Hey guys I was just wondering whos going to attempt the 44 swap next? Are you going to be using any special setups? Kampys looks good and Riffman is almost done! Robbie J

I am having an axle made now, to early bronco specs, but high pinion and discs. It might be a while until I do the actual install, as I am just collecting a piece at a time right now. I am waiting for the OXlocker to be released so I can install that. I am considering going with Coby's twister arms, and I need to find out what type of steering linkage I am going to use, same for the track bar. I am going to go with 36" tires, either MT Baja Claws or the Baja Belted Radials, which sould fit with the addition of new fenders from Perry's fab-n-fiber. I am going to mount them the 15x10 steel street locks. I will probably reuse my Superlift 5.5" lift coils, and Old Man Emu 2" lift springs in the rear, along with the superlift SOA conversion that is already installed, or I might try a buggy spring setup. And of course the Moser 5 on 5-1/2 axles. I may be forgetting a thing here or there, but the costs look something like this:

Dana 44/with discs and 4.10's = $550
Oxlocker = $650
Twister arms = $550
Steering Linkage = $150?
Tires/Wheels = $1000
Fenders = $300
OME springs = $300
rear Axles = $300

Looks like yer set on the right track Mudd....Now, those street bead locks....all I have read is they are mearly for appearance, and they arent extremely tough....Just thought I'd pass along what I've been told
Pete

Hey Mudd, here's a link to the place that both Riff and I got our steering from, I like it alot. www.performanceunlimited.com
The steering setup is about $350, and they offer a track bar also, but the stock one is easily shortened. If you plan to run 36's don't even bother with 4.10 gears, 4.56 is a minimum, 4.88 would be better, that's my opinion. That's alot of truck going through alot of air, do the 4.0L a favor and gear it a little stiffer.

Good luck!

this might be a stupid question but a self proclaimed "Certified" mechanic told me that you could with a little modification put a dana 44 into the TTB from a ford F-150 that had IFS. And thereby keep the IFS up front. Thoughts opinions laughter.....all welcome?

Originally posted by Kampy
Hey Mudd, If you plan to run 36's don't even bother with 4.10 gears, 4.56 is a minimum, 4.88 would be better, that's my opinion. That's alot of truck going through alot of air, do the 4.0L a favor and gear it a little stiffer.

I guess I am just worried about my gas mileage dropping off the face of the earth. I am already getting about 10.3 with 33's and 3.73 gearing.

I went from 33's and 3.73 to 33's and 4.56 and found the mileage (corrected of course) is about the same. I can get over 400 km/ tank if I'm easy on the stupid pedal. 4.10's and 36's will be a nightmare....just my 2 cents

Cheers

Dale

ps. Marvin. Yes you can drop a Dana44 IFS from an F-150 into a Explorer. It's alot of work and little benefit other than trackwidth.

i already have a reverse cut dana 44 done with 4 link and everything oh wait that was a dream btw mudd i get about 13-16 with 33's and 3.73 its wierd it doesn't matter if a flore it every where or drive it like grandma it still gets 13-16 it used to get better but all of sudden it just dropped

I will be doing the transformation once we move to Phoenix in March, but that's only if Fly-n-Hi has availability.

I'm picking up my High Pinion Dana 44 tomorrow.

Brett who is doing it for you? Are you?

If I can find someone who can make me all the swap parts I'll do it. One of the guys from the Co4x4 board has the EB 44 w/ discs for me for 200. Now all I need is the trackbar w/ mount, steering, radius arm mounts and a bigger set of balls!

Ryan, I'll be doing the swap. It's not happening anytime soon, but by the end of the summer.

Cool dude, I want to do that someday too. But now I am going to save up for my own house first. :) I just got hired on full time full benifits today so I am pretty dang happy! :D

Mudd, heres my personal experience on the mileage thing.

3.55 + 215's got about 20 mpg
3.55 + 31's got about 13 mpg
4.10 + 31's went back up to about 19 mpg
4.10 + 33's back to about 13 mpg
4.88 + 35's better than last setup but haven't checked yet. I'd guess around 17.

These are all highway mileages and I get the speedo corrected before I check, check it with cops radar and then change the speedo gear.

The reason behind it is while the rpm drops with taller tires and you would therefore think it should use less gas, it actually takes the engine away from it's torque peak and thats where an engine operates most efficiently. These engines seem to be real happy to run about 2200 - 2400 rpm and seem to be most effiicient around that rpm range.

In your case you have to use too much throttle to overcome all the resistance created by the mass of the tires which is agravated by the gearing.

Here's a somewhat easy formula to figure what gear you need for a given tire size. 10% - 10.5 % normally yeilds the best mileage, 12% gives the best power without running the motor to death. Ever see a gear chart with the shaded areas? That's what it's based on.

Heres an example, your setup stock: 28 inch tires times 10% = final drive ratio of around 2.80 . Thats where it should get the best mileage. Stock gearing: (3.73) rear times final tranny ratio (.75) equals an effective ratio of 2.797 . See how close that is?

Now you current setup, (still have the 2.797 effective ratio), tires, 32.5 tall, need a effective ratio around 3.25, in order to get there you would need to gear at 4.30 (4.30x.75= 3.22) close enough but they don't make them for the 35, that's why everyone goes with 4.56 w/ 33's, get a little more power without loosing mileage. (4.56x.75=3.42) Perfect for a 33 incher.

Thats why I geared mine at 4.88 (4.88x.75=3.66) with 35's and my mileage came back up. The engine doesn't have to work as hard.

Now keep in mind that because of the mass and weight and rolling resistance with big meats, the mileage will never come back to what it was stock. But as long as you're going to change gears make sure you go steep enough.

Sorry this was so long, I hope I didn't confuse anyone.

der dar.....you smart...huh huh huh http://members.aol.com/riffman80/confused.gif

4.88's it is. For those of you that bought the Steering linkage from Truckperformance.com, which version did you get for the $350? Trail, Race, or Rock ready? Do they custom make them, or am I going to have to modify them to fit my pitman arm?

Does anyone happen to know the measurements of the Early Bronco axle?

Okay, Got my Dana 44 today! However, I can't figure out the gear ratio. Any advice.....

Count the teeth? :D Umm no tags huh?

Originally posted by RFR2212
Looks like yer set on the right track Mudd....Now, those street bead locks....all I have read is they are mearly for appearance, and they arent extremely tough....Just thought I'd pass along what I've been told
Pete

So they don't hold aired down tires? THey aren't as tough as normal steel wheels? Hmm, I'll have to look around for something else then. :(

Originally posted by Brett
Okay, Got my Dana 44 today! However, I can't figure out the gear ratio. Any advice.....

You can guesstimate by turning the pinion and counting how many times it goes around with 1 full rotation of the wheel.

Yeah, I know that. I came up with a ratio of 2.1:1. I know that can't be right.

Mudd, they hold air...But the ring isn't all that strong....It's more for looks than actual usibility...grr....I dunno what the right word is...oh well...I'm tired
Pete