to use the "plain" 'ol one I got from Ford (the "updated" separator plate from Ford) because his is even better after his mods.

The reverse servo is underneath that round plate at the corner of the VB. It's not part of the VB but up in the body of the trans. When you remove the 4 bolts holding the cover, the servo piston will come out and you will see the large O-rings on the piston. These should be replaced with the D-rings you hopefully bought.

Take your time, follow the instructions and you'll be fine.

Good luck.

Sonnax stuff does not look like a FORD mod blowoff last I checked. It's easy to pop that out and see if it is in fact the FORD mod. But like Wood said, just install it and torque it carefully and you will probably be good to go.

Nice to know he is sleeving the TCC bore. I think that is ESSENTIAL. His price is very very good. As for the overpressure issue, there were a number of ways to skin that cat. FORD only came up with one. Others exist and I am sure Donny has engineered another approach.

Glacier...hard to explain without a picture...the side of the VB where the reverse servo part of the gasket is (if you're holding the VB, the reverse servo hole is on your left, there are 4 valves, or holes on that side...theres also a little dimple between the 3rd and 4th "hole"...the 2nd "hole" is where the valve that looks IDENTICAL to the FORD mod is located. It's the SAME size, and has 6 holes on the outside, 1 on the inside, JUST as the Ford mod is...ONLY difference I can see is there is NO dimple on it.

There are only 3 hex bolts holding the gasket on....are they torqued, or just snugged? Maybe I'll open her up and take a look inside.

Probably snugged... you will need to retorque them anyway as a good move when you get ready to install. If they ARE torqued, it ain't much. Be careful when you remove it so nothing is sticking to the gasket (like pucks or balls - though balls almost NEVER stick).

i just picked up and 89 Bronco II with and automatic overdrive. when i put it into gear it acts like my old 73 maverick did in high school and takes a while to engage. sometimes it will disengage for no reason. i bought a new filter and gasket and there was some crud in the bottom of the pan. as soon as i was done, it went right into gear and drove around the block. i got back and let my son take a ride and it started all over again. i could really use some help on this.

Ted

Welcome to this forum! Your A4LD transmission does not have an electronic valve body like the 5R55E. It has a 3-4 shift solenoid, and a TCC solenoid. The 5R55E has computer controlled pressure along with the gear shifts. It's possbile that you didn't get all of the old fluid out when you dropped the pan. You might have to rebuild the valve body if it has high mileage. Check the A4LD valve body rebuild diary sticky thread for more information.

Ditto, the issue will surely be in the shifting controls, the VB or solenoids/accumulators.

you guys rock! is it safe to drop the valve body while the tranny is in the truck? is it then safer to pull the lines from the radiator and apply a little air to push all the fluid out. if not, what is the preferred method. i was hoping i wouldn't have to pull the tranny. i have a book to rebuild ford trannys, but it doesn't cover the a4ld which i am assuming is what i have.

Follow the add a quart/drain a quart method in the other sticky thread by AlDive for more information: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77507

Find the common manual which covers the A4LD, they run about $14 each and are excellent. Almost any trans parts dealer will have what you need. Check elsewhere here for threads about what people did with their A4LD.

All I am reading here is a 2--3 shift flare. I seem to have a problem with a 1--2 shift flare. Now what I don't understand is that if I shift it manually off the column, it makes the shift just fine. Everything else is just fine. I must say after 180,000 plus miles, this is my first repair issue. Not bad if I must say!! :us:

I dont know if this is in the right place to ask this since this is a sticky, but I see a lot of questions here so... Im doing the VB rebuild and I break one of the first rules. I turned it up and lost the puck. Can someone send me in the proper direction to get another. If I have to I will buy the TransGo kit. Today I got the Ford parts guy to look it up and he has the same breakdown for the VB as in the ATSC manual. He wasnt any help as I figured, I had to give him all the part numbers for the TSB's!!! Forum is great and I am joining!!!! Thanks!

Welcome to this forum! Is this the part you are referring to? http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Ford_A4LD_valve_body_puck_p/230-000023299.htm

That would be the one. You guys are phenominal. Hope I spelled that correct!

A 1-2 shift flare is a delayed engagement of the OD band.

At 180K seriously consider replacing the entire VB with one from Central valve Bodies.

Hey Guys, I have a technical question about the Solenoids. I hope it is ok I post in this AWESOME thread. My O/D Light started blinking and then it would stay in the same gear. I would turn teh car off and everything would be fine for about 15 minutes then the process would repea itself. I tested the error codes and it said that three of the shift solenoids were in the stuck off position. I took it in to the the shop and they said that the electrical checked out ok and I had them drop the pan and test the solenoids. They told me that 2 of the three solenoids were pretty weak, but he was unsure if this will fix my problem. He said that it could be inside the VB. I do not have a lot of money to spend on this but I want to fix it correctly. Do you think it is ok to replace the "Weak" solenoids and everything will be ok are should I go in and have them look at the VB. FYI, I had the transmission rebuilt about 2 years ago.

Welcome David, I suggest that you have the VB worked on, as well as change those solenoids. All of the VB's need the VB kits or Ford updates. That is basically never done with any rebuild, shops just change as little as possible. The shift solenoids are cheap, do those in any case where one is suspected. The EPC is high dollar, over $110, change that at near 100k miles. If you cannot find out if those were done, you might do well to replace them all. Regards,

I am new here so pardon my interruption, but I have a 5R55E question. I changed my filter and fluid today (brown) and now as soon as I put it in gear it dies. Torque Converter Lockout? Is that one of the solenoids that I can see when the pan is off? Or do I have to pull the tranny? I have had this truck for a few months and have been changing all the fluids since it didn't look like they were in good condition. However, Everything seemed to be fine until I changed the filter and fluid.

Thanks for any help.

Welcome to this forum! It could have some left over debris caught somewhere or it might be the idle air control valve which coincidentally started to act up around the same time.

I hate coincidences.

The Idle AIr Control Valve was replaced by PO as far as I can tell. Really shiny and new looking. Doesn't mean it isn't bad though. Any way to verify if it is working or not?

If it is the Torque Converter Lockout, Can I change the Torque Converter Solenoid? If so it seems I can change it in the truck, Is that right? Also after thinking last night I recall that since I got the truck the RPM's have always dropped to about 500 when I go to Reverse and sometimes would stall out. The change in that now is that it just stalls out in reverse as well as Drive.

Ask the symptom question to Chris or another expert. You can change the TC solenoid or the others, but the VB may have to come down for that. They solenoids all go into the VB sides, there may or may not be room to replace them with the VB attached. The EPC is over $100, the others are not expensive at all. Regards,

Where the heck do you find these solenoids? Autozone? Internet? Ford?

WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com, WWW.BulkPart.Com, WWW.FastPartsNetwork.Com or WWW.800700Tran.Com.

I just checked with a Tranny shop about doing the electrical check on the solenoids and he said that was no big deal, BUT that I probably wrecked my tranny by changing fluid and putting new fluid in it. He said that the new fluid cleans the tranny and I probably have a bunch of junk in the torque converter and no matter what I do I will probably have the same problem until I get a rebuild. PLEASE tell me he is an idiot.

Thanks
Brian

Ah, the age-old argument on should you change the fluid or should you leave the old in. My tranny had 280,000 kms on it when I changed the fluid and filter. I did have to rebuild the VB and replace the governor but at that amount of KMS I think those are maintenance items. I also added an external filter and additional cooler. I think he's full of $h!+.

Thanks Woody I feel better. Was feeling like an idiot for trying to maintain this thing.

To Glacier: I apologize for asking questions about problems in this thread (I just read page 12). If the moderator wishes to delete my stuff to keep this thread clean and on point please feel free. I will open my own thread with my problem.

Thanks again to all that have helped.:banghead:

Well the Transgo kit is done. Shifting is definately much better with no slipping. It's like driving a different car. When I jump on the gas it kicks into a lower gear and does what I expect it to do. Prior to installing the Transgo kit, it just seemed to mush along and I couldn't hardly tell if it shifted gears. I doubt that the weather will get cold enough again to check the delayed shift into Reverse and especially Drive. I'd be willing to bet that the reverse servo D-ring kit would have fixed that issue by itself.

I used the 98 VB and just used the Transgo kit with the original seperator plate so it looks like I have an extra new seperator plate and the Ford TSB kit left over. I also installed a new EPC solenoid and the reverse servo D-Ring kit. The D-Ring kit is a very tight fit when reinstalled in the VB. Even after buying all the extras I still saved a bundle from the dealer cost of the Ford mod.

Thanks to all of you that answered my guestions. Your help has been invaluable.

Well it's been about 20 months since I installed the kit and the transmission is still working like new. My 97 Explorer now has 154,440 miles and the engine still runs great and burns no oil. The Transgo kit was one of the best investments I ever made in a car.

I finished my 5R55E valve body upgrade, using the postings in this thread. I am very happy with the results. My 1999 EB had a bad shift flair 2-3 and sometimes would slip so bad I would have to let up on the gas, hoping that 4th gear would grab and keep me going.

I did the Ford TSB with bonded plate gasket and relief valve, also put in most of the Superior shift kit. I readjusted the bands. But I did not replace the EPC solenoid. I planned on replacing the EPC solenoid later. I later found a new EPC valve on Ebay for only $20 + shipping but have not replaced it yet.
My total parts cost so far is around $250, including Superior shift kit, Ford TSB parts, Sonnax, filter and Mercon V. This doesn't include the new TPS ($45).

I also replaced the Modulator valve with the Sonnax unit. I could not
remove the coast clutch retaining plug, so I left it alone. I also left out the "pressure riser" mod, with the resistor crimped onto the EPC wiring.

I also added a drain plug by drilling a hole and brazing a 12mm nut on the inside of pan. Kragen had a 12mm drain plug with gasket. It doesn't leak a drop.

When I first got it running, it wouldn't kick down and I thought the EPC valve was bad. It turned out to be the TPS wasn't putting out a good signal. My EB now shifts better than ever, better than when new, after replacing the TPS. The shifting is very smooth. It downshifts and accelerates better than ever, with 103,000 miles.

I'm about to order the parts to do the rebuild, but I have a question on which separator plate I need for my explorer.

98/00 4.0L - EI Explorer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-GA 98GT-CB/DB; XL2P- EA/FA
98/00 4.0L - SOHC Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-HA 98GT-AA/BA; XL2P- CA/DA

I have '99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC, so do I get the GA or HA plate? I assume there is a physical difference between them?

I found this on www.justanswer.com/uploads/kennyz1963/2008-07-12_113221_tsb03-22-10.pdf
1998-2001 Models ONLY
98/01 2.5L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-DA 98GT-GA; XL5P-CA
98/00 3.0L Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-EA 98GT-EB/FB; XL5P-AA/BA
98/00 4.0L EI Ranger Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-FA 98GT-KB/LB;XL5P-DA/EA/FA
98/00 4.0L EI Explorer Plate - Valve Body Separator 1 1L5Z-7Z490-GA 98GT-CB/DB; XL2P- EA/FA
98/00 4.0L SOHC Plate - Valve Body Separator1 1L5Z-7Z490-HA 98GT-AA/BA; XL2P- CA/DA

It looks like the HA is for the SOHC V6. Check the tag on the back of the tranny to see
if its a XL2P- CA/DA. Good Luck

Nearly 100,000 reads on this. If we saved an average of $100 (avoided un-necessary rebuilds etc) per visitor, we have aided the economy by keeping 10M in our readers pockets !

Is that economic stimulus or what?

I am heartened that this tghread has helped so many. I get emails often saying so and so shop wanted $2000-$3000 and I fixed it using this thread for (oh about $$30 average).

You all rock. Long live DIY.

I have a question regarding the seperator plate, and I am sure that it has been asked. But I am tired of searching... I have a gasket between the VB and the Seperator plate, and I also have a gasket on the top of the seperator plate, is this the bonded gasket that comes with the seperator plate if I order it???

The new design separator plate has gaskets bonded to the top & bottom. So if you buy the Ford part (1L5Z-7Z490-HA 98GT-AA/BA....) it already has the gaskets attached.

If you use an aftermarket rebuild kit or shift kit, they come with new gaskets and you have to scrape the old gasket off the old separator plate.

I used the new Ford part it was easier.

Thanks Merkur. I am glad to know that. I will probably buy the Ford one.

Glacier, (or others)

'97 4.0l SOHC w/ 5R55E 4WD

I am aiming to fix a minor shift flair and slow reverse. Read the diary.... etc. (great) pulled all my parts together. My experice... I would rate as highly skilled (car, boats airplanes, engines etc.). I've done transmission work to my other '97 OHV 4WD without an issue (different exhaust).

My problem..... the pan... I cannot get it off. It did not have a clip on it (purchased the X used so I'm assuming someone previous had ditched it) but I simply cannot get it to slip out. It is simply too tight between the 4WD shaft and Catalytic Cov.

Any suggestions?

It looks like I'll have to support the xmission and remove its cross member to create more room. There are no signs of damage, but it seems like the cat is too tight (to the drivers side) by about 1/4". Either that or perhaps try to push the cat. over.

Thanks in advance

I ended up removing the front end of the fwd driveshft (supporting it w/wire) to be the simplest way to create enough space to slip the pan out.

After reading all of the diary with no mention of a similar problem, I figured I must have been missing somthing simple. Anyway, I'm set. Just suprised that I had to do this. And, the driveshaft bolts will be loctited and torqued when re-assembled.

I had to take out the left side catalytic converter.... 2 bolts on the left exhaust manifold and 2 more on the Y-pipe (over the right side of the transmission X-member).

Good Luck

My VB rebuild parts from FPN (and Sonnax) arrived the other day minus alignment pins which I could not cough up $100 for. How critical are they when reinstalling the VB?

You could use your valve body bolts to do the same thing.

Thanks for the prompt reply, Brooklyn'. And thank you Glacier et al, for this wonderful thread.

Guess what I'll be doing on my vacation next week? Yup, VB rebuild!

Does the 2004 Sport Trac have the same 5R55E, or is the valve body kit at least the same?

Do I need to unscrew the bolts around the servo just to drop the VB on the 5R55E (2WD)? Thanks!

No, don't touch the band adjusting studs unless you plan on adjusting the bands with a torque wrench.

I meant just the bolts of the servo/reverse band cover. I removed them since it didn't seem the VB could be dropped without doing so. Was I wrong???

Remove those 4 bolts to get the cover, gasket, and the servo out.

Thanks Brooklynbay! I'm not messing with the servo itself, just dropping the VB to do the rebuild.

:salute:to Glacier and BrooklynBay.. thanks for giving me the motivation and the knowledge to tackle my valve body in my ex. The hardest part was getting the tranny pan past the cat! After 150,000 the thing drives like brand new! So thanks again and now I am an Elite Explorer :D

I have read almost any page of this post, i have no speak english very well, but i try, i have an 1997 xlt 4x4 explorer, 3 months ago, i decided to rebuild her tranny because the 2-3 issue and a 1, 2, and 4th speed slip, and.... the nightmare begins, i visit 5 diferent repair shop and all of them tell to me that the repair cost is about 4.500 Bs - 5.000 Bs (1 US$ = 2.15 Bs). One day a friend tell to me about some guy that considered a tranny expert an a cheaper in his handwork, i decided go to him but with my supervision and also offered my handwork, this guy install the entirely transtec master rebuild kit, and... after this work the tranny get worse, this 2,3,4 speed is gone and reverse is very slow and slip, i no pay nothing for this bad work and towing my car to my house, after read this post, i buy a torque wrench, and, pull out the oil pan, the valve body and reinstall this with the proper torque in each bolt, and set the correct torque that two band adjustments, the change was amazing, only 1 problem continues, in the 4th speed the tranny start to slip, for example at 90 KPH the RPM indicates 3000. This is my hystory, i hope someone help me, excuse me for my bad english! :

Long story for a short question... Was stationed in Japan and my wife purchased a 1997 Explorer 4.0L OHV 4X2 on Ebay as a surprise since we: A) needed a vehicle when we got back in the States, B) had had good luck on Ebay our first time coming back from overseas in 2002, C) Had previously owned an Explorer and 2 Bronco II's, D) were buying from a Dealership on Ebay. My Son picked up the Explorer in FL and shipped it to AZ where I was in school. I took delivery the day I graduated and was leaving to meet my family. I noticed right away the 2-3 shift was off but it was too late. Took it in to our old mechanics in SD and they couldn't figure out what was wrong as there was an additional connector. It was showing codes for speed sensor. They recommended a Xmission shop. Took it to the shop and they kept it 2 days as they were having problems determining what was going on. Their conclusion beyond the fact that the transmission needed to be fixed was that the truck has the wrong transmission in it. They said it had a 1996 4R55E vice a 1997 5R55E and wanted some ungodly amount to replace it (3,000+). I did some investigation on getting a junkyard transmission or attempting to repair it myself by reading this and other posts but ran out of time on leave and decided to chance the trip from CA to WA with a second vehicle we purchased in CA following instead of abandoning the truck in CA. The Explorer made it fine. With the exception of the 2-3 hard shift and the occasional slip (if you try to get on the gas in the 2-3 range) it seemed to run fine. I overcame the shift problem by letting off on the gas at 20MPH with momentum. The transmission would shift as it coasted. Doesn't work too well on onramps or hills so I'm stuck with forcing the hard shift. From the beginning I don't think that the truck was hitting OD (or maybe it is a 4 speed where a 5 speed should be) because the idle seemed high (around 3200 RPM at 70-75MPH). I also believe the speedometer is reading faster than the truck is actually operating to the tune of about 10MPH at the 75-80 range. I've driven the truck for about 5000 miles now (total miles are about 126K) while searching junkyards and Craigslist for a transmission. About two weeks ago the OD light started flashing (4800 mile since delivery). Since I still had no transmission located I tried changing the fluid and filter which changed nothing. That is the performance of the truck has been the same regardless of the flashing OD light or the fluid and filter change. I stopped by a transmission shop here and explained the wrong transmission story to try and get a price and they said that it was impossible that I had a 4R and that I was mislead. They quoted me 1800 for a rebuilt transmission which is still way more than I would pay. Finally, the question... The code on the door indicates it should be a 5R55E (code D). I couldn't find the tag on the transmission when I was changing the fluid and filter to determine if it is in fact a 4R or 5R. Is there another way to tell? My current plan is to drive it as is until I either locate another 5R transmission, it gets worse or I find out that what I have is a 5R that needs the mods in this blog. Open to any suggestions. Thanks, Wally

I have finished my gearbox over haul, I have installed a transgo upgrade, replaced a broken band and replaced as many seals and washers as I could get hold of as well as a sonnax boost valve. The gear box is ready to install but I have hit a snag. I can’t seem to get hold of a revised upgrade bracket for the solenoid XL2Z-7l491-AA, over here in Aust they are not readily available. I’ve read through the diary and have checked out these parts dealers
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-00056841u.htm
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...roduct_Count=3
www.transmissionpartsUSA.com
but none of them list this part. Could some one please point my in the right direction so I can finish the rebuild.
Any help will be appreciated

Check WWW.RockAuto.Com or WWW.FastPartsNetwork.Com, and let us know if either of them have what you need.

Check WWW.RockAuto.Com or WWW.FastPartsNetwork.Com, and let us know if either of them have what you need.

Hello all,

I am returning to the forum after having searched for my Explorer's problem which showed some months ago. I would like to know if the repair kits for this valve are applicable to foreign export versions of the Explorer. Mine is a Venezuelian-built 2002 XLT 4WD model with a 4 speed automatic transmission with overdrive. Also, what could be the price of a complete valve replacement unit with the gasket kit and solenoids? If this part is applicable to my car I would be buying it by Internet because it is currently not available in Ecuador, while a mechanic is offering a used one for $1,500 which I think is way too high.

Many thanks in advance for any directions which you could provide.

Carlos A. Cordova
QUITO - ECUADOR

Welcome Carlos, the 2002+ has the new version of the 5R trans, it's called a 5R55W. You will need a valve body from that model of trans. Those also benefit from the valve body kits, it may or may not be the same VB kit from the aftermarket. Ask the same source that is mentioned in here for rebuilt VB's for the 5R55E. They likely will rebuild and sell the vb that you need. Good luck,

Hello Glacier!!

Im new at this Forum, Im fixing my ranger pickup 1998, 3.0L transmision I believe it is a 5R55E. I have identified where does the L retainers should be located in the valve body but I have a question about how each L retainer should be positioned? I mean do they prevent that the valves goes beyound it should goes or do they prevent that the spring push forward the valve, or do they keep compressed one spring through a valve. Hope I can explain my point, sorry for my bad english :) maybe next example can works better:

* valve-spring-valve-Lretainer- valve
* valve-spring(compressed)valve-Lreatiner-valve
* Lretainer-valve-spring(compressed)-valve

Again, hope I made clear and thanks for you help
Regards
Fher205

Welcome to this forum! This diagram should help clear things up for you:
https://www.wittrans.com/images/schematics/A4LD/4R44E/4R55E/5R55E/4R44E%20Valve%20Body%20Parts.jpg
Here's the direct link: https://www.wittrans.com/Schematic.aspx?Transmission=A4LD/4R44E/4R55E/5R55E&Schematic=9

I just recieved my 5r55 valve body from 800700trans.com and it came with the Ford upgrade already installed (bonus!) I also ordered a Superior kit, and the Sonnax -EZ kit, which included their boost valve and an elevated pressure spring for the valve. It says for firmer shifts use the spring with OEM valve, but for firm engagements and up and down shifting use the boost valve and spring from Sonnax.

I'm wondering if using both the spring and valve would make it shift too hard, which would get quite annoying.. Or if those that installed just the boost valve think that even slightly shifts would be a positive thing.

I didn't know that Sonnax had that for the 5R55E, I just discovered it for the 4R and passed because I have a higher pressure EPC. I would probably try that Sonnax PR valve and spring. Follow the instructions, the 4R part mentions not using one without the other.

Final tuning with a PCM flasher would fine tune some symptoms of OEM and aftermarket parts.

The -EZ kit is pretty comprehensive and seems to accomplish both what the superior kit and ford modification does. A nice part is that it also gives instructions on what not to use if the ford blowoff valve is in place =]

I was reading back a few pages, and someone mentions that central valve bodies sells their rebuilt units with both the elevated pressure spring and the increased ratio boost valve, so I'd imagine it doesn't give undesirable shift characteristics.

I didn't learn much about the 5R55E, it seems that the only things to do are correction related. Either you are swapping in the best OEM parts, or the same for certain VB parts.

Sonnax makes very good stuff, they don't make much that anyone should be afraid to use. Superior was very new just ten years ago, they have come a long way and have done similar things to Sonnax. Just learn what parts are available and exactly what they are supposed to do. I think the pressure related items will help a lot beyond the VB correction things that have been around for years. Keep us updated if you find a few useful parts not mentioned before. I'll be going back in mine some day to change accumulators, adjust bands, and change fluid again. Regards,

Thanks for sharing that!

And for those new to automatics, the band servos are a metal piece with a rubber part molded on. When you replace the servo, you replace the entire thing, there is not some kind of seal that goes on it. They are denominated by a 2 letter code. AB, BB, CB etc. The last version for the 5R55E overdrive servo was a ZC. The servo and cap have to have the same designation (eg. AB and AB, ZC and ZC, etc) - the tranny servo bores will accept any of them - meaning an easy upgrade is to go to a ZC servo in your OD position (front most) and an AB in the Intermediate band position (middle).

In the Explorer, the OD was an AB, so if you already had the Explorer you have an AB cap... you will need a ZC servo, a ZC cap and a new AB servo to do this upgrade.
Doing servos at the same time as a VB rebuild is smart.

I am not sure I understood this, the servos in my 4R55E has both AB, which one of these could I buy ? http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m38.l1313&_nkw=4r55e+servo&_sacat=See-All-Categories
Other places I could order these ?

You will have to buy a ZC servo & cap for the overdrive. Replace the AB servo for the intermediate, but keep the AB cap.

just ran into the flare and trans issues on my 5r55e and franticly began searvhing for parts and procedures. this site is amazing, thanks for the research and answers. just ordered all the parts nesecary let you know the results

I am new to this site. Just love all the detailed info. I am looking for a reputable place to buy a complete reman valve body with upgrades. Possibly sonnax upgrades. I have a 5r55e.
Thanks
Jeff

Welcome to this forum! Check WWW.800700Tran.Com & WWW.CentralValveBodies.Com. Central gives members of this site a discount.

Ok just to be clear i can order the valve body from central valve bodies with all the good stuff inside of it and replaced already?? ready to bolt in pretty much?

Yes, you could order it like this. There are different options.

Thanks I'll check them out. Any recommendations on how I should have them set the valve body up? If the specs are already in the many pages of this forum I apologize in advance.

Some are set up with various kits for towing, racing, OEM (stock) or with Sonnax upgrades such as a boost valve or end plugs with O rings.

I just wanted to say thank you to the folks that contributed to this diary.

I have a 1999 XL and did the Ford sep plate, Blow off valve and sonnax boost valve with the Superior kit parts. I also replaced the EPC solenoid with one I found on the net for about $25. Replaced the filter filled it up with fluid and test drove it. It was worse than before! I had both delayed reverse and drive and the 2-3 gear shift was way delayed! This was of course all followed by the OD light blinking. I thought all was lost and there might be problems with the internal parts. But I thought I would check all of the possible issues listed in this thread and decided to tear it back apart. I reinspected the valve body, Valve body keepers, sep plate, solenoids and brackets, I decided to put the stock EPC back even though they both tested good. Re-torqued everything in 3 passes. Also replaced the low servo gasket which I had not before and reinspected the low reverse servo double lipped o-ring and discovered that one lip was very slightly crushed luckily I had ordered a spare set with the LRS gasket. Replaced all o-rings reassembled filled her up and now?

It Drives like a dream! It is Incredibly smooth I think it might be better than when I first bought it and I've owned it for 10 years.

So thanks again to all that provided info in this diary. Not only did it make the project easy it was kinda fun!

Whether it was technical or where to get parts this thread, forum and its member are top notch!:D

Well its been 35000 miles since I (we) rebuild my tranny and boy it working great, thanks again guys for all your comments. and for you folks that are in the early stages on rebuilding don't give up (remember it was a human who created this, you are no different)

I also wish to thank everyone who has given any input to this thread. Somewhere WAY back in the diary ( I think it was Glacier) who installed a drain plug in the drain pan. All I have been able to find are the nut style ones. He has mentioned a soldered in style. I was wondering if anyone knows where to pick some of these up.

I mentioned soldering a nut into the pan, and have a thread on how to do this. Check # 75 in my list of useful threads for more information: http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206353

Not to worry, you will find them at Oreilly Part Store. There 9.99 - 12.99

'03 Ranger, 2.3 Duratech, and the 5R44E-gad slushbox, complete with a flare no one needs.
Just ordered the upgraded VB from 800700tran with a new OE EPC solenoid thrown in for good measure.
I come from a long line of casual wrench heads, but none of us have ever gone into an automatic tranny. Thanks to all on this thread for giving me the confidence.
My only gripe? Wish I would have read this before I bought the truck; I would have passed it by and kept looking for a Ranger with manual shift.

I just received in a CVB body from Donny and noticed that it doesnt appear to have the six hole blow off for the EPC?? Can anyone else confirm this for me? I have this for the 2005 Explorer Sport Trac. I have an email into Donny but wont get a reply back till tomorrow and its going to bug the crap out of me.
:)
Cheers
Kinley

I just received in a CVB body from Donny and noticed that it doesnt appear to have the six hole blow off for the EPC?? Can anyone else confirm this for me? I have this for the 2005 Explorer Sport Trac. I have an email into Donny but wont get a reply back till tomorrow and its going to bug the crap out of me.
:)
Cheers
Kinley

There are about three companies who make parts for these VB's. They don't all have the same blow off design/appearance. That sounds familiar to the TransGo kit I used, but I don't recall. This thread has the pictures though doesn't it?

Wow. Way back when I did the initial thread on this I would never have guess that this thread would be one of the more popular threads on this site, or that this many folks would read, post and contribute. I'm glad this has been a valuable thread to so many.

Glacier

ps. Kudos to Brooklyn Bay for picking up where I left off ! Greatwork and advice BB !

I just read through most of this thread. I have a 2002 Sport Trac with the...5r55e.

It's always been fine... at least I think.

Couple weeks ago out of nowhere I now have a couple second delay when going from park to reverse, and reverse to drive. I would guess it is about a 3 second delay from when the shifter hits the gear until the transmission shifts.

It still have manual engine braking in 2nd and 1st, and no codes.

Someone told me to pull the pan and replace the filter as it may be a bad o-ring.

Has anyone had just slow engagement when switching from reverse to drive with no other symptoms and if so what fixed it.

Thanks!

Get the TransTec D ring kit for the low/reverse servo: http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/A4LD_4R44E_5R55E_Transmisse_reverse_servo_D_ring_p/230-00023256k.htm

Wow. Way back when I did the initial thread on this I would never have guess that this thread would be one of the more popular threads on this site, or that this many folks would read, post and contribute. I'm glad this has been a valuable thread to so many.

Glacier

Heh, more like start something and then run...... LOL

I would HATE to see your PM in box. I bet you could crash this entire site!

Shawn


PS - Now, go write something good about the 5R55S so that I can quit trying to convert E to S....

Well... I still have a 4R70W/4R75W Rebuild video to finish, and my next diary will likely be a 5R55W Rebuild. Life gets in the way sometimes. Not gone, possibly forgotten. BB appears to be picking up the slack nicely.

Glacier

I called and spoke to Donny regarding my question. He said what they do is calibrate the EPC spring versus doing the blow off valve. Apparently the blowoff valve is easier for the Ford tech to do since it is "plug n play". Since the Central guys are in the valve body they can access/take the time to calibrte the spring.

Makes sense to me.

I gotta say Donny is a great guy to work with plus the part came package very secure. I recommend!!!
Kinley

Hello Group,
Great info in this thread. I have ordered the valve body from Central Valve Bodies. Donny was great and I did get the Explorer Forum discount. All the parts came in quickly and I will be performing this repair tomorrow. I will keep you posted on the status of the repair. Thanks to everyone for all your experience and knowledge.

Well I complete the VB install today. The hardest part about the whole thing was that stinkin heat shield. What a pain. Anyway, took the old VB off and put the new one on from Central Valve Bodies. I also replaced the o-rings on the low reverse servo. The 2-3 flare is gone and it shifts better now than when I bought the Explorer new.
Only one issue, it still is a little slow to engage reverse. Any suggestions on how to fix?

Just want to thank everyone on the forum especially Glacier991 and Brooklynbay for all your posts. This forum is absolutely awesome. So far this forum has helped me fix:

P0401 Code - DPFE senor replaced
Dash lights
2-3 Flare.

Thanks again!!!

You could do 3 things to help with this problem. Install the TransTec viton D ring kit instead of using regular O rings, install end plugs with O rings, and a boost valve with O rings.

Brooklynbay - I believe my rebuilt VB came with the Sonnax boost valve but I will call Donny to make sure. I ordered the D-ring kit but I had two issues. First I could not get the D-ring to stop twisting on me when I put them on the piston. Secondly the D-ring made the piston so tight in the cylinder that I was afraid that it would not even move. I ended up putting on new O-rings which made the piston much tighter than before I replaced. Do you think I should still put the D-rings on? Again just worried about how tight it made the piston.

Interesting it sounds like those "D" rings may need a tool like trans piston seal installers. I have not bought those either, but have wanted to.

Put the servo with the D rings in the freezer for a few hours, then install everything. The cold temperature will shrink these parts just enough to make your installation simple. A small coating of transmission fluid will help lubricate these seals to enable it to slide into the bore.

Brooklynbay - And that is why you are the MAN! It is one of those things where you slap yourself on the head and say "why didn't I think of that"?
Ok, next question. Can I replace these O-rings without taking of the VB? I believe all I need to do is remove the servo plate and drop down the piston, correct? Also, is there a technique to putting these D-rings on without twisting?

Lubricate the servo piston, then slip the rings onto it. Don't touch the valve body. Disconnect the 4 bolts holding the plate. Remove the servo cover, and the gasket. By the way, did you replace this gasket with a new one or did you reuse the old one when you did this the first time? One thing that I wanted to mention is that Lubegard sells freeze sprays that instantly lower the temperature of seals, and provide lubrication (all in one spray). There are 2 grades of these sprays. The regular one is the standard spray, then if it didn't shrink enough, you spray the heavy duty spray onto it (but only after spraying the regular spray first).

That's good stuff... the Lubegard also.

Check this link for more information: http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-191/LUBEGARD+Seal-E-Zee+Step+1

BrooklynBay - Yes, I used a new gasket. I had the new D-rings but had trouble putting the larger ring on the pistion without twisting. So I ended up putting on new O-rings. Thanks for the advice on this repair and the lubeguard. It may take a while before I can get to this fix but I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again!!!

Barenfang- did you notice that the VB plate gasket was not bonded to the VB? I was out looking at the VB tonight and noticed that my gasket was askew, lo and behold it is not bonded. Thought all the new materials came that way?
Kinley

Kwinters2 - Mine was set perfect on the VB. I am not sure if it was bonded but it was tightly fitted against the VB itself. Not sure if you got it from CVB but give Donny a call. He was great to work with.