WHAT THE HECK IS THIS K&N DROP IN FILTER I KEEP HEARING ABOUT?

it's a replacement panel style air filter allowing better breathing for your engine, however if your thinking about one you may want to save up your pennies and go for a kkm tru-rev filter kit - they are by far the choice here for better performance on the 91-94 x's. you can do a search by hitting the search button to your upper right and find tons of threads on this subject if your interested.
todd

THANKS...I JUST LOOKED....SEEMS THEY ARE ONLY ABOUT $90? NOT BAD....EASY TO INSTALL?

took me twenty minutes - and that was with stoppin to chug a beer:D , be sure to clear your computer when your done.

todd

OK GOOD TO KNOW THAT IT'S NOT THE MOST DIFFICULT OF JOBS...NEXT QUESTION...RESET THE COMPUTER????
HUH????????? HOW????????

Originally posted by mgv366
OK GOOD TO KNOW THAT IT'S NOT THE MOST DIFFICULT OF JOBS...NEXT QUESTION...RESET THE COMPUTER????
HUH????????? HOW????????

disconnect the neg battery cable for half an hour and leave the headlight switch on.... then reconnect the cable and let the car idle for 10 minutes then go drive it around town

THAT'S IT? REALLY? PLEASE TELL ME YOUR NOT KIDDING!! LOL!!!

i am serious... that is how you reset the computer.... that is also how you clear prexisting trouble codes

These links should explain the details regarding K&N filters:

http://www.knfilters.com/filtercharger.htm

http://www.knfilters.com/facts.htm

http://www.knfilters.com/faq.htm

THANKS FOR THE LINKS...
NOW I'VE GOT TO MAKE THE DECISION AS TO WHICH IS BETTER...THE K&N OR THE KKN TRU-REV...
ANY OPINIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

the K&N FIPK and the KKM are both excellant choices. the drop in K&N is better than stock, but it uses the stock airbox which is more restrictive than an open filter element likr the other two.

the KKM cost half the price of the K&N FIPK.

www.kustomz.com

The proper procedure to reset the computer is to unplug the tester from the test port right after the first set of signals,needle sweeps,blinks.(whatever way your doing it). This tells the computer to clear the stored codes and will not require the computer to relearn the condition of your engine.

Originally posted by Speedfreak
will not require the computer to relearn the condition of your engine.

i thought the point was to have your computer relearn the engine calibrations so it takes full effect of what ever performance changes you've made?

OK ...which is the correct way to reset the computer? I like the simple disconnect the neg battery cable and come back in 1/2 hour..
The only question is...do i turn the headlight switch on before or after i disconnect the battery?

well i believe speedfreak is correct when it comes to clearing just the error codes we're going for more of a complete reset - that way the computer will relearn with the new equipment, i did the disconnect and headlight thing which was recommended by many here, as for when to turn them on, doesn't matter the point is to have a major drainage point for left over currnet in the system

OK...obviously I'm not the greatest car machanic in the world!! Leave the switch on to provide electric drainage? I though once the cable was disconnected there would be no pwer to anything? Can you tell I'm getting lost? LOL LOL

when you first disco the battery there is still power in the system (stored energy) thats being held in the system, by turning the headlights on it provides a major drain hence cleansing the system quicker

just unplug the battery, then turn on the headlight switch. then turn it off before you reconnect the battery.
you have to let it idle for a few minutes, then take it for a drive. after a little normal driving try flooring it to get into the higher rpms.

GOT IT...THANKS ALOT I REALLY APPRECIATE IT!!
ANY OTHER TIPS OR TRICKS YOU MAY HAVE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED

but be sure to use MY method:rolleyes: