I need help... My wife and I need to move our home office into the basement. We need to do something about the desks we're using currently, as they're not going to work very well in the new space.


Here are the parameters I have to work with:
-I have an 11' section of a 15' long wall in a space that's roughly 15 x 12 available.
-It can be t-shaped, u-shaped, two L-shaped, or just plain straight up against the wall... Shape is irrelevant, but I need leg room while surfing.
-My desk chair needs to fit underneath it. (needs to be at least 29" high to clear the arms)
-We need space for two computers, two monitors each (tube-type). A comfortable working distance puts the front of the desk roughly 36" out away from any wall.

I'm not afraid to try building something, I just don't know where to get started or how to design something useful... I'm looking into some used office furniture on Craigslist and other local shops that sell used office equipment, but so far, everything I've seen is either waaay out of our price range, or just plain junk.

Any suggestions, gang?

-Joe

Did you look at what they have in Staples? You might get some ideas just from the advertisements.

Yeah, Staples, Office Max, Office Depot... lots of ideas, no practical (or budget-minded) answers.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/woodworking/1273336.html

I built myself a desk for my computer / media work area... I was going to buy something but the prices are astronomical and they're all made out of chipboard. So instead I went to Home Depot and got busy... Total construction time: Two Days (this is also why its a bit rougher than I would have liked.. but it is square and strong)

My materials are 2x4's, 1/2 plywood, masonite, and 3in and 1 5/8 in deck-mate screws. I used the cheap, construction grade types, but you could easily use cabinet grade plywood and make up some edge banding or the like to cover the sides. Total cost was somewhere around $100, not including the rackmount hardware.

The end pieces are squares made of mitered 2x4 squares, with 2x4 posts, and plywood tops. (these make good stand-alone tables too) I set up a stop on the miter saw and cut all the pieces at one time so they are all the same size. You could put those adjustable shelf brackets on the posts and make as many shelves as you want.

The center section is a rectangle of 2x4's underneath with some extras running front to back where the brackets attach. The brackets themselves are just heavy-duty shelf brackets, attached with bolts to the sides of the end sections.

It's brutally simple, easy to build, and can be made to fit any space you want.

http://uploads.screenshot-program.com/upl9952888547.jpg

Like the concept though... What did you use for that center section desktop itself? Is that the masonite?

The center is made from 2x4 rectangular frame (laying flat, with mitered corners, and and extra 2x4 added where needed to attach the brackets) and 1/2 plywood top.

I used the masonite (the brown stuff, its only like 1/8 thick) basically as a covering to give me something smoother to put my arms on when typing etc, and then made a thin strip and attached it to the front to make it look better. It's also replaceable if I spill something on it or whatever.

And yes, I have a copy of Thriller up there...

I think I found my inspiration:

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/everythingofficefurniture_2025_98609556

Of course, we'd only make the front half, probably make it in two sections so it can slide away from the wall easier if necessary, and make the desk portions a little larger.

Now, if I just knew someone with some carpentry skills.... :)

I think I can manage to use the layout, but as for actually building something like that, I don't have a prayer! Materials-wise, I'd likely be better-off saving the $1600 for it, because I'm sure that by the time I get done building it, it'll be industrial strength, weigh 1800 lbs, and double as a bomb shelter.

My wife has a friend whose husband is a cabinet-maker... they owe us a coupld favors... might be time to call them in!

-Joe

If you make a desk like that, I'm going to sit at the opposing end and just stare at you while you work -- for no reason what so ever.

Looks like its just four identical units pushed together in the middle... Shouldn't be too hard to build if you've got a decently equipped woodshop at your disposal, but figuring out some of the parts without any measurements might be fun.

It looks like 3 main parts to it.. the end section with the file drawers, the top with legs on it, and the back bookcase type part. I would build the file cabinet section first, then use it to help measure and make a single-piece top (that sits on top of the cabinet like how kitchen counters sit on the base cabinets), then build the legs onto it. Finally just make up the shelves to fit whatever size the top is.

I figured out when building mine its best to stick with sizes that make efficient use of standard lumber, just make sure you think it through so that one part doesn't end up needing weird sizes of wood.

I got my home office desk off the curb so I will be no help whatsoever. I don't mind it being junk.

http://uploads.screenshot-program.com/upl9952888547.jpg


GREAT album. I'm being completely serious as well.

check this out, i love it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rObSwvfQcjg

As for the desk, depending on what your budget is, you can either buy one, or build one completely customized to what you have. When I lived with my Mother, I had a desktop, laptop, ps2, xbox, gamecube, vcr, and 5.1 system, but my tv was a monitor/tv flatpanel, so i custom built something that worked with everything. even notched the wood for the cord to keep it clean.

also think about what you might have later on to plan ahead.

also think about what you might have later on to plan ahead.

A built-in garage to park his Explorer in for easy access from his desk?

GREAT album. I'm being completely serious as well.

check this out, i love it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rObSwvfQcjg


Yes its one of the best albums ever, not just in the writing and performance but also the way it is mixed. I can't say I'm a huge fan of the metal version though...

A built-in garage to park his Explorer in for easy access from his desk?

I WISH!! If it was up to me, I'd have an office that was 60 x 60, with a desk in one corner running all the diagnostic software I need, and the service manuals installed, a floor hoist and industrial roots type compressor, a 65" flat-screen on a flip-down bracket on the ceiling (so I don't have to get up off the creeper to see the game).... (sigh) maybe in my next life. LOL!

Found some more inspiration over the weekend... we visited an Office Supply Surplus store Saturday and saw this:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3222/3036039581_5c6e13ce4b.jpg

This pic I tried to capture an image of the stanchion used to keep the table flat... It was 1/4" rod with a few stand-offs and a turnbuckle to keep the flat table portion from sagging with weight on the desk:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3143/3038554362_790e907935.jpg

Here's the desk with the matching desk and hutch:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3230/3036911624_349cbaac00.jpg

The desk seemed very easy to build... it used some engineered fasteners with some nice covers, had cord pass-thrus and cord chases underneath the desk too... Should be a nice, clean, clutter-free way of building it. I think I can make mirror images of each other using oak plywood, stain and lacquer them, and assemble the pieces in the basement. We'll probably use shelves on the wall from Ikea, so we'll likely forego the hutch with the desk. I think it'll work well like that...

Any suggestions?

If you have a sketch of something you would like with rough dimensions I can do you a quick free 3d modeled drawing of it and send it to you or post it on here. I'm a architectural designer and do stuff like that for a living. I have a company that produces custom home theaters. Check out my website @ wlldesigns.com

If you have a sketch of something you would like with rough dimensions I can do you a quick free 3d modeled drawing of it and send it to you or post it on here. I'm a architectural designer and do stuff like that for a living. I have a company that produces custom home theaters. Check out my website @ wlldesigns.com

Awesome! If you're offering, I'll take you up on that...

The total overall length for the two of them can't be any longer than 11'-6", the height to the under-side of the desktop needs to be... ??? Brain fart ( I forget... I'll need to measure my desk chair when I get home). I was planning to let the back edges of the top and two ends go all the way to the wall, but keep the back panel in about 4-6" to provide a 'cavity' against the wall for the power cords, network cables, et. al. I'm not sure what the width of the desk is, but I'll be heading back up there later this week and can check... I might just go with 4' at one end tapering to 3' at the other end... Probably bigger than I need, but I can always rip them down if needed.

As far as I can guesstimate, I'm looking at three 4x8 sheets of whatever type of material I use... We're tentatively looking at single-faced oak plywood for the top, and maybe for the sides too... If we cheap out, we'll probably use particle board for the top covered with formica, and OSB or melamine for the sides... Just gotta see what's available first. :)

-Joe

No problem. Just email me a sketch with rough dimensions and I'll draw something up so you can see what it would look like. bodiea@bellsouth.net

If we cheap out, we'll probably use particle board for the top covered with formica.
-Joe

I would think that construction grade plywood would be better than particle board, and the price difference is not a big deal. I think Particle board will sag over time...

So far looks like its going to be a nice project when its done.

I've noticed that particle board weighs more than regular wood. You could get pine wood planks 24" X 60" in size. They have a smooth finish which is easy to stain, and is easier to transport since it's smaller. Plywood is more durable as far as warping is a concern, but the type which is finished on both sides is pretty expensive.

I've noticed that particle board weighs more than regular wood. You could get pine wood planks 24" X 60" in size. They have a smooth finish which is easy to stain, and is easier to transport since it's smaller. Plywood is more durable as far as warping is a concern, but the type which is finished on both sides is pretty expensive.

The also sell Plywood that's only finish-grade on one side... That's likely what I'm going to go with... The problem with using planks is that I'd need to use biscuits where they meet or two separate stanchions underneath it... Probably not going to happen. I can make the stanchion hardware at work without too much difficulty, but putting two on each is likely a bigger pain than it's worth. I've figured I can get all the wood I need from six 4x8 sheets of whatever we use...

I'll also need to finish the edges nice, or put some nice miters on them... still searching for the metal hardware to fasten the sides together...

-Joe

WWW.Natman.Com sells many types of metal brackets. Local hardware stores, and places like Home Depot sell this brand.

You could use corner brackets like this to connect the top with the sides:
http://www.romark.co.uk/webimages/SH028.jpg
These brackets are good forthe corners:
http://img.alibaba.com/photo/51539821/Angle_Brackets_Bed_hinge.jpg

What I'm looking for to attach the corners are the connectors like you get with any Ikea or Sauder piece of furniture... Where the stud threads into a hole, and the hidden 'nut' on the other side draws it in tight... Similar to these:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=148415&FamilyID=20366

but something a little heavier-duty maybe... those were half plastic...

edit: Found some at Rockler too...

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=348
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10517
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2334

I wonder if they make a jig for those too... Might have to make that one myself...

You should use dowels in addition to those pull style corner braces.

The mechanical connectors your referring to are called minifixes. They use a 15mm diameter hole for the "Cam" and a 5mm pilot hole to drill the "pin into. You can get them at Home Depot normally around the hardware Isles toward the front of the isle where the have the shelf pins, etc. Depending on how many you need. Hafele sells them to us but I don't know if you can buy them directly. Also another great reference for any kind of hardware, cabinet stuff, Sheet goods, Metal extrusions, and list goes on and on is Outwater Plastics. You can request their catalog and it's probably about 500 pages of anything under the sun. As for your edges, you can also get iron on wood edge tape at depot as well, or from outwater.