Just trying to find out what oil is most common. i'm not worried about brand at this time.

Your owners manual should determine what weight oil you are using!

5W30 in the winter 10W30 in summer but when I lived in a warmer climate it was 10W30 all year round.

the owners manuel does say, but a lot of companies have been recommending differents weights for different vehicles. i switched to the 5W30 for the winter and will probably go back to 10W30 for the summer.

I use Mobil 10W-30 Tri-synthetic. It's not one of the choices. Oh well...

I use Castrol GTX 10W30 Synthetic, its not listed.

We use Mobile 1 synthetic.. (10w 40).. still going strong at 229k miles.. (39k in the last 10 months)..

~Mark

I run 10W30 Moble 1 all year round. It does not get thick in the winter like regular oil...

Ford changed their recommended oil to 5W-30 a couple years back. I'm not sure why. I always put 10W-40 in my 92 and for my first oil change on my 98 they put in 10W-40 also. Therefore I voted 10W-40

i didn't realize so many people used synthetic but i heard the ones that did prefered the 5W50. i was also hoping a moderator would extend the choices b/c it limited me to 5. sorry guys. honestly, no offense intended, i just didn't relize synthetic MOTOR oil was so popular. all my cars in the past always leaked when i used the synthetic so i havn't used it in years.

that means the sludge in your regular oil filled and clogged up your engine leaks:):):):):):):;);)

i also was hoping to get responses about using a 5W... oil. i know the theory about how motors now a days are much "tighter" and do not require such a thick oil, but was wondering what people on here thought.

5W30 Amsoil Synthetic.

Originally posted by olivesman
i also was hoping to get responses about using a 5W... oil. i know the theory about how motors now a days are much "tighter" and do not require such a thick oil, but was wondering what people on here thought.

5W is not thick, it's thin. The higher the number, the thicker the oil is. As oil gets hotter, the flow quality improves. You want to use oil with a low first number (like 5W) in cold climates to help with starting.

Before the multi-grades became available, some people put in 40 or 50 weight oil before selling high mileage vehicles. This supposedly stopped some of the minor leaks.

oil?! WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN OIL!!!!

I added 10w30 synthetic.......just cause that's what I use. :)

good old 10w30 for now, but i will go to 10w30 synthetic and all other fluids will be changed to synthetics at my next oil change.

Originally posted by Peter Weber
5W is not thick, it's thin.

thanks man, i had no clue! http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif

I stick with the 5W30 that the newer Explorers are supposed to use. Usually just the regular stuff, not synth.

with thicker oil you could simply have hard time at start-up in freezing weather. need more cranking power. 10W30 worked for me for a long time...... will see for how long.

No leaks at 91,000 miles. The first owner used 5W-30 Valvoline.

I use Castrol gtx 10-30 all-year because I drive alot of freeway.
I was using synth. but my seals started to get moist . So I switched back, I guess the synth. is so "slick" that on high mileage motors start leaking around the seals.

I take good care of my truck now, 10w-30 every 3500miles. BUT a few years ago, my first wife left me and took the explorer. I got it back in the divorce, but in the mean time she managed to put 27,000 miles on one oil change. When I got it back it had six inches of trash inside and the same oil and filter that I had put on months earlier. The oil came out like cold pancake syrup. I changed the oil four times in a week and and after all twenty quarts had been run through it, it finally came out mostly clean.

That was four years ago and now BamBam has 154,000 miles and is still running strong. Maybe at 200k, I'll overhaul the engine and see if there was any perminant damage.

Wow.. you got some miles on that thing. Ill feel bad when mine gets to a hundred. Im in denial that its "old".

Darkman, that sucks! I heard of someone going 100,000 miles because he read that it didn't require any tuneups until 100,000 miles. Said it finally caught fire or something!
Anywho... since Quaker State is now an official sponsor of Vegas, I'll now be using the Quaker State ultra synthetic 5w-30.

I use 10W40 all the time. I know the 10 is thicker but what's the 40 for? Would there be a benefit to switcher to 30? What about synthetic? Why do so many people use synthetic? Just curious...

5W30 in winter, 10-30 in summer, replaced every 3000 kms. Yes, I said kms. My Dad has done this for 40 years and has gotten some amazing miles out of his engines. Oil is cheap, engines aren't. And yes, I am aware that todays oils are better than the oils of 40 years ago and do not break down as quickly, but as far as I am concerned, if it is turning black, it is "breaking down" to some extent.

Also I like doing stuff on my truck, so I don't mind, and I bike to work all year, so we only put about 10,000kms on in a year - about 3 oil changes per year.

Also do you guys know if Amsoil is available in Canada? I have seen alot on this site about it, never heard of it. I usually use Quaker State.

actually, the blackness in the oil comes from the carbon you get when burning gasoline. the only way to illiminate the problem is turning your rig into a LPG burner. that stuff is rated like 103 at the pump.

Just curious what every one uses.

amoil all the way !!!!!
series 2000 0-30,dual remote bypass filtration system
that I have mounted in the grill.

Mobil 1 5W-30

so, what's the consensess on the best synthetic oil(besides amsoil and redline)?

I have used Mobil 1 10-30W for the hot Texas weather, A/C on and towing. Changed over when my new 93 EB 8K, now it has 105 w/o any problems. Understand new Corvettes come with Mobil 1 as the factory fill and that Porsche now uses some brand of synthetic, but have not verified this as fact. As I live close to Ft. Hood, I do know the Army's tank turbine engines use synthetic oil and those are very expensive engines! MikeTEC

:bounce: I use royal Purple in my three Fords. Still going strong!

10w30, mobile 1

quaker state synthetic is the way to go. you get more miles per change off synthetic. i know there are also other benefits of synthetic.

this is what's in mine :

10-30 Motorcraft
20-50 Havoline
20-50 castrol
20-50 Supertech


hmmm i don';t think i forgot any.....i don't care....oil is oil....plus i'm gonna rebuild pretty soon anywyas, so i could care less what kinda oil is in it...

I switched over from 5w-30 regular to 5w-30 Mobil 1 on my last oil change and I can tell a difference already. It runs a little smoother and gets a hair better mileage. Still not sure if it's worth 3x as much as the regular oil but if I go longer between changes and get a little better mileage it may be. I have always changed my oil at 3000 miles. How much longer can I go on synthetic?

I go 5000 with M1. You can go 7000, if you change your filter at about 5000.

Someone i forget who did a test with mobile 1 and i think they went 10000 on it with no problems. Try a search on Oil Analysis

I have been using Castrol Syntec 5w-50 for several years in both my 94 Explorer and my 85 BroncoII, both stock. Before that, I used Mobil 1 5w-30 in my 79 Honda Accord. Both oils worked great for me. The Honda was parked at over 250K miles with a head gasket leak (known weakness), the BII has 210K miles and is going strong, and the Explorer has 94K and purrs like a kitten. For the price and performance, the Syntec gets the win. I put the BII through some abuse that I didn't expect it to survive when I lost all coolant and had to drive about 20 miles to the nearest supply. The engine got so hot that the pistons swelled tight inside the cylinders, and it wouldn't restart at first. After cooling down for about 20 minutes, it restarted fine (with some antifreeze added, of course). That was about 70K miles ago, and I still haven't had to open the engine up for repairs. I don't think many non-synthetic oils would have held up nearly as well.
I have to wonder why many of you change oil weights from summer to winter, especially with synthetics. In warm weather, the only viscosity number that makes much difference is the second one. The first number is the winter rating. With synthetics, the numbers really don't mean much, as the oil really doesn't change viscosity with temperature changes like the old non-synthetics do. Lighter oils are easier on the engine all year around, as they are easier to pump and thus have lower parasitic losses, resulting in better mileage.

i have 93k + on my baby now.... i just put in mobil 1 tri-synthetic 10w30...and a fram tough guard filter..... also, as of yet i have found no leaks......

10W-30 synthetic for me.

Not on the list. 0W30 Amsoil synthetic.

Mobil 1 Tri-Syn. 5w30 w/Mobil 1 filter

Since winter's here, wait...or summer?? Today's (11/28/2001) high is gonna be close to 80 degrees. Anyways...since winter's here, I switched from Mobil 1 Tri-syn 10W-30 to Mobil 1 Tri=Syn 5W-30. It's even better than 10W30 in all conditions. So now I'm thinking of using 5W-30 year-round.

Pennzoil 10w40 all year. Every motor we have rebuilt after using this oil has had o ring groove and has been extrememly clean.

Castrol GTX 10w30, No particular reason but it works.

Castrol Syntec 10w-30............and everynow and theni use Valvoline MaxLIfe...

Motorcraft 5w30.

I use 5W30 synthetic in the winter and 10w30 synthetic in summer. Down there in Georgia there's no reason to drop down to 5 weight as it is thinner for better flow during start up in cold climates.

Originally posted by Bashman
I use 5W30 synthetic in the winter and 10w30 synthetic in summer. Down there in Georgia there's no reason to drop down to 5 weight as it is thinner for better flow during start up in cold climates.

.... and better gas mileage. I run 0w30 in FLORIDA.

anyone use valvoline? I use 10w30, nothing special, not "maxlife" or anything. It's good oil, never had any problems with it.

now my truck has 106K+ and has quaker state synthetic 4x4 in it and a penzoil filter.......

MOBIL- 1, cost a liittle more but I believe it is worth it, Just my $.0025 on the subject

Ford Motor Company
5w20 Synthetic blend

I read all Fords should run 5w-something so I switched to synthetics and 5w-something at the same time. I thought Pensoil was cheaper so I ran it. But the only 5w weight is full syntetic and at Walmart, it cost the same as Mobile 1. Either way, my engine temp. went down and it (feels) smoother. But I did not notice any encrease in fuel milage. I have 127K.

http://www.quakerstate.com/images/products/oil_synthetic4x4.gif Quaker State 4X4 synthetic blend 10w30 http://www.quakerstate.com/images/products/oil_synthetic4x4.gif

I'm using 5w-30 Valvoline MaxLife. Change it every 3000 miles along with a motorcraft filter. I am also using Engine Restore ( the stuff in the silver can). I went from, when i bought it with 120k, having to add a quart between oil changes to now, at 156k, not having to add any. Don't know if it is the oil or the additive, but I'm extremely happy with the results. Especially considering the stress I put my engine under with my heavy foot and the mountains here in Asheville, not to mention the heat.

5w30 Mobil Drive Clean Synthetic Blend. $2.25 a Quart. Used to run Mobil 1. Got tired of spending $60 bucks an oil/filter change on my two trucks. Purolator Pure 1 filters. No worries:D

I run 10w30 year round up here in Alaska. Even at 20 below. We plug all our vehicles in up here in the winter using block heaters. Keeps the engine warm. Also I have just purchased an auto start so if it gets too cold my X will start up every 2 hrs and run for 5 minutes while I'm asleep.

Ya Gotta Luv these Autostarts!!!

150, 000 miles in 7 years. Took possession from the dealer and was changing the oil within an hour. Pennzoil 5W-30 from day one. Oil changes with Gunk Motor Flush every 3-4000 miles and Ford FL-1A filters. Not a single engine problem and never have to add oil between changes. She finally gets OE shocks replaced this week.

castrol GTX 5/30 the only ive ever used in it

I was advised by Ford Australia that Ford changed their original recomendation of 10W40 to 5W30 because they could not achieve thier claimed fuel consumption on the 10W40.

While I have been following this recommendation for a trial period of 2 years I will now be going to a the thicker 10W40. I have in the past had trouble with an early model Mazda engine which relied on oil pressure to maintain timing chain tension and my Explorer is making the same intermitant chain noises.

When I asked Ford service about this they claimed that the engine had a rear timing chain which was suffering the same fate as my old Mazda. I would have thought that in this age ratchet type chain tensioners would be the norm, but apparently not.

Oh well I am confident that the 10W40 will increase the oil pressure and that will in turn apply more pressure on the chain tensioner.

What do you think ?

I run the cheapest oil wal-mart sells. I have over 100k on it and it still get 19 mgs highway and starts one the 1st try everytime. And of course turbines use synthetics, that's why they were invented. A reciprocating motor will never get as hot as a turbine. I know I'm an aviation mechanic.

Heavier wt in the summer, lighter wt in the winter, but always Mobil One.

Switched from whatever the quick lube places put in there to 10w30 M1 on '91 X. Will change '02 X to 5w30 M1 at 1000 miles, and change it every 5000 miles. Using K&N Gold Filter in '91, Using Motorcraft filter in '02. Have a 93 Toyota V6 that gets 5W30 M1 and K&N Gold filter.

I'm sold on synthetics because of the added protection. Had one of my vehicles overheat and warp the heads ($3000). Wasn't using synth, and not sure if it would have help protect the engine, but the specs are so much better temp wise that it's cheap insurance.

I will change my out of warrantee cars every 7500 on synthetics, In warantee will be changed at the "Normal" driving interval using synthetics.

Fumoto drain valves on all cars!

Motorcraft filter and Mobil Drive Clean 5W30 every 3,000 miles.

The manufacturer recommends 5W30 for a reason. Why second-guess them?

For the life of my X, it has been running the cheapest wal-mart brand oil.

I was wondering if switching to syntheitic this late in its life (133k) would yield any benefits? I know how synthetics supposedly can help out a lot of things in your engine, but my main question is about using it after running el cheapo oil for years.

There are two schools of thought on this issue. Some say the change will cause leaks; I personally love synthetic and would never use anything else. Many have changed in older motors.

Good luck.....

Besides my X I also have my "Baby". My 88 Mustang GT. It has a slightly modified 5.0 thats an ass kicker.
When I purchased her back in 88 I ran the factory oil for about 2000 miles, dropped the oil, ran real oil till it hit 5000 miles and then started Mobil 1. She's got 260,000 miles on her now, never had any major engine problems and she still runs strong. I'm sold on synthetics. I also use them in the tranny and rear end.

Anyone here who has experienced leaks from switching to syn late in your truck's life?

Will I gain any benefits from switching at 133k?

well I figured I'd give it a try at 104k. As of yet, no leaks and I've been told that the synthetic will clean out the deposits the old dyno oil has built up over the years. I'm changing the oil at 7500, so we'll see what it looks like then.

:chug: :chug:

I'm also concered about that(changing to syn. after many years of reg. oil changes) has anyone changed over from reg. oil to syn. when the vehicle has over 100,000 miles? I run Wix oil filters and valvoline max life 10w-30 oil. No troubles here at 146,000, no burning, no leaking...

Oil... you mean there is supposed to be oil in my rig :D

Only if that red light is really glowing bright!...or so I heard....

naw, that red light thing is for mopars only.

:chug: :chug:

What exactly does it mean when oil has the API Certified symbol on it? I've been using Formula Shell 5-30 in my Explorer since the day I brought it home. (a few months ago :D ) Don't forget a Purolator Pure One. Quaker State synthetic blend ATF in the transfer case and power steering.

I've run Mobil 1 10W30 in my truck since I got it at 59,000 miles. Rear main seal has a tiny leak now at 96,000 but it doesn't even leak enough to leave any spots on the driveway.

Just switched over to Synthetic fluids all around!

I'm using all 5W30 ROYAL PURPLE. Anyone else use Royal Purple?

http://www.royalpurple.com/images/bottle158.gifhttp://www.royalpurple.com/images/logo158.gif

Mobil 1 Cocktail

Summer= 2qts 5w30 + 3 qts 10w30
Winter = 3qts 5w30 +2 qts 10w30

Originally posted by DEROCHA
Mobil 1 Cocktail

Summer= 2qts 5w30 + 3 qts 10w30
Winter = 3qts 5w30 +2 qts 10w30

Why?

Better gas mileage... of course;)

Originally posted by AlaskanJack
Just switched over to Synthetic fluids all around!

I'm using all 5W30 ROYAL PURPLE. Anyone else use Royal Purple?

http://www.royalpurple.com/images/bottle158.gifhttp://www.royalpurple.com/images/logo158.gif

but that's not a full synthetic {unless you go to the race line $$$$}

I went to Amsoil and never looked back.

Well said Bill.

For some reason I just got my e-mail notification today that there was activity on this thread...

Anyway in respone to Aldive, Rick is partly correct. I use 5w30 because of the manufacturer recommedation, but only a few qts because it just seams to be too light (hey I grew up on 10w40). If I had to choose one then it would be 10w30 all the time. The Winter sees more of the 5 because it flows faster than 10 at cold start ups and that is were most engine wear occurs. (Not everyone has a block heater like AlaskanJack).

I've been lucky in that I have found Mobil 1 in a 5qt jug for $19...

Originally posted by William Schumacher
but that's not a full synthetic {unless you go to the race line $$$$}

I went to Amsoil and never looked back.

It's not full synthetic!!! Man at the prices I paid for this stuff, it better be. I am paying like $8 qt for the motor oil, tranny fluid, power steering fluid and then $12 something for the 16 oz bottle of purple ice for coolant. Heck I bought a 5 gallon container of the gear oil and paid $117 for it.

MOBIL 1 10w30

Originally posted by AlaskanJack
It's not full synthetic!!! Man at the prices I paid for this stuff, it better be. I am paying like $8 qt for the motor oil, tranny fluid, power steering fluid and then $12 something for the 16 oz bottle of purple ice for coolant. Heck I bought a 5 gallon container of the gear oil and paid $117 for it.

thats the info I got from the place I was getting it from....WWW.Hiperfuels.com in fact, I still have a full case oif it with the hiperfuels stickers on the bottles.
I wanted to get extended drain intervals,and NEEDED to know that my oil was indeed a full synthetic.
I was told that the Race lineup of oils were full synthetics,but the prices were through the roof ?

edit below........
I just went to the hiperfuels site and they now list these oils as full synthetics ???
I would try to get intouch with Royal Purple and find out about this if I was you,if your changing oil every 5-7 k,it won't be a problem at all.

I was curious..what can I say ?
spoke with someone that was nice enough to stay on the phone even though I told him off the bat I'm an Amsoil customer/dealer{a dealer only to get it for myself at cost}

what he said is this oil goes along way with a bypass setup {standard full flow and a bypass type filter}
he's running it on his Dodge truck right now.

this isn't a full synthetic oil,since the additives come in a mineral base.
However,they may be one of the few that mentions the additives coming in a mineral base package.

Amsoil or RP.....you can't go wrong either way,
but I'm pro Amsoil !

Originally posted by Rick
Oil... you mean there is supposed to be oil in my rig :D

Yes Rick, there is supposed to be oil in your rig. Unless you'd rather have your engine seize. Ha Ha

Saw the pics. I like. Like the tranny temp guage and tranny filter. I want one. Hey that Amsoil SDF57, ¿Isn't that the one that Amsoil calls for on our engines? Been a while since I changed mine so I dont remember. ¿How did you hook that thing up?

Nic :, that Amsoil SDF-15 is the full size engine oil filter.
I use that and a bypass {BP-100} in a dual remote bypass filter setup.

the Amsoil SDF-57,is a smaller filter that I needed for clearance issues where my remote tranny filter is located.

On the remote mount for the tranny filter is a place to add the sensor that you would also buy when you order a gauge,gauge housing {pod}then just wire it up !!

Mobil1 baby

Mobil1 baby

Mobil 1 !!!!!

I swap between a mix of that valvoline highmileage and quakerstate 4x4 or just amsoil it all depends on the size of my wallet at the time.

just switched to 5w30 synthetic about a month ago and i love it....great stuff...Mobile 1 all the way...:D

5-30 penzoil

Mobil 1 5w-20

motomaster!!!!


Dont know what motomaster is do you??? Dont have Canadian Tire stores do you??? Well :p

5W-30 Pennzoil conventional oil and Motorcraft filter every 2500 miles. I am advised that higher viscosity can cause hydrodynamic pumping pressure issue. My 4.0 SOHC knocked more on synthetic. I figure Ford recommends 5W-30 for a reason. Who am I to second guess? 102,000 miles and no oil-related problems.

I run 10w-30 in my truck (OHV) and 5w-30 in the wifes (SOHC) I use to run stright 40w in my first truck. It burned oil kinda, but what do want from a 2.3 with 200k-300k on it. :rolleyes:

right now Mobil 5w30, it was on sale, last oil change i used Advanced Auto brand 5w30, i'm just using whats cheap because it leaks and i'm not sure if it burns at all, but i have to add about half a quart ever week and a half so i don't wanna be using the expensive stuff!

in my Car i ran Valvoline Max-life 5w30 for a while, right now i have Castrol GTX in it and i think i'm gonna switch to the Valvoline 5w30 Durablend partial synthetic and keep changing it every 3 thousand miles, i figure this way with partial synthetic and the regular oil change the motor will be cleaner and last longer

i usually run 10w30 in my car in the summer but i think once i switch to the durablend i will stay with 5w30,


in my 90 F-150 i run the 10w30 sometimes 10w40, and its usually cheap stuff like Supertech or Advanced auto brand

Six Dyno pulls have convinced me that RP syn in the entire drive train will increase H.P also, not alot but a measurable amount, has been said in privious posts syn reduces parisitic drain, thus increasing MPG (slightly) a few extra ponys are also in the equation.
I think all syns are perhaps the same, me, I am just partial to the color of RP, as a streeter only I need all the HP I can muster even if it's only a mental thing, am surrounded by ricers on a daily basis, some win, most lose:)

Please post the dyno runs showing increase in power.

188 RWHP, non RP, 4 days later, same weather conditions, RP in engine, rear diff and powerflushed auto tranny, 193 RWHP, not a scientific study by any means but something nevertheless

Right now I'm doing a Castrol Syntec blend of 5w 30. As soon as I do a few more oil changes with it I will switch to full Castrol Synthetic

I'm using Shell Rotella 15W40 in the 1993 Limited ever since.. mileage now is 212K. On the other hand.. the 1997 Limited uses Motorcraft 5W30 and I change oil and filter religiously every 3K miles.

Just wondering what using straight 30 wt oil would do in my 94 XL 4x4? It was good enough for dad right? Wondering if it will help with low oil pressure down here in Hot Oklahoma.

5w 30 castrol synthetic

Mobil 5w30

Switched to Mobil 1 5w30 about 500 miles ago (at 80,000).

I just use regular 5w30 walmart brand in my 93 and change it regularly. I would like to go to synthetic but I have leaks and I'm not wasting money on oil like that. I add about a quart or less every 3000 miles

Rumors say Advance Auto Parts oil (what I use) is Havoline. Experimenting with Mobil Drive Clean. Mobil 1 leaks out too much.

i thought that the Advance auto brand was Havoline but it says right on it that its not,


so who knows

Mobil 5W30 every 2500-3000 miles

Motorcraft 5W20 blend which is what the manual reccomended for the 2003

In my 1993, I've got Chevron Supreme 10W-30. In my Mounty I have whatever the dealer I got it from decided to put in there. I have already purchased a case of Mobil 1 0W-20 for the next oil change, however.

I have been running Mobil 1 15w-50 for 4 years. I would probably run a lighter weight if I lived elsewhere, but here the coldest it ever gets is 70-75 degrees.

I have been running Mobil 1 15w-50 for 4 years. I would probably run a lighter weight if I lived elsewhere, but here the coldest it ever gets is 70-75 degrees.

I run 0 w 30 here in Florida; very similar climate as yours.

I use Quaker State 10w30 4x4 synthetic. Seems to be holding up well.

I used Motorcraft products from Walmart. For $10.07, I get Motorcraft 5W/30 synthethic blend for only $1.42/qt and the FL-820S filter for $2.97. I like keeping my oil fresh, so I change it about every 2500 mi. (10 to 12 weeks). Mostly city driving and not much highway.

:rolleyes: valvoline 20-50 here. in south florida and previous owner never took care of engine. now it knocks LOUD with 170,000 on it.

Poll closed. The thread can still be replied to.