I am getting ready to install my new CB and antenna. The problem is that the cable from the antenna is no where near long enough to run it like I want to. (center of roof-> roof rack-> back of vehicle-> through lift gate-> behind body panels-> under carpet-> center console where CB will be mounted) Also another problem is the thing on the end of the cable that screws onto the CB is too big to push through a hole in the weatherstripping that will need to seal around the cable.
I have read somewhere that you can't just cut the cable and splice in an extension, you have to put connectors on the ends. I have also read that the cable is supposed to be a certain length so the CB and antenna will work right.?? So how DO I splice the cable? What kind of connectors? How do they go on? Where do I get them? Will changing the length of the cable mess something up?
Thanks for the help.

Originally posted by yob_yeknom
I am getting ready to install my new CB and antenna. The problem is that the cable from the antenna is no where near long enough to run it like I want to. (center of roof-> roof rack-> back of vehicle-> through lift gate-> behind body panels-> under carpet-> center console where CB will be mounted) Also another problem is the thing on the end of the cable that screws onto the CB is too big to push through a hole in the weatherstripping that will need to seal around the cable.
I have read somewhere that you can't just cut the cable and splice in an extension, you have to put connectors on the ends. I have also read that the cable is supposed to be a certain length so the CB and antenna will work right.?? So how DO I splice the cable? What kind of connectors? How do they go on? Where do I get them? Will changing the length of the cable mess something up?
Thanks for the help.

Question #1: How long is the antenna cable? It should be a minimum of 17ft. Anything less will cause a mismatch between your transceiver (CB) and your antenna. 17Ft is normally plenty, if not too much, cable for most installs. If you ever find yourself with a few feet of excess cable, DO NOT coil it up in a tight ball! Instead use a larger loop so that the electrical characteristics of the cable stay intact. :D

Question #2: The THING on the transceiver (CB) end of the antenna cable is commonly referred to as a PL-259 Connector. They CAN be removed so you can fit your cable thru plugs in the firewall, behind trim, etc. MAKE SURE you DO NOT MAKE ANY SEVERE BENDS IN THE CABLE!!!!! Rule of thumb is to make your bends as gradual as you can so the cable doesn't get pinched/squished. Also, anchor the cable whenever possible using plastic pull ties to eliminate movemment. Once you've routed your cable from the antenna to the CB, the easiest way to install a PL-259 is to get a NEW one from Radio Shack. Somewhere on the cable may be numbers identifying the cable type. Should be RG-58 for a single antenna setup. When at Rad-Shack get a PL-259 and in a separate package they sell the reducing bushing, known as an UG-175...It slides over the cable BEFORE you strip back the outside sheath of the cable when installing the new PL-259. It then screws inside the PL-259 to adapt the smaller diameter cable to the larger housing of the PL-259. A good soldering gun is required to properly heat up the center pin and the solder so it flows smoothly. It should look shiny when you're done.

Sorry for such a long reply, but it was neccessary!!!!! If you have any other questions, just let me know! Been into CB/Ham radio for a while now....Gosh, 20+ years...I must be getting REALLY old.....:D

Jim,
I need to put disconnect on my antenna wire, about three feet from the antenna. Can I also use a BNC type connector for this? Or perhaps even a TV coax type connector as long as it's mated to the coax wire correctly? This disconnect will be inside the vehicle and not subjected to weather.

Originally posted by wabbit
Jim,
I need to put disconnect on my antenna wire, about three feet from the antenna. Can I also use a BNC type connector for this? Or perhaps even a TV coax type connector as long as it's mated to the coax wire correctly? This disconnect will be inside the vehicle and not subjected to weather.


Hi Wabbit (you Wascal,U) Sorry, couldn't resist! LOL

BNC connectors are made to pass a signals at a DIFFERENT FREQUENCY than the ones used with CB's. The TV coax type, aka "F-Fittings" are also NOT recommended. Personally, i'd use two pl-259's with a barrel connector (coupler, female on both ends)...It will maintain the electrical characteristic's of the cable. Kinda bulky, but the recommended way to go.
Hope this helps!

Do you know if a M/F connector setup is available? As opposed to a M/FF/M.

Originally posted by wabbit
Do you know if a M/F connector setup is available? As opposed to a M/FF/M.


Not that i have ever seen. female connectors go on the chassis of radios....hence the reason to use the coupler...
Sorry.

More questions...
How do I remove the PL-259 connector from the cable? Cut it off?
My cable is RG-58U. What is the U for? It is a Wilson Lil' Wil antenna.
I will need at least 6' more cable to reach the CB. That will make a total length of 24'. Is that okay?
I have to make a sharp bend in the cable to get it inside the vehicle. It will need to bend where it will come in at the lift gate. What should I do about that?
Can you give me VERY DETAILED step by step instructions on how to put on the new connectors? I have never done anything like this before.

Thank you for your help. It is very appreciated!!

You might be able to decrease the bend by changing the angle of the cable relative to the centerline of the truck. If you try to come straight back off the roof, then straight into the truck, it will be sharp. However, if you angle the cable so that it won't be coming in at 90deg relative to the tailgate, it should lessen the actual angle of the bend. Does this make sense?

Another couple of questions...
Would an RFI filter like they make to put on power wires of car stereo amplifiers be good to use on the power wire of the CB? Would it help cut down all the interference Explorers make that I have been reading about? Do they make a certain one for CB's?
I am going to wire the CB directly to the battery to help cut down on interference also. Would using a relay connected to the fuse box that would cut the power directly from the battery to the CB off when the fuse box wasn't powered and on when it was powered work? That way the CB would be wired directly to the battery but also cut on and off when I turned the key on and off. Or would the relay to the fuse box just be a pathway for the interference to get to the CB?
Sorry for all the questions. I'm completely new to this...

I just got back from the truck stop that I've been buying all my stuff from. I got the following: PL-259 Connector with reducer bushing, 9' RG-58AU cable, female to female connector.
I'm really anxious to get this done now that I have all of the parts. I couldn't resist bumping because I really want a quick reply.

Originally posted by yob_yeknom
More questions...
How do I remove the PL-259 connector from the cable? Cut it off?
My cable is RG-58U. What is the U for? It is a Wilson Lil' Wil antenna.
I will need at least 6' more cable to reach the CB. That will make a total length of 24'. Is that okay?
I have to make a sharp bend in the cable to get it inside the vehicle. It will need to bend where it will come in at the lift gate. What should I do about that?
Can you give me VERY DETAILED step by step instructions on how to put on the new connectors? I have never done anything like this before.

Thank you for your help. It is very appreciated!!


Yes, you can just cut it off.
The U in rg-58U means it's Military Grade (i think)...Don't hold me to this.
It can bend. Just don't Kink it!!! you can bend it as long as the diameter of the cable doesn't change. Big trick is not to pinch it where it enters the hatchback, thru a window, etc.....Nice and round all the way and your A-OK!!

To install a PL-259:
1: Slide the UG-175 adaptor and the outer cover of the PL-259 over the end of the coax and slide them down a few inches. The UG-175 will thread into the body of the main housing of the PL-259, and the outer cover screws on over it.

2: Strip back approximately 1 inch of the outside jacket/insulation, being careful not to knick the stranded copper/or aluminum braid. Strip 1/2" of the center insulation off of the center conductor. Then carefully fold the braid back over the outside insulation. Slide the UG-175 up to the top of the outside jacket and trim the braid so it won't get caught in the threads of the UG-175 adaptor. Then take the main housing of the PL-259 and screw it onto the UG-175 adaptor, checking to make sure the center conductor is going up the center of the housing ok. Firming tighten the adaptor to the housing. Solder the center conductor to the tip it's inside of. Drop a bead of solder into one of the little holes on the side where the braid is showing. Don't heat this area too much...
Screw the outer jacket onto the PL-259 and you're done.

Woof. My hands are crampin!!!!!! Long Post!

Originally posted by yob_yeknom
Another couple of questions...
Would an RFI filter like they make to put on power wires of car stereo amplifiers be good to use on the power wire of the CB? Would it help cut down all the interference Explorers make that I have been reading about? Do they make a certain one for CB's?
I am going to wire the CB directly to the battery to help cut down on interference also. Would using a relay connected to the fuse box that would cut the power directly from the battery to the CB off when the fuse box wasn't powered and on when it was powered work? That way the CB would be wired directly to the battery but also cut on and off when I turned the key on and off. Or would the relay to the fuse box just be a pathway for the interference to get to the CB?
Sorry for all the questions. I'm completely new to this...

See this article under the Explorer Tips section:

http://www.4x4central.com/tips.htm#rfi

Isolation is the key here. If the only connection your cb and the rest of your electrical system share is at the battery, the chances of interference diminish significantly.

Hope this helps!