Ok, so its possible there may of been an impromptu wrestling match in the hallway last night, and its possible a human head made a large hole in the drywall. (Possibly about 1.5 sq/ft)

Assuming this was the case, how would one go about patching such a hole. Should I cut it back and square it off to the stud on one side, or both sides so it wont push back when I spackle, or just square it off and cut a piece to fit and jam it in there?

The college rental emergency drywall repair? :thumbsup:

white printer paper and scotch tape.....:-D...then hang a picture over it....

That hole in that diagram is not nearly large enough for Micah's head.. It needs to be enlarged :D

Another thing to add are 2 or more 2x4" blocks that run perpendicular to the studs for anchoring the repair piece of drywall. If the hole is about 16" or so then its no issue.. If its less another things you can do is add a piece of 3/4" plywood to the backside of the repair drywall so that it extends past the edge of the repair piece on one side for anchoring.. You'd simply anchor it to the existing by driving in a 1" or larger screw into the sheetrock. Just make sure you give it a few good layers of mud instead of globbing one large pass.

or you can do it the really really cheap way card board..

cut a peice larger than hole with finger hole in the center. use liquid nails on the insde edge. fold cardboard insert into hole, unfold. pull tight to wall with finger hole for 10-15, let dry. fill. sand fill, sand paint. :)

Square it off and take it out to the studs on both sides. That should be sufficient. Drywall tape and mud to finish the job off...

I recently did a ceiling repair job very similar to that (water damage though..not someone's noggin. About 3' long and stud to stud. You don't have to support it on the top and bottom if you tape it...that will be sufficient unless you plan on another wrestling match..then I'd reinforce it pretty well.....

ya, im just gonna run it out the the studs, its centered in the studs and I dont have far to go.

This Old House...

Large-Hole Repairs
When a hole is larger than about 6 inches in diameter, the best approach is to cut out the damaged area and patch in a new drywall piece. There are many different ways to make this repair; one approach we found simple is using the Sheetrock Drywall Repair Kit ($5.50) from U.S. Gypsum Corp. It comes with all the necessary supplies to make the repair, except the new drywall itself.

The first step of the repair is to draw a square or rectangular outline around the hole. Then, in order to remove the damaged area, cut along the lines with a drywall saw (step 1). Next, press the metal clips onto the edge of the drywall around the opening you just cut. Place one clip near each corner, making sure that the narrow spring tabs face out (step 2). Cut a new piece of drywall to fit into the opening, and then press it tightly against the metal clips. Secure the patch by driving two 1/4-inch drywall screws through each metal clip — one screw through the surrounding wall and another through the patch (step 3). Be sure the screwheads are set slightly below the surface without breaking the paper.

Now, break off the two metal tabs protruding from each clip using needlenose pliers (step 4). Cover the seams around the patch with strips of fiberglass-mesh tape (step 5), then apply a coat of joint compound over the entire area (step 6). Feather out the compound at least 4 inches beyond the tape.

Allow the repair to dry overnight. Lightly sand it smooth, then apply a second, thinner coat of compound the next day. You should sand it once more before priming and painting.

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/images/repair/rm200003_drywall2.gif

Step By Step

1. Use a drywall saw to carefully cut away the damaged section, after you have marked the cut lines on the wall.

2. Install four metal mounting clips onto the edge of the cutout. Be sure the two spring tabs on each clip face out.

3. Cut a new drywall patch to fit the cutout, then secure it with two screws driven into each of the metal clips.

4. Grab onto the metal spring tabs with needlenose pliers and snap them off below the drywall surface.

5. Cover the seams around the drywall patch with strips of self-adhesive, fiberglass-mesh tape.

6. Spread a coat of joint compound over the whole patch — not just the taped seams. When it's dry, sand it smooth and repeat.

I have used the US Gypsum kit and it is pretty ingenious how they made the parts that anchor the new piece to the old. No need to widen out to studs.

Another little tip. Amateurs tend to do a bad job with tape. I have settled on using "hot mud" as my tape mud. I also prefer paper tape, not the stick on gauze variety - with my method paper tape stays put. "Hot mud" is setting mud.... like a quick cure concrete...you can buy it anywhere drywall supplies are sold. I usually get the 90 min variety. It is stickier and seems to set the tape better than regular mud.

I first spread hot mud on the areas I am going to tape, pressing it into any cracks.... I use a banjo to tape with so the tape comes out all prepared to use, but since most folks do not have one, instead you can just take a piece of tape and lightly butter both sides with the hot mud. Press into place and using the drywall knife squeeze out any excess and clean up the appearance...let dry.

I then follow up with at least 2 and often more thin coats of regular mud to feather the ends out a ways.... finally I skim coat the entire repair, panel and all. lightly sand and yer good to go.... or spray your texture.

come on do my getto fab job you know you want to :P

ive drywalled a few rooms just never patched any holes. My tape seams are coming out pretty well by now.