This is relation to my 2005 F150 w/5.4 3v. 59k miles

On the way home from T-haven we started getting a chugging sound from the engine on the passenger side of the truck. It could also be a exhuast leak, but you only here it under load, or when the truck is in gear moving. We were pushing it a bit hard coming home on a hill ( blowing past all the diesels:D) but I didn't think that bad. I'm also running a edge Programer so the good thing is it records all the tempeture peaks.

I don't think these are high enough temp to cause this problem. These are all peaks. So they were not there very long.:rolleyes:

ECT 212* (Coolant)
EOT 243* (Oil)
CHT 224* (Head)
Trans 214* (it stays under 200* most of the time)

I have no power loss, and the oil looks fine, although a bit dirty already for just being changed 1000 miles ago. Also the no dummy lights or codes were triggered.

Thoughts?

Exhaust, head gasket would cause some cooling issues.

bump...:(

Well with no insite as to what the problem is, I'm going drop it off at Ford and let them figure it out for $100 bucks.:(:rolleyes: With no codes I really have no idea where to start.

I would call the noise a spark knock at this time.

Check to see if the egr hoses going to the DPFE got blown off, or are leaking.??

Check to see if the egr hoses going to the DPFE got blown off, or are leaking.??

That's some of the problem...these dam things are too modern.:rolleyes: No EGR, has individial coil pack on each plug, so no plug wires, and the throttle is drive by wire.:( It could just be a stuipid sensor, but without a code, I could just be replaceing random parts till the wallet is empty.

I don't think these are high enough temp to cause this problem. These are all peaks. So they were not there very long.:rolleyes:

ECT 212* (Coolant)
EOT 243* (Oil)
CHT 224* (Head)
Trans 214* (it stays under 200* most of the time)

Thoughts?

2 things.

1. That thing stays cold! My continuous temps driving out (& back) to T-haven were:

ECT 210-220°
EOT 230-250°
EGT 700-1150°
Trans 170-190°

2. Check the usual exhaust gaskets & components.

You could have a blown COP.. Which is a royal PITA to diagnose. My 2001 F150 went through 3 in 6 months.. Never threw a SES, just ran like crap or died.

Never crutch on the SES/CEL/MIL to tell you what's wrong.








Jeff - :navajo:

cracked exsaust manafold :(
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cracked exsaust manafold :(
Posted via Mobile DeviceWell thats not really a big deal. Start tomorrow and you should be done before next week :)

So just got back from Ford. The passenger side Exhaust manafold has a crack in it running lentgh wise and has alrealdy started warping. I see this happened for two reasons.

1. Bad design...isn't it funny how they only make replacements for that side?:rolleyes:

2. to hard on them. With the Edge on Level 3, a cat back, Explorer on a trailer and passing the diesels on a grade. I think it just through in the towel!


So...I can a replacment for about $100 bucks, but I really don't want to be doing this again. So I'm thinking Headers?:cool: More money should solve the problem. Now I just need to figure out which ones and where to find the money for them.:(

My vote is junkyard manifold and front locker for JP. :D

My vote is junkyard manifold and front locker for JP. :D


Good reason to buy a welder?:D

How much are headers? Would the install be beyond difficult?

Good reason to buy a welder?:D

Or just take it to pops house and weld it up there. Tell Arus that the money you saved by not HAVING to buy a WELDER or HEADERS that is going for a front locker. :D
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Not sure it would work at my house either :(

How much are headers? Would the install be beyond difficult?

I'm told the passenger side is real PITA

PaceSetter
Mids Steel $234.39
Shorty Ceramic $398.39

JBA
Shorty Stainless $459.95

Edlebrock
Shorty Stainless, ceramic $479.95

Gibson
Shorty Nickle Chrome Steel $488.99

Doug's
Shorty Steel $529.95

Banks
Shorty $543.95

and there are more...But I ain't spending $1500 on headers :eek:

I can get a OEM replacement for under $100 bucks

Are they all CA legal?

Yeah all 50 state legel. One of the F-150 guys said that the Banks are the only good ones but thats a lot of dough!.

I found these on Ebay Pacesetter for under $200
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pacesetter-Headers-Ford-F-150-07-06-05-04-5.4L-F150-2_W0QQitemZ250513908417QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=&itemid=250513908417

So I'm gonna stay away from the pacesetters.

Here are the two choises I'm down too. I heard Ceramic coating keeps them a bit cooler, but not a huge differance, It's much more important is say a vette or something.

JBA
1676S Stainless $459
1676SJS/SJT Ceramic coated $635

Edelbrock
65232 Ceramic coated $479
65233 Ti-Tech coated $395

I think the edelbrocks or going to win...based on price!

If you go with the JBAs, you can come down to San Diego you can pick them up and have them installed at the JBA factory.

If you go with the JBAs, you can come down to San Diego you can pick them up and have them installed at the JBA factory.

I thought JBA was in San Dimas....

http://17.media.tumblr.com/orYDLadn2pvo2x1r6ewYPJXmo1_500.jpg

Well what are you getting?

In a holding pattern right now due to a hawaiian disease called LAC-A-MULA. and all 3 of us are down sick in the house, could be be the bacon flu, but who knows:rolleyes:

I did e-mail a guy on the East coast who has a set of brand new $600+ ceramic coated JBA's for $450. Still waiting to hear. Also Waiting for a 1k check from the real estate thing:thumbsup:

I have another problem as well with the truck, the driver side bearring are gone in the rotor, and they are part of the unit. So I to replace the whole thing:mad:

Good news is, my sis-in-law in out of the country, so I have her Escape to drive around. You know that thing is almost the same wheelbase as a Ex Sport:D hmmmmmmm....

Ordered the JBA's. Got them through Stage 3 Motorsports. They specialize in Mustangs and F150's. They were cheaper then Summit by $30 bucks, plus I found a 5% off coupon, plus I got free shipping, plus they are in AZ., so sales tax.:cool:

$408.45 to my door:thumbsup: Saved at least $60 bucks

http://products.jbaheaders.com/assets/product_images/1676S.jpg

Hmmm Curious what's the cure for LAC-A-MULA? :p:

Americana Expresso or Mulamaster Cardio. :D

more like shift things around-o.... Luckly I pay all my bills way early, some I can't even pay because there not ready yet. This gives me the option to slide something else in, as long as I know there is money coming in later.;) And helping sell a house was a big win!:thumbsup:

No Headers for this weekend:( This is what I get for saving $60 bucks:rolleyes: If I ordered through Summit, they would already be here. But I didn't...and they are blaming SEMA...So they are getting drop shipped from JBA tommorow, which means I will not have them till next week.:(

Next wekend (14-15) I'll do the install, so if anyone is board, they can stop by;) I'll test out the garage-cam too:D

A nice man in a brown truck dropped off a box this morning:D:thumbsup: Headers look good, they should flow wayyyyy better then stock. Not sure when the install will begin, may start sometime this week... Stay Tuned!

Do they have a CARB EA tag on them?

Do they have a CARB EA tag on them?

on the headers....no, but I do have a sticker for under the hood;) Besides I have until '11 till smog.:D

Speaking of...They had the smog police set up around the corner last week. glad I didn't take the truck anywhere, or I would have got nailed with the leak:rolleyes:

Speaking of...They had the smog police set up around the corner last week. glad I didn't take the truck anywhere, or I would have got nailed with the leak:rolleyes:

And people wonder why i roll around town in a 1975 Van(smog exempt):cool:

And people wonder why i roll around town in a 1975 Van(smog exempt):cool:

hey if it's poluting enough...they'll still nail you. They had a 99-04 SD diesel pulled over with the hood up:confused: and they are smog exempt too.:rolleyes:

hey if it's poluting enough...they'll still nail you. They had a 99-04 SD diesel pulled over with the hood up:confused: and they are smog exempt too.:rolleyes:

nahhh it's all good rebuilt the Carb and tuned it up after i bought it.:cool:

So I'm in the middle of installing these...oh what fun:rolleyes: Started Saturday morning, and still not done. Have them in, just can't get the y-pipe to seal to the headers. keeps leaking:(

So I'm in the middle of installing these...oh what fun:rolleyes: Started Saturday morning, and still not done. Have them in, just can't get the y-pipe to seal to the headers. keeps leaking:(

The fun of aftermarket parts, haven't a single part yet that doesn't need some sort of mod to make work right.







Jeff - :navajo:

They had the smog police set up around the corner last week. glad I didn't take the truck anywhere, or I would have got nailed with the leak:rolleyes:

I'm Glad Minnesota doesn't have smog rules that we have to follow. It's straight pipe nation where I live.

Get these on yet?

Yes, I got the headers on last weekend, but still dealing with leaks:( I played more with them today. Solved the leak I was going for, but she is still leaking somewhere else:rolleyes: The drive by wire makes it really dif###ult to judge where it's coming from.

on the plus side, I must have picked up 15-20hp easy. Big differance! It really flows now.:thumbsup: I havn't run the programer with it yet...mostly because it's not needed so much now.

It did sound super bad azz though with no exshaust on though:cool:

Did you use the stock stud and nuts that came with the truck?

Did you reuse the factory metal manifold gaskets??

If you answered yes to either one of them, this very well could be your issue, the stock studs and nuts are to be replaced with bolts, preferably Stage 8 locking bolts.

The factory metal gaskets are supposed to be able to be reused, I NEVER reuse these, $200 or not, it's not worth the possibility of them leaking, PERIOD!!!

I see no reasoning to as why the DBW would be an issue for not being able to diag where the leak is coming from, cable actuated or DBW should make zero difference as to being able to find the leak, all it does it open and close the throttle, the leak should be happening when you accelerate the engine, so DBW should give you the same rate for engine acceleration, if not give the engine a little RPM's and then "Blip" the throttle and that will give you the rise in exhaust pressure your looking for, to determine the leaking areas.

And Aldive says he wants dyno proof of the HP gains, included is a link so you can get him the proper dyno info:

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=41







Jeff - :navajo:

i did reuse the factory studs on all but 3 bolts. Those needed to be replaced because they were too long. I did not use the factory gaskets, I used the ones that came with the headers. The driver side is a piece of cake, the passenger side sucks the big one. almost all the bolts are only reachable by a hand wrench, and even that is tricky. Most a socket will not even go on.

As far as the DBW, it only makes it hard because you can only control the gas from the cab, not under the hood like the good old days. This makes it really hard when your by yourself.
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i did reuse the factory studs on all but 3 bolts. Those needed to be replaced because they were too long. I did not use the factory gaskets, I used the ones that came with the headers. The driver side is a piece of cake, the passenger side sucks the big one. almost all the bolts are only reachable by a hand wrench, and even that is tricky. Most a socket will not even go on.

As far as the DBW, it only makes it hard because you can only control the gas from the cab, not under the hood like the good old days. This makes it really hard when your by yourself.
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Same problem I had with my JBA headers they leaked always I could never fix the leaks due to crappy welds. I sent them back to the manufacturer they were pure crap!. There is a guy on this site that makes them though. I bought a set of his for my V8 Explorer and they worked great no leaks.

Well I keep getting closer, but they are still leaking:( I'm going to call JBA and see if I can just take it there place and they can deal with it:rolleyes:

Find something that will fit snug inside the tailpipe and put one of those quick disconnect air fittings to it. Then hook it up to your compressor and turn the pressure up to a few PSI. Then follow the hissing.

http://garyswholesaleinc.com/GarysCustom/images/QUICJ.jpg

Find something that will fit snug inside the tailpipe and put one of those quick disconnect air fittings to it. Then hook it up to your compressor and turn the pressure up to a few PSI. Then follow the hissing.

http://garyswholesaleinc.com/GarysCustom/images/QUICJ.jpg

I thought about that or go get a cheap fog machine;)