So, I was under my rig the other day putting in the rear 1/2 of my Skyjacker 2" lift...(thanks PimpedExplorer :D ), and I was looking at the muffler, and I was thinking, why not just take that badboy out and put on a glaspak?

Well one reason against is I think that glasspaks are just made to be loud, no performance benefit. Plus, it will probably sound pretty stupid.

If you want it to sound like a Honda Civic go with the glasspack. If you want it to sound like a bad ass V8 get Flowmaster or Borla.

Hey tommy, bout that lift. Have you installed the coils yet? I put my rear add a leaf on, piece of cake, tight look too, but problem is the coils, i cant figure out how to do it, anyone removed the front coils, i know i look stupid :banghead:

Hey Man don't feel dumb I had the same problem a few days ago. All that you have to do is get a deep socket 1-1/8 sitck it in from the top of the spring and then use an extension long enough to reach out of the top of the spring and the crank on it with the a ratchet. Mine came off pretty easy with the help of WD-40. RobbieJ

Originally posted by JayR
Hey tommy, bout that lift. Have you installed the coils yet?


No I haven't yet, and that is why...also then I have to get my alighnment done right after that, which I am not very excited about...But I will letcha know how it goes.

SO, on another note, the Glasspak is a bad idea, huh? A guy at work just put a couple on his Ch@vy V8, and it sounds pretty decent... I just want it loud, but not "rice-ee"...

Robby, I never got that far, I stoped at the part when i moved the brake caliper.I was about to work with the spring but my dad said they are under pressure and can POP right off. Can you please elaborate on the steps to disassemble the front to put in the coils, I never got the top explosed. I mean did you have to undo the sway bars and shit to get the axel to drop down enough to doit? you could also use a large 1 1/8 open end wrench.

JayR
We had to replace the front coils on our 92 when we put on the Duff lift. We did not have any problem with the spring being under pressure (at least not the stock one).

The way we removed it was to first lift/support the fron tof the vehicle by the frame (just behind the radius arm bushings). Then we removed the tires and shocks. We then loosened the radius arm bushings. At this point I could put weight on the end of the axle and get it to open up to the point that it wouldn't move anymore. Then we used a 1 1/8" socket with about 4 extensions to remove the large nut (on the 2nd side of the vehicle). The first nut we removed with a 1 1/8" open ended wrench... then we figured we weren't going to do that again.. (took us 20 minutes to get the nut off.. took 5 minutes with the socket)

When we put the longer coil on the spring was under a small amount of pressure when we were working on it.. but no where near enough to need a spring compressor.

You will need to remove the swaybar endlinks and the shocks. As far as the radius arms brakets that hold the back of thr radius arm to the frame, if you have not removed them before you will need to cut the rivit off with either a grinder or a torch. Then to remount them you will need to bole them to the frame. Now I don't know how high your lift is but even if it is 1" doing this will make it alot easier. You can also replace your radius arm bushings while you are at it.

I forgot about the sway bars... We already had them removed from ours.. and yes if you have them you will need to disconnect them first.. If I remember correctly the 2" lift you are using is just front coils.. no drop brackets.. if that is the case you don't need to remove the radius arm cross member.. but if you have access to someone that can help you grind them off I would recomend it (replace the rivots with bolts) so when the time comes to work on the arms (whether for a bigger lift or replacemnt parts) it will be much easier.

Maniak,
So let me see if i have this correct. Jack truck up , on jackstands behind the radius arm bushing on the frame, take wheels off, take shocks off.

3)loosen radius arm bushing
4)remove swaybar endlinks
now i should freely be able to move axel
5)take 1 1/8inch socket, take nut off spring
6) put new spring and put back together?
Im triing to figure all this out, because all i have is a haynes manual because no instructions came with the coils.

and will I need to remove the brake caliper assembly, and or do i need new brake lines?

We did take off the brake calipers (the hoses were too short to put on the new coils).

Once you have the sway bars and shocks removed you should be able to put weight on the axle and have it drop more than you have seen it drop before. When you loosen the Radius Arm bushing it will drop even farther. If you get it to drop and it comes back up some you were extending the coil.. let it sit where it comes to rest (after you have extended it).

It isn't as scary as it sounds.. Once things are loose and you get the nut off (or even loose) you can push down on the axle and the spring should come up off the spring pad (which also means there is no tension on it now).

Our stock brake hoses were too short. The 2.5" longer progressive rate coils were about 3" longer when first installed. We picked up a set of brake lines from Dick Cepeck (which Mickey Thompson now owns.. but hasn't re-opened the stores in Tucson yet). We did run with the stock brake lines for 3 days but I was very careful not to flex the suspension.

Stock shocks should be fine for the rear(they even work for a 2.5" Duff lift) and I don't think 2" coils will need the extra shock up front.. The shocks will be your limiting factor up front but you can tackle that later..

As for the Brake calipers.. they are kinda in the way but you don't "need" to remove them. Since they aren't hard to remove, might as well get them up and out of the way while your working.

Thanks alot Mark, Im really new at working on cars or trucks, But I got through the add a leaf fine, now on to the coils, Ill conqure them in a few days. Then the body lift.....300 for install, and im thinkin im gonna let a shop do that work