Okay, first off, sorry for the annoying caps title. But it really does get attention. I will have a ton of questions, so please hang with me, I have been trying for weeks to try and get straight answers out of other people at other forums with no help. First, I would like to lay out the system I would like to put in. I am looking for a SPL(loud?) system, and this is what I have come up with. The stock speakers are fine for me, and I will unhook the stock sub.

Head Unit:JVC KW-XG500
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18419

Subs: Kicker 15"
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16276

Amp: Lanzar Vibe286
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16493

Now I haven't been able to find out if this system works. The max power of the subs is 1000w RMS. The amp says it will do 1000w RMS at 4ohm, or 1650w RMS at 2ohm. Another forum said that the amp pushes out 900w RMS max, which I can't find believable, I don't think they would lie that much. So will 1000 at 4 ohms be okay? Or can I bump it up to use 2ohms? I can get either 2 ohm or 4 ohm subs, just depends on what I get told.

Next, I heard someone else say that the explorer is stock amplified and I would need to rewire the car. What does that mean? Does that mean the stock HU amplifies the 4 speakers? I am not sure what he meant. I thought putting in the new HU would be enough. Next question, how would I wire stock speakers to new HU? Also, can I remove the stock sub and amp?

Next: What kind of wiring will be necessary and can my stock alternator handle the power that will be required?

Thanks for help in advance, I'm sure I will have more questions.

First, save $$ - http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Group/ProductMenu.aspx?g=300&search=jvc+double+din&tp=5684

I have the second one on the list, it has six preouts - and it is very nice!

Lanzar = crappy flea market brand, overrated, please don't waste your money.

The only worthwhile amps from Lanzar are the Opti series.

That amp will put out about 500-600 CLEAN watts...not kidding. Do you really expect to get 4000 REAL watts for under 200 dollars...haha I doubt it.

Save up and get something that has real power ratings

The sound from a speaker is 90% enclosure. I have single 12 in a transmission line enclosure that I built with 200-300 watts. Most people think I have two 12's or two 15s with 1000 watts.

First, save $$ - http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Group/ProductMenu.aspx?g=300&search=jvc+double+din&tp=5684

I have the second one on the list, it has six preouts - and it is very nice!

Eh, I'm a little confused. The one you suggested is $250. Since when is $190>$250? I'm actually going to get it for $150 off of amazon. Or does this have to do with the six preouts? I read and it says that it only has 2, unless I am missing something.

Lanzar = crappy flea market brand, overrated, please don't waste your money.

The only worthwhile amps from Lanzar are the Opti series.

That amp will put out about 500-600 CLEAN watts...not kidding. Do you really expect to get 4000 REAL watts for under 200 dollars...haha I doubt it.

Save up and get something that has real power ratings

Okay, can you suggest something that will power the subs? Or the better question to ask is: will the stock electrical system be able to handle those subs or will I have to select a less powerful set?

Okay, can you suggest something that will power the subs? Or the better question to ask is: will the stock electrical system be able to handle those subs or will I have to select a less powerful set?

Well lets start off with...how much money do you want to invest??


My 98' exploder with the factory electrical and only one battery up front can handle a true 1500 rms amp...I'd guess a current draw between 130-160 amps.

BUT...that is because I have upgraded every ground wire possible on my explorer...A lot more than the normal "big three".

Here is a little vid with a single 12 and 150 watts.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p67/aznboi3644/th_MOV02263.jpg (http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p67/aznboi3644/?action=view&current=MOV02263.flv)

Eh, I'm a little confused. The one you suggested is $250. Since when is $190>$250? I'm actually going to get it for $150 off of amazon. Or does this have to do with the six preouts? I read and it says that it only has 2, unless I am missing something.

The preouts on mine are 2 front 2 center 2 rear... The saving is in the deal. Are your harnesses included (both)? And the kit?

(I didn't suggest the 2nd one, I was just pointing out mine)

The preouts on mine are 2 front 2 center 2 rear... The saving is in the deal. Are your harnesses included (both)? And the kit?

(I didn't suggest the 2nd one, I was just pointing out mine)

No but very good point. I will definitely be going with crutchfield instead.

I am looking to spend around $1000. What I had above was just my un-knowledge at work(AKA: no knowledge). What do you think I can get for $1000? I am looking for SPL, no quality. Hope I used the term right.

Also crutchfield sends the harness and tools you need to install the Deck so you don't have to go out and buy everything

Those fellas up there know... ^^ what they say is as good as gold!

Did a little research and I really like the XG-700, so I think I will be getting it.

So here is my list so far:

Head Unit: JVC KW-Xg700
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=300&i=105KWGX700&c=3&tp=5684&tab=review


That leaves $750 for amp and subs. I will be getting speakers later. What subs can I get that won't stress the electrical system but still have some good thump. I trust you guys to build a good system, you know a hell of a lot more than I do.

If you like Lanzar, the Opti line is good stuff. Head and shoulders above their other offerings. I really like the minis.
http://www.lanzar.com/citempage.asp?MODEL=RBOPTI2X300D
there's other models. These are full range class-D amps, so they can be used for anything with minimal power consumption.

You choose what sub(s) you want, and we'll help you choose a proper amplifier(s) to run them.

Oh, bang for the buck on subwoofers goes to either the Dayton RS's or the Mach5 MAW's.

Also crutchfield sends the harness and tools you need to install the Deck so you don't have to go out and buy everything

Their customer service is the best in the business, too. I buy all my speakers wherever I get the best pricing, but my head units always come from Crutchfield. It's the only thing I've ever had fail on me.

If you like Lanzar, the Opti line is good stuff. Head and shoulders above their other offerings. I really like the minis.
http://www.lanzar.com/citempage.asp?MODEL=RBOPTI2X300D
there's other models. These are full range class-D amps, so they can be used for anything with minimal power consumption.

You choose what sub(s) you want, and we'll help you choose a proper amplifier(s) to run them.

Oh, bang for the buck on subwoofers goes to either the Dayton RS's or the Mach5 MAW's.


Tried to look for Dayton and Mach5, couldn't find much.

My friend swears by Kicker, and he has a decent setup that sounds nice.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14814

Saw these, not too powerful but judging from reviews will still deliver in terms of good bass. What would I need to power two of these, or do you recommend other subs.

And yes I am open to anything. You suggest the sub and the amp if you want, I'm fine with that.

The Opti Mono Class D amps are the only amps I'd buy from them...that amp you linked won't put out more than 300 watts

The Opti Mono Class D amps are the only amps I'd buy from them...that amp you linked won't put out more than 300 watts

Yea, did some more research and that seems to be the case. So if I wanted to power two of these:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14814

What amplifiers for under $400 am I looking at? I need to get wiring, so remember that in pricing.

BTW, I'm not stuck on Lanzar, that was just one I found and I thought it was good for cheap price. I want something quality that will last a long time.

400 dollars for a sub amp and wiring only??

I used to run one 15 and 500 watts...it was louder than a lot of people around my area because of the box

So you are willing to give up a lot of space in the back??

No, I have $750 for sub, amp, and wiring. 400 was if I got those Kickers I listed above. I can give up room no problem. Only problem is is that I have a third row seat and I will have to give it up and proves difficult to mount somewhere. But that is okay, dont need third row.

I'm just curious... What type of sound system are you building? Or, what is the basic purpose of your sound system? This might help save a couple $$ Thanks!

He's going for straight-up thump... SPL refers to Sound Pressure Level (I think?) and describes the loudness of the sound as opposed to sound quality. It normally takes substantially more money to get the system really loud and to have great quality...

750 for sub amp AND wiring...well can you build your own enclosure??

750 for sub amp AND wiring...well can you build your own enclosure??

Yes, I am looking for SPL. I can build my own sealed box. Ported is another thing though. If I had plans I could build ported, but sealed is what I can do just from my own plans.

But yes, $750 for sub, amp, and wiring. I have tons of wood so don't need cost for that. I have extra truck spray in liner that I will be putting on the box. Gives a good look.

Also, is it possible to remove the third row eat in an explorer? That would give me lots more room.

Here is what I came up with. Even though I came up with this I still want you guys to tell me if you know of a better setup.

Two 15" Kickers at 500 RMS
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14814

And 1 Hifonics capable of 2x500RMS
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16349

Total of $583.

How is that looking? Could I go a little more powerful? I have read good things about Hifonics.

Not that I know, but when you are going for that type of sound, don't you typically want to spend a little more on the h/u? Like top of the line brands?? What are the two big names, Blausomething and Alpsomething?

You'd never truly power that Hifonics- it draws a LOT of current. Look for a class-D model in your price range. Actually, have you considered something like eD's 19Ov2 and a 9.1? Call them to see what kind of package deal they'll set up. Or, a pair of 16Ov2's would work very well. The 9.1 can do over 1700 if your voltage is high and at low impedence. It's typically very underrated.

You'd never truly power that Hifonics- it draws a LOT of current. Look for a class-D model in your price range. Actually, have you considered something like eD's 19Ov2 and a 9.1? Call them to see what kind of package deal they'll set up. Or, a pair of 16Ov2's would work very well. The 9.1 can do over 1700 if your voltage is high and at low impedence. It's typically very underrated.

I have a Nine.1 and a 19Ov.2

I even have some plans for a ported 19Ov.2.

The Nine.1 is one tough amp and puts out plenty of power. The 19Ov.2 is a beast. I'm working on a Transmission line enclosure for mine right now.

I'd recommend the 19Ov.2 and Nine.1

Nine.1 + 19Ov.2 = Total: $463.25

I have a Nine.1 and a 19Ov.2

I even have some plans for a ported 19Ov.2.

The Nine.1 is one tough amp and puts out plenty of power. The 19Ov.2 is a beast. I'm working on a Transmission line enclosure for mine right now.

I'd recommend the 19Ov.2 and Nine.1

Nine.1 + 19Ov.2 = Total: $463.25

I like the looks of it. This would only be one sub correct? And would it be running at 1 ohm no problem? No overheating issues? Where did you get those prices.

Donner: I thought for awesome sound quality you would want an awesome head unit. I am looking for loudness. I thought the JVC would be fine, but thats a noob talking.

I understand that for that purpose, there are many who would suggest more than JVC. These are people that really know sound systems... You'll hear some praise real quick for the h/u's up there ^^ If you really want to use your system for that purpose, you're better off with something like that...

I understand that for that purpose, there are many who would suggest more than JVC. These are people that really know sound systems... You'll hear some praise real quick for the h/u's up there ^^ If you really want to use your system for that purpose, you're better off with something like that...

Very true. Do you have any suggestions for a good head unit?

Also, did some research on ED, appears to em they have a bad rap in some parts, saying the company steals ideas and is poorly run. Others say what you get for the price is amazing. Should I still go with that setup?

You will get really good advice from a number of people... I only look for $$avings when possible. With Crutchfield, as long as they carry what you want, you will be pleased. For audio set ups, you're on the right track with these fellas... many members can tell you about h/u's, DMac, JoeDirt, and on can tell you about h/u's. You can do a search of Alpine(?) and Blaupunkt(?) and see the results -

not to be that guy, but i run a install bay in oregon. i really advise you in buying any car audio electronics online. i see them all the time and 99% of them are refurbered or non working. most of the time you dont get a warrienty with it, or they push you arround before you get it back.

They don't steal anything...There are only so many build houses and parts vendors but so many companies...they aren't what they were in the past.

eD is a good reputable company. Every company has there ups and downs.

I'll still support eD. My 19Ov.2 can take 1200 watts like its nothing and sound damn good while being loud as hell.

I'd still suggest going to eD route. A friend of mine recently got two 13Ov.2s and a Nine.1 and loves it.

That's not Crutchfield, Circuit City or Best Buy... You're talking about small name online dealers, no?

They don't steal anything...There are only so many build houses and parts vendors but so many companies...they aren't what they were in the past.

eD is a good reputable company. Every company has there ups and downs.

I'll still support eD. My 19Ov.2 can take 1200 watts like its nothing and sound damn good while being loud as hell.

I'd still suggest going to eD route. A friend of mine recently got two 13Ov.2s and a Nine.1 and loves it.

I think I am going to go with that. I talked to salesman who pointed out the package deal for $436. He also suggested 0g wiring. SO this brings up my next questions. I have no idea what kind of wiring I need. This is the one area I have absolutely no clue what to get.

Also, been looking at other receivers, saw this Blaupunkt, seems pretty decent. Wondering about the 3volt outputs though. Not sure what that even means. I heard 4 is needed. Any thoughts?

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=300&i=023STLMP56&c=3&tp=5684&tab=detailed_info

I happen to really like Elemental. Several of the employees have called me on their off time to discuss things, and the owner once called me when I had a bad driver. Not only did he want to replace the one, but he paid for shipping for the other 3 and replaced them, too. Most of teh bad reputation comes from an internet "clique" that felt wronged because they didn't receive free products in the past. It has snowballed from there. Ben DOES do things that may seem technically unprofessional in a normal business, but his company seems to be creating its own niche, and its being done differently, that's all.
Hell, they even made me a custom center channel speaker for my home theater about six months before they released the actual product.

1/0 power wire is like 1/2 price at eD right now, too. Get that QUICK. The Blaupunkt unit will be fine. Output voltage is really an insignificant spec that's more marketing than anything. It CAN be helpful, but if you set your amplifier gains correctly, it is a non-issue (my head unit only has 2v).

I have a Nine.1 and a 19Ov.2

I even have some plans for a ported 19Ov.2.

The Nine.1 is one tough amp and puts out plenty of power. The 19Ov.2 is a beast. I'm working on a Transmission line enclosure for mine right now.

I'd recommend the 19Ov.2 and Nine.1

Nine.1 + 19Ov.2 = Total: $463.25

And where do you plan to place this?

www.partsexpress.com carries the Dayton brand...

I happen to really like Elemental. Several of the employees have called me on their off time to discuss things, and the owner once called me when I had a bad driver. Not only did he want to replace the one, but he paid for shipping for the other 3 and replaced them, too. Most of teh bad reputation comes from an internet "clique" that felt wronged because they didn't receive free products in the past. It has snowballed from there. Ben DOES do things that may seem technically unprofessional in a normal business, but his company seems to be creating its own niche, and its being done differently, that's all.
Hell, they even made me a custom center channel speaker for my home theater about six months before they released the actual product.

1/0 power wire is like 1/2 price at eD right now, too. Get that QUICK. The Blaupunkt unit will be fine. Output voltage is really an insignificant spec that's more marketing than anything. It CAN be helpful, but if you set your amplifier gains correctly, it is a non-issue (my head unit only has 2v).

That is good to know. So what wiring and approximately how much will I be needing? Connectors of any kinds? Like I said I'm clueless. I know I need 0g from the battery to the amp. That's pretty much all I know. If I'm using stock speakers, what will I need to hook those up? I found this list on the internet, will I need all of that?

Amp install kit, including the following:
--power wire with ring terminals
--ground wire with ring terminals
--fuse and fuse holder (ANL or Maxi fuse holder is better than AGU, but less common)
--remote wire
--RCA cables
--speaker wire

Spade terminals for the speaker wire, if required to connect the speaker wire to the box or sub
Fork terminals for the connections at the amp, if required; these aren't always included in amp kits
A good quality line-out converter to adapt the factory speaker outputs to a line-level signal that can be connected to the amp with RCA cables
Mounting screws or bolts for securing the amplifier, plus materials to build an amp rack if required
Nut and bolt or self-tapping screw with star washer for making the ground connection

Depending on the vehicle, you may also need a battery clamp or replacement battery post to connect the power wire to the battery.

Your stock electrical system will handle a lot, surprisingly. I run a pretty crazy setup and I'm still using the original alternator.

And where do you plan to place this?

In the back of my explorer...looky

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p67/aznboi3644/19Ov2T-Line.png

I just ordered a radio from crutchfield:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-A2jO3tXcG1a/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=023STLMP56

Came with a free amp for speakers too, so I may be taking advantage of that also. Crutchfield is awesome, sending all the necessary harnesses and mounting kits. Hope it turns out good. Now back to looking for wiring...

nice...80 watts x 2 @ 2 ohms is perfect.

nice...80 watts x 2 @ 2 ohms is perfect.

Yea I was looking at that. Can I hook 4 speakers up to that for 40 a peice? Or would 2 at 80 be better?

not many speakers are 2 ohms.

you can hook up each side in parallel to a channel

This guy is selling a brand new 19Ov.2 for 140 dollars

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php?t=48610

not many speakers are 2 ohms.

you can hook up each side in parallel to a channel

This guy is selling a brand new 19Ov.2 for 140 dollars

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php?t=48610



That actually wouldn't save anything. The amp by itself is $350, which makes $490. The package deal with give me both even newer for $436. What are some good speakers? Ones I have been looking at are in the 50-90 RMS range, which would be underpowered if I had 4 of them.

I have Kenwood 6x8 coax's in all of my doors. Got then at best buy. They keep up pretty well with my transmission line. Crossed over at around 80-100Hz. Sound deadening really helps the speakers sound like they should. It surprises the heck outta a lot of people when I tell them my door speakers are from best buy. Also they are amped only getting about 20 watts each. Very efficient.

How would four of these sound hooked up to the Blaupunkt, which delivers 25w RMS? They can handle 40w RMS, which would be perfect since the amp can deliver that much to four. I may hook the amp up later if I feel it's necessary. The radio will be here tomorrow. Crutchfield shipped it about an hour after I bought it yesterday. Or should I go to Best Buy and pick up a set, because I have money off there.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17343


EDIT: Nevermind about BestBuy, they are terribly over price. Anyone know anything about these either? May be a little more high end.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15372

Also, does this kit include everything I would need to hook up amp and sub?

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=19129

please do NOT buy a Lanzar kit. Horrible stuff. This is flea market stuff. The wire is actually 4 gauge with a thick jacket. A real 0 gauge kit is going to cost more than that.

I would recommend you not run the speakers of the HU. HU power is horrible and is a BIG downgrade from an external amp.

The sound quality and dynamics with an externally amped system is superior to deck power.

(Hey guys, quick question. Where is the stock sub and/or amp on the 02? Thanks! And if the 02 has an amp, is it plugged in to the back of the oem h/u?

Figured that after other Lanzar stuff I was told about. Here is my next plan. I will hook up two of these speakers using the Blaupunkt amp I am getting with the amp kit listed after it(crutchfield for install kit):

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=711&i=142PA8&tp=6
35
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15372

I won't doubt quality from Crutchfield. Also, should I go ahead and spend the extra money to get this amp kit from Crutch also so I know I am getting good stuff? I noticed either has everything I need though. Or is there a way to run the small amp off of the same power as the large amp?

Also, am I pushing the Exploder's alternator to the limit here?

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=711&i=575CP1P&tp=635

I am really confusing myself here. I have no idea what I need to get this amp and sub hooked up, let alone the other amp for speakers. Just focusing on the eD amp and sub, would this kit right here be what I needed to install both of them? And is there a way to run the small amp off the same power cable?

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductReview.aspx?ProductID=15609

Just a little advice... On this project, take some time. You have the h/u coming, and the speakers you can install. The amps and cables will be a separate issue... you want them compatible, but you don't want to buy the wrong items either...

Also, you have a Circ City out there?

Just a little advice... On this project, take some time. You have the h/u coming, and the speakers you can install. The amps and cables will be a separate issue... you want them compatible, but you don't want to buy the wrong items either...

Also, you have a Circ City out there?

Yea, patience was never a virtue with me. I will try and slow down a bit. Yes I have a circuit city. Went there but they did not seem to have a lot. The best place around here is an Ultimate Electronics. I think I will just wire up my stock speakers for now. I will then get the amp and subs going later, then followed by little amp and better speakers.

Check this out... The installation guys will show you exactly what you need. Just palm somebody a $20.00 and they'll talk - actually, they do it for free as long as they're not busy. I go there often, and to a local shop... but they'll make sure you have the right equipment...

Check this out... The installation guys will show you exactly what you need. Just palm somebody a $20.00 and they'll talk - actually, they do it for free as long as they're not busy. I go there often, and to a local shop... but they'll make sure you have the right equipment...

That's actually quite a good idea. For some reason I just assumed guys here were smarter than the guys at the stores. For instance, any time I go to a Best Buy to look for computer related things, i end up talking to a salesman who for a fact knows less than I do. Yet I listen and silently laugh to myself.

I will go check that out tomorrow.

These guys are top notch here! But they got a lot to focus on too, you know how it goes. Believe me, these guys can do anything with audio beyond anything the stores can do... but if you need parts and an assembly plan, it wouldn't hurt to stop in the installation department - straight to installation (otherwise you'll leave the store with all kinds of things - salespeople are good! I'll put a link up here for you to check out...

Here you go... have you seen this one? (And how about that factory sub or amp? Where are they?)

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199896&highlight=audio+install

I would get at least a quality 4 gauge kit.

Here you go... have you seen this one? (And how about that factory sub or amp? Where are they?)

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199896&highlight=audio+install

When looking at the back of the car, they are both in the back right on the trunk area. There is a small opening where it can be heard from. I saw a picture around here of it.

I talked to a man from eD and he recommended 0g. That just may be making a sale though.

So how do you guys think this amp kit is? It's cheap.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15609

So how do you guys think this amp kit is? It's cheap.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15609

No that amp kit is crap...

here you go.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17214

or

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3935_Kicker+PKD1.html

or

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_10559_Rockford+Fosgate+RFK1.html

I saw those Kicker kits, but the dual word in there confused me, I thought it was two for everything. I think I will go after that middle kit. Is it possible to run the small amp off this somehow also?

The Kicker kit is GREAT wire, and if you check shipping charges, the Knukonceptz kits may be the same price for what is essentially the same kits in different colors. I have both Kicker and Knu for my install.

The Kicker kit is GREAT wire, and if you check shipping charges, the Knukonceptz kits may be the same price for what is essentially the same kits in different colors. I have both Kicker and Knu for my install.

How big are the power blocks that come with Kicker kit? I want to run 0 gauge to the power block, then as big as possible to the sub amp and about 8 guage to my blaupunkt speaker amp.

I believe the Kicker blocks have 2x1/0 inputs and 3 or 4 outputs (4/8 convertible). I'm not sure as I don't buy kits, I buy my wire in 100+ foot spools.

I believe the Kicker blocks have 2x1/0 inputs and 3 or 4 outputs (4/8 convertible). I'm not sure as I don't buy kits, I buy my wire in 100+ foot spools.

Would 4 gauge be sufficient to run for about 6 inches for the sub? My Blaupunkt booklet says 4 gauge works for a distance of 10 feet or less at 1000 watts. I think it would be easier to run one wire from the battery and have both amps in the back, rather than two wires from battery and speaker amp up from and sub amp in back.

Run one 0 gauge to the back to the distro block then 4 gauge to the amps

Run one 0 gauge to the back to the distro block then 4 gauge to the amps

Alright sweet, that I all I think I need to know. So here is what is getting ordered soon:

NINe.1 and 19Ov.2
Kicker PKD1
Comes to a total of about $515 which is a steal I must say.

Actually that's it for now. I will be setting the head unit up tomorrow after school. I want to see how the stock speakers sound before I spend the money on speakers and other things for the speaker amp. Will be ordering subs and amp tomorrow also. I have one more quick question. I know RCA's go from the head unit to the amp, but then what gauge will I need to go from the amp to the sub?

stock speakers sound like crap IMO.

you won't be able to hear them at all over the bass

stock speakers sound like crap IMO.

you won't be able to hear them at all over the bass

Yea I kinda figured that, so that's why I am planning for the other amp to run two infinitys in the front. I dont think it would be powerful enough to run 4. Dont think its necessary either.

BTW, is this all I need for the sub-out to the amp? I noticed all of them have two cables, when I only need one I believe.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/product_info.php?cPath=28_32&products_id=235

yes...any rca cable will work fine

You asked about the speaker wire, anything 16ag or larger will suffice. I think that amp has 8ag terminals. You don't need it, but you can if you wish.

I really don't feel like reading the whole thread but heres what i have and sounds amazing
0 gauge stinger wire
Pioneer Avic-n2
Soundstream PCA2000D
2 15" Kicker L7s
kinetics hc800

Thats only for the bass...i have another amp for the mids and highs

In the back of my explorer...looky

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p67/aznboi3644/19Ov2T-Line.png

Mmmmm....T-line. Me likey. What 12 are you using in there?

Got the head unit installed today, no problems. Will be ordering things soon. Hope all goes well. Will update with pictures soon.

Quick question: What kind of wire goes from the amp to the sub? 4g? If that be the case I will need to order some. The amp kit doesn't come with that I believe. Also, where does the remote sire hook up for the amp?

This is kit I am getting.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17214

Almost about to order, but I just want to ask a few last questions:

Will the stock alternator keep up with 1200 RMS power?

What kind of wire do I need to go from the amp to the sub, and what size does it need to be?
The eD rep just recommended 12-16 gauge from the amp to sub. Sound right to you guys?

Just a little worried about pulling the trigger on this. Don't want to waste money.

16-12 gauge is plenty for 1200 watts.

I'd recommend you upgrade your big three with 0 gauge and upgrade all grounds with 0 gauge, a new battery up front and a battery in the back and you should be perfectly fine.

I have a 98 explorer and my stock alt and single duralast gold up front keeps up with my Nine.1 fairly easily.

Mmmmm....T-line. Me likey. What 12 are you using in there?

Try an 18 inch subwoofer my man

16-12 gauge is plenty for 1200 watts.

I'd recommend you upgrade your big three with 0 gauge and upgrade all grounds with 0 gauge, a new battery up front and a battery in the back and you should be perfectly fine.

I have a 98 explorer and my stock alt and single duralast gold up front keeps up with my Nine.1 fairly easily.

I will do the big three and a new battery is needed soon anyways. What kind of battery do you recommend. I don't have much money left after buying all this stuff and I was hoping it would work without all the electrical upgrades.

The amp won't suck 1200watts all the time will it? If I keep the volume nice and low for a week or two while I get my funds back up, nothing should crap out on me right? Also, any good articles on how to break a sub in? Would like to do it right.

Another important question. Should the sub be facing the trunk or straight up? I presume point backwards.

There is no need to "break in" the sub. Just wire it up and slam away. Just make sure the gain is set correctly and not clipping the signal.

I have a durlast gold battery up front and it works fine. The voltage drops a little bit but the voltage jumps back up pretty fast. The battery was like 60-70 bucks from autozone

I will do the big three and a new battery is needed soon anyways. What kind of battery do you recommend. I don't have much money left after buying all this stuff and I was hoping it would work without all the electrical upgrades.

The amp won't suck 1200watts all the time will it? If I keep the volume nice and low for a week or two while I get my funds back up, nothing should crap out on me right? Also, any good articles on how to break a sub in? Would like to do it right.

Another important question. Should the sub be facing the trunk or straight up? I presume point backwards.

For best sound quality, face the rear. For the best SPLll, sub up, port rear seems to be the norm.

So I ordered from Online Car Stereo and eD on Monday night, and either has yet to even go past the processing stage. Is this the norm?

I was hoping for Crutchfield type service, which shipped about an hour or two after I made the order around 7 at night.

eD is very busy catching up with orders...they are a small company and have a lot of stuff to ship out.

Don't worry though. It shouldn't take long though don't worry.

I'll work on your sub up port back plan tonight...what were your max dimensions again??

eD is very busy catching up with orders...they are a small company and have a lot of stuff to ship out.

Don't worry though. It shouldn't take long though don't worry.

I'll work on your sub up port back plan tonight...what were your max dimensions again??


Alright cool. Was hoping it would be here by Monday though, have school off for Pres Day and hoping to have a good day for install.

Well, I have an 02 Explorer with a third row seat that I plan on taking out. So I have a lot of room. Just needs to fit inside the wheel wells. Do you need those dimensions?

yeah I need your width, depth, and height

yeah I need your width, depth, and height

Actually I have been thinking about it and I don't really have the time or skills to build a ported box, so I think I am going to go with a sealed box, the same that is on the eD website. It gives the dimensions on the site, 2.5cubic feet. Can't really go wrong with a sealed box, think it will be better for me. I may hit you up at a later date in the chance I want to step it up a bit.

Actually I have been thinking about it and I don't really have the time or skills to build a ported box, so I think I am going to go with a sealed box, the same that is on the eD website. It gives the dimensions on the site, 2.5cubic feet. Can't really go wrong with a sealed box, think it will be better for me. I may hit you up at a later date in the chance I want to step it up a bit.

2.5 cubic feet sealed is VERY SMALL for this sub.

I put mine in a 2.5 cu ft sealed box the first time I installed it. The low end is lacking a lot in this enclosure. I would rather suggest at least a 4 cubic feet sealed enclosure if you want some decent low end extension.

This sub is virtually impossible to bottom out. I put 1200 watts to it free air and it didn't even get close.

2.5 cubic feet sealed is VERY SMALL for this sub.

I put mine in a 2.5 cu ft sealed box the first time I installed it. The low end is lacking a lot in this enclosure. I would rather suggest at least a 4 cubic feet sealed enclosure if you want some decent low end extension.

This sub is virtually impossible to bottom out. I put 1200 watts to it free air and it didn't even get close.

Okay, I will go to at least 4 cubes. Have you measured how loud the 19 will go?

So I have no clipping worries or other destruction worries with a NINe.1 and a 19Ov.2? Sounds good.

Also, I have a question. The head unit has just one RCA pre-out for the sub, and the amp has one RCA input. I bought a Double RCA cable, is it okay to just use one side or should I get a proper cable or a 2 to 1 converter thingamabob.

What is a "double rca cable"???

Okay, I will go to at least 4 cubes. Have you measured how loud the 19 will go?

So I have no clipping worries or other destruction worries with a NINe.1 and a 19Ov.2? Sounds good.

Also, I have a question. The head unit has just one RCA pre-out for the sub, and the amp has one RCA input. I bought a Double RCA cable, is it okay to just use one side or should I get a proper cable or a 2 to 1 converter thingamabob.

That is fine, and just let the second cable dangle. Consider it already ran if you ever decide to do a center channel or something.

That is fine, and just let the second cable dangle. Consider it already ran if you ever decide to do a center channel or something.

Alright, I figured that. And yea I eventually plan to use my small amp to run two Infinity speakers, so that will work out well. Should I run them on the opposite side of the power cables then?

Yeah run the signal opposite side of power.

I haven't metered my 19Ov.2 yet. There is only one shop near me that has a meter and it hasn't been calibrated in years. The 19Ov.2 can get pretty loud though. Keep in mind this subwoofer is more of a sound quality sub that can get loud. I like it cuz it sounds good too. In 4 cu ft you should be happy with it.

eD stuff shipped today. Says it will be here the 16th, but I don't think they deliver on Saturdays. And Monday is a holiday so I am looking forward to Tuesday. Online Car Stereo still hasn't shipped the wiring kit. Might give them a call tomorrow if it still hasn't shipped.

eD stuff is definitely getting here Tuesday now. No hopes for tomorrow. Wiring kit still has yet to ship. Too late for a phone call so I sent an e-mail. Hopefully I get a response this weekend.

Don't worry...I've order from OnlineCarStereo before...package came in perfect condition. They are located in Cali and I got mine pretty quick.

I was re-reading your earlier post when you said you don't have the time or skills to build a ported box.

Building a ported box is just as easy as building a sealed box except there are more boards to glue and screw/clamp.

just a note on onlinecarstero.com - when I ordered from them it took almost 2 weeks to get my item. I probably won't order from them again.

On the flip side, I made an order from hifisoundconnection.com (around midnight one night). They shipped them the next day, I had them the day after (they are in Springfield MO, so 1 day via UPS to St Louis here).

Crutchfield is awesome for shipping, but still takes about 2-3 days to get to St Louis (sometimes being in the middle of the US sucks for shipping! Everyone is from CA or NY - or somewhere close to that).

As for the ported box, when Nam gives you the sheet for it its quite simple to put it together. I just did one yesterday (thanks Nam!!). We took our time doing it and made sure everything lined up correctly.

So the 12 gauge wire came today from eD. It is speaker wire, so it has two wires in it. Question: Is there a diagram on how I hook up the wire from amp to subs? I'm a little confused on how to do it. Do i strip it on both sides, and for + side screw both to the + for amp, and wire one to one side and one to other, and then for -, do the same? I'm talking about DVC and 1 ohm setup. Hopefully i got that through in plain english.

http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/1_2ohm_dvc_1ohm.gif

http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/1_2ohm_dvc_1ohm.gif

Yea I saw that. So from the + side of the amp I need to screw both wires in, and then split it far enough on the other side that one reaches each side?

Heres a question not related to my sound system but a friends. He has this amp:
http://www.alphacaraudio.co.uk/ViewProdDetails.asp?prod_code=178&Prod_name=Phoenix+Gold+R15.0.1+Class+&Search=Y

He has this sub:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2133_Kicker+04S12L74.html

How should he wire it? It is dual 4 ohm voice coils and handles 750 max RMS power. The sub puts out 750 at 4 ohm but it's not possible to do 4 ohm. 2 ohm is 1500 watt which is way overpowering the sub. Any suggestions?

Heres a question not related to my sound system but a friends. He has this amp:
http://www.alphacaraudio.co.uk/ViewProdDetails.asp?prod_code=178&Prod_name=Phoenix+Gold+R15.0.1+Class+&Search=Y

He has this sub:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2133_Kicker+04S12L74.html

How should he wire it? It is dual 4 ohm voice coils and handles 750 max RMS power. The sub puts out 750 at 4 ohm but it's not possible to do 4 ohm. 2 ohm is 1500 watt which is way overpowering the sub. Any suggestions?

The sub can handle that amp fine...wire the sub coils in parallel to the amp.

Just don't crank the gain and you will be fine.

Well, got my friends box built. Mounted amp on the box. Have some questions about my project though. Looking for a ground. Have a whole bunch of bolts from the rear seat we took out. Was thinking the best would be the one where the seat belt attached. Seemed to be the beefiest. Will use a grinder to scrape away paint. Is this a good spot? Or is there a more recommended one?

Here is a picture of my friends project. We were a little bad at carpeting, but it turned out better than we thought. My max pictures are up, will delete these later to put up pics of my setup.

I never use seat bolts...usually high resistance. Find a spot you can access from underneath the vehicle...sand away all paint....drill a hole and use a 3/8" bolt, washers, and locking nut for best ground.

Either that or drill a hole and ground to the actual frame.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p67/aznboi3644/Zelatio19Ov255cuft35Hz.png

So we wired up my friends sub and want to make sure it is hooked up correctly. We want parallel connection. We wired each of the + VC on the sub to the + on the amp, and the same for the negatives. Is this correct? Picture provided. Also, I got the eD stuff in the mail. The sub box had a gigantic hole in it but the sub is fine. Car stereo has still not shipped the wiring kit order so I think I may cancel and order from Sonic electronix or other place soon.

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/3091/picture039fi8.jpg

http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/4158/picture035ja9.jpg

yup thats right for the wiring...doesn't matter what + or - terminals you use.

I don't know why onlincarstereo is taking so long

yup thats right for the wiring...doesn't matter what + or - terminals you use.

I don't know why onlincarstereo is taking so long

Okay, I will caulk up the hole then tonight and fasten the sub down tomorrow and give it to my friend. We ran the RCA cable today and as soon as he gets the wiring kit we will do that. He ordered from OCS too. I called their customer support but was on hold for half an hour. I wish I could cancel an order online. Sonic Electronix matched the price and it says ti will ship next day.

Cancelled the Online Car stereo order. Was on backorder for 2-3 more weeks. Ordered it off of Sonic. Hopefully it will be here by the end of the day.

Here are some questions about this amp. Where should all these fancy little knobby things be set at. The eD book doesn't really say a whole lot about them. Any specific place I should set them for the ported box aznboi? Also, I will only use the A input for the sub? And finally. There is no bridging require for the speaker wires? I just hook the sub up to the first set of speaker ports on the left?

The settings really depend on the source unit. The bass boost should be set to zero or off...not needed.

Phase keep at 0* for now.

There is are no channels to bridge...just two sets of terminals for easier wiring of multiple drivers....the outputs are paralleled internally

I just want to thank everyone for helping me with this. Got the box started and willo be finishing tomorrow probably. Need to get carpet tomorrow also. I have another quest now.

Speakers.

First I want to see though if the NINe.1 causes my lights to dim, and if I can push the electrical system further. I have a blaupunkt that puts out 80x2 at 2 ohm. Any recommendations? I need something that I can hear over the 19Ov.2.

I just want to thank everyone for helping me with this. Got the box started and willo be finishing tomorrow probably. Need to get carpet tomorrow also. I have another quest now.

Speakers.

First I want to see though if the NINe.1 causes my lights to dim, and if I can push the electrical system further. I have a blaupunkt that puts out 80x2 at 2 ohm. Any recommendations? I need something that I can hear over the 19Ov.2.

i got a pretty good deal off ebay on a royal red 1.5 fared capacitor, it was like 30 shipped. the headlights dont dim for normal play, but when i crank the bass and let er' slap...theres still some dimming.... thats at about 900 watts though.. :D

i got a pretty good deal off ebay on a royal red 1.5 fared capacitor, it was like 30 shipped. the headlights dont dim for normal play, but when i crank the bass and let er' slap...theres still some dimming.... thats at about 900 watts though.. :D

Yea, thats from a 97 Mountaineer. Hopefully the alternator in mine is a little better. I will do the big three once I get a few more paychecks. If that doesn't do the job, I may get a capacitor or just order a new HO alternator.

Yea, thats from a 97 Mountaineer. Hopefully the alternator in mine is a little better. I will do the big three once I get a few more paychecks. If that doesn't do the job, I may get a capacitor or just order a new HO alternator.

thats very true it is older, but as cheap as a cap is... why pass it up... i would get am optima yellow top big three etc, but thats just not in a 17 year-olds budget right now ;) :D

thats very true it is older, but as cheap as a cap is... why pass it up... i would get am optima yellow top big three etc, but thats just not in a 17 year-olds budget right now ;) :D

Should've saved the money you spent on the cap and upgraded some grounds instead. I will repeat

Caps are absolutely worthless to any "normal" user. I think I will do an entire writeup as to the science behind this and submit for a sticky, so keep an eye out this weekend.

Should've saved the money you spent on the cap and upgraded some grounds instead. I will repeat

Caps are absolutely worthless to any "normal" user. I think I will do an entire writeup as to the science behind this and submit for a sticky, so keep an eye out this weekend.

Yea thats why I said may get a cap. I won't now. Can you include the places in order that should be upgraded concerning grounds? A list to say:

1: Alternator to Battery
2: Alternator Ground
3: Etc...

That would be awesome.

Cut out all the pieces for the box. It's gunna be nice. Had just enough wood out of one piece. Will be building tomorrow. Have lots of school work this week, it sucks. Sonic order hasn't shipped yet. Hopefully tomorrow.

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/5039/picture083bd1.jpg

Oh yea, aznboi, you can see those nice instruction you made out printed out...There was one little error but I caught it and corrected it. Other than that they rock.

Should've saved the money you spent on the cap and upgraded some grounds instead. I will repeat

Caps are absolutely worthless to any "normal" user. I think I will do an entire writeup as to the science behind this and submit for a sticky, so keep an eye out this weekend.

yea i would love to have known that back when... but how much would all that cost.. i mean 30 bucks for a 1.5 fared at the time was pretty reasonable.. do you have prices for the big three and other cables?

Cut out all the pieces for the box. It's gunna be nice. Had just enough wood out of one piece. Will be building tomorrow. Have lots of school work this week, it sucks. Sonic order hasn't shipped yet. Hopefully tomorrow.

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/5039/picture083bd1.jpg

This type of work is not good for building enclosures...I would have atleasted used particle board...If I had known you were going to use chip board/osb I would have incorporated more bracing

yea i would love to have known that back when... but how much would all that cost.. i mean 30 bucks for a 1.5 fared at the time was pretty reasonable.. do you have prices for the big three and other cables?

Capacitors are useless unless you have an upgraded alternator and batteries or if you have a very small system.

Prices for the big three??

All you need is some wire and ring terminals

This type of work is not good for building enclosures...I would have atleasted used particle board...If I had known you were going to use chip board/osb I would have incorporated more bracing

Oh really...Think you can keep the same dimensions and add bracing? By the way i have a large 1.5 inch dowel rod, will that work?

huh.. well that may be something i will have to do... i thought you had to go out, order some wires that are like 30 bucks a pop....guess not :p:

Oh really...Think you can keep the same dimensions and add bracing? By the way i have a large 1.5 inch dowel rod, will that work?

1.5 inch dowel will work fine...Lowe's has plenty of different sized dowels.

If you can make a 18.5 inch long dowel rod bracing the top board to the bottom board a few inches next to the sub cutout

1.5 inch dowel will work fine...Lowe's has plenty of different sized dowels.

If you can make a 18.5 inch long dowel rod bracing the top board to the bottom board a few inches next to the sub cutout

Can do. Those two dowel rods aren't going to affect the sound will they?

nope not at all

Well, tell me how we did. We still have to let the glue dry, and then caulk everything up and attach the front.



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did very well...if you want to make the enclosure stronger you can paint of coat of fiberglass resin over it so it seals the wood all together and seals up any leaks.

I'm anxious to hear how you think it sounds

I'm anxious to hear how you think it sounds


Me too :D

The wiring kit will be here Tuesday, so hopefully that will be the day.

I'm going to mount the amp vertically on the back of the box. They recommend that way in the manual so heat gets out better. Fits quite nicely. I think I may hold off on the resin. I think it's quite strong right now. Then again, the sub may be more powerful than i think.

Well the wood will soak up the resin and make it stronger and stiffer.

particle board?!?!
wow..idk what to say. Should have used MDF or birch....

particle board?!?!
wow..idk what to say. Should have used MDF or birch....

Well, particle board is used to build houses, so I'm not real worried about building a sub enclosure. I used plenty of wood glue and good screws. And of course I predrilled holes. I will be caulking the entire inside soon and the the outside will be getting a covering of truck bed liner.

Well, particle board is used to build houses, so I'm not real worried about building a sub enclosure. I used plenty of wood glue and good screws. And of course I predrilled holes. I will be caulking the entire inside soon and the the outside will be getting a covering of truck bed liner.
that is true but still...idk..wish u luck on that.

that is true but still...idk..wish u luck on that.

Thanks. I'm not real worried about it. I made a sub box a couple years back that had two 15's in it out of particle board. I made it for a friend. I covered it with the spray on liner and it became as hard as a rock. It seals well and prevents any damage to happen on the box. If it even is half as strong as it is in the back of my truck then I will be happy with it.

the material his is using is OSB...not particle board.

Particle board would have been better but I just suggested resining the enclosure to make it stronger...for a subwoofer enclosure you want the least amount of panel vibration. So the denser the material the better...that's why MDF is the best material. Baltic Birch would be good also but for over 50 bucks a sheet it is not worth it. Maybe if you want to have a light enclosure

Is it alright to spray the inside of the box with this stuff too? Will it affect the sound or airflow at all?

Is it alright to spray the inside of the box with this stuff too? Will it affect the sound or airflow at all?

Coat the inside too, it can only help. If you're talking about fiberglass resin. If you mean bedliner, then coat everything except the inside of the port- it could cause some air drag and some odd sounds. The main reasons for using other woods are they're acoustically dead(er). They don't resonate naturally in the subwoofer range. I think if you resin the box you made, it'll work out real nice.

If you mean bedliner, then coat everything except the inside of the port- it could cause some air drag and some odd sounds.

I was worried about the texture, but I realized that it goes on perfectly smooth. The texture comes from a special brush that makes the texture. I think it will be alright if i do a light coat on the inside of the port. I don't think it can mess up the sound that much....or can it?

it won't mess up the sound from the port

A few updated pics.

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/2562/picture094pr3.th.jpg (http://img84.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture094pr3.jpg)
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/7990/picture095gt6.th.jpg (http://img150.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture095gt6.jpg)

looking good

Well, got the box pretty much done. All I have to do is attach the amp, wire it up, and put the sub it. Turned out okay, not as good as I hoped because you can still see the wood pattern. Here's a question for you guys. Do I need to get some foam and make a cutout for the sub? I noticed there isn't any cushioning, it's just the ring straight on the wood when you attach the sub.

And if you guys want an awesome background for your computer, that last picture turned out pretty awesome :)

http://img352.imageshack.us/img352/8914/picture110qi5.th.jpg (http://img352.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture110qi5.jpg)
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The sub has a rubber ring around it already that seals itself.

if you wanted to make it so that the box looked smooth than you need bondo and a lot of sanding

looks pretty good though

The sub has a rubber ring around it already that seals itself.

if you wanted to make it so that the box looked smooth than you need bondo and a lot of sanding

looks pretty good though


Yea I did a little more fooling around with the sub and noticed it was a rubber ring all the way around.

Actually i wanted it a little rougher. Inside the truck of a bed it's almost a sandpaper-ish texture. It's just kinda blobby on the box. I won't have to worry about those blobby texture letting air in around the sub will I?

Last question. Since the box is tuned to 35hz I believe, where should the subsonic filter be at? Also, about where should the low pass be? The markings are extremely vague, don't really know where I need to be.

I usually play a test tone at where I want my lowpass to be then turn the lowpass up until I hear the sub get quieter then I back it up a lil

The subsonic I would set around 25-30Hz. This sub has plenty of excursion...I gave it 1000 watts free air and it didn't bottom out.

I would low pass it between 60-80Hz...whichever blends the best with your front stage

So I attached the amp to the box today, not sure where else to put it. I mounted it vertical and put in the wires for the sub. Just want to double check on the wiring. Is this correct? One cable will go to one side of the sub, and the other to the other side. Will extra slack in the wire cause a disturbance in the box? I presume you want them slightly pulled tight, so they don't bounce around. And yes I am double posting these on ICIX also.

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/2844/picture123wk2.th.jpg (http://img183.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture123wk2.jpg)
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i must say that i'm impressed..congrats bro looks really good..now for the real test..how does it sound

i must say that i'm impressed..congrats bro looks really good..now for the real test..how does it sound

Wish I knew. Will have to wait for Thursday. Wiring kit comes in tomorrow, and my dad will do all that. He is a firefighter and is working tomorrow. I really haven't done much on the box. Those efforts are mainly my fathers. He is pretty handy at building things, as the box shows. It was my mistake to not get MDF. I said here's plans and wood, let's build, and he started off.

Wish I knew. Will have to wait for Thursday. Wiring kit comes in tomorrow, and my dad will do all that. He is a firefighter and is working tomorrow. I really haven't done much on the box. Those efforts are mainly my fathers. He is pretty handy at building things, as the box shows. It was my mistake to not get MDF. I said here's plans and wood, let's build, and he started off.

lol..i mean it looks pretty strong and i bet that bedliner paint helped making it stronger

lol..i mean it looks pretty strong and i bet that bedliner paint helped making it stronger

Yea that's for sure. i would have no worries about taking a hammer and beating on this thing. It's solid.

So back to that wiring question, does anyone know if that is correct? I know it's a mono amp and I was confused when I first saw two sets of speakers wiring sets.

Also, do I need one of the yellowtops or will just a normal heavy duty battery work? I don't really want to spend $200 on a battery unless it really does a lot. I need to replace mine here soon.

I would say upgrade your big three if you haven't yet. My 98' explorer does fine with heavily upgraded big 5 and grounds. Even with my Nine.1 at full tilt at 1 ohm the voltage drops only to around 12.6 and I only have 4 gauge power and ground with one Duralast Gold up front.

Wire all the positives to the positive and the negatives to the negative on the amp...looks right to me. Its a mono amp...has one output. Just two sets for easier wiring of multiple speakers

Well the system is in. It sounds amazing. At first it wasn't doing much but after a small gain tweak it's amazing. I have a few pictures for you viewing pleasure. The box came out bigger than we thought, but still fits snugly. The wiring didn't work on the back of the box, but what we came up with is even slicker. Also, there was a nice spot to put the power cable through. It turned out pretty nice. Aznboi, thanks for the box designs, it sounds amazing. And thanks to everyone else who helped!Comments? Questions?

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Glad you like it...

So I've been reading a lot about clipping, but I am not really sure if I should be worried about it with this setup. I found a sweet spot with the gain around half, the bass boost is 0 on amp and HU. The Xover on the amp and HU are both set around 80hz, subsonic about 25hz. How can I identify clipping and know if it's a problem?

You can hear the signal clipping. I play a test tone....set the HU to the max you listen to it at.

Slowly turn up the gain...the tone should get louder and louder but have a smooth tone to it...once the tone changes pitch than that is clipping. It will sound like crap. I just back it down until the tone is clear again.

You can hear the signal clipping. I play a test tone....set the HU to the max you listen to it at.

Slowly turn up the gain...the tone should get louder and louder but have a smooth tone to it...once the tone changes pitch than that is clipping. It will sound like crap. I just back it down until the tone is clear again.

Well I downloaded a 35hz test tone. I set the HU at about 7/8ths. The gain I set to 0 and slowly turned it up. It sounded good up till half, but after that, it's just so loud I can't go any higher for fear of my head exploding. The roof of my car is flexing like crazy and the lights are flickering on and off. But I still didn't hear any distortion. Will this be an obvious noise? Or will I have to really listen close to be able to hear this?

if playing a tone clipping is pretty easy to hear if you can hear a slight change in pitch.

So how do you like the sound of the enclosure and sub on different types of music???

Could you take a vid??

if playing a tone clipping is pretty easy to hear if you can hear a slight change in pitch.

So how do you like the sound of the enclosure and sub on different types of music???

Could you take a vid??

I even tried different pitches ranging from 35-70 to find clipping, always got too loud before I heard anything change. Then again, there were some odd noises but I am 99% sure that was the car vibrating. I used a 79hz tone to set the low Pass to about 80hz, and a 25 hz to set subsonic

The sub sounds amazing with this box. Of course I started with Bass, i love you and rap songs, but once I got to ACDC, Eagles, Nirvana, Tim Mcgraw, and everything inbetween, it all sounded amazing.

I will be sure to take a video tomorrow. The travel of the sub on Bass, I Love you is quite amazing. I always wonder if I am hurting it. I play the 35hz test tone and I feel like my head is going to explode. The roof flexes so much it's ridiculous. Only once have I seen lights dim, and that was with the car off.

Don't worry about mechanically damaging the sub...The sub has a good deal of xmax and clearances.

I gave my 19Ov.2 1200 watts free air with the sub sitting on the floor in the back of my exploder. The sub was fine.

Well I tried to find clipping but still can't determine where the pitch changes. I haven't gone higher than half on the gain though. I would love to find it though to see where my safe zone is.

Got home from work and it was already dark, will try and get a video tomorrow.

while playing the tone what was the voltage on the amps speaker outputs??

while playing the tone what was the voltage on the amps speaker outputs??

Not sure, but I will test that. If I go for, say, 1150 watts, I'm looking for about 33.9 volts am I not? I don't think I want to push it to the max, a little under is fine.

Well try this first...play the test tone and turn the gain up to where you had it before where it was loud as hell...then put the meter on the amp and see what the voltage is

Well I tried that but the voltage read like .04. Is there a certain way to test this? I thought that it couldn't be messed up. But then again I wired the alternative way, so Will I have to somehow measure all four at once to get a reading?

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/2844/picture123wk2.th.jpg (http://img183.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture123wk2.jpg)

What setting was the meter on???

What setting was the meter on???

DC volts I believe. My friend things that the current has to travel through the meter, not just be in contact with the receptors. Does it have anything to do with the wiring? Would the voltage be halved because of two outputs?

Here is that vid you requested. Gain is set between quarter and half, didn't want to completely drain my battery. Playing Bass, I Love You.

http://www.vimeo.com/750655

And here is Speakerboxx Intro

http://www.vimeo.com/750726

I was just told that the sub is pretty much laughing at the power I am giving it. I believe it too. But I want to get it tuned right before I start throwing bigger amounts of power at it. And you know I was in a garage with no air flow. CO's a bitch.


Also, does anyone have an aftermarket security system in their exploders? I drive in some bad parts of town and I really want to get better security. Not sure where to start looking for those. Not sure what is involved with doing that either.

audio signal is AC voltage...not DC. Sound waves are like sine waves which is AC voltage on the outputs of amplifiers

looks like that 19Ov.2 isn't even phased by the power lol....its hardly moving...maybe give it some time to break in.

Haha. Well, I did the voltage test, and let's say in that video it's getting a measly 350-400 watts. And I thought that was loud. I turned it up to about 800 watts and WOW. That makes a difference. I literally heard the sub moving during Bass I love you in some parts. The car is really rattling now. Will take some more videos later.

Alright I am in a bit of a dilemma here. It turns out that if you unplug your battery from the car the 4x4 control module fails in the 02 model, so that is going to have to be replaced. So I am looking to do a few things before I get the new module so it doesn't fail when I want to install more stuff.

So first for a new battery. Just a heavy-duty battery will be fine? No expensive yellowtops are needed?

Next, speakers. I have a small amp that will do 2x80 RMS. I am looking for some good component speakers. Was looking at some Infinity's that have max of 90RMS, thought they may be a good match. Any suggestions?

I have a Duralast Gold and it works fine. I'm going to need to add another battery in the back though.

DieHard Platinum is a good battery also

WOW! The problems just keep coming. First the 4x4 Control Module, now the air bag light si giving me code 33, which means I have some problems with my pretensioner. And on top of that, it started missing shifts and hesitating horribly today. Seems this sub is giving me problems. Going to have to drain the tranny fluid and replace it, see if that helps. And a new battery is needed on top of all that. And do I have to mention the back end whine?

I have decide don the eD 6000's for speakers. Going to have to build some mounts. Not sure if I want to drop any more money on this system if the car is going to give out. Anyone have pictures of some mounts made for some small speakers to fit the 6x8 space? Also, where do you guys like tweeters in the Exploder.

Here is that vid you requested. Gain is set between quarter and half, didn't want to completely drain my battery. Playing Bass, I Love You.

http://www.vimeo.com/750655

And here is Speakerboxx Intro

http://www.vimeo.com/750726

I was just told that the sub is pretty much laughing at the power I am giving it. I believe it too. But I want to get it tuned right before I start throwing bigger amounts of power at it. And you know I was in a garage with no air flow. CO's a bitch.


Also, does anyone have an aftermarket security system in their exploders? I drive in some bad parts of town and I really want to get better security. Not sure where to start looking for those. Not sure what is involved with doing that either.



i have the python 460 hp protecting my investment...all said and done it was $230...
http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Python-460HP-Security-Keyless-Entry-System-Python-460HP/sem/rpsm/oid/119440/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

Well, I FINALLY got around to checking the voltage on the nine.1 and turns out I was overdoing it. I had the gain set at a little past half with 3v preouts and after checking voltage while playing a test tone at max volume a listen to usually I only have the gain set inbetween quarter and half. I have it set right around 33volts now ant 35hz. But for some reason at the same volume level 70hz reads more voltage, around 34. Is that normal? I just hope I haven't been damaging sub and amp. It sounded really good where I had it. it was loud as hell, and after backing it down, it seems quiet compared to what it was. Just doesn't hit near as hard. I want to set the gain by ear but I have tried and can't tell where clipping starts. I will leave it at it's current setting until I can get an experienced ear to set it.

Nam, how is your 19 working?

Mine is loud as hell...I had the HU setting on -4...now its at -12 and still loud as hell.

The voltage will be different because of the varying impedances at different frequencies

So now the sub is making this little annoying noise. I listened to this one song a little while ago that may have pushed a little too much, but the noise started somewhere in this time frame I believe. Any idea what is causing it? I hope its not early onset blown-sub disease.

http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?image=subnoiseavicl3.flv

Well, here is the bad news. My 19Ov.2 is blown. Now the good news. They hooked me up with a 13Ov.2 for $70 on clearance. The 19 is just too much for me. I want something that is small and won't take up my entire trunk, so it will be either stored for later or sold.

So I have a 13 headed my way, will be using the Nine.1 at 2ohms, pumping out 900 RMS which is a perfect combo with the 13. And honestly I don't think I'm going to lose much output.

So is anyone interested in a voice coil rubbing 19Ov.2 with a beautiful ported box tuned to 35Hz?

Oh yea, Nam, can you sketch me up a ported box for the 13Ov.2? I like the ported box, hoping to get another one, this time using MDF.

I am trying to sell my 19Ov.2 lol

9.5 cu ft box in my cargo area leaves hardly any room for anything.

I'm not sure how you blew that 19Ov.2. They can take quite a beating.

I'm not doing many designs right now...busy with school and other personal life things.

I also am going to buy a 13Ov.2. But rather go ported I'm going transmission line.

I am trying to sell my 19Ov.2 lol

9.5 cu ft box in my cargo area leaves hardly any room for anything.

I'm not sure how you blew that 19Ov.2. They can take quite a beating.

I'm not doing many designs right now...busy with school and other personal life things.

I also am going to buy a 13Ov.2. But rather go ported I'm going transmission line.

That's fine man, I want to try a sealed to start with, and if it sucks, I'll go for ported. If you jump on it those 13's are cheap as hell.

Not sure how I blew it either. But at low volumes it's really distorted and when I press down on the dust cap it makes a rubbing noise. I will just play it till it dies.

Come to think of it, playing a half blown sub till it dies won't hurt the amp will it?

I'd meter the coils and disconnect the blown coil

I'd meter the coils and disconnect the blown coil

Is it safe to run on one? Also, do I just check the ohms on the coil to see which one is blown?

yeah check continuity and dc resistance.

A blown coil can sometimes short out and fry the amp.

Well I checked the ohms on both voice coils and each is around 1.6-1.7, which tells me both are fine, and also explains why setting the gain using a multimeter was bad news. That tells me I was giving quite a bit more power than I should have been. Hope the NINe.1 is okay. But how can I tell which coil is going bad if both still work.

I tried some more songs today and there is a terible grinding noise at low levels. One is on the way out.

Also I'm a little worried about running it on one. I swear I read somewhere that that is bad for the sub. I would like to use the sub for a while.

Also, if I happen to get another 13, the NINe.1 can push 1200 at 1 ohm, would that be nice and safe for 2 DVC4 13Ov.2's? I'm very tempted. That way I won't overpower just one again, I'll give a good amount to each.

there is absolutely nothing wrong with running one coil on a multi coil sub.

there is absolutely nothing wrong with running one coil on a multi coil sub.

Oh, awesome. Now I just have to wait till that voice coil goes out. Is there any way to tell which one is going bad? I tried playing the sub with them hooked up, but even with only one hooked up it still makes the noise for both coils.

And on top of that I just remembered something. one day a while ago I was listening to some music quieter than usual and all of a sudden the sub started playing relatively loudly and sounded like interference of some kind. Any idea what this is from. My RCA's are on the oppo side of the power.

ground loops...I've had that happen once. Was loud as hell. Not sure where it came from.

Damn ground loop. Oh well, it only happened like once.

New question. The 13 will be here on thursday, making a box for it soon. But for the high pass im going to go for about 70 on this one. It will blend better with the fronts. The 19 over ruled everything in the front so I couldn't really tell where it blended. But on the low pass, does it need to be set on a sealed enclosure? I thought low pass was to protect a ported sub. Am I right on this? I will be going with a 1 cubic foot sealed for the 13, I like my trunk space.

subsonic is to help prevent unloading...that can be turned all the way down for sealed enclosures.