Just curious what type of motor oil is most commonly used.

Originally posted by Cameron
Just curious what type of motor oil is most commonly used.

Could you add an ancillary poll that deals with which brands of oil used?

Thanks....

I'd use PIAA Motor oil but it costs $20 a quart... and they only sell it overseas... and its designed for Formula 1 race cars, LOL.
Al, i think there are far too many brands of oil to start a survey based on that... I can think of 8 brands of oil that just popped into my head... I'm sure theres many many more...

Originally posted by aldive


Could you add an ancillary poll that deals with which brands of oil used?

Thanks....

I wanted to do that but we are limited to 5 options in the poll. There are way too many different oil companies and sub-brands and weights to be covered under 5 options.

castrol synthetic blend 5w 30. that stuff rocks!

Wait.....


We're supposed to use oil?

SH*T!

Originally posted by mattadams
I'd use PIAA Motor oil but it costs $20 a quart... and they only sell it overseas... and its designed for Formula 1 race cars, LOL.
Al, i think there are far too many brands of oil to start a survey based on that... I can think of 8 brands of oil that just popped into my head... I'm sure theres many many more...

Oh god, they even shaft you on oil too? :rolleyes: Dang Matt, you have quite a racket there. Of all the things, I don't think I have ever heard of a light company making oil. For $20 it better be 100k oil. :p

I think I've got synthetic... But then, the oil's probably been changed since I went to college, so God only knows what my parent's put in my baby this time... :smoke:

10-30 mobil one.....

Pennzoil 10/30, I'm not sure if its that new kind or not, I'll look at the box tomorrow :) But once this box runs out Im going for Valvoline Max Life.

Slippery wet oil :D

jeff, that is usually the best kind :)

Actually I use Castrol or Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w30. Depends upon which is on sale at the time.

Originally posted by Gimp

Now there's a man after my own heart.
Friends and family make fun of me a lot because I'm 'thrifty'. They are also quick to remind me of the time that I busted my head open and rather than let them take me to the emergency room to get it sewn up (as I had done on previous occasions where I'd busted my head), I get on the phone to call around to find out where I could get the best deal on getting x-rayed and sewn up. Now, that's cheap............I mean, 'thrifty'.;)

Superglue does wonders for suturing up large gashes :D, and it's CHEAP er, thrifty . Besides, that's what it was originally designed for!!

Royal Purple 10W 30 for me.

I see a lot of 10-30Ws above
Doesn't Ford call for 5-30W?
I remember something a few years ago with GM cars getting sticking ????? with 10-30 10-40 so they switched to 5-30w.

Since then everyone seemed to go to 5-30W.
What are I missing or what don't I know?

All the 4.0L Explorers call for 5W30 oil, and I think some of the 5.0L actually call for 5W20 (I may be wrong, this is from memory). When engines get older, the tolerances between components inside get greater due to wear. This allows more oil to get into the combustion process. By switching to a 10w from a 5w in an older motor, you will burn less oil due to the increase in viscosity.

Vehicles are also now under stricter gas mileage limits. Ford and other companies are recommending thinner oils which will help gas mileage somewhat. Also, some of the newer engines might be built with closer tolerances, but I believe it has more to do with gas mileage.

I am running 5W30 Amsoil full synthetic 25,000 miile oil. It's great stuff and I only have to repalce the filter after 6 months. The means only 1 full oil change per year :-)

Originally posted by 95XLT
I am running 5W30 Amsoil full synthetic 25,000 miile oil. It's great stuff and I only have to repalce the filter after 6 months. The means only 1 full oil change per year :-)

I am not comfortable with extending oil service life that long.

As important as clean oil is, and as cheap as oil is, thyen why not change more frequently?

Originally posted by Gimp

Now there's a man after my own heart.
Friends and family make fun of me a lot because I'm 'thrifty'. They are also quick to remind me of the time that I busted my head open and rather than let them take me to the emergency room to get it sewn up (as I had done on previous occasions where I'd busted my head), I get on the phone to call around to find out where I could get the best deal on getting x-rayed and sewn up. Now, that's cheap............I mean, 'thrifty'.;)

Wow thats what I do when I get oil! Last few quarts I had were Shell 5w-30 it was the cheapest I could find too! I am looking at switching the XLT over to Synthetic so I can go longer then the 5k between changes I do now. After reading Peters, and Geralds testing on oil I will try to go 15k or so depending on if it gets low or not. I just need to find out how to change it over. :)

I remember one of my old trucks never got the oil changed. It leaked out into the cylinders and burned off faster then I could add it sometimes. :)

Amsoil 0W30. Change once a year or every 25K miles, whichever comes 1st. When I get my dual remote filter in, I may never change it. You just get it analyzed every 6K miles or so.

Originally posted by aldive


I am not comfortable with extending oil service life that long.

As important as clean oil is, and as cheap as oil is, thyen why not change more frequently?

I wasn;t comfortable with this either, but if you get your oil analyzed and find out that it in fact is safe, it's worth it. If everone used 25,000 mile oil....we woul;d not have oil shortages, we would have less dirty waste oil to deal with and the world would be a better place! :-)
(well, ok maybe thats streaching it, but oh well)

Mobil 1 or the Amsoil stuff is your best bet

Mobil ! synthetic 5W30 here

SAE 40 Esso Multygrade (in the last change), before mobil multygrade.

I use regular Havoline 10W-30 in my 91' OHV. The early OHV's specified 10W-30. It's the only type and weight I've ever used in it. It easy to find just about anywhere.

just went to jiffy lube and got a penzoil pz1 filter and quaker state synthetic 4x4 10w-30.... i had mobile1 10w-40 in it but took it in as it was 8k since the last iol change and it was raining and i was lazy

Castrol full sythetic 5W-30 in my explorer and Mobil 1 syn 0W-30 in my daytona. but i'm going to try AMSOIL soon.

Castrol 10W30 every 3000 miles.

I use Mobil 1 10W30 with the Motorcraft FL-1A Filter.

Originally posted by jjue
Castrol 10W30 every 3000 miles.

Same here but every 3 months.

Valvoline 5w-30 and fram toughguard filter, always

I use whatever is cheap at the time. I think I used Murray's 5W-30 and a Fram filter (the one with the grippy stuff on the end) the last time I changed my oil. I change it every 5000 miles as the dealer recommends. I don't usually keep my daily driver cars more than a couple of years, so I don't really care too much.

My Mustang, on the other hand, only gets Synthetic everything--oil, trans fluid, pwr steering fluid, etc.

For my '97, Valvoline 5W30 and Purolator filter (change myself)

For my '91 (used in business), 10W30 at the local Penzoil quick change shop.

Mobil 1 (10-30)

Its a close one, but it looks like synthetic by a nose!

Mobil 1 oil and filter

:chug: :chug:

I used to work as a quality control technician at a major hydraulics firm and had acess to over 1 million dollars worth of oil testing equipment.

I decided to test a number of automotive oil brands for personal enrichment. Upside to the tests, synthetic is VERY good! Downside, some domestic brands are almost as bad as no oil at all!

Tests included: particulate contamination (how clean the oil was - huge factor in longivity) - Viscosity (is it really 10w30 and how does it change with temps) - Recirculating ball test (run a ball bearing against a shaft at 3000 rpm with an oil drip - measure at intervals for shaft wear).

In particular, both Pennziol and Quaker State oils were virtually worthless. Both fouled my Royco particle tester and both failed miserably in the recirculating ball test. (They cut the shaft in half after only several hours of running!)

Best domestics were Valvoline and Havoline (non-synthetic). The Valvoline in particular was almost as good as a synthetic on the recirculating ball test and was easly the best domestic natural oil.

Synthetics tested included Mobil 1 and Amzoil. Amzoil was better than Mobil 1, but both were better than any other oil tested (not a complete test, some new oils have hit the market since of which I have no info). The Amzoil did not even leave a mark on the shaft, which indicated to me their break in instructions were correct - ie, run standard oil for around 10,000 miles before changing over to synthetics. Valvoline left a shiny spot on the shaft, but could not be measured after a week of running. Other domestics wore groves in the shaft after days of runnig.

In doing mechanic work for 20+ years on the side, I have also noticed that the motors using Pennziol are usually full of crud, and I recently had to replace the crankshaft on a Dodge Dakota with less than 80,000 miles. Two bearings were completely gone, Owner swore by Pennzoil. Took the block to a local machinest to bore it and he told us the type of oil used in the motor. He said he sees it all the time.

In another incident, I started running Amsoil in a Chevette with 22,000 miles. I followed their standard 25,000 mile change with a filter change at 12,000 (add 1 qt to fill to caoacity). After 220,000 miles of this the car only used the one quart of oil per 25,000 miles from the change. I sold the car and it is still running. I don't know the current mileage.

One further story... I ran an F150 with a built 390 and 38's and had difficulty moving it off the spot on some of those -20 degree mornings in Wisconsin. I swtiched all the diffs, trans, and transfer case to synthetic and was able to drive away normally no matter what the temps.

All of this is anecdotal evidence, but I know where my money goes! I use synthetics all the way!

Amsoil 5W-30 here. ¿Wasn't aware that there was any other substance worthy of the name oil (i.e. something slick that actually lubricates and doesn't gum stuff up)
I also do extended drain. (provides equal protection and is great when you are like me and on a college student shoe string budget) Also, I have to get at least 600k before my first rebuild. I just wish the IDIOTS that owned it before wouldn't have put Pingzoil in it before so I can get the full engine life (1 million miles any less than that and an engine was just plain abused). This thing has to last me the rest of my life. While the rest of you guys are here using these things as play-toys, I will pay mine off, marry my fiancée, pay off the student loan, let her get residency in the U.S. then, move back home to Nicaragua where I will spend the rest of my life teaching ESL in the Baptist University. Doing the Lord's work in missions. And getting to wheel in the most beautiful country in the world. Unfortunatly teaching ESL in at University level pays about $300 a month. Granted, you can live off of it just fine. Just, don't expect to buy any new cars with it (Nicaraguan bank intrest currently steady but 50% APR) So, anyhoo, I got to drive it 'till the wheels fall off, then when they do, try to have some church up here in US help me put it back together so I can do more mission crusaides with father in law to be in the mountains. It is some fun wheeling. Can't wait to do it in an X. I know they can take it. (I saw one up there in the mountains. (WAYYYY up in the mountains. Have no clue how it got there Gen 2 with no lift and no more than 31's (if that tall). They can handle it though. :D

The problem with oil is that the manufacturers are constantly changing formulations and buying each other out. You never seem to know what you are getting any more. The only way to really know how well your oil is performing is to have an oil analysis run on your oil. Check out this website, there is more info oil than you can ever read:

www.bobistheoilguy.com
-Joe

Amsoil 5w-30 or 10w-30

I use Castrol GTX 10W30 in my X

QS 10-30 Synthetic blend for 4X4's.

wow i didn't think that many used synthetic

castrol synthetic blend 5w 30. that stuff rocks!


My thoughts exactly.. ive been using that stuff on my 98 "doomed to blow up" SOHC and its still running strong after 145000 miles (and two hydrolocks :D )

whether its the oil making the difference, i see now reason to change to full synthetic or regular motor oil.. or brand or weight for that reason.

castrol syntec blend 5w30 every 3K and you're good to go :thumbsup:

10w-30 castrol in this x.

in my car i recently switched to Castrol 10w30 Partial Synthetic, and up until i smashed it it seemed like it didn't use as much oil and got slightly better gas mileage

I used to work as a quality control technician at a major hydraulics firm and had acess to over 1 million dollars worth of oil testing equipment.

I decided to test a number of automotive oil brands for personal enrichment. Upside to the tests, synthetic is VERY good! Downside, some domestic brands are almost as bad as no oil at all!

Tests included: particulate contamination (how clean the oil was - huge factor in longivity) - Viscosity (is it really 10w30 and how does it change with temps) - Recirculating ball test (run a ball bearing against a shaft at 3000 rpm with an oil drip - measure at intervals for shaft wear).

In particular, both Pennziol and Quaker State oils were virtually worthless. Both fouled my Royco particle tester and both failed miserably in the recirculating ball test. (They cut the shaft in half after only several hours of running!)

Best domestics were Valvoline and Havoline (non-synthetic). The Valvoline in particular was almost as good as a synthetic on the recirculating ball test and was easly the best domestic natural oil.

Synthetics tested included Mobil 1 and Amzoil. Amzoil was better than Mobil 1, but both were better than any other oil tested (not a complete test, some new oils have hit the market since of which I have no info). The Amzoil did not even leave a mark on the shaft, which indicated to me their break in instructions were correct - ie, run standard oil for around 10,000 miles before changing over to synthetics. Valvoline left a shiny spot on the shaft, but could not be measured after a week of running. Other domestics wore groves in the shaft after days of runnig.

In doing mechanic work for 20+ years on the side, I have also noticed that the motors using Pennziol are usually full of crud, and I recently had to replace the crankshaft on a Dodge Dakota with less than 80,000 miles. Two bearings were completely gone, Owner swore by Pennzoil. Took the block to a local machinest to bore it and he told us the type of oil used in the motor. He said he sees it all the time.

In another incident, I started running Amsoil in a Chevette with 22,000 miles. I followed their standard 25,000 mile change with a filter change at 12,000 (add 1 qt to fill to caoacity). After 220,000 miles of this the car only used the one quart of oil per 25,000 miles from the change. I sold the car and it is still running. I don't know the current mileage.

One further story... I ran an F150 with a built 390 and 38's and had difficulty moving it off the spot on some of those -20 degree mornings in Wisconsin. I swtiched all the diffs, trans, and transfer case to synthetic and was able to drive away normally no matter what the temps.

All of this is anecdotal evidence, but I know where my money goes! I use synthetics all the way!

I guess you didn't test the CHEAP wally world oil out. LOL! I have used it along with fram oil filters on my Buick that has 190,000 miles on it and doesn't burn or lose any oil. I change my oil about every 7,500 miles. BTW: I used the Valvoline AND the Havoline from walmart when they were out of their chepo oil. They don't cost much more than the chepo so maybe i'll use just them from now on.
Thamks for the test results.

valvoline 5w30 all the way i used to work for a well know quick lube co that features pennzoil(hmmmmm wonder who that is) and they tryed to push pennzoil down my troat too untill i showed them what it really does

Regular mobil 10W40

MOBILE ONE SUPER SYN TECH, 5w30, little pricey but i guess it's worth it if i wanna keep it around for a while,

Thought I'd chime in here. Chaulk one up for me on the Synthetic side.

In all my past vehicles I always ran full synthetic but was hesitant to in my Explore. Mainly because I already had 60K on the clock when I bought it (and there appeared to be a ton of sludge in the oil pan when I did my first oil change on it).

I have since gone to Full Synthetic. This time I'm running Kendall (only because the Oil Change Place I go to uses it and I couldn't do this oil change myself). Next Oil Change is Royal Purple all the way.

I know a lot of people swear by Amsoil, but I found Royal Purple a few years back when I had a new '00 Ford Ranger. I was running regular oil to 20K and then switched to Royal Purple. After Switching to Royal Purple, I gained enough power that I could chirp my off-road A/T's in second and third, I could wind the motor out a lot more without it giving off that "I'm going to blow up" feeling and I gained about 2 mpg. Ohh, also, when I did an oil change at 5k, the oil still looked brand new.

All just my experience, no hard core tests, but that's enough for me.

Poll closed. The thread can still be replied to.