Hey everyone,
I've been having a problem lately....My driver side door lock only unlocks when it wants to. Usually I have to crawl in through the passenger side and pull on the handle a few times before it unlocks. Sometimes, though, it does unlock right away.

Anyone run into this problem before? My roomate thinks it might be a loose wire somewhere because it does unlock eventually.

Any ideas, PLEASE let me know...This is very annoying.

Thanks in advance,
-Lloyd

my guess is the accuator is going bad

I have that same problem. It only seems to happen with the cold weather... I can't unlock it manually with the key or with the remote unlock. :confused: I took the door apart and nothing looks broken, so I'm stuck. Oh the looks I get when I'm bent over at school reaching my arm through for the inside handle...

That's weird, cause my key doesn't work to unlock manually either...I wonder if that means that it's the lock assembly itself rather than the actuator?

Anyone?

I really don't know... I've lived with it for a while now, and no one I've talked to had an idea easier than replacing the whole assembly and hoping that fixed the problem... when I had the door apart it didn't look like I could oil anything :banghead:

check that the catch isnt rusted shut or something. it wouldnt hurt to flood it in WD40 and see if that cures anything

I have the same problem and picked up an actuator today. It was 90 bucks :rolleyes: Looks like its gonna be a pain to install. I'm going out to install it now. I'll come back in a few days when I'm done installing it and tell you how it went.

Well, I'm not sure why Ford told me it would take them 2 hours to install it for me. The only reason it took me 2 hours was because the parts guy gave me the wrong part and I had to go back and get the right one. :rolleyes: Turns out this isnt my problem anyway. I think its a problem with the latch assembly. Oh well. :rolleyes:

Maybe they know their parts guy and were expecting him to screw up when they told you it would take 2 hours. :D

This isn't entirely on-topic here, but...

Both of the handles on the outside to open the back doors are kinda hard and now the driver's door is starting to do it. You have to pull up on one side of the latch and sometimes feel like the handle is going to break before it lets me in. Has anyone else seen this? Can I adjust something or do I need to replace parts? I haven't really looked at it, but I figured that as long as we're farting around in the doors today...

I had the same problem with my 97 sport. I found a thread in here there said I should use wd-40 and spray the latch. I did that and havent had the problem since. I live in Alaska and was having the problem when it got cold. I sprayed the latch this spring and it hasnt gotten cold since so im not sure if the reason im not having the problem any more is because of the wd-40 or because of the warm weather. I guess i'll find out this fall.:)

Howdy sports fans, I think I am having similar problems with the driver's door as you and I'll tell you what I found after nit picking obsevations.

Mine went bad while camping in the Bighorns the past 3weeks and I was hoping it was a broken rod retainer clip in the lock assy. Now that I am up here in E Glacier and have a garage I took the panel off and found nothing really out of order, but my key wouldn't unlock the latch but the power feature worked fine.

I finally found the latch assyt the job of putting one in made me ask for an appt at the Ford dealer in Cutbank. Looks like a real cluster-xxxx of a job

hope this might help you out\\

twomedicine

Yeah, I bought the latch a few weeks ago but I've been too scared to try to put it in. All those rods and stuff that need to be connected and the area is very tight. I think I'm gonna make an appointment as well.

Boy, that's very strange that my post was not complete as I wrote more about my findings:

The latch assy has a spring, if looking into the latch where it is to receive the striker bolt, that is supposed to hold a metal tab out of the way when the key is used so the rest of the stuff can move to lock or unlock the door via key.

Try looking into the receiver of the latch of your good door, the passenger side, to see if any differences are perhaps attrib. causes to your malfunction

Ford-parts network can send a latch assy to you for around $30. Not much money, but the task of putting one in doesn't look inviting with all the rods and keepers

Asking X24 a question about the actuator replacement if he looks at this:

I am guessing you had to drill out the rivet holding the actuator to the door metal. What did you replace the rivet with? Another rivet and grommet, or was a good old stove bolt and nut used?

And did you encounter any problems separating the actuator rod (bent like a U at the top) from the latch retaining grommet/hole?

I think if the latch is replaced the actuator would have to be removed for access, and perhaps the window channel unbolted too.

I may do the replacement myself, but living 100 mile round trip from parts might make it a stupid move

The rivit isnt holding the actuator in. It's holding a clip that the actuator snaps into. I just popped the actuator out and put the new one in. I wish I had done a little more reading on here because that wasnt my problem and now I have a $90 part sitting on my desk (for sale if anyone wants it). It wasnt very hard to get the rod out of the latch, but it was just a PITA because of the tight working area. I know a ford mechanic who said he would do the job for me and that when he does them he usually removes the window channel for easier access.

The little spring is what broke on my latch, too.

Thanks for the info, I am going out to see if my actuator snaps in and out too. I would have been drilling out that rivit since my Haynes Manual is kind of cryptic in that area of replacement/repair.

That tail end of the window channel does look as though it would be a major barrier to progress regarding the latch replacement

You might try ebay for selling that actuator. All of mine are good otherwise I'd be your buyer

Still I am not ruling out doing the job since it might not be as bad as it looks once certain parts are out of the way....but yes it is extremely tight and hard to see. I guess if all fails, duct taping the door shut for driving over to the dealer to bail me out of my miserable job would be the worst case scenario

For X24:

Good news is that if you take the window channel/track out the job looks like an easy job with maybe a few minor problems en route.

There is a cap bolt that took a 7/16 socket holding the tail of the track firmly to the door. It's accessed from the outside, not the inside of the door. The threads are within the bracket, so losing a nut is impossible. Then the track is only friction fit near the sill (top) where the internal track within the opening takes over. Simply pulling it downwards removes that track completely.

My only problem is that I don't see how the actuator "snaps" in to place. I applied a fairly good amount of force with my hand pulling and nothing happened. Does the bracket come along with the actuator when you say it snaps out? Or does the unit separate from the bracket? Maybe on mine I'll have to drill out that rivet, but I cannot see why yours would differ.

I boldly ordered that latch at Fordpartsnetwork.com tonight now that it looks like a cake walk of a job////

The bracket is silver color and the actuator has that rubber boot over the whole thing. Just put a screw driver between the bracket and the actuator to pry the bracket away from it. It's not that easy to do, but it's easier than drilling the rivet out and trying to rivet it back in.

I don't know if this helps, but I've got auto door locks and everytime I shut the driver side door, it locks all the doors. I looked into the latch ass'y with a flashlight and noticed that a very small, thin spring that holds the latch pin (you know, the thing you used to be able to snag with a coat hanger) up has rusted and broken off. Ford dealer tells me $150 for parts and then I have to tear thru the moisture seal to get at everything.

I guess that's why I have a remote! ;)

r.s.

r.s. & x24:

Thanks for your input. I am waiting on the latch assy from fordpartsnetwork.com It only cost $32 w/shipping. Hopefully it will be here Thursday eve (8/14).

I think that little spring you speak of is the one that sheared off in my assy, it's about the thickness of a mechanical pencil lead. And yes the watershield has to be peeled back for accessing the assy. And it's hard to say what other parts that Ford dealer needed to replace on yours. It almost sounds like something else is wrong with your system since you say that all doors lock just because you shut the driver's door, like the central control mechanism, and maybe that's why the more expensive parts est..

My remote works fine too for unlocking the door, but the key does not. I'd rather have everything working the way it's supposed to since the linkage from the lock cylinder on mine is dangling loose and once in a while it would jamb/catch on other parts when on its way up during power actuatuation.

The other night I found out that the actuator does separate from the bracket as X24 stated. I didn't do it just yet, but pins are holding the actuator within that bracket, one on each side. I think I can easily expand the bracket ears outward thus freeing the pins from their "bushings" and then drop the actuator to an angle whereby the linkage can be dropped.

Hopefully by Fri-Sat, depending on the arrival of the correct part, I will post my success and remaining steps of the completed job. Then you should be able to "cook-book" your repair work too///

on a 98 xpsort the drivers side lock will not work with key, only from inside pushing the button several times while pulling handle. Accuator or latch?

Hey, ton_e_montana,

Hard to say, but sounds like maybe a linkage is not connected, perhaps, or it could be something internally within the latch. If your linkage is disconnected from your cylinder arm I believe, like mine, the cylinder will rotate but doesn't do anything. If it's just a cylinder or its linkage you are lucky in that they are easy to replace/reconnect.

If your actuator is not working it probably won't make noise. I cannot see how an actuator linkage could come undone it is fashioned in a "U", unless the lever arm going into the latch itself breaks or for some reason doesnt do what it is supposed to do.

You'd really have to pull your door trim panel and peel back the watershield for a look-see inside to see what's going on.

twomedicine in smoke filled and very warm E Glacier, MT

Originally posted by ton_e_montana
on a 98 xpsort the drivers side lock will not work with key, only from inside pushing the button several times while pulling handle. Accuator or latch?
Thats the same problem that we have. The little spring broke. That's the only way I can get out of mine. My remote doesnt unlock it either. I have to open the back door, reach around and twist the button a little, while pressing the unlock button and eventually it will unlock.

Received the latch in the mail late this afternoon. Installed it tonight with some difficulty, but it works great and has a door closing sound like a new vehicle.

I think the key is removing the window track as I stated in an earlier post. Then disconnect all linkages possible before removing the latch. I had to twist the latch downwards into the bottom of the door just after disconnecting the actuator from its bracket, as x24 stated, and then it was in place for disconnecting the actuator linkage, electrical connectors, and then the "s" connection at the end of the interior door release lever rod.

After getting the latch outside of the door, the key cylinder rod can be removed as well as the door lock button linkage. I removed them and then installed them into the new latch quickly so I wouldn't forget their positions. The nice thing about the new latch was all the clips, and grommets were all ready to go, and the latch was pre-greased.

For me the hardest task was snapping that actuator back into its mounts in the bracket. After I was able to do so without breaking anything, the rest went back together easily. I did have to take a few breaks during the process because I lost patience several times and was ready and willing to break or bend something or other.

Maybe I will give it a shot. Thanks for the write up twomedicine.

How long did it take you to install it?

Yes, the job isn't that bad if you take your time. I think the heat & smokey air made it somewhat irritating of a task.

The time it took me was so broken up I cannot say how long, but from start to finish I'd give yourself at least 4 hrs. You at least will be able to take care of that actuator faster than I, but make sure you pay attention, or diagram where the linkages fit and also the wiring harness mounts/fasteners (one is into the window track tab and another into actuator bracket).

I also am a clean freak and took extra time to clean behind the watershield and also the backside of door trim panel. Also, I duct taped a few spots on that watershield like around the interior door latch since I could see evidence of outside air intusion. The dirt roads here are extremely dry and dusty.

I also adjusted my striker to perfection after installing the new latch. It now works so nice I almost wished the others would break so I'd have all new latches (not really, I think I'd rather change a rear axle seal than to mess with another latch)

Good luck, and if you need the diagram sent via email of the assy (it was sent to me by Torrie @ fordpartsnetwork.com) let me know since the bitmap is still on this computer////

Ok so my drive door lock has the not popping up problem as well. Worse in cold weather but none too good. Keyless entry doesnt help. Are you gentelmen telling me there is some confounded little spring deal in there that i have to mess with and or replace and not just get a new actuator? I hear my actuator trying to go, but it just doesnt have to power to pop the lock. Is there any way to get just the spring thing and not pay $150?

I guess i shouldnt complain after all the battles this truck has seen, but it sorta makes me want regualr locks and manual windows.

lo_jack,

Hard to say what's wrong with yours. You really should take the door panel and the water shield off the inside of the door so you can observe what's not working properly.

The spring we have been mentioning is a part located within the latch assy, not the actuator. As far as I could see, the latch cannot be opened to replace that $1.00 spring, unless the tack welds were drilled out for possible access to do so.

I agree about having simple manual windows and door locks.....these repairs drive the $/mile up on these vehicles.

When looking inside the door I found using a headlamp very helpful while fooling around to see what was wrong and then again for doing the replacement

Question: When you press the unlock button, does the door make a noise like it is trying to unlock, but doen't?

If so, it is probably just stuck, and needs several good long shots of grease and rust cutter.

My exp had this problem and after a couple of doses of the grease/rust cutter it works like new!

I sprayed WD40 all over all my latches. They all open much easier now. My drivers door is definately broken tho. The little spring is snapped right in half.

Yes mine was broken too, but nice and clean without rust. I think they got the springs from China. And yes, they need a good cleaning and lubing every so often

A note about using wd-40, something I have noticed about its use. Dirt and dust will be attracted to its residue, but if you use 100% silicone spray the dirt doesn't seem to gather where once applied. Also, I found that the stuff thickens up in below freezing weather; my semi-auto pistol would not send the action back all the way due to the thickening of the wd-40 I had sprayed it down with prior to some zero degree camping (I since used Mobile 1 on my pistol's action and it works fine in cold temps) I have used the silicone spray in my lock cylinders and used them in sub-zero weather without a problem

ok, I have the same broken little spring in my driver's side door. So, according to what Twomedicine said, what I have to do is get a whole new latch from Ford for ~$30, and install that? So there's no way to just get a new spring? Also how long did it take for the latch to get sent to your house? I'm probably going to be fixing this right away, I just took a look and found the broken spring. I'm afraid to take the whole latch out now cause I need my Exploder to get to school and I'm too big to crawl over the console if I can't get it back in right.

Well, I took it to the dealership yesterday, $73 out the door. The bill said it took them an hour labor and $30 for the latch. Not too bad to have it done while I was in class than for me to take a few hours w/ my arm's crammed inside the door.

Had same problem and dealer fixed it for one hour labor and $32 for part. The tech looked right at the door and showed me the little spring that is the culprit like so many in this thread have experienced. I was glad to know the issue I had wasn't a new one, thanks again everyone......

While this thread is extremely helpful in undersdtanding how the X's locking mechanism works to get the door to open, I'm having the opposite problem of getting the driver side door of my 96 to lock. The power lock engages all doors and activates the "theft" light. The doors lock automatically when the X starts to roll. Although this sounds good, the driver side door can be open when the rod is down, from the outside. Additioanlly, the key does not lock / unlock the driver side door, or any door. The key does work on the passenger side and rear gate to lock and unlock. After reading this thread I'm assuming the rod has disconnected itself from the lock. Any ideas, suggestions, etc?

Alan, I would suggest opening up the door and taking a look. I just replaced my latch on my 98 and it was a pain. I did a writeup in this other thread if you need it here is the link.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113217&page=1&pp=20

In the other thread I tried to explain how to replace the latch. If you open it up and all the rods are connected and the actuator is trying to work when you press the lock or unlock button then it has to be the latch.

I could do it again in no time but I must have starred at it forever trying to figure it out when I originally did it.

Mikeh

on my 98 sport, my driver side door wont lock. when i press the button it makes a noise and kinda slowly goes down, but it doesnt full lock, i can still open the door from the outside. It sounds like that is either that little spring or the actuator, were are going to check that out this weekend.

ANother thing is that when i put the key in the door it doesn't do anything. It just turns back and forth. Could that be the actuator??

Yes, the job isn't that bad if you take your time. I think the heat & smokey air made it somewhat irritating of a task.

The time it took me was so broken up I cannot say how long, but from start to finish I'd give yourself at least 4 hrs. You at least will be able to take care of that actuator faster than I, but make sure you pay attention, or diagram where the linkages fit and also the wiring harness mounts/fasteners (one is into the window track tab and another into actuator bracket).

I also am a clean freak and took extra time to clean behind the watershield and also the backside of door trim panel. Also, I duct taped a few spots on that watershield like around the interior door latch since I could see evidence of outside air intusion. The dirt roads here are extremely dry and dusty.

I also adjusted my striker to perfection after installing the new latch. It now works so nice I almost wished the others would break so I'd have all new latches (not really, I think I'd rather change a rear axle seal than to mess with another latch)

Good luck, and if you need the diagram sent via email of the assy (it was sent to me by Torrie @ fordpartsnetwork.com) let me know since the bitmap is still on this computer////


Do you still have the diagram? If so, can i give you my email address?

Are you kidding me? With all these problems, please post the diagram!
<Can you tell I'm having the same issue and JUST found this thread?!?!>
Karl

my door wont unlock on my 98. i took it apart and it looks like i have a bent rod in there so i messed with it a bit and it was working fine with the remote but then i stuck the key in there and it stopped again. i havent had time to do it again and then not stick in the key but i found that worked pretty well.

Check out my post on the door lock problem at

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1178984#post1178984