If you haven't used this stuff before you should try it. This week I was installing some cove base at a Fed Ex. When you have a short side on an outside corner the cove base adhesive does.'t like to hold it while it sets. I have used staples or tape to hold it while it dries with so so success. I picked up a tube of this. Put some on the last few inches and stick it on. Hold for about 10 seconds and it is done.

Great for the things you need some strength for right after installation.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/common/graphics/products/loctite/productshots/Item_1921.jpg

Do you like this stuff better than Liquid Nails? Every now and then I have to play finish carpenter and liquid nail those little corners on because the real carpenters get lazy:rolleyes: Don't get me started on setting the nails on baseboards either:p:

Yes I like it better then liquid nails. It has a higher initial strength. So instead of having to hold the piece while the liquid nails sets up this will grab it and hold it. On covebase when you make an outside corner especally when one side is less then a few inches long this stuff works great. Short outside corners of cove base don't like to stay in place very well. This helps hold them better. Instead of using tape or staples, this will hold it 99% of time. Maybe add a little tape for an hour or two and then remove the tape and you are done.

I always make sure my nails are set and most of the time I caulk the top crack and spackle the nail holes as well. Helps me make sure everything is perfect cause you have to see every inch of base and case so I can catch any issues then. I know how lazy painters are and try to keep the crying to a minimum :D :D

Just be careful if you ever have to remove the cove base as it will take the paper layer of the sheetrock right along with it!

That is why I only use it for a few inches on the corners that do not hold well. The powergrab also pumps out harder then the normal covebase glue.

I know how lazy painters are and try to keep the crying to a minimum :D :D

Oh boy, here we go...always the painters fault:p:

As far as caulking goes I prefer to do that myself because most non-painters don't wipe the caulking clean, they usually run their finger over it and call it good. I'm sure you do a stand up job though Matt:thumbsup::D

Wet finger, clean rag, or caulk tool. As little as possible and as much as needed. I agree most put way to much on. Just like nails if a few are good a bunch must be great right?

You know how it rolls down. The foundation guy says the framer will fix it, the framer says the drywaller will fix it, the drywaller say the finish guy will fix, the finish guy says the painter will fix it, the painter says I hope the owner is blind and doesn't see it.

You know how it rolls down. The foundation guy says the framer will fix it, the framer says the drywaller will fix it, the drywaller say the finish guy will fix, the finish guy says the painter will fix it, the painter says I hope the owner is blind and doesn't see it.

This is oh so true Matt, and I thought this only happened in my neck of the woods. In all honesty, it's not that bad but i have run into a few contractors/workers like that...pass the buck.

You know how it rolls down. The foundation guy says the framer will fix it, the framer says the drywaller will fix it, the drywaller say the finish guy will fix, the finish guy says the painter will fix it, the painter says I hope the owner is blind and doesn't see it.


Is that how one of our closets ended up being like 3" out of square:eek: Funny thing is you don't really notice it until you try and slide the closet doors to the opposite sides. They squared the sliding doors to the closed side. On the open side there are HUGE gaps:rolleyes:

You know how it rolls down. The foundation guy says the framer will fix it, the framer says the drywaller will fix it, the drywaller say the finish guy will fix, the finish guy says the painter will fix it, the painter says I hope the owner is blind and doesn't see it.

Let's see..

House is a slab foundation.

Floor in master bathroom/closet is added on to original house. Contractor/PO didn't specifiy "Floor must be level." So, in a 12ft by 12ft area, the floor is out by 1.75". Other portion has a huge swell in it, that will need a terrazzo type grinder to remove.

$1500 in SLC later, floor is almost level..

:rolleyes:

Of course, the framing in that area isn't square..

Oh, they also make an outside version of this stuff, and it works great. I used it to glue in place the missing roof gable vents (I had to find a 4" grit hole saw to cut the stucco..)

Let's see..

House is a slab foundation.

Floor in master bathroom/closet is added on to original house. Contractor/PO didn't specifiy "Floor must be level." So, in a 12ft by 12ft area, the floor is out by 1.75". Other portion has a huge swell in it, that will need a terrazzo type grinder to remove.

$1500 in SLC later, floor is almost level..

:rolleyes:

Of course, the framing in that area isn't square..

Could it have been that the slab was a patio and they just framed right over it? The PO of Tracy's parents house is like that. Half the family room is level then where the addition is added on it slopes out to the sliding glass as if the slab used to be the outside patio.

Could it have been that the slab was a patio and they just framed right over it? The PO of Tracy's parents house is like that. Half the family room is level then where the addition is added on it slopes out to the sliding glass as if the slab used to be the outside patio.

I never thought of that..

But no, it's not - there is actually footings under it, along with hot/cold pipes and sewer.

Besides, the patio slab that does exist is - get this - level.

:rolleyes: