So I am going to step out and build my first box. Here is what I have - 2 10" subs (some MTX ones that I have from a previous build) and a 12" Kicker L7. I am running 2 Kicker amps - a 750.1 (to the L7) and a 700.5 (hooked up to my 4 door speakers and the 2 10"s). My current setup has all of this in it, just 2 boxes - which I absolutely hate.

Attached pics are a mock up of what I have in mind. I want to have the box fit under the cargo cover, so each box is 12" high.

The middle box is 1.94 ft^3. Kicker recommends .88 - 2.0 ft^3 for the sealed L7. The bottom of the box is 14x20. It has an 8" top, 2 inch rise on the front.

The sides are .74 ft^3. MTX recommends .6-1 ft^3. These bottom of these boxes are 12x11. The top is 2" and these also have a 2" rise.

Any thoughts?

PLEASE PLEASE DO NOT use two different types of subs....it will sound like ass.

Either use one or the other in a proper enclosure.

can you explain more?

I currently have both sets in the truck now, just in different boxes - and they sound great together. The 10s are in a dual sealed box. The L7 is in a sealed box as well, 2 ft^3. I am just wanting to put them into 1 box to conserve space in the back of the truck and so it doesn't look like 2 boxes thrown in there.

first off the response of each setup is completely different and you can get twice the sound with one setup in a proper box.

second it just looks super ghetto

You are going to get cancellation from the subs. The subs move at different speeds, they are different sizes and it would sound so much better to do either the tens or just the 12 in a box made to be loud. To hard to explain. Just take my word for it. I am in school for car stereo right now.

would you put a V8 big block with a small I-4 in a vehicle just because you had them both??

two completely different specs.

I can even design you a ported box that would kick ass if you wanted for free

aznboi3644, no I wouldn't put in 2 engines. Its obvious that I am not sure of my design, so I asked.

Sure, I will take you up on a design. I assume that it is for the L7 correct? I can't see the 2 10" MTXs doing much more than the L7.

Thanks for the help.

Well, which series MTX's are they? They could possibly outperform a single L7, it depends on the model, and exactly what you want out of them. If you want musicality, the MTX's may be the way to go. If you want all-out street pounding balls, those L7's are tough to beat.

They are the cheap 4500 series, specifically the T4510-04.

I have had them in the truck before, they sounded ok - but I wanted more kick out of them. Then I stepped up to the L7. I kinda want the best of both worlds. I listen to some rap but mostly alternative.

Honestly, I am not opposed to grabbing a different sub. I have a friend who wants to buy the L7 off of me. Not really looking to spend over $250 on the sub(s) though.

The main objective is to ensure that I can have the box covered under the cargo net and that I get the best sound (bang) for my buck.

My friend bought two L7's in Houston the other day for around 199 each. 12's. You can sell the Mtx subs and the box they are in for another L7.

...

I take back my response.

I can design you a nice ported box for your L7. The 4500's suck balls IMO. Weak bass.

all I need is your maximum dimensions and how much power you have on tap.

yeah, not too empressed with the 4500s, hence getting the L7 afterwards. Will probably sell them to my bro. Anyway.........

The dimensions that I am looking at - less than 12" tall (fit under cargo slide). It can take up as much room as you need from there. Its in a 99 X, so I think that is 41" between the wheel wells, I am not sure how deep it is (my old man borrowed my truck tonight, so I can't run out and measure it).

Power - 1 Kicker 750.1 @2 ohms, putting out 750 watts.

Thanks for your help man!

ok well I'll have the design up later tonight...I usually stay up till around 2 in the am

Here you go...this should sound pretty good and get loud.

2.5 cu ft @ 34Hz

The sub can handle the full power of that amp fine in this enclosure and port velocity is pretty low so thats good. Just make sure the subsonic filter is turned on on the amp.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p67/aznboi3644/12L7.png

I'll post more information about the dimensions and cut sheet later if you want this design.

looks good, I would gladly take the cut sheet, etc. I appreciate your help man.

another question for you - had one of my friends out tonight. we were chatting about my original design and he was looking at the thread. he just picked up a couple of kicker 10s (the CVX series). Oddly enough, he has an explorer as well - is that something you can mock up a box for? same basic idea, he likes to cover his up with the cargo cover too.

He was thinking of this wedge box he found here - http://www.decware.com/newsite/invertedwedge.htm - seems interesting......but what do I know?

I could do a design for them too. I'd do it tomorrow though.

I wouldn't go with the inverted wedge...it is just a sealed box. I mean if you're friend wants tight bass and not that loud...I hate sealed enclosures though. I always design and build ported unless the space is super small to work with

Here you go though with the cuts

All of the vertical panels are 10.5" tall

so

top and bottom: 36" x 15.5"

back: 36" x 10.5"

front: 32.25" x 10.5"

left: 14.75" x 10.5"

port I: 10.25" x 10.5"

port II: 10" x 10.5"

right: 14" x 10.5"

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p67/aznboi3644/12L7dimensions.png

Which box program are you using?

That looks like Sketchup drawings based on WinISD figures.

correct...I use WinISD and pen and paper first...then model up the box on SketchUP

Cool. I am getting ready to buy termpack.

looks good, I would gladly take the cut sheet, etc. I appreciate your help man.

another question for you - had one of my friends out tonight. we were chatting about my original design and he was looking at the thread. he just picked up a couple of kicker 10s (the CVX series). Oddly enough, he has an explorer as well - is that something you can mock up a box for? same basic idea, he likes to cover his up with the cargo cover too.

He was thinking of this wedge box he found here - http://www.decware.com/newsite/invertedwedge.htm - seems interesting......but what do I know?

What kind of bass is your friend wanting??

he really likes his bass to be tight, but loud too. best of both worlds?

all I needed to know...thanks

hope I am not being impatient, but any progress aznboi? Tomorrow I plan on on working on the vehicles and building out the boxes.

Thanks!

Here you go...3 cu ft at 33hz

Baffle - 41" x 17.5"

Bottom - 41" x 17.5"

Back - 41" x 10.5"

Right side - 16" x 10.5"

Front - 37.25" x 10.5"

Left side - 16.75" x 10.5"

Port I - 12.25" x 10.5"

Port II - 6" x 10.5"

Baffle brace is 16" x 3"

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p67/aznboi3644/TwoCVX10sclear.png

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p67/aznboi3644/TwoCVX10sCutsheet.png

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p67/aznboi3644/TwoCVX10sbafflecutout.png

looks good!

does it make a difference in the exploders if the subs face up instead of towards the hatch? I know the 10s will fit on the front and still be under the 12" requirement. Not trying to be combative here, just trying to further my knowledge.

Again, thanks for the words of wisdom, tomorrow should be fun and I hope to have some lovely pics to throw out later tomorrow!

also, should I use a router to knock off the 90* angles on the port? round them over or something, or does it matter at all?

Generally Explorers are louder sub up port back. Either way will sound good though. Some vehicles are louder with the sub and port on axis while others are louder with the sub and port off axis

If you do have a router than rounding the corners will help with turbulence.

alrighty, I returned the L7 (it was new, decided against it) and I picked up the 2 CVXs from my friend. We built the box for those today, and I have to say anznboi - this thing POUNDS! You f'in rock man!

For my first build it was quite fun. Friend and I went to my father in law's shop (he owns a furniture repair shop) and built it there.

Thank you anzboi for the plans - made it easy to put it together and sounds amazing! Fits great back there.

as normal, I forgot my damn camera, so the only one that I got was from my damn Moto Q today. Here it is.

Glad it worked out for you....By the way. His name is Nam.

No problem...Good job on the build also.

I'm glad you like it...First builds are always fun. My first build was for a single 12 inch sub, 14 inch cube externally and sealed. Took me like 3 hours lol...I was anal about getting everything perfect as possible

I hear you on that! It took about 3 hours to put this one together for us too.

damn thats not bad at all for a first time build.

Can you take some videos of some beats??

yeah, I can get one with my cell phone (I don't have a camcorder). I will have to find a place to do that at, can't quite do it at my house - damn neighbors will call the cops!

Wish I saw this before I left the shop yesterday, could have done it there. Spent 13 hours there yesterday (yuck!). Part of the change over was to upgrade my wiring and change out a 2 channel amp that runs my fronts to an amp that would run all 4.

I started out with 2 runs of 8 gauge (yeah, I know - but it worked for my first setup, then I added another for a second amp......anyway its fixed now), and stepped up to 0 gauge to two 4 guage runs to the amps. I have 2 kicker amps, a 750.1 and a 700.5 (when I bought this I originally was looking at my designed box - and would run the 2 MTX 10s off of the sub channel on the 700.5).

Running the wires took MUCH longer than I expected. Had to drill a spot for the wire to come through - I found a spot behind the wheel well that comes out perfectly, and lines it up to go down the track in the doors. Had to rewire my battery terminals, hook up all of the distro blocks, cap, etc. I also had to rerun my signal wires and junk on the other side. I ended up having 4 runs of 14 gauge speaker wire, 3 RCAs and 2 turn on leads going down the other side. Talk about FAT! It all fit under the channel though (under the black part, nicely hidden).

Fired it up last night and it sounds much better than the previous night. Friday night the subs were hitting so hard it was drowning everything out. Thats cool for about 5 minutes.....then it just bites. The 700.5 sure took care of that! I have a set of Boston SL80s in the front, Alpine KFC-5780cie (i think thats what they are) in the backs. I cranked it up last night and it sounds amazing at any volume!

Anyway - sorry for the long post - at some point I will get some video of the subs.

longs posts are good...the more in depth the review the better

Usually a digital camera's video recording is better than a cell phone lol...it cool though

So I am going to step out and build my first box. Here is what I have - 2 10" subs (some MTX ones that I have from a previous build) and a 12" Kicker L7. I am running 2 Kicker amps - a 750.1 (to the L7) and a 700.5 (hooked up to my 4 door speakers and the 2 10"s). My current setup has all of this in it, just 2 boxes - which I absolutely hate.

Attached pics are a mock up of what I have in mind. I want to have the box fit under the cargo cover, so each box is 12" high.

The middle box is 1.94 ft^3. Kicker recommends .88 - 2.0 ft^3 for the sealed L7. The bottom of the box is 14x20. It has an 8" top, 2 inch rise on the front.

The sides are .74 ft^3. MTX recommends .6-1 ft^3. These bottom of these boxes are 12x11. The top is 2" and these also have a 2" rise.

Any thoughts?

As much as previous people have mentioned using two different types of subs, you get the picture. But here's a suggestion you COULD do if it hasn't been explained all ready...

In my Explorer, I used to have 2 10" subs under the rear seat, with a 15" Audiobahn in the back.. The 10"s were all right, mostly used for cruising, the 15" was used when I wanted to show off or get loud. I installed two switches into my center console, so I could turn on/off both of them. One switch turned on the 10"s, another switch turned on the 15". I used the remote wire from the head unit to the amps to control them.

Anything is possible, but don't play all of them at once.

Well..........as much as I enjoyed building this - I sold my Explorer. If there is anyone in the St Louis area looking for some stuff, I have it listed on craigslist right now. http://stlouis.craigslist.org/ele/660092946.html

Smaller stuff I can ship, but the boxes - at this time no shipping.

:thumbsup: