[EDIT: This is a series of threads, 5 in all. Each covers an aspect of the rebuilding of an A4LD. It's long, but hopefully worthwhile. Here is a link to the parts if you want to jump ahead.

The A4LD Rebuild Diary
Part 1
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98027

Part 2
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101571

Part 3 - Reassembly, Part 1
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103666
Part 3 - Reassembly, Part 2
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113354

Part 4 - Postscript
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103582

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Ok, if you go back far enough you will see where I was attempting some time ago to figure out a "near bullet proof" A4LD rebuild. Time, and other things got in my way, but now with 205K on my stock 92 A4LD, I figured it was time to get serious about rebuilding it. Then I hit on an idea.... why not buy an A4LD, rebuild it to "state of the art" and then when I pull the old one to rebuild the engine in front of it, have it ready to "pop" in?

I also thought it might be helpful to others to chronicle this progess, which may take few months of stolen time.
Hence this thread.

Ok first item, buy an A4LD to rebuild. I found mine in Eureka CA, some 300 miles from me. I drove there and picked it up this weekend. Worst part, the drive, best parts, the drive and the fact it the trannie still has a transfer case attached, and I am told - it works!

So with the rebuilder here on site, I am about to begin the rebuild. My goal is to incorporate every possible upgrade into it, to help make it as "bullet-proof" as possible. I intend to list all the items that go into it, and openly solicit other ideas along the way. Should be a fun trip. Hope you can join me.

I'll post pics as I go.

Chris

Looking forward to it. This thread should definately make it to the "Useful Threads Forum" when your project is complete.

Didnt the 94 basically have all the update parts?

also i think there is an aftermarket company that has a kit to install in the a4ld (superior - ithink) to make it perform a lot better, but you can only do it with a complete rebuild, you might want to look into that... also a computer chip will also modify the shift patterns and improve performance...

thanks Jim, and yes there are several valve body mod's out there. Whether I use the Superior, Transgo or another is still up in the air. But a good point. As for chips, I plan to stay stock.

I should give you all some background. I have only rebuilt a few auto transmissions, so consider myself a seasoned newbie. I was able to garner ALL the factory tools for rebuilding this transmission, so may be able to let folks know where the factory tool is "nice" and where it's a "ya gotta get ya one of THESE" kind of things. I also have the full factory manuals, so maybe can point out where the $15 aftermarket manuals are lacking.

And yes I think Jim the 94 was as far as Ford took it, I also think the 4R55E came in in 95. But there are additional mods added by others than FORD (like the Superior Valve body mod). For example my mod will have a steel sleeved governor, FORD never offered that. This should be fun, stay tuned.
Film at 11. Wait, it IS 11! Ok here's what the poor thing was reduced to prior to this project.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4046.jpg

Chris

Since my last post I have cleaned up the transmission/transfer case combo, and separated the two. I took the torque converter out - don't plan to reuse it, but am told it only has about 15K on it. Might make a good door stop.

Meanwhile I have been furthering my homework on this trannie, and am nearing a final list of the things I want to do to it. Several problems present themselves... the transmission I have is from a 91 Ranger. I do not know if that was a 4.0 engine, but I guess in the final analysis it matters not, I will upgrade the case to 4.0 standards if need be. [turns out is was fro a 4.0] I am also not sure what components will fit the newer center support with torrington bearings either (mainly the direct drum etc). I have a local outlet for Aceomatic, so plan to pick their brains along the way. Anyway, that said, here is my list (an updated version of a much older one).

1. Bellhousing, etc. Will be removed and shipped off for a new converter bushing machined in place to tolerance of under a mil. In my book critical to a long lasting A4LD rebuild, and a cause of a lot of later rebuild problems.

2. New pump. Gonna bite the bullet and buy this from FORD. I will have the proper tools for alignment, and am comfortable with this bellhousing/pump aspect of this project as a result of that and the machined in place rebuild of the bellhousing. (It's only $40 for the bushing/machining - I mean WHY cut THAT corner?)

3. Overdrive. Everything I can do here I will. Beefier planetary (overdrive planet modified for heavy duty use) and any other upgrades here I can find, indluding maybe an overdrive sprag with a metal cage. I need to look into the overdrive band, but I don't think this has been a problem child. relined in any event, maybe new depending. Number 3 bearing I'll try to go with needle bearing instead of thrust washer. One way clutch possible upgrade if available.

4. Center support. Will be the bearing version used in 94. The number 5 bearing will be a select fit needle bearing (torrington). Debating adding a steel insert to a new center support mid section. It IS available aftermarket (Sonnax) for old center supports with some runout to "save them" but kinda sounds like a good idea even for new. Will see.

5. Direct Drum. Cast iron, 6 pack.

6. Forward Drum. 6 pack. for bearing to support app. (94)

7. Forward (front) planet 6 pinon.

8. Rear planet - 6 pinion

9. New double wrap bands in intermediate and low reverse applications.

10. Case mod to 4.0 specs if required (holes bored to extension housing for improved oiling and some other changes in rear one way clutch and bearing/race behind same).

11. Sleeve governor with steel insert.

12. Low sprag update.

13. New flywheel spacer.

14. New OD adapter.

15. Updated 3-4 shift solenoid. (FORD E8TZ-7M107A)
[Late note - too expensive $179]

16. new flexplate.

17. inline screw on oil filter.

18. Additional in line oil cooler added AFTER radiator on return line.

19. Temp sender and gauge.

20. Adjustable Vacuum modulator.

21. Rebuilt Torque convertor with brazed fins, some extra attention to lock up aspect too if available.

22. Home made heat shielding for solenoids.

23. Sonnax Valve Body update (sleeve and valve) for pressure boost.

24. Maybe a bigger Pan.

25. Might powder coat the trannie black. (MIGHT).

26. New Rear Crank pilot bushing [looks like the
new spacer does this by itself]

In short, anytime I can use a bearing instead of a thrust washer I will, and anytime I can add a beefier component, I will. Known failure points will receive special attention (bellhousing/pump for example and overdrive section).

That's is about it for now. If anyone can think of anything I have left out that is "bulletproof" worthy, please let me know. I have no monopoly on this area of knowledge, and in fact am sure that as I talk to more folks and get into the teardown, I'll find other little helpful hints and ideas. As I progress (going to be a number of weeks anyway), I'll keep you posted, with pics and a shopping list with prices.

Chris

Hey Chris,

I have a brand new.pump (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=94694&highlight=A4LD+pump) from Ford that I didnt install when I tore mine down. PM me.

I would get the new deep aluminum pan thats available- drain plug, you could tap it for a temp gauge and additional cooling.

Get both the Trans Go and the Superior kit- some overlap, but also some differences.

Dont forget to drill the drain back hole in the converter housing before you get the bushing installed- drill it to match the size of the backing plate hole 5/16" I think. The hole in the bell was around 1/4" and I stepped it up to 5/16", or 11/32" -Dont remember, but it was the same size as the pump hole and backing plate hole. Covered in the superior kit instructions, and I think the update book.

Also one of the trans guys I spoke with talked about an updated converter seal- he couldnt give me the info, but it would be worth checking on.

I would buy NEW bands - too many instances of the strut anchors pulling out (intermediate bands seem to bear the brunt in this respect)- I feel a new part would be less prone to failure here than a reline.

If you have a fax and want the instructions to the transgo and the superior kits to look over let me know.

Also a new OD sprag retainer is available- it may be current replacement, but worth checking to make sure you get the updated part.

Look into the later model grooved clutch plates - standard 5r55 and up- adds to fluid cooling and increased holding power- so Ive been told. I have some Alto numbers.

I'm about ready to roll up my sleeves and do a rebuild myself. So I'm wondering what all this costs?
I was basically going to buy this kit
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46103&item=2456753076
but now wondering whether I should or just follow your recommendations.

I was also going to get the superior kit in addition to the transgo that comes in that auction. What do you guys think?

I'm not trying to hijack your thread here, but I think price serves an importance purpose. :) If all this can be done for a reasonable price, that would be awesome.

In most cases, you get what you pay for, so if you get a nice a4ld out of it, then it's worth it. I don't want to be doing this every year or two.

Thanks for any opinions/comments.

Transmission Exchange (the Company offerring the E-Bay kit in your post) is a reputable company. And the price on that item is a fair price, considering there's a specialty torque convertor included (I'd feel better if I knew the fins were brazed). One of the biggest problems in rebuilt A4LD's IMHO is that people expect a "soft rebuilt" (e.g. clutch plates, gaskets and seals) to be a quality rebuild (as it often is in other trannies). Generally various "hard parts" (drums, bands, gears) should also be replaced - and in the history of the A4LD where a large number of "running changes" (eg. mid production) were made, it is silly not to upgrade while you are in there. The kit referred to in your post is said to be a TEC kit. IMHO the best kits out there for soft parts is a TransTec kit - wonder if that is what this is? I hope to have pricing info in the next week or so, and I'll post it. I'll guarantee it wn't be $450. I too am also curious about the need for, and use of more than one valve body upgrade kit. Still doing my homework on that one. HTH

I would call them and ask specific questions about the kit- whos it is, if it has certain seals, exactly which bushings come in the kit, Are thrust washers included? Ask about the torque converter -who makes it? brazed?, balanced?, stall? etc.

FWIW I wouldnt use the tube and fin cooler- look for a plate or "long" style cooler. B&M has a big one available for 50 from Summit racing. Earls also sells the smae type. The B&M is a great cooler, same design as the stock aux cooler- except much BIGGER :D

Glacier, it's not a Transtek kit. TEC is their own brand name (short for TransmissionExchangeCompany). The torque converters are TEC brand as well and the company has a website here http://www.txchange.com

What do you mean "it won't be $450", you're thinking more or less? Probably more.

Glacier, I see that your in Sac. I'm 1.5 hrs south on I-5 if you need a hand. (For myself, it would be better going into this with little experience and not none).

I might pay a neighbor mechanic to take it off for 100 bucks, but not sure.

SteveVB, I didn't read anything about the torque converter having brazed fins on their website. All I recall is "low stall" and balanced.

I have a ?
My oil lines go from the tranny into the side of the radiator (driver side) and then come back out. The line that comes back goes under and to the front of the radiator where there is a separate cooler (about 15"x18" or so) then the line goes back to the tranny.

My questions: Is this stock? For some reason I thought that the lines went into the radiator and back to the tranny.

I guess I should tell you guys what my problem is. I have no OD. I'm getting all gears but no OD or it's slipping in/out as the tranny tech advised. He was going to do a valve body job and discovered metal shavings that he's almost sure they are from my Torque convertor, so said no no. You're tranny's contaminated and said "Rebuild".

BTW, when I bought the truck it came with a new aluminum radiator and no signs of oil leaks in the lines.

Eli - I'm afraid I see the cost as substantially more than $450. If I do the entire list I'd be surprised if I get out for under $700 in parts cost. But then that's going to be a much IMPROVED trannie.

Your no OD could be as simple as a failed or badly leaking OD servo, but if you have metal in the pan that is NOT good news.

The early Ex's with the "towing package" had a front mounted cooler a you describe. I'm betting most high mileage A4LD's are the ones that had that cooler on them. Mine has 205K and has one.

Thanks Glacier, like I said before, if you need any help researching anything (specific parts,etc) just let me know. I'd be willing to pay that much for a better tranny. I know I'd have to do some labor, but that doesn't scare me.

My Explorer has 240k miles on it. New motor (from FORD) only has 80k on it now. I don't think it has a tow package because it had no hitchball or one of those thingamajigs (forgot what they're called) the weldment to attach hitches that's bolted to the frame. I'm wondering if the old owner added it later.

What I liked about my truck is that it was the original owner, his wife drove it, and he had all his parts/work done at the local ford dealer (don't know if that's good or bad :D )

Here's what I'm wondering if I should try.

1. Do a valve body job.
2. Flush the oil system
3. Place inline filters for any more shavings on the incoming and outgoing lines.

All I'm trying to do is buy me time and not create more contamination inside.

So from your list, it sounds like your changing some hard parts?
Why wouldn't you change your TCC selenoid? I heard there was an upgrade to it?
Here's what I did last weekend in my Ex:
.
http://www.anglernet.net/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=22524

I will assume your diagnosis of no OD application is a correct one.

Well if you are trying to milk out some miles, I'd flush the fluid, replace the filter, for sure. OperaHouse (or others) on here may have better ideas but I am wondering if the placement of the overdrive solenoid on the case side is so close to other exhaust parts so as to make replacement on-vehicle impossible.

Possible problem areas: Either the OD clutch band is bad (not a huge problem area on A4LD's I don't think), the OD valve bore is stuck (Bore 200) or contaminated, or the OD servo is bad. Given you have contamination, your problem may be more likely in Bore 200. Cleaning THAT you can do "In Vehicle" as part of your valve body work.

So, let's say you want to get as may more mile as as possible and to heck with everything else. For my $ I'd flush it well, drop the valve body, clean and check it out, esp bore 200, replace the filter and valve body, maybe add a Ford inline filter, or better yer a Summit spin on to use after the rebuild. And hope you get lucky that you solved the prob. My 2 cents.

As for the plan,yes MOST hard parts get replaced, hence the $$. The TCC solenoid - I think here may have been a TSB, I'll check, but so far stock seems fine, but a good idea maybe to replace it.

So far I a having zero luck finding a good brazed fin, balanced, low stall speed torque converter - that would be the holy grail in this project methinks. Keep your eyes peeled.

Chris

TerryY posted the link where I found this article in another part of this website. Although this particular article was not written for or about the A4LD, the trannie referenced is a kissing cousin of a transmission (in a way) and was written by a FORD engineer. There are some wonderful nuggets in this article in general and I HIGHLY recommend it to everyone thinking of a "bulletproof" A4LD. Thank You TerryY!! This is a keeper I will refer to a lot ! Why you ask ? Well: (Example - 1) the Direct Drum is NOT as critical a I thought, I won't fret over it as much like I might have otherwise. (Example - 2) Higher number of clutch plates in low horsepower applications not only rob you of the heat sink cooling ability of thicker steels, but may not be needed. (Example - 3) Nongrooved clutch plates required higher control pressure to prevent "hydroplaning and excessive heat" - and so it goes - this article is chock full of great transmission engineering know how. GREAT STUFF !)

Here's the link:

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/index.shtml

Most of the rebuilder torque converters are brazed

Top of the line Brazed-balanced etc for a price try Pro Torque (http://www.protorque.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=16&cat=A4LD)

Thanks for the info Steve !

There's no point in trying to buy time. I had to drive it today and now a new problem has arised. I was driving down the highway until I came to a stop.
Well, I stepped on the gas (normally) and noticed that it did not want to go. It felt like if it was starting in 3rd gear, but then it started going and kicked in to 1st then 2nd. Ok the shifts were slippery. What I mean is that they wern't firm. If any one has felt a clutch slip on a manual tranny, that's what it felt like.

I can honestly say that I heard "noise" coming from the tranny. Like something kinda grinding, then a small pop.

Also, once I'm driving, it don't downshift into 2 or 1 UNLESS I put it on 2 and give it some gas, then it POPS into gear.

The end is near for my tranny and won't drive it further to prevent any major damage.

Anyone have any clues as to what might be happening?

Eli - sorry to hear. Yep it's toast. Your best use of time now is to get it out of the vehicle so you can rebuild it. I'll try and have parts numbers and costs next week. Is this your daily driver? (in other words is time critical to you on this rebuild?)

Glacier, it's not our daily driver. It's actually a 'spare' vehicle but it's the vehicle my wife & kids enjoy traveling in the most.

Our daily drivers are a '97 Mazda sedan and I drive an older Nissan pickup (which didn't pass smog today, another big bummer).

After work, I drove from work to my parents house (5 miles). I started out like I explained then it cleared up out of the blue and starting shifting normally :eek: Regardless, something is not right inside and I'm hoping to get it out within the week. You know what would be cool, to get a list of good tools to have for the rebuild. I have no clue as to whether I'm gonna need special tools or maybe just some tools that will make life easier. Thanks again.

Edited: SteveVB or anyone, I saw the B&M coolers you mentioned and that's what the one I have sort of looks like. My question is: Is there any benefit in installing 2 aux. coolers inline? Or would one aux. cooler and a bigger alum. pan be enough to keep temps down?

A 2nd cooler is far cheaper than an aluminum pan and will provide oodles more cooling.

As for tools, I'll be posting a list of tools shortly, but the only specialty ones that you really need to have (that I can think of at the moment anyway) are the pump alignment tool (only needed if you if you remove the pump) and a clutch spring compressor. The rest of the list can be improvised by using other tools, and in fact you can improvise a clutch spring compressor if you are handy. We'll hopefully have some folks chime in on how they improvised theirs.

This thread is starting to fill up and I still hven't seen any nude tranny pictures!

OperaHouse!

Delighted to see this thread caught your attention. I was hoping along the way you might throw in your 2 cents worth. Hmmm no nudie trannie pics yet .. now come on - think a l ittle. Last time you went to strip trip club, did they EVER walk out nude to start? (Hint.... knowing you are some fundamentalist nutcase and never been... NO !!!). Seriously... next week is busy but hope to back fill A4LD tools etc... week after, start the teardown... then gone for a week and then get serious. Oh also next week, I am hoping to post prices and parts... planning to purchase them at that time so it will be REAL cost. Would enjoy hearing your comments on desirability, necessity etc. (And If I missed something in my earlier listing I'd like to know it NOW !! <g>) When this thread is done I would hope it is seen as a collaborative effort that can be referenced by all the guys (and gals) who wanna DIY rebuild. In the end I am sure the moderators will need to edit it, and shorten it, but feel free to treat this as YOUR thread too. Attempted hijacks welcome. That goes equal for you SteveVb and Aldive too and anyone else

Chris

ps. Next week starts the pics with the posts. For those who have never done it, posting pics in a post about makes the time required 10x more. So when you see a pic festooned posting, thank the poor idiot (SOB or whatever) who did it.

I'll be checking out this thread as it progresses. I have some pics of my tranny oil and what it looked like.

Last night, I think I barely made it home. The Ex starting making a whining noise at stops. Sort of like a belt slipping, but sounded more like a really bad bearing. As I would come to a stop, it would start slow and accelerate until it was at the same speed as the motor. As I would accelerate, it would dissapear. If I put it in neutral, it would immediately stop.
It also feels as if I can't lay any power to the wheels unless i go over 3500 rmps. Torque Converter? Doesn't really matter. Made it home and have pics of my oil. Metal in the pan. :mad:

The only advantage I see with the alum. pan is that is has a higher capacity and has a drain plug (and optional temp sending plug). Has anyone ever drilled and tapped their own drain plug? Shouldn't be hard.

SEli- sounds like you may have broken the intermediate band. Doesnt matter- you will have to take the trans apart to repair.

Thanks Steve for all your help.

I have another request for info. It would be nice to know what sort of "working area" is needed. (ie, what size table, seperate cleaning table for cleaning?

I don't have a work bench, but I have plenty of wood to make a heavy duty bench. Was thinking of a 4x8 (overkill?) white carpeted table top for easier viewing of parts during assembly?? And something separate as a cleaning station?

Another needed tool is a torque wrench. One that goes down LOW, 10 ft lbs if memory serves (not claiming it does)

I enjoy any quest for knowledge. Bulletproof A4LD, everything mentioned didn't include the parts that went bad on mine. Just don't think you can make it that much better when you consider the cost. I could never imagine putting in a shift kit. Over 100K of driving I never felt anything strange. My only mods are to keep it cool. Rebuilding an A4LD doesn't have to be expensive. One should even consider a partial rebuild. I know I'm cheap, I should be repairing cars in Cuba. I just put my transfer case back together with pieces of beer can in it, rebuilt the belt tensioner and the $10 starter solenoid.

Opera, I'm cheap too, I think the HD torque converter will be the most expensive part or my rebuild. I have the manuals on the way to start reading.

Opera, what does your tranny cooling system consist of? I'm definately adding a 2nd cooler.
What went bad in your tranny??

One thing is for sure, everyone seems to agree that heat is public enemy #1 for the a4ld.

Here's a pic of my transmission pan. Doesn't look good. Anyone care to anylize?
http://www.anglernet.net/tranpan1.JPG

Cooling is just a decent standard external cooler and the external filter. Mostly I like the filter for adding an almost extra quart of fluid. Unless you have some seal problem, the clutches will still look pretty good. This leads one to think that if you can keep the seals cool the transmission should have a long life. There will always be random mechanical failures. I will be getting the new cast tranny pan. Extra fluid adds a longer time constant to temperature swings. Nice when you stop moving or have short term bursts of heat. Think of putting a pan of hot water on the stove. The water is allready hot(130+) and look how long it takes before it boils. Water does have a higher heat capacity but it oes give you an idea how much heat two extra quarts can absorb.

I was on one site and this company was very proud of only having a 5% return on rebuilt torque converters in warranty. Think of 1 in 20 transmissions having to be pulled again. Think someone ought to have pictures showing what their HD is like compared to standard, like they did with FRAM filters.

Don't all pans look like that? My 97 looked just like that when I dropped the pan @ 106K and it is still running 42K later. No chunks of metal is good. I found needle bearings in my pan and it ran without a single noise.

Originally posted by Eli 91 XLT
Thanks Steve for all your help.

I have another request for info. It would be nice to know what sort of "working area" is needed. (ie, what size table, seperate cleaning table for cleaning?

I don't have a work bench, but I have plenty of wood to make a heavy duty bench. Was thinking of a 4x8 (overkill?) white carpeted table top for easier viewing of parts during assembly?? And something separate as a cleaning station?

I had two work spaces - both wood topped. 4x8 would be nice, I had one that was maybe 20" wide and 36" long, and another that was 2'x4'. More space the better. Nice to be able to spread the parts out and keep the assemblies in order. Get a box of zip lock bags to hold parts and assemblies, mark the bags with a sharpe and you are set. I would not use carpet- fibers and such, plus it will get soaked with fluid and wont keep things clean. A nice flat wipable surface would be best.

A transmission holer would be good- I didnt take the time to gfab one up, but in hindsight it would save a ton of time trying to get the various drums, supports, washers and seals to slide into place if I had the trans in a jig to hold it upright.

Get some petroleum jelly for assembly.

You do need a INCH/lb torque wrench.

Operahouse - what parts failed in your transmission? Were they common failure mode parts or a random occurrence in your opinion? As for shift kits, the one I was initially considering was just the Sonnax one for control pressure. Hardening the bore seemed to make sense, esp if I could discern any taper or other out of round condition. I'm interested in knowing what people's transmission failure experiences have been.

Chris

I cant wait to follow this rebuild.
I had my A4LD, 160K miles, well maintained, (never touched still working when pulled), 93 Explorer trans rebuilt by a guy who had been building Ford autos for HD applications for a long long time.
All hard parts were replaced and every possible update was performed. I dont claim to know much about building a durable A4ld, but I figured I could chime in with my experience thus far.

Transmission was installed in my BII last year, truck was onverted to a automatic at the same time including trucks PCM and necessary wiring. I used the floor shifter from a 2wd 84 BII, Explorer kick down cable and BII floor pedal assembly and master cyl blockoff plate :)

The Explorer a4ld was fitted with a 84 ranger shift arm, to work with my bell crank and floor shifter.

I cut the Explorer metal lines about 3-4" after they leave the trans & radiator. I flared the 4 end fitting pieces. I got the HD highest temp trans cooler lines I could get, routed the lines through the frame and to the radiator. I mounted a Hayden motorhome trany cooler in series with the stock Ford 3 core aluminum Ex radiator, 11 blade fan and HD clutch. I also replaced the Ford transmission mount and the T case gasket.

The torque converter was tested for hub runout and it was a HD braised unit from a local performance builder.
I believe the front pump seal of choice was a brass unit.

The A4LD works great! I use it or DD, towing, and 4x4ing. 4 months after install it blew a front pump seal.
New seal was pushed in and the converter was replaced, excessive hub runout.
Has been working fine ever since.

I have also added the aluminum pan with drain port and sender port. Autometer phantom trans temp gage.
I use the motocraft A4LD filter and change the fluid regularly.
I do have some sheilding beteen the exhaust and shift solenoids, and the trans cooler lines and headers.
I also purchased the AutoFAB transmission mount (WOW what a difference).
The tempature stays between 135-150 degrees under regular driving, has seen 180 when towing.
I plan to get a better cooler and possibly a aux fan I can flip on.

The trans should hold up, I ma hoping for at least 100K. I see a C5 in my trucks future however (trail rig).

Since my rebuild I have heard stories of the A4ld being rebuilt with all the guts of the later model automatic, and it working very well, while still retaining the computers 1-2 shift, 3-4 shift and converter lock up.

I am looking forward to getting the Apten chip to elp with the shift points. OD is pretty useless on the street in town, with 33's and 4.10 gears a little room for improvement is to be expected. Also the BII floor shifter likes to jump from D to OD wheen wheeling...possibly the bell crank and solid shift linkage with the BII body flex is too much, the Autofab mount helped greatly.

The a4ld can be built to work well and last if cared for, at least thats what I keep tlling myself! hahaha so far so good.....

Ok here's the promised tool list:

Tools For A4LD Rebuild

Required - Front Pump alignment tool set (available aftermarket or as part OTC 74P-77103A-H (The C-3 Ford Toolset)

Clutch Spring Compressor (aftermarket)

Measuring tools - dial indicator and depth micrometer or caliper with ability to measure depths, flat feel gauges to measure clutch pack clearances. Optional - inside bore expansion gauge set and micrometer to measure valve body bores.

Torque Wrench capable of 10 ft lbs readings accurately (1/4 inch drive) an one for 30 ft lbs (3/8)

Other tools:

Bench mounted transmission holder (not at all essential, but nice)

A4LD Bench Mount Adapter
OTC 93T-77002-AH

(Or see OperaHouse post below about using an engine stand mounted to the pan bolt holes - great idea)

Extension Housing Seal Replacer (Can be improvised, part of the 74P-7000 C-3 toolset (2WD)

Extension Housing Seal Remover (can be improvised) OTC - 77L-7697-E (2WD)

Extension Housing Bushing Replacer (can probably be improvised) OTC - 77L-7697-F (2WD)

Convertor End Play Checking Tool (useful for checking if the end play is acceptable if you plan to reuse the TC, or checking the work of the rebuilder. If you are buying a rebuild and trust them, this tool is not necessary) OTC - 80L-7902-A

Neutral Start Switch Socket (Thinwall socket will work just fine) OTC- 74P-77247-A

Lip Seal Protectors (Awfully nice to have on reassembly but not critical) 74P 77548 - A, B

Front pump seal remover (for use with slide hammer - a time saver - bu prbably any internal puller would be just as good) OTC 74P-77248-A

Overrunning Clutch Replacement Guide (again really nice, time saver - may not be needed on 4.0's) OTC- 74P 77193-A

Front Pump Seal Replacer (can be improvised)
OTC 87L-77248-AH

Front Pump Seal Staking Tool (can be easily improvised) OTC 87L-77248-BH

Thrust Washer Select Tool (still waiting to see on this) OTC 86L-70014-A

Servo Rod Selecting Tool (Still waiting to see on this) OTC 74P-77190-A

Shift Level Seal Replacer (easily improvised)
OTC- 74P-77498-A

Gauge Bar (For selecting 1,4 and 5 bearings/washers) can be improvised OTC 93T-77003-AH

Obviously, some snap ring pliers, a set of inside and outside is nice.

For the substitutions...

Bearing pullers, usual complement of tools, including large sockets (use as seal drivers, or better get yet actual seal drivers) A pilot bearing puller is invaluable.

I'm sure I have left something out, and I'll edit this as I find out what. You will notice that most of the tools are from the old 1974 C-3 tool set.

Chris

I had two failures in the OD. First failure was the welds on the OD planetary gear assembly. Next failure was the castle teeth on the OD drum that mates with the star washer adaptor. Suspect the star washer was bent and by a year later it bent even more. A cheap part that probably should be replaced every time. They easily get a bow of over 0.020 that isn't noticed. Previous rebuilder even left one friction clutch out of forward clutch. Also after over 50K, the OD clutch and HI REV were still 0.030 tighter than they should be because the replacement steel plates were too thick. Tranny fluid looked like black motor oil at the first 6 month change.

OperaHouse - Thanks. The heavy duty welded planetary for the OD was on my list (number 3). I recalled your post some time ago about the star washer, once once I had everything apart planned to replace it - seemed silly not to. The exploded view isn't very helpful, so I thought I'd wait until it was disassembled.

On that upgrade/replace list I plan to add the rear crank pilot bushing as a replacement too.

And so the list grows. Hope to start the teardown this coming weekend. (So you can see naked trannie pix).

Also need to get up lighting and stuff for the video. I am hoping to reduce this entire process into a video or DVD.

Glacier, I'd be glad to give you a few pesos for a copy of that video. I also plan on donating to this site to help the cause :)

My ?: Around how much does the tranny weight with all components inside?? Which way do you want to mount pointing up?

Also, if you want Autocad dwgs. done for anything (such as your fixture), I can do those as well. Just give me a sketch, and I'll make it look good. It's my profession.

An engine stand works well to hold the transmission. You can get a cheap one as low as $29. Nice that it has wheels and is a convienient height to work on. I used a three point mount to the pan mount with extra long bolts and additional spacer. Be sure to use an extra large washer on the pan face to prevent any surface dings. Remove the valve body on the bench or ground, and attach the engine frame pivot. Then you can lift it into the stand. Without valve body, fluid and TC the transmission weighs about 120#. Just a guess, I was able to do it alone. The tranny easily spins around on the stand as this seems to be the center of gravity. The official mounts hold it from the tailstock which seems awkward. The only need to get into the valve body area is to remove the center support screw which is easy enough with the mount in place.

The engine stand is a great idea- thks Opera

Eli- Opera hinted at it, but you need to get to both the front and the back of the transmission, also the bottom.
The ability to turn the trans up and down on the engine stand is a great idea.

Thanks guys. I'll see if I can borrow an engine stand, but don't mind spending 50 bucks for a new good tool.

Side note: I don't believe I've heard anyone mention the ATSG manuals? I just got mine in the mail yesterday and have only peeked inside. So far I like what I see. I paide 30 bucks for them from transmission exchange co. Don't want this to sound like a huge plug, but Spencer over there at txchange has been the only person that has responded to my multiple e-mails about parts, etc in a very timely and descriptive manner. There were a couple others that I'm still waiting for prices/responses, but they're the ones that wont get my biz. :p

I have the first ATSG manual, but not the upgrade manual from them. I have the FORD manual as well. I intend to get the ATSG upgrade manual. The ATSG manual covers the basics, the FORD manual is more detailed. (ATSG basically edits out of the FORD manuals).

Ok, I started doing some research on parts pricing. I do not have all the specifics but I was astonished at the differential in prices between some of the local outlets. Aceomatic for example quoted me $45 on an aftermarket heavy duty OD planetary. Transtar wanted $90 for the OE one, said they found it as good as the aftermarket HD units (maybe they liked the markup better?). Sonnax's website has the Reamer and jig for the oversized boost valve for $105. Transtar wanted $200 for it. Rebuild kits go all over the map, as they contain varying things. Tough to do an apples and oranges comparison as a result. I'll try and have more info tomorrow on pricing - just a caveat... SHOP around.

The engine stand comes with four L mounting brackets. These are basically flat steel with a long slot in it. On the end is welded a couple inch pipe section you pass a bolt through to the pan holes. I think I put a couple oversize nuts and a washer on to extend it out a little further. This may have been only because my bolts were extra long. On the engine stand is just a flat plate that you bolt these adaptors to. Three is just all you need to suport it. So the only thing you need to buy extra is three long metric bolts. The rotational section of the stand easily removes so you don't have to be supporting the transmission while you are putting in the bolts.

From what I have gathered, the planetary gear was only a common problem the first two years. Transtar has a rebuilt TC for about $120. Do most people really need anything better? Are you doing walk in with Transtar? A little wierd to deal with but I like their prices. Being able to walk in with a TC saves you $80 in shipping.

Opera - yeah I am fortunate, I have several suppliers locally (including Transtar) so I can do a walk in with whomever. There is even a TC rebuilding company (PDQ) locally as well. One trans shop I spoke with was for one reason or another unhappy with PDQ, I'll check into that before I'd buy there again - but have bought TC's from them before, and have no personal knowledge of anything bad or wrong with them. I'll admit that at the moment my knowledge quotient about the differences between TC's in terms of quality is limited - still have homework to do on that front. And for the record, for MY application, I don;t plan to go the Pro Torque route - too much money. If I was a rock crawler, I might - it DOES sound "state of the art".

Originally posted by Glacier991
..... Rebuild kits go all over the map, as they contain varying things. Tough to do an apples and oranges comparison as a result. I'll try and have more info tomorrow on pricing - just a caveat... SHOP around.


Glacier, don't know if this will help some, but the following text is from an e-mail from txchange company. I asked them what was the differences in all these different kits, so here is the answer I got, as far as how they are supposed to be marketed:



----- Original Message -----
From: "Spencer" <txchangespencer@earthlink.net>
To: "Elias" <eliasp@bigvalley.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: Question for seller -- Item #2456753076


Hey thanks, the kit does include the frictions (aka clutches). As far as kits go, the way they are supposed to be marketed is in the following order...

=seal-up kit (includes paper gaskets and rubber o-rings)
=basic overhaul kit (includes the previous plus sealing rings, metal clad seals)
=banner kit (includes basic overhaul kit plus frictions)
=master kit (includes banner kit plus steel plates)
=super kit (includes master kit plus front band, filter, front/rear bushings, modulator)

The kit in this auction is the super kit and is about as complete as they get. Only things missing are hard parts, washers and sprags which I have
never personally seen in a kit. If you do the complete HD package, that has the super kit as well as the cooler kits, the converter, and the transgo valve body kit (also comes with rebuild manual), so that pretty well covers
everything around the trans as well as the internal soft parts. At 01:29 PM
1/29/2004 -0800, you wrote:


For me, it kinda helped, but what one company markets, might be different from another.

I'm wondering which "washers" he's talking about that aren't included. All thrust washers?

Well, first go at parts shopping. My initial estimate of about $750 is going to be pretty close I think. (omitting certain tool costs).

I bought my parts from the new owners of Aceomatic, which is now called ATC Distribution Group. They were interested in the project and were very helpful. I have only gotten part of my list, but here goes.

Super Rebuilder Kit (soft parts, bands, bushings, frictions, etc) The soft parts (seals and gaskets) were Transtec - my brand of choice by far. Part 56007GBF $131.51

Adjustable Modulator wheel type - they swapped right out of the soft parts kit for the non-adjustable one. Get the WHEEL type adjustable.

Full set of new clutch steels Part 56139G 21.74

Reverse Low Band Part 56024 5.71

HD OD Planet Part A56580 44.21

6 pinion front planet - steel with hub & bearing
Part No. 56582G 71.00

Torque Converter * Part FM68HD 142.35

New Bearing Type Center Support
Part A56630B 71.06

Sonnax Sprag Update Kit 52.33

Cast iron Forward Drum 37.98

OD star washer 2.85

Flywheel Spacer 11.51

Thicker (.015 vs .009) valve body gasket set 4.41

#3 bearing - Center Support to OD 39.70
(this item is an upgrade from a thrust washer to an impossibly skinny torrington needle bearing - price NOT so skinny)

* Torque converter has brazed front fins, heat treated turbine splines, redone with upgrader stator with torrington bearings, then dnyamically balanced. A HD low stall unit.

Replacement rear planetary $55.31 **

Replacement rear ring gear 35 **

Replacement ring gear Hub 25 **

Rear Sprag 55.45 ** ??

Intermediate Servo piston 5.79

Overdrive Servo Piston 6.19

Superior Shift Kit 48.65

TransGo Shift Kit - A4LD JR 22.31

Solenoid 3-4 TechPak 20.48

Overdrive assembly tin plate washer 4.16

I still have a number of parts (thrust washers and bearings, clutch drums, (and a new pump from FORD) etc to buy. It's going to be around $750 to $850 when I am through. At least. [a damaged reverse low assembly hs added tothis! - the parts marked ** above ar replacements for those damaged]

ps. I'm thinking after THIS project we should do a "good enough" rebuild, and see how INexpensively we can go while doing a decent job. (g) [Maybe Eli might want to be the guinea pig on this one]

pps. If you have never bought a rebuild kit of o-rings, gaskets and seals before, you are in for a surprise. You get what looks like a "grab bag" of items, no labels, no explanation, nothing - it's a match as you go situation, we will address later. Also steel hard parts come wrapped in a corrosion resistant paper. Don't throw it away, instead cut it into pieces and put them in your tool boxes or tool box drawers. Works like a charm there too.

Okay.... I went out and picked up an engine stand (I just needed a reason, thanks Opera House!) and put it together. Bought some 8mm x65 mm bolts, washers etc, so I was ready to pull the pan on this puppy, remove the filter and valve body and low/reverse servo and mount it on the stand - which I have done. It occurred to me alng the way that for those sufferring the dreaded inititial engagement - in forward or reverse - "klunk" it might be a good way for them to see the low-reverse servo location and to see hw easy it is to get at it - and IT my friends IS the source of THAT problem - the seal leaks. So this thread might help someone solve THAT annoying (but non-serious) complaint as well.

I have a batch of photos to upload and put in here, so bear with me. This will kind of be the end of the preliminaries, and the beginning of phase two - tear down.

As we last left off with pictures, the poor trannie was in a wheelbarrow. This picks up there.

I rolled over the transmission and remove the pan... (note that on this transmission there was no heat shield, it wasn't from an Explorer where the heat shield is used.)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4071.jpg

Other than being right side up, this is what you will find under the Explorer if you remove the pan. One problem area that can be easily fixed with the transmission in the car is the low/reverse servo leakage problem - the delayed engagement in drive or reverse and the "jerk" on engagment. Here's the servo cover you need to remove:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4072.jpg

But before we get too far into this for those of us rebuilding the trannie, lets talk about making our lives easier. Auto trannies DO have a lot of parts - so as we disassemble this, let's bag them and label them. Lots of ways to do this - here's my favorite... baggies and a new version dymo paper tape labeller...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4078.jpg

So the pan bolts for example, go into the bag and get a label:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4076.jpg

Ok so, for those wanting to just fix the low reverse servo... it IS spring loaded, but it is not a strong spring... just be mindful there is a spring behind that cover, remove the cover bolts evenly.... and voila....

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4082.jpg

Here's the servo out of the bore. Replace the seals using a new version and your delayed engagement problem will be solved. Use vaseline lubricant (you know how to do THIS right ?) to carefully put it back in the bore.... make sure you first remove the gasket - it tends to stay on the valve body - put IT on the servo cover which goes on last after the servo body is in the bore.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4083.jpg

Next remove the shifter detent spring...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4079.jpg

carefully pull off the wires to the 3-4shift solenoid and the tcc solenoid - the wires stay with the tranny case so need to be disconnected.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4080.jpg

For those of us going on past just replacing the low reverse servo.... the next step is to remove the valve body - the "brains" of the unit. There are a zillion small longish bolts. I broke them all free using a 1/4 inch socket set (10mm again) and then, being lazy -did the unthinkable! on an automatic trannie - USED AN AIR TOOL ! (not a good idea usually). Made fast work of removing the 20 something bolts. (Don't try this at home!) Seriously airtools and an aluminum case trannie should rarely ever be used together. NEVER USE AIRTOOLS TO REASSEMBLE A TRANSMISSION!!!! I think too often people pass up cleaning the valve body - I'd recommend against that. This transmission was supposedly rebuilt 5 to 10,000 miles ago, the valve body was cruddy - IT hadn't been opened up and cleaned.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4084.jpg

When you remove the valve body, it will at first seem stuck, when it comes free it suddenly pops loose, so be careful!. There is a "Z" bracket on a valve plunger, it needs to come off SIDEWAYS - be careful here... not to pull up but sideways... this is the "Z" backet:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4085.jpg

NOW, we are ready to attach the engine stand. But lets look at what we have in bags - YOU DID follow my suggestion DIDN'T YOU?

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4087.jpg

Ok, the "head" of the engine stand can be separated from the stand. Do that to attach it to the trannie. The pan bolts are metric - 8mm. I bought 65mm long bolts and 2 washers - an 8 and a 10.... I used cardboard standoffs to protect the pan part of the case, like this:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4089.jpg

the head unit attached looked like this:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4088.jpg

and this installment ends with the trannie on the stand, for further disassembly:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4092-med.jpg

Just remember, that although it looks heavy, is a fraction the weight of an engine. The engine stand is a terrific idea - kudos to Opera House! When we start again here, we'll gut this transmission, and start comparing old parts to the ones we plan to add in! Bulletproof ? I don't know but we're going to try! Yah it's in the garden, GF was not happy about the trannie fluid leaking on her patio! (warning to guys married or living with women - put newspaper under the trannie!)

Yeah baby, naked tranny exposed! :)

This is greatly appreciated. My new manuals have made for some good reading, but a picture tells a thousand words.

Your tranny looks way cleaner than mine. As soon as I remove it off the truck, I will start taking pictures to show you guys how bad it looks and what failed.

?:
How much did your engine mount cost? Is there a specific kind/size? (sorry don't know jack about stands)

Thanks

The engine stand I got at Harbor Freight for $39.95 - it's a thousand pound stand - enough for any engine we'll ever work on... the trannie spins around on it easily.

Chris,

May want to put a big catch pan on the legs of the stand. You can bolt a plastic pan onto the legs and then use some disposable aluminum oven pans to catch the trans fluid that will drip out, both on disassembly, and reassembly.

Looks good.

Steve, good idea. Thanks! Maybe I'll use velcro...

You must be one of those guys who can work on an engine in a white shirt and not get dirty. I used a bunch of biohazard plastic bags marked with a sharpie. In no time my oily fingers were erasing everything I had written. Had to go to paper slips in the bags.

whats the fun in not getting dirty? When I get home from work i am covered in greese and grime

Well, I'd like to claim the "white lab coat" award for cleanliness in auto mechanics, but unfortunately my GF would rat me out in a heartbeat - she won't even let me wash my auto work clothes in the same wash batch as her things. In the past, I had resorted to Opera House's method of paper INSIDE the baggies. But - I got this Dymo thingie for Christmas, and it seemed like a great use for it - and hey - so far it seems to work! So chalk it up to childlike joy in using a new toy. Plus, it looks kinda snazzy and professional, no?

More seriously though, of most auto repairs, you DO want to maintain a higher degree of cleanliness in auto transmission work (than in say, brake work, or repacking bearings (g)).

On another note - I had intended to add the upgraded 3-4 shift solenoid. (The newer version was less prone to getting clogged causing shifting problems.) I did at least until I priced the new Ford part - a shift solenoid (I'm figuring to myself, probably 30-40 bucks - in other words twice what it's worth.) FORD quoted me $179. Yep, really. NO way am I going to pop that much. I'll make sure the old one is really clean and the add on filtration and attention to drain intervals should make this pretty much a no brainer... $179 ? who are they kidding????

ELI - I brought the trannie home and degreased and pressure washed it. I'd recommend to anyone to do that first - get rid of the worst of the grease and the crud. I also recommend removing the pan and draining the fluid that you can while it is still in the car. Put the pan back on (no need to use all the bolts) and then remove the transmission. Saves dealing with the excess fluid mess later - to a degree.

My trannie has been putside for a year and so has corrosion etc, I'll be sandblasting the outside of the case and bellhousing (blasting THAT anyway before shipping it off for machining) and tanking the main case.

I'm constantly doing homework, to figure out any possible improvement to this trannie. Some time back someone, I do not remember who, Aldive? first suggested the 4R55E went to a new spiral cut friction. I worried about it needing Mercon V and let it go at that.
Then SteveVB mentioned it again, and it's been niggling at my brain...

Since then, in various places I have read the why's (lowered hydraulic friction in non-engagement (read HEAT)) and better heat dispersion at higher speeds.... sounded like a winner to me. Did some more research and find out that they fit - some wierd issues with numbers of plates used in the later 4R's as compared to the A4LD's (fewer - even though the thicknesses seem to be the same odd... including 2 plate OD's) IF and I mean IF my thought about Mercon V is a legitimate issue, hell I'll just go with AMSOIL synthetic - covers both bases.

So my question is, does ANYONE know ANYTHING about this issue and subject? Any and all help happily accepted. Lately I think I'd buy an expensive dinner with some FORD engineer in their transmission department, I have SOOO many questions I cannot find answers to - just to pepper him or her with Q's I need to know the answers for. (WHY did FORD change this, how come this went from this to that, etc).

Chime in if you have even an inkling or a clue. Please.

ps. Since the A4LD didn't die, mechanically, in 1994, I'm now into the 4R55E for upgrade ideas - new territory with tons of Q's. (as if the A4LD alone didn't have enough - like why did FORD go to double wrap bands in the early 90's and abandon them a couple years later?) Plus trying to figure out legimate changes due to the differences in the new computer controlled trannies vs. plain old improvements that were backwards compataible. Sheesh. If you watch the progression of bearings vs washers inside the transmission it's difficult to understand. I mean is a bearing not inherently superior to a washer? Does a washer give you some added benefit (other than cost) as opposed to a bearing? If cost were not an object would you do all bearings anytime you could? Can I mix and match bearings from various years (assuming my end play numbers come out right) ?

Trannie nerdies share! (thanks) Trannie newbies, RESEARCH. We may be plowing new ground here - and then YOU share! ELI, you are front and center! I mean there are a few gazillion of the pre 95 S'Ploders out there that might benefit from some good answers!

This is starting to feel like "reverse engineering" the transmission in a way, but maybe that's what it takes.

Time for more teardown. I'm going to start bellhousing backwards to center support, then do the back end and the governor bore. Headed out of town a bit so tonight will just be the front end back to the center support....

We're on the engine support stand, and rotated to put the bellhousing UP. I'm going to remove the bellhousing bolts - FORD says to discard them in favor of new ones... we'll explore that a bit later. For now let's remove the bolts...
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4093.jpg
and then the bellhousing/pump assembly
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4094.jpg
with that removed we see a thrust washer atop the OD drum as we finally look into the guts of this beast:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4096.jpg
The thrust washer bearing surface is down, so let's turn it over:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4099.jpg

I am not some expert, but frankly the bearing surface looked a little scratched to me. Was going to replace it anyway, but lets mark that - thrust washer number 1- as a "bulletproof item number 1" - I wondered if FORD ever put a needle bearing here, but through the 4R55 at least, they hadn't. NEW though - for our rebuild.

Good time to go ahead and loosen the band adjustment screws... not tough to do, although you may just as likely remove the screw as the locknut when you undo it, that's ok...
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4103.jpg

I took this pic to give you an idea where the screw heads to... if you follow the line of the screw, you can see where it hits the anchor strut on the OD band..
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4104-med.jpg

Ok, now remove the servos.... OD and intermediate...
Snap ring plier time. Although, no where does it say this, but the snap rings are a not fun aspect of this job. Tough to get a lasting grip with your snap rings pliers, ANY size. The trick is to use a screwdriver and when you have momentarily compressed the ring, insert the screwdriver in the slot for it, and pry the right from there- the snap ring itself isn't going to be easy to get out JUST using pliers.. here a pic...
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/503/15286Dscn4100.jpg

See the little notch to the left of the pliers (7 O'clock position)? that's where to put the screwdriver.
Once the ring is out the cover does not exactly jump off - even though there is a spring behind it.... first one I used screwdrivers to rocker it up and out, then I tried using large pliers, easier and faster. You CAN use air, but hey, this worked and I didn't have to look where to apply the air - if you DO use air, make sure you limit the pressure to 15 lbs or so - no rocket covers please.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4108.jpg
Here is the OD servo cover coming off
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4101.jpg
Here's the Intermediate servo coming out
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4109.jpg
and here is it out
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4110.jpg

The reason we did this was so we can remove the first of the bands - the OD band. With the "binders" removed we can take the band out... first we take out the items which help anchor the band, and which apply the "apply" pressure. Needle nose pliers are handy, though if you drop one of these items, it's not headed far, the center support will catch it and you can retrieve it later. Here is the anchor strut
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4105.jpg
On the opposite side is a similar "Apply strut"

Now the OD band can come out. This was a '91 - with the double wrap band - and I think I answered my Q about the double wrap bands. I was told by some trannie folks that a double wrap applies more quickly for firmer shifts - but gosh in comparison to the big single wrap - it looks puny. No wonder FORD abandoned it. My advice - empirically? Use the single wrap. (93 up). Here's the band. IF you plan to reuse it, mark the anchor side somehow so it gets put back in the same way.... no reversing one once it's been used please! This one is gonna get replaced with a single wrap new band. Bulletproof tip #2

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4106.jpg

Ok, band out of the way, we are looking at the top of the OD or Coast clutch drum. This one has a one way clutch in it, try turning it either way and see. One way works, other way locks. When we remove it, we have the drum and the clutch pack inside - drum coming out:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4111.jpg

turned over, looking in at the clutch pack - this one has 3 plates in it... (standard 4.0 complement) IF I go to spiral cut friction plates, I'd say leave this one alone, the waffle pattern is ok to my mind- for most driving this one is engaged - I do not expect to find a lot of wear.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4112.jpg

Looking above at the OD drum - above -
(It's a crappy photo and I apologize) but do you see the copper colored bushing inside? A wear item. I have a replacement, but not sure how easy it will be to get the old one out and new one in. In my book, especially on a rebuild if metal was found in the pan, a replacement item, either the bushing or a new drum with a replacement bushing in it. Bulletproof item number 3. I'll mike this one and the replacment and show you more in the item by item rebuild.

Time for the notorious OD planetary here it comes:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4113.jpg

While in this view, I am not sure if you can make it out, but there is a large "washerlike" disc on the end of the shaft, with outer lugs on it. This one is pristine, but Opera House reported it as a problem area... replace it on rebuild. Bullet proof tip No. 4. Here's the planetary turned over -
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4114.jpg

This appears to be a HD one. Notice all the little needle bearings in the "nose"? How'd you like to have them contaminated with metal particles? (As small as they are a teensey particle would seem like a boulder in comparison) A "metal in the pan" replacement item if you ask me (e.g if your trannie had metal in the pan on rebuild to any degree, consider this a replacement item. Bulletproof tip item number 5 - new clean OD planetary.) This one was ok and from a trannie that looks ok, so I'll clean it and put on the shelf for the "inexpensve A4LD rebuild. The NEW one only cost $45 though - keep that in mind.

Next out is the OD center shaft assembly...
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4115.jpg

And here it is out - there is more than meets the eye here -we'l discuss this on item by item rebuild. There is an aftermarket item which "bears" on this, which is interesting. We'll explore that too on the rebuild.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4116.jpg

Finally, here we are at the center support - with a thrust washer - No 3. THIS ONE.... FORD did replace with a needle bearing type in 93 - so will we on our rebuild.
Bullet Proof tip no. (what? ) 6?
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4117.jpg

With everything else out, we can remove the pin and the OD apply lever - it comes out throught the valve body part of the case....

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4118.jpg

All right, we've completed this part of the teardown - to the case center support - which is a HUGE bullet proof upgrade item in itself... that's where this will stop for now...

Here's what we took out today
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4120-med.jpg

more closely...
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4121-med.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4122-med.jpg

Recognize the baggies ? (I'm nagging now, right?)
Next up - the extension housing and governor -

Extension Housing:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4124.jpg

Looking inside at the governor assembly:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4125.jpg

This aspect should prove interesting as a potential DIY repair item you can do with the trannie still in the car (with the tranfer case and extension housing off). We'll resleeve our govenor to steel when we do it (Bulletproof tip No. 7).

That's it for now, will pick up later next week - I'm for a bit of R&R.

By the way: Feel free to chime in with thoughts, ideas, questions we might like answered and helpful criticisms. This is a learning process for me, anyway. Like to try and make it one for as many as can use it as well.

Ok, 'm back, some new items, and ready to finish the teardown. I'll ask a moderator - I am thinking that after the teardown pics, I should start a "2nd part" thread, so the bandwidth needs for all the pics is lessened, as is the load time. Can they be linked later if the thread is worthy?

Ok a couple new items.... well one anyway, the other is being researched. I think I can use a high performance C-4 intermediate band. I'm gong to measure them both (A4LD ad C-4) on the drum. The C-4 band can be bought "TOUGH" (eg. solid band like low/reverse I think)
I'm starting to hunt across the FORD line.... esp with HP trannies. If anyone has ideas of knows of other parts that may work, let us know! By Sunday this thing will be all apart - then comes next the component rebuilds and analysis of what might be done to improve them, as we go. (And the special governor rebuild section). All help appreciated, ideas too, rumors as well.. Stay tuned.

[Late addition - well I got the C-4 band... built like a rock, solid iron band. And, it doesn't fit. Oh well. I tried!]

Glacier if i remember correctly you are going to need to remove the center support and intermediate drum to get the shaft out of the rear(govenor side).

Nice write up so far.

Steve it's ALL coming out this case is gonna be naked... even pounding out the rear reverse drum bearing race. I'm only part way thru the disassembly. (When done the case will be tanked and cleaned thoroughly). Once full apart, then it's time to evaluate the bulletproofness of each component before reassembly. I'd like to see the info sheets on the TransGo and Superior shift kits. Still willing to fax em ? I am impressed with the Sonnax fixes - will likely incorporate all of them.

Sure no problem on the documentation. I dont remember if you sent me a number or not- e-mail me the number and a time- Ill be in and out all day waiting for word back on some houses I bid on, but if I get the info this afternoon, I can do it this evening.

From you post you said from bell to center support and then you were going to work on the govenor side. Maybe Im not understanding you, but before you can work on the govenor side you have to remove the CS, and the intermediate and rev assemblies.
When you get the case clean- check the rear of the case where the rev thrust washer wears on the case. Be interested to see a pic of that area on yours.

I agree on the sonnax parts- I was impressed with their replacement boost valve.

I also think that every bushing needs to be replaced in a rebuild.

Steve VB wrote

I also think that every bushing needs to be replaced in a rebuild.
Steve I fully agree. If we're going to "rebuild" to a high standard we should replace any significant wearing part, or be prepared to justify why we didn't. I have the bushings and plan to replace all of em.

As for the governor, you can work on it with the shaft in place, as you might with it in the car. Not resleeve it or anything, but at least get at it. But you are right overall. (Your knowledge is based on "being there" in your rebuild and is appreciated!)

Anyway I decided to remove the rest of the case internal components, so will be posting pictures later tonight. Had a little surprise I found - be fun to share it...incipient failure...

Nude tranny pictures; does that mean they're "X" rated? :D .....OK, bad joke.

You invited opinions on the Merc V ATF earlier;
It's actually a semi-synth formula and I think Ford went to it for cooler running and to extend the clutch life. (It has more friction modifiers and is more "slippery") It also helps with TC "shudder", which late model Fords are plagued with. The sprial cut in the discs probably aids in keeping the lube film uniform along the disc face. Any xR55E parts that will fit would probably be beneficial, and I'd use the Merc V with the xR55E clutches.

Just my two cents, and I can't wait for more pics. Good writeup!:)

Thaks for the input! That's along the lines of what I thought.... wonder if I use 5R55 frictions in one place if I ought to use them throughout? and the TC ? Does it need to be 5R? Do they vary material to the fluid? I've never experienced shudder, but a stronger OD bore return spring (planned) should help that problem I think. (Sonnax again... I am appreciating them more and more).

I found this link ATF Specifications (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/automatic_transmission_fluids.htm) which in turn has links to the specs for both Mercon and Mercon V.

Also, there is this thread where we were discussing it and I posted a TSB on applications which require Mercon vs. those which require Mercon V Mercon vs Mercon V (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73415&highlight=mercon)

I'm attaching the chart for the TSB, but the quality isn't that great.

Excellent thread by the way :chug:

Great ! Thanks Dogfriend. Tha was what I hoping this thread could be, a collaboration - to the ultimate rebuild.

The chart came out pretty bad. If you really need the info, email me and I will send a PDF copy so you can zoom in and read it.

The basic info is that Mercon V was only used for certain applications starting in 97. That was the same year they introduced the 5R55E. They list some 4R44E applications (Ranger,Aerostar?) that also use Mercon V starting in 97.

Well I figured that if push came to shove I could use AMSOIL synthetic.... and cover all my bases.

STRIKE ONE - the C-4 BAND -

I wanted to use the C-4 intermediate band... thought it would fit (NOT) but here is why I wanted to use it...

The A4LD band is rubber banded to shape, it's flexible...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN4173_1_.JPG

Similar size.... not easy to see but the C-4 band is cast iron.... much sturdier...
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN4171_1_-med.JPG

Not to make too much of it.... but look see how much sturdier the C-4 is!
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN4172_1_-med.JPG

So... a worthy goal... frustrated.... dang. Now you know why I chased it!

TORRINGTON BEARINGS

Ok, you heard me wax enthusiastic about these guys. Never heard of 'em a while ago, but now I know a littl bit about them.... amazing thin needle bearings designed to take the place of thrust washers.... bearings instead of oiled surfaces.... reminds me of the roller cams on some 4.0 engines.... less friction and sooo thin... look...here is a Torrington and the washer it replaces

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4175.jpg

As for thickness?...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4176.jpg

Or better yet look here:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4178.jpg

The Torrington bearing is nearly as thin as the solid metal "thrust" washer !!! Incredible. A MUST on rebuilds on this trannie. In my humble opinion.

TEARDOWN - CONTINUED

Ok we'll finish the teardown today. Let's start back inside the case, where we left off at the center support.
The support is held in place by a lage snap ring and secured by a screw. Pry it loose from the case on one end using a screwdriver
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4143.jpg
then grasp the ring and pull it upward, the snap ring will peel itself out
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4144.jpg

The bolt is held by a nut inside the case.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4145.jpg


The bolt is an allen head, located in the valve body

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4146.jpg

It' easy to remove using a 5mm allen head socket
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4147.jpg

Once it's out the center support can be wiggled loose and brought up out of the case
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4148.jpg
and we can see now the top of the intermediate drum underneath
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4149.jpg

On top of the intermediate drum is a washer (or a bearing in later applications (93 on). We'll use a bearing.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4153-med.jpg

This washer looked a little scored - not bad, but like metal particles were in the fluid lubricating it

Now we can get at the intermediate band - it's just like before, remove the struts and wriggle the band up and out. It's tight space and this is a little tricky - I dropped a strut down inside and had to retreve it later
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4152.jpg


The drum assembly comes out as a "package", and it's slightly heavy

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4154.jpg

Now we see the forward ring gear and the bearing sitting on top of it. It is a torrington, though slightly thicker - it' #6
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4155.jpg


Here's a side view (bad pic I apologize)
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4157.jpg

Ring gear comes right out

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4158.jpg

On the back there is another bearing (#7) - it's the innermost outer gray ring (does THAT make sense?) - and yes - another bushing to be inspected or replaced (replaced on our rebuild - all bushings)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4159.jpg

This exposes the forward planet - which comes right out
(notice that is a steel 6 pinion - standard on 4.0's)
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4161.jpg

On cursory exam this one looks good

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4162.jpg

Now we are down to the "input shell" this is where it starts to get interesting
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4163.jpg

When I remove it, there is a thrust washer on the back, number 8 -
see the 3 tabbed washer sitting on the rear ?
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4165.jpg

When I turn it over I find this - bearing material shredded and largely gone - you can even see a sliver of it off one edge

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4166-med.jpg

Here's another picture of it nice huh ?

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4167-med.jpg

Look at the mating bearing surface on the back of the shell - yuck [as it turns out, a steel washer was left out of this rebuild - hence this failure - I'll point it out on the rebuild]
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4168.jpg

Since I am down to it, I'll remove the reverse band - seems almost like an interruption of discovery..
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn41701.jpg

We're looking at the reverse planet now inside the ring gear housing - on 4.0 models there is no snap ring retaining it

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4169.jpg

When I inspected it, I found this - galled points, and a hunk of a tooth just sitting there...and a bent support web...ow.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4181-med.jpg

Look at the backside - this is not normal... all chewed up
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4182.jpg

Caused me to reinspect the sun gear in the input shell - the retaining ring looks like it is loose and was chewing into the planet - note the teeth - damaged - replace time.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4183.jpg

Well, back in the case, you just have to suspect what's left isn't pretty... here is the ring gear for the planetary... I haven't pulled the output shaft yet...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4184.jpg

4.0 engine use an oil dam, it's next up to come out
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4185.jpg

Then you are at the ring gear and it's washers, front and back.... my pictures do not do it justice but let's just say that the front bearing is TOAST
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4186.jpg

Now the snap ring... FORD says not to reuse it....
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4187.jpg

with the snap ring out, the ring gear can come out...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4188.jpg

as you an see, there's large thrust washer on the back (which was more or less ok)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4189.jpg

The one inside was another matter - bad picture but use your imagination -Ugly damage
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4192.jpg

Last thing out is the reverse drum. It looks okay overall, but can you see the HUNKS of metal in it ? Whoa!

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286DSCN4194_1_.JPG

Someone asked for a peek at the back end, behind the bearing race - not a great shot but best can do...the wave washer is a problem child - this will get a special treatment in our rebuild.. this "wave washer is also reputed to be the genesis of the governor problems

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4196.jpg

I've flipped the transmission around, and removed the bolts holding the extension housing in place, I'm taking it off here
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4197.jpg

That clearly exposes the governor - which comes off with a couple bolts (more on the governor to follow later in this article)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4198.jpg

Here's the underside showing the fluid passages
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4199.jpg

And now I can pull the output shaft free of the transmission
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4200.jpg

Next out is the Governor oil collector. This can be a trouble spot for it has steel rings riding in an aluminum bore - we will resleeve his bore to steel..
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4201.jpg

This one looks good though - But try an old machinist's trick... a fingernail can detect incredibly small variations on a flat surface.. I "nailed" this one and it was good... you can see the resting place for the steel rings though...will sleeve it anyway
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4207.jpg

The bronzy thing is the back most washer... #11. This one looked pretty good.... minor scoring fom metal but overall not too bad. I'd not - on a "bulletproof" rebuild, ever reuse any washer, and this one will get replaced

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4202.jpg

Ok now we remove the last bits.. the modulator is held in place by a Y clip/clamp bolted to the case... this bolt also holds the heatshield. Do not lose this - FORD wants $19 for it!! Yes for a double headed BOLT !

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4204.jpg

Showing the clip/clamp off
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4205.jpg

If you do NOT want to drop a part, ANY part, this would be number one NEVER TO LOSE! The Modulator pin...
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4206.jpg

It easily falls out. SAVE it. Hell...CHERISH IT !

Next up the neutral/reverse switch.... Ford has a special tool, but a 19mm thinwall deep socket will work, mine was not hard to dislodge.....
Here's the two tools.... silver is the deep thinwall
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4208-med.jpg

the aftermarket fits, though with a lot of points....

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4209.jpg


I'll admit the FORD one is a better fit, but essential ? no...

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4210.jpg


Ok what's left are inside levers and the like... have to take the case (now VERY LIGHT) off the stand to get those out.

Here is the inside view of the main shaft - nut loosened, yu can se the retaining pin in the middle right edge of the picture - this is a PITA to get out...
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4213.jpg

Here's it, pointed out... I tried to remove it without success, so I sprung for a special tool... shuld have it in a couple days - for $15 it seemed worthwhile, we'll see..

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4214.jpg


I will add pix of that when I get it, just to be complete, and then the next thread will be component disassembly and evaluation - and case machining. Feel free to chime in with ideas - my newest one is C-6 seals in some places! (I know I never give up).

Chris

ps. if you think this thread is worthwhile let me know - o if you need to see something I ovelooked - it is a LOT of work to do thisa, and sometimes I wonder how many people are interested, or may benefit.

pps. For those awaiting governor info, that's coming next (that's for those of you with pre '95 Explorers - '95 and up do not have either a governor or a vacuum modulator, those functions now being handled electronically).

I've talked to many mechanics and the thrust washers around the center support are not really a source of weakness in these trannies.

Are the torrington bearings good to have? SURE.

Are they necessary when rebuilding an A4ld? No.. if you have the older style center support, just get new thrust washers (#3 and #4 I think) for it and call it good. My thrust washers around my center support showed very very little sign of wear after 85k miles.

Originally posted by slag
I've talked to many mechanics and the thrust washers around the center support are not really a source of weakness in these trannies.

Are the torrington bearings good to have? SURE.

Are they necessary when rebuilding an A4ld? No.. if you have the older style center support, just get new thrust washers (#3 and #4 I think) for it and call it good. My thrust washers around my center support showed very very little sign of wear after 85k miles.

IF anyone takes this route and keeps the thrust washers then YOU SHOULD MAKE THE OIL HOLE MODIFICATION TO THE CENTER SUPPORT- if it hasnt been done. There were identified oiling problems to the #4 washer, and before the factory replaced the washer with the #5 bearing the fix was to drill the center support to add a lube hole for the bearing.

Good points, both. The idea on this rebuild is to go "all out" - not saying that some of the avenues chosen for this rebuild are "essential". But as we go along these types of comments are most welcome, as with the responses they bring as well. Thanks guys!

Note: This thread will soon be ended an a new one started on evaluating component parts prior to rebuild. Old threads (like this one) will be linked.

i find this thread very helpful when my tranny goes out although not the same it is very helpful to know what is involved so i can hopefully rebuild mine

the guts of the A4LD are the same as the 4R55 and closely related to the 5R55, so they are more then just cousins under the skin. The big change came in electronic shift control. 5 solenoids in place of 2. Guts, same, or mostly. Valve body? WAY different... Governor ? Gone - in 1995 - in place of electronic speed control monitoring on the center support.

Chris, this thread is excellent. You almost have me convinced that I could do mine myself.

A little postscript... that nasty damage behind the rear planetary inside the ring gear? It appears that by 2000 FORD had replaced that thrust washer with a torrington bearing - I am exploring THAT possible upgrade too.

I am saving this space for a short discussion about snap rings. I am more and more believing that SNAP rings, of all kinds, are somethnig that you should NOT re-use. I have some pix to illustrate this, and I'll add them as soon as I get time.

Allright...newb question. Can you give a brief explanation of how auto trannies work or if you have a website that it explains it or something.

Better yet.... a great website on "How Things Work" and their description and explanation... try this link:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission.htm

Originally posted by Glacier991
I am saving this space for a short discussion about snap rings. I am more and more believing that SNAP rings, of all kinds, are somethnig that you should NOT re-use. I have some pix to illustrate this, and I'll add them as soon as I get time.

Considering the relatively low cost of most snap rings vs. the damage that can occur if one fails - I would put reusing them in the "false economy" catagory.

Hey thanks a lot glacier, I really appreciate it. That site is awesome...I've spent all night reading about everything I ever wondered about. Now i just need the experience :)

Well, as I write this I am already starting into th rebuild, but the onething we didn;t do in this teardwn part of this thread is tear down the pump/bellhousing. No a lot to it. Remove the pump allen head bolts (6mm)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4276-med.jpg

Here's the pump gearset and the pump body once removed

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4277-med.jpg

Here's the pump separator plate coming off with the pump removed
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4279-med.jpg

And the end of the bellhousing underneath

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4280-med.jpg

This was a rebuild... I'll show you in a bit how I know.... but the pump shaft showed ascarsof eccentric rotation (eg lack of beng centered)... I'll post a couple pics hoping to show it... here's the first, see the wear ?

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4281-med.jpg

heres the 2nd

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4282-med.jpg

And here is the infamous bushing - this one has had some wars... scarred

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4284-med.jpg

ok, I had been told this was rebuilt. But I KNEW it was once I had lookd in the bellhousing.
Like rings on a tree, the number of "stake marks" (4 per build) give it away. This seal shows 10 ...equals at least one rebuild.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/15286Dscn4286-med.jpg

We will be exchanging the bellhousing for one with a line bored bushing and a new seal.... so with this, the teardown is complete. On the rebuild I will try and show how to DIY parts of the seal and bushing replacement... BUT ....the only right way is to get it line bored.. on this point I AM resolute. Disgree if you like, but GET IT LINE BORED! Or be sorry.

Part 2 continues here:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=101571

I was doing some searching for a diagram of an A4LD, and I came across this one:
http://www.granni.de/images/diesunddas/features/feature2/getriebe.jpg

I'm reminded of the little stickers that came out back in the 70's for the Volkswagon dashboard (with things like "der Glissenflippen" for the wiper controls etc...)

wow chris great job on the explanation, as i've read and keep reading your diaries im amazed at how much confidence ive gained going into my rebuild...hopefully everything will go smooth...lol ya right, but anyway just wanted to let you know this diary is 100% a ok in my book thanx for all your hard work, keep it up :D

ike rings on a tree, the number of "stake marks" (4 per build) give it away. This seal shows 10 ...equals at least one rebuild.

Newb question here:

How do you know that these marks are from a rebuild?

Does a rebuilder stamp 4 slashes here every time he rebuilds a transmission?

I am lost how you got to this 4marks = 1 rebuild.

Thanks.

Generally you will stake evenly around the circumference. The FORD staking tool has, as I recall, 4 prongs on it. Evenly in my mind is 4-5 stakes. Either way around 10 is at least a one rebuild.

Staking is designed to hold the seal in place... it is not like notches on a gun.

Just wanted to say thank you for all the useful information on the A4LD. I had to rebuild the valve body and between your post and TN Explorer plus a little help from the ATSG manual I am up and running again.

Always makes me feel good to hear another success story ! Thanks !

On thread
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101571
message dated 02-28-2004, 04:50 PM
subject CASE
why was the end section bored out
he talks about a sleeve but I did not locate where he installs the
sleeve or see a picture of it.
can any one help
thanks

Is this the part number 56600-DJ for the drill jig ?

seems they are all out of stock
any one have a source
I checked several on line companies

400-0056600DJ
56600-DJ A4LD Drill Jig for removing the inner sprag race.

400-05621906K
56219-06K A4LD, 4R44E Center Support Tool & Sleeve Kit.

and where does one find that boring tool

thanks

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/A4LD_Drill_Jig_for_removing_the_inner_sprag_race_p/400-0056600dj.htm
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/v/vspfiles/photos/400-0056600DJ-2.jpg
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/A4LD_4R44E_Center_Support_Tool_Sleeve_p/400-05621906k.htm
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/v/vspfiles/photos/400-05621906K-2.jpg

said they were out of stock

It says that the first item is out of stock but the second one is in stock.

From the web site of the jig maker
It gave instructions on how to do it with out the jig
I followed those and I did get it out along with the thrust washer.
Funny thing is my inner sprag race has splines the full length of the
race, as shown from one of the pictures from Glacier991
So thats done, now I can order the other part
56219-06K A4LD, 4R44E Center Support Tool & Sleeve Kit.
I will post pictures later on my work and also my make shift stand which
works really neat for a wooden cheapy
almost to the point to clean and glass bead the case.
Thanks
post later

Could you post a link for those instructions from their website?

I put every thing on my server so I don't need to upload additional files to
the forum, and because I can not figure out how, lol
It is a pdf file
http://www.niftech.net/A4LD/56600B-01K-IN.pdf
Look under Installation Instructions and also line 2

I cant seem to find a place to buy parts online
I go to transmission specialties and they don't show
A4LD parts
Where can I buy sonnex parts like
56600B-01K kit
thanks

Call or email Transmission Parts USA to see when they will get the tool back in stock.

the fastest speed i can go is 45 mph, any faster and the a4ld begins to fight against its self. on disassembly i noticed that the intermediate drum would not completely seat together. (its the kind that locks together with tabs) could this be due to overheating causing it or a part of its contents to be out of round? why won't it seat completely? i counted/felt the frictions all engage but yet the assembly will not seat together completely. any suggestions could be apreciated