Dont know what the heII happend today. It started off with one of my subs freezing up. Me rewiring the box And running one sub. Test it out for about 2 minutes then the sub blows and kills two 30 amp fuses in my amp..... Any opinions? Im no getting any thing else till i haven idea as to what couldve caused this.

Could be an electrical short, exceeding limits of subwoofer, user error.

Put some new fuses in the amp and see if it works still...sometimes if a coil fries it'll short and blow the amp.

it sounds like the amp isnt tuned right... so your giving to much power to one voice coil then the other... be careful and be smart pay someone to do it.. its not easy..

ive had these subs for about a month a half and my gain had been set at 3/4 and my head unit sub setting was at 0 and all other bass tunings where at half way with loud off. I put 2 new fuses in and thats when the second sub blew after 2 min or so. (after rewiring of course.)

maybe it isnt wired correctly. what kind of subs, what kind of amp? maybe the power cable grounded out somewhere.

xplod amp and subs in nice tube port box, beleive it or not i was getting signifacant flex, and hop from innatement object in the truck, while hitting clear. I tuned everything for sq and dropped all the bass settings down and a week and a half later they blew. My ground is welded to the floor where the crank bar for spare is when you fold down the back seat. All connections to amp are tight and the wiring from amp to subs and throughout box was correct. Also the amp was bridged

Edit:

Edit: No wonder they have a reputation, they are unique. The fuses are or are not on the amp itself?? What model specifically do you have?

xplod amp and subs in nice tube port box, beleive it or not i was getting signifacant flex, and hop from innatement object in the truck, while hitting clear. I tuned everything for sq and dropped all the bass settings down and a week and a half later they blew. My ground is welded to the floor where the crank bar for spare is when you fold down the back seat. All connections to amp are tight and the wiring from amp to subs and throughout box was correct. Also the amp was bridged

Sounds like wrong connection on the subs, Bridge amps are in general only stable at 4ohm, maybe you wire it lower and the blow the subs.

Can you possibly open the amp up? if it isn't under any warranty...

take off any connections for speakers off the amp, make sure the amp fires up just fine, then go from there. If she pops fuses with no speakers plugged in your looking at an internal problem in the amp.

hopefully you don't run into this... though now its fixed and working fine :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/Brandons/DSCF0432.jpg

There's an article that says the Xplod amp (a specific model) is known for blowing fuses...

it just sounds like it was tuned wrong... should be easiely fixed.. and buy a cap for it.. that way it has a constant source of power.. thats what a cap does it stores power so the battery isnt just killing itself more farads the better.. but with your system one farad would be fine. that could be it also your amp was not getting a constant source of power so it was just sending bursts to your subs and accidently sent WAY to much to a sub and thats what happened.. but by a cap its well worth it.

Or go dual batteries :p

it just sounds like it was tuned wrong... should be easiely fixed.. and buy a cap for it.. that way it has a constant source of power.. thats what a cap does it stores power so the battery isnt just killing itself more farads the better.. but with your system one farad would be fine. that could be it also your amp was not getting a constant source of power so it was just sending bursts to your subs and accidently sent WAY to much to a sub and thats what happened.. but by a cap its well worth it.

A cap is just a crutch or bandaid if you will, for other problems with the electrical system. Upgrade the big 3 first then see if buying a cap is even needed.

It doesn't sound like a cap is going to solve this problem. As posted before it sounds like too much load on the amp, maybe a melted coil.

Cap might make it worse.....

Its the black xplod "1000" watt amp, i know it about 400 watts.And the only way to tune the amp is by gain and lpf But yes the fuses are on the outside i was referring to the fuses for the amp not inside. Its a cheap throw together, i sold my nicest stereo with my last car and i paid 140 bucks amp and subs. But i know the amp does still work, i checked her out after poppin a set of new fuses in. but both of the subs froze up. They were still emitting sound persay but sounded as if they were grinding. Im definatly gonna run a cap and battery for the next setup i just dont wanna run in to the same issue.

so.. the fuse for the 12volt line to the amp blew, not the actual fuses in the amp..? just to clarify.

This is one time I really have to agree that the Xplod series, gulp, Sony, is not the way to go. I stick by their h/u, but the other articles, sounds like these guys have been right all along.

Their head units, I have had nothing but issues with (CDX-F5700, 5750 i think), but damn ive never had better sound quality out of an h/u as well as FM quality.

A cap is just a crutch or bandaid if you will, for other problems with the electrical system. Upgrade the big 3 first then see if buying a cap is even needed.

It doesn't sound like a cap is going to solve this problem. As posted before it sounds like too much load on the amp, maybe a melted coil.

do you know what a cap does?
if you wire it correctly a cap limits power to the amp and sub... so it would fix the problem..
a cap both stores power and limit how much goes to the specified item..

He's saying that a CAP is a "bandaid" because if you "need" one, it basically means that your electrical system cannot handle the load of the subs/amp. In the long run you would be better off upgrading wires, alternator, or going dual battery.

btw, a cap doesn't "limit power" it stores a charge so when the subs hit, it is less of a shock on your alternator and battery, which should be upgraded if they cannot handle the load, bringing you back to the "bandaid" comment.

Also I don't know if anyone has noticed or not.. but amps have capacitors built in (though not as large) for that task, filter the power a bit. Also a 1 farad cap can power a small led (which is like 0.0## watts?) for about 35 seconds...

He's saying that a CAP is a "bandaid" because if you "need" one, it basically means that your electrical system cannot handle the load of the subs/amp. In the long run you would be better off upgrading wires, alternator, or going dual battery.

btw, a cap doesn't "limit power" it stores a charge so when the subs hit, it is less of a shock on your alternator and battery, which should be upgraded if they cannot handle the load, bringing you back to the "bandaid" comment.

a cap does limit power if you have the correct cap the cap will not allow so much power to a certain point.. its kinda like a rev lim.
and its always good to have a cap. even if you spend 500 on a alternator if you don't have a cap the alternator after time will die. the cap just saves your ass. and dual batts for that system really isnt needed..
hell ill put two 1 farad caps in and show you that it saves alot of duty for the alternator..

back to the main point.. is it working yet? any luck?

A capacitor does not have the "brains" to limit power. It does nothing more than store electrons for a time when they are needed, and the amount it stores based on it's size. It may help condition the line so there isn't as much strain on the system by pulling from this store when the system really needs it, but it's not really helping too much if the electrical system isn't up to par. If the current going to a cap isn't enough then it's not really going to do anything. If the system is efficient enough to run and amp "properly" it's just another $100 you didn't need to spend. If you do the research you'll find that the alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a capacitor to be of benefit which is ironically the same requirements for an amp to be efficient.

But anyway, back on topic. Have you gotten any further into this?

a cap does limit power if you have the correct cap the cap will not allow so much power to a certain point.. its kinda like a rev lim.
and its always good to have a cap. even if you spend 500 on a alternator if you don't have a cap the alternator after time will die. the cap just saves your ass. and dual batts for that system really isnt needed..
hell ill put two 1 farad caps in and show you that it saves alot of duty for the alternator..

seems like you do not know what a capacitor really does.

A cap is a power conditioner...usually to control voltage spikes and dips of around .1 volts.

A cap will NOT save your alternator from failing.

A cap is a band-aid for a bullet wound...a very poor band-aid.

Telling someone to go ahead and buy a cap is a poor response. Yes a cap will do something IF the electrical system is already beefed up. But adding a capacitor to an already weak electrical system will only speed up the death of the alternator. It will only be another load for the alternator.

i pretty much 2nd aznboi there...

now i found this http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PWM%2D47768&view=1&N=700+150+4294924666+4294908331+4294907830+4294925143+4294839060+4294880793+ and i was curious if im running something next to insane (not crazy crazy) Would this be a good choice versus second battery? And is that worth the price?

A larger High Output alternator is always better than adding a second battery to a weak electrical system. After upgrading the alternator then I would add a second battery

In my experience...whatever gauge power wire u have...u must go the next size up for the ground. This has happened to me plenty of times with explode amps (used to sell them). And also make sure the ground is clean...don't just scrape the paint with a screwdriver, use a Dremel or a grind wheel, or even some sand paper and get it shiny clean. Then slap some Dielectric (tune up) grease on it so it won't corrode nearly as fast. Even better, get under the truck where the ground bolt or screw goes through and paint on a few coats of liquid electric tape.:D:thumbsup: good luck. OH and I almost forgot. DO NOT GO BELOW 4ohms on any Explode amp, I don't care what the box, manual, or even the amp case itself says.:nono:

Or take it the extra mile, run a ground and positive lead from the battery :d

im running true 4 gauge power and ground. I grinded my spot for my ground and welded it to the body. As of right now im running a single type-r for temporary use and it sounds alot clearer hits the heII out of the lows and doesnt hit the highs very well tho.