Introduction:

Most modern ovens which are built today use a bar which glows to ignite gas for cooking. It is synonymous to a glow plug in a diesel engine. The top burners use a spark ignition which is synonymous to a spark plug in an internal combustion engine. Now, to explain the theory behind the glow bar, there are two designs: flat & round. The bar is wired in a series circuit with the gas valve. When the bar glows, it will continue to allow more current & voltage to pass into the valve until it get to its full brightness. At this point, it will allow the valve to fully open, and transfer gas into the burner assembly. The igniter will ignite the gas, and create a flame. If this bar does not come up to its full brightness, it won't allow the valve to open as a safety feature. A sign of a failing igniter is an oven which takes a few minutes to start, then cuts out with an occasional smell of gas.

Safety:

Always try to unplug the oven or turn off the circuit breaker before servicing an electrical appliance. Your work area should be clean, and dry.

This is the inside of the oven with the front door removed for easy access:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/Inside_of_the_oven_.JPG
You have to remove the two corner screws to get to the igniter:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/Remove_2_corner_screws_to_access_the_igniter_.JPG
This is a picture of the weak igniter trying to start the oven:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/Defective_igniter_glowing_but_very_dim_.JPG
The next step is to remove two small hex head screws holding the igniter to the burner assembly:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/The_igniter_is_held_by_these_2_screws_Ignitor_is_at_an_angle_.JPG
The original factory igniter was pushed slightly inward. It's not necessary to make this part so close. Excess heat is not good for the ceramic element.
This is the bottom of the oven with the lower pull out drawer removed:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/Oven_top_bottom_view_.JPG
You could see part of the electrical plug in this picture. Here's a close up view of the connector which has to be unplugged:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/The_electrical_plug_for_the_igniter_.JPG
Here is a picture of the new igniter:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/New_square_style_igniter_.JPG
Now it's time to install this new part. The two screws are getting tightened while the igniter is kept straight:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/The_igniter_is_held_by_these_2_screws_The_igniter_is_straight_.JPG
Here's the test. The oven is turned on, and the igniter is glowing at full brightness:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/The_igniter_is_at_full_brightness_before_ignition_.JPG
It's a little hard to see the blue flame in this picture but the oven is now on!
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/The_oven_is_on_.JPG
Wait until everything cools down, and replace the inner tray, racks, door, and drawer.

Thank You for posting the easy fix to a cook's dilemma!

In my case however there are 2 igniters (Viking) wired in series they require you to replace both (unless you want to do the job again in about 2-3 months!

I've never seen a dual igniter set up. Do you have a picture of this?

Would this cause the cooking time to be longer. Like when the stove get to the temb you want it cuts off then cuts back on a bad element would make it take longer to start back up. It takes me about 30 mints longer to cook food in this one vs my old one.

Yes, a failing igniter will cause the food to take longer to cook. The flame will be smaller, and stay lit only for brief intervals.

Woot i been wondering what it was tanks a lot now i know what im doing this week end.

sorry no pic's of dual igniters. there is one for each side of the oven as it is big enough to roast Stic-o in! roflmao:D:confused:

Does it have two igniters on the top for broiling?

I just did another igniter yesterday on an oven which looked similar to mine in the above pictures. This one had the round igniter (mine is flat), and the 2 holding screws were on the bottom of the long tube. I had to get all of the way in the back under the inner tray to get to the 2 screws holding the rear of the tube to the oven. It's very difficult (if not impossible) without removing the long tube to get to those 2 screws holding the igniter. It was not an easy job. That model was 2 years older. They made it with different parts, and it was harder to work on.

:thumbsup:
thanks so much BB, my MOTHER did this alone by herself while i was at work the other day in less than an hour, she had to use a hacksaw to cut a stuck nut off, but our oven heats up now! it used to take 2 hours to get it to 400.
thanks again!