Time for me to live upto my name ( Sorta, anyway ) My money definately "GoesFast" out of my wallet.

My conversion project is now underway. I have actually spent money.

I have a local Speed Shop doing the work and I am being active in teh process.

The goal. A 302 F.I. motor and an AOD automatic tranny.
The motor will give me about 275 HP at the crank. Should have plenty of torque. The AOD has a 2.48 first gear and a a 33% overdrive in forth. With 5.13 gears ( Yep ) and 35" tires I'll be turning 2300 RPM at 70 mph. 2100 RPM if I have 4.56 gears. The tranny is fully locked in 3rd & 4th gear so no slippage and little heat.

Price.. So Far

Motor & Shipping $1600
306 CI, freshly built plus a few extras thrown in for the conversion. Double hump Oil Pan,All Accessories mounts,Hi Flow water pump, etc.

Tranny $1300
Rebuilt No Core charge Over the counter. Included a Torque Converter and the linkage to fit a late Model V8 explorer for shifting.

Advanced Adapters $575
I got the 50-8404 9" adapter. This includes the new outut shaft so the T-fer case will fit. Should put the Transfer Case about 1" maybe 1/12" longer than stock. My drive shaft was very close to being to short after the 5.5" lift so I may not need a new back shaft. The front one may be in trouble....


Pictures will be shown we the action starts. It will be about 5 to 6 weeks before the Motor & tranny are finished.

Anyone have a cheap $300 car for sale? I'm tired of walking....

Wow Rob, the decision was made? Well, good luck to ya and I wanna see the pics as the project moves along!
Pete

Rob,
Definitely keep us posted. (BTW - sorry for the abscence over the past few months). I have a mechanic's shop listed for sale and will get about 5k worth of mods for free - the V-8 conversion may be the choice. Anyhow - keep us posted :)

Nice choice Rob. When everything is finished I bet you will still spend money on the engine. There is so much aftermarket stuff for the 302. I am actually looking for a 302 for my J**p. Where did you get yours from?

Don't get an AOD, you need an A4LD but '94 and up. Much better transmission with a lower first gear.

Hey Brian,

I went to this link http://www.corral.net/ and sent an e-mail to "Jim,the Stang". It was about the best deal around. He has several motors to choose from. You can add and delete options too.

The local salvage yards wanted thier money plus interest for the next 10 years on thier used motors.

I still need to purchase Power steering pump, and the Altenator and starter plus the radiator. Also, need the computer & intake for the throttle body. A lot of little pieces.

This isn't a cheap thing to do, but I'll have a new motor and tranny when I'm done, plus all the mods I can stand. Can't wait to hear the exhaust either.

Let the fun begin!

PS. Looking for a part time second job in the Dallas area, let me know if you hear of anything...

Rob, for the alternator, I've bought a high output one from
http://www.mechman.com. It was expensive for my alternator but it's excellent. I'm very impressed with it. Just saying this cause now that you're goin all out into replacing this, I could only assume that you want the best of every thing and these guys make great alternators.
Thanks,
Pete.

Just posting so that I can get e-mails on the updates. I'm looking forward to hearing how it all turns out.
Robert

what year is your explorer? make sure to keep us posted,
im excited about seeing how this all comes together!

Paul, Keep the A4LD? That's the whole reason behind this. I can't find any tranny shop that will an A4LD behind a 300HP motor. Not to mention bigger tires. No adapters available either. Yes, the first gear is lower, but I'll be adding 5.13 gears and an Atlas II next year. So gearing isn't a big concern.

My truck is a 94 model. I paln on documenting this pretty well and taking lot's of pictures. I'm going to package this set-up and offer it to others through the "Speed Shop".

I'll give out lot's of details, but will offer it to those who don't want to mess with the wrenching part.

I'm in waiting right now. 3 to 4 weeks on the tranny and about 5 weeks on the motor. I'm also looking for a cheap POS to drive until my truck is ready. I want a $500 something....

Thanks Rob

Hey Gofast! Maybe you and I can work something out and you can use one of my vehicles temporarily. My lifted explorer would be okay it just needs to be inspected and registered. 58.00 registration and 15.00 for inspection. Let me know and I will see about getting these things done, then we can work out something.

Brain Fart!

I meant 4R70W not A4LD. Sorry about that!

I was worried about you for a minute Paul.

Yep the 4R70 is better, but still really tough to get adapters for a 302 and that tranny.

Looks like my Banf vacation is out now too. :(

Rob if you have not already considered this here is another wrench you could throw in your project. Have you considered a Dana 20 from an EB? They may or may not bolt right up to the AOD but I am sure that Advanced Adapters has something that would work to do this conversion. PLUS you can get a 4 to 1 kit for this Transfercase AND its gear drivin AND its done by sticks on the floor instead of buttons on the dash.

Just another thing to consider.

Located a computer for the 302 from a fellow board member. Still looking at wiring harnesses. Have a local contact that can get them for roughly $150 or so. Also will be installing 5.13 gears.

There are a ton of "little things" you need for this project. Anyone doing this next, start looking for a good donar 302 & tranny now. There getting a little scarce. Best years to use are 89 to 93 mustang.

Ryan, I plan on going to the Atlas II once my t-case goes.
I looked at the Dana 20 route but after adding in the cost of the 4:1 kit and buying a Dana 20 and having the kit installed it didn't seem like I was spending that much more for the Atlas II. Maybe $800? ( doesn't sound bad after this mod )

More later

Gofast,
Are you planning on doing most of the work yourself??
It is always nice to be able to say;"yes I put that in."
I was planning on doing that to ours, but since we got one with lower miles then I thought, we decided to wait.
Looking forward to seeing it a Moab or CCR2001
Good Luck!!

I want to get in here so I can keep informed on your progress.
Now ya want the rest of the story...

The 86 2.9L EFI I was about to pull out, cause I KNEW I KILLED IT about a month ago....

I'll give ya a little history on the truck.
First saw the truck in '90 when it came into my shop after being oil starved from a stopped-up p/u screen. 107,000 miles on a diet of 8-12,000mi oil changes. Rebuilt the engine A-Z bored/honed/heads w/5 angle, 3 on seat, two on valves. Guides worked & honed, Clean-up on bowls etc, and so on. The only outside work was the crankshaft turn & polish. Every Spec. to Min. factory tolerence, at that time the only things aftermarket were pistons & gaskets. Lifters, O/P, Cam, Timing Set, and I think bearings came from Ford via W/Germany... Parts, my cost then 900+. OUCH.

In '94 I buy the truck for 600, with a serious flooding addiction, after serious time and effort I weaned it to about 15-30sec of flooding after start-up, every start-up.
SO... it stayed running, alot, I MEAN ALOT, Texas heat and I'd leave it run... A/C on... if I was going to be back in it anytime soon, next hour or so... I do alot of service calls for marine work also. In 94 it had 250,000+ on the truck 150,000 or so on the motor, 325,000 or so total miles now.
It dumped all, ALL the belts while sitting in front of the marina about a month ago. I was inside 15-20min. came out, it had blowed the heater core, cab full of steam, temp gauge was pegged !
I hopped in, turned heater on full, and drove 7.5 miles home... No Belts. I figured it was dead, but IT didn't know that at the marina. It died when I got home, so I said farewell and transfered to the Explorer.

Now today, getting ready to put it in the shop, I checked it out expecting h2o in the pan, from the heads at least. No water, in the oil that is, or anywhere else either. It turned over... IT STARTED... IT HELD WATER !! (except H/C)

I think H/C, belts, lower hose, & V/C gaskets this poor abused Ranger may live again... WITHOUT a heart transplant...

I feel a BLOWER 4.0L OHV build coming on....

Any estimates on how much Power can be squeezed out of a BBK blown & tweeked '94 OHV 4.0L ?

Not that I am in any hurry, my '93 Limited hit 27,777 miles as I rolled in the driveway tonite.

JACKPOT !!! ;)

Perry, I'm doing a lot of it but not all. I'm having someone else build the motor. I'm putting the F.I. and of course computer and wiring harness togather. This is all stuff I could do and have done before, but my wife was pretty adament about how much time I had to do this myself. She's right, I have to many things going on.

Anyway, Tranny is being built by a local shop using the Advance Adapters kit to mate it to my BW T-fer case.

I have a mechanic actually pulling the old motor & tranny and dropping in the new one. He has a speedshop and will co-ordinate all the tuning afterwards. No chip on this one, Dyno tuning is the plan.

I'm real excited about this project. I should put about 275 HP at the crank with an RV cam. Torque is the main objective.

Larry, unbelievable amount of abuse the old Ranger is taking and still running!

What about the cooling system? What kind of radiator are you using and are you going to use an electric fan? Let us know how the project goes.

Great question on cooling. I will use an Aluminumn 4 core radiator. I have two choices.

1 is the radiator offered by Advanced Adapters for close to $400 I think. It mounts basically where the condensor mounts now. Kinda under the front radiator support brace. The filler is relocated off to the side and you have to mover the condensor forward of it's current location. This gives you more room for a mechanical fan.

I'm going with a custom Aluminumnmmmnmn ( Love that word ) 4 core radiator built for a late model mustang. I'll fab mounts. I will also use an electric fan assembly from a 98 Cobra ( I think, may be an earlier year ) It pulls 1000+ cfm. It keeps a lot of the stroker high horse motors cool on those stop and go 100 degree plus days here in Dallas.

I'm going to mount "A" pillar pods in my truck and put a trans temp, oil temp, and a water temp gauge in them.

My goal is to keep my cool.
( and maybe win a burnout contest )

GoFast---The setup is soundin better and better!
Keep up the good work!
Pete

Fifty bucks says that when Gofast gets this all installed it won't be long before he goes the rest of the way. I know him. The thought of a monster lifted BigDawg Explorer with decent 1/4 times, now THAT would be a toy.

Nitrous?
Turbo or Blower?
Divorce?

Stay tuned, fans, this will be fun in about a half year....

While I am at it, I guess I will ask one more question. I believe you mentioned that some of the best swaps are engines from 89-93 Mustangs. I might be mistaken, but I thought that some smog laws stated that the engine had to be the vehicle year or newer. Have you checked into Smog laws or do you not have to worry about that in your area? If anyone knows, I was also wondering about the engine. If the law exists regarding year of the engine, does it have to be the entire engine, or just the fuel injection and smog equipment. IE a block and heads from an 89, and the injection and such from a 95.

Okay...one more question...headers. Did you find some that will fit, and depending (I guess the 89-93 might not have had the O2s) on the injection and computer, did you find some with O2 location already drilled.

Sounds like an awesome swap. Let us know how it comes along. Good luck!!!!

Great question.

Check with your local DMV people to see what they require.

I'm going to be completely smog legal. Not sure what they check, but the block is decked and any markings will be gone. ( If they stamp them in the same place that chevy used too ) All the top end intake stuff is going to be new 2000 model stuff. I'm going with Trick Flow intake set-up. The computer and wiring harness are 89 to 93 stuff. Headers are going to ceramic coated shorties. I'll have to integrate the O2's downline somehow. Not sure if the Mustang uses before the cat and after the cat O2's? I'm thinking they use only 2 O2's and they are after the cats. I'm planning on true duals with Highflow cats.

BTW...Don't bet with Gerald. He has inside info ( Knows me to well ) The Turbo is a possability down the road. Nitrous is fun but the long term cost of filling the bottle's make it more expensive. Supercharger add's most of it's power as the RPM's go up. I need the grunt to kick in full by 2500 RPM's at the latest. Divorce is very low odds. I'm doing all this with full consent and complete disclosure. Almost 17 years of marriage now and believe me it's much easier to open and upfront about money and what you want to buy than to try and cover it up.

Rob,
The H/P to RPM ratio you speak of is true for Turbos as well as Centrifugal style of blowers, Vortech etc.

A roots type blower brings in the power at a much lower rpm than a Vortech type. Roots Blowers provide a more constant boost pressure through-out the RPM range. Not enough boost on the low end... change pulleys.

The BBK V6 set up, so they claim, brings in 70% boost pressure by 1800 RPM. My experience with other roots/Eaton/4-14/71 type blowers makes me accept their claim as fact.
The only Centrifugal unit I care for is the ATI Procharger, but... still no bottom end.

I'm curious as to where either system, or a turbo would fit in the engine compartment without hood, inner fender, or body lift modifications.

But like the saying goes "Where theres a will theres a way". Keep The Faith Bro... And treat the better half to something nice, it do help in the long run.

Just a weekly update on the behind the scenes action.

I just picked up the complete Fule Injection set-up for my motor. I had a friend that just happend to have the complete intake, Fuel Rails, Injectors, wiring Harness, Computer, distributer, Throttle Body, and Mass air sensor.

Todays good deal $175.00

I now have 2 computers so I have a back-up just in case.

Other news, About 1 week away from having the tranny done.

About 3 weeks away from having the motor done and delivered.

Concerns for this week. Exhaust. I have ordered Hi Flow cats and 2 Flow something mufflers. My bother-in-law runs a muffler shop so I'll get whatever he sends. Going to have duals with 2 1/2 inch pipes on this machine. Still trying to figure out the routing. I'll crush anything that goes out the back, so My ideal set-up would be to have the turn outs behind the wheels. I may have them both exit on the same side too. Still not sure.


Other junk....

I am now driving the ugliest truck in the world. It's a loaner from a friend ( $200, unlimited use )but, it is sure ugly. Picture later. I still get sick looking at it.

Hey Rob, anything new with the swap? Just checking to see whats up, and what all has been done,a nd anything else you got.

Rob, I dont know if you ever saw where my duals are coming out on my 92, but they are coming out right behind each rear wheel. I had them coming out straight out the rear and when we all went to 380 i smashed them. Since you have a lift on your truck there is no need for your spare to be underneath so you have plenty of room to run them to both sides and go right in between the frame and leaf springs. Setup works great on mine.

The ugly donor truck has to be a chevy or a foreign POS. Those are the only possiblities... :-)

Good luck on the swap and keep us posted. I have been seriously considering this swap as I can't seem to keep my truck out the tranny shop (7 times since last Nov...). Make sure to take a lot of pics too.

Originally posted by Gofast
Located a computer for the 302 from a fellow board member.

Glad you liked it. I see you now have two computers. Remember, I got the one from the '89 model because, according to rangerpowersports.com, "The most 'aggressive' with the timing and spark computer is the one installed in the '89 automatics. Ford did this since the automatics were much slower than the 5-speeds, and this was one way to speed 'em up a tad."

Glad you reminded me of that difference. I have a 90 model Auto computer too. When this is fired up it will spend some time on the Dyno being custom tuned for best numbers. I think this might change the basic programing. If that's true I could use either Computer if they are really changing the timing and fuel curves...Still got a lot to learn here.

Nothing new yet on the conversion. Waiting on the tranny and motor.


BTW, I may have become a headcount casualty in the merger my company is going through. Good severance package though.

Just curious what kind of gas milage you expect. Would it have been easier to take a 302 out of a newer explorer? Is it a price issue, or would all the components not match up? Just curious because a friend of mine just totalled his and it should be up for sale soon! My explorer has the 5.0 and it only has 210 stock, but about 230 now. It is still a dog. I hope the difference with the transfer case and more horses makes a difference. I would like to know how the driving will be with that kind of power on a coil front end, lifted, and soo much power. Good luck, I'll be watching, taking notes, and cheering you on!

I've been following your post with interest. I hope to do the same kind of swap to my '91 Explorer. Are there any updates yet?

OK, small update on the project.

Dropped off the new AOD with the Advance Adapters kit installed. My transfercase should bolt right up with the tranny now.

The V6 and all the associated stuff is now removed.

This clears the way to start installing the new 302. Just a note here, I opted for the Mustang 302 because for $1500 it was completely rebuilt with new parts. I was also able to get a few "Hot Rod" parts installed to increase torque.

Before we start the 302 install, I am having the new gears and Locker installed. Should have this done this week.

I'm hoping to get 15 mpg when this is done. It will be tuned on the Dyno, so it will be interesting to see my torque numbers. Also hoping to have the truck running by Thanksgiving.

More news when I have it. Good stuff starting soon.

Thanks Rob

Can't wait to see and hear the beast when she's done! This is going to be an awesome project!!

Whoa! I am impressed! That's a hell of alot of work to be doing at once! I'm awaiting pictures, as well as I am curious if you'll have a list once the project is complete as to what you used in all aspects of your project....It's down the road for me....But hey, I can plan ahead can't I?
Thanks,
Pete

Gofast--Where's the project at? I see you say that you're getting the adapters to match the tranny to b/w transfer case. I would assume you're talking about the stock one, which I hear is weak. Is there a reason you're not going with something that has the strenght of a dana 300 or NP 205 or something like that? Or is it because you don't want to change the mounts or drive shafts? Just lookin for an update!
Thanks,
Pete

Good question Pete.

It's all about the Money. I didn't/couldn't afford to swap T-fer cases at this time. When it blows I'll put something stronger in there. Also, as you stated it let me avoid the driveshaft issues too.

Still waiting on my crate motor to arrive. Should be here this week ( or last week or the week before ). They say patentance is a virtue, but whoever said that did not see the loaner vehicle I have to drive. I'm ready to get my truck back.

Haha! Very understandable.....I hope everything else is goin good!
Pete

OK, Another small step. I ordered the Detroit Locker for the rearend. Yea!

Also, Got the Stud Girdle Kit for the rearend too. It's a kit from SVO. You replace the main caps with studs. Really adds to the strength of the rear end. The housing is a T/A girdle housing and it also adds some strength. $189 for the kit and housing cover. Mustang guys are running tons of HP through the 8.8 rear with gear ratios of 5.13 for thier 1/8 & 1/4 mile cars. Lots of driveline shock in those cars too. We'll see how well it holds up.

Order the ceramic coated shorty headers today as well! $170 or so for that.

And special thanks to Rick for the rear disc brake set-up that I purchased from him.

Next Item will be the radiator....

Motor should ship this week according to the builder.

Wow! Can't wait to see (and hear!) the finished product in action! Keep the updates coming!

Hey, where did you find ceramic coated shorties for only $170?? All the ones that I have seen were around $400 for V8 swap headers. Can't wait till you get it done and get the writeup up (?) so I can see what I might get myself into... hopefully... sounds like your going to have one hell of a truck.

Now all you need is a solid axle to become the Explorer god... nah, Rick's big-orange pumpkin would still win, just for looks. ;-)

Headers I order from a local chop here in Dallas. Ceramic coated shorties $169 or so depending on which brand you wanted. Mine are MAC ( I think ) not supposed to change colors once they heat up either.

David - 972 864-1667 Blue Oval Racing

Rick will always be God, I just hope to become a Prophet.

( Of course rumor has it that he's actually worried about scratching his paint now ;) )

This project is really exciting. I can't wait to fire it up!

Larry, e-mail me with a time when we can hook-up and get the V6 & stuff to you.

Thanks

That's not a rumor Rob, it's a fact :D Trouble is I already have more scratches and nicks than I care to count. Oh well...That's the way it goes :D

Rick,
That is the nice thing about clear coats, they are easy to blend in once you get a scratch or two or three. lol

Hey
GoFast!
I'm new to this board but I've been following your progress. I'm starting to get a more serious about "THE SWAP" I've been reading everythig I can get my eyes on. Finally found some money to do the deed. I found another site that with some petty usefull info http://www.rangerpowersports.com/index2.shtml
You may already know of it. My explorer has almost 150k miles with very little trouble. 5sp trans is growlin big time. 4.0 pulls my boat ok but from what I've read I'll have plenty of power and better millage. I've located a 5.0l w/AOD computer cables etc. I have a local salvage yard with a good reputaion and the whole package is only $1200.00. No major mods to the engine at this point Gol is just to get it in and running. I've been bouncing back and forth from advanced adapters kit and the one offered from James Duff. Then I found http://www.kaufmannproducts.com/
They tell me that the motor mounts they use are built by them and not a stock mount converted. They also claim that because of this the motor is sitting lower and futher back that the mounts from advanced adapters. May be you can enlighten me more while I'm still in the planning and buying stages. Liked what i heard about the shorty headers you bought for less than $200.00. All the adapter places want big bucks for the ones they sell. I've seen the headers from advanced up close and I don't see $350.00
Keep the updates coming. Any pictures?

Good deal on the motor and trans. That's the route I was heading here in Dallas. However, I had no relationships with any of the salvage yards here. Didn't know who to trust. They were wanting $2500 for high milage motors and questionable tranny's. I spent $1600 for a rebuilt motor ( Make sure you get the accesorie brackets ), The tranny needs some thought. Advance Adapters has the "Kit" for the AOD. I used the 9" adapter and it should keep the tranny mount in the stock location. Which meens the transfer case is in the same location and the driveshafts should work fine the way they are.

Keep in mind the Advance Adapter requires a different output shaft and a 9" case extension. The output shaft kit has the correct number of splines to connect to your existing Transfer case. These means you will need to rebuild the AOD to use this kit. I got a complete heavy duty rebuild AOD from http://www.phoenixtrans.com/ for $1250 and they used the Advance Adapter kit ( $550 ) I had dropped shipped to them to do the rebuild. I did not have a core either.

The motor Mounts become real important because it affects where the tranny and T/Case will sit. I'm going to use either V8 mounts from a late model explore or custom fab them so that the Tranny sits in the factory location. AA,Duff & Kaufman all mount the motor in different spots.

Another thing, With my 3" body lift I can use a factory mustang radiator with a top fill set-up and not the custom stuff they have. My Radiator will be top of the line 4 core Aluminum for around $300 or so.

The important thing is top shop around a lot, be very patient and hopefully get everything togather ahead of time instead of learning as you go like I'm doing.

Just think, Someday will have a 5.0 Forum or Explorer Conversion Forum to help plan things like this.

Oh Yaa, I'll work on pictures this weekend to start showing progress when we actually start putting the motor in the truck.

Gofast, check this out! Oknut from this board has a 302 in his Explorer with a 4sp tranny out of a Ford truck with a beefy t-case from a Ford truck too. Oh yea, he runs 44's!!!

Check out his setup here: http://www.tenforward.com/homepage/spaceport/4x4/Joe/Joe.htm

I just read his post under the tire and wheel forum about 44" Boggers.

What a Monster! I was thinking I was gonna be a big dog with 38's someday....

I wish he had put more details of the actaul motor swap in there. I would also like to have a shop like he had in some of those pictures.

That Explorer is sweet! I just wonder what would happen if he hit a bump hard enough to smack one of his boggers into the body! He needs to become friends with the sawzall! LOL

He's only just begun. The body will be modified for clearance and flares are going to be added to cover the tires that stick out 15" on each side!!!

He plans on coming to Moab with us even though I tried to convince him that Truckhaven would be better suited to his rig.

Rick,
I agree with you.
With having the spring in the front end I think it will ride ruff. If he can get it done by Moab it will be fun to see it.
When we built our van we found out it was built for show, not four wheeling. I am still glad I did it though. How many people have a 4x4 Aerostar?

Hey so Oknut finally got that thing running? Cool!

I actually bought my superlift kit from Oknut since he lives about 1 hour away from me, Originally he was only going to run 38s, I didn't know he had finally decided on 44s.

We've been talking about mudding together for a while now(though his truck is slightly more capable than mine). I'll E-mail him and see about getting together, if I do I'll snap some more detailed digital pictures of his setup, since he is the one that inspired me to do a leaf spring solid axle swap in the first place.

Oh, and on a side note, Oknut actually made money from his swap because he bought a donor vehicle for $500, kept the axles and sold it off piece by piece. I wouldn't be surprised if that was what paid for part of his 44s

Mat

Hey there,

I see that you guys are talking about me.. LOL

haven't heard from you in a while, Matt. What have you done to your explorer lately, are you still gonna do the straight axle swap ?

Gofast, you said you wanted some more detail, just ask and I will tell.

take care guys

I hope you make it to MOAB.

When you put the 302 into the explorer, did you fab the motor mounts? or did you use some V8 mounts from a late model explorer?

Did you have any problems with clearnace on the exhaust manifolds? HEaders or stock manifolds?

What computer did you end up running and how well did it interface with the stock wiring harness for the gauges etc.

Did you change the plug-in for the computer or did it match up OK?

What radiator did you go with? I'm planning on using the electric fans from a late model mustang and probable a Griffin Radiator.

Any gotcha's that I should be looking out for?

My motor will ship today, so I hope to start installing it by Monday.


Other notes...

Got the "SVO" diffy cover with the stud girdle. I thought it replaced the existing bolts with studs, but that is not the case. It actually has studs that press against the carrier bearing caps and provide added support there. This is a very heavy duty cover, but I will miss the smiley face on my old cover.

Pick-up the Detroit today, and I recieved the MAC ceramic coated headers.

Whew. I miss my truck.

Rob, I just bought the stud kit from the company who makes the SVO cover for Ford. Remember my TA cover? That's the same thing with a different name. In fact, as of yesterday I have a SVO cover, because I had some problems with my old cover. TA Performance is located in Scottsdale so I drove by and picked up a new cover and a stud kit.

Ford/Dana Stud Kit TA 1816 4 stud kit, replaces stock bolts on carrier bearing caps 19.95* whn purchased with cover, 24.95 when purchased seperately. (480) 922-6807

Tell them I sent you, I would love for those guys to advertise here :D

For those who are interested:

The TA Rear End Girdle is based on the Geise Girdle developed in the early 1970's. TA
Performance bought the remainder of the patent, and began to produce an improved and upgraded
version of the Girdle. After refusing to produce a less expensive, thus lower quality cover for large
parts wholesalers, TA Performance soon found that copies of their cover were being produced and
sold. Though the other covers look very similar to the TA cover, many important qualities are
different. An independent dealer that was considering which product to promote, purchased one of
each cover and performed his own tests. He placed each cover, one at a time in a hand operated
press, and pumped the jack, the "copy" cover began to flex while he was still able to pump. The TA
cover never showed any signs of flexing, even after it was impossible to pump the handle any further
and with the 200+ pound man hanging off of the pump handle. Also the fit and finish, and quality of
hardware was noted, so the TA cover sold itself. Recently TA Performance did a quick check of this,
by using an air powered press, at 10,000 PSI of pressure there was no signs of flexing. The TA cover
is also the only cover to be tested and approved by a leading auto manufacturer. Ford Motor
Company spent 2 years evaluating the TA cover and approved it for their SVO line. Yes, the SVO
cover is made by TA Performance, for Ford. TA Performance produces their own covers at their
Scottsdale, Arizona facility, utilizing CNC milling machines. The TA cover also uses specially made
hardware that meets the highest specifications, no "off-the-shelf" hardware is used, everything from the
washers to the mounting bolts to the load bolts, were designed and manufactured with the ultimate in
strength and durability factored in, for a cover that will perform every time the throttle is floored, and
everytime that the wheels bite hard or break free, you will be glad that the Ultimate bolt on support
for your rear end is silently at work. Even the gaskets are specially made, to ensure the highest sealing
capabilities and to reduce dissimilar (galvanic) metal corrosion. TA Performance produces and sells
thousands of covers annually, through a network of dealers and directly to the public, so ask your
dealer who manufactures their cover, and if they don't reply TA Performance, then you might be
buying a false sense of security. Our covers are used in applications as varied as the Motorsports
Industry itself... From Street Cars to 8 second drag cars, from weekend off road trucks to 700+ HP
Baja Trucks.

* The TA Girdles are made of 356 aircraft grade aluminum, heat treated to T6 specifications, each
cover is then stress relieved.

* The covers are machined using a 3 step CNC process, which ensures accuracy and quality.

* Each cover is hand deburred and inspected for the utmost in fit and finish. Then each cover is hand
assembled and packaged.

* All Girdles incorporate a Fill Port and a Drain Port for ease of servicing.

* All Girdles incorporate 2 load bolts with swivel "feet" for supporting the bearing caps.

* All Girdles increase fluid capacity approx. 1/2 quart.

* All Girdles show a decrease in operating temperature

* Average weight, 7 lbs

* Improves Undercarriage Appearance

I just ordered the Stud Kit ( Now I can quit working out )

I mentioned this website when I ordered it.

The cover goes for $159.00 from them plus shipping. No Tax outside AZ. I paid $189 plus Tax waitied 4 days to pick it up. This is a better deal. Not to mention the assurance of a stronger rear end.

I would recomend the Stud Kit as well if you are doing a gear swap or anythin where you remove the carrier.

Just a FYI for everyone. You don't need to remove the carrier or the caps to install the studs. The studs only need 10ft lbs of torque to be installed in the case then the nuts get torqued to 90lbs.

I took the stud threaded two nuts on the end leaving as much thread below them exposed as possible. I then torqued the studs down to 10lbs. Next, I used an open end wrench to hold the bottom nut while loosening the top one. This keeps the torque on the stud and lets you remove the nuts. Do this to all the studs then install the washers over the caps, install the nuts and torque to 90lbs.

Lets see if I am getting this. I was wondering if you could take a picture and post it here. Thanks for your help.

Is the girdle the cover? Studs? Carrier bearing caps?
What is all this actually...I've yet to tinker with my rear end.....I'd be nice to understand all this, cause this spring I wanna do gears and lockers...and want all the strenght and best possible parts available!
Pete

I hope I make it to the moab also..

I don't have much time, but i'm gonna try to answer a few of your questions.

My motor mounts, 4 core radiator and headers are all from Dames Duff, they make a kit for the v8 conversion. The only thing that I had a hard time with was the header. didn't have much room. I had to put one side on before mounting the engine. A oil filter relocator also comes with the kit.

I'm not running a computer, the motor that i'm using is a 1979 302. no need for a motor. I hate them sencors anyway. Running an old motor just means more power and cheaper to get a lot for power. By this time next year I should have over 500 hp.

I'm not done with the radiator asembly yet. i'm gonna try to run a regular fan, but if that doesn't work, I know that James Duff sells one.

My only problem is gonna be the power steering, i'm gonna use the stock one till it gives up on me. And that probly won't be long.

If there's more you wanna know, feel free to ask.

When you lower your motor into the truck, turn it sideways till your about half way in then start turning it back. That's a lot easier then tilting it upside down. Make your motor mount holes bigger then they should be, then when the motor is in place make a washer that will cover the hole and weld it in all corners. That will just save you some time.

Good luck on the install. I'm still working on mine and running into a lot of little problems.

Take care.


P.S. you also wanna make sure you get the right oil pan, it's got a dip in the middle. You can buy one from James Duff or you could do like I did and get one of a early ford truck. the one that I got was nearly in perfect condition and cost me next to nothing. If you get one of an early truck. Then make sure to plug up the dip stick hole. Because I think that your new motors dipstick goes through the timing cover, unless you want two dipsticks.

Are you planning on boring your motor, are you gonna shave it for more compression ? are you gonna use aftermarket pistons ? what about a cam and lifters ? roller rockers ? aluminum heads, port and polish ?



[Edited by Oknut on 12-05-2000 at 04:32 PM]

http://www.explorer4x4.com/svocover.jpg

This is the SVO cover, the T/A cover is less expensive, but exactly the same except for the name. The extra bolts with locking nuts are there to preload the bearing caps, the cover itself acts as the girdle.

The stud kit replaces the bolts that hold the bearing caps in place. The are located under the cover.

Hope that helped.

Rick,
Since I am adding the new gears and locker Monday or Tuesday is this something you would recommend me to add to mine?
Even though it will be mainly a daily driver?

Originally posted by Oknut
I hope I make it to the moab also..

P.S. you also wanna make sure you get the right oil pan, it's got a dip in the middle. You can buy one from James Duff or you could do like I did and get one of a early ford truck. the one that I got was nearly in perfect condition and cost me next to nothing. If you get one of an early truck. Then make sure to plug up the dip stick hole. Because I think that your new motors dipstick goes through the timing cover, unless you want two dipsticks.

Are you planning on boring your motor, are you gonna shave it for more compression ? are you gonna use aftermarket pistons ? what about a cam and lifters ? roller rockers ? aluminum heads, port and polish ?


[Edited by Oknut on 12-05-2000 at 04:32 PM]

I got the " Double Hump Pan" I ordered a crate motor with the oil pan with a dip in the middle, High flow water pump and all the accessorie brackets. My motor was supposed to be here a few weeks ago, but he had trouble find the brackets I wanted. I'l verify it shipped in the A.M.

I ordered it .30 over so I have a 306 now. I also wanted an RV cam to make more torque and had him use ARP rod bolts. The heads are stockers "EX Heads" I think. Good torque, don't really flow to good over 5K RPM.

I'm sure the " Good Stuff " will happen later to this motor. I have a very solid lower end for now.

I'm still looking at fabing my motor mounts. I can't help but wonder why late model V8 mounts wont work if there off an explorer.

Still up to my neck getting this project togather. It may come home with me soon if I don't start seeing some progress from my " Shop Guy ". He mentioned Jan 15 dates today and I blew a gasket.

Well Rick, thanks! I'll probably end up getting the SVO just cause it's svo.....Bearing caps? Those are? And what are they two stud/nut things on the outside of SVO?
Thanks,
Pete

Pete, I suggest you look at a shop manual to see what the bearing caps are. All I can say is that they are the caps that hold the bearings in place. Look at a diagram of a rear end.

"The extra bolts with locking nuts are
there to preload the bearing caps, the cover itself acts as the girdle."

Perry, I reccomend the cover for any 8.8" that's used offroad. The guys at ARB believe that's what's kept my Airlocker together when others broke under the same conditions.

[Edited by Rick on 12-05-2000 at 08:01 PM]

Rick,
That's exactly why I bought one, because you didn't have any problems with your setup. I don't want any problems with mine.

I started a new thread on the conversion. I'm hoping to elimnate any bad Karma that may linger on the old thread.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=22240

Due to some problems looming on the horizon I'm pulling my vehicle out of the shop and will do the install myself. Check-in on the other thread to see prgress when it happens.

I plan to post a summary when this gets finished.

Thanks everyone for there input here.

Gofast,

Sounds like you got a nice project going, how far did you have to reach into your pocket book ?

Alas..If I were only a rich man ( Or adopted by one )

I havn't added up all the damage yet, but I'm easy into the 5K range. I'm sure i could have saved some money on this but the lure of lockers and gears didn't help.

I know I have $3000 in the motor and tranny including the adapters, but not the motor mounts.

That's about the same amount that I have into my engine so far. I have plans to spend a lot more money. My next step is a dana 60 front end, lockers, gears, blower, and nos and arma coating the whole truck. then I will call it good.

Bump.....


There is a lot of good info for links in here.

Where is the project at Rob?

Rob, would stock headers off a 87 stang fit?
I'm told they're equal to Shortie headers

RFR The headers depend on how far they stick out from the head. If they tuck in tight against the block they should do fine. The problem with my stock manifolds and it was worse with the MAC's was the flange was sitting right on the frame rail. Some motor mounts may place the motor higher so you have more room. Let's see how Dogman's headers turn out.

Project update!

The motor and driveline is in. The exhaust system is installed.

My next task is;

1) Mounting the radiator
2) Mounting the intake system. Routing the tube and Mass air stuff.
3) Mounting the water pump
4) Mounting the Amsoil remote dual filter, need to get 90 degree fittings for the oil lines
5) Relocating the battery for clearance on the airfilter.
6) Install dipsticks on tranny and block
7) Get it started! I want an ASCE certified mechanic to bring it online and then dyno tune the computer.

I'm considering farming this all out though. I'm having real issues with time and I want this done by the end of March at the latest. I'm open to any suggestions if you know shops within an 8 hour drive of Dallas!

GoFast,

There are two places I can think of here in Austin that might be able to help you out. I have good experience with both of them. One is Scott Hamett @ Austin Mobile Mechanics. 512-477-9414. He's the guy who installed my blower and is great. He might give you some pennies off 'cause I referred you. Second is Autotek, www.autotekinc.com . That's where I got Splat dynoed and where I was initially going to get the blower installed. It turns out I met Scott right before I was going to start the project. Autotek specializes in hi-po vehicles and can dyno test to your heart's content. It's the best dyno in Austin.

If you want to get it all done at one place, do Autotek. You can probably drive in, drop the truck off, and pick it up in a week. If you take it to Scott you'd then have to take it to Autotek anyway if you want it dyno-tuned. Hehehe, if you get it dynoed at Autotek, that'll be their second ever Explorer dynoed! :) Hmmm, maybe they could throw Splat on the dyno again for cheap when you're getting tuned.....referrals are worth a lot to them.

Good luck!

Splat being bad again???
BAD SPLAT,
BAD SPLAT, BAD SPLAT!!

Make sure whichever one you go to have a tall garage door. Remember Splat is still close to the ground...

Gofast--With the V-8 in, how much lower does you front end sit, if any...
Thanks
Pete

On the contrary, Perry:
Splat's being good, very good. Good to the tune of 197.4 ponies at the wheels.

Rob,
The dyno bay at Autotek is pretty large. I think you'll fit. Here are some pics:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1159657&a=11607343

Good luck!

Alec, Thanks for the info. I'll give them a call on Monday. Dogman is checking with his mechanic too.

RFR.. The truck sits at the same level so far. I still need to add another 100lbs of accessories and then the hood too. I don't really expect it to drop any though. I only added 100 lbs with the 302 and my springs are the heavier rated ones form Superlift.

of course it's only temporary till I get the solid axel front end. ;)

Gofast-
Thanks....I'll be askin alot of questions in the next two months.....It looks like 2 weeks I'm pickin up my motor.....I got a 90 HO 5.0 w/ 101k on it....Gonna rebuild it etc...So, I'm joinin the V-8 crowd....how much hp and torque you expecting to get?
Thanks
Pete


Pete, I'm expecting 300HP at the crank...

I'm closing this thread. Please post any input in the 302 part II thread.

I'll merge this thread at a later date with the part II thread.
Thanks Rob