This truck will be FOR SALE when I am finished, if you are in the denver area and are interested let me know!!

This is a 98 XLT V8 AWD with 96K miles, maroon
I found the truck on craigslist about 6 months ago, the kid drove it with no oil until the engine seized
I was able to get it started and running, bad knock in the engine

truck has 96K miles, a few paint scratches, a bent up front bumper, loose tailgate glass and no radio display. Other then that this is one CLEAN CLEAN 98:
I bargained with the guy and got a good deal on this truck, more then I wanted to spend, but I couldnt come home without it.
I tightened the trucks drain plug (finger tight), added two quarts of oil, got it started with my jumper box and drove it 30 miles to home! It drove GREAT, so smooth! not like my noisy lifted 96 LOL
engine knock got progressively worse on the way home, but it did run well all 30 miles

I shut it down and parked it
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/98before.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/98beforebay.jpg

I have finally got her in the garage over the last two weeks and started swapping engines

I found a 1999 Explorer 5.0L V8 in town with 93K miles for $350 :) missing pass side exhaust manifold, fan/clutch bent, oil filter fubar from accident, also bent drivers side engine mount plate and bolts! wow..... hard hit

So I wont bore you with the details of pulling the 99 engine, except for these facts:
you can remove the V8 without dropping the exhaust down pipes
You must remove the center console and carpet to access pass side and top bellhousing bolts, also the trans dipstick bolt

98 XLT missing an engine, engine bay masked off and cleaned with Gunk Foamy engine brite and a power wash:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/engineoutfront.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/engineoutside.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/engineoutclean.jpg

Now with the 98 and 99 engines side by side I can see the changes (most of which I was already aware of)

the 98 uses a return style fuel rail, the 99 is returnless, so I put the 98 rail on the 99 engine
98 (yellow injectors):
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/98fuelrail.jpg

99 (white injectors):
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/99fuelrail.jpg

carefully CLEAN the lower intake around all 8 injectors (compressed air and wire brush)
remove the 4 fuel rail retaining screws
GENTLY pull all 4 injectors out on each side, keeping them seated in the fuel rail
CLEAN the injector O rings and lube them with ATF/vaseline

press the new injectors into the lower intake and install retaining bolts

Next I can see other differences:
the 98 still uses the lower radiator hose oil cooler / oil filter mount, the 99 does not

99 oil filter:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/99oilfilter.jpg

I chose to use the 99 style oil filter mount, so I had to purchase a 99 lower radiator hose

The oil pressure sensor and cam position sensor are also different on the 99 engine, you can see in the above picture the 99 oil pressure sensor has two pins, in 98 it is still one wire

99 also has a different stamped steel oil pan with oil level sensor, the 98 uses a cast pan with no sensor = LOL @ Ford

99 engine cam sensor = two wires, 98 = 3 wires
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/99enginefront.jpg

Here is the 99 engine with the new sensors and 98 fuel rail, all cleaned up and ready to go in:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/99engineready1.jpg
(notice 1 wire oil press sensor)

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/99engineready2.jpg

Now the fun part, stabbing!
Form my experience here I know that if I drop the engine into the truck WITHOUT the side mount engine plates I can EASILY aling it to teh transmission bellhousing and torque converter

THEN you bolt the engine and trans together, making sure to align the flywheel/converter
Now finally after they are stabbed you can raise the engine back up and install the engine mount plates and drop the new 5.0L onto the engine mounts

That is as far as I got yesterday, I cannot bring myself to install a greasy engine LOL even when its not my truck! I spent ALOT of time yesterday prepping this sucker to go in, scrubbing grease and dirt and I painted the upper intake BRIGHT RED

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/enginestab.jpg

Somebodyin the Denver area is going to get a wicked ass V8 explorer with low miles! I want to keep this truck, but I would have to sell my 96 and thats not gonna happen!

Some of the new parts:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/parts.jpg

oil & filter
New Autolite double plat plugs
New Purolatorair filter
new Dacron transmission filter and 12 quarts of Mercon V
new exhaust manifold gaskets
new upper intake gasket
new 195 thermo and gasket
new 99 lower radiator hose
new fuel filter
new coolant

Also getting a brand new chrome front bumper and a full detail before sale

Next: drain converter and drop trans pan, install new trans filter, engine exhaust manifolds (going to use the 99 style cast manifolds), new plugs, all wiring and plumbing in engine bay

ince the engine is in and running I will be fixing the radio display, the rear hatch glass hinge, detailing the truck including flat black for the body trim/pillars
Man I hate to sell this truck, 98 V8 with 96K miles? few scratches and no dents, completely gone through by yours truly!! = hard to part with these things

and the Bronco II again gets pushed to the side and neglected.

LOL yeah I gotta get this sucker out of the shop, then the FJ goes in for lockers and then the 96 comes in for paint

then FINALLY the 88 gets a body diet :) I am driving the 96 and the 88 though, every day :)

profit from this truck = my BII steel

profit LOL more like $5 an hour! I do it for the love of the hobby not for the $$$$$

It will make a nice daily driver for someone. Its a good thing they redesigned the filter mount...

I actually prefer the 96 style filter mount, you get a free oil cooler!
Part of the reason I went with the 99 style for this 98 is because I am not going to keep it, less maintenence for the new owner and I get a backup assembly for my 96 or 88 trucks :)

Working on it more this evening

Almost ready to fire it up

I had a fun issue with the new engine, I got it stabbed to the transmission and two of the converter bolts installed when........I couldnt turn the engine over more then 60 degrees...ut oh

spent about 3 hours tearing ligaments in my arms trying to get the engine to turn past this frozen point, to no avail

I then pulled the engine back out for testing

this is my new best friend:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/superwrench.jpg

this sucker allows me to get the top 4 bellhousing bolts and the stupid dipstick retainer bolt by myself from the top of the engine...... I had the engine out of the truck in seriously 20 minutes

I then put the engine on a stand and began to search for the issue, no interference with the flexplate/dust shield. I could watch all 8 pistons move up and down no issue. I called the junk yard I bought this 99 engine from and he knew exactly who I was and what engine I had. He suggested the engine ran perfect when they pulled it and that is sat for a while = rust ring stopping a piston. He was also checking his yard to find me another 5.0L. I put a 3' cheater pipe on the crankshaft pulley and moved the engine just to teh point where it was freezing up, I gave it one more yank and BLAMO it rotates!! I turned the engine over about 100 times by hand... smooth as butter!

So I began putting the engine back in the truck, thanks to the wrench above and a few little tricks I have picked up I had it stabbed and bolted to the trans in about an hour (working by myself here)

I began by installing the starter and trans scatter shield:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/starter.jpg

starter in:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/starterin.jpg

VERY easy to get the starter in while the engine/trans is still sitting low on the hoist

Moving back to the top/ back of the engine I installed the trans dipstick tube and routed the engine wiring harness, through the fuel rail, along the valve covers, hooking up the injectors, coolant temp sensors, oil pressure sensor, and crank pos sensor:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/enginewire.jpg

Now I install the coolant hose manifold, this metal manifold provides the heater hoses for the heater core, and the hot water bypass for the upper intake, as well as another coolant temp sensor:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/coolantmanifold.jpg

Now is the time to install this sucker! access is impossible later, dont forget the hold down nut you cant get to it later

under the front of the engine its time to bolt up the starter cables and engine ground wire, hung from metal hooks:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/groundstrap.jpg

So now I am ready to raise the engine again and bolt up the engine plates, then drop her on the engine mounts.
I loosened the transmission mount bolts (2ea), and raised the engine about 6-8" using a jack and block of wood under the oil pan.
Then from under the truck and around the tires I can install the engine mount plates. They bolt to the block using 4 double suded studs, pointing up into the block.
Finally I lowered the engine and wiggled it (pry bar) until it dropped onto the mounts.
Here is how I access the engine mount bolts, so easy with no manifolds:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/engineplate.jpg

Now to install the camshaft position sensor, I brought cylinder #1 to TDC, installed my cam alignment tool and dropped it into the block:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/camsensor.jpg
Note the arrow points almost directly forward and you can see the dirt marks on the sensor body match up to the old hold down bolt location.

Now to install new plugs and the thermostat & housing:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/thermoplugs.jpg

thermostat installed, follow directions on the packet! LOL spring goes towards engine, pointy side towards radiator, no weep hole on 5.0L thermostats. Also proper ay to route hoses and clamps:
No silicoln or O ring here, just a gasket and two bolts, CLEAN both mounting surfaces!
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/thermoin.jpg

(you can see the cam sensor bolted down and wired)

Now back to underneath the engine, on the passenger side there are two nuts that retain the trans cooler lines and starter wires, now is the time to get these suckers mounted:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/retainbolt.jpg

time to install the 98 style exhaust manifolds:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/manifolds.jpg

I had to unbolt the steering shaft to gain clearance on the drivers side, but other then that the exhaust install went very smooth, 8 bolts per side, 9/16", new gaskets, dont forget the oil dipstick retainer on the d side!
Also bolted up the downpipes, this is tome consuming on the pass side = PITA

getting the upper intake ready to be bolted on, taking some time here to make sure its done right will save alot of headaches, IE mount everything to the intake now!
Intake elbow, throttle body, EGR valve, sensor, and vacuum switch installed on intake elbow:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/intake1.jpg

engine/PCM wiring routed, mounted, plumbing and wiring ready for upper intake, time to take the blue tape off!
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/intakeready.jpg

Good work Jamie

Someone is going to get a nice truck out of this deal for sure.

new upper intake gasket set in place, upper intake CAREFULLY placed on top of gasket, all hoses routed out of the way/in correct spot. DONT FORGET to install the long rear intake bolt now before placing intake on engine, otherwise firewall is in your way!

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/intakebolted.jpg

at the back of the intake you have to hook up the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line, the wiring for the EGR vacuum switch and flow sensor, the PCV hoses at the front and rear of the intake and you can also see the hot water bypass water lines installed

pic of the back of intake area:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/fireplumb.jpg

Starting to come together!!!

Mounted the coil pack tripod, careful routing of the hoses and wiring, the throttle cable bracket is also bolted to the coil pack tripod, intake stud, and throttle body:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/coilpack.jpg

dont forget the brake booster vacuum line! to back of upper intake, PITA to get the hose clamps in place if you forget to mount it to the intake (like I did) thank goodness for LONG needle nose pliers:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/boosterline.jpg

finally time to install the accessories and brackets:
drivers side bracket mounts with 3 large bolts, this bracket holds the power steering pump and ac compressor:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/steeringbracket.jpg

power steering lines run and plumbed, teflon tape on the high pressure hose fitting. Also you can see the vacuum and EVAP system lines mounted to the upper intake

drivers side bracket again 3 bolts, holds the tensioner and idler pullies as well as the alternator:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/psidebracket.jpg

Alternator was mounted and wired, dont forget one mounting bolt has a stud for the AC hose.
AC hose is installed now, now we are making progress!!

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/brackets.jpg

my arms were about to fall off, after working Sat and Sunday on this project, so I called it a night
I will have it running tonight!

I also dropped the transmission pan and drained the converter, installed new trans filter and a new fuel filter went in

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/progress.jpg

I actually prefer the 96 style filter mount, you get a free oil cooler!
Part of the reason I went with the 99 style for this 98 is because I am not going to keep it, less maintenence for the new owner and I get a backup assembly for my 96 or 88 trucks :)...

I also like the cooler, hopefully these aren't prone to leaking like the first versions on older cars. FYI, my 98 has no cooler, the steel pan, and cast iron headers. The changes happened in 1998 I believe.

Did you leave the balancer on, is it never any trouble? I'd love to bolt on the balancer, and water pump if it doesn't make things harder. Good work there, great pictures and guidelines.

CDW it is a TIGHT fit dropping a 5.0L into the engine bay of a Gen II, the wiring plugs on the firewall must be moved out of the way, with the balancer and waterpump mounted there is about 1/4" of clearance going past the radiator support. Once its dropped in a bit though there is a TON of room to move the engine around, so yes I keep the balancer and pump installed, as well as the flexplate and dustshield, you can even leave the mount plates and manifolds in place if you wish, but then you cant use my trick to get the trans stabbed. It is SO much easier to stab the trans when you can lower the engine all the way down and move it side to side = no engine plates! then as I just covered all these other parts, starter, etc are so much easier before finally putting the engine on the mounts...

Dang I ALMOST got her running last night

After work I spent some time working on this sucker in hopes to fire it up and test for leaks/issues, etc

When it came to pouring in the 3rd gallon of pre mix coolant it started pouring out! LOL Looks like I didnt get the thermostat housing seated fully
So after cleaning up that mess I called it a night, after work tonight I fire it up!

progress:

First I mounted the ac compressor, and routed the serpentine belt

I CAREFULLY cleaned, lubed, and routed all 8 plug wires, very careful to avoid the exhaust manifolds, I dont exactly route the wires the same as Ford does, I think my path works better :) You learn real quick with TM headers!

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/belton.jpg

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/wireson.jpg

Before dropping in the radiator, do yourself a favor and install your lower radiator hose on the engine, saves alot of headaches!

now its time for the radiator and AC condensor = simple simple
drop radiator and condensor in CAREFULLY, you can use cardboard on the back of the rad to protect it while dropping it onto its mounts
retain the rad with two 10mm bolts

install AC lines on both sides:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/acline1.jpg

dont forget to snap the trans cooler lines into their retainer:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/coolerlines.jpg

and thread the trans cooler lines into the radiator:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/translines.jpg

fan clutch installed onto waterpump, dropping in the shroud at the same time, then finally the upper radiator hose:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/fanshroud.jpg

New air filter, cleaned the MAS, install airbox lid, MAS and intake tube:
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/98v8/airbox.jpg

install battery tray and new battery, new oil filter (filled with 3/4 quart of oil)....
I poureed a quart of crappy oil into the crankcase and let it sit for about 5 minutes, then drained one more time. re-install drain plug and fill with 4.25 quarts of Valvoline 5w 30 conventional.
I started to fill the coolant when LEAKS HAPPEN LOL

tonight its 14 quarts of ATF or so, power steering fluid, check tire pressure, check for leaks, a few heat cycles, re-torque exhaust, etc and a TEST DRIVE!!

Next is paint the black trim, new chrome bumper, fix a few odds and ends, full detail, then SALE SALE SALE!!!

I hate it when the t-stat slips on ya like that. Happens all the time. Grr

Ah you are familiar! LOL

stupid 5.0L design, still better then both 4.0L designs though! the SOHC plastic thermo housing has me scratching my head! I will use a dab of silicoln to hold it in place this time :)

I like the SOHC thermostat only for the assurance that it will not leak(with new o-ring). I've had the smallblock thermostat drop while installing it a couple of times.

Give it a good wiggle and push backwards while placing the thermostat housing. Usually that gives you a good feel for whether it is seated properly or not. Do it dry to start with before a sealant.

troubleshooting

no oil pressure

when I drove this 98 home the oil pressure gage was irratic, no big deal I thought Gen II;s do this, bad sensor

so with the new/used 99 engine I installed a new 98 style oil pressure sender, the one wire jobber

Well I fied up the truck and first big huge vacuum leak and exhaust leak
PCV hose at the front of the intake was not on all the way = easy fix
pass side exhaust needed adjustment and tightening (hardest bolt to access on entire truck)
so I fixed that

Fired up the truck, no oil pressure on stock gage until 2500 RPM
Not good enough for me, I need to know the new 99 engine has oil pressure
so off to get $20 mechanical gage

WHAT A PITA it is to install a gage on the side of the 5.0L block in a non body lifted Gen II 5.0L LOL, anyways 1.5 hours later its installed and I fire it up

NO OIL PRESSURE
shut down and it sits
I put the hood on it and rolled it into the driveway, had to get working on the FJ project.

I have one thing I can try and its a long shot, pull the CPS AGAIN (have had it out twice now) I am not sure it is engaging the oil pump drive

If I have to pull this engine back out again I am going to lose it

Yesterday was not a good wrench day LOL, 8 hours of wrenching cost me $20 in gear lube and $20 on a gage and I got nothing accomplished except the garage is cleaner!

Explorer was so frustrating I took a break and then I tore into the FJ project only to find (after draining the front diff) I dont have a 36mm socket.......I have up to 34 and up to 1-5/16, well I need 36mm to get the CVs out of the FJ to swap front diffs!!
Then I spilled 4 quarts of new gear lube on the floor

LOL should have stayed in bed!!


So what are the chances of a CPS bolding down into the block and not grabbing the oil pump drive shaft??? I will have to remove the coil packs and tripod so I can have a look

Idea's????


I am HOPING that this is not a case of "well you swap enough used engines eventually you get a bad one" I have this thought with every one I do, this is like # 14 or so, every single one is still running around perfectly........fingers crossed!

Thats alot of work for not, and my $10 an hour profit is already $2 whats next losing money on this sucker? LOL

Jamie
is there a chance the gear be spinning ( sheared pin) on the cps shaft?

can you get a drill powered oil pump primer and check pressure that way?

CPS is perfect, I had three in front of me when I did the install, spin the gear the flag rotates.....
96, 98 and a 99
99 was pulled from this engine, cant use it (as you know) its 2 wire, small flag, different sensor

the 96 I pulled from a spare motor just in case I needed it, I didnt
the 98 looks great, spins easy, everything functions, I lubed it and dropped it in

Here is the CPS history with this engine:

shortly after putting the engine on its mounts I found TDC #1 cyl and installed 98 sensor using the alignment tool
Then before I started this engine up I second guessed myself, I never confirmed it was TDC on COMPRESSION stroke.
Instead of going inside and reading the forum on the proceedure again I rushed through it like a dumbass, end of the day, engine is in place, I got lazy..... when I dropped the CPS in the first time it lines up okay, but I used a rubber mallet to seat it fully into the block, it did not "gently drop in place" but I was confident it meshed with the cam and pump drive shaft, perhaps too confident

So I pulled the CPS again, without removing the coil packs, I couldnt bring myself to run the engine without knowing for sure
I found TDC again, this time holding my finger over the hole to determine its compression stroke, I had a brain fart last time
The marks on this 99 engine on the balancer are gone, so no looking at 0

Before I pulled the 98 sensor I put the alignment tool on there and it matched up = I had a 50 / 50 shot and apparently I had it correct = great
I pulled the 98 CPS anyway, figured I better have a look at it and see if I can get it to drop in gently this time

I re-installed CPS this time, blind, I cannot look directly into the hole, coil packs are in the way., it meshed just about exactly the same as last time, took a little force to get it down the last 1/4", but not too bad.. took me 3-4 tries to get the arrow on the align tool exactly where it should be, I bolted it down again, checked everything 100 times and fired up the truck = no oil pressure

the 99 sensor, ironically has a bunch of black plastic shavings in the sensor housing = LOL
the 96 and 98 sensors I have look brand new inside = cant they just leave a good design alone????

also the oil pressure sensor on my 96 works perfect, this 98 has all sorts of little issues

So what are the chances I mashed the oil pump drive out of place when I semi forced the CPS in the first time?
I HOPE it is that SIMPLE

the friggin 3rd brake light is FLICKERING at night???????/ WTF is up with that? My neighbor called me last night to let me know, he was worried about the battery draining... LOL sure enough the truck is locked, all doors closed, etc 3rd brake light is barely lit but flickering I did notice its loose in the mount! have to tackle that AFTER I get oil pressure

trying to take a used engine back to the junk yard after 2-3 months and I stripped it down to nothing = they better not give me any crap if I have to do all this work AGAIN I will lose it on the dude!! LOL Caution New dad with bad engine!!


FYI when I did run the engine for 30 seconds, it purrs like a kitten, just with no oil pressure = HELP!!!!!!!!!

Great idea Jon, I assume there is a drill shaft thingy I can buy that engages the 5.0L drive????/ Heck I might have something that will work already!
pulling CPS this week, just want to hear ideas experiences with this, ALL IDEAS WELCOME this truck was to be sold already, like 6 months ago! LOL

Its hard to get $$$ and time from the wife for truck projects when they go like this, so lets get this fixed! LOL I am trying to impress the girl so she will let me V8 the sport trac, see look how easy !!! LOL not this time....

anyone have pics of the oil pump drive shaft?? down inside the block


I cant find any

The oil pump drive shaft is basically just a bar of hex stock,

a 6.5mm socket should fit it-

LOL thanks! I have seen it before, I am familiar with it, what I want to know is if its possible I pushed it out of the way, IE if it can go down far enough to come out of the round guide that holds it in place, basically I am praying for a miracle/simple fix

I am hoping I unbolt the coil tripod and the CPS, look down in there and see something I can fix, instead of having to pull the engine and try to return it......

The oil pump drive shaft is held on both ends, by the pump and the block. That shaft cannot get out unless it were to be bent or the oil pump is loosened a lot.

The distributor or synchronizer often doesn't engage the oil pump initially, in the first top part of insertion. You will feel the distributor or S. touch the oil pump drive shaft. With a little turning, or if it's perfect, it will slip down in(turning as it goes)rather easily, with the same pressure all the way down that last 1/2". That's the gear of the cam keeping it from just falling straight down.

there shouldn't really be any resistance for the last small amount. I would do that again, carefully and gently putting it in.

You can drive the oil pump with a long 1/4" extension and 5/16" bit I believe. If you pull a valve cover you could see oil flowing. Of course the oil pump will have a lot of resistance for it to pump oil. If you get some kind of resistance with a drill, I'd bet that you have oil pressure.

Look over the oil pressure sensor wiring carefully, the problem could be just that.

BIRTHDAY WRENCHING

bad news then FINALLY a little bit of good

okay so I pulled the truck back into the garage/shop

I pulled the CPS, again, DAngit the 98 sensor is fine, no sheered pins on this sucker
I was so hoping it would be easy,
remove coil pack tripod and AC line to have a good look
Everything looks perfect down there

So I get my drill, my snake driver (its a flexible extension for a 1/4" ratchet, about 12" long) and 5/16" socket, drill in reverse, engage oil pump shaft and spin, watching the mechanical pressure gage and NOTHING, NADA, ZIP

Dang now I am frustrated, but hey its my B day, so what I have to pull the engine again, park it for a month or two until I feel like it
Clean up, put tools away

I cant leave well enough alone

I take my primer setup (get tools out again) over to the old 98 block just to have a look and make sure I am doing it right
turn the drill and GLUG GLUG GLUG I am doing it right, even the old 98 engine has oil pump pressure!!

So back to the 99 engine in the truck, I am like well one more time I will try this
so I remove the oil pressure gage hose from the side of the block

get helper to watch the oil port hole and I spin the oil pump shaft again with my drill for about 5 seconds

Good news!

OILwent SHOOTING out!!!

Turns out my new oil pressure gage has a KINK in the plastic line, I cant even blow through it!!

I was happy, I have some sort of oil pumping from the oil pump, the way it shot out leads me to believe we do in fact have oil pressure, how much is the question

So TONIGHT I am going to find TDC AGAIN LOL and re-install the CPS again, fix the KINK in the plastic line and run it again, I EXPECT to see oil pressure

This means the ticking I heard before I shut it down, was a normal exhaust leak I expect to find during the first few heat cycles

StOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOpid factory oil pressure gage/light POS

my guess now is I have corrossion on the oil pressure sensor wire, when I ground it with an aligator clip = gage goes right to the middle

So its likely a loose connection with the wire, regarless whoever buys this truck gets a fancy mechanical oil pressure gage with it for piece of mind :)

So I am SUPER paranoid, BUT its not my fault

As soon as I heard ticking I shut her down, because I had no oil pressure on the factory gage, even after replacing the sender with a new unit
AND I hooked up a mechanical gage and still had NO PRESSURE
turns out its just my luck, I kinked the feed line.........

so fingers crossed tonight we see ADEQUATE OIL PRESSURE and I can detail this sucker and sell it!! I need the $$$ to pay off my Sport trac!!

Hey at least I know for a FACT my CPS is installed perfectly for the 5th time! HAHAHAHA

Very good, it's all in the details, and you are working your way through it. I have a new sensor to put on mine also, and for the price it should do more. I plan on a digital gauge and another sensor, but it's hard to stick the sensors all right there at the oil filter. I have almost finished a tap at the back of the block, I just need a hard line made.

Good news!!

I'm sure you remember I have a temp gauge saying my right head was running about 240 degrees for 16 hours. Stupid gauges.

I'm waiting for a replacement sender from auto-meter myself.


I probably would have handled this the same way. I always suspect wiring last, as you should.

back of the block? I am sure you have planned the location carefully, its diffiuclt at best to access anything back there once its all bolted in

Of course the oil pressure sender on the 5.0L is already NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO ACCESS without removing the ac compressor...

I have been going through the wheel well, below the battery, moving the plastic inner liner out of the way and it still took me 2 hours to remove the factory sender (2 minutes, extension and deep 26mm) and 1:52 to install the new fittings! working blind by feel, tightening the 5/16" line/pressure fitting is fun fun! turn 1/16 of a turn blind, flip wrench over in fingers and try again......drop wrench, repeat!


tonight I am removing the battery tray and possibly AC compressor LOL

sometimes I like the body lift on my 96 and there is something to be said about the oil filter re-locate I use on my BII = SO MUCH EASIER

Thanks for all your help and support, I am kicking myself every hour on the hour for not checking the oil pump and pickup while I had the engine out......

We all have projects, that will keep us out of trouble. I had a short "L" shaped piece made for this with the elbow fitting pointing to the right. They couldn't make the bends short enough, so I have the elbow pointing down now. I need a longer steel line made to sweep down and back up to the top. It is very tight back there. I'm being as careful as I can so that I don't end up with any leak. A leak in a fitting back there would not be good, just like a rear seal leaking.

This will give me another oil tap, and I plan to have two sensors mounted on the firewall. It also will give me an oil source for a turbo.

oh wow! On my BII I used the canton oil filter adapter, I remote mounted my filter with a 4 port filter mount (FL-1A) one line in, one line out, 3rd port = oil pressure gage fitting, 4th port is currently blocked off
a VERY nice solution for getting more oil pressure ports without tapping the block or burying them

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/500/2893conversion_007.jpg

screw this 99 engine POS mother %&^*ing POS!

No oil pressure, I have to pull it again and return it to the junk yard

They better not give me any lip! LOL My wife is due in 2-3 weeks, I have been fighting the POS engine for 3 weeks now, This is my FAULT for not checking before I installed it, all I am asking is they stand behind their POS engine and give me another one with no problems!! Wish me luck!

I was trying to make some $$$ on this truck, LOL and if time is $$$ I am SCREWED!!

Also cost me 5 quarts of oil, 4 gallons of pre mix coolant, some tranny fluid, and an ass load of aggrivation!!

next time I take the oil pan off and prime an engine well before I drop it in the truck
lesson learned

Hold on to your seat folks, we are doing this ALL OVER AGAIN, I am at square 1 except it now has a RED INTAKE, other then that its like a time machine, exactly the same as it was months ago, bad engine, no oil pressure!

Shoot, that sucks. I fell the pain, I have had to do many many things more than once. The good part is that you know what you are doing, a novice would be screwed. Good luck with the yard.

so.. with the engine removal with trans in place.. is it merely just the bellhousing bolts and 3 flexplate to converter bolts right.. other than the other misc crap..starter and such... i am doing this motor swap this weekend. ......i bought a 98 with mass water in oil. Had a valve job done on the heads and they were good. new timing chain, gaskets and all... well, just as I was done i pulled out the oil drain plug so when i poured in the water in the radiator water came out the oil pan during the 3rd gallon of water.. so i was like "IM DONE" I ordered a new shortblock from 50resto and it was 839 to my door. it will arrive tomorrow. I am gonna pull the motor from the explorer then transfer everything over to the new motor and then drop it in.

sorry about the troubles with the oil pressure, i will make sure of it prior to dropping in the motor. good luck.. KILL

screw this 99 engine POS mother %&^*ing POS!

No oil pressure, I have to pull it again and return it to the junk yard

They better not give me any lip! LOL My wife is due in 2-3 weeks, I have been fighting the POS engine for 3 weeks now, This is my FAULT for not checking before I installed it, all I am asking is they stand behind their POS engine and give me another one with no problems!! Wish me luck!

I was trying to make some $$$ on this truck, LOL and if time is $$$ I am SCREWED!!

Also cost me 5 quarts of oil, 4 gallons of pre mix coolant, some tranny fluid, and an ass load of aggrivation!!

next time I take the oil pan off and prime an engine well before I drop it in the truck
lesson learned

Hold on to your seat folks, we are doing this ALL OVER AGAIN, I am at square 1 except it now has a RED INTAKE, other then that its like a time machine, exactly the same as it was months ago, bad engine, no oil pressure!

I thought you had this thing solved when you found the kinked oil pressure sender tube. It looks like you were getting some oil pressure - is it just reading too low now?

Thanks for the effort that you put into this thread, including the pics. I didn't even know that there was a later version ('99-'00) of the oil filter adapter. Don't bring that piece back to the salvage yard; if you don't want to use it, I'll buy it to replace my leaking '97 oil cooler version.

Naturally, my local Ford parts counter doesn't even know that the "dry" filter adapter exists. Their parts inquiries only produce the version with the cooling sleeve (and the huge price tag). A part number from that '99 part would be greatly appreciated, when you get the time.

Sure you just don't need an oil pump?

Ask Ford for the part for a 98 model, both were available then. They should ask you which you have, then tell them that you want the one without the cooler.

It likely does just need an oil pump, BUT I paid $$$ for a working engine, so that is what I intend to get, I expect the yard to work with me on this.
The only thing I am taking back to them is the longblock, they dont care anyways, a bad engine is a core to them any which way you slice it
I have parked this truck for a bit, I will dig back into removing the 99 engine next week, shouldnt take long since all the bolts are nice and fresh LOL just a HUGE PITA

ask for oil filter mount from a 2001 5.0L, even Checker auto parts computer asks if it has oil cooler or not when you ask for an oil filter, wanted to confirm the 820-S fits the 99 also, it does

I am hoping to save the manifold and intake gaskets

here is my motor pulling experience.. this is mainly for helping others and for those that are doing searches.. KILL

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2161775#post2161775

Any luck on getting a working engine?

I will be pulling the engine back out, time permitting

The junk yard I got this 99 engine through is aware of the situation and will help me source a new engine, I am looking at a 2001 with 76K miles :)

Wow...sorry to hear about your troubles. I just got my Sport Trac running with the 5.0 and now I have to pull it all back apart myself. Darn front seal in the tranny is leaking. :( ...only because I replaced it so it wouldn't leak.

I really appreciate your engine pulling tips. I yanked both at the same time last time. So...you think I can get to the bellhousing bolts with then engine mounts off and dropped low? I only have standard box wrenches and not the fancy wrenches you showed. :) Of course, if I need them...I will buy them.

Wish I had some good advice for you. Swapping it might be the best thing though. My engine had been sitting for years and they test started it for me by spraying old fashioned starter fluid in the throttle body because the fuel pump was dead...I took a risk also.

How much does it help to go through the console floor hole? I'm going to be doing that next to swap the trans/TC.

Well, pulling the engine brackets and lowering the engine on the front diff gives you room for the two top bolts. I am not sure how I am going to get to the middle two bolts though. I imagine I still need to drop the crossmember. There really is no shortcuts on this thing, it seems. Anyone want to share how they got the rest of their bellhousing bolts out for pulling the engine? If I undo anything else, it is getting to the point where I might as well pull both out together again.

Here is the amount of room it gives you, for those interested:

http://dperuski.home.comcast.net/2001st/topbolts.jpg

Have you tried going through the floor under the console? That's how people get to the top transfer case bolts. It might help for the bell housing bolts.

Have you tried going through the floor under the console? That's how people get to the top transfer case bolts. It might help for the bell housing bolts.

I guess I need to look better, but there is a removable access panel or something??? I never had the console out of this one. I did in my '96 parts car and don't remember seeing one??

Heck...I may make some strategic holes to access all these bolts in the future.

I'll search the forum some more and see if I can find a pic or something.

Thanks.

in this thread I have already discussed this

the ratcheting wrench pictured above is a SHORTCUT big time

going through the floor is another one, it will allow you to get all 4 top bellhousing bolts and the stubborn POS trans dipstick bolt.....

You cannot pull them together, noth without killing your radiator support

V8 = tight fit

in this thread I have already discussed this

the ratcheting wrench pictured above is a SHORTCUT big time

going through the floor is another one, it will allow you to get all 4 top bellhousing bolts and the stubborn POS trans dipstick bolt.....

You cannot pull them together, noth without killing your radiator support

V8 = tight fit

removing the engine mount plates and dropping the block down a bit is also a big help, using the ratcheting wrench of course :)

The rug covers the access panel under the console. It has a bunch of tiny bolts around the panel. So you end up pulling one of the seats as well as the console. I'm sure some have cut through the rug to avoid the seat R&R. Below shows the mounts for the full length console. After removing the front and middle bolts(4), the console pulls rearward to unhook from the rear bracket.

I slit my carpet right down the middle, no need to pull seats, witht he console replaced the carpet cut is hidden

4ea 8mm bolts hold the access panel down

in this thread I have already discussed this

the ratcheting wrench pictured above is a SHORTCUT big time

Yes. I see where I can get to the two top bolts with it. It is the other 2 I was wondering about.

going through the floor is another one, it will allow you to get all 4 top bellhousing bolts and the stubborn POS trans dipstick bolt.....

If that is the case, maybe I should have just dropped the trans, but heck...I need to check a leak on the engine anyway. After this pull, maybe I will be able to do it in 4 hours. Or maybe not...

You cannot pull them together, noth without killing your radiator support

V8 and V6 with trans are really close to the same length. The v8 was a little easier, actually (love the 302) as I didn't have to remove crap off the top other than the upper plenum which is easy. It is all about angle. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be. You do have to pull the transfer case. I have done both the 4.0 and the 5.0 that way as I could not get to those darn bellhousing bolts. :) I have pulled dozens of 302s on easier to work on vehicles though, so I know where to put the chain and bolts to get the angle. I actually took pictures of where I had the chain so I can reference it in the future. Funny how we all run into different methods and different experiences. Gotta love the internet.

http://dperuski.home.comcast.net/2001st/tight.jpg

Thanks.

Thanks on the access panel stuff too Don. I hope the ST has it. I can't see it from the bottom. I was thinking of changing the consoles out anyway, so there is yet another excuse.

I need a new hoist! LOL I couldnt lift that high if I took my front tires off and layed frame!!

I may have to copy that trick when I pull the engine back out of this 98....in a week or a month... very frustrating!!

Look at how easy the bellhousing bolts are to get to in that picture too. :)

I know! I have done that before, just my truck had no front end LOL I even pulled the t case with it, took like 3 hours by myself total

I need a ceiling mounted hoist....hmmmm LOL



this "modification" makes it real easy to pull the V8 LOL:

http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/XLT/green96/drivetrainhoist.jpg
yes I spilled 8 quarts of ATF that day, it took every rag within 3 miles to get it to non-ice -skating-rink status again, slicker then snot!

here is a huge pic of the center console covered access panel
http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.com/XLT/green96/access.jpg

Holy cow...that is a big access panel. I will try it. Thanks for throwing in the pic.

BTW, if it was you that said you lost trans fluid due to the filler tube...I had to laugh as I did the same thing! I noticed it the next day, but it was only a few quarts as a lot of it was drained already. If you don't get that cleaned quickly, it really makes a problem, I noticed. I didn't think much about that being possible...so much fluid to come out of a fill tube hole. Sure as heck... Oh...and another quart a few months later where I had stored it for a while. Thought it was empty...no...

I suppose I have to drain the tranny all the way to get the TC out without a major mess too? I should anyway as I mangled the fill tube the first time I pulled it out and I bought a good one at the local pull-a-part to replace it. Also thinking of putting a Baumann kit in while I have it drained (if I have to drain). I put one in my 302 Stranger Ranger and loved it, but I had the Baumannator to go with it.

Might do an HO cam and 1.7rr too.

Why is this thing adding words to my post??? It is not a stranger ranger...

This is A.pril F.ools day, lots of words have been replaced by "special" words. Look at the main site, headings etc.

I thought that MIGHT be the case...

Always drain your converter and the trans pan before pulling the transmission, I failed to do so on the day of the picture above, actually I believe I drained the converter, came back a week later and forgot to drain the trans pan, I also figured I am pulling it all out straight forward, it wont spill much, LOL......it did! 8 quarts out the back of the tailhousing once the t case was seperated, I did this same drivetrain pull on two trucks, the 96 rolled donor and my 96 build daily driver, neither truck had a radiator support, made it real easy and I got too sell two AWD t cases :)

OK then...no taking chances. I will just drain it all. I have been down and out for the last couple days with a stomach virus... Hope to get back at it tomorrow now that I have joined the land of the living again.

I've been watching and helping others with their swaps. Today I thought about if I was able to put enough mileage on to need my own engine work. I don't think that I want another SOHC/5R55E for work use. I think I'll begin picking spare parts from my V8 truck to be ready later to do my own swap.

You guys make it look so easy.

As to not try an be a total thread hog...I have posted my latest on my original thread on this:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240796

Thought it might help motivate someone. :)

[QUOTE=

So I get my drill, my snake driver (its a flexible extension for a 1/4" ratchet, about 12" long) and 5/16" socket, drill in reverse, engage oil pump shaft and spin, watching the mechanical pressure gage and NOTHING, NADA, ZIP

Dang now I am frustrated, but hey its my B day, so what I have to pull the engine again, park it for a month or two until I feel like it
Clean up, put tools away

I cant leave well enough alone

I take my primer setup (get tools out again) over to the old 98 block just to have a look and make sure I am doing it right
turn the drill and GLUG GLUG GLUG I am doing it right, even the old 98 engine has oil pump pressure!!
[/QUOTE]

The oil pump drive shaft is a 1/4 hex not a 5/16 hex. Using a 5/16 socket will give you some oil flow from the filter but no pressure. Try using a 1/4 socket to drive the oil pump before you pull the engine again.

thanks for the tip!!

1/4" socket I will try........I plan to pull the drivetrain this weekend, unless we have our baby, any day now....

Before I pull it again I will try this, but there are about 10 signs that point to no oil pressure on this sucker...tick tick tick tick

Whoa...you are about to have a baby? 1st?? Congrats.

yup little boy hes due any day now, its my first but my wifes 4th boy LOL, her youngest is 18 now LOL

Cannot wait! My future team driver a nd pit crew is almost here!!

Best wishes there Jamie, get some sleep now. Did you see "Me, Myself, and Irene"? I hope that he looks just like you.

Cannot wait! My future team driver a nd pit crew is almost here!!

Awesome.

Get some sleep while you can, like Don says. :)

I'd just put on a new oil pump rather than going through all the hassle of another engine, with all the cleaning etc to do all over again.

Could just be the high pressure bypass valve in the pump stuck open.

Total loss of oil pressure ain't fun. Happened to the 302 in my sister's 1977 Mustang. Valve seals got hard and broke, somehow a chunk of one got through the pickup screen and jammed the pump. Twisted the pump drive up like a pretzel then snapped it off. Took the crank bearings down to the copper/lead layer right quick before she shut it off.

Thanks!! I am going to try and get started pulling it this weekend

the thing that sucks is Ford didnt give you a WARNING on these trucks to let you know there is no oil pressure LOL, it only takes like 5 psi to switch the dummy gage to the middle...

I would repair this engine too, IF I wasnt able to return it for one that has not been run now without oil pressure, so I will go through the hassle of pulling and returning it

Ditto, you don't know what the bearings and cam lobes and 50 other surfaces look like after running without oil pressure. It may do fine with a new oil pump, or the wear may be enough that it smokes or rattles, or blows up after seven months.