So, I've decided to wreck.. er remodel my master bath.

Before I started, the know problems was:

1) Low, non-existant hot water flow.
2) Floor had a slope - almost 4" in 10ft.
3) Poorly installed whirpool tub.
4) Badly installed shower enclosure.
5) Mis-installed vent fan (flapper valve installed upside down.. so it open when not being used, and closed when your turned on the air.. if the tube it was on was actually attached to the fan box.

So, here's some pictures of the starting point. It's hard to see, but the closet door doesn't work, and it's all scratched up - yea, they installed it, THEN did the dry wall work.

These pictures are how NOT to install a drop in whirlpool tub. Yes, that's correct, I will have to use a jackhammer to break it out. So, that means this tub is probably destroyed.

It also wasn't positioned properly. It should of been centered in the bench, instead of pushed to one side and then back. They do make a tile flange kit for this tub.... BUT, the contractor decided to use grout and fill in. :rolleyes:

Yea, the new tub will be moved to the center, and the bench will probably get extended out 6-12". I plan to re-install a whirlpool type tub, with a roman style faucet with a personal hand shower in the deck. Funny, that last sentence means about $1500 in materials..

But this is the fun part of removing the tub.

The idiot cemented the drain in, so you can't take it apart - it has to be cut out, then jackhammered.

I didn't take any pictures of the show stall - this is where I found the silicon trying to hold the walls on (didn't hold), and the shower base in the air with no support under (so it flexed and quickly cracked into pieces).

The good news - my neighbor does floors for a living, and says the slope can be easily fixed (self-leveling concrete). The water flow problem is a water deposit problem that can be fixed with replacement of the traps/filters/pressure flow valves. I will fix the fan when I replace the box with a better fan setup, and when I put up the new greenboard I will install a vapor barrier.


The tub is complete loss in my book already.

Only thing I'm keeping is the toilet - don't worry, he did screw that one up too, but that is also fixable.

Ahh... I love builders who do really crappy work that makes no sense! Looks like you've got tons of fun ahead of you. I'm subscribing- will have to remodel a master bath before long with a baby blue tub.:fart:

What brand is the tub? There are a lot of salvageable parts such as the pump motor, air actuated switch, vents/jets, etc. I could be wrong, but I think American Standard has a lifetime warranty on the motor. Check into this. By the way, how long ago did this contractor perform this botched up installation?

That drain pipe looks like ABS plastic which is cheaper, lighter, and more fragile than PVC. The name of the leveling cement is called thinset. They come as either a premixed formula, or a powder which needs water.

That drain pipe looks like ABS plastic which is cheaper, lighter, and more fragile than PVC. The name of the leveling cement is called thinset. They come as either a premixed formula, or a powder which needs water.

It does...Cheap worker and products im sure...

It looks like the Moen anti scald shower body. Am I correct? It's hard to tell from the picture. I only have part of it at an angle. You need a special tool to remove the cartridge to clean it out. I would recommend using cement board (Wonderboard) around the tub area. There is something new called Backerboard, but I've never used it yet. It is lighter, and flakes apart compared to cracking.

The tub is the lowest, cheapest Home Depot/American Standard special - only like $300 from them. No great lost on the tub, it's out of warranty anyway due to the way it was installed, which occurred about 7 years ago anyway.

I'll sell the tub on Craigslist locally. Somebody will scarf it up in no time.

The parts to fix the shower valve - even though the whole valve was sold by Home Depot, you can't get the replacement parts needed to fix it. It's held together by 3 screws for the valve, and another 3 screws for the anti-scald portion. No special tools needed, other than one set of screws is slotted, and the other is a cross head..

Thinset is what you set tiles with; the neighbor who does floors will help me level and fix the floor at his cost for materials, and labor is a favor (he owes me a favor or two.... :)

When I redo the walls, I plan to use cement board on 3/4" plywood for the decking, and cement board on the walls where I tile it up, and green board for the rest.

My neighbor had a shower installed that I want - made out of solid surface, with clear glass door and brushed nickel where ever metal shows.

Hmmm, and interesting post to stumble upon right after returning from my Mom's house where I was turning off the water (valve corroded, had to call the city to turn it off at the street), draining the leaking water heater (water heater located in the ATTIC), and finding the areas where the water got (bathroom wall - conveniently running into the tub), and bedroom, on top of the door. Since it use to be my house, and I knew the pan under the wanter heater is only about an inch tall, I knew I was in trouble when she emailed asking where the water came from that was coming out the pipe at the back of the house.

Long story short, I feel your pain. Bathrooms are fun, and challenging, and make sure nothing leaks when you're done. ;) Looking forward to the progress.

I just found this (http://www.tileredi.com). A little costly, but interesting..

Definitely some new products out there that are easily to deal with, and better than the "old way". Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Thinset is indeed used to set tile--it is too thick to use as a leveler--however it can be used to create a slope for drainage-(shower pan)

You need an epoxy type product--like this

http://www.cgmbuildingproducts.com/pd1_f.htm

It will be a free flowing liquid, so be sure to build "dams"

I picked up samples of the colors for my shower last night. Dang, close to 20 different colors! This solid surface stuff is impressive, and not too costly - total for the shower (glass, surface, and fixtures will be in the $1700 - $2k range). But that is for something that has no grout lines to clean, no gloss to wear off, and little to no visible caulking. Best part is if you scratch/damage the surface, you can buff out the damage! FYI, the manufacturer's web page is at http://www.swanstone.com

Yes, when it comes to cleaning, I'm a lazy bastard.

I also found a set of patio french doors at the local homedepot that I like - aluminum outside, wood inside, loez glass, again not too $$$ - $800 for the door, plus lock hardware. So that is going to go replace a window in the bedroom wall, giving me access to the backyard. http://www.atriumpatiodoors.com/ is their website.

I found the water flow problem, and verified that is NOT a size/routing problem, but a debris problem.

I can fill my tub in about 5minutes, so I'm much happier now! :bounce:

Next problem, finding the repair parts for the faucets. This has been a royal PITA, nobody around here really carries American Standard repair parts..

This part is full of garbage. I've been flushing the lines today, and did a test fill of the tub, trying to get all this crap out of the lines.

http://www.lockesupply.com/Pages/Catalog.html

try these guys

This link has a lot of useful information on plumbing: http://www.diydata.com/plumbing/index.php

This link is about bathroom electrical wiring: http://www.diydata.com/electrics/bathroom_electrics/bathroom_electrics.php

Well, my journey into the madness continues..

No vapor barrier installed, no stapling of the craft paper on the insulation to make one. The fan exhaust was just stuck into the vent, not attached, sealed or anything on it..

And, in the space over the closet, zip, zilch, nada - no insulation. No wonder that area was always so cold.

Use a minimum of R-11 or higher grade of insulation.

I plan to insulate and vapor barrier, then seal as much as possible.

You could also use expanding foam insulation in the hard to reach areas.

You might find this article interesting: http://realestate.aol.com/article/improve/_a/contractors-who-will-remedy-diy-projects/20061121105809990001?ncid=AOLCOMMre00FICCclnt0001

You might find this article interesting: http://realestate.aol.com/article/improve/_a/contractors-who-will-remedy-diy-projects/20061121105809990001?ncid=AOLCOMMre00FICCclnt0001

If I get that buried, I'll just call my contractor in-laws who live in SLO.

Finding crap like this under the sheet rock is just upsetting to me.

Total lack of attention to detail from the previous owner/contractor.

No insulation in the closet space.

The header over the window is out of level, so they created a "shim" to hang the sheet rock off to correct it - except it sticks out 1/2" too far.

:rolleyes:

At least the walls seem to be somewhat square, and plumb.

Some people like to put that hard plastic hose which carries hot water underneath the tiles in the bathroom floor so that the floor doesn't feel cold when you stand on it with bare feet. What grade of insulation did you end up putting in? Do you have central heat, and A/C? If so, do you have vents in the bathroom? They sell insulated metal foil for those ducts instead of the old style metal box ducts.

I am still in demo mode. What is up there is R30 insulation, and I think R13 in the walls.

None of this so far is my handiwork; this is all the previous owners handiwork. I'm in the process of correcting it all.

The house has 2 wall furnaces, gravity style. No ducts, no A/C; the roof in the rest of the house is the ceiling. I had to fight with the roofing contractor to get 2" of foam insulation on the roof, which helps tremendously.

I have no need for A/C, it's 65-80 degrees from April till November.. Maybe 2 weeks out of the year it gets hot enough to care.

Maybe it's just me, but does that gunk that came out of his pipes look like broken-down dip-tube to anybody else?

Bradford-White had a whole batch of defective dip-tubes about 10+ years ago. Some of them were replaced, but the systems never back-flushed, leaving all sorts of debris in the tank and in the house's plumbing, creating never-ending issues like plugged screens and stuck valves. The gunk that came out of my condo looked just like that. I have a co-worker that's having current issues with his. Luckily, when mine failed, I was able to fish roughly three and a half of the four feet out of my hot water tank, and never had any issues after replacing it.... Might be worth checking into a good back-flush of the whole system if you can...

-Joe

I was looking at a Home Depot flier yesterday, and came across something interesting. They make a new kind of mold resistant paperless sheetrock for moist locations called Densarmor. Here is a link with some information on it: http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pname=DensArmor%C2%AE%2BPlus%2BInterior%2BWallboard&pid=4659&hierarchy

I was looking at a Home Depot flier yesterday, and came across something interesting. They make a new kind of mold resistant paperless sheetrock for moist locations called Densarmor. Here is a link with some information on it: http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pname=DensArmor%C2%AE%2BPlus%2BInterior%2BWallboard&pid=4659&hierarchy

I would use nothing but true "Hardybacker" for bathroom walls. Don't confuse this with concret mesh board. Hardybacker can be cut with normal saw blades.it is about 1.5 times as dense as concrete board--

I would use nothing but true "Hardybacker" for bathroom walls. Don't confuse this with concret mesh board. Hardybacker can be cut with normal saw blades.it is about 1.5 times as dense as concrete board--

Why? I can see it under tile or other finishes around the shower. But even on the rest of the walls? How would you finish to say make it look like the drywall on the cieling? Just wodering.

Maybe it's just me, but does that gunk that came out of his pipes look like broken-down dip-tube to anybody else?


Interesting, because I checked the kitchen sink faucet the other night.. and guess what it has in it.

Yup, tons more of that crap.

I did do a flush of the water tank, and it came out clean. I had to replace a valve to do that; it refused to seal after the flush.

I am so gravitating towards doing a hot water heater replacement, and then a total flush of the system..

I have also seen that paperless drywall at HD, and was considering using it.

Behind any tile, it's either a cement backer board (tub deck) or hardyboard (wall). The rest of the bathroom gets either greenboard, or the paperless drywall.

The closet area (outside the bath) gets good ol' regular drywall, and the rebuilt wall in the master bedroom will get that also (along with a new french door to the outside!)

Oh, yea, the project is growing. Why stop at just the bathroom? Keep going the voices scream in my head!

If you decide to replace the hot water heater, would you get a tankless model like the EEMax Jon has?

If you decide to replace the hot water heater, would you get a tankless model like the EEMax Jon has?

I'd love to, it's just money you know. Esp. if the tax credit is still on going; that makes the $1k + price sting less.

Especially since I found out, since I'm the house owner, there are NO requirements that licensed ANYONE is needed if I do the work on my house, as long as the work I do meets code.

An update:

I have completed the demo portion of the job.

The floor is 1.5" out of level (over 12ft). Going to take about 18 bags of leveling cement to fix it. :rolleyes: This is going to be fun - I need to raise the toilet flange about 3/4 to 1", and the current flange is deep in concrete. :eek: I found a flange riser kit on Amazon, so I'm sure my local plumbing supply shop has something for that.

The ceiling/walls had missing insulation; the ceiling was about 95% complete.. but the missing 5% was enough to make it COLD! The walls had several sections of insulation missing also, for example 8ft strips, about 4-6 inches wide. I now plan to pull down the drywall in the other half of the addition to fix what is hidden.

I found two electrical boo-boos. One box the previous idiot installed, said "oh oh, that's in the wrong place", and then added a retro-fit box to move the plug outlet. Then he proceeded to do the same thing about 4ft above it for the lights. No wonder that area looked like shit - he tried to mud over the old box.

One of the walls was supposed to be a shear wall, but he didn't put enough plywood up to finish it.. so it wasn't really a shear wall. It also had huge gapping holes in it, so cold outside air would flow right through it into the bedroom. I can't wait to get that POS fixed.

The voices in my head have won, I've decided to put in a set of french doors at the same time. I will also be putting a warming mat under the tile floor in the bathroom, and pulling all the carpet in the house and replacing it with a laminate floor.

My tip of the day? I've started to carry a notebook pad with pencil. Everytime I now visit a HomeDepot or Lowes, and I find something I like, I right down the stock # and/or take a picture with my cell phone. Makes it real easy to find it again, or have the local store order if it's not in stock.

Do you have anymore updates or pictures?

No real updates, just finally got it down to studs and bare floors.

Because the floor is badly out of whack, I had to empty the Master bedroom also so we have a reference point for level. The floor will be leveled next weekend..

Here's the final demo picture. I've already re-did the insulation in the ceiling. I've added the missing sections, re-did some of the wiring, and added tie points for the drywall.

I am picking up the Ardex K-15 self-leveling cement today (18 bags!), and the floor will be leveled on Saturday.

Lowes has 10% off on Jacuzzi tubs this week, so I'm buying a tub, and ordering the Swanstone solid surface shower from them too.

Second picture is the power tool collection I'm working with. Grunt. :D

So far, for this I've bought:

1) rotozip with all the accessories - not bad price, under $100 for it all (compared to old prices)
2) Sears 9.6V screwdriver - light weight, cheap on clearance. To be used for drywall screwing. :)
3) air framing nailer. The time(s) I would of rented one, I could of bought one, so that's what I did in advance.

I also have:

1) electric powered stapler.
2) Porter Cable tigerclaw adjustable recip saw. This thing is just cool!
3) Dewalt 18v setup with 3 batteries, 2 chargers, circular trim saw, recip saw, 2 of the 1/2" hammer drills, 3/8" impact, and light. I got the second drill for the impact, batteries and charger.. It was one of those buy the drill, get the impact free deals, which actually cost LESS than buying the impact. :confused:
4) el-cheapo circular saw. I use this to cut concrete, so I don't feel bad about destroying it.

It looks like someone's been shopping at Harbor Freight. Tha nail gun rules!

No Harbor Freight stuff in the picture; it's all Home Despot stuff.

The nail gun is a Porter Cable, that was on sale for $199.

Well, picked up this:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40152

Which is 18 bags of Ardex K15 self leveling cement.. that is $1k of home improvement.

But, when we started on Saturday morning, found that some of the swells where the new floor meets the old floor was just too high, and needed to be smoothed down.. Which meant renting a 30lb breaker, and a bushing hammer head, and then doing this on stretch that was about 3ft wide, and 12 feet long.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40150

Which totally sucked, and ruined the rest of the day for pouring the floor. The neighbor who is helping in this part (a professional floor person), couldn't help on Sunday, so that part went on hold.

So I cut a portion of the slab away, to make space for the relocated drain for the tub, which looks like this:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40151

Fun.

The plan is to try and pour the floor this coming Saturday.

:salute:

Yeah-you have been humpin'

Looks good though. The hard work will pay off in the end--:thumbsup:

Well, I need to update this..

Sorry, no real pictures, i need to get a new camera.

Floor is leveled, FINALLY. 1 3/4" out (top of the sill plate) to nothing, 12ft later.

Started re-framing the old/new walls.

Found out the shower valve that is messed up has a lifetime warranty on it, so i called and have a new pressure adjuster on the way.

Ordered swanstone shower enclosure, that was costly. Supposed to be here sometime this week.

Picked up new drop-in whirlpool tub and fixtures for tub, sink. Changing the style on the shower from chrome/brass to satin nickel.

Hopefully in the next month I can get it all installed and done..

Oh the joys of home ownership:eek:

Glad to hear things are moving along. What happened to the camera? Get filled with sand at Pismo:eek:

Ooh, satin nickel is going to look niiiiice!!

Oh the joys of home ownership:eek:

Glad to hear things are moving along. What happened to the camera? Get filled with sand at Pismo:eek:

Camera lens moves in/out, I think a wire/sensor broke inside.

It's been dropped and beat up several times, so I'm not really worried. I learned long ago, buy the cheap cameras for offroading..

Ooh, satin nickel is going to look niiiiice!!

Yea, I like satin nickel. The old style was chrome/polished brass, and I hated the look.

Well, I picked up the special order parts from Lowe's on Friday.

The shower pan was in that set, so I dropped it on the floor to see if the drain lined up.

Oh oh, it didn't. So I'm busting out concrete today to move the drain over 1.5". Crap.

I may just bust out the toliet flange too, since I've the breaker till Monday morning, and it's 1" below the floor. I was going to run spacers and extra-thick wax ring.. but I'm in a 'if you going to do this, do it RIGHT!" mood.

I talked to the City Building department yesterday, and got several interesting answers.

1) the old work was properly permitted, and signed off on.
2) the inspector was released from his job for cause since that time.. oh oh.
3) Vapor barrier - stucco exterior means you have a vapor barrier on the outside of the house, so you place the vapor side of the pre-barriered batts against the outside. Which explains the reversed insulation batts.

:confused:

Well, everyday, this project grows.. and grows..

I have been planning on also doing the kitchen, and the other bath..

The electrical wiring in those two areas is badly in need of updating (ie, no real proper grounds, no GFCI, no 24" plug distance.. etc.. etc..)

The previous owner had placed two junction boxes, in the butt ugliest places possible. you can't bury them in the wall they MUST be accessible, so they get covers/doorways.

Well, I found out why he did it, and now, I'm adding the other bath and kitchen to the plans. Doing it this way will allow me to solve the wiring issues, and resolve the structural issues also.

I also have realized another PO changed the 15amp breakers to 30amp breakers.. :eek: Talk about HUGE fire hazard!

I'm glad to realize in one shot everything I almost wanted to do - I just wasn't planning on doing it all at once.

I saw this article, and it made me think of the things you found wrong in the bathroom: http://realestate.aol.com/gallery/inspection-nightmares

So, today, finally, I put in drawings and information for the total house remodel.

Yup, it exploded.

Going to re-do all the baths (gut job down to studs), COMPLETE re-wire of house, remove a window and replace with a french door, replace 3 old windows (aluminum frame, single pane), completely new kitchen..

The kitchen cabinets are the ones I'm excited, but yet leary about.. I've been researching the local cheap cabinet scene, and only one place carries anything I even like, that is easy to customize yet cheap, with a decent warranty.

It's Ikea.

They have a 10year warranty, soft close drawers and doors, faceless frames.. They fit, and will run me under $4k for the complete kitchen, except for counter/sink/fixtures.

I'm looking at 18"x18" granite tiles for the counter top (at $15sq/ft, not a bad price)

Yes, I'm trying to cheap out on the kitchen, I feel if I get 10years out of it, then replace it, I've done good.

Think about using epoxy grout for the counter tiles, it's hard as nails and will not stain.

If you have any freestanding countertop areas, islands and such, consider purchasing a slab of granite. If you pick it up at the dealer the price comes down considerably without the installation. Around $24/ft2. Tell them the size and the edging and get several quotes.

Also the plastic corner piece that goes between the countertop and the wall really looks professional is inexpensive and they come in metals also.

http://www.drivingmeinsane.com/forums/good-stuff/91-kitchen-remodel.html

Yea, there is also a thing called 'red guard', that makes a flexible seal you can put between the underlayment and the wall, there for sealing it.

At the rate I do things, it will be december before I get to it..

Woo hoo!

Got the permit today. I'm now legal to proceed!

:hammer:

:bounce:

...congrats, you should have her signed off by next week ...;)

I re-did a bathroom when I moved in in 2001. The best investment we made was a Warm Tiles floor heater.

Yea, what's interesting is just how cheap those mats are. The thermostat almost costs more than the mat for the main bath!

Woo hoo!

Got the permit today. I'm now legal to proceed!

:hammer:

:bounce:

Holy cow, I just caught the post about the whole house remodel. Sounds great!!

Can't wait to watch the progress.:thumbsup:

Yea, what's interesting is just how cheap those mats are. The thermostat almost costs more than the mat for the main bath!

I used the Warm Tiles thermostat (wouldn't know how to substitute, really) but installed another company's high-amperage timer that was dramatically less expensive.

So far, I've busted out concrete, removed and replaced the rubber caps on a waste pipe.. It was supposed to be have a clean out cap, not a rubber cap with a band clamp that couldn't be removed..

I also moved down into the ground, and added a cover to another clean out that stuck 6" out of the ground (which was not glued together. :eek: )

Today, I started pulling down the kitchen so I can start on re-wiring the house, and found a problem..

Years ago, they removed a 4x4 post that supported the beam across the ceiling, and replaced it with a 2x4... ok, but come on guys, you could of at least nailed the 2x4 in place.

They also removed several other 2x4's, and chopped holes in the header plate. Great, now I've got to figure out how to fix THAT. I am open to suggestions on to fix this.

...structural framing i only have a little over 30 yrs. of...send me a couple more pics...your first probem i see is your top plates have been cut out by the other trades...you are going to have to make chases for the ducts, etc...you are going to have to replace the top plates and lap properly and depending on your lo-cal, a bit of hardware is going to be involved starting with at least a hd5, maybe a couple 1" diagonal let in's, and i am curious as what they are going to call for beam hardware as i don't even see any strap material...
...just thinking out loud but if you have already had a pre construction walk with your local inspector, i would not be surprised if you get to the end of the job and he ask you for the stamped structural engineering for your fix's...:scratch:

That wall is a mees for sure--just scratching my head here--

notch the beam where the green is--use a 2 piece header joining it at the beam--

the duct on the left is a mess--you need to move it--

You gotta love the old "balloon frame" houses huh?

I swear my house had no 2 studs spaced equally--

...in calif and most states he will definately not be allowed to notch the beam for two reason's...first, he would definately need structural calcs when it is spotted and second, the whole beam will count at it's smallest height which is at bearing area with a minumum of 2" of bearing, say it is a 6x14 now, notched only for the top plates, it is already calculated as a 6x11 for it's whole length....the size of that beam alone will definately draw any inspectors eye...;)

Well whatever you do, that cabinet is going to have to come out--:D

could he use jack studs to support the ends--still have a 2 piece header?

...no, the reason being it would be a hinge point...california's codes do to seismic activity are second only to dade county florida...i would say the easiest would be to pay for the structural engineering and i personally would prefer not to say that but it's true...if he does a fix on his own there is a high chance for it to have to be documented with a stamp in his permit file...there are beam hangers, hold down's, and shear i could suggest on this but again, a stamp is all they want to see...
...if he was to simple fix it and the inspector doesn't catch it, he could maybe put in double king studs on each side with, if it is a 6x beam, put a 6x post in...the tricky part is if the inspector is a hardware nut as most are, that's when it starts costing and what you did may be a waiste of time...:scratch:

The plan is to go to the city next week, take some pictures, and talk to an inspector. I need to clear more out to see just how far the damage is. The overhead beams are 4x6's, with the 6' in the vertical direction.

That wall also goes up higher on the other side, and holds up the garage roof.

It's not 100% fubar'd, but it's messed up good.

The vent line goes - it's too small, and in the wrong location.

The wiring is also a joke - yea, there is ground wire - it's separate and like 18ga thick. Thankfully, I'm doing all new wiring.

It helps any, here is where the two missing studs should be.. one is cut down, the other is missing outright.

...i sincerely wish you the best of luck and remember, your inspector is the nicest guy on earth and you would do anything to make him happy ;)

...in calif and most states he will definately not be allowed to notch the beam for two reason's...first, he would definately need structural calcs when it is spotted and second, the whole beam will count at it's smallest height which is at bearing area with a minumum of 2" of bearing, say it is a 6x14 now, notched only for the top plates, it is already calculated as a 6x11 for it's whole length....the size of that beam alone will definately draw any inspectors eye...;)

too bad they didn't do that in 1959..

:eek:

BTW, the ceiling you see.. is also the roof. There is no crawl space/attic space in this house.

All is not lost. I found tonight that upper half is framed in - which you can't see in those pictures, and was covered by insulation.

Also, a gas pipe is in the wrong place on the ceiling, so I'm screwed for putting a vent through the roof in that area. I've measured, and found that I can get 90's and 10x3.5" fittings in that area, so the one hole stays.. the other gets fixed, along with a some simpson ties, pl glue, screws, and a couple of 2x4's.

Gack.

The more I look, the more I just hate all the options to fix this, except for one..

At this moment, I'm leaning towards re-framing about 6 ft of that wall. There is a beam on the other side of that wall, that holds up the roof - and it's currently unsupported by this hack job. The dry wall is only 1/2" thick - and it's a garage wall, which means they really want to see 5/8" drywall on it. The garage inside door frame is also messed up, so that needs replacing. Also, one of the 2x4's is bulging in pretty good, and either needs shaving or replacement.

I also need to run a at least a 3.25x10 square duct or 6" round duct for the range hood in this area. The hole in the plate is correctly sized, but in the wrong area. The roof has a gas line directly in line where the 6" round would exit. Not good. Other choice is to go through the wall, and go up on the garage side, which currently is the best choice.

It's looking to be easier, better, but not cheaper to take it apart, reframe, and then put up 5/8" drywall.

...i am sorry you have to deal with this mess...this is the main reason why homeowners do not understand why something so inexpensive can get out of hand so quickly...
...for anyone wanting to venture into remodeling their home i always suggest they watch the movie, "the money pit" with tom hanks before they start...i have seen about every senerial over the years, from both sides, the contractor, and the homeowners...it's a must see tom...:D

Watching Holmes on Homes on cable is depressing enough. :D

He finds the craziest stuff. I see things and I say to myself - "I hope I don't find anything like that!".. Of course, I've found unglued DWV, piss poor plumbing, structure, "true" vs. "level" problems (HA!), electrical..

The good news is the bad news is almost all found.. :D

So, I got the bottom of the top plate out, cut some stuff out of the way, pulled out some of the hacked up 2x4's, add a joist hanger and some steel, and lots of 3" screws, and ended up with the attached picture.

Hopefully, that will make the inspector happy (I think I might have open the other side up and add metal/screws there too..)

...just a heads up...simpson is the industry standard on hardware and they spec what fasteners to use with the hardware....screws are not accepted unless they pass simpson recomendation for their hardware....the screws do not have what they call "sheer strength" ....an inspector will spot that....you can pick up a simpson book at a hardware store that sells simpson, and if you look up the pice you are installing it will have fastener specs...for example, it would probably call for #10 nails for the installation, length would be 1 1/4"-1-1/2" perhaps....and you will at least need to add some a35's both sides...;)

An update.. of course, Mr. Negative (tbars) will have something bad to say..

:D

Got the replacement windows. Window for kitchen was easy - the other two are much more difficult. The main front window appears to be head in such a way, that alot of the front of the house has to come apart.. So, I'm now looking for a new front door since it's messed up anyway.

Been working on the plumbing, electrical - got a sub panel in now, and all the old crap ripped out of the old main panel. The way this house was wired.. oh boy.

Next up, wiring the kitchen and master bath, plus prep for the rest of the house re-wiring, and installation of the rear french doors.

...i promise i won't say anything....:D

Where are the French Doors being installed?

Man, your bathroom remodel took on a life of it's own:D

Where are the French Doors being installed?

From the master bedroom to the backyard. I can't wait, the weather is incredible here for 6-8 months of the year, and having the ability to use the backyard as another "room" will be GREAT!

I have to pick them up - the install is the weekend of the truckhaven run. :(

Man, your bathroom remodel took on a life of it's own:D

Yea, but it's going to be much nicer when I'm done. Since I have the walls open, I am considering now how to also wire for cable, phone, and networking. Not really a major problem, just have to figure out where to place the structured wiring box.

We have one of those in our laundry room. When we moved into the house, I didn't realize what all you could do with it until I went to Home Depot and saw their display. Cool stuff!

Got the new French doors installed, and a new service door for the garage.

Rants:

Windows need to be nailed/screwed in. Please, don't use dry wall screws. The window in the Master bedroom had only 5 nails, and 3 drywall screws holding it in place. :eek:

Yea, now I know why it rattled.. :rolleyes:

The new garage door was a super tight fit. Stupid concrete at door sill was out of level - way out of level. Luckily, I chipped enough out to make it work.

Sorry tbars, no screws in re-building the frame.. All air nailed in place. The old wall was super shaky without the plywood - adding it stiffened it way up. The old wall had a strap across it, which the PO cut and chopped up..

Everyone who has seen the door thinks it a GREAT idea. Too bad these Andersen french door cost $$$$$.. I'd drop one into other bedroom, removing it's window also.

...i am glad to see you are getting away from the screws...:D ....it's looking good...if you are looking for an anderson, hit me up as i am good friends with their distrubutor down here...
....btw, rick said this years th fire was the biggest and best one he has ever seen...:p:

No, I didn't say I am getting away from using screws, I said use the proper screw for the job. Drywall screws are for drywall - nothing else. There are screw fasteners that are just as good as nails.

:D

My lastest discovery..

I have two switches, with something I thought was long, long outlawed..

Yes, I have two switches that use mercury to switch on/off. :eek:

Time to call the local HHWS and see if they will take them..

They still use mercury switches in car trunks, and under the hood for those small lights. Those mercury switches in houses never go bad (at least I've never seen one ever go bad).

How are these projects coming along so far? Do you have anything else to update?

Let's see..

Electrical is almost complete. Have kitchen to finish, and lay down floor warming mats in both baths.

Working on master bath the past few days - got the tub tile deck down, working on plumbing, hopefully get to set the jacuzzi tub soon. Best part - one of the reasons I started this - slow fill of the jacuzzi tub (over 30 minutes), is solved. Testing shows LOTS of flow now. :D

Another update..

Jacuzzi tub works now! Yea! It fills really fast, like in 10 minutes. With the heater, you can just kick and relax.. I did for about 30minutes already. :D

Bad news - it totally depletes the water heater. :D I may be switching it out for a tankless, or a larger tank version; I am not sure yet which one - I am probably going to do that last, when I see how much money I have left.

Electrical is almost done - have a few boxes left to set, and to place the floor warming mat in the main bath (have to clean up old mastic first)

The main bathtub I tried to set and missed by 1/4" on the ledger board (too high), and need to rebuild the p-trap for it.

Last is adding all the missing metal "protection" plates to wires and plumbing, then calling the inspectors for my fun ride..

...got any new pics...:bounce:

....can't wait till you are signed off and get to enjoy the fruits of your labor...:D

I have some pictures.. I just need to get time to upload them.

Spent the last few days cleaning the old cutback mastic off the floor in the main bath, so I could lay down the isolation/thermal barrier for the tile warming mat. It was fun, having to hand scrape the floor with a carbide blade paint scrape.. For a while I felt I was back in high school, and running my finger nails down the old chalk board.. SCREEECH.. SCREEEEEEEEEEECH..

But the main bath needs a single box set, and it's done. A few more items on the ol' punch list, and it's ready for doom and gloom.. erm, inspection.

Good to hear. Soon you'll be done and you won't know what to do with yourself:eek:

1st inspection done!

Woo hoo!

Ok, I failed. But not miserably.

A few more outlets need to be added, plating of a few places that things are "vulnerable", checking, and a electrical load calculation for the new box.

...glad to hear this...i'm sure you were relieved ...:thumbsup:

...the needed outlets, are they by the doorways and openings???

Two are in hallways (old layout didn't have them), one in the kitchen (2ft rule), and one in the dining room.

I moved a couple of outlets, I may have to put some more in.

...sounds like you did really well ...so you will be installing your drywall this weekend...congrats on a job well done...:D

Well, the inspector gave me a list of things to do - I started on them over the long weekend, and ended up aborting it all when I cut into my left arm with a box cutter while trimming a hole in the roof. Ended up spending saturday afternoon at the ER, to get it cleaned out (roofing tar and other crap), then for 3 stitches, and finally a tetanus shot.

So, nothing much more got done.

Now the real pisser - my roof has a leak in it, that I believe I didn't create.

Found one of the beams in the kitchen had a leak around it. At first, I thought it was the hole I cut in the roof. Upon closer examination, I can't find any evidence of that - I did find that the hanger holding up that beam was mis-installed. It was installed with just 2 nails to hole it up, all on one side!

So, walking on the roof flexed this bracket, which appears to have torn the roof. FYI, I have a flat roof in that area, and so it's a royal PITA to fix.

...oh man....that all sucks...glad you are ok though as those knifes can do alot of damage, i know...;)...if you were closer i would come by and help especially with the weather predictions...

... i hope it gets better for ya...:D

Flat roof sucks. I have been fighting a leak on my drive in for a month and a half.


Glad everything else is going good. Sucks about the er trip tho.


Oh and by the way it was nice to meet you at THaven

I cut myself with a box knife trying to follow directions for a ink cartridge refill. I was being my usual cheap self, trying to save a buck.
I sat in the ER calculating how much i would have saved buying 4 ink cartridges-no 5-no 6
Those things cut meat good huh?

I'm glad it wasn't worse, you might have found the loose beam a whole different way-later if you hadn't had this delay today. You might have just covered right over it, and had a new leaky roof.

Glad to hear the inspection went pretty well. Sucks about the injury though:( I hate injuring myself when I have work to do. It gets in the way!;)

I think we found and fixed the leak.. Roofer will be by monday/tuesday (after it stops raining) to do a permanent patch on it.

It was coming in not from the roof, but where the roof meet stucco/beams. Some roofing sealer later, and it's stopped.

Hopefully this weekend, I'll get the punch list done so I can call back the inspector, and start to pour concrete into the holes into the slab after he's gone.

Good to hear Tom. I'm sure you are getting sick of living in the middle of a construction site.

Down to 1 item on the rough inspection list - need to do a stand test on the DWV, which is a royal PITA.

Good thing I didn't glue down the tub yet, I'll need to pull it do the test.

...usually the stand test is one of the first things you have to do...good luck...:thumbsup:

...i was just curious if you had to put motion sensors in for your closet lighting and bathroom lighting...we are just now having to do this in some areas we do work...:rolleyes:

Oh, title 24 stuff.

bathroom lights - if high efficiency (ie, fluorescent) the answer is NO. Otherwise, YES, but it only has to turn off the light - I'm planning on using a motion sensor for the night light in the master bathroom, and turn-off sensor for the main lighting, and regular switches for vanity/shower light(s). the main bath is getting fluorescent light. the kitchen also has to have it's main lighting being fluorescent based.

Closet lighting - hmm.. they haven't mention that one. I know the rules change based on fluorescent vs. incandescent lights.

As for the stand test - everything else looks good except that, which I hope to get a "proceed with cover" at that point. :D

Title 24 code - Residential (http://www.energy.ca.gov/title24/2005standards/residential_manual.html)

Look HERE (http://www.energy.ca.gov/2005publications/CEC-400-2005-005/chapters_4q/6_Lighting.pdf) for just the lighting section, and it states in there for more than 70sq ft, you need sensors or high-efficiency lighting.

...we are getting called on them for any closet with a lite and bathrooms/powder rooms with flourescents per code and under 70 sq.ft...they are also letting us know that in the not so distant future, they want to update to l.e.d....:rolleyes:
...anyways, good luck on your stand test and i can't wait for the pictures...:D

Another update..

Jacuzzi tub works now! Yea! It fills really fast, like in 10 minutes. With the heater, you can just kick and relax.. I did for about 30minutes already. :D

Bad news - it totally depletes the water heater. :D I may be switching it out for a tankless, or a larger tank version; I am not sure yet which one - I am probably going to do that last, when I see how much money I have left.


I'd recommend it. We have one and have a large jacuzzi tub and it's fantastic. It keeps up relatively well even running 2 showers or shower and a washer. Well worth the money and very efficent.

Title 24 code - Residential (http://www.energy.ca.gov/title24/2005standards/residential_manual.html)

Look HERE (http://www.energy.ca.gov/2005publications/CEC-400-2005-005/chapters_4q/6_Lighting.pdf) for just the lighting section, and it states in there for more than 70sq ft, you need sensors or high-efficiency lighting.

:eek:Dang!! Darn glad I don't live in Kalifornia!! We have zero laws about what type of lights we are allowed to use in what locations (besides safety rules on wattage and wet areas). We do use quite a few high efficiency bulbs, but not everywhere....

Ok, I'm not a totally happy camper today.

In preparing for the stand test of the DWV, I found a leak.. in a place I didn't touch.. from the previous owner cutting corners.. they put a NAIL into one of the drain pipes.

:fire: :frustrate

I found the hole, and sealed it up using the ABS glue. I hope it holds.. I'd hate to dig it out to repair it, since it's sitting down on the sill plate..

FYI, always make your wet wall in your bathroom out of 2x6's.. 2x4's SUCK.

The old main bath, and the 1/2 bath in the garage was built with stacked 2x4's, for a 2x8 wide wall. I was happy to find that, that one made my life so much easier!

I'd recommend it. We have one and have a large jacuzzi tub and it's fantastic. It keeps up relatively well even running 2 showers or shower and a washer. Well worth the money and very efficent.

Well, I looked at the Paloma unit at HD, and found that if I install it, that does not void the warranty.

So, if my money holds out, I'll probably put one of those in..

Rough inspection..

PASSED


:bounce:

Congratulations!

That's great Tom!:thumbsup:

....wooohoo...:chug:....congrats tom...:thumbsup:.. is that your last inspection or do you have a final inspection left...???

....wooohoo...:chug:....congrats tom...:thumbsup:.. is that your last inspection or do you have a final inspection left...???

there is still:

drywall (nail & screw)
stucco lathe
stucco scratch
stucco brown
stucco final
final

:confused:

I was signed off on:

rough frame
rough electrical
rough plumbing
rough mechanical
insulation (wall & ceiling)

...are you doing all the rest by yourself??? you sure deserve a lot of kudos for all that you've been thru and gotten done...:thumbsup:

I have a contractor to help with the drywall hanging, taping and mud.. Also he's going to do the stucco work (lathe, scratch, brown, final.) He worked on the house next door, the city doesn't have any problems with him (they like him), and he's very reasonable (mexican labor)

Tiling, Kitchen cabinets I'm doing, counter tops there is place in SF that sells soapstone, and is willing to work with DIYer's.

Floor is from the neighbor next door, he's a floor contractor..

The best part of a crashed housing market in SFBay area - it's easy to find good contractors looking for work, they are DESPERATE now. :D

So far, I did all the electrical (planning, installation, and inspections), plumbing and mechanical work. I feel those are the most expensive ones, and I really saved a LOT of money doing it myself (helps to have a Electrical engineering degree )

...i here ya on the desperation part...i've stayed busy and my work is normal to a little above for this time of year...but, i have noticed an abundance of empty offices and shops lately and now restaurants and stores are closing...:eek:
..what brand cabinets are you installing.???

what brand cabinets are you installing.???

Ikea. I like the blum hardware, with soft close on drawers and doors. I want the lowers to be mostly drawers, with one major exception - I have to install a blind corner cabinet, and there is a "magic" drawer pull from Lee Valley Hardware that makes it really nice, instead of really stupid with a half lazy suzan setup.

...ok, i was going to say i can get you kraftmaid cabinets drop shipped to your door for cheaper than anyone, a beat their price thing...they also have have the venecia line by kraftmaid, and kraftmaid also has the blum hardware with the full extension drawers and the soft close hardware, but it's alot more than the ikea product...
...do you have any info on the magic drawer pull, i'm curious what that option is...

As for Kraftmaid - yes, I've seen it at HD, and wasn't really impressed.

Blind Corner Unit hardware (http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=43657&cat=3,43722,43723&ap=2)

...thanks for the link on the blind base hardware...yea, kraftmaid is more impressive on extreme home makeover...;)

Are your Ikea cabinets made out of wood or particle board? A neighbor of mine has them in white, and I think they are a combination of both.

The boxes are particle board - 3/4" thick.
The fronts are wood.
The drawers are metal sides, with wood bottoms.

They now have 25 year warranty.

I was talking to the contractor that did the work on the neighbors house (and who I've decided to hire to help with the drywall & stucco work).

They spent $80k to get two additions added to their house, that enlarges the kitchen and 2 of the 3 bathrooms, but it still leaves the house with 1959 electrical, no insulation in the old walls, and other problems.

Me? It appears I'll be in for about $22k to $25k when I'm done.

I know I can't compare directly, but still, I am saving a buttload of money! I feel at least I have saved around $15 to $20k. doing alot of the work myself.

You saved at least that much. I have another job coming up in Oakland in the next few months. I will have to come check it all out. You could save some more if you do the drywall yourself. It isn't that hard once you get the hang of it.

Come on up Matt..

FYI, passed another inspection today - Stucco Lathe. Stucco scratch coat goes on tomorrow, and I am almost done with hanging drywall, and probably get the drywall screw/nail inspection next week.

:hammer:

Oh, and yes, I have pictures of during and will take pictures of after.

Ok, here's some before/after pictures.

Kitchen, destruction, and new drywall.

Main bathroom.

Dining Room

Master Bathroom - note the old closet, and pocket door. Now it's a walk in closet.. and the pocket door switched sides, with the electrical moved AWAY from the jacuzzi tub space.

Getting close. Are you getting sick of living in a construction zone?

Jacuzzi tub - note the old tub was stuck in a corner, with a American Standard pressure balanced, 2.5gpm valve to fill it.. Yuck!

The new jacuzzi tub is centered now, and has a roman style faucet to fill it, and a hand held shower to clean up with. This tub also has heater! Yea!

Lotta work there Tom! Looking good though!:thumbsup:

I'm sick of it.

Hopefully, a just a few more months..

I found that just about all the beams in the house sit in pocket on one end, and a free on the end - which means in a good shaker, they could pop out. So, strapped they get.

Some samples of the wiring needed to add a structured media system to your house.

Last, adding insulation and replacing the single pane aluminum windows all over has quieted down the house, warmed it up ALOT.

As for drywall - the count was:

34ea 12x4 sheets of 1/2" white
6 ea 8x4 sheets of 5/8" white
4 ea 8x4 sheets of 5/8" green
14 ea 8x4 sheets of 1/2" green

and 4 big boxes of drywall screws 1-5/8".

As for the wiring - to completely rewire house, I used:

1250 ft of 12ga wire
100 ft of 14ga wire
150 ft of 10ga wire
400 ft of quad structured media wire.
and countless number of single, 2, 3 and 4 gang boxes.

I wired the majority of the house with 12ga, even if it didn't need it. that way, I can easily bump circuits to 20amps if needed.

We also shimmed the drywall around the beam that separates the kitchen from the dining room, so it's vertically plumb, plus sheared one side of it - it really wasn't joined very well to the roof and other parts.

This weekend is doing final drywall clean up (a few holes to finish patching, a few more screws to place..)

Jacuzzi tub - note the old tub was stuck in a corner, with a American Standard pressure balanced, 2.5gpm valve to fill it.. Yuck!

The new jacuzzi tub is centered now, and has a roman style faucet to fill it, and a hand held shower to clean up with. This tub also has heater! Yea!

Really, heat? That's what I'm looking for. We have a garden tub that's too small, and a shower that's too small. I want to remove both and put in a larger, jacuzzi, tub, and if it had heat, that would be a double bonus! Sounds like this thing is just the ticket! Who makes it?

You are really humping along-
What will you do with yourself when it's finished?:D

Really, heat? That's what I'm looking for. We have a garden tub that's too small, and a shower that's too small. I want to remove both and put in a larger, jacuzzi, tub, and if it had heat, that would be a double bonus! Sounds like this thing is just the ticket! Who makes it?

It's made by Jacuzzi, and it's from Lowes.

I cheated, and got one of the 10% off moving coupons, and went in ordered/picked it up. I also picked up the shower walls and base, plus the fixtures for the tub all at the same time.

Do note - it will not warm the water up, it will simply maintain temperature.

Also, you need two dedicated GFCI 15amp circuits - one for the pump, one for the the heater.

As for what I'm going to do - plenty of yard work to do still..

So, this is an example of the wiring and boxes I pulled from the house.

The wire is known as 50c clothe jacketed - at 50degrees Celsius it starts to burn! :eek: It also had no ground wire. Also found a MBWC - multiple Branched wired circuit. That's when you share a neutral between circuits. I removed that sucker also! No shared neutrals in this house!

The new wire is 90c jacketed - so it's much, much higher temperature rating.

The boxes is also small - barely big enough for 2 wires, plus a fixture.

It's made by Jacuzzi, and it's from Lowes.

I cheated, and got one of the 10% off moving coupons, and went in ordered/picked it up. I also picked up the shower walls and base, plus the fixtures for the tub all at the same time.

Do note - it will not warm the water up, it will simply maintain temperature.

Also, you need two dedicated GFCI 15amp circuits - one for the pump, one for the the heater.

As for what I'm going to do - plenty of yard work to do still..

Nice, thanks. I'll have to keep that in mind. Yeah, my wife complains that the water cools off too fast. Insulation sucks and they stuck the tub out in free space with open air under and in 2 sides. This would be nice!

More signed off!

drywall - DONE.
stucco lathe - DONE.
stucco scratch - DONE.

:hammer: :bounce:

Now, I need to find a earthquake shutoff valve for the gas line..

there is still:

drywall (nail & screw)
stucco lathe
stucco scratch
stucco brown
stucco final
final

:confused:

I was signed off on:

rough frame
rough electrical
rough plumbing
rough mechanical
insulation (wall & ceiling)

...check with your local gas company...they may supply it for you and/or install it for you...they have for me...if not, they can assist in locating it...;)

...check with your local gas company...they may supply it for you and/or install it for you...they have for me...if not, they can assist in locating it...;)

PGE will not help.

http://www.pge.com/myhome/edusafety/naturaldisaster/earthquake/gasshutoff/


If a customer installs an excess flow gas shutoff valve or earthquake actuated gas shutoff valve, it should be one that is certified by the State of California and it should be installed by a licensed plumbing contractor in accordance to the manufacturers instructions. PG&E does not install or service seismic actuated or excess flow gas shutoff valves, or recommend specific contractors for customer applications.

...wow, it doesn't seem like it was that long ago...:scratch:

http://socalgas.com/safety/valves.shtml

What if I already have a valve installed on The Gas Company's side?

If you have a valve that was installed by The Gas Company or one of its authorized contractors on or before the February 10, 2002 cutoff date, with proper documentation your installation may be allowed to remain in place

So, I continue the saga of pulling down drywall, so I can insulate, seal, and do earthquake safety repairs..

The fireplace mantel is brick, and it's all loose.. so it's coming off to be re-built - I'm leaning towards travatine, I think the color would be a good match. I also want to put a wood burning insert in the fireplace, and they usually are all black.

This shows where I need to do the earthquake repair - the beam isn't really held in place, and can slide/move around.

Tom, you certainly don't go half assed on anything:D Looks like you are continuing to do a great job of restoring your place:thumbsup:

Yea, I remember the line from This Old House - "once you open the walls, your in for a world of trouble."

And that is the TRUTH!

I'll have one the safest homes on the block, and it will be energy efficient too!

Cool choice on the IKEA cabinets. I've been looking through the IKEA online catalog a bit and know when I move I'm going to order furniture from there.

How old was this house that it only had 2-conductor electric wire in it? Even my grandparent's house built in the late 1950s has a hot, neutral, and ground. The ground was connected to the metal electric boxes themselves, this was before the plastic ones. The outlets themselves were 2-prong.

Cool choice on the IKEA cabinets. I've been looking through the IKEA online catalog a bit and know when I move I'm going to order furniture from there.

How old was this house that it only had 2-conductor electric wire in it? Even my grandparent's house built in the late 1950s has a hot, neutral, and ground. The ground was connected to the metal electric boxes themselves, this was before the plastic ones. The outlets themselves were 2-prong.

The house was built around the fall of 1959. I know the exact age, because I found the original building permits!

Matt (Rockranger) and his wife Tracy stopped by, and gave me a helping hand last Sunday - Hanging corner bead is no fun by yourself!

Thanks Matt & Tracy!

I have since proceeded to sand the tip off of one of my fingers, and boy does it hurts..

Some pics, and the fireplace disaster..

Now, the hard part - choosing colors to paint with. The ceiling in here DOMINATES the colors, and I am NOT painting it - so it really does limit what colors I can choose.

Tracy and I were glad we were able to help you out. You are doing a great job and we can't wait to see the finished project.

That's really coming along! Looks great:D

The wire is known as 50c clothe jacketed - at 50degrees Celsius it starts to burn! :eek: It also had no ground wire.

That stuff was scary when it was brand new:eek:

I think any color would look good with a natural shade of wood-as long as it is a lighter shade.You could use the window trim to match the ceiling.

Looking good Tom.

Tom, I really wish I could've helped while I was up there but I had other crap to deal with back home:rolleyes:

I'll be back up there around the 19th of this month to help out Matt again so hopefully I can find time to help you out as well if you can wait;)

I'll keep in touch

I have the contractor back doing more drywall, and we will be ready to paint starting after next week...

I had them start to sand the old walls with the painted on texture, and that stuff is HARD. 36 grit sand paper with a palm sander, and it barely dents it. Then it gets skim coated, and the whole place is back to smooth wall.

When you sand the old wall be careful of lead paint. I remember you said your house was built in 1959. Lead paint was in use till the late 70's if I remember right.

How is the new insulation holding up to the heat that is happening right now? How much cooler is the house staying?

The insulation, silver roof, and windows make a HUGE difference in the current heat wave.

BTW, tomorrow (Friday), I'm having the contractor prime the walls!

Yea!

Getting there, whew, what a job. :thumbsup:

"What a long, strange trip it's been" :D

Finally on the down hill side of the sanding and creating a HUGE dust mess!

HD put the paint sealer on sale this weekend I've been using - it's normally $89/5 gal bucket, but they have a rebate of $20/5 gal and $5/1 gal.

Yea!

This is a partial dry-lay of the tile pattern I'm going for in the master bath.

Also, because we sanded/skim coated the old walls, you can't see or find where the old work ends, and the new works begins! :D

Good choice on the diagonal tile layout, and the walls are looking great:D

Can't beat that sale on sealer either. That saved some $$$!

Finally on the down hill side of the sanding and creating a HUGE dust mess!..

Tom..didn't you get a drywall vacuum sander attachment for your shop vac? I bought one for about $20-30 from Lowes a couple of years back when I finished our basement and it's been worth every penny! Almost no dust to cleanup afterwards:thumbsup:.

Tom..didn't you get a drywall vacuum sander attachment for your shop vac? I bought one for about $20-30 from Lowes a couple of years back when I finished our basement and it's been worth every penny! Almost no dust to cleanup afterwards:thumbsup:.

Got one, tried it, and it didn't really work very well. Because I wanted smooth wall, that's one hell of alot of sanding. We also power sanded the old walls to get rid of the paint texture, and that also created a HUGE mess, since it had to also be skim coated and then sanded too.

The good news of all this mess - you can't see the old vs. new drywall. It's very difficult to find the seams now.

Here's the Whirlpool tub wall - still missing one row of edging tiles, and needs to be cleaned then grouted.

Wow!
That is looking very nice!

Great job!

So, things are moving along again.. it seems like you hit spots that NOTHING happens (but in reality, there is something happening..)

Later this week, I get to move the toilet from the main bath to the master bath, and the vanity.

Here's the tile work I just finished - it's still missing a border set along the wall from the floor up to the top of the bath area, and the marble threshold. Everything in here is from Lowe's.. Rialto Beige tile in 16x16, with parts from the 6", 4", 2" sheets, and 4" accent pieces. Grout is the Latecrete SpectraLock epoxy grout - no sealing needed, and it's NICE stuff (but pricey!)

BTW, I've never laid tile before doing this bath. :D

Tom, that looks like a professional tile job. Have you done that before?

...Nice layout of the "Diamonds", and nice work...:D

...:thumbsup: ..on the use of Latecrete, saves on pre-mixing the additive...

That's very neat work!:thumbsup:

Thanks..

It took longer to cut the tile for the floor than to lay the tile on the floor. Dry laying paid off big time for the floor when I did lay it however.

JT, I'm no tiling professional, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn sometime last year.. :D

It's funny, but the tile pattern in the Main bath will be easier, and simpler. You'd think I would of picked the easy pattern first, right?

Are you using an electric or manual slide tile cutter? How thick are the tiles?

Are you using an electric or manual slide tile cutter? How thick are the tiles?

My neighbor is a flooring contractor - except he can't lay tile floors (some California contractor license thing..). One day, he didn't know that, and bought a tile saw, laid a floor.. then found out afterwards, he wasn't licensed to do that.

So, that saw has been storage.. I borrowed it, and that's what I've been using to cut tile.

See attached for thick - the other thing I really like about these tiles is they are porcelain..

Daaaaang. I don't feel so bad about my garage now! :p:

That's an impressive tile saw- your neighbor has some money tied up in that thing.

Tile work looks really good :thumbsup: When you get done, I have a couple bathrooms that need some work. I'll provide a place to sleep and 3 meals a day in exchange for labor ;)

That's an impressive tile saw- your neighbor has some money tied up in that thing.

Tile work looks really good :thumbsup: When you get done, I have a couple bathrooms that need some work. I'll provide a place to sleep and 3 meals a day in exchange for labor ;)

Uhm, no, why would I want to visit Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr Kansas?

btw, I have visited Arkansas.. and then promptly left. :D

Got a shower stall now in the master, just need to caulk and order the glass walls - going to probably get it from http://www.wilsonglass.com since they are local to me.

The stall is 100% solid surface, so it should be easy to keep clean. I also put a American Standard valve that is adjustable on both pressure and temperature - unlike the cheaper valves that only give you a temperature choice.

...:thumbsup:... for getting the valves that control both pressure, and temp...I have about fried myself turning the lever for more pressure, only to receive hotter water at a dribble...:eek:

..So, are you going to have a big housewarming when it's finished???

...:thumbsup:... for getting the valves that control both pressure, and temp...I have about fried myself turning the lever for more pressure, only to receive hotter water at a dribble...:eek:


No dribbles in this bathroom! :D It's funny the AS valves are really no more expensive than the none pressure adjustable ones..


..So, are you going to have a big housewarming when it's finished???

I am planning on it..

...I am truely excited to see you are near the end, and will finally be able to enjoy all of the "New" house...:D

busy, busy, busy..

trimming out everything - all pine, no MDF.

pour SLC over the floor warming mat, and then layed tile in the main bath; not finished yet in there..

funny thing - I am one tile short of the big tiles; I would be 1 extra, but I had one crack on me when cutting, and I didn't like the cut I did on the other one. Somehow, six months ago, I almost hit the correct # of tiles to buy..

My other interesting factoid of the day - water hammer arresters really do quiet down the pipes. They seem to help not just with the hammer, but noise too.

looking good tom.

That's looking great.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=48819&stc=1&d=1213632586

That sure isn't the bathroom I remember:D Great job! I wish our builder had done such nice tile work:rolleyes:

That sure isn't the bathroom I remember:D Great job! I wish our builder had done such nice tile work:rolleyes:

yea, the 1959 baby blue is GONE.

Builder grade just sucks big time. I will never buy a 'new' house that I didn't get to choose the tile, flooring and wall colors.

The main living area walls is Almond Cream - an off white. I finally figured out how to choose color on the walls - think of them as ceilings! :D

How is it coming Tom. I remember you saying that your permit was coming due here pretty soon. Are you going to make it or have to extend it?

How is it coming Tom. I remember you saying that your permit was coming due here pretty soon. Are you going to make it or have to extend it?

Permit expires on Aug 22nd.. That's the 1 year mark for the permit.

I hope I'm doing good, looking at flooring; Stranded Bamboo glue down floor for the house, cork for the kitchen..

We are almost done with trim; need to do window stools... Everything else is looking good!

Yea, bathroom tiling is DONE.

Got a plan to build a removable panel for the front of the jacuzzi, just got to find time..

I will in a few days finally be able to take a shower for the first time in over 6 months!

Yea, bathroom tiling is DONE.

I will in a few days finally be able to take a shower for the first time in over 6 months!
Nice tiling job! I like the curved edge tiles. I'm sure that everybody which works with you will appreciate the job even more after you take a shower!:D

Nice tiling job! I like the curved edge tiles. I'm sure that everybody which works with you will appreciate the job even more after you take a shower!:D


Yup.

The part that totally blows me away about this tile job - all off the shelf from Lowe's, spent just under $1k for all the tile, and another $140 for the Epoxy grout.. It all looks GREAT!

Tom, please take a shower.

:p:

That looks very good. Something to be proud of for years.

Nice!

I forgot a picture of the floor and marble threshold in the main bath..

Did you use the kind of epoxy grout which comes with it's own bucket for mixing?
About a gallon bucket to hold a quart of grout?

Did you use the kind of epoxy grout which comes with it's own bucket for mixing?
About a gallon bucket to hold a quart of grout?

Yup, Latecrete SpectraLock from Lowe's.. too bad Lowe's is discontinuing it.

It is a PITA to use huh? That's what I used in our bathroom. Hemp color

I noticed it had about half the advertised coverage. How about you?

On the other hand-it is very good stuff. Not a stain or problem in ours after about 4 years.
And it doesn't need a sealer--big bonus.

It is a PITA to use huh? That's what I used in our bathroom. Hemp color

I noticed it had about half the advertised coverage. How about you?

On the other hand-it is very good stuff. Not a stain or problem in ours after about 4 years.
And it doesn't need a sealer--big bonus.

Well, it's messy stuff to clean up; and you don't do large swaths of it either.

I picked SpectraLock because it's supposed to be mold and stain proof, and no sealer needed. So far, it's matched 100% in all the batches - so I'm happy with it, other than the cost of it.

...Looking good...In fact, you are probably close to final inspection???..With all these items finishing up at once, ae you ready to go professional???

...I just seen a new show on cable called "Holmes on Homes"...It's a must see show...:thumbsup:

...Looking good...In fact, you are probably close to final inspection???..With all these items finishing up at once, ae you ready to go professional???


Uhm, no.

The details are the killer! Besides, I'd have to take a pay cut - unless I could start flipping houses and making $100k per flip after expenses (yea, right..)


...I just seen a new show on cable called "Holmes on Homes"...It's a must see show...:thumbsup:

Holmes on Homes is an old show for me.. The DVR picked up all the current episodes showing the US about a year ago. I want to see the 2008 season, but they haven't showed them yet.

I just ordered the shower glass for the master bath shower- $1500 out the door! - http://www.wilsonglass.com

Flooring - another $8k for the cork and stranded bamboo, plus another $1k for floor prep machine rental (need to shot blast the floors..)

Started on it - first step, getting the hump and swells out of a section of concrete floor..

I rented a concrete scarifier. Yep, it's a gas powered planer for concrete.

Also got part of the flooring today - it's going to be NICE! Too bad it's a glue down, so we need to blast off the old mastic..

...Now that looks like fun...:popcorn:

Has Holmes decided to start using nails yet? Or is he still screwing everything together?

...lol, I thought I was the only one that caught that...:D

...lol, I thought I was the only one that caught that...:D

Watch the Pasadena 911 episodes.. He shows problems with nails that screws solves (Engineered lumber, the nails just bounce off it..), and talks about the nails vs. screws in California.

Floors!

Hardwood floors are:smoke::chug:

Hardwood floors are:smoke::chug:

I know; I'll take them over carpet anyday!

Except.. That isn't hardwood. :D

...Hadn't heard from you so I thought you were on vacation.:D...What are you using for base and shoe???...

Vacation?

Yea, right.. Let's see.. I rented a concrete scarifier. Leveled out the kitchen/dining room floor - that was fun. The removed all the remaining carpet, tack strips, and then the VCT tile.

The real fun began - I rented a shot blaster, and blasted all the mastic off the floor. That was fun.

All told, in under a week, $1k in machinery was rented, abused, and then returned.

The leveling the floors started. To put down the floor, it has to be within 1/8". Yea, right. Spent the last weekend doing that in just 1/2 the house - the other half we move over this weekend.

BUT, it appears I will have two completed rooms by the end of the weekend - completed as all but doors (which I also need to replace all of them..)

So, tomorrow I'm taking another day of vacation, and then working on trim, electrical, and installing closet doors. Saturday & Sunday, I'm moving everything over to the finished floor side, and then we start on finishing those floors..

Vacation? Yea, right..

You know you'd rather be scarifying an old dirty floor than sipping drinks on a tropical beach somwheres. It's looking great. I wish I had that kind of ambition.

So, I used a day of vacation on Friday to help with the floor, and spent the rest of the weekend doing finish work on the two bedrooms, and finish the electrical in the living room..

2nd bedroom pictures..

3rd bedroom, missing the closet door; all is left in the two bedrooms is touch up paint, and new door installation.

That is looking real nice. :thumbsup:

looking good tom. Tracy and I will be back in the bay area mid August. We will have to stop by and see the almost completed project.

...Looking great Tom...Looks like you are going to make it to your final inspection on time..:thumbsup:


....RockRanger, would you have some room to haul one of Tom's tires back for me???

...Looking great Tom...Looks like you are going to make it to your final inspection on time..:thumbsup:


Kinda funny story on that one - my being nice to the Inspector paid off! He reset the deadline on the permit to Oct 15, 2008 - and I didn't even ask for it! When he signed off on the last rough, he said "See you at final!". I laughed, and said "It will be a while, there is a LOT of work to do!".

Also found out, if needed, I can request another 90 day extension on the permit for FREE. :hammer:

:bounce:

Well, after a HUGE amount of work, and expense..

The floors are in! All is left on the floors is to install the transitional moldings.

Off to get a kitchen this weekend! About time!

Well, after a HUGE amount of work, and expense..

The floors are in! All is left on the floors is to install the transitional moldings.

Off to get a kitchen this weekend! About time!

You can not really tell in the pictures but the transition that Tom did here in the second picture by the french door turned out bitchen.

The house is coming along and looking very nice.

You can not really tell in the pictures but the transition that Tom did here in the second picture by the french door turned out bitchen.


That was a ROYAL PITA to do. Took most of a day also - since we had to spline everything together, and get everything done at once. We could not do just one part and then move on, it was all or nothing..

Teaser shot attached!

Getting there.. slowly!

Got my Ticor S405D sink the other day.. Dayum, this is a very nice sink for a very nice price! Ordered it from Galaxy Tool Supply - http://www.galaxytoolsupply.com

Did a pedestal sink the main bath - I just couldn't find a vanity at the right price that I liked. Also installed the thermostat for the floor heat, and turned it on. Both bathroom floors work great! The only downfall of the pedestal sink is the tile isn't heated next to it.

Also got the last of the kitchen cabinets placed. Going to pickup some soapstone slabs in a few weeks, and make counter tops!

Trust me the pictures do not do it justice!!!!!!!!!!!!! It really is beautiful.

Thanks for the tour Tom can't wait to see it finished.


On a side note, After getting to Tom's place to pick up the trailer, I totally appreciate the trips he has made to reset the server!!!!!!!!!!!

...:eek:...Wow, I haven't seen the latest pics till now...Looking good Tom...:biggthump

It's been a while since I posted.. been busy on getting the kitchen ready for countertops.

So, today, I head over to SF to pickup the soapstone slabs that I was going to cut down.

They had a new guy - in fact, the guy in charge who has been out of town for 9 months is back!

He had re-arranged the place, and it was looking much better now from the last time I visited. Here's the good news - they have too many extra cut pieces from slabs, that he wants to get rid of them. How bad does he want get rid of them? Free cutting for me, for everything except the sink.

Which means I will be getting a peninsula that is one piece (350lbs!), for a total of 2 seams.. and one seam will be really small, since it will be in the sink!

And the price? For less than I was going to pay slabs and I do the cutting!

The bad news? I have to delay the counter top for a week.

...How does that affect your permit schedule???...and is it raining up there???

...With the money you are saving, it should pay for them to cut the sink for you...:dunno:

..EDIT:..I just seen the seem placement...:confused:

Yes, they will cut the sink also. All I have to do is polish (actually, SAND!) and glue up..

It's one heck of a deal!

As for the permit.. Off to the city to get it extended. I'll just tell them "can't get the counter top installed in time" and see what they have to say. The first 90 day extension is free.

Rain? Here? SHUT UP! :D It isn't raining yet - looks like it went farther north of us.

...Let me know how it goes..;)

...We are especting R*** for the weekend...:(...The good news is, i'm not home...:D

Well, after a HUGE amount of work, and expense..

The floors are in! All is left on the floors is to install the transitional moldings.

Off to get a kitchen this weekend! About time!

I have not read this whole thread but being a hardwood flooring contractor for the last 10 years, Just a little FYI. The small gaps that you have between the flooring and the reducer can be filled with THIS (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17356&cookietest=1) and will look good as new.
Comes in every color there is. I am not picking on your work by any means. When I install a floor its always been a pet peeve for me where the floor meets a transition piece going in the other direction and there is the slightest gap. Just force the stuff in the gap and it will get hard as a rock. Granted 99.9 % of the people that walk through your house will not notice such a small gap, But a jack ass like myself would.
Stuff is cheap as well.
Nice work though. Really!

I have not read this whole thread but being a hardwood flooring contractor for the last 10 years, Just a little FYI. The small gaps that you have between the flooring and the reducer can be filled with THIS (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17356&cookietest=1) and will look good as new.
Comes in every color there is. I am not picking on your work by any means. When I install a floor its always been a pet peeve for me where the floor meets a transition piece going in the other direction and there is the slightest gap. Just force the stuff in the gap and it will get hard as a rock. Granted 99.9 % of the people that walk through your house will not notice such a small gap, But a jack ass like myself would.
Stuff is cheap as well.
Nice work though. Really!

Yea, I have several transitions to glue down still, and need to fill some areas also. My installer kept mumbling about filler.. I was just in 'Get it done!' mode.

Started raining here finally.. So I had to pull everything inside. Of course, I still have way too much crap to deal with.

...Jigawhaat, the link you posted is for the color matching soft stuff...:dunno:

...And it can also be found at Home depot and most lumber stores...;)

Yup, more coming - I get to put the rest in place on Saturday!

Santa Rita soapstone, from M. Teixeira (http://www.soapstones.com) in San Francisco

and the counter top is in!

Kitchen to do list:

1) put in undermount sink mounts
2) put on plinth (toe kicks)
3) put on door handles
4) drill holes for faucet, garbarge disposal air switch, dishwasher air gap
5) re-install garbage disposal
6) finish under kitchen sink electrical/hook ups

Almost there! Yee Haw!

All that's left after that is minor details - clean up and paint the outside, finish re-surfacing the fireplace, and build a set of covers for the jacuzzi.

I am sooooooooooooooo jealous of all the outlets in your kitchen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have 2.
Hmmmmm what to plug in toaster, coffee maker, microwave, mixer, bread maker, deep fryer, crock pot. lol none of which fit on the counters.
I hate 1946 original kitchens!!

And all this because you didn't like your bathroom...:p:

Nice job Tom.:thumbsup:

And all this because you didn't like your bathroom...:p:

Nice job Tom.:thumbsup:


thanks!

All the neighbors are ranting and raving now. They all love the soapstone, and are jealous on how I re-did the kitchen for about $9k. One neighbor is getting quotes in the $60k range!

It feels so weird to have a fully functional kitchen again. I got the faucet,, garbarge disposal installed, electrical for the garbage disposal and dishwasher, and all the under sink stuff plumbed/wired. I was going NUTS on trying to figure out how to setup the drain lines.. Finally hit upon something, and it looks GREAT! I got it all nice and neat, tucked up tight.

Looks great Tom:thumbsup: I was in Ikea yeasterday and picked up a kitchen catalog;) I think I'm going to wait on mine though:(

....It sounds like all is going well...:biggthump

...Did you get your extension and does this mean you will be able to make it down to Truckhaven????

...Keep the pics coming...:popcorn:

...Did you get your extension and does this mean you will be able to make it down to Truckhaven????



Yes, I got the 90 day extension.. the next few weekends is working on the outside, getting it prepped for painting.

Looking good:D

I'm not familiar with soapstone counters. What are the advantages/disadvantages over some of the more common counters?

Looking good:D

I'm not familiar with soapstone counters. What are the advantages/disadvantages over some of the more common counters?

It's softer than granite, so if you cut on it, you don't dull your knife.. it does not stain. it's totally heat resistant (it's used for cookware and fireplaces). Acids do not affect it (ie, citrus will stain a granite counter top). you scratch it, you get some sandpaper and presto! scratch is gone.

Final signoff on the permit occurred today.

Permit Start: 8-22-2007
Permit Finish: 12-17-2008

Yea!

:chug:

:party:

...Congratulations Tom...:salute:

...Anxiously awaiting the Final pics ...:popcorn:

Congrats! :thumbsup: We will plan to see you next month down here then...right?:rolleyes:

By the way, that reminds me....I still haven't gone to DMV to switch the trailer over:banghead:

Congrats! :thumbsup: We will plan to see you next month down here then...right?:rolleyes:

By the way, that reminds me....I still haven't gone to DMV to switch the trailer over:banghead:

you've got about 4 years to do that.. :D

As for t-haven.. I probably will not make it. Lack of vacation time and money are killing me at this moment..

I finally got the fireplace refacing done, so I get to call up the dealer and get the insert delivered and installed!

Yes, it still needs the finish applied to the wood, but I'm going to wait a little bit longer - I plan to open the windows when I'm doing that!

When are you coming over and working on my house? :D

Nice mantle. I actually like the natural color...