Just what you people want to see! More of my truck, hahahaha

This is a great idea, a Bronco II registry for the best Ranger based vehicle forum on the intraweb, the Explorer4x4.com forum.

I need a place to keep track of all my modifications, trails I visit, bugs I work out, and idea's I have so this thread will be just that!

I hope to see more Bronco II owners taking the time to share pictures and modifications in here with their own threads as well. Many of the BII projects on this site are still under major construction, so in time I am sure this sub forum will grow. I know I like to see every BII that is still out there, these trucks have alot of potential and have always been considered "an underdog" but in my eyes its a legendary Ford Bronco and the best, most fun vehicle I have ever owned. People who doubt them just don't really understand them.

So here is my truck:

Started life:
1988 Ford Bronco II Eddie Bauer 4x4
2.9L EFI, Mitsubishi 5 speed, BW 1350 "touch drive" e shift transfer case, dana 28 ttb front suspension, corporate 7.5" rear axle, 3.55 gears, 10" rear drum brakes, cardigan style driveshafts front and rear.
A/C, power windows, cruise control, tire carrier, auto hubs, rear wiper/washer

the only two options my 88 BII did not have from the factory were glass sunroof and center console with message center.


When i got the truck it had faded paint, worn out "orange eddie bauer" interior and some serious driveability issues

Then:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/2893bronco.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/2893broncor.jpg

Now-ish:

Drive train:
-1997 Ford small block 5.0L GT-40p engine (60K miles)
L&L solid engine mounts, Ford dual sump oil pan, Canton billet oil filter re-location adapter, Torque Monster Bronco II conversion headers, KKM intake with cold air induction. Ford 97 Mercury Mountaineer EEC-V computer (complete OBD-II conversion), 96 Mustang floor shifter with OD button.
-1997 4R70W automatic transmission
Modified Autofab urethane transmission mount
AOD output shaft and Advance Adapter AOD to BW1350 T case 5" adapter installed
-1993 BW 1354 E shift transfer case
-Custom explorer based drive shafts


http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/dsfront.jpg



Conversion thread on Explorerforum.com:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124626

Front:
-Dana 35 TTB (Ford I beam) 4x4 front axle. Beams modified for 3" cut and turn, approx 1" track width increase per side. 4.10 Precision Gear ring and pinion with ARB air locker. Custom length outer axle shaft on passenger side, passenger beam modified for high clearance. Pass side axle shaft slip yoke is welded and fitted with a custom steel coil spring, C clip eliminated.
-James Duff early style 2" axle pivot drop brackets
-Skyjacker 6" lift coils
-Skyjacker extended radius arms (bushings) and transmission X member
-Superlift Superrunner steering system
-Timken wheel bearings, Moog ball joints, PF carbon metallic brake pads
-Warn manual hubs
-Rancho 9000 shocks
-Superlift 4" rubber brake lines
-Custom Ford sway bar and quick disconnect

Rear:
-Ford 8.8 31 spline disc brake explorer rear axle. Converted to spring over using weld on spring perches, custom shock mounts
-4.10 Yukon ring and pinion, ARB RD-81 air locker
-PF carbon metallic pads
-Skyjacker 4" Ranger leaf springs
-Superlift cast 2" tapered lift block
-Rancho 9000 shocks
-Custom Ford sway bar and quick disconnect

Chasis:
-95 explorer brake master cylinder
-97 Explorer V8 Down pipes with factory catalytic converters w/ 4ea 02 sensors (OBD-II). Dual inlet single 3" outlet high flow muffler w/ 3" pipe over rear axle and straight out the back.
-Ron Davis custom "Nascar" aluminum 2 core radiator with fluid/fluid trans cooler (rad support modified for mounting)
-B&M transmission cooler
-1988 Bronco II fan shroud
-Modified BII gas tank and dual fuel pump system (OBD-II)
-BII transfer case and fuel tank skid plates, custom D35 diff skid plate
-James Duff receiver tube bumpers front and rear, PIAA driving light up front, billet license plate lights in back. Custom reverse light in rear bumper
-Hella H4 headlights
-Clear front parking lamps
-AutoFab fiberglass fenders
-Metallic blue paint

Interior (Ford "mocha"):
-90 Eddie Bauer (BII) door panels and headliner
-99 Eddie Bauer power/heated leather seats
-Husky front floor mats
-Painted dash, arm rests, trim, handles, etc to match mocha
-Custom white face BII gages,Autometer oil pressure, water temp, & trans temp 2-5/8" gages
-Garmin GPS, Radio shack CB, Tiger CB antennae
-Custom carpet, custom cargo liner and hold downs, custom center console, no back seat, custom racks for tools and supplies.
-97 explorer 2 way visors with lighted mirrors
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/Seats/view2.jpg


Other:
-35x12.5 Mickey Thompson MTZ tires mounted on 15x10 black mods (wheeling)
-Dura Last gold battery

Stereo:
Kenwood Excelon Mp3 head unit, Music Keg, Alpine 5 channel, 13 speakers.
UNGO alarm

Custom modifications:
-Custom front fender liners
-LED side marker/parking lamps
-Many wiring modifications front to rear, integrated 94 power distribution)

Now instead of listing everything I have replaced/rebuilt or customized (sometimes more than once!!) I will list the things that are still OEM:
-Pass side power window motor
-Rear tailgate wiper motor
-Rear spare tire carrier
-Side mirrors
-"Touch Drive" pushbutton 4x4 console and computer
-Most of the body and glass
That’s it :P

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/500/2893masher.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/500/2893muddy.JPG

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/500/2893waterfall.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/pictures/snow3.jpg

next project:
body diet and full cage

It looked ok before--what happened???
Kidding!!:D

Man, I still say to keep the white fenders--they have grown on me!!!

what if I remove the doors and have fiberglass half door inserts and then also white bed sides? hahahaha if the white fenders have grown on you just wait

Somebody got new shoes :)

35" x 12.50" x 15" Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ

I am SO impressed with these suckers, they are 1.5" taller then my worn out goodyear MTR's and they are SO QUIET on the street for an MT!! They ride so nice!! I will be testing them in the slush tomorrow, going wheeling.....

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/newmeat021007.jpg

More pics later

I am in love with MT and DC tires, I think I want to marry them

Those look pretty sweet!

New wheels too?

nope same wheels

I tried these suckers out yesterday, even in the DEEP snow (first truck since snow mobiles) they kept me moving forward, I had them at 12 psi, both lockers in low, and the BII could get right up on top of the snow and keep going...I couldnt go far because the other truck I was with was stockish and getting stuck up there means till spring.

FYI Slaughterhouse gultch and Buffalo Creek near Wellington lake = impassable still even with the last 3 weeks of sunshine

VERY impressed with these tires, on the highway, mud, snow, and water they make all the other MT's I have owned look stupid.

I have to get pics from the girl i was with on her camera

Any overall updated Pictures?

any pics of the girl? :p:

lol

only pic of the truck so far, we ended up doing more shooting then driving since both trails we went to were un -passable with snow (I could have made it but being the only truck capable I didnt want to risk it, so we went a couple hundred yards through the deep snow, first truck, only snow mobiles prior and then turned around) recovery bill up there would be $1500+

http://a974.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/21/l_4ef938ab01e7236fce80d0b2c77cee45.jpg

thats not me thats her son with the gun, we took her 4 runner as well, but its stockish for now, I am afraid i got her hooked.....shes ready to blow $3500 on a Camburg suspension for her 99 4 runner now hahaha


Tires are amazing, at 14 psi in the pic

Girl is more amazing, a full tilt all the time, she blows me out of the water!!
:eek: :confused: :eek:

How old is that dude?

new upgrade, Poison Spyder Customs 8.8 Rock ring, painted red

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/rockring1.jpg
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/rockring2.jpg

I love the red! Looks tough!

HOLY LIFT BLOCKS BATMAN! hahaha just kidding,

I like the red too, pimpin :cool:

yup 2" tappered blocks hahahaha until I get some custom springs or go 4 link they work fine

Thanks for the compliments, all accents on this rig are fire engine red, so shes 100% American

Is that 'fire engine red' the same color that skyjacker uses?

I like the skyjacker color, and I may use that color on my next suspension.

I dunno but I painted my Skyjacker arms too because the factory paint got all buggered up on rocks

This is Ace harware safety red spray paint to be exact

Nice pics. Is your transfer case leaking? HA HA
Like you said, I'd like to see all these B11s once completed listed here. As slow as my build is, it will be last. :mad:

Na thats from the explorer dripping water and just shop fluids
no leaks either truck (been a battle)

I spent Fri evening doing some work on the BII
I re-packed the front wheel bearings and torqued the spindle nuts
I also installed my F-150 spring seats to get 1-1/4" of lift
After a year with the V8 the Skyjacker coils have sagged about an 1" and the TTB was sitting a bit negative. The camber shims have plenty of adjustment in them to bring the now + camber back to 0
So in the morning I will be aligning the front TTB myself, toe and camber.

truck sits so much better now, before it had a slight rake back taller then the front. This was not good for wheeling at all, the rear springs would unload too easy, so now with the spacers it sits much much better. band aid until I go coilovers, new extended beams, dana 44 knuckles and long travel with the rear.

Saturday I attempted my own alignment on the truck, Tuesday I took it to Midwest Frame and Alignment, my friend Larry who has been aligning all my vehicles for years now

I got it so close!! My camber was off by 1 degree on both sides and the toe was really close aside from not centering the wheel.
Now its dead on, again $25 later (only charges me $20)
I learned a few things this time around so I think I can adjust my own caster, camber and toe myself from now on, at least on the BII

the truck is setup with 1/4 degree + camber on both sides
the toe is 1/8" in
drives perfect like this

I need new camber shims though, currently I am running the max correction shims 2.75 degree and I dont need them
With these shims its fine, but it could be better. I installed the 2.75 shims before I built ccustom beams which corrected my TTB geometry
I am going to try 1.5 correction shims, this will give me better caster and a better angle on the upper ball joint stud.
Currently I am wearing out ball joints because the angle on them is extreme, apparently you want them as straight up and down as possible, while retaining caster and camber

Next project is to rebuild my Superrunner steering, in the next coupld of weeks.
I am also building a new dashpot for the BII with a newer speedo (mine hops, 293K miles) and a V8 tachometer from an older BII (the earlier models had a V8 option on the back of the tach)

I also ordered copper header gaskets, I have exhaust leaks on both trucks, which means 4 gaskets = remove and repair 4 headers....should make for a fun weekend

The rush is on to make Moab 07

plan is to fix this stuff, make some sliders and repair my leaking radiator minimum before the trip

Approx 16,500 miles have gone by since the V8 conversion :)

1-3/8" front lift installed, 2wd F-150 spring seats installed under skyjacker 6" coils

truck aligned using Moog 2.75 degree camber correction shims

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/ttbspringseats.jpg

Drivers:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/ttbdrive.jpg

Pass:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/ttbpass.jpg

The correct location for the F-150 spring seat locating pin (against beam and radius arm):
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/seatpin.jpg

More action shots! It snowed like a beast here today, so expect more of the white stuff lol

Looking good. You have any overall side shots? How you like those RS9000's? I'll be getting my 14" travel ones soon, for my front mounted shock. Your's extended any (F250 mount) or you running stock location right now?

Currently the stock buckets and shock towers
I love my Rancho 9000x, they are the 9 way adjustable, I pretty much leave them on 6-7

I have some custom Winter built coil buckets and I planned to run the F-250 towers with some 8" lift coils (move the bucket up 1.5", gain some bump travel) but I may just run this for a year or so until go coilover with new beams and an engine cage

Side shots are coming, its snowing here again today, 12" over two days at my work

I just installed the F150 coil spacers on mine as well. Any noticeable changes in the ride?

My 6" skyjacker coils were starting to sag quite a bit with the V8, so I was hoping to just level out and not have my rear end so freaking high!

yes it does change the ride a little bit, the TTB is sitting at a diff angle and it wont take bumps the same, it tracks perfectly straight but will follow the crown in the road a bit, it corners just fine and handles far better then a factory BII ever dreamed of, Lets just say I still hit the speed bumps by my house at 45-50+

Side shot with spacers installed (much better):
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/B2side030207.jpg

(Yes rust & paint repair is coming, just not as important as some other mods)

Having a little fun at work, yup thats about as far as I am going this way unless I air down then MAYBE:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/b2ditch030207.jpg

This is a steep hill, this is also where my dad's F-250 was stuck, took us 3 weeks to get it through that last 3-4' drift, then the next day it snowed a foot:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/b2hill030207.jpg
The change in elevation from driveway to here is about 30', it gets steep

Drift city:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/b2drift030207.jpg


This is as far as she'll go with 30 psi in the tires both lockers, in 1 Low, the pic cant do the hill justice, I love working up here. I am trying to get to the barn so I can drag more parts home for weekend projects

Looks like I will be hiking

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/B2side030207.jpg

:thumbsup:

Your at about the same height I am with 35's

http://www.villanmotorsports.com/BIV/35s%20002.jpg

I'm running the RS9000X's all round too. I've got quad 12" travel ones up front and I'm running 4' lift F150's in the rear.

I'll be running the 12's out back as soon as my 14's come in.

BII = keep it low and clear big tires, nice stance!

BII = keep it low and clear big tires, nice stance!

I've thrown a 3/4" spacer under the coils since that picture. I didn't like the forward rake I was getting and the spacers adjusted my camber better. Nothing like having the stock bushings on the upper ball joints.:D

BII = keep it low and clear big tires, nice stance!

X2!

Nice stance by the way!

my stock bushings are IN THE BARN

This weekends project:

new copper header gaskets from WAPP. I took my ceramic header to ON track Performance to get their opinion about which to run to finally seal these up
I ended up with WAPP copper gaskets

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/gasket1.jpg

Problem:
They are VERY close to matching the port design for the GT-40 P head but not exact, so I will be port matching them myself, likely with a dremmel and carbide bit. these gaskets are for up to 95 Mustang 5.0L, there is no listing for the GT-40 or GT-40 P heads...figures

here is the material that needs to be removed, there is plenty of copper gasket all the way to the bottom edge:

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/gasket2.jpg



I am so sick of the exhaust ticking after having the TM headers on and off 4 times (4 headers total) we are about to make it 6

Once I am happy the BII is sealed up I will be doing the same thing to the Explorer, that truck is even worse wrenching wise!

Looks good. I like it. Stuff should be in the mail monday.

OKay Drivers Torque Monster header replaced with copper gasket! No leaks!!

I didnt not use the gaskets I got yesterday, instead I got some that fit the GT-40 p heads a bit better from a local Mustang shop this AM

First getting started, this is the old header complete with leaking gasket:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/torquemonster/copper/tmbefore.jpg

removed, dirty head, you can see it was leaking everywhere:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/torquemonster/copper/tmbareheaddirty.jpg

Parts removed:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/torquemonster/copper/tmpartsoff.jpg
header, dipstick, ac compressor, & steering intermediate shaft

Old gasket (no bueno):
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/torquemonster/copper/tmgasketbad.jpg

Head sealing area cleaned with wire brush:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/torquemonster/copper/tmheadclean.jpg

Now the new copper gasket in place ALMOST fits the GT-40p head but not quite:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/torquemonster/copper/tmcopperbefore.jpg
the ports are up just a bit too high

The solution = oval out the mounting holes:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/torquemonster/copper/tmcopperafter.jpg
I used a round file, took all of 10 minutes, now the ports line up perfect

In place almost done!
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/torquemonster/copper/tmheaderdone.jpg

I got the truck up to operating temp (water reaches 210, thermostat opens, drops to 200) then torqued the header flange and down pipe again. Thread lock was used on all bolts. Dipstick, plug wires, ac compressor and steering shaft re-installed:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/torquemonster/copper/tmheaderdone2.jpg

Once the header was in place I did have to bend the copper in two places with a screwdriver so my spark plug socket will reach 100%.

Robert re-designed the conversion headers from the prototype set I had installed previously, the header I installed today is brand new (have had it for a while) the bolts are easier to access this time around and the fit around the firewall and steering shaft has been improved.

NO MORE LEAKS!! That ticking was getting OLD

Total time was about 3.5 hours from time I took tire off to putting the tire back on and cleaning up

Now to do the passenger side.....

Good Job!!
Those copper gaskets will do the trick for sure.

I wish I had had known to use better gaskets when I installed my headers- just had to replace my driver side gasket last week. It's not too bad, but a couple of those bolts are a pain to get to!

The BII looks good!

hell yes the bolt on the very rear of the header flange towards the firewall is 10mm open ended wrench, 1/8 of a turn, flip wrench over, 1/8 turn, repeat...but it can be done just takes patience. The dipstick holding double sided stud is tricky as well, it's 14mm and the same deal, open ended wrench only. 5 of the 8 can be gotten to with 3/8" drive and a 10mm 12 point socket for final torquing


I wish I would have known too! I have two trucks with the TM headers....hopefully this will help others
Doing the pass side this afternoon, I am so looking forward to the non ticking BII

Passenger side is done, took 2 hours. 4 of the bolts on the passenger side are open ended wrench access only.
The best advice is to get the header & gasket into position when getting ready to install. Install the 3 hardest to access bolts loosley and tighten them together and slowly. You can get them snug with your fingers and then follow up with the wrech.
This allows the head of the bolts to clear the header tubes.
Then install the remaining 5 and slowly torque them down working from middle to outside.

The EGR on the TM headers uses a 1" and 1-1/8" wrech, makes short work of this.

NO LEAKS, truck has been run to tempature and then the headers re-torqued. Thread lock used on all header bolts

Please oh please let it be sealed for good.
I have now removed and re-installed TM headers 6 times, its not that bad really

New scar

Did a little trail by the name of Carnage Canyon yesterday playing hookie from work. This girl i am dating is REALLY hooked on wheeling in the mountains so we have been going a bunch.

I got the BII into some VERY hairy stuff yersterday, some of it really pushing the limits of what shes safely capable of. This is a NO NO when you are wheeling alone. Luckily we got out safely with minimal damage, unfortunatley I didnt get any pics of the truck off camber or with a tire 4' in the air, we were too busy spotting ourselves to try to get back onto the trial safely.

It is time for a cage and to chop up the bronco II body, with the lockers and 35's I can easily get myself into some real trouble.

A rock left a nice mark on my door, I watched as it went by and figured the dent would be far more serious then this, but she got through the whole day with just a busted headlight and a new deep scar in the drivers paint.

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/Julee/carnage1.jpg
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/Julee/carnage2.jpg
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/Julee/carnage3.jpg


Going back again this weekend hahahaha I will be sure to get some pictures and video next time

friggin $80 headlights

From your tale--I am just glad you are back!!

ha ha edit

Ouch!

Glad to hear that's all that happened.

Ouch nah its no thing shes got plenty of these kind of marks in the paint....

going back up there this weekend for some more punishment but this time I will be joining a group of Heeps

your truck is prety sic we r going to do the same to my brothers but with 33s instead

Thanks!

33's do well on a BII

Been wheeling alot lately, more carnage canyon
Also hit Slaughterhouse Gultch this past weekend, but the trail is still snowed in

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/pictures/fourby/carnage.jpg

short video

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=2016271040

STUCK big time stuck time

DId a little trail called China Wall last weekend. My girl Julee loves MUD (not my thing) so I went for it, right down into this ditch without checking the depth first, almost out of it when we hit a rock and high centered.

This stuff was like concrete mix and the BII was going nowhere fast.
Took a 90 4 runner (stock) with a strap, an hour of digging and rock stacking, lots of dirty clothes, and 7 people to get her out. Came very close to leaving her up there for the night. Thiws picture was right when it happened before all the tire spinning, shes covered in dark brown chocolate mud right now, I detailed the interior yesterday but this mud can stay on the outside for a bit, I have only been stuck stuck like this in the BII 3 times to date so its like a trophey...after spinning the tires a bit and trying to pull her out she sunk up to the rockers in the goo

A winch is my next mod

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/b2stuck.jpg

I am now a spotter and she is a co driver (BII never looked so good)
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/juleeb2.jpg

Camera was out of memory so thats all we got from this trip....been 4x4ing every weekend now = :)

Hi Julee! :D

Hey Jamie, add me as a friend on your myspace!!

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/b2stuck.jpg

I am now a spotter and she is a co driver (BII never looked so good)
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/juleeb2.jpg
[/QUOTE]

I'll second that:D

I think they both look good.

I'll 3rd that!

can I 4th it or is that too much?

I put a ring on her finger and she put one on mine, its official my future wife :) Wait till you see what we are gonna do to her 99 4 runner limited...can you say Camburg long travel?

She will be attending Moab with me hell yes!

Awesome! Congrats!

Whats the date?

no date set yet but it really cant be soon enough...only took me 34 years to find her...geesh! I knew there was a reason I never settled

Yeah!!!!!!
Congrats Jamie--you deserve to be happy.

This is a great day!!!!

I got the coolest ring you guys have ever seen, its Tungsten Carbide Steel and very shiny, we went to breakfast on saturday and I said "oh look a jewelry store, lets go look for a ring for you" We picked out two rings in about 5 minutes, and they both fit us perfectly without even sizing!!

How is that for meant to be?

Never been so happy in my life........ and let me apologize now for my lack of involvment on the board lately, its spring fever :)

http://a402.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/17/l_824108588b96e9dd82c521f3abc70d21.jpg

Congrats! :) Nice catch!

More mud, SLaughterhouse Gultch 04/14/07

Julee REALLY likes mud so I let her have at it

She dented my door pretty well and we overheated my rear ARB until it was leaking air and the rear diff started spitting gear lube out of the vent tube...fingers crossed the ARB is okay

I will now be doing a couple of mods to the 8.8 to keep the temps down
Last thing I want to do 1 month before Moab is pull my 8.8 apart......


Video:
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=2022926770

Those are some good videos. Did she ever get over that ledge?

I don't use MySpace as much as I should. My only "friends" are my wife and a friend she grew up with. I guess I should add some friends from "Serious Explorations". I'll send you an invite. I'll be the one in the cowboy hat (I'm not a hick, but I was at a rodeo and had to dress the part :D ).

not that one, no. But she did climb another just beside it that I was unable to get up in 3-4 attempts. Of course my GF just walks right up it....she picked a better line, she's a natural!

Oh and thanks :)
more videos coming soon enough

hell yeah man,that is awesome.i have to beg my wife to drive sometime's.she'd rather ride and watch.but i gotta train her,so i can get her a rig. since uselly it just me and her that goes out.yah know. you have one serious sweet bronco II man...congrats!

wow okay all yesterday's posts are missing due to the ef.com error

Anyways in prep for moab I had to rebuild my entire front end yesterday
My slip yoke runs a spring in it to keep the passenger side axle stub shaft seated in the diff. This is because my ARB locker will not allow the factory c clip to be installed.

Last Sunday we went wheeling and I blew up the assembly. I had assumed the welds I made had failed, but I found out yesterday they did not fail, they were just in the wrong spot :P

So I rebuilt the whole deal yesterday.

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/axle/ttbpass.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/axle/ttbfront.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/axle/ttbshaft.jpg

New:
Timken bearings & seals
Hawk Carbon metallic pads
rotors
U joint on pass side
new/used slip yoke stub shaft, welded

Cleaned everything up and she's good to go, 9 hours of work.

Today I install my new to me BW 1354 T case (mine is on its last legs, estimated 200K miles on it, it has been behind 5 transmissions in my truck and 3 different engines so it has sure seen some abuse.

The unit I am installing comes rom my buddy Joe Dietz (on this forum)
he had our friend Lynn at Performance Transmission rebuild it less then 1000 miles ago and then he converted to a manual BW 1354 t case.

truck will be ready ahead of schedule to hit the road tomorrow and be looking pretty for the pictures hahahaha

:)

This is Julee's new 07 FJ Cruiser, we took it to Slaughterhouse Gultch on Mothers day (same day I broke my Sh*^), this truck continues to impress me they are a GREAT platform. Nice and wide with a 105" wheelbase, Low crawl ratio, full skid plates, rock rails, and of course its a Toyota....She cannot wait to lift and lock this sucker. We saw 3 other FJ's on the trail last Sunday.
So much fun to drive (it actually has some balls, 4.0L DOHC 24V 60 degree V6 239 HP)............... which for me, is what Toyota has always been lacking

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/Julee/JuleeFJ.JPG

FUN EXPLORER FORUM FACT:

The transfer case I am installing my truck today comes from Joe Deitz.

Joe bought his 93 Eddie Bauer new from Ford in 1993 and drove it/wheeled it for 160K miles. Then he ripped out the drivetrain and converted to a rebuilt 5.0L Ho with a 4r70w trans and 1354 manual t case

The old A4Ld that Joe had from the factory got rebuilt by Lynn at performance Transmission and installed in my BII when I converted my BII from a 4.0L 5 speed to a 4.0L Automatic (for towing and 4x4ing, plus I hate the Mazda 5 speed and clutch)

That auto transmission was then rebuilt by Transwerx in CA after I used it for 2 years and just about blew it up. When I converted to a V8 this transmission was traded to my buddy Bill in So Cal (Rangerx) for some parts.
That Transwerx A4Ld is still going in Rangerx's - wife's 93 Explorer sport.

A few years into my 4.0L conversion I ruined my 93 4.0L OHV block, the JB weld that had held for years failed and I had a cracked block.

To get me going again I dropped Joe Deitz's old 160K miles 4.0L OHV into my BII, I believe I gave Brett some parts or $$$ for the engine which he had gotten and stored from Joe.

I ran that engine to 200K something miles, then ripped it out when I converted to a V8.

This engine was shipped to Colin (Froader) in CA for the cost of shipping.
It runs STRONG as all well cared for OHV's do, synthetic oil since 5000K miles evrey 3000 miles, new gaskets, new waterpump, new oil pump, etc Joe is incredible at prevenative maintenence.

Froader and Section then loaded up Colins 5 cyl running 4 door on the flatbed along with the engine and drove to Texas, this engine was then installed into Froaders Explorer on the web cam

So now I have Joe's t case, the final piece of his OEM 93 drivetrain....

where will this sucker end up? hahaha
BW 1354 e shafts are not exactly "in demand" these days

Now that is what i am talking. no b.s. there, just good ol fashioned american know how. European crap "can't touch this"

Thanks man! My blood runs blue

Okay good news! I am almost finished with a 91 Explorer project, nothing fancy just removed the engine and transmission, both are being replaced...just waiting on brett to rebuild the A4LD

So I backed that 91 out of the garage and FINALLY have the BII back in there
I broke the truck in Moab earlier this year ....my front end went KABOOOM a few times...I suspect locker or spider gear damage, I spotted a U joint that fell apart and the pass side axle shaft has been missing since day 2 in Moab.

Shes going under the knife! I am trying to make a Holy Cross CO run on Sept 15th....12th annual broncos run Holy Cross trail...oh baby I would love to attend as I have always wanted to do Holy Cross

So today the front diff is coming out......

do i hear a plan for SAS coming???

SAS = $4500+ (that sucker is on hold, winter project?)

If I go SAS I am going long arm, coilovers, hi mount steer, D44, 4.56, ARB, all new everything on the axle....

So lets see if we can get some more time from the TTB if possible....

FUN EXPLORER FORUM FACT
Haha, Jamie, I missed this when you you first posted it! Classic!
Severeal times while sitting around the campfire at Truckhaven, we've had similar converssations, about who is running who's parts.

Glad you got back on that B2 :thumbsup: . Hope you make that run :salute:

Good news! Differential is out of the truck, took all of 45 minutes
I have my radius arm clearanced AND the bolt that holds the 3rd member to the beam has also been clearanced previously so I can drop the diff without removing the radius arm (I will get pics)

This makes it extremely easy to remove my front diff

The good news is I found the U joint on the drivers side knuckle KABLOOEY
I was so focused on the issues I was having in Moab with the pass side I believe I never even saw this damage.
The differential, gears and ARB locker look 100% A-okay

So I will be putting the TTB back together (after a bit of bench testing the ARB and see if I can get a C clip installed on the pass side)

I did get a chance to give my undercarriage a once over, the truck has been parked since Moab basically.
I found some more Moab carnage :)

- First the t case to transmission is leaking a bit, if you remeber I installed the new t case like the day before Moab just like normal. So I am going to re seat the t case.

- One of my rear most body mounts is in shambles, as in completely came apart :) Looks like its time to finally install those last 4 cargo area urethane body mounts (was avoiding this for a bit)

- The pass side power window is having some trouble going up and down hehehe 280K miles will do that I guess (how bout no more doors or half doors with soft windows??)

-My transmission shifter linkage slipped on the cable. The 96 Mustang floor shifter I used and the cable setup was meant to be temporary, so I guess its finally time to go Art Carr, I have trouble getting into Park or 1st (one or the other), not having 1st off road sucks.

-The rear diff has an air leak in it from my ARB, CROSS YOUR FINGERS ITS A SIMPLE COPER LINE/FITTING not ARB failure!!)

-I need all new tie rods in my Superrunner kit
I am going the path of Perry and will be rebuilding the superrunner kit with bearings and replaceable tie rod ends.

-I need new ball joints up front again. Moogs seem to last about 2-3 seasons on my rig before they are looooooooose
35's + locker + abuse = ball joints just cant hang

Wheel bearings and all other U joints good.

and of course the Ron Davis radiator still leaks...

BII needs some work! but these are simple things so she should be trail worthy in a couple weeks!! The rear ARB leak may be the big one, I am guessing a new seal at worst but I can usually get away without my rear locker on most trails so that may have to wait a bit....

I am considering a frame off cab swap for my truck as well..I am shopping for straight cheap BII bodies....it might finally be time to retire the old sheet metal :)

just noticed the hyperlite sticker in your back window.. nice! i have one in the back of mine too, same spot, different sticker. i do have that sticker though :-)

-jenni

and see if I can get a C clip installed on the pass side
Why do you want a c-clip there? You never did the spring trick?

My BII has the Hyperlite sticker the Ex has a Liquid Force :) I ride both brands these days :)

Bill,

I did use the spring trick, but under extreme travel conditions the inner shaft will still pop out of the diff (like say 65 mph down a dirt road in poision spyder mesa). It is a matter of getting the right tension spring with the right length in the slip yoke, I have come close to being perfect but it still seperates once in a while. Brett has a newer style ARB locker in his front diff with a c clip (I dont believe I can do a c clip with my older style ARB) but if I can it would solve my problems. Brett has a very similar set of beams and suspension and does not have issues with the slip yoke coming apart.

If I can mock up some sort of external axle shaft retainer or get a c clip in there, now would be the time.

Hows So Cal treatin ya these days?

okay TTB is rebuilt, new welds on the dust cap this sucker is not coming apart again!
I replaced 2 u joints in the front axle shafts and both differential grease seals.
All is well

I next removed the skid plate and gas tank. I found my gas tank pressure sensor was broken and melted on the exhaust. I picked up a new sensor from Ford yesterday, $60
the broken body mounts on the rear of the truck allowed the body to flex enough to break this sensor off of the gas tank.

I then removed the 4 rear most body mounts....one of them I spent 2 hours on with a sawzall and chissle. Note to self get a torch.

Today I am replacing the 4 body mounts and fixing the gas tank.

I will be tearing into the rear diff this afternoon in hopes to pin point the ARB air leak. I am also replacing the passenger side window motor and door lock actuator, they are overdue.

Both doors require a bit of welding also

Pictures coming! I will be renewing my emissions later this week if all goes well, the truck has sat long enough for the stickers to expire.....

You sir, are a wrenching machine... Are there any bolts on that BII that you haven't touched? My dad has a '66 Triumph TR-4A that he did a full frame off restoration on in '79. There are 4 bolts on the vehicle (rear carrier capscrews) that he hasn't touched. Crazy...

not anymore

the only parts that were factory before this week are:

4 rear body mount bolts
pass side window motor
door hinges
rear wiper motor
some wiring behind the dash

after this week you can scratch the pass side window motor and door lock off the list.
That is a complete list! This entire truck has been rebuilt, several times in some cases. At last count this is the 7th transmission I have had in this truck (hopefully the last!) if that tells you anything. She was my "learning vehicle"

the body needs alot of attention, but thats all part of the plan...frame off with lots of tube and a body diet is coming real soon....

I still have 7 trucks at my house every night hahaha 1 belongs to Brett, 1 is for sale...the other 5 we keep!
I maintain a fleet!

The yellow FJ is getting LIFTED this month

Hope you get her back on the road soon!

My BII is temping as my daily driver again, but she needs some attention as well.

Are you still planning on a chop, solid, etc?

solid down the road, I patched the TTB together...Brett is still trying to sell me a built D44, ARB, 4,56, new everything and it has the welded on ford wedges so its perfect for me since I want long arm. My TTB already took a bunch of $$ so it would be nice to get a couple years out of it! In Moab even with my 18" or so of travel it was looking smallish compared to the solid axle rigs...hahahahah keeping up with the jonses

I doubt I will chop the BII but it wont have glass, doors, or a tailgate! Soft parts, half door inserts and lots of cage instead.....

Tube bender donations being accepted

Okay progress, I actually went 4x4ing on Saturday it did GREAT

The front end STILL POPS in 4x4 low, meaning its loading up and then BANG
Doesnt matter if its locked or unlocked.

So I did some testing...all is well its my damn hubs!

My 5 year old Warn hubs are both slipping, this is odd! I would have expected to blow a hub, not have them slipping at times, but then I have never blown a hub so it did not even occur to me they could be the issue.

I am getting new hubs, this time the upgraded Jeep version...

35's + ARB = a few years of wheeling and slickrock = Kablooey!

So I did ALOT of work to the BII, I got all the bugs fixed, and it turns out the major issue I was having is the hubs! Thank goodness!

I replaced: pass side window motor (easy), the pass side door lock actuator (modified explorer one to fit, cost me nothing, BII lock actuator is $104), I rebuilt the front end, I refurbished the rear end, I serviced the transmission, I fixed a bunch of little stuff...then took her wheeling.

I got strapped 3 times, we did a trail called Slaughterhouse Gulch, I picked some difficult lines and slipped into a hole, got semi off camber another time. Julee's FJ strapped the BII 3 times! Julee wedged a rock between the ground and her frame in the FJ, I used the factory rock rails and my hi lift to get it out.
We ended up wheeling at night because work on the BII = late start.
it was fun!

I am going for emissions today...fingers crossed, she looks funny with 33's and explorer wheels....i'll get some pics

Now on to the next project!

Taking truck for emissons right now, the new Warn hubs are TWICE AS HEAVY as the old ones, aside from that they look identical.
worn out 33 MT's make for an interesting drive......

CEL is off for the first time since the V8 conversion 100% (I had a DTRS code before, appears to be fixed now)

What did you do to get rid of the DTRS code? I'd love to get rid of mine.

I have a DTRS code that consistently appears. It appeared when we were down in Moab and I used your code scanner. It will go away for maybe a day and a half and then return for another week or so. I forget the exact code, but it is something like DTRS range sensor input high.

I've been told that it could be a bad sensor...Or that I might need to install my OD/OFF switch (I still haven't done this). I've had the DTRS reset at the dealer, and everything was in spec.

Let me know if yours reappears!

Okay some pics

First emissions report, those tailpipe emissons are LOWER then this truck blew when it was a high state of tune 2.9L and 5 speed:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/emissions.jpg

3 amigo's, my 96, the new $1000 97 and the BII on worn 33's:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/3amigos.jpg

Bii with deerhoofs and BFG 33" MT's shaped like cones, also brand new Warn hubs hehehe
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/b2emissions07.jpg

The P0705 code is odd

It is a signal that is sent from the DTRS between R and N (exactly when light shows up)
I spoke with Ford yesterday, I have some friends at a local dealership.
Service Manager looked up Ford TSB on code P0705, it tells them how to diagnose the wiring circuit and possibly replace the sensor if all checks out.
Nothing about the computer, in fact they said this would rarely if ever be a computer problem

When I did my conversion I bought a brand spanking new DTRS (because I was getting this code) for a 98 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L AWD. I installed it myself and I still get this code.
I can shift the trans by hand and I still get the code, so its not my shifter/linkage

I am going to check my wiring from the DTRS to the PCM directly to make sure everything is 100% (Multimeter, check pin at PCM, check pin at DTRS

Then I will attempt to adjust the DTRS again, if I have to I will but the ford tool or have the service guys at Ford do it.

Ford suspects a faulty wiring connection first, then a bad sensor.

This is the only code I get so it sucks to have done the conversion and still have a CEL in my face.

The guys at Baumman engineering were familiar with this code when I spoke with them a year ago.
They said its a signal from the DTRS between R and N that the computer does not expect to see.
I do know there were two DTRS's for explorers 95-97 and 98+
I have the 98 + because my trans and PCM come from a 98, but this does not mean ford didnt use a left over 97 DTRS on my trans or something....but I got this code with the DTRS that came with my trans....so??
Baumman suggested scanning PCM and removing this function (setting a code when it sees this signal)

Who and where is my problem? Need somebody with this ability in their scanner, me buying a programmer is still a ways off ($$$ for tools)


Wiring check first......

After I lick this I am fixing all my rust/bodywork...been putting it off too long!

Recent pictures:

Moab 2007

Julee driving on Poison spider:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2007/julee1.jpg
Hells gate entrance

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2007/hellsenter.jpg

Hells gate entrance II
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2007/hellsenter2.jpg

Slipped off the wall on Hellsgate when Jefe (spotter) was walking from side to side to get a better view, oops! Almost layed her over:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2007/hellstirelift.jpg

Ooops got a bit tippy, BII hates when front tire gets in a hole, the rear likes to unload and roll her on her side
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2007/tippy.jpg
Body diet and cage should cure this, as will extended wheelbase

Some short videos (right click, save as) from Slaughterhouse last May:

I got in some goo and couldnt make the climb (some foul language):
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2007/MOV05344.MPG


Julee was excited that she got to pull me out with her FJ, taking the strap:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2007/MOV05345.MPG

The POP you hear in video 2 is the same problem I was having in Moab, and last weekend, I believe it was the hubs I will know 100% when I test her out this weekend

Great videos!

Do they test her as a V6 or a V8?

I just take it in, their only option in the computer is V6, so they run her as a V6 and she passes with flying colors! The newer V8 burns much cleaner than the old 2.9L.

I found my code, PO708, a little different than your PO705. If I can scan the computer to remove this function that would be great.

Check out page 19 of my 5.0L conversion for the TSB info including your P0708
(post #376)

P0708 - The voltage for TR3A (displayed in TR_V) was higher than 1.8V

Points to short in wires or bad resistor in DTRS sensor

TR3A I believe is Drive (tr1=1st? tr2=2nd?)

( I too am just trying to understand this chart...)

Man, seeing those Moab pics has me itchin' to go back. I had way too much fun out there. Hope you get your computer problem worked out.

now thats a bronco!!! nice rig

wow October 07 last I checked in here!! thanks for the compliment!!

the BII was parked in storage all winter but shes back at home now! Getting ready for some major updates including:

Fix front end, whether I stick with TTB or go solid ($$$$)
New steering (way too much slop)
New t case (BW 1354 isnt cutting it anymore) either Atlas or BW 4406 if I can make it fit

whats wrong with the 1354?

1354 isnt low range enough anymore, I want low low low range without having to re-gear my diffs (4.10 now, great with V8 and 35's)

4406 may be easiest, but its a tough fit and my transmission has already been converted with the AA adapter (I have another 4r70w I could build and use easily with 4406 t case)

Doubler = option, but under a BII it will worsen my already steep rear d shaft angle, doubler is also alot of custom work

Atlas T case = $$$$$$$$$ more $$$ then I have, but may be worth the investment

stretch that rear end to the bumper. I can see a "competition cut" 3-linked BII in the works.

rear end is going back 1.5" the front is going forward 3-4" :)

I have considered a 3 or 4 link rear for the BII, but honestly with the amount of flex I can get with just some simple leafs the front is what needs help to keep up. Moving the rear axle back much further then that would require a fuel cell up in the cargo area as well, etc.

With my current rear setup (4" Skyjacker leafs "slightly used", 2" tappered block, front and rear shock setup like stock BII) I can completely stuff a 35" right up to the floor
The rear has alot of flex, still more to give too....I plan to go deavers, remove block and some outboard shocks up through the floor... the locating pin on the new leafs will move back just a "touch"

Once I have a mad travel front end (20"+) then we will come back to looking at a 4 link rear


nice cage BTW, looking really trick with all those bends and 4 bucket seats...

thanks each bend seems to be taking about 3 days, and there's a lot of bends.

a good trick you could try on your springs would be to flip them around. I got mine re-arched on my 94 and accidenlty mounted them up backwards, the rear axle moved back about 3"

And when you pull 20" in the front, I want to see it go down cause I'll be copycat'n that.


You going to Moab in May? Maybe we'll finally wheel together!

Yes Moab with BII and FJ

20" will be either D44 TTB or D44 SAS


If I go SAS I am going long arm/coils (coilovers), no wristed arms for me :)

Finished up two other projects (including a drivetrain replace in a 91 Explorer sport and then an engine replace in a 94 Explorer sport LOL) then cleaned up the garage and brought the BII home finally...

I am removing:
steering column (300K miles = it squeaks a bit LOL)
Steering shaft (eliminate rag joint)
superrunner steering (to be rebuilt using bearings and new tie rods)

Front Differential (again, 4x4 is still screwed up)
transfer case (suspect a problem with this case and it has clearance issues hitting the floor of my BII, I was in such a rush to make Moab 07 I forgot to trim it a bit LOL)

-transmission shifter / linkage and bracket I made when I did the 5.0 conversion
My 96 Mustang floor shifter is hitting the transmission
the bracket I made does not allow me to get 1st gear, a big no no for 4x4ing

the gages, my gages are jacked up, I got them from some BII from some junk yard, etc
The tach reads wrong with the 5.0 computer, my gas gage reads empty when I still have 8 gallongs, the speedo jumps all over the place (300K miles on that sucker 88 odometer!)
so they are going in the trash

This all gets fixed for Moab 08

then I can get on with the big plans I have for this summer for the BII muahahahaha
pictures coming, it was 70 here yesterday, I got a tan... now we are getting 4-8" of snow
crazy Colorado.....

Glad to see that the BII has come out to play again.

You going to stick with the same transfer case?

Do you think just getting a new gas gauge and speedo will fix your problem? My gas gauge and speedo do the same thing.

aftermarket gages for sure this time around
The cable drive speedometers are known for jumping around with high mileage
The little speedo thingy in your gage likely needs to be replaced (I think its called a head) I have also heard the drive gear in the t case itself (that drives the speedo sensor and cable) gets worn out and will cause the jumping

for now I will be using a 1354 t case yes...
eventually I want to do something different, doubler, D20, Atlas, 4406, something....

Okay BII is a wreck! LOL Well its all torn apart anyway.
I found my steering slop, its the Stupidlift idler arm for the steering, worn out. Going to cut it then tap it to accept a Dana 35 outer tie rod end. Also replacing all of the tie rods in the rest of the kit. I may also weld my drop pitman arm to the steering box )couple of tack welds) that sucker just will not stay tight!

I found the issue with my front diff, one of th emetal pins in the side of the ARB locker has backed out enough to contact the pinion gear... not good! Taking it in for an estimate today. I always try to support small business, well with my gears and lockers this has been a big mistake....both shops who I paid to setup gears and lockers have gone under leaving me with no warranty. This time I am taking the diff to High Country 4x4 here in CO, they are not going anywhere. They charge a bit more, but they stand behind their work. If my ARB is bad I will likley not be fixing it...no more $$$ into the D35 TTB if I can help it

Steering column is out, needs to be replaced

Transfer case is out, it checks out okay so I will likely re-install it
I found my driveshaft is HITTING the BII body... need to do some clearancing (so thats where that noise was coming from! LOL)

My 96 Mustand shifter is out, I need to find a new cable and bracket for the transmission side of things, my home brew setup was not working properly.

the radiator is out, getting replaced with a much smaller unit I got for a steal last year (Advance Adapters aluminum conversion unit)

Truck should be back up and running in two weeks or so...

fingers crossed!

Good to see you back--:thumbsup:

yes yes it is actually time to work on MY trucks LOL
I got everyone elses trucks fixed, including building a 94 Sport for my neighbors (small profit) so now its the BII's turn! LOL

I fought and fought and now I have my garage back! LOL

pics coming

tick tick tick...I'm on the same time frame. I need to wire in aftermarket guages on my truck prior to Moab as well, also need to address exhaust that was chopped off for the new rear shocks and also pull apart my entire front end that was leaking (hope it's not bent), replace my radius arm bushings(not necessary, but I'll be right there anyway and going to replace all 3 front u-joints prior to the trip (last priority).

gages are my last priority LOL
took ARB locker and diff to High Country
$120 to diss assemble and then call me with estimate.
ARB can likely be repaired. Cross shaft pin that holds the ARB pinion gear to the case likely broke = FUBAR but rebuildable (YEAH) they will call with an estimate.

ordering steering TRE's today
Need to borrow metric 22.5 tap from Brett so I can re-install

Transfer case is suspect still, trying to source another 1354 CHEAP :) LOL
I have 2-3 dont trust them, I think with two lockers and 35's I have been stretching chains? but they are so plentiful its not worth a rebuild when I plan to go low gears someday...

pics:

Fingers crossed ARB carnage is minimal, hopefully new pinion gear and cross pin only, de burr pinion gear (where it was struck) and run it till it breaks!
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/summer08/DSCN0627.JPG


Torn apart, need to re-locate brake lines
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/summer08/DSCN0629.JPG

Superlift Super runner steering:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/summer08/DSCN0630.JPG

Excuse the mess, we are also getting a 96 Gen II ready to be crushed :), BII parts:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/summer08/DSCN0631.JPG

You can see where my driveshaft was hitting the body x member (top right of pic) NOT GOOD
Made a HORRIBLE bang a couple of times on the highway to/from Moab 07.... yikes
I had clearance when I did the 5.0L conversion, I lost that clearance when I went to the Duff urethane body mounts
Maybe I need a 0.5" body lift? LOL
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/summer08/DSCN0634.JPG


Steering column is out, PITA to get past stock wiring
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/summer08/DSCN0635.JPG

painting fenders are my last priority LOL



fixed it for ya.

LOL on two trucks! matching paint will come some day...

Try this out for your radius arm bushings.

dang, all this work to find out transmission is shot
It will not give me 1st gear in D, it doesnt want to shift out of 2, its making a horrible racket in 4wd......
All the same things it was doing before, I thought it was my front locker and t case... nope

This sucks!
I will post pictures of the work I have done last week in order to get her ready for the 08 wheeling season, but my transmission is toast

Now to find a GOOD rebuilder and save some $$$, come up with a plan of attack
Makes me sick to think of the $$$ and time I have in this.... my rebuild did not last like I paid for it to, just spent $400 on my front locker did 3 days of solid wrenching including my own alignment to find out FUBARED

That sucks man! What do you think caused the transmission to go out? It didn't have that many miles on it, did it? And you run a trans cooler so it runs pretty cool all the time too...?

Don't you have a spare 4r70w laying around?

I do have a spare 4r70w, it needs a rebuild as it has 165K miles on it and it was slipping when pulled.

My 4r70w was rebuilt before I installed it, we used alot of new parts but it was not a full rebuild because the trans only had 80K on it. My trans pan temp never saw more then 150 degree's, my trans runs REALLY cool

Something hard broke inside the transmission I believe, something failed.
We will know when its torn down I guess

Symptoms (very odd because in 2wd its almost fine):
-does not want to give me 1st gear in D
-Does give me first gear if I put it in 1, shifts into 2nd like normal
-trans is making a high pitched squeel
-Truck does not want to roll in N
-something in the drivetrain feels like its binding, however I can freely spin the front or rear tires with the axle in the air, front driveshafts to tires everything is smooth, both lockers/hubs/ u joints all feel fine
-has these symptoms with two different t cases, so its not the t case
-in 4x4 it still loads up and then goes BANG, very loud very distrubing

Before I yank this thing I plan to do a bit more testing to make sure 100% this is a trans issue, but I am 98.5% right now

I dont want to do another rebuild, at least not locally, so sick of having my Ford trans rebuilt by the "best in town" only to have it fail in less then 20K miles.... Considering a new 4r70w (if I can find one) or a rebuild by Baumman or somebody elses who has a reputation for buioding a bullet proof 4r70w. I also need to source a 4406 manual t case.... unless my BII shift motor wires will shift the e shift version!

Getting the 4406 under the BII could prove interesting, although it will likely give me a bit more clearance for my front D shaft... It will need a crossmember and mount.... IF it fits between my frame rails! It will likely hit my exhaust?? I guess we will find out!

more headaches! Not sure if she'll see dirt in 08 or not.... very very sad
The only good news is the steering and front end are bitchin now! I pushed my front wheels forward an 1" which really helped with alot of things, the coils sit better, the steering is better, the alignment is better, looks better, the beams are sitting at a better angle, etc... my Skyjacker radius arms were never right, been wanting to do this mod for 10 years....also my 96 Mustang floor shifter with modifications is 100%, I have all gears, I can lock it in 1 or 2, and it shifts as smooth as a new Stang... to bad the trans broke

I wonder when it broke? its killing me to not know what the problem is, I wish it was something simple like a converter but I am fearing the worst...sounds BAD

Man, that is very interesting. No codes in the computer?

I continue to have 1 code after my swap, P0708. It only appears when I am driving in 1, which I only do when offroading in 4x4. When the pressure builds in 1 it will slip out of gear....I don't think it goes to 2, almost like it goes to N, then I slow down, and it will slip back in to 1. Really disturbing when creeping down a steep incline...

Under normal driving the code never appears, and the computer will clear the code a few days after it appears.

So, you having trouble in 1 concerns me too. Although, not having 1 in D is pretty scary. Hopefully you got your front end all set though. What is your wheelbase now, 95"?

First my ARB locker up front was bad, the cross shaft broke in half, allowing it to walk out of the housing and it was hitting the pinion gear on each rotation:

bad ARB:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/arbbad.JPG

cross shaft:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/arbbadshaft.JPG

fixed at High Country Performance 4x4, about $390
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/arbfix.JPG
they were able to save my 4.10 Yukon gears thank goodness

onto the steering, removed the superrunner kit and cut off the bad pitman arm pivot end:

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/supercut.JPG

Center link is cut to 10-7/8" from the flat side of the pivot bracket (had to remove material twice to get the correct length with the new tie rod end screwed in):
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/supercutmeasure.jpg

Metric 22 x 1.5 tap works perfect, allows you to run a drivers side D35 TTB outer:

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/supercuttap.jpg

Carquest part # for new end (I bought two because I also replaced my outer tie rods on both sides. Carquest part # for pass side is same but ends in 15 not 14:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/supernewend.jpg

installed, using a Gen II Explorer CV shaft outer nut as my new jamb nut (same thread):
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/superfixin.jpg

I also removed my 88 steering column and cleaned/repacked the bearings. I cleaned and lubed the cruise control contacts on the back of th ewheel too, then re-installed. no more squeek! I bought a junk yard steering column from a Ranger, but later found it in worse shape then mine! So I didnt use it

I did not replace my Superlift inner tie rods, they are still nice and tight.
All reinstalled and greased:

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/steerdone.jpg

On to the Shifter conversion:
Here is my 98 explorer setup, the shift arm faces upwards and with the 96 Mustang floor shifter I was using it has the wrong amount of "throw"

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/oldshift1.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/oldshift2.jpg

So I had to convert this trans to use the 96 Mustang shift pawl, cable and bracket. Ford wanted $140 for the cable and bracket, I won a 96 Stang shifter and cable on Ebay for $16.50. The stang shift pawl came from Ford, $20

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/shiftcable.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/ebayshift.jpg

install was simple, remove the DTRS, remove the nut on the inside of the shift pawl and pull it through trans. Install new seal on stang part, install into trans, install DTRS. You can see the explorer shift arm was outward of the DTRS, the stang shift arm is inward, keeping it tucked closer to the trans....thank goodness! I have a front d shaft so this clearance really helps!

All installed, cable and bracket mounted

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/newshiftarm.jpg

Onto the floor shifter itself:
the 96 stang shifter has no detents for gears 1 and 2, it simple slides right from 1 to 2 right to D. Well for 4x4ing this SUCKS. I want to lock it into 1, and lock it into 2, so out apart comes my Ebay shifter and out comes the dremmel

before
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/shiftplate.jpg

after
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/shiftplatecut.jpg

sweetness! Now to fix my mount, when I did the V8 I hurried up and got th efloor shifter mounted. Now I finally had the parts and time to do it right, this floor plate cover came from a 96 Explorer, amazingly it FITS THE 88 trans tunnel!

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/floorplate.jpg

mounted, fits awesome:

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/shiftmounted.jpg

Now will the front d shaft clear the new shift cable/bracket?
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/frontshaftclear.jpg

YES! Barely!

Finally on to the big stuff, re-installing the ARB/diff and finally modifications to my Skyjacker Radius arms to get my front tires where they should be

My trick to allow me to remove my 3rd member without touching the radius arm, cut the factory bolt:

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/diffbolt.jpg

beam cleaned and ready, I use black silicoln to make the seal:

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/beamclean.jpg

My beam is also cut to clear the ARB air line:

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/arbclear.jpg

front D35 all back together, axleshafts, bearings, brakes oh my! (can do this in my sleep now)

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/reinstalled.jpg

On to the radius arms:

before, been like this since we installed the radius arms about 10 years now I think:

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/radius1.jpg

bushings okay, nylon ring is bad
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/radius2.jpg

end of Skyjacker arm:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/radius3.jpg

the plan, new piece of 1" steel pipe, 3/4" long approx:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/radius4.jpg

all together, just enough room to thread, no more nylon ring the are worthless and limit flex anyways. I am running simply inner and outer rubber bushings now, should help flex
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/radius5.jpg

my welding skills are improving! I also tacked the big washer in place so it wont rotate anymore:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/radius6.jpg

And finally, OH SO NICE, finally the front end geometry is more like factory!!! (check out the new monster HF jack stands, 32" of lift! 12 ton!!, I can finally support my lifted BII by the frame with no worries)

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/radiusdone.jpg

then I put the wheels on, did a tape measure alignment and got to test her out....... only to find I gotta do all this again and then some... trans is coming out!! Hope to see trail in 08... please send $$$

Josh I can tell you on my test drives having the ability to lock the shifter into 1st gear is awesome! Both in 2wd and 4wd, in 2wd I can leave a light and shift 1-2-D myself, going from 2-1 will almost snap your neck, it also chirps my rear tires! so nice!
in 4x4 low, having it locked in 1st is bitchin! FINALLY she crawls, been really missing no 1st gear on the trail... not anymore, 1st gear in the 4r70w is LOW, now if I can just get mine back together we will really have something.

The only code I got is DTRS unexpected signal between R and N, same code I have had since day 1 of my 5.0L conversion, guys at Baumman believe this was a faulty PCM code and should be taken care of with a re-flash of my 98.5 pcm. Currently I am a bit more worried about it since my trans is broken... so I will post what I find out.

Also adjuster on my d side Rancho shock is doing nothing, spins freely... need to look into that, thank goodness for lifetime warranty!

I'ts good to see you back ai it Jamie
I think the truck was feeling ignored.

Freak....I should have never posted that the code only appears in 4x4. I'm daily driving the Bronco again, and during a trip to lunch today the CEL appeared again. I don't have a scanner, but I'm assuming the same P0708, DTRS Voltage High, is back, now in 2x4. I'll have to see if there was a TSB for this in '97.

Mine goes into 1 and it is really nice to crawl with. However, when going down a hill it won't hold itself once the RPMs get up and slips out. But yes, 1 is the only gear to wheel with, unless you are trying to keep up with a group! LOW.

Hope you get your trans figured out soon. Let us know what you find.

the plan, new piece of 1" steel pipe, 3/4" long approx:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/radius4.jpg

all together, just enough room to thread, no more nylon ring the are worthless and limit flex anyways. I am running simply inner and outer rubber bushings now, should help flex
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/radius5.jpg

my welding skills are improving! I also tacked the big washer in place so it wont rotate anymore:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/radius6.jpg

And finally, OH SO NICE, finally the front end geometry is more like factory!!! (check out the new monster HF jack stands, 32" of lift! 12 ton!!, I can finally support my lifted BII by the frame with no worries)

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/radiusdone.jpg

then I put the wheels on, did a tape measure alignment and got to test her out....... only to find I gotta do all this again and then some... trans is coming out!! Hope to see trail in 08... please send $$$

Also adjuster on my d side Rancho shock is doing nothing, spins freely... need to look into that, thank goodness for lifetime warranty!


Now that it done, how close is your passenger axle shaft to the pivot bolt? I know you run cut and turns but it's got to be close when fully stuffed


As for the shocks just pull the 2 allen head screws out of the adjuster and the adjuster will come off. You should be able to see inside if the thread is stripped. Use a bit of Petroleum jelly to lube the plunger for the adjustable valve. I've got 4 shocks that are ####ed I could pull the adjusters out if you need one, but if you got warantee that should cover it.

My trick to allow me to remove my 3rd member without touching the radius arm, cut the factory bolt:

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/diffbolt.jpg


Did you reinstall the pinch bolt? A lot of the torn/cracked beams I've seen we results of not running a pinch bolt just just so ya know :thumbsup:

Hey Jamie,

If you could do it all again, would you use the same trans/t-case? If not, what would you go with? I'm starting to research all of this and see what others like and don't like for a 92% trail 2% street and 6% parked rig. :)

C5 with C4 internals reverse valve bodied, doubler with 4.56s.

on 36" tires, you can still haul balls and open it up but gear down to a serious crawl ratio without needing to step down to 5.13s


oops mi llamo no Jaimie.

I would not run the TTB without the pinch bolt, that is why I shaved the bolt head down a bit so it will clearance my Skyjacker radius arm without having to remove the arm from the beam... the pinch bolt is a requirement on these beams, it locks the differential to the beam so the diff is actually a structural part of the beam, without it the beam would twist/crack/whatever. So yes I run the pinch bolt

Colin I would use the same transmission for sure but not the 1354 t case, simply because the AA adapter is so damn expensive and it requires the trans to be rebuilt. Using a different transmission with the 5.0L would require removing the trans functions from the PCM, or dropping a distributor into the GT-40P block and using a truck.stang computer. I personally like the benefits of OBD-ii and the 4r70w trans (almost cant believe that is coming out of my mouth right now ggggggggggr so angry at trans), having EFI and DIS is awesome IMO, plus this conversion would even be legal in CA into any pre 95 truck


My first choice would be:
-4r70w/ atlas 4.3 case (come on lotto)
-4r70w/ built/geared D20 twin stick (requires a smaller cheaper adapter/stub shaft $$$ for that and the D20 build up)
-4r70w/manual 4406 case

this is likely the route I will go (4406)... requires all new everything IF the 4406 will fit in a non body lifted BII, I have no clue if it will.....but I have seen this setup in a IFS Ranger.

That all depends on what is actually wrong with my truck, at this point its speculation until I have a chance to diagnose.
My plan:

-pull computer codes again
-remove front d shaft and see what happens in 2wd and 4x4
-put truck on 4 jack stands, run it through the gears in 2wd and 4x4 with a helper so we can try to locate the issue
-swap in another known good 1354 to make absolutely sure I just dont have two bad t cases

I still believe it is the transmission based on the noises / symptoms... but before I rip it out for a tear down I want to be 100% sure. Takes me 2-3 hours to remove the tcase in my truck because of the clearances, removing the trans/exhaust is another 2 hours

I need to check:
driveshafts
front end (again)
L&L motor mounts (make sure ones is not broken)
t cases (maybe I broke two t cases? V8, lockers, 35's its possible)

then we'll tear into the transmission.... Man I need more $$$$ I was not expecting this, once we found the broken shaft in the front locker I was 100% sure I found my drivetrain problem... nope!

If my trans is bad (95% it is) then I will tear it apart to find out what happened, see if it can be fixed easily.
Then I will decide, rebuild it and keep 1354
or
rebuild my other 4r70w (trade it in) and try to stuff a 4406 t case, new d shafts, etc

Hmmm, you've sparked my curiosity.
Besides some mega bucks, what would it take to get an Atlas 4.3 under there? Driveshafts? Adapters? Rebuild?

step 1. Order atlas t case for 6 bolt AOD/E transmission (assuming you didnt convert the 4r70w to run the 1354, if you have the 1354 adapter order the 1350 style 5 bolt atlas)
Step 2. Bolt in Atlas
Step 3. Have driveshafts modified to fit (if required)
Step 4. figure out linkage/boots

Thats about it, Atlas T case is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I'ts good to see you back ai it Jamie
I think the truck was feeling ignored.

Lol thanks John, I never left the garage, just switched focus to sleds for the winter... wow so worth it those things RIP! Now considering ATV's because we had so much damn fun snowmobiling. If you live in CO (or similar) and you dont have a snowmobile.... GET ONE, get a newer long track one, they are insane! By the end of the season we were driving right up teh side of a fricking mountain, all the way to the top, look over the edge, then turn around and FLY down the hill. Snowmobiles have come a long way since I was a kid thats for damn sure....

BII /FJ and a couple of ATV's would make for some serious summer fun!

I wish I could get this damn truck right, its killing me!! I should be doing cage not transmission crap!

truck was grounded, not ignored! shes a bad truck!

There is a possibility of the T-case being bad. If the oil pump is run dry the binding will break the tab stopping the pump from spunning with the rest of the shaft. I've seen 2 older T-cases have this issue. With the lack of lube and heat the pads on the shift fork burn up/warp. (it is glass filled nylon afterall). This results in the 4x4 shift fork not enguaging the 4x4 cog gear. The clunking you hear could be the t-case jumping in and out of 4x4. The more this happens the more the dog gear wears out and it just makes it worse.

Bad cog gear on the right.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/doubler/Transfercase%20tear%20down/tcase018.jpg
Here is where the cog goes
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/doubler/Transfercase%20tear%20down/tcase004.jpg
Broken pump arm
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/doubler/Transfercase%20tear%20down/tcase021.jpg

sweet thanks for the pics, would be a $200 fix if BOTH of my t cases are bad, including the one I got from a friend last year before Moab, 1000 miles on it since being rebuilt at High Country performance 4x4 here in Denver..... wow if thats the case their rebuild SUCKS

Similar symptoms with two different 1354's installed = doubt I will get off that easy but I will likely take one apart to find out! both cases seem to function fine out of the truck (test by hand) but that doesnt mean much..mine was never run dry, maybe a cup of fluid low at the most... drained 2-3 times a year on average (not by choice)
but I do alot of towing/pulling with this truck so well see!

sweet thanks for the pics, would be a $200 fix if BOTH of my t cases are bad, including the one I got from a friend last year before Moab, 1000 miles on it since being rebuilt at High Country performance 4x4 here in Denver..... wow if thats the case their rebuild SUCKS

Small things like this get overlooked, as they normally don't go bad. Rebuilds only consist of bearings seals and gaskets.

This cog is what engages 4x4. 4hi and 4lo. This locks the chain to the main output shaft via the shift collar. The shift collar is spring loaded so that if it's not 100% aligned when shifted it will shift when the cogs align. If there is any wear on the 4x4 cog the shift collar will jump out when load is applied as it will over take the spring force keeping it engaged.

case is coming apart.....thanks will keep posted.
Would be SO nice

Bunch of pictures Here (http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/doubler/Transfercase%20tear%20down) 1350's to 1354's

I would not run the TTB without the pinch bolt, that is why I shaved the bolt head down a bit so it will clearance my Skyjacker radius arm without having to remove the arm from the beam... the pinch bolt is a requirement on these beams, it locks the differential to the beam so the diff is actually a structural part of the beam, without it the beam would twist/crack/whatever. So yes I run the pinch bolt

I hope you don't think I was questioning your intelligence or anything, just double checking, since some people aren't aware of the big role the pinch bolt plays and I would hate to see someone crack their beams :cool:

Not at all man this is a discussion forum, I am humble enough to know I am nowhere near knowing all about this stuff, I just know my own truck... always good to get advice.

The transmission is 80% out, before I drop it I am measuring the BII to see if a 4406 manual t case is possible.

its already TIGHT under there....

If I can fit a 4406 in there I am going to, I want to delete all custom parts as much as possible, and the 1354 t case is good but not that good, not low enough, not strong enough.

After ALOT more testing (installed yet another BW1354 t case)
I am convinced my trans is broken, cannot wait to find out what went wrong
plan right now is to get ahold of another 4r70w automatic, mate it to a 4406 manual t case and bolt it in. Driveshafts will have to be modified, but I can live with that.
Huge t case will likely require clearancing at the floor, custom shift linkage, maybe moving the exhaust around, and a big ol t case mount/x member of some sort.

Wish I was driving my BII.....

scratch that... 4406 is too big for my BII
I could most likely fit the huge pig under the BII but my rear driveshaft would be back about 12" from where it sits now, giving me an extreme angle I do not want to deal with

Back to square one, pulling my POS trans and find out what broke.
Considering atlas 3.8 transfer case to go behind a 31 spline 6 bolt stock 4r70w, no more AA adapter.... looking at $3500 budget for that project including driveshaft mods, shift linkage, new 4r70w... yikes!

This sucks delux

Push that rear axle back 12" as well Jamie. Competition Cut B2.

how many miles did you have on that transmission? My A4Ld came out at 102k, 110K(under warranty), 119K and again at 124K for a torq converter and then it was toast by 130K where I said "See Ya" to that. Just curious how fast yours went out. It's frustrating paying extra for a build to have it fail so soon.

Forgive the newb question--
wouldn't the pinion angle be easier to deal with? I thought you could change the spring mounts

March 05 was the date on the receipt for the "rebuild" more like install AA adapter and output shaft

I would guess 20K miles max......trans had 80K miles on it from Ford when we tore it apart, it looked so good internally that basically no hard parts were replaced when putting it back together just the pump and a couple odds and ends...... sucks sucks I hope I find a metal part split in two so I KNOW I found my problem... tearing apart to find nothing is going to make me really really worried about what to do next.

JT pinion angle would be EXTREME, my rear d shaft would be about 24" long... like a stupid jeep, this and cutting my floor, moving my exhaust, needing 2 new d shafts, making them clear, etc just takes the 4406 out of consideration.
I would rather put that $$$ towards an Atlas. I have seen what an Atlas can do in a truck, plus they are tiny and would fit my application no problem...

Way things look right now I will likely roll the dice, rebuild the trans I have with the stupid $550 AA adapter kit and go wheeling with my fingers crossed that it was $1300 well spent (price of a GOOD rebuild)....

Question is WHO do I have rebuild it? I trust NO ONE anymore when it comes to these auto trans

Mogi, or anybody in So Cal that builds real cars. I've had several transmission shops say they build "beefed up" trannys, but they never work. I sent a buddy to a shop that did a $1500 upgrade on his superduty transmission and it was toast in a year, replaced under warranty and toast again in 6 months. It looked good on paper and the owner acted like he knew his business, but I see they have now gone out of business.

I had transwerx build me an A4LD, when I ripped it out and went V8 I sent it to Bill (RangerX) he is using it in his wifes 93 Sport...still going strong from what I understand.

Of course if you saw the headaches I went through with Transwerx trying to get the transmission built after it was dropped off, was told 1 week, it took almost 4. IMpossible to get them on the phone or any response, basically had to drive down there (60 miles) like 3 times to get them on the ball.
My point is finding a good rebuilder is a losing battle. They must be in business a long time with a good reputation before I would even consider, and getting that information is a PITA....
I am hoping that this was something "ford" that broke internally, and that my rebuilder is not to blame, this way I can use him again and possibly save some $$$, hes a friend of a friend and I have sent him alot of business.

Bottom line = Auto transmissions are my biggest expense with this damn truck, I would be happy if I can eliminate any custom parts so when they do fail I can just get another known running low mile unit from the wrecker for $3-400 and slap it in there for another 8-100K miles. OR start collecting knowledge and tools to do them myself, then the rebuilds would cost $4-600 for me to do myself and I would KNOW they were done right LOL (more like cross fingers and prey firrst few times! LOL)

You guys have fun in Moab, it will likely be fall by the time I get there in 08

I say pick up another low mileage 4r70w, mate it with an Atlas 3.8 and some new drivelines and be done with it! Sell your old BW's and drivelines and hang on to the blown 4r70w for parts or future rebuild.

I'm still shocked it went out this quickly. Let us know what you find!

called Atlas yesterday, 4 week turnaround, they make a 3.8 case that will bolt to the 31 spline 4r70w using a 1" spacer and still trimming the back of the output shaft so it doesnt bottom out. Around $2800 to my door. Then need a x member/mount (atlas is HEAVY, 160#) and driveshaft mods.

I have sourced a 01 4r70w from an Explorer with 80K on it, $400
I have a 96 4r70w sitting in storage, but it has 160K and was slipping when pulled.

If I had the $3500-4500 to spend on this little project I would, summer will be over before I can afford that..... but yes Atlas is the ultimate goal. Even a built (tera low) dana 20 case would require an AA adapter in the 4r70w, driveshaft mods, etc... so my cheapest option, at this point, is to fix my current POS trans and bolt it all back in, so I can see Moab in 08
Will keep posted, pulling the trans 100% tonight, its 4 bolts and two cooler lines from being out

Welp I bit the bullet and had my 4r70w rebuilt. Lots of broken parts inside, lots of worn parts as well. 1 day turnaround from a local builder who comes highly recommended, 3 year warranty so we are good to go! new converter, full rebuild, warranty, more $$$ then I planned to spend but its back in my hands going in the truck tomorrow.....1 day turn around, I dropped the trans off to them yesterday at lunch time and picked it up today at lunch time..... now that is amazing.


We discovered that one of the tcases I have (the one I have been running for the last year) bottomed out on the AA output shaft, causing the damage to my transmission. So my bad, I wont make that mistake again.. I am going to test fit the t case outside of the truck.

There goes my roll cage $$$ for this year... have to keep doing "light" trails until next summer I guess. I still think I have an issue in my front end, but well tackle that after I get it back together this weekend

body work is next on the list, finally fix the rust, remove some sheetmetal, possibly doors and top and wheel the heck out of her this summer.....

truck is back together 99%
spent entire day Sunday re-installing my new transmission.
I dry fitted the 1354 t case to the 4r70w, the input on the 1354 t case as bottoming out on the AA output shaft.... great! This cost me a rebuilt trans within 20K miles.
I had to shave approx 1/4" off the input shaft of the 1354 t case to make it fit....

no wonder I broke a bunch of crap inside a brand new 4r70w.....not happy about that!
Regardless the truck is all back together now, except parts stores were closed when we finished up (7:30 pm) so I still need 14 quarts of Mercon to get her running.

Also need to repair my rag joint.... testing today after work... fingers crossed.

Advance Adapters claim they have never heard of such an issue, google searching turned up nothing.

Bottom line the short version of the AA AOD-E to 1350 t case adapter (7" version) SUCKS, the t case when bolted up bottoms out on the trans output shaft putting a bunch of stress on the internals of the transmission. Shaving 1/4" off your t case input shaft is the solution..... just wish I would have fitted the t case to the trans out of the truck when I did the conversion initially. FYI all 3ea 1354 t cases I have here at the house did the same thing....

Jamie-

Any way for me to tell if my input shaft is having the same problem? I have the same AA adapter as you do and I'd like to avoid blowing up my trans!

I see you have had a rough time with the trans/TC lately. It's tough I know, I began building my own AOD's back in 1988. The basic tools aren't too bad, they are up to close to $200 now. I did fine when I started and became comfortable with them. The knowledge learned is the biggest part, having the right manual and tools, VB kit and parts.

How bad would you driveshaft angles be with the BW4406? A double cardon joint can take quite a bit, I have read about 22 degrees or so.

I'm collecting parts for a 99 4R70W, for high performance figure on $500-$800 in parts minimum. Torque converters aren't cheap either(HP), but those are worth good power and efficiency gains. Energy suspension does not have a trans mount like we need, they got back to me about it. Regards,

Moab: Yes!, remove your t case and have a look at the output shaft in the back of the trans, about 4" in where it begins to taper see if you have teeth marks from your t case input shaft. removing the t case in my BII is about a 2 hour job because things are so tight without a body lift and because the trans mount and floor shifter must come out to get access to the 5 bolts

Also if the t case does not go up against the tailhousing flush by hand (without the bolts) then you may have a problem... my AA adapter is the 7" version just FYI not the 9", I am not sure what the difference is. The guys who rebuilt my 4r70w last Friday showed me the wear and tear internally, not total kablooey so to speak but definatley not good, broken shims, washers, increased wear on drums, etc

CDW, my buddy Brett has been rebuilding his own A4LD's now for a couple of years, I have watched him collect the tools and learn the process, it now cost him about $5-600 to do a complete build just for parts/kit but they are coming out great! I would love to follow in his shoes, but time did not afford that luxury this summer.

Fingers crossed I am off to get two cases of Mercon, I really hope she holds together this time!
500 miles, then drain the pan & converter, 500 more miles then repeat and replace filter...you know the usual $200 in Mercon/filter routine LOL

All I know is she went together perfect this time, even though the V8 is a tight fit, I can put this puzzle together pretty well now, there are 3-4 bolts that really put up a fight, the two top bellhousing bolts, the inner bolt on teh pass side header flange, and the dipstick to engine bolt...wow there is no room for hands on those! instead I use some tape on the bolt head to hold it in the socket, then its just trial and error with a flashlight until its inserted and threaded...

Update:

Still working on getting this truck running
After the transmission rebuild I was still only getting "limp mode"
ONly code is P0705 which means PRND21 Circuit failure, 2 or more switches active at the same time
Adjust the DTRS is what they say to do, well adjusting does not work.

Transmission shifts from 1-2 when first started, then stays in 2nd gear always, never shifts to 3rd, no engine braking.

After checking my custom wiring 100% (pinout every wire from trans to PCM, even inside the transmission with no pan replaced shift solenoids, etc) and finding I am 100% correct all wires are in perfect shape and in the correct positions, I was at wits end and about to pull my trans again...........then on a whim I removed the DTRS from the side of the transmission and kept it in the cab with me while driving. If the DTRS is pointed at Neautral my truck will drive 100% through all gears........ something is fishy here.

Does this with new DTRS and a spare/back up computer so its not a sensor or computer.

I suspect my Mustang shift linkage is the cause, still trying to figure out why because both cars use the same 4r70w internally, meaning the shift lever moves the same amount from P-R-N-D, etc whether its an explorer column shift or a Mustang floor shift....

This is a really tricky one...and very frustrating

lkay starting from scratch again, looking at the transmission wiring (AGAIN)
Why:
P0705 code present (last trans laster 2 years only with this code, increased EPC pressure = NOT GOOD)

Digital TR circuit failure

Digital TR circuits, indicating an invalid pattern in TR_D. Condition caused by a short to ground or an open in TR4, TR3A, TR2 and or TR1 circuits. This DTC cannot be set by an incorrectly adjusted digital TR sensor.

Increase in EPC pressure (harsh shifts). Defaults to (D) or D for all gear positions. In (D) position trans, stuck in D or manual 2.

WIRING OR DIGITAL TR SENSOR

I have this code with two different engine computers and two different DTR (range sensors) so it HAS TO BE THE WIRING.

I will build a complete stand alone transmission wiring harness, no longer integrated into the trucks/computer harness just for testing, because with my OHM and multi meter all my wiring checks out 100%, so somwhere I am picking up the wrong voltage (grounded out) or the wrong power wire to the DTR sensor....the only wire the DTR shares with anything else is circuit 359, Grey/red which is the voltage signal return to the computer

PCM PIN 91 is (grey/red) circuit 359:
voltage signal return to computer from DPFE, coolant temp, camshaft pos, TPS, fuel tank pressure sensor, MAS, DTR, and trans temp sensor

This should be cool, although I would rather be driving, havent really driven the BII in 6 months!!! she needs bodywork not this crap

FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Since I finished my 5.0L conversion in 2005 this is the first time the truck has NO CODES and the transmission is fixed

I ran 4 wires directly from the DTRS, TR1, TR2, TR3a, and TR4 directly to their pins at the computer

This fixed it!!

So somwhere in my wiring harness I built is a cold solder or a short in one of these 4 wires.
I will be leaving the "band aid" harness in place until I can test the truck for a few days and make sure that dammed P0705 code does not come back! that code cost me a transmission...........

Also if you search for P0705 online you will not find much about possible causes also you will not find out that it could KILL YOUR TRANSMISSION
This code or any trans code that increases line pressure can kill your trans if you continue to drive......my problem is I was able to get all 4 gears because my old shift linkage had too much play in it.....so I drove it anyway.

Now she is 100% Need an alignment tomorrow, finish fixing my steering shaft and BAM! I am on the trail again!!!

Excellent, well done. The DTRS sensor is missing from my box of new parts, I'm about to start on mine.

I have several! LOL I even pulled a broken one apart yesterday to get a better idea of the internals...... I have a Mustang, two 96 explorer's and two 97-01 explorer's.........pictures of my fiasco are coming

there are 8 pin versions and 12 pin versions
8 pin was up to 96 in the Ex, up to 97 in the Mustang, 12 pin is 97+

what a PITA that little sucker is.... geesh at least for me! It figures wiring is what I do best, this time I came up short LOL I guess 86 out of 87 wires is pretty good though...they were all extended 4', so thats 174 solder joints right there...

I may have to "borrow" one of those DTRS's from you, haha.

All along I have suspected a bad DTRS in mine, triggering PO708 from time to time. However, your AA output shaft horror story has me thinking that the PO708 has another root cause. Perhaps it is A)Output Shaft too long or B)Pin 91 Circuit 359 wiring that is bad, perhaps the fuel tank pressure sensor (which I don't have)...

pin 91 is reference voltage from all kinds of stuff, your P0708 is range sensor circuit voltage too high.. I suspect one of the TR1, TR2, TR3a, or TR4 pins, these 4 wires are what tell the PCM what gear your shifter is in, so ensure the linkage is adjusted 100%, the DTRS is adjusted in N perfectly, then check the wiring...
I had the same P0705 code with two difference PCM's I was lucky to find my F77F-blc computer here in town for $40 with two phone calls!!

Update, BII is amazing, drives SO NICE now, the shifting is awesome
V8 sounds so bitchin! Been driving it alot lately and wheeling it a little. No issues at all


and then BAM! 28 miles from home, 100 degrees outside, quits running in the middle of traffic.
I pulled into left turn lane and called my finace/wife (2 weeks!) It cooled down a bit and I was able to get her running enough to get off the road (stutter)

The in tank fuel pump stopped working
AGAIN!

this is the 3rd Napa brand fuel pump I have had in my tank.
I installed this pump in 2005/6 when I finished my V8 conversion
I had to fill the truck up (23 gallons) to get her home.
The BII will run with a full tank of gas and only the high pressure (rail mounted) pump running. The boost pump is required on hills and on highways, with the dual pump system the high pressure can get you home if the tank is full.

Instead of trying to drop my tank with 23 gallons of gas or siphon-ing it all out, I decided it was time to cut the floor:

PICTURES COMING

I replaced just the pump unit with a $40 Carter pump and strainer kit
Works like a champ again! So easy to get to now!!

Finally getting down to the details on this truck, not major drivetrain issues.
The engine and trans are a dream now, T case works like clockwork, both lockers are perfect, aligned and runs like a bat out of he**

Time to do bodywork/customize the body:
remove all glass / soft windows
no doors
fix rust

winch/sliders/ cage all planned for this summer/fall as funds allow

I can't wait to see what you come up with!

oh man I have been planning the cage for YEARS, I am back to wanting to keep the BII top, just get rid of the heavy glass and tailgate... make it so I can put my glass back in for the winter :)

soft windows
2 piece tailgate
half doors and no door mode
sliders part of the cage, engine and rear shock hoop also incorporated
no more sheetmetal!
fenders/bedsides/hood/roof OKAY, everything else goes

should be complete sometime in 09 unless I win the lotto or sell organs

I've been trying to think of a way to go topless as well....without actually chopping the top.

Did you know that the early-early BII's were actually designed to have the rear windows removable? They hinged from the top and clamped down on the bottom and then were stored behind the rear seat.

So I think it can be done with some fabbing. Without doors, rear windows, and hatch you have a very open cab and go on a serious diet. Hmmmm.

I've been trying to think of a way to go topless as well....without actually chopping the top.

Did you know that the early-early BII's were actually designed to have the rear windows removable? They hinged from the top and clamped down on the bottom and then were stored behind the rear seat.

So I think it can be done with some fabbing. Without doors, rear windows, and hatch you have a very open cab and go on a serious diet. Hmmmm.


Wonder what it would take to make a set of removable hinges and clamps to hold the windows in. I've been thinking of pulling my windows and making canvas/poly windows that snap in for the summer. I've got the picture saved someplace for the removable windows.

http://broncoiipopoutsidewindow.homestead.com/index.html

http://broncoiipopoutsidewindow.homestead.com/index.html

That's the one.:thumbsup:

I have had thosesame pics and links on my computer for a long time now

I am going to make soft windows that roll up and use studs to attach with wing nuts, so the surround material will likely be a stiff plastic, If at all possible I want them to keep the BII contour at the top

I plan a two piece tailgate, ranger style that folds up and a top glass piece from the BII that folds down, lock together, top remove-able
Half doors and tube doors likely, I would love to use some EB fiberglass door inserts but I dont want to run soft half doors in the winter, I love CO and I love my BII in the snow... so its gotta stay hard top as much as possible.

also these:

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/sideout1.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/sideout2.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/sideoutinterior.jpg

I plan a two piece tailgate, ranger style that folds up and a top glass piece from the BII that folds down, lock together, top remove-able

Like this??
:D
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/Split%20Gate/MoreBIV359.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/Split%20Gate/MoreBIV355.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/Split%20Gate/MoreBIV362.jpg

I love CO and I love my BII in the snow... so its gotta stay hard top as much as possible.

Same here. it gets to -40° so it needs to keep heat. So I guess you opted not to chop the top Jamie? Good Choice.

Dayum who did that???? I love it, exactly what I was thinking except quick release top portion

been talking about it for years LOL looks like I am not the first (too humble to think I would be anyways, its a natural fit)

Fuel pump pictures:

Sorry fuzzy, best guess to cut location:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/fuelpumpcut1.jpg

Looking from underneath, not much clearance above my tank pressure sensor, but there is enough:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/fuelpumpcut2.jpg

small hole cut to see how close I was:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/fuelpumpcut3.jpg

hole cut, pump removed, look how full the tank is!! would have been a bear to drop: I filed and painted the edges of the stock sheetmetal to prevent rust
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/fuelpumpcut4.jpg

pump, strainer and sender assembly:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/fuelpump5.jpg

custom access panel, blue one side, bed liner the other:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/fuelpumpcut6.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/fuelpumpcut7.jpg

Made a seal using rubber hose and silicoln:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/fuelpumpcut8.jpg

Done and done:

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/fuelpumpcut9.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/2008/fuelpumpdone.jpg

no more sheetmetal!
fenders/bedsides/hood/roof OKAY, everything else goes



so that means you are taking off the 3 doors? I can't think of any other sheetmetal on it.

I like your plan. Can't wait to see what you come up with. Any other changes in the suspension withe the shock hoops? I still think you should push the rear axle back and "comp cut" your rear wheelwells.

You gutting the interior for the cage? I haven't looked back for a second for how my interior turned out. There's only a few things I still need to do and one thing I would have done different.

inner fenders, rad support, cargo floor, rear inner bedsides
the cage will be gusseted to the body similar to mcneil trucks of late, so much of the inner pillar supports, etc will go bye bye

I am BII dash, maybe save some of the plastics if possible, keep it nice :)
Shes such a pretty truck inside I hate to chop it up, but I also am sick of taking the bypass because I dont have a cage and I want long travel to keep up with the big dawgs
The Explorer can take over as my IFS truck :)

Suspension will likely one day be solid axle front with coilovers (moved forward) and long travel rear leafs with bypass shocks...
you know the drill man! Things may change along the way, they always do!

Dayum who did that???? I love it, exactly what I was thinking except quick release top portion

been talking about it for years LOL looks like I am not the first (too humble to think I would be anyways, its a natural fit)
:p:
That was one of my parts trucks. I was experimenting. I just need to fill the top of the tailgate and fill the bottom of the cut hatch.

Everyone talks about doing stuff bla bla bla. I not only talk I DO.:salute::D

http://broncoiipopoutsidewindow.homestead.com/index.html

I've got solme 1/2" aluminum offcuts laying around that would make perfect hinges and wouldn't be hard to duplicate what the factory had intended.
Damnit now I'm thinking of new projects. I need to complete the ones I have going now. Before starting new ones.:confused:

I'd like to get my split tailgate thing done before I paint.

why do you need a hinge? I would just use the nuts ans studs that came with the windows....simple

I talk alot and then DO :) LOL
Not too many BII's running around with a 98 5.0L GT-40p drivetrain AND obdII

Your fiberglass and hatch project are awesome, keep up the great work and idea's

why do you need a hinge? I would just use the nuts ans studs that came with the windows....simple


Too much work. If it's raining you want to be sitting there while trying to fish 12 nuts onto studs? Per window??

A two piece hinge/clip like the factory intended wouldn't be hard to make and 2 latches at the bottom. Would take you less than 1 min to put the windows on and secure them.

No actually if its raining I will have my soft windows installed, the glass would only be used in winter months
either way no windows without chopping the cab = cool

Bambi Killer has a nice set-up with no windows.

The 'roofrack' is part of the inside cage that goes through the roof.

been a while since the BII got some parts thrown at it:

Finally the day has come! I found a smokin deal on:

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/winch/dscn0996.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/winch/dscn0997.jpg

Where its going (driving lights get re-located):

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/winch/dscn0998.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/winch/dscn0999.jpg

Likely be cutting the grill a bit

This is a 9000# Mile Marker, guy used it 3 times then put it on CL
It may not be the best winch but it should do the job the 4-5 times a year I need one :)

After shes installed we will see about interior controls and dual batteries

Great find :thumbsup: I'm jealous. Post more pics as you go.

OKAY after Hurrican IKE things have been nuts, my rents have a house on Galveston, its okay but the first floor was under water so it needs ALOT of work. Still no power down there so we have not even been there to see it ourselves.
Regardless, work on the BII is moving forward, I need to get her ready for another winter and get her out of the garage so I can fix my other two explorer's

Anyways here's the parts I have collected:
1. New Beltech shackles, built for lifting a Ranger/BII 2"..I plan to ditch my 2" block and run these instead.
2. new Mquay Norris Extreme ball joints - Wowee!! Goodbye Moog, you had your day..these suckers are bad ass. I Installed them last night, my 2 year old Moogs were CRAP already.....geesh moog has gone downhill
3. Advance Adapters all aluminum 5.0L conversion radiator, finally ditch my crappy leaking POS radiator for this EBay gem I picked up last year for half price
4. Mile Marker 9000# winch, can you say FINALLY
5. Maintenence: BII needs oil change, trans filter and fluid change (new build broken in), new fluid in the rear diff (crappy Pep boys stuff is puking fluid all the time. Adjust my brake master cylinder (rear brakes are doing too much work, keep eating pads), cooling flush, find out why my heater blower only works on HIGH, fix chip in windshield before it cracks

All this happens this week, ball joints I did yesterday. I will get pictures... oh and I re-did the stereo and gages recently, sounds and looks great now! Rust repair has begun, major body make over this winter...(no doors, no glass, ready for cage time)

Thats sounds like a plan. Strange about the Moog parts not holding up. I have some spare Moog ball joints that I bought about 3 years ago. Hope there the good ones.
I thought you said at one time that you were going to chop the top?
Going to check out those shackles you bought. Where did you get them.

You will like the BellTech shackles. I need to recommend you get a set of at least 2* pinion shims. I need to get a set of them for mine so it recorrects the pinion angle.

just got an alignment the other day on the x, and they said moog was garbage now. they use spicer now.

ALMOST LOST HER THIS AM

I have been driving the BII to work and back for a month or so now, the Explorer is in the garage getting new header gaskets, a bolt broke off, we are remodeling our house, yadda yadda its taking forever..but
this morning on my way to work we almost lost the BII

This is the 3rd time the BII has saved my ass, not including almost rolling off road, etc I am talking TWO INCHES from totalled.

A 16-17 year old girl in a 01ish 4 runner pulled RIGHT OUT IN FRONT OF ME, actually head on.. the road I bring to work sometimes is a mountain canyon, there is a T with a stop sign, she went right through the sign and came straight at me! I was doing about 35, windy mountain road....I pointed to the left lane, hard on the brakes, BII did perfectly, went right where I pointed her, front brakes locked up, slid to a stop with 6" to spare before going over the edge into the ditch....she stopped her 4 runner 2" (no kidding) 2" from my passenger door

Thank goodness for dana 35 and 8.8 disc 4 door Explorer brakes on a BII with 35" tires.....
She saved my butt again!
Its ironic because this holiday weekend the BII is getting parked for a while, I'm gutting it and building a bumper to bumper cage and new suspension :)


Luckily I dont have to also fix frame damage or sheet metal too

Be careful people, and young'ens, please look both ways!
drive within your abilities/trucks abilities, road conditions!
If there was Ice this AM I would have kissed a tree nose down into a ditch and the 4 runner would be in my passenger seat.....

Glad to her she is still alive, that could have been BAD!

Funniest thing with my BII?....the air horns saved me! An old grandma started to merge into my lane and pushed me almost into a telephone pole. If it wasn't for my air horn screaming right in her passenger window, the BII would have been toast.

I'm looking forward to your cage project, should be sweet!

Glad all turned out. Hmmm, I got some airhorns off a deuce and a half, need to get them in my ZJ soon... Just need a 12v solenoid valve for it.

Shot you a pm if you didn't get it.

Justin

BII is waiting for parts
BIG NEWS

My new JD2 BENDER will be here tomorrow!
http://www.jd2.com/images/M3B_Bender1_rs.jpg

I ordered a JD3 bender with stand, comes with free handle and degree ring
I got 1.25" and 1.75" 180 dyes
I also picked up Argon gas for my Hobart welder
HF chop saw and HF tube notcher
For x mas I got a HF plasma cutter and new compressor
Julee surprised me with a KOBALT 16 drawer tool box with fridge and stereo! LOL

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/kobalt.jpg
Tlak about saving space! I re-designed the entire garage to fit this sucker, I put all my tools in it and now I have a complete wall of peg board with nothingon it, everything is in the tool box! And there is still MORE ROOM, I even have 1 empty drawer left!

Needless to say the "shop" is coming along quite nicely! I have the best wife ever! She came home from Lowes with a smokin deal on a floor model tool box, it has a large dent in the very top so she got it for less then HALF the asking price, they had to deliver it with a FORKLIFT I am in love...I keep my beer in my tool box now



Need to get a big ol drill press and to mount 4 anchors in my garage conctrete for the new JD bender

Been collecting tools for this stuff for YEARS now, its all finally coming together!

First project is a light rack for the FJ Cruiser, then the BII is getting fully caged

Can't wait to see pics of it bending thos tubes.

damn, what a toolbox..

THANKS! Previously I was using the bought from my neighbor for $100 crafstman 4 drawer unit 10 years ago..........I loved that thing too I donated it to my son in law.

With this Kobalt man I still have more room and all the tools I had on the peg board and in cabinets are now IN THE BOX = garage is open again for more room for expansion!
Because it has the fridge and stereo in it, I gained all that space too.... FYI the fridge holds 29 beers, so you can drink one while loading out your 30 pack :)

Friggin box is $1700 at Lowes, I always just walked past it thinking hahahah yeah right Ill never have that... my wife worked a deal got it for half-ish floor model, big dent I will never see because I keep the lid open! I love her so much, OMG she supports my truck/off road addiction!


JD2 gets here TODAY

my garage is pretty big. if it didnt have all the shelving and cabinets i could probably park 3 wide and 2 deep throughout the whole thing. i have a craftsman toolbox but i also dont have that many tools.

you have a good wife, im happy for ya bro

my garage is small 20x20 so space is a premium
I spent an entire weekend re-arranging everything just to accomodate this monster!
Ill have to get some pics, before we had dual incomes it was difficult for me to save for big ticket items and get parts for the truck, we are still on a tight budget, but its amazing what you can do if you really wheel and deal, my wife has taught me that!

Craigslist is your best friend!! my cabinets, work bench, and many tools all come for free or cheap from the CL

we are actually planning to build a 36x30 in the backyard, that will be my new garage, this small garage will then become more basement and another bathroom, addition.
My best friend sells steel buildings, but concrete is way up.. so it may be a while!!

Nice Jamie, and congratulations on the wife, your best asset.

Wow its been a while here for the BII, poor truck!
I beat the living snot out of this truck since the V8 conversion and shes been really good to me. I blew up one transmission, a t case, the steering, and the front diff.

I got married, we got pregnant, and we have a son now :) hes getting big enough so we can get back to doing our thing, for me this means building stuff and getting outside.

Yesterday I finally got her back into her new home, the re-furbished garage.
The stupid battery charger I have wouldnt hold a charge so I was un able to jump start the BII (sitting the back yard), I cant drive another vehicle over to it so I tried to winch the BII to the street... I used the 4000# winch on our ATV.....the BII wouldnt budge!!

eventually used the explorer in low range to tow her into the street, then jump start (fired right up!)... the reason she didnt want to move is in the rear diff, something is binding

So the BII is now in the "shop" for what I am calling Stage III of her buildup.
This is going to transformation from DD/weekend warrior to Sunday driver/trail rig

* body diet
* full cage bumper to bumper
* winch
* new cooling setup (radiator/hoses)
* battery re-locate
* boat side & sliders (remove rockers)
* harness
* back seat
* suspension fine tuning (coilovers? if $$$ permits)
* 4406M t case or doubler :)
* PAINT!!!!!


Looks like I will be rebuilding the rear 8.8 also, 4.10 Yukon with an ARB in there now, its been puking fluid for a couple of years now when wheeled hard... wouldnt surprise me if this ARB is fried, the shop that installed my front and rear ARB = out of business and I have had to re-do everything they have done.......

I have saved and worked for this for years, I finally have 90% of the tools I need, now its just time, $$$, and learning curves :)

Shooting for the trails in 2010

Awesome man! I can't wait to follow your progress. I have similar Ideas for what I want to do with my bii body and cage.

So work out all the kinks and then you can start on mine!

Look forward to wheeling in 2010. !

Can you buy Jon's extra painted rear, can you work out shipping for it?

years is right, I see posts from as far back as '04 from you saying this is going down! Not to say I haven't seen some big builds in other trucks from you since then, but the BII is the godfather of your V8 DD and sport track projects. Looking forward to the buildout.

YES back in 2004 we were already way overdue for a cage, running with the big dawgs on this forum (when I could, geesh the big dawgs are very capable these days) had me wanting a cage for years... but I am not rich and I am not about to pay somebody else to screw up a cage for me, I have it in my head how I want it built and integrated into the BII, so I'll screw it up myself! LOL

Oh the Sport Trac was sold, sadly, I couldnt justify another truck, instead we kept our 1999 GMC 2500HD :) lukcily I got out of the ST just about what we had in it :)

Pics coming after this weekend, we are taking the baby camping for his first three day trip above 8500'! Cannot WAIT!! I will miss the BII camping, but the FJ and Rzr will do nicely

thanks guys, it wont take me long to strip the glass, doors, and interior... then when I have the plasma and sawzall out we will see if she keeps her top :)

I have a spare 8.8 already for building

I wished I'd live near ya. A few cups of coffee each morning is all I'd ask for. And then the sparks would fly. Man, that top has to go!!!!
Hey if it helps, I was in my very late 50s befor I took the first cuttin wheel to her HA HA
And If I remember correctly I owe a dept of gratitude to you for all the inspiration you have given me over the years. Thanks

umm, yeah, I wouldn't mind a long weekend in CO helping chop apart your truck in exchange for your engine expertise out here. I'd much rather be running a sawzall than trying to wire a V8.

I'm still waiting for someone to completely shave all the body off an explorer/ranger/BII and build a true buggy out of one, just basically leave nothing but the firewall/dash assembly.

firewall/dash, door sills, cab, and bedsides good enough? :) Mine just may have a roof too :)

So many decisions to make, seriously... if I hit the lotto I would build two, one classic BII style with TTB and a buggy with SAS........ so Ill have to find a middle ground

V8? V8? what? dude your 4 door would love a 5.0L

Hey...Ole' Man Winter is right around the corner. Sounds like you'll be busy in the garage this winter...Got Heat.

Heres a pic of my 86 Bronco 2, Baught it living in Nv. I found it in a Mcdonalds parking lot, sitting on for Flats I contacted the owner and baught it, next thing i know im pulling the engine Out of my old bronco 2 that I completley rebuilt, Dropped the engine in. Put a ford 9" rear axle in. Took a axle of of an old Bronco 1 put it in the front. Put some king coils in the front and put some 37's on it. Custom dash, custom gauges. so much more. I miss Her wish i still had it. what a great truck was beating jeeps left and right on the mountain tops.

Heres a pic of my 86 Bronco 2, Baught it living in Nv. I found it in a Mcdonalds parking lot, sitting on for Flats I contacted the owner and baught it, next thing i know im pulling the engine Out of my old bronco 2 that I completley rebuilt, Dropped the engine in. Put a ford 9" rear axle in. Took a axle of of an old Bronco 1 put it in the front. Put some king coils in the front and put some 37's on it. Custom dash, custom gauges. so much more. I miss Her wish i still had it. what a great truck was beating jeeps left and right on the mountain tops.

Jamie you made Youtube fame!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QZK2ltKqRY

haha... i was looking through this one my friend just showed me, and low and behold your bronco makes an appearance.

lol muddiggers

they never asked for my permission to use my truck of wifes pic!!!! sue the rednecks!!!


http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/B2/b2stuck.jpg




kidding!!! i was stuck uck yuck because somebody stacked rocks in the mud hole and i high centered the front diff!!!! a 4 runner yanked me out of that pit

Was someone trying to fill the hole?

they were likely trying to climb the ledge when there was no water int he hole, entering that pit is a 4' drop... I have been there in both dry and wet seasons... rock stacking to climb up dirt = the norm, sometimes even the best rigs need a rock... I just like to put them back when I am done ......

I try like hell before I get out the winch, rock, hi lift, anything...without breaking anything that is of course LOL

My tires still have chunks taken from the lugs from that day LOL they were days old!! hahaha

Ah good. I wonder what drive in car washes think of you guys.

Ah good. I wonder what drive in car washes think of you guys.

They hate them. I hate them too.:D Sometimes the car washes get so bad around here you can't wash your car without driving through the mud left by the trucks in the middle of the night.