Driving to work, in a big backup, last Wednesday and the Check Engine light comes on. No fluids problem, no rough running, no stalling, no overheating, no decrease in mileage or performance...just the idiot light.

Take the truck to a chain outfit and have the diagnostics run this past Saturday. Computer says insufficent flow through the EGR valve. Shop says new vavle and tube for almost $300 in parts. They say dealer only part and atleast a 5 day delivery. I get the feeling that someone is blowing smoke.

I don't approve the repair, pick the truck up and the light is off. Drive it 3 days and then the light comes back on, what's up with that?

I don't have high mileage, I don't burn oil, I don't off road or "race" the truck.

So, why for is it doing this?

Why can't I take the thing apart and clean it and put it back together?

If the thing is shot, is it a dealer only part?

Comments--opinions?

The Chilton's I have is very basic, but includes a listing of OBD-II codes. I'm going to have my shop pull mine tomorrow. Mine has been on for at least 10K, and the only reason I'm going to get them pulled is the condition my plugs were in.

I changed them out last weekend at 47K. Yes, they're rated to 100K in the 97 3L I have, but the Haynes correctly points out that just b/c they work doesn't mean their happy. I lost my mind and bought Bosch +4's, I'm sure I could have bought any platinum and gotten the same results. Also put new plug wires on, the old ones were 4 yrs and counting old.

At any rate, the plugs on the driver's side had the center electrode worn to almost a point, with the outer electrode having significant erosion. The passenger side plugs were almost perfect (I would wait until at least 60K if I were you).

This to me says I have a bad oxygen sensor on one pipe, and gives me motivation to get the codes pulled.

Go to another shop, take a Chiltons with you, ask to see the printout. An oxygen sensor is a lot cheaper than an EGR valve.

Regards,
Brian in CA

They're a sponsor on this site, I emailed about some mirrors, they were SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper than the "discount" offered by the local dealer's parts counter.

Thanx for the reply...I'm the 3rd owner of the truck and it has 78K miles on it, I have no idea if it has ever been tuned---plugs, like oil, are cheap. I'll pull them this weekend and see what's up...suppose I should get a Chilton or haynes while I'm at it. Afrter all, i have the Service manual for my Miata and drive it a lot fewer miles then the truck. again, thanx.

Something to check on just in case. I had that happen to my Explorer, and it turned out that my air intake tube came loose from the airbox. There is a maf at the airbox and a maf at the throttle body. If the two #'s don't match, you get a light.

I'd suggest the Haynes manual. I've got one, and you can pull codes without buying a code reader by jumpering two terminals under the hood and counting the flashes on the check engine light. The Haynes manual tells how to do it.

Good Luck!!

no he can't. he's got a 97. Needs an OBDII reader. Nothing else will do.

That dumb light makes me mad, I planned a small trip from Los angeles to Tucson (8hour drive), i was about halfway and the gears start slipping when i was driving a constant speed on the freeway, then the stupid check engine light comes on...i was like GREAT! Anyways i turned around stopped at a ford dealer to ask them what it could be, they told me some bullshit and plus it would take 2 hours for them to get to the car not to mention a $70 service charge...so i started back home and as i approach la the car was running as good as new...never had that problem since and that was back in Oct. 00 sucks to be me don't it? I had a rebuilt engine put in about a month before that too so i think ford dealers play games with the cars and that engine light

Your EGR valve is not likley the problem. There is a electric solenoid that controls the vacuum going to the EGR valve, when this solenoid malfunctions the EGR valve won't open and that will set a code. We find alot of them that are bad when we do a smog test. Another possible problem is the sensor that feeds back information to the computer that tells it wether or not the valve opened. That is called the DPFE sensor (differential pressure feedback exhaust sensor). Find a good shop and have them check it out for you. It might seem a bit more expensive but in the long run it is cheaper than a shop that is just going to throw parts at it.
Scott