... or SAS pt.II, or SAS redeux, or axle remix thread. :p:

As some of you know, ive recently got a 94 sport that is the typical fullwidth HP44 with coils/arms, fullwidth 9" type swap. Its currently on radial 36" Iroks.

Right now im lowering it down 4" and extending the wheelbase a couple of inches. It wheels great but its just too tall for what i want to do. Ive got some Bilstein 7100's in the mail and my general idea is to make this more of a dual sport type rig that can get it on the rocks and also be able to blast some fire roads and play on the sandbars here in the summer.

Currently the truck has 4" blocks under the back and a "W" shaped set of hybrid 4 door packs. Im going to take the blocks out, throw on a freshened set of low mile 4door leaves with the overload removed, run anti-wrap pertches with the holes redrilled to move the rear back on the springs 2".

Pic below is why you DONT run shock boots. This was an Arizona rig and never really saw any mud after sureshot40sw bought it-

Pic 1- I tore the junkyard leaves down, hit them with the wire cup and then 80grit flap disc and painted them. Gathered up the good teflon pads from both sets of leaves to have enough for my new set. Standard 4 door pack with no overload. The stock strap that goes around the leaves limits flex as it bands the leaves together, so i grabbed some .25" plate i had laying around and bent these up. There is a chopped piece of a bolt welded through them that fits through the stock hole. I slid them in place and tacked them. NOTICE- its really stupid to weld to a leaf spring but im thinking (hoping) a little tack isnt going to hurt anything. :p:

Pic 2- Here you can see the leaf pin bolt going through the new hole in the ubolt plate. This lines everything up for moving the rear back. Original hole in the middle, some other random hole... well i have no idea what that was for.

Pic 3- Done and on the ground, now i just need to fab up some shock mounts. Holy crap i forgot how there is no room for long shocks under the back of these things. :( Anyhoo, here it is prerunnered with the front still sky high.

Right now im lowering it down 4" and extending the wheelbase a couple of inches.
Nice James. That's going to look soooo much better.

4" blocks... :eek:

[singing]

Mr. Crazy FedEx driver bouncing off the revlimiter guy

You come down the street sideways, in a cloud of smoke, amongst hundreds of barking dogs to deliver your packages. Your main objective is to get from the hub center to our homes in less than 30 seconds. Your truck, overweighted with our goodies, leans through each turn like a one legged man doing powercleans. With a childs bookbag and an owl pinned in your front grill, you put out a vibe that says to all GET THE HELL OUT OF MY WAY.

Id like to raise a toast to you, bringer of the smashed box, because i can now say that ive seen an 86 year old woman jump OVER a mailbox. And thats just cool.

Mr. Crazy FedEx driver bouncing off the revlimiter guy

Sierra Nevada, Chico California

How much total lift did you have before? Just wondering, i'm comming in at less than 5-6 inches running the same combo you have.

WTF?!!! you gots an Exploder???






Jeff - :navajo:

How much total lift did you have before? Just wondering, i'm comming in at less than 5-6 inches running the same combo you have.No idea... it was sagging 4door pack missing the 3rd leaf with 4" blocks... id guess 9" before and will be 5-6" after.

WTF?!!! you gots an Exploder???Ayup, ive had it a while, traded the bronco for it. :)


Im afraid im going to have to re-do the rear inner fenderwells now. Not really what i wanted but... no biggie.

Back to the garage!

Bad ass!

Noob moment... i know better. :rolleyes:

objects that arent bolted down + sitting on bumper + great-grandpa's railroad BFH of doom

MAN DOWN!! MAN DOWN!!1! :mad:

The coil towers were just as difficult as i imagined to get off the frame. Cant get to half the weld with any kind of cutting wheel... if only i had a plasma. Got 'em off anyway... cut one side out with the wheel and then bang it back and forth with the hammer until it tears off.

First pic is the stupid spacer thingy on the driver's side dip in the frame, second pic is me repairing coil tower that i got into with the cutoff wheel. Pardon the crappy flux core welds... maybe Santa will bring me a bottle.

Rear shocks-

Okay, its going to be new years before i can get some 7100's on the rear to match the front. Right now i have the 9" travel ProCraps that came on it. I really want to run some 14" travel 7100's mounted vertical... ive got to re-do the inner fenderwells anyway. I can either mount up the 9" PC's temp, in a 45 degree angle straight back off the rear, or use the 14" PC's off the front and go ahead and build interior shock hoops.

Only thing is, i REALLY dont want shocks coming through the floor. Im trying to keep this as usable as possible and i hate the idea of losing cargo area.

Any ideas? Crazy super sick gnar gnar cantilevers and run the 9" laying flat? DGAF?

Is this live? You're not working on a Tuesday??

Bday is wednesday, so im off. I had 2 vac. days left, so i took them mon-tues to give me a 5 day weekend. :D

and yes, with the wifi and Brandy's laptop this is live

Can you make the hoop as close to the floorboard as possible and still run a decent size shock?

Can you make the hoop as close to the floorboard as possible and still run a decent size shock?Not at all. :( I cut out all the spare tire crossmember junk and stuck a piece of 2" square tube up there for new crossmember reference. I then tied one of the 9" shocks off with 4" uptravel showing and with it 1" away from the floor im at 42 degrees. :(

This is the delima. If im gonna pop for the bling shocks i want all i can get out of them. It doesnt have to be 90 degrees... hell id be happy with 60 or so.

I don't really know the layout of the sports. Can you go forward with them into the cab so they end up close to the rear seat (inside) and don't take up much of the cargo area?

Pics of where your lower mounts are prease.

Hey James, In thanks for the chance :)

EDIT like whoa -- angling the shocks in the rear is no big deal as the rear doesnt have much weight. The stock shock is angled at something like (a guess) 20 degrees or so. Also, to get a larger shock in there, you can try mounting the axle mount lower (a bracket that droops down) but try to keep it as close to the tire as possible to minimize rock rash.

WOW after all the years I have known you, and you let a man go down :eek:



Ok! one of the things I have been thinking about is similar to IZ's idea, of cutting out an access hole in the cargo floor and bringing a hoop through to hang the rear shocks off of, yes you'll loose a little cargo room, but if you stack the sixxers, or in you case the suit cases just right the coolers will clear the hoop, and you'll have just enough room for the chips and dip.


But seriously, if I remember right, isn't the equasion, like a 20deg. angle nets you something like a 30%-40% more travel???




Jeff - :navajo:

I don't really know the layout of the sports. Can you go forward with them into the cab so they end up close to the rear seat (inside) and don't take up much of the cargo area?

Pics of where your lower mounts are prease.Currently, upper mounts are in the stock location... lowers are welded on right at the ubolt area. Now that ive lowered it, with the 9" shocks, id have 1" of uptravel if i bolted them back up. :rolleyes:

Hey James, In thanks for the chance :)

EDIT like whoa -- angling the shocks in the rear is no big deal as the rear doesnt have much weight. The stock shock is angled at something like (a guess) 20 degrees or so. Also, to get a larger shock in there, you can try mounting the axle mount lower (a bracket that droops down) but try to keep it as close to the tire as possible to minimize rock rash.I know the angle isnt that big of a deal, but im trying to build a dualsport rig that can sorta "go fast". I know its never going to be fast, but if ive got to plop down $420 for a pair of decent rear shocks i may as well get them really long and as close to 90 degrees as possible to get the most out of them.

Lowering the bracket off the axle isnt an option... its still gotta do rocks without hanging up.

Mounting the shock outboard of the leaves (which is what i really want to do) is going to require going through the fenderwells. :(

But seriously, if I remember right, isn't the equasion, like a 20deg. angle nets you something like a 30%-40% more travel???

Yes, the more angle on the shock the more travel you get out of it. However, if im going to spend money on bling bling shocks i want to be able to jump this b!tch over 4 kegs at the dunes on Red River.

The shock needs to be close to 90 degrees as possible to get all the valving out of it. THis of course doesnt really make sense because ive been drinking all day. Go to P4x4 main page, scroll down to coilover tech and read it will explain better than i can.

Basically, i dont mind some angle... i just dont want the kicked out to 45 degrees angle. I want somthing more like 60. Or 70. Or whatever is close enough to 90 without cutting thefloor.

Lowering the bracket off the axle isnt an option... its still gotta do rocks without hanging up.Yeah I just noticed that there is a leaf spring preventing you from shooting as close to the tire as possible.

But have you looked at mounting them outboard of the chassis (assuming there is enough room between the tire and the chassis for flex)?

Also, I dunno whether or not the Beilsteins are revalvable but if you mount them at an angle (which I know you said you're not going to do but I just wanted to get this out on the table), you might be able to play with the valve stack to compensate for the added angle (you'd probably end up doing this anyway if the aim is to run fast through the desert). Revalving for the angle will lead to slightly greater heat when you're cycling the thing at high rates (but the shocks wont cycle as far since they are angled) -- but you've got reservoirs (bling) to compensate for the hot hot hot (how you feeling, hot hot hot)
.

might I direct you to Stic-o's fullwidth 44/9" swap that has outer frame rail shocks. also his truck hauls balls in the washes.

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/500/medium/Rear_Shock2.jpg

Dannie- thank yuou, your a live saver... i owe u a beer... going by tape measure i dont see how that is possible but ill recheck tom.

Truck is done other than shock mounts. State trooper budy of mine came over and drove me around town in it wiht no shocks on it. Front or rear. Throttle + brake + throttle + brake = pimp ass hydro simulation that brings in all the b!tches. :p:

sorry 4 crappy pic Start on the shock mounts tommorrrrow.

Neighbors callin we got a block party im done see yall in the mornging!

Also, I dunno whether or not the Beilsteins are revalvable


7100's are revalvable, I was talking to Winter about shocks once and he said that the Bilstein racing shocks (7100's included) are a little difficult to revalve but can be done.

I have a set of 12" 7100's I still need to install in the rear of my truck.

Looking good thus far James:thumbsup:

About to get started on shockmounts here in a min... just a few notes from yesterday..

1- Ballpit full of luck and falling backwards into it- from the before measurements i took the front was shifted 2" to the drivers side. After lowering it down 4" it now sits dead nuts center. I didnt have to do a darn thing to the trackbar.

2- Caster was 0 degrees from the start. Havent measured yet to see what it is now but IIRC i need to be around 4-6 degrees. Somebody correct me if im wrong. Either way, it will be better now than it was.

3- Wheelbase is now 108". Anyone know what it is for the Sport stock? The front was already a tad forward... now its about 1.5" more than it was.

Dannie- thank yuou, your a live saver... i owe u a beer... going by tape measure i dont see how that is possible but ill recheck tom.



I know steve had issues with making those things fit but eventually he made it work. I can't fathom how you wouldn't stuff a tire into it, but i've always ran stock width axles and scrubbed my inner fender wells.

Also, I didn't know how to state this before, but when you lay your shocks at an angle you definitely can get longer travel from a shorter shock but you also loose a lot of the dampening effect. My truck was really bouncy in the rear even with 4 shocks but I kinda found a solution that got this under control:D

Happy Birthday!!

Thanks JT! :)

Danny- im about to start on the rear in a minute. I think im going to rig up a temp mount and run the 9" PC's at a 45 degree angle straight towards the rear. This will get it roadworthy and give me some room to build through the floor hoops as time allows... without having it undrivable.


Front shocks are on... set with 5" uptravel/ 9" down. I used the existing upper mounts and built a stud plate and welded it to the lower part of the radius arm. Everything clears lock to lock. Ill bumpstop it later... just eyeballing it im going to have to get pretty radical with some mounts. :rolleyes:

Second pic is a little better one of it on the ground.

might I direct you to Stic-o's fullwidth 44/9" swap that has outer frame rail shocks. also his truck hauls balls in the washes.

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/500/medium/Rear_Shock2.jpg

These were my original shocks and wheels I started off with after the SAS. 16" BBCS's and 15x8 with 4 1/2"BS. I now have 14" Fox's with a 17x8 with 4" BS. we have moved the bottom mount around a bit too. I actually bent one of my orginal BBCS running this combo though:( That's why I went back down to 14" shocks. What I would like to do is go through the fenderwell and make a mount over the frame, that ties into the cage.


you can actually see here with the 35's and BBCS when I rubbed all the paint off the shock!:eek:

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/500/medium/Shock_side.jpg


Here you can see the current setup. I have maxed out on articulation:( I think I use to get more with factory mounted shocks and 33's. However, you must note, I have no sway bars on the truck at all, and this rides like a caddy on the highway at 65mph, with 37" MTR's;)

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/500/little_rear.JPG

I think the leafs would think my articulation is fine though :p:

so steve, are your shocks your limiting strap :eek:

so steve, are your shocks your limiting strap :eek:

what is this thing "limiting straps" you speak of? :p:



Yeah have been thinking about putting some on for awhile now:rolleyes:

Happy Birthday James!







Jeff - :navajo:

Yeah happy birthday Jamezzzzz!!!!

Its done.

The rear shocks are now at a 50 degree angle straight off the back of the rear end, outside the framerails. No way i could go forward, or "A" across the back of the housing. The upper mounts are actually welded on to the bumper support bar. :D Ill try to get pics later.

Driving it- holy mother of God good shocks are worth the money. I havent had a chance to get into some rough stuff yet, but the 25mph speedbump test was awesome. Hold speed at 20mph and then punch it right before the bump and the front tires just soak it all up like it was an expansion joint. Now i need some for the rear. :p: Since the rear is moved back on the leaf pins 2", its closer to the center of the spring than factory so i should in theory get more travel out of them.

I also need to do some fender opening reshaping... hopefully ill work on this in the next few weeks.

Looking forward to the pics! :cool: Happy b-day too! I'm sending you a <3 package on Saturday.

First pic is the lower rear shockmount. Shock angle is 50 degrees straight back. Going by the tape i could run an 11-12" shock back there, raise the upper mount and get close to 60 degrees without having to go through the floor. Dont know what to do at this point.

Here's a side shot. Upper mount is just a cut down piece of 2" .250 wall sqaure tube i had laying around. There is tube running from the bumper corner to the frame that its welded to.

This also shows how much work i need to do cutting some more fender. :p:

That turned out pretty good James -- the angle is pretty close to the stock angle (+90 degrees rotated).

BTW is that the way that shock is supposed to be ran -- body up? Just wondering cauz I ran my rear shocks like that (which was upside down according to Explorer Pro Comp) and the ride was super harsh.

Mine are body up...:dunno:

Mine are body up...:dunno:So they are no longer like this anymore?
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/500/medium/Rear_Shock2.jpg

So they are no longer like this anymore?
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/500/medium/Rear_Shock2.jpg

;)

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/500/little_rear.JPG

BTW is that the way that shock is supposed to be ran -- body up? Just wondering cauz I ran my rear shocks like that (which was upside down according to Explorer Pro Comp) and the ride was super harsh.These are the fancy RSX or whatever they're called... they have the adjuster knob thingy on the bottom and are supposed to run upsidedown. :) Lowest setting is mushy/crappy, highest setting is harsh/crappy, all other settings are varying degrees of crappy. :p: Hopefully by christmas ill have a matching set of 7100's for the back too. I am a "nice shock" believer now.

http://www.comp4x4.com/xcart/images/P/procomp%20MX-6R%20shock.jpg
http://images.jpmagazine.com/featuredvehicles/154_0708_04_z+1997_jeep_wrangler_tj+pro_comp_coils.jpg

Certain shocks are directional and they loose all effect if you run them the wrong way but a day after you flip them over they're fine but JamesT looks good to go. It's just like laying a fridge on it's side, don't use it for a day...yup...just like that...

Ah thanks -- so thats what they look like.

MX6- yea thats what they are. Had a brain fart for a second. :p: Either way, their time is limited.

Looks great James.

FAT CAT on here did something similar as well with his rear shocks. Looking good.

Bro MX6's are the Robby Gordon shock, they gotta be good.

Bro MX6's are the Robby Gordon shock, they gotta be good.First off Robby Gordon is a #####... there i said it... second LOL, im sure they're really good for "box store" shocks... i dont doubt that... but compared to Fox/King/Billy well its like comparing the 5th grade bully to circa 2006 Chuck Liddell. :p: 3rd, my bill is not flat its curved old school hog hunter style. :D

Bilsteins were not my first choice for decent shocks, but i get a supreme discount through work. Long story short, my 3 choices were Rancho, ProComp, and Bilstein.

Oh, and tomorrow sometime inbetween hunting i plan on doing some testing to get data for bumpstops and straps. There will be a tractor involved. :D

Rear shocks ordered today. :)

I got the thing flexed out last week, but forgot the camera. Rear leaves flex AWESOME. I was shocked. Only thing i can think of is moving the rear back, the housing is closer to the center of the spring and gets more travel. Either way, the ride and flex is sweet. Now i need to do some up/down travel testing to get bumpstops set.

Been working on the front fenders, cutting more out and getting the opening lined up centered with the tire. Lip rolled on the edge for prettyness... its hard to tell from the pics. I hope to start working on the rear this weekend.

The drivers front tire rubbed on the horn so i had to cut it off. :confused:

First off Robby Gordon is a #####... there i said it... second LOL, im sure they're really good for "box store" shocks... i dont doubt that... but compared to Fox/King/Billy well its like comparing the 5th grade bully to circa 2006 Chuck Liddell. :p: 3rd, my bill is not flat its curved old school hog hunter style. :D



LOL, Robby Gordon wouldn't run this shock on his kid's wagon. From what I've heard is that he builds his own race shocks. They can be "rented" for a race for some crazy price like $5,000 and you need to sign a contract stating that you won't split them open to see the magic Robby G. internals.

And I question your flatbiller status with those white fenders. For those white fenders I award you

http://www.flatbiller.com/media/badges/flatbiller-9.gif

What's your technique to roll the lip of the fender?

James looks like we need to have a beer and phone conversation, look forward to your phone ringing sometime soon.



Nice work!


BTW Robbie called me and said your on his shit list, and he wouldn't piss on you if you were on fire. :p:










Jeff - here's a beer to put out the fire, your firend -----> :navajo:

Danny- fenders arent white they are light grey primer... but it was tempting to paint them white and slap on a kottonmouth kings sticker. :p:

stonedjohn- Ive got some pliers i made, just two pieces of plate welded to them at the teeth. Lets say you want a 1" lip... cut fender out 1" smaller than what you want to end up with. Draw a line 1" above, following line with pliers bend just a LEEEETLE bit all the way around. Next pass a little more, next pass a little more, once you get it around 45 degrees hammer it to 90 degrees with your bodyhammer. Once done, go back over it with the hammer and a dolly on the backside to get out hammer marks. I didnt take alot of time on the last step... up close you can still see a few marks but the EB i did last time looked factory.

shinerbockorus jeffasaur- holler anytime. Work 7am-3pm mon-fri, other than that im good. :)


Plans are to start on the rear fenders this weekend between stalking in the woods time. Im getting a bunch of time off around Christmas and plan to start on the cage then.

I started on the rear fenders today-

Didnt get as much done as planned... between working on random kids bicycles and helping neighbor(s) with their stuff im behind in shedyule.

Anyhoo, inside plastic panel thingy got chopped to hell. It will be finished out with some fiberglass once the cage is in. Inner fenders are getting stretched to go with the new rear opening.

Just to keep me from searching... anyone know what the computer looking box thingy with the harness is on the driver's side inner fender? Not the wiper control box but the other one?

Fender openings now prove without a doubt you can run 40's, maybe even 42's, on a sport with 5.5" lift and keep it full body. :D Ill have it finished this weekend and have pics up. Inners are getting stretched and plated.

Quick outside shot as i was cutting/dealing with previous owner fender trimming. Mudtrapping fingers of doom. THANKS PHIL! :p:

its your 4x4 controle modual.

Ah, so throwing it in the trash is not so good idea huh? :p: Im new to 1st gens so bare with me. Why the need for 3 harnesses and 5 million wires to go to some box to control 2 switches that run the transfer case?

Because it has to be in N to control one swith. :)

just go to a manual tcase then there wouldn't be any problems shifting.

Driver's side inner done, i did not bother taking alot of time on the inner fenders because these are getting covered up with some fiberglass, then covered over with a custom panel once the cage is in.

Stretched 8", more to come-

Got any pictures from the outside?

Ill get some today. You mean a sideshot of the truck itself or outside of the inner fenderwell?

The exterior view. How big is your new opening in the fender?

Well, it doesnt come down all the way so there really isnt a good way to measure it... all four are 9.5" from the top of the tread to the center of the opening.

I think it will look alot better once the inner fenders are finished and covered with undercoating.

Crappy pics- unlevel ground so it isnt sitting even but you get the idea

Nice! I really like the opening you made on the rear panels. :thumbsup:

Super sexy! Come do mine.

Im off 2 weeks for christmas no pay, gimmie gas money and ill come out there and we'll do your fenders and my cage all in one session. :D:p:

Can you come do me? Errrr. Do mine :) hehe

Get your arse out for some beer and a visit. I wont pay gas, but I will buy beer. I am off the week of Christmas.

Can you come do me? Errrr. Do mine :) hehe

Get your arse out for some beer and a visit. I wont pay gas, but I will buy beer. I am off the week of Christmas.Holler, we'll plan a weekend. Ill hop on the bike an be there in a jiff. :)

The day of reckoning is at hand.

Awwww look at the cute little Mudstain, with the piggy plate :p:






Jeff - :navajo:

B and C pillar are done. They fit tight as hell... up againts the headliner and both side panels. Now im off to yank the dash and dome light, and drink more beer. :p:

pic doesnt really show but C is bent to lean forward-

You make it look easy!

It aint lol, fcuk going through the dash its going in front of it.

After looking, and looking, and more looking the only thing i can figure is those of you with A pillars through the dash have no heat, no A/C, and run a carb. :p: Either that, or you've got some kind of talent that i dont have.

Anyhoo, ill get better pics tomorrow. The A pillar is NOT AT ALL how i wanted to do it, but itll work.

Looks like a good start on the tube work:thumbsup:
I hope to start my cage pretty soon and i'm determined to go through the dash instead of in front of it. I've already done some preliminary work to see how it will look and going through the vents is the way to go it seems. A little notching of the dash and dimmer switch relocation will give me a straight shot down to the floor.
I know the 1st gens are a bit different, my Ranger has the same dash as the 2nd gen Ex's so it might be a bit easier to do this...I dunno. Good luck with the cage, looking forward to see the finished product.

After looking, and looking, and more looking the only thing i can figure is those of you with A pillars through the dash have no heat, no A/C, and run a carb. :p: Either that, or you've got some kind of talent that i dont have.





This was just ONE of the reasons I was calling yesterday, aside from a few other reasons.

I'll call you again later in the week, I have to meetings today and tomorrow, that are going to keep me tied up.




Jeff - :navajo:

Sorry for the lack of updates... you know how it goes- holidays, family, food, drink, hunting, NOT talking to Jeff... :D:p:

Anyhow, A and B are done with exception of door bars. I cut an "L" shaped slit in the floor and bent it down to lower cage down to get to the top welds... um FYI there is a wiring loom on the floor under the drivers rear seat thats really soft and easy to cut lol. Now my passenger window wont go up, no turn signals, and who knows what else. :o



I am not happy with the way i did the A pillar. Not from a strength standpoint, but from a looks standpoint. I needed a whole bunch of out of plane bends in it that were impossible for the HF kinker i was using. This is the best i could do.

I also suffer from POS camera syndrome... the welds look god aweful in pics and some pics the cage looks crooked (???) It looks good in real life and everything is level.

You can kinda see here- the lower part of the A is angled in and forward for clearance of glovebox door, controls on drivers side, and to give a good tie in spot for the underneath plates that will tie it in to the frame.

At least its coming along! I didn't know you bent the hoops with a kinker!! They came out fawesome.

You off your vacation yet??

wow wow wow I love two doors Kinker work looks great!
I am ordering my JD3 :)

I got a plasma for x mas :)
have chop saw and drill press, jusst need the bender
my 88 dash should be super simple to get behind LOL

Thanks, yea today was first day back at work. Im on the couch now in pain lol. :D

Ill do a HF kinker how-to thread sometime this week. I have seen pics of an 180 degree bend out there and i think i got the technique down. The thing actually works like a friggin champ once you do a few mods.

All of the cage is 1.9", 1.66", 1.33" .140wall HREW. ;)

No new pics, but the front half is done and painted.

Did you know that the wiring harness that runs in front of the rear seat has 27 wires in it? Do you know how long it takes to splice 25 of them back together when you cut through it right at the driver's side wall? :mad: Oh well, its done and now im crippled.

Did you know that the wiring harness that runs in front of the rear seat has 27 wires in it? Do you know how long it takes to splice 25 of them back together when you cut through it right at the driver's side wall? :mad:


Pics? :p: The 2 door is looking good!

Holy crap love the cage! That's some good fab work there.

jamest = my hero

jamest = my heroYour standards = teh suck

:p: :D


Ill try to get some updated pics this weekend- the front half of the cage is painted and i plan to get started on the back half.

Cage is done, other than the rear shockmounts that will go through the inner fenders. Paint is all brush-on rustoleum silver hammertone. I forgot how nice it is to have an older 4x4 that is ugly... drip some paint who cares... get some on the interior DGAF. :p:

Hang with me as my camera got dropped a while back and is jacked up.

As you can tell from this pic, the top "X" or whatever you want to call it has a gap in between tubes... its basically a missed node. This is on purpose, as it will eventually get plate gussets in there. Also ill be building a bolt in X on the b-pillar that will come out for daily use.

Also, i know the bent doorbars arent very strong without support... however that was needed to keep the thing usable for daily driving and be able to flip the front seat forward for rear entry. Its really been a PITA full of compromises.

Wow well that was quick -- looks fantastic!

pimpin.. trade me trucks :D

Nice job James. When are you bringing it to Texas to go wheeling? Shiloh Ridge???

Dunno... plan is to hit Gilmer this weekend after that whenever ya want just holler. :)

wow, good work man. I miss fancy door panels, heat controls and that pretty dash, that thing looks like a lexus vs. what I get into to wheel.

Yea, my first thought was to go through the dash, which would have looked alot better- I still dont like the looks of the Apillar but i can live with it. But, i couldnt figure out how to do it and keep the A/C, heat, etc. I then thought about a custom dash like yours, but besides being my wheeling rig its also my DD when im not on the bike and my wife and i use it for camping trips.

If it werent for all of that, i would have just cut the roof off and had a Dannyboy style dash. :D


and- the rear shock mounts are gonna look pretty pimp (in my mind anyway). I want to have them done before this weekend but its going to be cutting it close.

Dunno... plan is to hit Gilmer this weekend after that whenever ya want just holler. :)Are you wheeling it at Gilmer this weekend? I don't think its in my budget to go to Gilmer. But, maybe in a few weeks a trip to Shiloh Ridge could happen.

Yea ill be there this weekend.

Budget LOL- im going on change found in the couch cushions. We arent registering and it will be Vienna sausages and Milwakee's Beast Lite back at camp. Im broke but i gotta do a shakedown run on this thing since ive redone the suspension... i want to get the bugs worked out before i start pounding on it at Hot Springs and Clayton.

Maybe...maybe with removal of the windshield you could squeeze something in there with the bar running across the top of the dash. I have more pics collected but I know it's said and done. If i could do it all over again I would shoot for this look but it probably would have cost about the same.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q122/DJL337/Cage%20project/SV100408.jpg

Another PITA if i would have went through the dash- the center downbars. I really wanted them as they add alot of lateral strength. Say goodbye to most of the defrost if they went into the stock dash at the windshield.

Oh well... ugly truck, ugly cage (at least at the A pillar) no biggie i just want to wheel it. Its probably gonna wind up OD green anyway so there's really no point in going out of my way to make things look nice. :p:

Danny that's exactly what I really want to do for my cage right there.











Jeff - :navajo:

Well, i just got back from the first trail ride in this rig's current form. It did awesome, held up to several full throttle assaults without drama. Shamed a few big dogs even. :p: After winching several over the exit ledge on Houston Creek i went around and hit it and made it 1st try.

I became everyone's recovery vehicle and burned my winch up. Im hoping its just a solenoid. It stopped suddenly with no warning, no noise, and the motor was warm but not hot. :dunno:

Gas tank is now custom high clearance unit. I cant believe its bashed in that far and not leaking.

Rear springs are W'ed. :rolleyes: I need help... ive gotta figure out a way to squeeze a traction bar in there somewere.

Nice custom springs. Mine are getting close to that now too.

I have traction bars mounted outbound of the frame. First pic sucks, second pic doesn't show the front mount, sorry I don't have better photos.

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/2/IMGA0089.JPG

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44418&stc=1&d=1198727516

Nice custom springs. Mine are getting close to that now too.One friggin' trip. :rolleyes: I figured surely id get a few runs out of them... my right foot gets retarded sometimes.

One of these days id like to replace them with Nationals/Deavers/whatever.

Im going to figure out a way to get the typical heim jointed traction bar in there, its just going to be a PITA.


On the plus side, i got to do a little high speed testing and now i really REALLY want to get the rear shocks on. I scooted across some washes in the main area lot at about 45mph and the front just floated perfect. The rear was major pogo action though. :p: Getting the rear shocks on and some airbumps will make this thing nice.

Where are the pics?

Where are the pics?sureshot40sw has them. I was too busy jumping stuff and winching/straping everyone else to take pics. :p: When he gets around to emailing them ill post them up.

I just realized you don't have the overload in. Maybe that's the difference, because I do. Mine are still turning into the "W" but I'm guessing the overload is slowing down the process.

I'll either be doing a 3 or 4 link sometime.

I'll either be doing a 3 or 4 link sometime.

and I'll be filling my truck full of hookers and racing the Baja 1,000

the only difference is that I may actually do this in this decade.

Yea, no overload. The thing is, if they were in i would have hung them up alot this weekend. The front leading edge of bottom leaf on both sides is a slider lol.

Ive considered linking it, but with moving the tank and the $$$ it would turn into another jackstand rider. Im going to make due for now i guess.

and I'll be filling my truck full of hookers and racing the Baja 1,000

the only difference is that I may actually do this in this decade.
I'm going to buy a house (next two months probably), SAS the van and convert it to 4wd, cut the top off the explorer and cage it and then I'll link the rear... I don't have the casheesh to buy and sell 30k boats and trucks to pay for my shiz. :p: :D

Yea, no overload. The thing is, if they were in i would have hung them up alot this weekend. The front leading edge of bottom leaf on both sides is a slider lol.

Ive considered linking it, but with moving the tank and the $$$ it would turn into another jackstand rider. Im going to make due for now i guess.
3 link with the links outside the frame and a panhard. Winter figured it was possible with no need to move anything. That's probably what I'll be doing.

My own mix of OD from local paint shop- "jamest mouth for war green" :D :salute:

All i have left to do is the front fenders, hood, and rear hatch.

i like the od brown better (desert storm). this is cool though :D

All i have left to do is the hood and front fenders. Its supposed to rain all week so ill have pics this weekend. :)

wife- "Well, you proved me wrong."

me- "What do you mean honey?"

wife- "I said a while back that i didnt think you could make that thing any uglier. [laughing]

Ouu green, perfect :)

Yup, its ugly alright. I dig it. :D

Hehe, looks nice!. You and Burns need to start the Green Explorer Coalition.

That came out super sick. I like it. Your wife is crazy. :D

I like it! So you painted all of the truck with that foam roller? I assume you taped off trim and windows and what not?

Yea, all of it was done with the roller except a few tight areas i did with a brush. :p: 3 coats... it took longer to sand and mask it than it did to paint it.

:bounce::bounce::bounce:

http://demon4x4.com/forum/nfphpbb/images/smiles/pint.gif

Love it, looks sick!!

Your wife is nuts. OD is a thing of beauty

i like it.. i painted mine with a roller too. what kind of paint did you use?

Its just paint supply house "duck boat" paint with a little extra green in it. I think it was Coronado brand.

Rebuilding the front bumper-

Ignore the gap at the top of the skidplate... its tacked in place just so i can get an eyeball on what's going on- trying to make a decent taper.

Also ignore the writing... im marking cuts and ive also got a couple of PBB guys over here helping me as you can see. :rolleyes:

IS that your SpeedGlass?

Yes and he needs a new lens for it.

Yes to the first, and most definately HELL YES to the second (i keep forgeting to order one) :p:

Will you be dimpling the speed holes cause that would look hawt...

Will you be dimpling the speed holes cause that would look hawt...No, but it will have "redneck dimples" aka a short piece of tube welded in the hole and then ground down. :D

1- I dont have any dimple dies

2- Can you dimple 3/16" ?? For whatever reason i thought 1/8" was the limit

3- Redneck dimples are stronger AND uglier. Keeping with a theme here.

Nothing to update really, still working on the skidplate. Got the taper cut and the bottom end bent.

First pic is the backside of the "redneck dimples" or whatever you want to call 'em. Second pic is front side, which will be ground down smooth.

Done. Now i can hopefully start on the shockmounts.

With the "redneck dimples" you could essentially turn a couple of them into a CAI. Hook up some hose from them to the airbox... :p: :D

I'm really liking the way this thing is looking. :thumbsup:

I'm really liking the way this thing is looking. :thumbsup:Thanks man, i try. :D I take things from the desert world and apply them to my limited farmboy fab skills.

Thanks man, i try. :D I take the desert and apply them farm fab skills.


http://farm1.static.flickr.com/8/9785671_a0f1ca1ab8.jpg



Jeff - :navajo:

Hahaha :D :p:

Nothing new to report, its been monsoon season here so i havent been able to get much done. Dad just got a Miller bobcat 225 so ive been playing with that. Been a LONG time since ive messed with stick.

Just got home from Katemcy Texas. Beat on the thing HARD. I dont know how i didnt get much body damage other than a mirror. The rocker tubes are bent up bad, cant open the passenger side door. Gas tank is now down to maybe 10 gallon capacity but still isnt leaking lol.

The front Lockrite blew up and i may have a bent inner C or front axlehousing. Ive got some wicked negative camber on the driver's side now.

Couple of pics and a quick vid-

http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w275/sureshot40sw/Katemcy%20Rock%202009/?action=view&current=100_1763.flv

http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w275/sureshot40sw/Katemcy%20Rock%202009/ <-- album

How come you didn't post this vid?? :p:

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w275/sureshot40sw/Katemcy%20Rock%202009/th_100_1777.jpg (http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w275/sureshot40sw/Katemcy%20Rock%202009/?action=view&current=100_1777.flv)

I dont think he had it uploaded yet. :p:

Im still tired... i think im going to sleep for the next couple of days. We all had an awesome time.

I kept blowing a master fuse on the very first obstacle sat. morning and it was killing the engine. After a few minutes we found part of the wiring harness rubing on the shock tower. :rolleyes:

Unrelated- on the trip home the tow rig would lose the clutch pedal after a couple of hours of driving. Im guessing the fluid was old and was boiling, because after letting it sit for 5 minutes or so the clutch would come back. Made for interesting stops trying to get fuel and use the bathroom.

Truck turned out great! But James you almost rolled it on the second video you big dope :)

Nah, not even close. :p: I was runnin' with the big dogs so most times i took the worse line... just to show them they wasted their money on 44's. :D I gotta admit im swollen with pride being able to keep up with them and at times make it in one try while a few of them had to hit some spots 3-4 times. I got a ton of compliments and quite a few shocked looks this weekend. That is, until i blew the front lol.

James T just doesn't do 12oz curls for exercise, he also does push ups occasionally...

That's kick ass James, but damn you were so close, I'm suprised you didn't stop by for some beerz! :(








Jeff - :navajo:

I would have liked to, but when we left there we left ready to go home. I think Phil cracked his heel and we were all half dead. I went home with the turbo glowing and blowing soot the whole way. ;) :D

Checked the X out yesterday afternoon... broke 2 front shafts and the locker pins. I guess i broke one side first and didnt notice it. :dunno:

Checked the X out yesterday afternoon... broke 2 front shafts and the locker pins. I guess i broke one side first and didnt notice it. :dunno:

Which shafts? Inners, outers?

Passenger outer, driver's inner.

I think this time im going to save up and go with some alloys/CTMs.

Passenger outer, driver's inner.

I think this time im going to save up and go with some alloys/CTMs.

What brand are you thinking of going with? I am looking at upgrading but havnt decided which brand to go with.

I havent really thought about it- the rig had alloy usa's in it for a while and they seem to have worked out great, but i think they went out of business.

Alloy USA is now Ten Factory, not sure on the warranty situation though if you ever break an Alloy USA shaft.

FWIW, i've been running Superior inners/outters with Longfield joints for about 4 yrs. now and i've been nothing but happy with them. Just plan on greasing your joints about every other run with either CTM's or Longfields.

Rear locker is toast. :(

Ive got one wheel drive. Which would explain why it was driving weird. Get on the throttle it darts to the right, lift out of the throttle it goes left.

I just pulled both rear shafts and they're good. Only driver's wheel will pull. In park on jackstands the passenger will freespin like its in neutral. Im broke as all hell so i think the rear is getting a full spool. I would love to be able to stick in a nodular 3rd but money is going to be super tight until end of summer when Brandy starts her new job.



5 trips to Hot Springs and not a single break- one trip to Krocks and i break EVERYTHING. I cant do anything at this point but laugh.

Looks great James.

Looks great James.Thanks man. :thumbsup:


Few more pics of K-rocks... this is the spot i scattered the front end. First pic you can see us in the background, there is another crack over there we were trying to crawl.

Orange jeep on 44's went first and side- flopped, i went second and broke everything and had to be winched off of a VW sized rock i was turtled on. :p:

Not much to update, ups man came a while ago...

:D

James, that stuff is sooo "strange". :thumbsup:

Nice bling!

Did you get new axle shafts/u-joints for the front yet?

Yea, i found a set of Superiors/CTM's used for pretty cheap. Just waiting on them to get here. :)

I picked up another 9" from the salvage yard, and plan to use that housing as my buildup. It will get shaved and trussed, the Strange 3rd/daytona pinion support and my current gears on the new spool. I hope the lockright carnage is just a broken pin and i can fix it. If so, itll be up for sale.

UPS man came again- im just about done buying stuff and ready to start working. ;)

FWIW- I basically stole this setup. NIB Superiors, NIB CTM's... three of 'em, so i can sell one on ebay and recoup some $$$... all for $600 shipped.

Nice! I've got Superiors with Longfield joints and it's been bulletproof so far:cool:

Ive been working on new radius arms all week since my current ones are bent.

These will be direct replacements for what im running now, but hopefully a bit stronger. To start with, im using 2" .250 wall square tube turned at an angle and welded to a short piece of stock radius arm.

The joint is a weld on blue torch fab, no need for a threaded end as i already have a length example to build off of. I tacked the tube to the radius arm heads, and then tacked the joint to the tube, then carried it all down to my dad's and burned it in with the miller bobcat. Ive been practicing with the stick... but they're still pretty ugly :p:

Im running a truss down the length of the bottom... the reason for this is twofold. One, it adds quite a bit of strength and two it gives the arm a flat bottom that will slide over rocks easier.

The truss is a piece of 1.5" .120 wall cut in half. Even though its only 1/8", it will be plenty strong. It rests up against the edge of the 2", and i cut grooves in it and welded it down the bottom.

Not quite done yet but you get the idea-

Lookin' good man!

Arms are done and on, now building shock hoops for the front.

This is a PITA. No problems building the hoops, the main issue is how tight the areas they need to mount are... besides removing the 4wheel ABS pump and replumbing the brakes there are also about 20 different wiring harness plugs that need to go somewere else.

Hindsight is 20/20, but instead of a 14" shock up next to the coil, i should have went with a stiffer 10-12" shock and moved it back on the arm some. It wouldnt have been ideal, but it would have been alot easier. My main issue is the fact that my shocks are really long and need to mount up top in a spot that is what can only be described as an over-engineered Ford cluster#$%&.

Wish me luck. :p:

They're on and done, next comes the brakeline replumbing and moving a few harnesses around.

Hindsight = 20/20... it would have been alot easier to tack everything together and weld it all up off the truck, then weld the frame mounts on when its all done.

Looks good, James!

Hoops gotta have some re-work done. When adding the middle brace tube i was not thinking of the reservoir hose which hits it and doesnt allow the shocks to bolt up. I spent alot of time cutting a piece of tube in half, grinding it all to fit so as to have a relief notch, etc. and that wasnt enough. The center bar down to the coil tower has to go forward a few inches. No biggie. :p:

Welcome to my life!

Brakes are plumbed and bled.

If you want to get rid of the 4wheel ABS pump, this is the easiest way-

You will need 3 male ends for 3/16" brake line, a female T for those ends, and your standard brake line cutting and flaring tools. The thread size doesnt matter so long as its all for 3/16" line, and your fitting threads match the T block. Your Explorer has a mixture of 12mm and 10mm fittings on standard 3/16" line.

The factory rear brake line that runs to the ABS pump gets bent upward and screws right into the brake master cylinder. Bam, you're done with the rear.

The front is where your new ends and the T block come in. Mount the T block on the frame around were the ABS pump used to be. Us the factory master cylinder-to-ABS pump line to go to the T. Cut the end off the bottom of that line and add your new standard fitting, and reflare it. Your other stock front brake lines (the ones that run from the frame to the drop lines to the caliper) will get the same treatment. Just cut the ends off, and the new ends and flare it.

I can tell you now if you can find a metric brake T block that is for 12mm threads you dont have to change the ends. I could not find such animal... not even online.

Just putting this out there incase some of you want to get rid of the 4wheel ABS pump- i couldnt really find alot of info on it. Thanx section525 for your help.

:)

Welcome to my life!Haha, what really sucks is i wasted an entire day trying to make them work. I worked my ass off on making that notch and it looked pimp- but it didnt work either. :p: I already had them painted and everything!

Well, i blew the stock 9" carrier apart last weekend. Somehow the lockright is still alive, but the edges of the teeth are pretty worn. It is time to build the new 3rd and be done with it all. Now i shouldnt have any more worries with the rear end.

Started on the rear shockmounts.

The shocks are outboarded right behind the housing, just slightly leaned back and in (about 80 degrees back and 85 degrees in) and the mounts come through the fenderwells.

The really clean tube going from cage to mount is 1.75" 3/16" wall DOM i found in the scrap metal bin at work. It will be gusseted to the cage along with a crossbar that will go over the spare. Overkill for non-weight bearing shocks, but the crossover bar along with the rear hatch will hold the spare in place without actually bolting it down. Flip the hatch up and the spare will slide in and out

Thats beef James! Beef!! Cant wait to see the rest of the tooobs.

Good work man. I dig those hoops. I really want to do that with my brakes and my buddys bronco's brakes. Thanks for posting up!

Can you post some additional pictures of your radius arms? I'm thinking about building a set for myself.

Can you post some additional pictures of your radius arms? I'm thinking about building a set for myself.
Ill get some later this evening.

Mounts are coming together slowly but surely. I hope to have it all done by tonight.

Gusset is 3/16" plate with more redneck speedholes- these should also make a nifty tie down point for gear

Ran out of bolts or i would've mounted the shocks.

The little inner gusset with the holes in it is .25", it would have been alot stronger had i ran it down to the bottom of the mount but i needed the room for spare tire and gear.

Either way, i think its kinda overkill but it'll do. :D Fits an irok with plenty of room leftover... could fit a 38.5x14.50 SX in there if i cut the plastic on the back hatch but im not ever going bigger than a 37" anyway.

For now the spare will be held with ratchet straps... mount will come later

That looks real good, nice work!

Double bling! I like it a lot. :cool:

A couple of pics for zainyd-

Understand, running the square tube "daimond style" instead of "flat" its actually weaker... however the truss on the bottom more than makes up for the difference. It also gives a nice flat surface to slide over rocks. If you're not gonna do the truss, then turn the tube flat.

Looking back on it, i wish i would have ran a threaded in joint instead of weld on. I warped the ever loving shit out of the threads in the joint and had to grind them down and weld in the caps, which means these wont be rebuildable. :rolleyes:

You can see tire marks on the sides of the arm in the pics- yea i need to set my steering stops. :p:

Looks great James.

Looks great James.Thanks homey, its been alot of work but in the end it doesnt really look like ive done much. :D

Man, the valving and mounting position on the rear shocks is dead on perfect. It drives soooo awesome. Body roll is virtually gone... the spool in the back is barely more noticable than the lockright was. I hit some washed out fireroads yesterday before the rains came and it will no doubt haul ass in the rough stuff. I cant wait to get airbumps on it.

Articulated at full stuff the tire is gonna be damn close to the shock but it shouldnt hit.

Here's a finished pic of the front hoops- the center support brace that runs to the coil tower had to be moved forward to clear the hose on the shocks.

Put some linear rate coils on it like the BCs on it and it will really drive nice!