...With the price of oil going up, it will not be long before the cost not only affects your gas cost for your auto's, but it will soon be seen in your home utility bill's...
...This would be a great place to discuss, share info, and post links to item's that can not only save you money, but also will make your home "Green"..:D

...Please feel free to post any info relating to a "green" home that you can find...I would like to see info for not only "Homeowners", but for "Renters" too...
_________________________________________________________________________________
...here is a solar power video...
http://renu.citizenre.com/index.php?p=edu_solution

...Here are a couple links to get you on the right track..;)

http://renu.citizenre.com/index.php?c=1169359642
http://www.fightglobalwarming.com/page.cfm?tagID=262
_________________________________________________________________________________

...Compact Florescents Lamps (cfl's) save money and soon, incandescent bulbs will no longer be available...But did you know, cfl's have .5 mil. of mercury per bulb and need to be taken to a special reclamation facility for disposal???
_________________________________________________________________________________
...I haven't read the book yet but, Ed Begley Jr. has a new book out titled, "Live Like Ed"...

...I myself am not a tree hugger but I am frugal...If I can save money and nature can benefit from it, it's got to be a good thing...:thumbsup:

Update:
...Check out post #45 & #46 for some great beginner video's...:D

...Here is a link to "Planet Green"..
http://planetgreen.discovery.com/?campaign=dpg-launch-1-mys002

LED lighting will soon dominate the lighting industry, and replace older technology which is not as efficient or "green". Check WWW.LEDTronics.Com. They have a replacement for just about every kind of bulb. They also make LED tube bulbs which replace 4 foot fluorescent shop light bulbs.

...this is true...they haven't even got the incandescent ban started in california and they are trying to figure out a way to get the led to take the place of the cfl's as soon as possible...:rolleyes:

...at the same time, they now have 3 way florescents and dimmable florescents that they are trying to market...:dunno:

I've seen the LED replacement light bulbs. Problem is LED's are very directional, and work much better with a good reflector and magnifying lens. They should have good ones, however. I like compact florescent light bulbs. You don't even realize it's florescent, there's no delay when you turn it on. They produce a better light, too.

Something we will implement in this house soon is solar water heating. This consists of a small panel on the roof with water running through it, a heat exchanger down next to your water heater, and a spare tank (we just have an extra water heater) to let the water cool down in. During winter months, drain it, and you have nothing to worry about. Very nice idea.

Some people have issues with certain types of lighting, so I wonder how everybody will be affected. For example, some people get epileptic seizures with certain types of fluorescent lighting. Maybe it's related to its frequency? An epileptic person told me about this a year ago. As for solar power, this is only practical in places like California, Mexico, Arizona, and other places which usually get a lot of sunlight. It wouldn't be too practical where I live. I know a man who owns a plumbing supply in my area which had an idea to install a solar collector on the roof of his garage. It only gave him a minimal amount of hot water, and ran out pretty quickly.

It would work decently here in Indiana as long as the trees don't cover your house. During the summer we can get sufficient sunlight to make it work.

Now, as far as solar power, that's probably wayyy too pricey for this region. Seems like it would take a long time to get the payback from that around here.

Maybe a few small windmills would work. They could turn a generator to create electricity to heat a heating element in an electric water heater.

Not enough wind around here to make any sort of wind power work for that, either. That also would only work out west in the open desert.

It would work decently here in Indiana as long as the trees don't cover your house. During the summer we can get sufficient sunlight to make it work.

Now, as far as solar power, that's probably wayyy too pricey for this region. Seems like it would take a long time to get the payback from that around here.

...if you check out the above link, it only cost $500 which you get back for making your house solar...(i am sure it is different cost all over though)

...as for the trees, there is currently a legal battle going on in northern calif over a homeowner who planted trees years ago, and a homeowner who recently installed solar panels...the current law in california is you cannot block sun to solar panels...it's going to be a good fight...:D

...as for wind, there are several other "green" options including plant matter...;)

...the links i posted are well worth reading ....honest...

I heard about that fight. Kinda weird, save the tree, or save the planet?

...i just found this, a ruling on the tree and the solar panels....
http://cbs2.com/consumer/trees.versus.solar.2.705540.html

That's crazy. I would be so mad if I had to cut down those trees.

...i think you didn't finish reading it:

On the eve of Earth Day, the state Senate voted unanimously to amend the 1978 law. The bill exempts any tree or shrub planted before the installation of a solar collector.

Oh, woops. :D

Yea, read it to fast, didn't see the end. Well, in that case, I'd say that was the right decision :thumbsup:

...here is a so cal. water conservation link...;)
http://bewaterwise.com/

...here is a so cal. water conservation link...;)
http://bewaterwise.com/

Yea, and they are calling for water restrictions here in SFBay area this summer.

Some ideas for "green"ing your home.

- Always check for rebates from the local utilities for Energy Star rated appliances. I got money for my washer and dryer a few years ago, plus I will getting two brand new High Efficiency Flush toilets for free this year!

- Insulate & Seal your house. However, be careful not to over seal - make sure your house can still breathe! I add insulation to every exterior wall I could - so, now, my house is almost 95% insulated (and it was built with zero in 1959). Sometimes the smallest thing(s) will make a HUGE difference. I added 2" of insulation to my roof (no attic space), and the winter heating bill dropped 20%!

Here's the current California Energy Code: Title 24 (http://www.energy.ca.gov/title24/)

I just got a CF light bulb for free from my local electric company as part of a plan to save energy. Another year they gave out coupons to get free electric timers from PC Richards. I managed to get 2 of them. There are tax rebates for installing tankless hot water heaters.

...Thanks Tom for the info and the link...:thumbsup:

..In California it is not so prevelant but, it doesn't hurt to test your house for "Radon"...Here is a link with a map...Click on your State to find the info in your area..;)
http://www.radon.com/radon/radon_map.html

...Brooklynbay: yes, most utility company's out here too, give new low flow toilets, shower heads, bulbs, timers, etc...I am glad you brought that up as this is one reason I wanted to start this thread so we may bring a little awareness to the members...Sometimes the info is as close as your local utility company...Most electric company's have online homeowner test that you can take to see what you can do to use less energy and some even will, for free, come to your home and do an inspection to help you figure out what you can do to save energy cost...:D

...Btw, currently, I can find 5 packs of "CFL's" for $2 at a few stores out here...;)

How about "centralized" lighting

One light bulb in a vented light box which has fiber optic bundles tied to it-
these bundles are routed to the rooms. When you enter a room, a shutter opens in a ceiling fixture emitting light-with a light cannister for every 50 sq ft of ceiling.
The one I saw used a single 100w HID bulb to light the entire house better and with a brighter spectrum than incandescent or fluorescent lighting could achieve.
This means less, and longer lasting light bulbs-greater efficiency, and, no electrical wiring for lights or switches, which is safer. The shutters and control switches are wireless.

...I would like to see that...If you could post a link..:scratch:

...This is something I started installing about 20 years ago and now they are coming of age...They used to be called Solar Tubes but they have evolved over the years...here is a link for them..:D
http://www.veluxusa.com/solar_tube.htm

...Also, in California, we have to install auto switches for certain areas that turn on when you walk in a room and they automatically turn of after X amount of time..;)

3M once came out with a light tube design for spray painting cars on an assembly line in a factory to reduce heat, and a risk of fires. One car, maybe a Lincoln Continental or Mark VIII might have something like this in the dashboard in a certain model year. I don't know if it went into a production model or was just a prototype.

...I have seen new Solar tubes on tv which were solar lit in the daytime, and they have a string of led's for night time lighting...I have yet to find a link for them..:(

We've been studying this in my Physics class in college.

If you really want to cost your electric bill, unplug what you don't use. In my house, I've experimented with a few different methods, but I'll just list my favorite. I have a surge protector on each wall, almost every outlet, and with easy access. Whenever we leave the room/house, we flip the switch on the surge protector, which cuts current to everything plugged into it. A lot of people don't realize that EVERYTHING you have plugged in, pulls power even when turned off. If you cut the power to it, then it's not.

If you don't want to do it to everything, think about this... Most people sleep an average of 7-8 hours a night, and normal careers are 8 hours away from house a day. That's a total of about 16 hours where your television is turned off, yet it's still pulling a small amount of power. This equals out to 480 hours a month where your television is plugged in, but not being used. This also applies to Dvd players, vcrs, video games, anything that's plugged in, even your toaster.

Also, I want to address another problem I hear a lot. Some people say it's cheaper to leave your a/c on all day, so it's just 'maintaining' the temperature. But you aren't there, if you have an a/c unit that is proportioned correctly to your house, it's cheaper to turn off the a/c wihle you're away, and turn it back on when you get there.

One more thing, ethanol and biodiesel are NOT the solution. If you changed all the corn in the U.S. to ethanol, you wouldn't even get 15% of the fuel needed.

Solar panels are also inefficient, they only capture about 10-15% of energy. Best thing to do is to do as someone else mentioned, make sure your house is insulated correctly, and to unplug what you don't use constantly. I'll try to find some links we used in class.

...You do have a great point as most people do not realise that anyting plugged in draws power...This is something the government has been working on with electronics...They are trying to regulate all small appliance's to show the power usage of these item's in the off position and include it on these item's when they are sold..

...One thing most people do not realise is that "Surge strip's" and "GFCI" receptacles are now sold as "Smart" item's..They are now designed to be tripped off X number of times before they have to be replaced...

...The A.C. statement is partially true...When houses are designed now day's, and since the late 70's, the A.C. has to be calculated to the house interior cubed square footage...This is not only the square footage of the floorplan, but it also intails the vaulted and lowered ceilings in the calculations...The exhaust fans and location's are also considered in the calks as well as the ceiling and wall insulation...
...Now, if you have a house that is well sealed, has dual pane Low-E windows, and is well insulated,(at least r-13 in the walls and r-30 in the ceiling), it would be cheaper in the summer months to leave the A.C. on at 76* when you are at home and bump it up to 78*-80* when you are gone,(Electronic Multi-setting T-stats are great for this) you would actually be more cost effective in the long run ...it takes less energy to maintain this temperature than it does to bring your house and all of it's contents to a steady temp of 76*...When I was in Las Vegas we tested this theory several times and it took 1 1/2-2 days for the house to climatise...;)

...Another item to test are Refrigerator's...It cost more to run a fridge with few item's in it than it does for a normally full fridge...The full fridges item's are at said temperature and when the door is closed, will come back to set temperature quicker...

...This is not to say that turning A.C.'s off for day's at a time wouldn't be cheaper...But every little bit help's...Btw, My electric bill is about $100 in the summer month's (90*-100*+ outside) for a 3 story unit...My neighbor's all range about $200-$225 for the same unit's..I also have "CFL's" in all my lamps, for now...

Porter has recently released a ceramic paint that has excellent insulation properties both Thermal and Audible.

I am currently building a new house and will be using the paint in certain rooms. Especially interior walls that generally do not have insulation in them.

Another thing to add is an attic fan. One can cut down on their bills with an attic fan because you don't have to run your A/C as much.

They work great here in Kentucky. Our climate doesn't get too hot. So one can run the A/C during the day. Then at night open your windows a bit and kick on the attic fan and your house will be nice and cool.
With that so one doesn't have to get up in the middle of the night to turn the fan off. I found a neat little switch that has different options.
Hold - Being on all the time
Then there are different buttons for different hour intervals. So if you want it on for 3 hours just hit the 3 and it will shut the fan off in three hours.

...I would like to see that...If you could post a link..:scratch:

...This is something I started installing about 20 years ago and now they are coming of age...They used to be called Solar Tubes but they have evolved over the years...here is a link for them..:D
http://www.veluxusa.com/solar_tube.htm

...Also, in California, we have to install auto switches for certain areas that turn on when you walk in a room and they automatically turn of after X amount of time..;)

Here are some illuminators

http://trinorthlighting.com/Store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=90&gclid=CM6598DglJMCFQ6bPAodpCVSAQ

http://http://sherlink.sherwin.com/swapp/color_visualizer/
easiest and cheapest?:dunno:

J/K

This is something we are all going to have to fully embrace soon with prices going up up up! This is great information and thanks for posting it. Little tips and tricks do add up in the end. Alot of this has to do with a mindset of conservation. If you are thinking about how you can conserve you can find little ways to do so each day through your daily routine. It all adds up!:thumbsup:

I'm going to post this in here-
this device has saved us plenty-and takes up no floor space.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148948&highlight=eemax

...Thanks guys for the link's and the interest in this thread..:thumbsup:

..JTsmith, is your tankless water heater all electric..:scratch:

His is all electric. Mine is natural gas/electric. Here's my product review: http://www.explorerforum.com/reviewpost/showproduct.php/product/302/cat/500

On the A/C system, this is what I have always been told. If you were to turn off the system completely on a summer day, even in a well insulated and sealed house, you will still heat up fairly well. A lot of this has to do with the solar gain of the sun hitting the side of your house, and the gain from it hitting anything inside your house. The best idea is to turn it up a few degrees during the day, and then turn it back down at night. If it is completely off, it can take more energy than maintaining a temperature because of large temperature swings. Just turning it up a few degrees, and letting it maintain a easier temperature, is better. This also keeps the air circulated in the house, and keeps the humidity down, which if not done could cause other problems.

On another note, one thing I've seen that can provide big energy savings is a full basement. Since the ground temperature is a fairly constant temperature, it aids in the cooling and heating of a home. All the mass of the stone and concrete holds the heat well. That's one thing we have personally noticed as making a big difference. The cooling that is gained from a full basement really helps.

His is all electric. Mine is natural gas/electric. Here's my product review: http://www.explorerforum.com/reviewpost/showproduct.php/product/302/cat/500

Wow-
How did I miss that?

How do you like it after time?

...To tell you the truth, I don't think I ever seen an all elctric, tankless water heater...

..I think it would be interesting if you both could post your monthly cost...:scratch:

...To tell you the truth, I don't think I ever seen an all elctric, tankless water heater...

..I think it would be interesting if you both could post your monthly cost...:scratch:

http://www.westsidewholesale.com/index.cgi?CATEGORY=427&HN_SessionID=@@@@1210218595.24883@@@@

here is EEMAX website

http://www.eemaxinc.com/

They will special build units also

It's hard to estimate exactly since the electric part of mine doesn't require much power, but the gas part only works intermittently.

On the A/C system, this is what I have always been told. If you were to turn off the system completely on a summer day, even in a well insulated and sealed house, you will still heat up fairly well. A lot of this has to do with the solar gain of the sun hitting the side of your house, and the gain from it hitting anything inside your house. The best idea is to turn it up a few degrees during the day, and then turn it back down at night. If it is completely off, it can take more energy than maintaining a temperature because of large temperature swings. Just turning it up a few degrees, and letting it maintain a easier temperature, is better. This also keeps the air circulated in the house, and keeps the humidity down, which if not done could cause other problems.

On another note, one thing I've seen that can provide big energy savings is a full basement. Since the ground temperature is a fairly constant temperature, it aids in the cooling and heating of a home. All the mass of the stone and concrete holds the heat well. That's one thing we have personally noticed as making a big difference. The cooling that is gained from a full basement really helps.

You are correct on the A/C part. That is why with programmable thermostats even with your furnace one can save huge money on the bill.
Generally your programmable thermostat will come with suggestions on temperatures and times to set the unit it on for best savings dependent upon your needs.

As for the basement. Sure it will help cool some but when you weigh the cost factor of adding a basement. It comes no where near equating.
Just for example in the house that I am currently building it was an extra $28,000 for the basement.

...Black92LX, do you have a link to the paint that you will be using on your new house???...I am familiar with "Elastomeric" paint but I am not familiar with ceramic paint for residential applications...:scratch:

...To tell you the truth, I don't think I ever seen an all electric, tankless water heater...


That's because California code doesn't really allow any new construction with electric water heaters; and they encourage current owners to replace with gas.

Did you know you can only install a new electric water heater in your house in California ONLY if:

1) No gas to house at all.
OR
2) your previous installed water was electric.

...Black92LX, do you have a link to the paint that you will be using on your new house???...I am familiar with "Elastomeric" paint but I am not familiar with ceramic paint for residential applications...:scratch:

It's a fairly new product and their website lists almost nothing about it other than it is available.
It's called Hi Hide Ceramic Matte
http://www.porterpaints.com/products/interior_paints/hi-hide_interior_latex/index.htm

..This would be news to me..:scratch:...Do you have any links that support the non-allowance of electric water heaters in new construction or the limitations of the use of electric water heaters in new construction???

..I do know that the State and Building Dept.'s, can not recommend, persuade, or limit you, to the use of one type of utility service...

..If you do not have a utility near your area you can contact the utility company and talk to "Builders Services"...I have personally had gas brought in over 5 miles to a house i was building at no cost..;)

...On the other hand, I have had to design and build 8 houses as all electric only to find out after the houses were almost complete, we had gas on the property...The gas company did not show this line on there map and we hit the line on Thanksgiving Eve...I never seen so many suits from a Public Utitlity in one place trying to figure out how this 6" main line got here and what it was supplying...

I've already replaced all bulbs that stay on for long periods of time with fluorescents. The lights we kept on all night in front of the house used 180w/hr, they were replaced with bulbs which use only 45w/hr.

We recently had our house repainted. We used a lighter, more reflective color to help reflect more sunlight. I finally convinced my wife that shutting off lights when you leave a room makes a difference. It all adds up - and I have to budget the electricity I use everywhere else in order to run the swamp cooler in our garage all summer:eek:

So much for going green! Keeping the garage cool wipes out any savings:crazy: Of course it would only be worse without attempting to reduce the overall load;)

...Rick, have you insulated your walls and ceiling in your garage??? Garages are not insulated in new construction and when they are, it is considered an upgrade..Even if you have drywall on the walls and ceiling, you can have an insulation company blow it in the walls and blow or batt the ceiling...also, where you live it is cost effective to have your attic insulation upgraded to an R-38...;)

...Rick, have you insulated your walls and ceiling in your garage??? Garages are not insulated in new construction and when they are, it is considered an upgrade..Even if you have drywall on the walls and ceiling, you can have an insulation company blow it in the walls and blow or batt the ceiling...also, where you live it is cost effective to have your attic insulation upgraded to an R-38...;)

you can do it yourself far cheaper.

Currently home depot or lowes don't remember which. Is renting the blower for free when you buy 20 lbs of insulation.

...Here are some video's I ran across...:thumbsup:

...So. Cal. going solar...
http://www.cbs2.com/video/?id=63283@kcbs.dayport.com

..San Francisco to fine commercial buildings for leaving lights on..
http://www.cbs2.com/video/?id=63517@kcbs.dayport.com

..CFL bulb's, some quick info...
http://www.cbs2.com/video/?id=61292@kcbs.dayport.com

...Energy Proof your Home...(Money 101, Great beginner info)...:thumbsup:
http://www.cbs2.com/video/?id=58296@kcbs.dayport.com

...and some more video's..:D

...Two, average homes contest ...
http://video.knbc.com/player/?id=243553

..Energy Expert Knows Green...:thumbsup:
http://video.knbc.com/player/?id=180103

...Going Green: Energy Audit..
http://video.knbc.com/player/?id=115852

...Hollywood Going Green...
http://video.knbc.com/player/?id=179386

...For those looking to "Go Green" with an automobile, here are a couple links...The first is a thread I posted here with a video...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215219


..This thread is that auto makers website...After looking around, there is a ton of vehicle and emissions related info along with graphs, C.A.R.B. related info, and current ruling information on ZEV (Zero Emissions Vehicles)..
http://www.teslamotors.com/

...For those thinking about going Solar and have a big home...;)
http://abclocal.go.com/kabc/story?section=news/local&id=6133929

...It's that time of year , for those of you that have lawns and gardens, to start working on your watering systems...

...A good electronic timer can save you money...Check your heads and replace as needed...You can also add an automatic rain shutoff that will save you a little more money...;)

Our house ~= 2000 sq ft. There are 4 adult sized people occupying it. I might add our daughter and grandson were here for a 2 week visit.
It is all electric, without a gas line on the property.

In response to the earlier inquiry, this billing cycle ( month) was 146.00. This includes my garage.

How's that?:D

...That is great...Are you running an extension cord from the neighbors house to run your oven???...:p:

...This gives me an idea...Maybe we can get you and Brooklynbay for example, to have a little contest on saving power..Maybe a few people can join in..:scratch:...We would list the last 12 month utility billing and do a 12 month evaluation and maybe try some "Green" items along the way..

...This could turn into a good thing for all, as we don't have money to burn...:thumbsup:

Good Idea!
I'll bet my house uses more "frivolous" energy than most. We could do way better. In fact I havent heard the stereo upstairs for a couple days now-and I just turned it off:confused:
I wonder what we could do if we went into miser mode.

It is the way we control the environment inside which save so much $$

We have window ac's for summer and wall heaters in each room, each with it's own thermostat.

http://www.cadetco.com/show_whereto.php?where_id=5

we have this in the living room

http://www.cadetco.com/show_product.php?prodid=1003

http://www.cadetco.com/support/products/x_large/1003.jpg

and these in all other rooms-using 120v versions in the bathrooms

http://www.cadetco.com/show_product.php?prodid=1002

http://www.cadetco.com/support/products/x_large/1002.jpg

controlled by these in each room ( line voltage thermostats)

http://www.cadetco.com/show_product.php?prodid=1020

http://www.cadetco.com/support/products/x_large/1020.jpg

It isn't pretty-but it is safe and effective. These wall heaters do not vent, so they are 100% efficient. I might add it can, and does get below 0 here.
Our highest bills will be in July and January-each around 240.00.

We also have a 48" ceiling attic fan. I think we loose as much heat in the winter through it as we gain by using it in the summer, but it sure is nice to suck in fresh air during cool evenings.

Our highest ever was 300.00 while doing construction, before the vinyl siding.

Oh--I might add.
Another energy saver, and just a good thing to do--


Trees for shade. This will result in a cooler attic and roof.

However you might just spend as much as you save on pruners-rakes and blowers--:D

...I may just start an Utility Challenge thread...:D

...People with attic fans can also add an inline thermostat...This way it is not only controlled by an on/off switch, but it will also be able to shut itself off...;)...most attic fans do have a 10yr warranty also..

...As for turbine roof vents and attic fans, there are insulated covers that can be installed in the winter months...

...And one thing I learned while living in the desert, grass around your home can keep your house 20* cooler...:thumbsup:

A generator which runs on garbage:
http://www.gearfuse.com/tactical-biorefinery-incites-trash-talk/
http://www.news.com/2100-11395_3-6155753.html

These solar panels are suppose to be easy to install: http://blog.wired.com/wiredscience/2008/05/roofing-company.html

...I need to check that out, and they are close by me too...This might come in handy for the future...:D

...I need to read more on them but my concern would be getting moisture under the panels...:scratch:

There is an email address at the end of the video if you need more information.

This new LED bulb is perfect for anybody which wants to make their home green, but you will have to earn more "green" in order to afford it: http://www.ccrane.com/geobulb/index.aspx

...Holy crop...:eek:..and that's just for one...:eek:

...The CFL's use about 9watts for 60watt brightness at about $2 out here...They started off at about $15 ..:scratch:...Hopefully the LED's will come down in price alot before they are required here..

...I don't know if they make a replacement LED bulb yet for a 10w-20w "Hockey Puck" holagen or landscape bulb but if you find some for cheap, let me know...I use the non-transformer style "Hockey Puck" lights for under cabinet lighting..;)

WWW.CCrane.Com, and WWW.LEDtronics.Com might have them.

...Endless Hot Water...
http://www.myfoxla.com/myfox/pages/News/Detail?contentId=6549986&version=2&locale=EN-US&layoutCode=VSTY&pageId=3.6.1

...This wednesday is the debut for "Planet Green" on The Discovery Channel...:thumbsup:

Oh Hey!!
We replaced our main "through the wall" 18000 btu AC unit ( rated at 10EER) with a 25000 BTU Goldstar from Wally world.
Believe it or not-this thing sems to be vrey well built. It is all cooper and sheet metal on the inside. There is no plastic to be found, other than foam insulation.
It also has an "Energy save" mode which the previous unit lacked.
Another feature I think will help with the efficiency is a " Auto Swing" , this is actually a motor on a cam, which moves the vent back and forth when it is running. This stirs the air very well.
I'm optimistic this unit will save us a few $$ .
It is able to keep the house comfortable on Low fan speed 1. , much quieter and just seems to be working less than the previous unit.

June's bill will tell the story. I should be running my oven. If The bill matches last year--oh, one can only hope.

...There you go..:thumbsup:...That sounds like an awesome upgrade...

...What is the SEER rating on the new unit...:scratch:

...Btw, here is a new, "zero energy home"...;)
http://www.cbs2.com/video/?id=68469@kcbs.dayport.com

...There you go..:thumbsup:...That sounds like an awesome upgrade...

...What is the SEER rating on the new unit...:scratch:

It is lower-8.5

I meant to put that in there--
however-I think the previous "GE" rating was high. It never seemed to kick off, or cool well. Or, maybe we were overworking it. :confused:

...For Future readers of this, a couple links...;)

...Here is a link for EER/SEER rating defined...
http://www.hvac2000.com/seerrating.htm

...And here is a graph for SEER...
http://www.althoffhome.com/res/Services/seer.htm

...It's Official...The Governator "Declares Statewide Drought in California"..:dunno:
http://www.cbs2.com/video/?id=68621@kcbs.dayport.com

You guys can have all the water from over here you need....

...I forgot to mention that new homes are going back to lowered ceilings and they want to eliminate vaulted ceilings (as per consumer request)...This area is lost cubic square footage where all the heat acumulates and yet you heat and cool this useless area..I am personally watching to see if this will move onto becoming a law for new homes, not only in California, but the rest of the nation...:scratch:

..The other problem with most vaulted areas is you have no control over the attic space..You cannot add insulation..

...The current suggested ceiling height will be 9' for new homes...

...Some more "green" materials used in the home...:thumbsup:
http://www.cbs2.com/video/?id=68713@kcbs.dayport.com

...Here is the link for "Planet Green"...I also updated the first post with the link..
http://planetgreen.discovery.com/?campaign=dpg-launch-1-mys002

To make my house more "green" when I was doing some work on it i made a few changes. Half the ceiling was missing drywall and insulation. I put R30 on that side of the house. I also added a whole house fan. In the evening we crack the windows turn it on and it cools the house down. During the winter we would use the fan during the day to suck warm outside air inside to warm the house up some as well. The other thing we did was install ceiling fans in the 3 bedrooms and family room. When it gets a little chilly we build a fire in the fireplace out of scrap wood left over from job sites.

To offset any energy savings from the above I installed a 220v 30 amp outlet in the garage for my welder and plasma cutter :D.

We also never run the AC or Heat. Mainly cause it doesn't work and I do not have the money to fix it right now.

When it is warm we try to cook on the BBQ out side, and when cool we cook inside to help heat the house a bit.

...OSH hardware is having their "Tax Free" sale this weekend...They sell Craftsman tools so that's a bonus...:thumbsup:

...Here is a nifty little energy savings page I found on their site..;)
http://www.osh.com/Cultures/en-US/Projects/HeatingCoolingInsulationVentiliation/Project+Energy+Saving.htm

..Here is a new Eco-Friendly toilet...
http://www.cbs2.com/video/?id=69022@kcbs.dayport.com

...The Green Energy Network for your auto..;)
http://www.greenenergynetwork.org/pages/welcome.htm

...Sears is having an appliance sale with 10% off and all Maytag washers and dryers are $100-$500 off this next weekend...:thumbsup:

well, I need to change my plans here a bit-

after looking at my garage electrical sevice and doing some quick math


Current service from house meter is 150A through a 150 amp service disconnect and outdoor panel, which has the 150A breaker for the garage, plus a 20a for our smokehouse ans a 60A for the future hot tub-
this alone will not do-

then, add this up--Once again my garage servoice is 150A

Compressor circuit=30A
oven circuit=60A
water heater circuit=30A
6 outlet circuits@ 20A each
220v "tool" circuit for dust collector-saws etc=20A


Now, at any given time-

oven=60
compressor=30
waer heater=30
dust collector=(draws 5A)
lights-5A

and boy, I am pushing it-not to mention pushing the whole main house service.

So, the electric co is coming to hook up a 3 phase transformer, and give me a good 240v meter, with supply straight to the garage.

this will free up the outdoor panel, my house service, and really hook me up for future needs. This will make my house more green-lol

Free of charge--:D

Thanks Westar Energy!!

oh edit
they can look at your power usage --The mapping ? engineer said I was very close to the edge at some peak moments-
he mentioned a large spike in december-I believe that is the one instance where all heaters in the house were running, and Sheri turned on the hot water, and I had the compressor running in the garage, along with some lights.

That would be a 250A draw right there--on our 225 A main service!!!
it actually blew out the feed wire fuse on the pole!!!! we lost half of the 220v

ha ha
He said they really should have been on top of this, and should have increased our service by now anyway.

...I was hoping to here you upgraded to solar...:D

...You would be surprised to know that they use that same info to bust drug houses...:shifty_ey

...I was hoping to here you upgraded to solar...:D

...You would be surprised to know that they use that same info to bust drug houses...:shifty_ey

So, drug houses use a lot of electricity? I don't get it:confused:
I'd think a drug house would have the utilities shut off lol

...Actually, these are the houses that produce the drugs...For "pot", They will rent big houses in high dollar neighborhoods and install grow lamps in every part of the house...Last summer they busted a bunch of these houses...

...This also goes for the other drugs....Say, someone has a gas increase to the amount of a commercial restaurant....;)

...So your electric bill drew suspicion and they were watching you...:wtf:...lol

...Actually, these are the houses that produce the drugs...For "pot", They will rent big houses in high dollar neighborhoods and install grow lamps in every part of the house...Last summer they busted a bunch of these houses...

...This also goes for the other drugs....Say, someone has a gas increase to the amount of a commercial restaurant....;)

...So your electric bill drew suspicion and they were watching you...:wtf:...lol

No
I called them. Our usage isn't that high-unless someone is in the shower, see.

One thing that seems to be catching on here are geothermal heatpumps. Basically works like a fridge with a compressor, evaporator etc. But using the ground as a heat source/sink.

In my case it's open loop, so I use my well and and 'waste' pond.

For example, in the summer, cold water is drawn from the well, and with an air to water heat exchanger cools the air providing air conditioning. In the winter, the cycle reverses, and the system extracts heat from the well water to heat the house.

Also, I've installed one of those solar pool heaters for our above ground pool. Works pretty good too. The pool was 88 degrees the other day. Ambient temp was probably around 82.

...I recently seen a show on geothermal heat pumps..:thumbsup:...Sounds good but they still need to find a way to do it in the city's..

well, I need to change my plans here a bit-

after looking at my garage electrical service and doing some quick math


Current service from house meter is 150A through a 150 amp service disconnect and outdoor panel, which has the 150A breaker for the garage, plus a 20a for our smokehouse ans a 60A for the future hot tub-
this alone will not do-

then, add this up--Once again my garage servoice is 150A

Compressor circuit=30A
oven circuit=60A
water heater circuit=30A
6 outlet circuits@ 20A each
220v "tool" circuit for dust collector-saws etc=20A


Now, at any given time-

oven=60
compressor=30
waer heater=30
dust collector=(draws 5A)
lights-5A

and boy, I am pushing it-not to mention pushing the whole main house service.

So, the electric co is coming to hook up a 3 phase transformer, and give me a good 240v meter, with supply straight to the garage.

this will free up the outdoor panel, my house service, and really hook me up for future needs. This will make my house more green-lol

Free of charge--:D

Thanks Westar Energy!!

oh edit
they can look at your power usage --The mapping ? engineer said I was very close to the edge at some peak moments-
he mentioned a large spike in december-I believe that is the one instance where all heaters in the house were running, and Sheri turned on the hot water, and I had the compressor running in the garage, along with some lights.

That would be a 250A draw right there--on our 225 A main service!!!
it actually blew out the feed wire fuse on the pole!!!! we lost half of the 220v

ha ha
He said they really should have been on top of this, and should have increased our service by now anyway.

Well it turns out it isn;t as easy as they made it sound on the phone-

They will hook me up free of charge, but I need to construct a 16' high mast-and provide 18" of ( 4/0 aluminum clad or 2/0 solid copper minimum) lead, down to eye level, for the meter box.
I went pricing and wow, copper sure has gone up. I though this was going to be a major setback.

Today my neighbor called and said he saw another neighbor on the next block with a load of scrap that had what I wanted

A 2" aluminum pole with mast-16' long with 16' of 4/0 solid copper wire and a meter box at the bottom.. He said he thought the wire alone was worth about 100 bux as scrap, but since I was a neighbor, he let me have the whole thing for 40.00

It is about 5 feet longer than I need, so I will have plenty for the power company pigtail.

As soon as I have a meter in, I'll pull the existing wire out of the underground conduit and hook it toi the meter. Since it was a 50 foot run, it is already 2/0 solid copper.

...With them including for you to install those items, I am surprised they didn't ask you to upgrade your "Ufer" ground..:eek:

..Here is a common minimum for a "Ufer" ground..;)
http://cityofsacramento.org/dsd/pdf-archive/UferGroundInstallation.pdf

WTF ufer?

...More power usually requires better ground...Your power company may be installing the ground...Have they inspected the panel yet???

...More power usually requires better ground...Your power company may be installing the ground...Have they inspected the panel yet???

Nope.

...Keep us informed as I am now curious if they will even do it out there..:scratch:

...Keep us informed as I am now curious if they will even do it out there..:scratch:

Our ground rods go in the dirt. :D

...I just seen on the news that the city of Seattle is selling all of their self cleaning pay restrooms...It seems they are real popular with drug dealers and hookers...:dunno:

...The report also said they were for sale on e-bay for about $85,000 a piece...

...I just received this from CNET...:D
http://help.cnet.com/9602-12576_39-0.html?messageID=2510931&tag=nl.e410

Shrink your next energy bill
The growing popularity of hybrid cars reflects consumers' desire to cut corners on fuel (and to pollute less). However, while greener transportation is in the spotlight these days, American homes consume nearly twice as much power as all the Hummers, Priuses, and biofuel buses on the road. Limited oil supplies are tied to the availability of natural gas, so sticker shock at the gas pump translates to higher heating and cooling costs, which make up more than half of household energy expenses.

Various appliances and electronics eat up the second largest chunk of our home energy consumption. The increase in telecommuting over our past decade of digital living means that millions of home offices hum with fully equipped digital communications hubs.

We also waste an enormous amount of electricity by running dormant devices left plugged in. Some studies estimate that the amount of energy that Americans fritter away on standby power could light up, heat, and cool the homes of two-thirds of the planet. In the latest big study to track household energy use, the Australian government last year found that households squander 10 percent of their electrical bill on electronics that invisibly suck power. Standby power buttons are about to become illegal on TVs and DVD players sold in Britain; here, you can freely adopt habits and install gadgets to eliminate phantom power waste at home and spare your wallet. All it takes a little common sense, patience, and ingenuity to assess what your home is spending and where to eliminate hidden waste.

Energy-efficient lighting options
High-powered flat-screen TVs and digital home offices have helped to spike our twenty-first-century electrical demands, but no individual gadget burns as much power as your lamps and chandeliers do. The average home spends about 12 percent of its energy bill on lighting--close to what's wasted on standby power.
The fix: Phase out those old-school, short-lived incandescent lightbulbs in favor of cooler, compact fluorescents that burn just as brightly yet use one-third the electricity. Start by replacing bulbs in frequently lit rooms until you can afford to eventually commit the whole house to refreshed lighting. In addition, you can install motion sensors in heavily trafficked areas, such as hallways, bathrooms, and porches, and let timers do more of the work for you by shutting down the lights when you head to bed.
Compact fluorescent lights come in all kinds of designs, but white LED lights could become the next big thing in greener lighting (as well as within monitors). For now, LEDs are too expensive to make efficient room lighting sources (although you could splurge on an LED desk lamp). The colorful LED clocks and displays on microwaves and digital video recorders can expend more energy than the machines do over their lifespan to reheat coffee and play movies. However, LED technology known as solid state lighting has great potential for becoming even more efficient, durable, cheaper, and more attractive than fluorescent bulbs in the coming decades.

The familiar Energy Star logo marks efficient lighting at the hardware store in addition to household appliances and computer equipment.

...Here is a new report on tankless water heaters...;)
http://abclocal.go.com/kabc/story?section=news/consumer&id=6383912

Do tankless water heaters cut costs?
Thursday, September 11, 2008 By Ric RomeroLOS ANGELES (KABC) --

When it comes to your gas and electric bill, it may surprise you to learn up to 30 percent of your money goes to heating your water. Many people are installing energy-efficient tankless water heaters in an attempt to get their costs down. But these systems may not work as well as you might think.
Tankless water heaters can cut your energy bill. That's the good news. But as we found out when we teamed up with Consumer Reports, tests show tankless heaters may not give you the hot water you're used to.
Shari DiPaola's two teenage sons take a lot of hot showers, which she knows can add up.
"They're always in the shower," said DiPaola. "Jarred comes back from work, Alex comes home from work, they're in the shower."

Some manufacturers claim you can cut your energy costs by half. Consumer Reports tested both tankless and regular water heaters.
The tankless heaters were expensive, costing $800 to $1,150, versus $300 to $500 for regular heaters.
Tankless water heaters are more energy-efficient because they don't store hot water. They only heat water when needed.
Testers, with the help of an outside lab, assessed the water heaters for both energy use and the cost to operate. Tankless heaters do have their drawbacks.
"Some people may think that tankless water heaters provide instantly hot water to the faucet. That is not the case," said Gian Trotta, Consumer Reports.
Another issue: If you only need a trickle of water, say for shaving, the tankless heater's burner may not ignite and all you'll get is cold water.
Along with a higher price tag, tankless water heaters can be a lot more expensive to install and maintain. According to Consumer Reports tests, tankless heaters could save you around $70 to $80 per year on your energy bills.
"But their high cost means it could take you up to 22 years just to break even, and that's not necessarily a big money saver," said Gian Trotta.

"But their high cost means it could take you up to 22 years just to break even, and that's not necessarily a big money saver," said Gian Trotta.
But if saving energy is important to you, getting a tankless water heater may be worth the expense.
Southern California Gas Company is offering rebates for its customers on tankless water heaters. The other utility companies have rebates and incentives on other energy efficient products.


Tankless water heaters resource guide:

http://www.socalgas.com/twh/index.html
http://www.sce.com/RebatesandSavings
http://www.ladwp.com/ladwp/cms/ladwp000478.jsp
http://www.bewaterwise.com/
http://www.dsireusa.org/library/includes/map2.cfm?CurrentPageID=1&State=CA&RE=1&EE=1

I wasn't able to fill up a bathtub with hot water on my original 30 gallon or replacement 40 gallon hot water heater, but I have no problem doing it with my tankless hot water heater. I could let it run all day, and it will make constant hot water. I save around $100 or more per year on my gas bill. The unit cost me around $1,000, and probably around $100 or less for parts to connect it. I have more storage space in the basement since it's smaller, and hangs on a bracket attached to the wall.

I wasn't able to fill up a bathtub with hot water on my original 30 gallon or replacement 40 gallon hot water heater, but I have no problem doing it with my tankless hot water heater. I could let it run all day, and it will make constant hot water. I save around $100 or more per year on my gas bill. The unit cost me around $1,000, and probably around $100 or less for parts to connect it. I have more storage space in the basement since it's smaller, and hangs on a bracket attached to the wall.

:D Longer, hotter showers --and still save $$

Since it only provides hot water on demand, it still saves energy since it doesn't have a standing pilot to cycle the water temperature when there is no demard for hot water. It has a computerized temperature control to fine tune the temperature, and GPM flow rate. A regular tank has an aquastat to approximate the correct temperature from the setting on the dial. I've heard that some foreign countries have been using these systems years before they were introduced in the US. I think the US gets things after the rest of the world tries them out like cell phones, solar hot water heating, LPG conversions for vehicles, and other technologies.

...A lot of items for the home are developed and used in Japan first, and after 10-15 years they are introduced to the American market...;)

At one time they were known for copying technology but now they create things. Look at the Honda Asimo robots: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=202154

This place sells LED home lighting: http://greenhomeexperts.com/

I work for a Heating and cooling company here in Ny
And right now because of the possible increase of oil this winter.
We now install dual fuel system which is basical a heat pump as primary heat for the house and then at a set temperature 36 degree which is read by a sensor outsie and wired back to 2 stage thermostat. Will change over to back-up heat which is either electric, oil (Furnace, Water baseboard, hydro unit Air handlerheated by oil boiler) or to gas (Furnace, Water baseboard, or to hydro unit heated by a boiler (gas)).

That one way we are try to help the customer.
another things Called hybrid fuel
2 stage Heat pump and a three stage gas furnace.
which is fact gives the system of being and having the ablity to regulate it self and giving a 5 stage heat system.


ONe thing I have learned by doing this for years now.
Every haouse has to ablity to either be GREEN or more effient but it takes time and little bit of money
Air gaps under any door no door
replace old windows with new nor effient windows
Replace old thermstat with new Programmable and set the heat lower and or A/C high when not home.
replace old and uneffient heating or A/C cost to repair in the long run. it cheaper to replace
HAve your Heating or A/C service regularly twice a year
Change your Air filter if you have then for you heating or A/C
Change all you light bulbs to flurosent Cost out energy out weight cost to replace.
Replace water hog Toilet with more effcient water saver
Replace Shower heads with water saver which in fact gives you better water flow to shower head
SHUT THE DAMM LIGHT OFF WHEN YOUR NOT IN THE ROOM TO SAVE ENERGY



That only a few things to help make your house more GREEN and efficent.

Well I guess it's my turn to update my "green" projects. Lowes has a sale this month where you purchase $300 worth of insulation you get a $100 gift card. I did some math(although using some incorrect measurements due to my stupidity) and found I could do the entire attic and "side closet attic" for just over $200 before the gift card. I figured what the heck, and purchase another 10 rolls to get the rebate. Good thing I did. :(

Here's the "side closet attic" photo's. Our house is a one and a half story with the bedrooms in the upstairs. Rather than having sloped ceilings in the upstairs they made the rooms narrower in the middles and put in a closet the entire length of the house. Great storage too. :D They however insulated the roof however rather than the spots by the bedrooms. Now not only are we heating the closet, but our shingles are "breathing" much either. O' well.....it was about 30 years ago they did this, so they really didn't know much about insulation anyways.

Here is a pic before....sorry for the crappy shots, it was with a cell phone camera with poor light.
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/medium/1001120205.jpg

And here's after....
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/1001134103.jpg


Here's a few pics from the spot above the bedrooms. This had insulation in it, however it was several years old, and showing it's age. In several spots it was even so torn that I could see the ceiling below it.

Here's a before pic....
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/1006093623.jpg

And the after....
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/1006114138.jpg

I still need to now get a few bags of blown in insulation to finish filling in the spots in the attic above the bedrooms where I simply ran out of fiberglass rolls to tuck into the spots in between the studs. Stupid me figured I'd need 9 rolls for this....I purchased 10....and somehow I was off on my math by about 10 foot total. I fudged this some by cutting them shorter thus the need to fill in with blown in. I like this way better due to us having a very steep roof and very little way to get the rolled insulation in to fill the voids 100%. Now with the blown in I'll finish making the attic insulated with an R factor of about an R-49 or so if my math is correct.

...I just found a couple new links thanks to Rocket 5979's thread found here, "An Inconvenient Truth... Come inside"... A must see movie...:biggthump
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=231326


We can solve it....
http://www.wecansolveit.org/

Repower America...
http://www.repoweramerica.org/

...Brooklynbay, this ones for you...;)
http://www.opensourcepartners.nl/~costar/leddimmer/

...Lutron and "Title 24"..
http://www.lutron.com/CATitle24/default.asp?page=whatisit

...An energy efficiency comparison table from the U.S. Government...
http://www.eia.doe.gov/emeu/cbecs/compareconserv.html

...and some basic electrical FAQ's I stumbled upon from a Ca. elect. contractor...:dunno:
http://qdelectrical.com/html/faq.html

You know, this is all fine and dandy for people who own their homes and have money to work with.

As for me, I rent half of an old, old duplex (built in the early 1940's, only thing I can afford) with almost no upgrades since it was built and I am currently on disability. I know the landlord has little to no money of his own and this is his ONLY rental property. He definitely isn't making a mint off of it because he is charging less rent than anyone else around here. Oh! He's a retired teacher so I doubt he is getting much pension from that. What would you suggest we do in this situation? Remember.... no money to work with and we rent the place here.

...One of the best things to do is caulk and weatherstrip the outside of the house...You can do this over time and it is relatively cheap...Caulking is about 1.50 a tube for 35 year Alex plus silicone and a caulking gun is about $3.00 and cheaper...This would help keep heating and cooling cost down...

...Also, unplug anything and everything that is not needed....You can get a digital thermostat for heater/AC/heat pump to automatically control times and temps....Fix any water leaks you have...

...I have posted some links to info for the all who want to know where to start conserving energy cost in previous post of this thread...It is some very helpful information...;)

We have been slowing switching lights are are run often to compact flouresants(sp?) but have run into an issue..

We have a few lights (ceiling fans) that don't have a on/off setting. Every time you hit the button to turn them on/off its actually adjusting the dimmer. That means over time, so a month, that as you turn the lights on they aren't on full power.

I want to install CFL there but from what I've read CFLs dont work (blow out quickly) if used with less than full power (on a dimmer switch)...

Do they make CFLs that work in dimmer circuits or do I have to wait until we change out the cieling fan?

~Markb

...Maniak, here you go...;)

http://www.e3living.com/catalog/121

http://www.buylighting.com/Dimmable-Compact-Fluorescent-s/113.htm

...Your fan lights should have a wall switch as this will help save power too...Even when dimmers are down all the way, they and the lights are still using power...

...One of the best things to do is caulk and weatherstrip the outside of the house...You can do this over time and it is relatively cheap...Caulking is about 1.50 a tube for 35 year Alex plus silicone and a caulking gun is about $3.00 and cheaper...This would help keep heating and cooling cost down...

...Also, unplug anything and everything that is not needed....You can get a digital thermostat for heater/AC/heat pump to automatically control times and temps....Fix any water leaks you have...

...I have posted some links to info for the all who want to know where to start conserving energy cost in previous post of this thread...It is some very helpful information...;)

Guess what! I don't have any AC/heating/heat pump. This place was built with a central heating system but it no longer works. It has absolutely NO air conditioning whatsoever either. We've already taken care of SOME of the plumbing issues but there may be others behind walls that would cost more money to get to. We redid the kitchen, thanks to a friend who works in construction, so that is pretty well in shape. I use energy efficient appliances and light bulbs (NOT CFL's, thank you very much, I dont use mercury anything)! There is no way to completely seal this place off because, apparently, when it was built it was not done in any set standard. The front door has a gap that runs at an angle (we've tried several different ways to seal it... the one thing that works best during the winter is to use duct tape over the gaps) and the windows have gaps that can't be sealed without completely sealing off our air supply. Putting in new windows and resetting the door would cost more than we have and it's just not worth it when you're renting. Again, IF I had the money up front, I wouldn't mind WAITING for the return on the upgrades. However, it's just not feasible at this point. If/when I can afford my own place, I will make sure it is as "green" as it needs to be without making me uncomfortable.

...I will attempt to help one last time on this...It is a California state law that a tenants unit is sealed from the outside weather...There is also information to be found on the providing of heat to the unit also...This info can be found @ California.gov under renter...
http://www.dca.ca.gov/publications/landlordbook/index.shtml

...I don't want this to turn into a legality thread...Sorry I can't be of more help...

...I will attempt to help one last time on this...It is a California state law that a tenants unit is sealed from the outside weather...There is also information to be found on the providing of heat to the unit also...This info can be found @ California.gov under renter...
http://www.dca.ca.gov/publications/landlordbook/index.shtml

...I don't want this to turn into a legality thread...Sorry I can't be of more help...

Thanks tbars! I appreciate the help but I also found this at the ca.gov site:

(1941.) Section Nineteen Hundred and Forty-one. The lessor of a
building intended for the occupation of human beings must, in the
absence of an agreement to the contrary, put it into a condition fit
for such occupation, and repair all subsequent dilapidations thereof,
which render it untenantable, except such as are mentioned in
section nineteen hundred and twenty-nine.

We have an agreement with our landlord that we will handle the repairs of the place and, anything major, we can take off the rent, a little at a time. This agreement was made when I was working and had the money to do the things that needed to be done (that's how the kitchen got done). Now that I am disabled, it is not a feasible thing. We've done the caulking, like you pointed out (not easy when you are in pain) and we just deal with it until I can be put back on working status. Once that happens, I will be more than happy to make the changes we need. Believe me! ;)

They make rubber seals to go around door frames with either a wood or metal frame. The door presses against it when it closes just like the new insulated prehung exterior door frames. You could also get a door sweep with a metal frame to keep the air from coming in from under the door. My house was made somewhere around 1922, and it has old doors with old frames. These small improvements keep a lot of cold air from coming in.

...That type of door weather stripping is called "Jamb up" and can be found at Home depot and other stores if you ask for it by name...(about $10)...Here is a link with some info..;)
http://www.communityenergyproject.org/doorw-stripping.pdf

Tbars, signing a contract for a large solar system for the house this week. Im certainly not green, heck Im not even politically correct, but this is a finacial decision. I'll let you know how it goes over the next few months. Expect to break even in 6-7 years even including financing. Then its free power time.

..:bounce:..Please do a complete write up on this...

...From the initial idea, the estimates, Rebates, Financing, General Decisions, and the work also...I as well as others, want the good and bad. I will follow your thread and may be able to use some of it's information in my daily work and pass it on...:biggthump

Goin the easy way. Completely integrated company (Akeena Solar) has designed the entire system (~7.5kW) and will install proprietory panels (Andalay). Great rebates and tax credits have reduced the price to only the ouch level. I can choose brands for the invertor ect but they have their recommendations too. We may compromise. I've done solar for RVs and have some brand loyalty already.

They make rubber seals to go around door frames with either a wood or metal frame. The door presses against it when it closes just like the new insulated prehung exterior door frames. You could also get a door sweep with a metal frame to keep the air from coming in from under the door. My house was made somewhere around 1922, and it has old doors with old frames. These small improvements keep a lot of cold air from coming in.

Hey! Very cool! I will look for it the next time I go out! Nice to know! Thanks BrooklynBay! :)

...That type of door weather stripping is called "Jamb up" and can be found at Home depot and other stores if you ask for it by name...(about $10)...Here is a link with some info..;)
http://www.communityenergyproject.org/doorw-stripping.pdf

Thanks again, tbars! Now I know what to look for and will definitely ask for it! It should help a great deal! If I had known what it was before, it would have saved me a lot, I'll bet! ;)

...Maniak, here you go...;)
<snip>
...Your fan lights should have a wall switch as this will help save power too...Even when dimmers are down all the way, they and the lights are still using power...

thanks for the link... I'll grab a set of those lights..

Lemme try to explain the ceiling fan operation we have on the problem fan...

The fan runs 24/7.. never turns off (been on for 8 years except when the power is out or when someone acidentally turns off the light switch on the wall).. The remote has a button that will turn on/off the light. That same button if held down will make the lights dim all the way and it then it will turn around and start to make the lights brighter. that means each time you turn on or off the lights you are also changing the dimming of the light.. that means over time when you turn on the lights your turning them on really dim.

this is unlike the other ceiling fan we have which turns the lights on full power each time they are turned on.

~Mark

...The fans I install usually will start in the same light as when they were shut off by the remote...:dunno:

...Just some info, you can also get a temperature controlled fan kit...It has all the dimmable features, on/off, plus it will turn itself on and off at a temp that you easily preset and can easily change...These are about $35...;)

Universal Thermostat Fan and Light Remote Control by Westinghouse and Hampton bay at Home Depot have fans with these remotes already included...

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21QHKPr0B1L._SL500_AA245_.jpg

...The fans I install usually will start in the same light as when they were shut off by the remote...:dunno:

...Just some info, you can also get a temperature controlled fan kit...It has all the dimmable features, on/off, plus it will turn itself on and off at a temp that you easily preset and can easily change...These are about $35...;)

Universal Thermostat Fan and Light Remote Control by Westinghouse and Hampton bay at Home Depot have fans with these remotes already included...

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21QHKPr0B1L._SL500_AA245_.jpg


The newer hampton bay fan (in the media room) turns the lights "on full" when you turn them on. It also has the automatic temp thing. We have the temps set low so it runs most of the time..

The one old fan we have left (8+ year old hampton bay) is the problem one. I just noticed tonight that I think the motors going bad on it.. Low speed won't turn the blades.. and high speed is looking more like the medium speed of the newer fan. I guess after 8+ years of it running all the time it dying.. that alone may solve the issue.. either way, CFL is what we will install..

BTW.. in case anyone is worried about disposing of CFLs (mercury etc) Home depot (at least around here) has a bin where you put your old bulbs and they will be disposed of/recylcled accordingly... The bin is by the returns desk at the local HDs...

~Mark

...Maniak, for 2 days only HD has fans on sale for up to 40% off...;)
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Navigation?storeId=10051&categoryID=529153&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&cm_mmc=hd_email-_-010509_RESOLUTION_N32-_-010509_Resolutions-_-Fans%20IMG%20-27L&locStoreNum=615&marketID=48

Here's an easy way to insulate your old doors: http://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-78196-Weatherstrip/dp/B000CSN6B0/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1231648466&sr=8-33

...For lighting, I am currently looking into new items produced by this company..;)
http://www.heralighting.com/hera/led_info.html

...For lighting, I am currently looking into new items produced by this company..;)
http://www.heralighting.com/hera/led_info.html

I like this idea better! I HATE cfl's the light quality stinks. Zukman tried to replace all lights in the house with cfl's I thought I was a mole!!! lol
The led's give off a very even and bright light, just what these old cranky eyes like. I hate the dark!!!!

...That link I posted is mainly all LED's with a few cfl's...There is a trick to lighting even with CFL's...Each mfg company may have a cool white but the varation's are great...

...Most people when purchasing bulbs go for wattage and comparables but miss out on Lumen's...

I was reading a magazine today, and came across something interesting. There is a new kind of light bulb called an ESL (electron-stimulated luminescence) that is better than a CF bulb, and is cheaper to manufacture than an LED bulb. Here are some links:
http://www.greenoptimistic.com/2008/08/03/esl-light-bulbs/
http://gizmodo.com/5032387/esl-bulbs-are-better-than-cfls-and-leds-says-company
http://www.vu1.com/technology/technology.htm
http://www.greenoptimistic.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/esl.jpghttp://www.vu1.com/technology/images/comparetable.gif

...BB, I've seen those bulbs but I will keep an eye out for more info when I run across them again...:biggthump

...I was hoping to find a link today but I couldn't...:(

...The Mayor of L.A. , (besides the Solar power I posted earlier) just signed a bill to purchase power from Mexico...The power is to be supplied by a Geothermal plant in Mexicali...

Side note: Home Depot is now offering Solar Panel installation out here and the supplier is BPPetroleum...Arco gas is owned by them out here...:dunno:

BP is one of a few true designers of solar PV panels. Others include Sharp, Sanyo, Shell.

...I seen one of these in action the other day...It is used in commercial applications and yes, it is completely waterless...Thought I would share...:D
http://www.sloanvalve.com/waterfreeindex_ENU_HTML.htm

http://www.sloanvalve.com/waterfree/images/WES1k.jpg

...It's Fall and just a reminder, now is the time to plant trees...;)

...I currently ran into these shower heads that should save you money in a new way...:biggthump
http://evolveshowerheads.com/

...These are starting to be seen a little more frequent out here...It is a 1.28 gpf Niagara Flapperless no maintenance and leak-free flush system. made by Glacier Bay...
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100659088&N=+90401+10000003+20000061

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/38/38ca260d-739a-4d8c-883c-14e7a0df0a73_300.jpg

GLACIER BAY® 1.28 GPF WATER SENSE COMPLETE TOILET KIT

USES 60% LESS WATER THAN A 3.5-GALLON PER FLUSH TOILET

• Includes everything you need in one box: tank, bowl seat, wax ring and bolt cap
FLUSH PERFORMANCE: 10
CHAIR HEIGHT: 16"-17"
ROUND


GLACIER BAY® 1.28 GPF WATER SENSE COMPLETE TOILET KIT

$88
WAS $114
NEW LOWER PRICE, EXCLUSIVE
Valid 08/13 - 08/19 (779923


Glacier Bay 1.28 gallon per flush HET round front all-in-one toilet. EPA WaterSense listed. Niagara Flapperless no maintenance and leak-free flush system. Uses less than 60% of the water that a 3.5 gallon per flush toilet uses. Comes with wax ring and toilet seat

1.28 GPF Niagara Flapperless No Maintenance and Leak Free Flush System
Large Footprint - Excellent For Retrofitting
Adjustable For 10 1/2 In. - 12 In. Rough In
Limited Lifetime Warranty
EcoOption : Eco Options
MFG Brand Name : Glacier Bay
MFG Model # : N2225R-165


ADA Compliant : No
Assembled Depth (In Inches) : 28.25 In.
Assembled Height (In Inches) : 30.75 In.
Assembled Weight (In LBS) : 82.3
Assembled Width (In Inches) : 17.8 In.
Bowl Rim Height : 16.5 In.
Collection Name : Glacier Bay
Color / Finish : White
Gallons Per Flush : 1.28 Gal.
Pressure Assisted : No
Toilet Type : Two-Piece
Trip Lever Location : side
Weight : 82.3 Lbs.

...This is the Niagara Flapperless Toilet Review...
http://411plumb.com/niagara-flapperless-toilet-review

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/500/toilet_003.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/500/toilet_001.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/500/toilet_002.jpg

^ that's interesting...

They should make a kit for older toliets, don't see why it would not work.

It said $159 when I clicked onto the link.
http://411plumb.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/flapperless_bucket.jpg

...They are $88 when they are on promotional sale at the stores and the last one was in August..They are now $159...My buddy did just buy 2 of them for $88 at HD this last week...It's California, what can I say...:dunno:

^ that's interesting...

They should make a kit for older toliets, don't see why it would not work.

The bowl design won't make it an efficient flush. Remember the early low water use toilets? They just messed with the tank but didn't redesign the bowl. Those thing didn't work well at all..

I think this might have the same issue on those older 5 or so gallon flush units.

~Mark

...It actually doesn't store more water in the bowl...It does flush as well as could be expected for low water consumption and it seems like it would be minimal maintenance...

Does it come in any other styles such as an elongated bowl or a one piece design? Does the toilet seat have the soft close feature?

...Brb, I will be umm, :shifty_ey ...professionally taking a test drive...:D

I think that the Gerber with the Sloan Flushmate system has the most powerful flush compared to other tank toilets.

...HD does sell them in an elongated bowl...I myself never really had a preference but this round bowl is a nice height but is a little small on the seat...The seat is plastic and would be one I would change out...

...As for what this was designed for, low water usage at 1.28 GPF and low maintenance, I would buy one especially for rental properties...

...As for home personal use, I think it would be great and the only thing I would change is the seat and an elongated bowl...It does seem to discard the waste well enough...:D...(As compared to the first gen of low flow toilets)..:rolleyes:

I have two of those flapper less toliets.. Replaced old, 5 gallon flush buckets from 1959.

I even got the local water district to pay for them!

How Stuff Works has an article on tankless water heaters: http://home.howstuffworks.com/tankless-water-heater.htm. This article is on regular tank style water heaters: http://home.howstuffworks.com/water-heater.htm

..From drab to prefab...
http://cbs2.com/local/Living.Homes.Prefab.2.1294088.html

..Quick video
http://www.cbs2.com/video/?id=118677@kcbs.dayport.com

Newport Beach 'Green' Home To Be Built In 1 Day
NEWPORT BEACH (CBS) ―
http://llnw.image.cbslocal.com/18/2009/11/05/320x240/prefab_home_newport_beach.jpg

"In just a few short hours, an empty lot in Newport Beach morphed into a prefabricated "green" home.

Designed by architecture firm Kieran Timberlake, LivingHomes helped create Orange County's first LEED-Platinum certified home.

The home is located at 119 44th Street in Newport Beach."

...The info on the home...
http://www.livinghomes.net/modelDetail.html?model=kt1.5

...And the company's main page...
http://www.livinghomes.net/primer.html;jsessionid=E461A85B513E0B9626019553BC8BA5D7

Roof tiles that are solar cells:
http://srsenergy.com/Products/SolePowerTiles.aspx
http://www.ustile.com/Pages.aspx/Sol-Power-Tile
http://www.ustile.com/Pages.aspx/Sole-Solar-Tile-Gallery