Hey Guys!
OK, I was trying to put off starting a thread like this until stuff got closer to done, but I have been asked so many questions in the middle of other threads, I thought I should.

This is the plan:
-SOA
-HP YJ D30 SFA
-35"s

As a lot of you guys know, I had the oppurtunity to have the work done by an expert at one heck of a good price.:D The SOA and SFA are being done by Cory at CRL Customs (http://www.crlcustoms.com) So, as far as the really technical stuff, I will have no idea since I am not the person actually doing the work.

OK, the first obvious question. "Why a D30?" I know most people instantly think of a D44 when they think of a SAS for an Explorer. The idea of a D30 hit me when I was planning on doing the project myself (which would have never become reality). I liked how the YJ D30 was about the same width, bolt pattern was the same, I thought leafs would be pretty easy (Wrong!), and $$$. So I started looking into the pros and cons of the D30, and after a lot of research, I felt it met my requirements for what I was looking for out of an axle. And to be honest, I think stock D44s (especially LPs) are a bit overated (yep, I said it). They aren't the strongest things on Earth like a lot of people seem to think.

OK, enough yapping for a starter post. Let me throw a few pics of the progress.

Robb

Start with a stock pic:

The SOA:

The funny pic with SOA and 27"s:

The replacement:

Test Fit:

Originally posted by morrisey0
And to be honest, I think stock D44s (especially LPs) are a bit overated (yep, I said it). They aren't the strongest things on Earth like a lot of people seem to think.


mmmhmm LPs aren't much of a hoot in my book... I'd prefer HP as well... I really would like a d44 HD HP :) That's only cause I can't afford a d60 I'm sure if ya aren't using TONS of the skinny pedal, and aren't doin wicked wheelin, the d30 should hold up....
























For awhile :D


Oh, what ya gonna do about the hubs?

I thought you were going to go with Coil springs?




Dang it! Now I gotta figure out what coils I need to get, I was hoping you would use them then I could see where yours sits with the coils.

Is that just where it is today? I am going to be have to come down soon and peep around at it when corry gets closer to doing the steering.

that would look tight with some american racing ar 136s

RFR2212: I got Warn alloy axle shafts on the way, so it will be strong enough. I am in VA, we don't do too much crazy "crawlin" here.

taxxman2k: Nope. You may be thinkin of JoshC, he is putting an XJ D30 with coils on.

Foote: You are just nuts!!:D

Originally posted by taxxman2k
I thought you were going to go with Coil springs?



josh is going coils..

edit: what he said ^ robb's 10:37 is earlier than my 10:37..

So far so good Robb. Has he mounted the shackles and stuff for the leaf springs yet? What are you doing about driveshafts? What gear did you end up installing? Has he given you any kind of a ball park date as to when it will be done?

Sorry all the questions, but i'm an impatient waiter!:D

Happy trails!!

im with Josh on this one, i think we need daily updates! even if its a "well, havent heard anything today".:D

BTW- the Warn shafts will make that 30 fairly stout. my YJ friend has 36" Swampers and a locker in his front, and has oddly enough never broken a frontend part with those axles. i, on the other hand, break stock 44 outer stub shafts like they were made of balsa wood. ive got a pile in the garage. and we go down the same trails. :(

Originally posted by james t
i, on the other hand, break stock 44 outer stub shafts like they were made of balsa wood. ive got a pile in the garage. and we go down the same trails. :(

I believe it's time ya get yourself some warn shafts, and CTM u-joints, and yer all set!
Pete

Josh, I think the last time I talked to Cory was on Wednesday. I think the pic of the axle just sitting underneath was where he was at that point. I believe it should be all hung by Monday night. The rear driveshafts will have to be extended, and the front made. I will prolly be taking care of that when I get it back. I haven't done anything about gears yet. As far as when he'll be done, I have no idea and don't push it. Between school, homework, trying to run a business, and having a life..........I can imagine it is tough to find time to go work on my truck for free. There is also a lot more stuff that has to be designed, fabbed, and tested before it becomes final.

James, yea, it should be okay. For now, I only have the Warn inners, at least I think they are Warns. They are supposed to be, but I bought them slightly used and have no idea how to tell whether they really are or not............anyone got any suggestions on that? I will be getting outers tho. Here is a pic for ya tho..........:D
http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/rack.jpg


RFR2212, yep, CTMs would be nice for me also. Right now tho, I got 2 sets of the good 'ol X297s to play with. If I start breaking those (which I doubt), I will prolly try the X760s (I think that is the new #), they are supposed to be 10X more durable than the 297s.

Robb

edit: scratch that part about the Warn shafts...........I guess the one piece instead of two piece long shaft should have given it away:confused: :confused:

Here are the latest pics.

But first, a preface.

The YJ 30 comes factory SUA, but I got the new perches and have them setup for SOA. This, with front YJ springs is STILL not enough lift. There is so much more weight that the springs negatively arch and push the shackles back to horizontal.

I've informed Robb he needs new lift springs. I think we are going to try the 4.5" Rubicon Express springs. At least that is what I am going to tell him!

It is hard to see in one of the pics, but there is a crossmember between the two mounts at the front of the vehicle.

http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/sas1.jpg

http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/sas2.jpg

http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/sas3.jpg

http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/sas4.jpg




I will be using a Scout steering box once I get the new springs in there and set it up then. Once the springs and steering are worked out, I will forklift flex it and decide on shock lengths.

Then it will be simple things like brakelines and driveshafts.

I was thinking of selling this as a "kit," but I don't think it is possible. There are too many things that would make it impossible for the average guy to "bolt on." I had a hard time cutting out all the brackets and crossmemebers and I was using a plasma torch. I cannot imagine what it would have been like with a saw-zall or cutoff wheel!

I will sell the brackets to whomever wants them if they think they can tackle the rest.

I know it is not at final height but how bout some pics of the clearance of the axle and frame and the pumpkin?

robb i hate you, you truck is gonna be done before mine

what are we looking at finished product 6" of lift?

Is that the angle you welded the spring perch's on? Isn't the angle of the pinion a little low? I know once it is sitting on its tobe springs, that angle can only get worse. The shackles are in the rear, like they should be, but the angle seems off.

it is probably off because of the negative arch in the springs right now.


Shoulda said this before, but as always I am impressed with the quality of Cory's work.

The actual arch of the springs is not going to have that large of an effect on that angle of the pinion. The only way other than fixing the pads would be to lower the mounting point at the front of the springs. I am not knocking cory's work, I like what he has done to the rigs I have seen pictures for. I went to his webpage, and like what I saw. I am just observing the fact that your driveline will explode under flex with that angle.

And, actually, it will not drive for crap with that angle unless you cut the tubes off and rotated them. The ? fulcrom? point, or where the knuckles connect to the axle housing are at a bad angle also.

VonZipper
I am almost 100% sure the perches aren't welded yet, they are just hangin loose. It wouldn't make much since to weld them up when the final springs aren't even on.

Looking good Cory!

Robb

Perches aren't welded on. I wouldn't weld them on like that. :rolleyes:

Not sure what the end lift is. I personally hate measuring it because I think it is stupid. 2", 4", 6", who cares? :D

Build it to where you can clear the tires you want with the smallest amount of height and rubbing. Whatever that comes to is where you wanted to be!

Originally posted by CoryL
Perches aren't welded on. I wouldn't weld them on like that. :rolleyes:

Not sure what the end lift is. I personally hate measuring it because I think it is stupid. 2", 4", 6", who cares? :D

Build it to where you can clear the tires you want with the smallest amount of height and rubbing. Whatever that comes to is where you wanted to be!

Thank you. That is how I feel.

I was just asking guys, don't get all bothered.

I saw the u-bolts on, and was just curious if that was where you put it? I did not imagine you would, but then again, stranger things have happened.

Cory, have any idea what type of price we'd be looking at for a kit like this? Or is it too early to tell?

Cory, Looking very clean! Nice work.

Cory, i know i've told you a hundred times along with everyone else--your work is awesome. You take your time and make it look factory, that's what's making your business boom!

So when do you want mine?:D Sorry Robb, had to do it!

Happy trails!!

Originally posted by JoshC
So when do you want mine?:D Sorry Robb, had to do it!
No need to apologize to me.....................Cory is the one who has to move his truck.:D

I want to see the work on your coils too!:)

Robb

Originally posted by CoryL:


I was thinking of selling this as a "kit," but I don't think it is possible. There are too many things that would make it impossible for the average guy to "bolt on." I had a hard time cutting out all the brackets and crossmemebers and I was using a plasma torch. I cannot imagine what it would have been like with a saw-zall or cutoff wheel!



I think I will sell the brackets for $500.

Would that just be brackets and a goodluck pat on the back, or would there be instructions?

Originally posted by CoryL
I think I will sell the brackets for $500. when you do the coils on Josh's will you be selling the brackets for that too? and basically like a "kit" for the coils too.

Originally posted by AdamsGuitar
Would that just be brackets and a goodluck pat on the back, or would there be instructions?

Instructions...

Lift front bracket up to frame, positioned under the body mount and mark holes. Drill one hole all the way through the frame. Drill two holes on bottom of the frame. Tap bottom holes to 1/2". Install hardware.

Position rear brackets where you want, based on the springs you are using (some springs are longer than others). Drill two holes all the way through the frame and two on the bottom. Tap bottom holes to 1/2". Install hardware.

Install leaf springs into front hangers. Install shackles. Install shackles to rear mounts. Tighten until bushings start to bulge.

There will be an optional trac-bar bracket I think. But those are the instructions. :D

Originally posted by TarHeel085
when you do the coils on Josh's will you be selling the brackets for that too? and basically like a "kit" for the coils too.

The coil brackets will probably be more since there will be more work to get a trac-bar bracket (required) and the coil buckets.

Like the leafs, steering is up to you.

I think I'm missing something here. Stupid question, but what else would be involved in doing the SAS, that you wouldn't mind going to the trouble of typing? ;)

Originally posted by AdamsGuitar
I think I'm missing something here. Stupid question, but what else would be involved in doing the SAS, that you wouldn't mind going to the trouble of typing? ;)

I will also sell the spring over perches, u-bolts, spring pads, new engine crossmember and shock mounts within that $500.

First you have to remove all the stock suspension components, cut out all the brackets and crossmembers up there and remove the stock power steering pump.

Then you have to bolt in a pump from a vehicle with a TTB setup.

Then you bolt in the springs using whatever ones you want.

Set the axle under the springs and lightly bolt them in place. Once everything is set, you can set your caster and weld the spring perches in place.

Then you have to mount a steering box to the frame and custom make a steering shaft (I think I will be making these as well, but not included in the price). Then you have to get some custom lines made from the pump to the box.

Then you have to modify stock steering links or get new ones made.

Possibly get new brakelines.

Then you have to modify/lengthen/get new driveshafts.

It isn't easy, but the rewards of more flex are worth it in my opinion.

I agree, i think it is very worth it.

Cory, have you thought about making driveshafts?

You said you had a buddy down there that did that right, do you know how much he is going to charge?

How much does it look like you will have to lenghten Robbs rear shaft?

Happy trails!!

Originally posted by JoshC
Cory, have you thought about making driveshafts?


Yes, but to get the machines to properly weld and balance the driveshafts it isn't worth it. Without those machines, they would be useless on the street.


You said you had a buddy down there that did that right, do you know how much he is going to charge?

How much does it look like you will have to lenghten Robbs rear shaft?



No buddy in town. We have a shop here that will lengthen, etc. I can get completely new driveshafts from a variety of places.

As for cost, I have no idea. Re-tube and re-balance will probably be around $175 or so, but don't hold me to that.

When I had my rear lengthened and front lengthened and the flange changed it cst me $400 here in town. If you had all the measurements you could proly get it done cheaper somewhere else, but I dropped mine off and these guys did it right. I will have to have my front converted and lengthened after the SAS is done, but that shouldn't be too bad.

Why I think I will be the guy on this forum to complete a SAS!?! I'm so jealous!!

Good work back there Cory! I really look clean, so...

When are you getting the new springs?

What steering box are you going to use? ( I don't remember if I read that)

What year is the xj axle? gears? My biggest problem is that I have 4.10's and it's really hard to find a jeep with 4.10's in a junkyard...

I can't wait to see the finished product!! By the way, I really like the tube that holds the front spring hangers it looks really cool!

His axle is actually off of a YJ (wrangler). XJ's are coil spring suspension.

Cory is using the Scout II steering box.

Why don't you just buy gears instead of looking for an axle with them already installed. I figure you'll be looking for the rest of your life for it that way!

Happy trails!!

i have a pic request if at all possible, my reasoning for not goin leafs is that i dont like the way that you can see the front spring hangers and sometimes the dont look to perty. but from the looks of your design you cant see them. but could you get me a pic where you are "squating" in front of the truck so i can see if im right. thanks, and great work! :chug:

Robb,

what gearing are you planning on running?

Originally posted by taxxman2k
Robb,

what gearing are you planning on running?
4.56 One of the drawbacks of the D30 is that the R&P start getting weak with anything lower than that. But I am not planning on going any bigger than 35s (at least with the D30), so that isn't much of a drawback to me.

Robb

btw: What happened with the flairs?

nothing, you still want them?

Cant wait to see the steering box setup and how the trac & drag bar will work out.....

PICS!! PICS!! PICS!! PICS!!!;)

I don't think there will be any new pics for a at least a few more days. New leafs for the front are on order, they should be in sometime this week. Also got a Scout Box shipped on Friday, so the steering should be ready to start once the leafs are done.

Robb

Will the steering setup be the same as Lizardtrac?? I was looking at Chola's pics and the steering box is on the inner side of the frame, so it could be done, but I don't know exactly how...?!?!??!?!:confused:

Originally posted by morrisey0
I don't think there will be any new pics for a at least a few more days. New leafs for the front are on order, they should be in sometime this week. Also got a Scout Box shipped on Friday, so the steering should be ready to start once the leafs are done.

Robb

Might I ask where you found the steering box? I can't find any good deals on the web, but have yet to start calling junk yards....

I looked for a box online for a couple of weeks. Saw a couple go on eBay for about $90-110, but for some reason never bid. I don't have any junkyards around me that carry trucks.........that sux bad!!! The only typical auto store I found that sells them is NAPA and they want 180 + 55 core for a reman. I found mine by putting a request in at junkyarddog.com. From that, I got a bunch of spam from a lot of yards, but I got one reply from a yard that had one for $75 shipped.

oso_polar, yea, I am pretty sure it is going to be mounted on the outside of the frame.

Robb

Originally posted by oso_polar
Will the steering setup be the same as Lizardtrac?? I was looking at Chola's pics and the steering box is on the inner side of the frame, so it could be done, but I don't know exactly how...?!?!??!?!:confused:

I know its tough right now in your country right now.... but see if you can find Chola and get some updated clear pics. :D

ROGER THAT SIR! I'm on it! I'll call him tomorrow, SIR OVER AND OUT!:cool:

Robb.

Have you called Lacys on the Jefferson Davis Pike?

Originally posted by morrisey0
I looked for a box online for a couple of weeks. Saw a couple go on eBay for about $90-110, but for some reason never bid. I don't have any junkyards around me that carry trucks.........that sux bad!!! The only typical auto store I found that sells them is NAPA and they want 180 + 55 core for a reman. I found mine by putting a request in at junkyarddog.com. From that, I got a bunch of spam from a lot of yards, but I got one reply from a yard that had one for $75 shipped.

oso_polar, yea, I am pretty sure it is going to be mounted on the outside of the frame.

Robb

why ebay always skips my mind is beyond me. I just bid on one there with the arm for $40. I'll let you know how it goes.

taxxman2k,
I had that one on "Items I am Watching List". It looks to be in real nice condition. It will be interesting to see what it goes for. I would guess around 80-90. The last couple that have been on there also included the pump, so they are hard to compare. Remember, these things are populer. And remember, it can be shot and shipping isn't exactly cheap.

unclemeat, tell me a little about Lacy's. Not really my part of town. My main yards would be CAP and Bruce's which don't carry any trucks really. There seem to be a lot of yards with trucks up around Fredericksburg. I didn't do much local looking because I would have to have mine shipped out to KY anyway.

Robb

Robb,

I have had good luck with Lacys. Their sales office was on the Jeff Davis Pike, around the Willis Road exit (near Philip Morris). I looked in the phone book and they are giving a Charles City address. When I was looking for a used motor, they seemed to the only junkyard in town that had one. They seemed to have a good warrenty.

When your truck gets completed I want to see that shinny new suspension. The pictures look really good.

i was just wandering. this might have been covered before so ignore me if im asking a redundant ?.

arent most early explorer guys using stock steering box and pitman arm when converting to straight axle?

if it worked for them couldnt it work for a late model? it seems that it woudl be more easily adapted as far as steering arm and what not... and this would be in a fairly stock position, meaning that we wouldnt have to move radiator hose or fuel lines or whatever else might be in there...

im begining phase of this swap. ive got everything except the steering worked out.

this thread has been INVALUABLE. cory your are doing a sweet job. robb, i know your a happy man!

Originally posted by BUCHVILLEMAN
i was just wandering. this might have been covered before so ignore me if im asking a redundant ?.

arent most early explorer guys using stock steering box and pitman arm when converting to straight axle?

if it worked for them couldnt it work for a late model? it seems that it woudl be more easily adapted as far as steering arm and what not... and this would be in a fairly stock position, meaning that we wouldnt have to move radiator hose or fuel lines or whatever else might be in there...

im begining phase of this swap. ive got everything except the steering worked out.

this thread has been INVALUABLE. cory your are doing a sweet job. robb, i know your a happy man!

Well I was wondering that too. But from what I have read it is not possible because it ounts forward on the inside of the frame rail and the 2nd gens don't have room for it. Maybe someone else can chime in and confirm or deny what I have said.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=350765

There's a way, look at the pic closely, you will see the pitman arm coming out of the inner side of the frame, I already talked to Chola, and maybe today or tomorrow I will post some pics...!! Hope this help! :D

Originally posted by oso_polar
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=350765

There's a way, look at the pic closely, you will see the pitman arm coming out of the inner side of the frame, I already talked to Chola, and maybe today or tomorrow I will post some pics...!! Hope this help! :D

What box did he use?

that does help...

today i measured steering shafts and boxes on a ranger and on a cherokee. the wrangler and cherokee boxes are the same and the ranger box looks so similar it hurts. the 2nd gen x shaft is totally different of course but it looks like it could be replced easily with ranger setup. i really want to keep the individual elements as stock as possible so i dont end up with a steering shaft this is wacky shaped. im not dissing anyone's solution it just that i personally am learning as i go and i want to be able to buy parts for individual pieces. you know what i mean? i am sure that i am being wishful or oversimplifying things.

thanks for the informative and quick replies guys! much help.. keep it coming!

Yes, it can be done, but i think what Cory is talking about it the man hours. He's not going to spend all this time just for the steering box, when it is just as effective on the outside. One other note. I talked to Cory last night on the phone and he said we (2nd gen guys) are going to have to get a 1st gen PS pump. The 2nd gen puts out to much pressure because it has to turn with the rack and pinion. So keep this in mind.

Happy trails!!

Josh is correct. It can be done, but it take a lot of time to fit in there which really doesn't seem to be worth it if it can be mounted on the outside of the frame. He is also correct that the R&P pump will prolly produce too much pressure and blow the cap on the box.

BUCHVILLEMAN, Cory and I started with the same idea as far as using the 1st gen box (it is sitting at his shop now), but because of the trouble, it was a no go. Cory also looked into using a Wrangler YJ box, but it wouldn't work either, I am not sure of the reasons. I did see an article on an EB board where some guys were using Datsun 620 boxes mounted on the outside of the frame.........but good luck trying to find one of those.

oso_polar, that is an interesting pic. I also would like to know what type of box he used and how exactly it was mounted. Thanks for the pic!!

Robb

I would too like to know what box and what pump. I bet he is running the stock pump and I know Lizard is, so we will see. I am going to have to research that before I go changing out my pump. (not saying Cory is wrong, just need it confirmed from others)

I never thought to ask Lizard that question. Cory said his buddy with a ranger was blowing caps off. That's how he knew.

Robb, so what's new. Cory said he got your springs in and was going to relocate them. How are you going to get your explorer back to richmond?

Happy trails!!

sorry for the double post...

I had that one on "Items I am Watching List". It looks to be in real nice condition. It will be interesting to see what it goes for. I would guess around 80-90.
taxxman2k............did I call that one or what? Nice Job!

Josh, I have heard it both ways about the pump. I have heard from a couple of people that an R&P pump will be no problem, but I have also heard from quite a few that it isn't a good idea. I think there is some good info on the subject over at POR. The good thing is that we have access to this site's "For Sale" forum to find 1st gens pumps for cheap. I posted a WTB for the pump and box and within one day had arranged to buy them off Brett for extremely cheap (thanks Brett!) Not sure what is new on the truck today, it should get pretty exciting over the next couple of weeks. When done, it will HAVE to be trailered back here to Richmond. It will be completely undrivable with the 27" tires on it and the rear driveshaft about to fall out.:D

Robb

27"? Didn't your EB come with (supposedly) 31"s?

Aren't you having the shaft lengthened, or is that back in Richmond?

oh come on, that'd be funny as hell! he switched rims and tires with his LTD which were 27" adam.

You called it and now I get to pay for it :). I thought EBs came with 29" stock? Mine does as did my sport. I think it would be completely driveable if you fixed the rear shaft problem. Tire size shouldn't make too many problems. Are you planning on this being a DD?

Tarheel is correct. I put my EB wheels/tires on my LMTD, and they look nice as h3ll on it!! The LMTD came with some aftermarket wheels with some silly 27s on them. With those wheels on the EB, the CG is way too high and the truck too narrow to begin to drive. As far as a DD, not really. I got two others vehicles (LMTD and BMW) that I drive most of the time, but the EB will see it's fare share of the road. It should be fun to drive around here, since 99.9% of the Xs around here are completely stock.

Robb

I think he is using a bronco box, with the stock pump, they fabbed a bracket to hold it in its place, if you place it outside of the frame, no braket should be need it... I 99% about the box, but I will take some pics tomorrow, and post them here, I already talk to him!!

EDIT/ADD:

Cory where are you?!?:(

Hmmmmm...........that will be interesting to see if he used an Early Bronco box. I know they came mounted inside the frame originally. The BIG problem here with the power EB boxes is that they are mucho $$$$. The early EBs had manny steering and most owners want to convert them to power. This makes the later EB power boxes highly valuable. I have seen quite a few go on eBay for around $500 and have seen some remans for sale for around $1000. :eek:

Robb

Hey Robb, i'm taking my explorer down next weekend, well, not 100% sure yet. Anyways, if yours happened to be done by then (just thinking ahead) you could come up and ride with me down and we could trailer yours back here. Save you a lot of extra driving since i'm trailering mine down. Or if you just want to come up for the drive down to see how it is going that would be great too.

Happy trails!!

Josh, we will just have to see how the timeframe works out. The bastard of it is renting a trailer here in Richmond. They are hard to come by.

Oh yea......................................
http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/45sas4.jpg
Robb

:eek: :eek: :eek: :D

Looks great Robb. That thing is a monster on those little tires, wonder how big it will be on big tires. Cant wait to see the finished product.

Robb - is it drivable yet. and is it level? from the pic it looks like the front is taller then the back. or it might be the picture.

great work Cory! Might be doing mine someday!

is it level?...................not quite. Your eyes are correct, the front is UP there. This is JUST FINE! Temp fix, blocks in rear. Permanent fix, new leafs in rear. Cory and I quesstimate no problem fittin 35s!:D
http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/45sas2.jpg
Robb

ya going to fix the rear sagage with soem AAL or something?

Actually, the rear already has an AAL, it isn't sagging. For now, the plan is to put blocks in the rear to level it out and measure for shocks and all that good stuff. In the future, new leaf packs will be in the rear. I need to do some research on exactly which leafs to go with (aka, bug some members, including Rick, with suggestions).:D

Robb

Originally posted by morrisey0
Temp fix, blocks in rear. Permanent fix, new leafs in rear.

Wow that thing is big. That looks so funny with the little tires! So what is left, shocks and steering?

Robb, i was just thinking you could always just drive up here or where ever you are going and rent a uhaul (if you happen to have one around you at home) and get a "one way trailer" that way you don't have to pull it both ways, save some gas money that way.

Happy trails!!

i'm 100,000,000,000,000,000,000,000% Jealous! Looks good

JoshC PM me for my # for when you get in town. I will have to contact CoryL also, maybe i can meet you when you get in town. I'm getting my temp 33's remounted this weekend (i'm riding around with 5+" lift and stockers :o

Oh yeah and this guy was busting caps off his steering boxes with the stock pump
http://www.towerofyouth.org/upload/RETARD/KJTK1A.JPG
http://www.towerofyouth.org/upload/RETARD/KJTK1D.JPG

Originally posted by Yomie
i'm 100,000,000,000,000,000,000,000% Jealous! Looks good

JoshC PM me for my # for when you get in town. I will have to contact CoryL also, maybe i can meet you when you get in town. I'm getting my temp 33's remounted this weekend (i'm riding around with 5+" lift and stockers :o

Oh yeah and this guy was busting caps off his steering boxes with the stock pump
http://www.towerofyouth.org/upload/RETARD/KJTK1A.JPG
http://www.towerofyouth.org/upload/RETARD/KJTK1D.JPG

Are those 37s?

Originally posted by taxxman2k
Are those 37s?

36's

word of advice on the early bronco boxes. if at all possible, get one from a 76-77. the 75-older have a very, very slow ratio. i have heard this is good for trails, however, i find it a major PITA. 6+ turns from lock to lock. in tight manuvers, it really sucks. also, it makes for some hairy wandering at highway speed. not that the truck wanders more, but due to the slow ratio box you have to turn the wheel twice as much to compensate. i would avoid an EB box at all costs unless it were a 76-77. i know im looking for a 76-77 right now, and $400+ is about what they seem to go for.

may be you guys can clear things up for me.... you are not going to mount the steerign box inside the frame because its too hard?

it seems to me that it would be more difficult to mount on the outside of frame rail... what kind of shaft are you using to make that happen? is it fabbed or a combination? looking at an early explorer next to mine the distance from the firwall to radiator is same with the fuellines and other stuff in the same position. looking at that i dont see why it wouldnt be more feasible to go with stock vintage explorer/ranger setup...

im goign to try and use the stock pump until i blow something and then re-address it as needed.



oh yeah ... what springs did you end up using? yjs too week right? what about waggy springs? too week too? im not sure on this. i have waggy springs thinking that it would suffice - we'll see.

hey guys i must be a retard... i have been searchign for lizardtrac's thread but cant seem to fin it. i had it bookmarked but it now tells me that i cannot acces it. searches coem up with nothing too.... am i retared or has it been deleted or closed or something?

this was the link
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=60663

trying to get my questions answered before asking the same question over and over again. thanks guys i appreciatte the flow of info on this thread.

You can use any box I would imagine, but it is a matter of time and money.

I'm sure I could make a 1st gen box fit, but for the work it would require makes it less appealing.

The reason Robb, Josh, and anyone else that comes to me won't get a 1st gen box is because of its design. On 1st gens, the frame is recessed to sort of conform around the box. On the 2nd gen frames (which are totally different) the recess is not there, so the box won't sit flush against the frame.

Can't use a Jeep box either because the pitman arm faces backwards which requires moving the box further forward up the frame (toward the bumper). But to mount it there, you would have to move the radiator.

So the Scout box on the outside of the frame is going to be the best option. I'd rather build a little more complicated steering shaft than relocate a radiator or notch and reweld a frame (with the motor in the way).

PSA: Lizard deleted his thread.

Now using 4.5" YJ lift springs.

thanks for the detailed answer.

with the box located outside the frame how do then address the tie rod? do you have a new or customized rod or are you gogin to make the stock compnents work?

in your opinion - why is the reverse shakle design better than standard? i understand that it is supposed to be a better ride but i have also heard that the oportunity to drop shafts is greatly enhanced.. is this a myth? i have heard both opinions from "expereince" :rolleyes:
i was going to use my current top shock mount but i imagine that i couldnt if i had to use the outer box option. (thinking outloud)

looking at the early ex setup i had convinced myself that i could make a braket to accomodate the recessed section of the frame, but now am not sure...

friend just hooked me up with front and rear waggy springs for a beer, so im goign to try to repack to get the necessary lift. i hope this works if not i will more than liekly have to go with the yj lift springs.

i have a junked 3/4 ton chevy at the house that i am goign to try and make work. i have not looked at the steering on it but am sure its power steering. now that i think of it my 3/4 ton dodge uses a box located outside of the frame... i think i will study those.

not to steel your secrets but is there any way you could post a detailed shot of a shaft design that you might be going with? if not i understand.

so is it neccesary for it to be that high so the shackles are at a somewhat normal angle? and i wanna see one of corys 38's under there in a shot! :D and Yomie, i thought you were lowered on mustang 16" but now your puttin back on the 33's, WTF?

i couldn't stand the lowered ride and missed being up high, reguardless of what i broke on the trails, so i went out and bought all new lift, tires, everything, and have it all on, except for tires (ran out of money) so yeah, i'm back bigger and badder, hopefully will be complete by march, lockers and all

Originally posted by CoryL
PSA: Lizard deleted his thread.

Actually it was move temorarily, anyway I have to restart a new thread, the design I had really didnt sit right with me, I ripped the whole front end off and started over, came up with yet another 100% bolt on front shackle mount thats 1000% better then b4, its almost done..... got flat top knuckles on the way for steering also.

can somone illaberate on the steering shaft/box design? pretty please :)

lizardtrac, didnt you have it set up outside the frame as well? what all did you do to fab the correct shaft angles and whatnots...
did you change the pump?

also what is the spring combination that you ended up with?

sorry to bombard you guys with so many questions its just that i have everything but the steering stuff sitting in dora (the explorer) right now?


side note: anyone ever loaded/unloaded a complete dana 30 into an explorer from another pickup? holy shit that was the hardest thign i ever did in my entire life. theres no way i could do a dana 44:eek: :confused:

Steering is outside the frame with a scout box, reinforced with 1/4" steel plating on both sides, I fabbed a shaft out of the stock one and a cherokee shaft. you have to angle the box upwards toward the colum shaft, the angle is too great if you leave it flat, it binds up too much and not very reliable. Pump is stock.

Im goin with Waggy springs, want to see how they hold up.

i just got a quote of $35 from local boneyard for 1990 ranger steering box, shaft, and pitman arm. i am gogin to try to make this work. if not then im out $35 except for the shaft and pitman arm will probably be useable and i can give the box to someone who needs it.

thanks for explaination.. that makes more sense now. this might sound dumb but how close to the tire is the box when its on the outslde of the frame?

im looking at my waggy springs. ive got front and rear. im thinking that if i get toom uch sag that i can add a rear spring in. these are out of the 70s waggy something liek a waggy 7 that had a snowplow option. they have got to hold up the front end... im hoping.

I tried it with a ranger box, its still sitting on the floor of my garage, the tires are quite far from the box.

Rather than add more plate around the frame where the steering box goes, I am going to cut out three holes to the box's pattern and weld in sleeves.

If I can get a decent deal on steering shaft joints, I am going to make a custom steering shaft so that the box can be installed horizontally.

The trac-bar bracket will bolt to the frame in two places. There will be a flat plate behind the steering box that uses its holes and another piece under the frame which will be drilled and tapped. This should aid in keeping bumpsteer down.

As for the actual steering links, I am going to try to reuse the factory tie-rod and just build a custom drag link. If I have to bend the drag link I am going to have Robb pick up the M.O.R.E. quasi-bolt on passengerside high steer bracket.

I should have the box and bracket built and installed by Sunday.

On a side note, I have lifted a Dana 60 rear (no brakes) out of the back of my truck to toss in a dumpster. Granted the dumpster was below the level of my truck.

If I have to bend the drag link I am going to have Robb pick up the M.O.R.E. quasi-bolt on passengerside high steer bracket.

Whats that? I thought in order to get hi-steer setup you need flat tops? is there something you can bolt on instead?

Also, Cory, did you ever find out about that driveshaft adaptor?

hey guys... i posted in a another thread but not to many people replied. I would like to know if all of you dana 44 guys used the EB axles.... I have access to a 90 jeep grand wagoneer but am not sure if this axle is to wide? Someone said that i would need to move the springs inward but cant because of the location of the pumpkin... any ideas?

that ranger above is awesome!! id love my ranger to look like that.

http://www.###############.com/newfront.jpg

http://www.###############.com/newfront2.jpg

hey cory i tried to email you but your email addy did not work. Could you email me at Jeffseal@aol.com I want to get in line for a SAS.

Robb, Cory says he might have your steering done by sunday, that's awesome! You getting excited? I sure am!

Did you 2 get your brakes to work right? How is the ABS going to react since you can't hook it up now?

Happy trails!!

Originally posted by PUR PONY
hey guys... i posted in a another thread but not to many people replied. I would like to know if all of you dana 44 guys used the EB axles.... I have access to a 90 jeep grand wagoneer but am not sure if this axle is to wide? Someone said that i would need to move the springs inward but cant because of the location of the pumpkin... any ideas?

that ranger above is awesome!! id love my ranger to look like that.

The guys with the leaf springs are Waggy Axles.

looking at ranger box with a few beers last night i scribbled a bracket design that in my head will work. all it would do would space the box off the frame. if the rain doesnt ruin the weekend this is the primary thing i plan to work on until it is resolved. im working totally outside. if not i have a friend with a scout box that he is going to give me. wish i knew that before i went to boneyard yesterday:o

lizardtrac,
thats a nice crossemember/shackle design is that a receiver in teh center there? did you have that before for a portabel winch mount or is that new?

right now i plan on a 2" square tube crossmember below the motor mounts and one up front like that.


looking good everyone!!!

Originally posted by CoryL
On a side note, I have lifted a Dana 60 rear (no brakes) out of the back of my truck to toss in a dumpster. Granted the dumpster was below the level of my truck.

Your not exactly puny, and small built like me either :o



:D

theres no way i could load a d60 on my own. esp a full size.
yom, i figured you are some sort of hopped up muscle head army guy. your a shrimp like me?

Originally posted by BUCHVILLEMAN
theres no way i could load a d60 on my own. esp a full size.
yom, i figured you are some sort of hopped up muscle head army guy. your a shrimp like me?

yeah, i'm an army guy, but no muscle, it don't run in the family :( , 5'7" 140 lbs

my family is all short army guys. in fact im the only one to not enlist or be drafted.
5'8" 185lbs. was muscle at one time but has been taken over by beer and steak now that im a dad of 2 and all that yada yada happy hoem owner shit....

my family has a phrase. our guys are like a good irish beer "stout an bitter"

back to axles....

on the dana 30 is anyone going to lock it? i was actually thiking limited slip ($340 true trac) since i dont have manual hubs but the lockrite is so cheap ($230) im being swayed towards it.... opinions? the ring and pinion look so close to the same size as the ifs d35 that we have that i think it should hold up to a mild locker.

Both JoshC and I are planning on running the Powertrax in our D30s.

Josh, Brake lights to work? The ABS is gonna get unplugged or cut of or whatever. Yea, I had thought of just picking up a Uhaul trailer on the way somewhere. Somebody has to bring them back to Richmond. When I went out there, the closest ones Uhaul had were in Lynchburg and Mathews.

Robb

Call around Robb, i don't know which route your taking, but call Lexington, KY or even Louisville, KY

do you think that the powertrax will spin the drive shaft when not in 4x4? i know htat its not supposed to engage unless there is torque being applied, but ive heard that even when not in 4x4 that a tight uturn or somehting you can feel it trying to lock.

what kind of price are looking at paying for the powertrax? isnt it more in the $350 range?

Originally posted by lizardtrac
Whats that? I thought in order to get hi-steer setup you need flat tops? is there something you can bolt on instead?

Also, Cory, did you ever find out about that driveshaft adaptor?

There is no stock D30 knuckle that can be modified to flat tops. Unless you buy the custom D30 knuckles.

M.O.R.E. makes a bracket that bolts to the YJ D30 (passengerside only) so that your drag link can run over the leaf springs. Again, this only applies to the YJ D30.

If you want flat top D44 knuckles, I happen to have a pair. Only one side needs to me milled down.

As for the driveshaft, I haven't yet. If you want, call Jesse at High Angle Driveline. www.highangledriveline.com and see what he will give you on a price. It won't be the cheapest, but the service is top notch and the quality is great!

heres a d30 link that i have been using. you guys might gather some info in there that could be useful.

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/axle/d30.html

taxxman2k - i though most of your guys with leafs are using wrangler dana30 front axles and not the waggy dana44. Is the waggy dana44 the same width as the dana30??

im using wrangler d30
waggy leafs

d30 width is 60" which lizardtrac or soemone will have to confirm is like .5" more narrow than waggy d44.

Waggy's are 61" WMS.

Im using a waggy D44 , and just picked up some flat tops today and new leafs

Originally posted by PUR PONY
taxxman2k - i though most of your guys with leafs are using wrangler dana30 front axles and not the waggy dana44. Is the waggy dana44 the same width as the dana30??

OK so it is just Lizard and the guy in South America.

I am going coils and using a 44 out of a EB. Getting it on Monday and gonna measure it and compare it to the 8.8 and the IFS to see how much longer it is.

lizardtrac - what year waggy dana44 are you using?? Now is a GRAND waggy any different? the one i can get is a 1990 grand waggy front end.

Originally posted by PUR PONY
lizardtrac - what year waggy dana44 are you using?? Now is a GRAND waggy any different? the one i can get is a 1990 grand waggy front end.

Yes its a Grand waggy front 44, 77-91 are the same axle, mine is a 85. a 90 will work fine, just make sure the pumpkin is on the driver side.

lizardtrac - thanks for clearing this up!! What exactly are you using for springs?
Right now the waggy is in maine and i live in CT. I have to call my cousin and let me know what side the pumpkin is on. He was pretty sure it was the drivers side.... if so I am going to get it from him.

I want to find out if the t-case out of that... i beleive it should be a NP231.... will mate to my v-8 tranny. I think AA makes an adapter for a NP231 t-case to a ford aod...

Man, so much to think of with an SAS. I'm starting to think I may just drop of my X and have someone else worry about the details....

But this thread has been very useful. Either way, I know what to look for and what not to look for. Thanks.

Yeah there is a lot of info on this thread, but just remember this is "Robb's SAS" thread;)

Happy trails!!

Naw, I don't mind this thread getting off topic of my truck. I didn't really want to start a thread about it til it was done anyway. I just wanted a place where people could ask me about stuff if they wanted instead of asking me in the middle of other threads (was happening often). There is a lot of good info here and I would like it to keep up. There seem to be a few SASs going on right now (or about to start), so if this thread can help any of us out, I'm cool with it.

My update: Steering box mounting has been slowed because the stock pitman arm is too long. A shorter one has been ordered and steering fabrication will continue when it arrives.

Robb

Can you please explain what the diff. is in running the shackle in the back of the Dana 30 as opposed to in the front of the Dana 30. I just bought a Dana 30 complete for 100.00 bucks and am going to be running leafs on the front. This is for my daily driver so Im not worried about alot of flex just getting rid of the Dana 35. Please help me as it will be ging on here in the next couple of weeks. This is on my 1994 Explorer. Thanks

Shackle behind the axle tends to provide a nicer ride and you won't bash them with rocks.

Disadvantage is that the pinion angle change through cycling is worse than when the shackles are in the front.

So for my daily driver do you think it would be best to run them in the front? This thread has been very helpful and was my deciding factor in getting rid of the dana35. I didnt want to have to deal w/ the Spindle Nut backing off all the time w/ my 35's. Thanks Cory

I have a trail only Explorer so this one will be used just for street.

No, I think it would be better in the back. Since you said you weren't concerned with massive amounts of flex, the pinion angle won't be changing htat much. Plus you'll get a better ride. If you were building an off-road beast, then the pinion angle would be a concern.

Originally posted by DocVijay
No, I think it would be better in the back. Since you said you weren't concerned with massive amounts of flex, the pinion angle won't be changing htat much. Plus you'll get a better ride. If you were building an off-road beast, then the pinion angle would be a concern. i also agree. i helped a friend do a shackle inversion on his YJ, and even though we did it for the purpose of running a home-made 3/4 eliptic setup, it tracked soo much better on the highway. alot of leafspring jeepers do this mod for better day-to-day driveability.

So what is the latest on the explorer? I guess you have the driveshafts, brakes, steering and shocks, is that about it?

Happy trails!!

Originally posted by JoshC
So what is the latest on the explorer? I guess you have the driveshafts, brakes, steering and shocks, is that about it?

Happy trails!!

The truck is on hold until the new pitman arm shows up. Not going to go any further with the steering til that is in hand.

To Do:

At Cory's: Brakelines, steering, trac-bar, shocks, rock sliders

At Home: rob a bank, driveshafts, wheels/tires, regearing, lockers

Going to do taxes tonight and prolly e-file tommorow. Hopefully a nice return is in my near future to help finish this thing up soon. :D

Once Again, Just wanted to throw out that Cory (http://www.crlcustoms.com) is one helluva a good guy to work with. I am sure, at this point, he would honestly like nothing better than to get my truck out of his shop and get to work on some more profitable projects. I can't thank him enough for what he has done for me and this project. Thanks Cory!

So, any fab work or metal products you need.......GO TO CORY DAMNIT!!! :D

Robb

I second that motion by Robb, and i'm paying for mine!! haha.

Are you going to keep your tupperware on Robb for you sliders?

I don't understand what the trac bar is for since you have leaf springs, can you fill me in?

So i guess it's a no go for you going to with me to drop mine off and pick yours up on sunday?

Happy trails!!

Originally posted by morrisey0
Once Again, Just wanted to throw out that Cory (http://www.crlcustoms.com) is one helluva a good guy to work with......I can't thank him enough for what he has done for me and this project. Thanks Cory!

So, any fab work or metal products you need.......GO TO CORY DAMNIT!!! :D

Robb

I agree. I have not purchased anything from Cory YET, but i've hung out at his house a few times when he was building the Sploder, he's a great guy!

i know you asked robb but since i just got my trac bar last night ill give it a go. trac bar is for lateral movement restraint (wow that sounded techinical.) much like that little shock that the 4door ex have on the rear. it is mounted on the frame and is hinged on the drivers side somewhere between sdteering box and motor mount, but a little lower on the frame and to the axle. im not sure if the jeepers take thsees off when off roading or not. it looks simpel to take off. one bolt on frame one bolt on axle. or may be just take off axle and mount to frame when wheeling.

im envious of cory's abilities too! damn my welds and cuts are ugly as sin.

Like BUCHVILLEMAN said, it is for lateral axle control. Leafs will shift side to side slightly in a steering setup and that generally isn't good.

My F250 has a trac-bar on it and it is leaf sprung up front. Most Jeepers have them.

They can be designed not to be restrictive and it is not neccessary to remove for wheeling.

while we are talking about it... where are you mounting this thing cory? ive got the bar and i havent measured it or anythign yet. (i only have the rear control arm mounts cut off. im cutting the big one tonight) are you going to mount at same angle as on jeep? i know that hte rubicon express 4.5" lift comes with a relocation bracket like this
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/reyjextreme/re01b.jpg

here the link to the rubicon express install (http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/reyjextreme/)

im not lifting too much - just enough to clear 33's and articulate well - but im not sure what the angle was onthe stock jeep setup. should i make bracket off frame droop to make sitting level the trac bar at the same angle? what do you think? im not mounting this until the weekend so im not too worried about it. im cutting corssmember and hopefull resloving steering box issues tonight.

Im gettin there....

http://www.###############.com/newskunk.jpg

Im gonna be putting the trac bar in, but with quick release pins, if you think about it, under extreme flex of the pass side dropping, it would eventually pull the entire axle towards the driver side. so it comes off, off-road. I have the stock one from the waggy, its bent to conform to the diff. I just have to shorten it a bit and make a bracket for the frame.

Good Lord Chris, you're going to have to cut the roof of your garage off to get that thing out!

Happy trails!!

cory or anyone who may know,

on the brakes - ive got the extended brake lines for the jeep but the explorer coupling (threaded male end that is on the hardline mounted to the frame) has a deeper threaded male end than the jeep line female end and it doesnt want to seal.... have you ran into this yet? im going ot look at parts stor for soem sort of adapter that will work but im thinking i may have to run new hardline from master cylander with the proper ends - anyone have a solution?

ill have pics up this weekend... swap should be done except for gearing saturday:D

will have pics of my steering setup tommorrow (if all goes as planned tonight)

If you go to NAPA talk to them (or any good parts store) and they have a book you can look in to find a line with the ends you want on it, then you just have to match up a length, so really you could run new hard lines (well a new end) or just get a new line from the hard line down to the axle.



Chris - what did you do about your breaks? are there two seperate lines coming down to the axle or one? if one what did you do with the extra stock line?

Originally posted by BUCHVILLEMAN
cory or anyone who may know,

on the brakes - ive got the extended brake lines for the jeep but the explorer coupling (threaded male end that is on the hardline mounted to the frame) has a deeper threaded male end than the jeep line female end and it doesnt want to seal.... have you ran into this yet? im going ot look at parts stor for soem sort of adapter that will work but im thinking i may have to run new hardline from master cylander with the proper ends - anyone have a solution?

ill have pics up this weekend... swap should be done except for gearing saturday:D

will have pics of my steering setup tommorrow (if all goes as planned tonight)


I'm still waiting on a new pitman arm. Until then I haven't been able to do anything.

As for the brakes, cut the tube, put a new fitting on it, and reflare the line.

thanks for both answers. i think ill try to flare it - sounds easiest.

what kind of pitman arm did you end upgetting?

ive got jeep and ranger arms at house if anyone could use either one of them just let me know. im not sure which ill end up using - probably jeep one as long as it fits on ranger steering gear.

found some good info on trac bar http://www.yjoffroad.com/steering/steering.html

im goign to try and fab one and use shackle bushings in the ends with 1" heavy duty pipe. ill let you knwo how it tunrs out.

Originally posted by BUCHVILLEMAN
thanks for both answers. i think ill try to flare it - sounds easiest. just make sure you use a double flair tool ;)

OK, ran the stock power steering pump to the scout box, works great. put in the steering stabilizer, works even better. now its snowing, now thats the best!

looks liek you guys are goign to get over a foot up there! freaking nuts.. im iss snow so bad. im from indiana and now live in florida. its 70 degrees already....

i worked on steering lastnight. the ranger box is goign to work for me but i am goign to have to either get a differnt tie rod on on the drag link or mod the jeep pitman arm to fit the ranger box... any sugestions? im goign to boneyard today to se if i can find another drag link that might work...:confused:

Ill tell ya, I had a blast out there in the snow even tho I dont have 4wd yet, but being that I have a LS in the rear that seems to have locked up, taking off from a dead start is a bit tricky in the snow. but doing donuts is quite easy, and fun, scary at first being so high.... tall that is, but everything seemed to work just fine.

Come on Chris, we need some more pictures. How in the world did you get that thing out of your garage?

Happy trails!!

Josh, that truck clear by about an inch, believe it or not:D

Right now I am very pissed.

I ordered a pitman arm last Friday and it STILL hasn't arrived. I can't really set anything up until I have it so nothing has been done with that.

I should have gotten the sliders done while I was waiting, but I always assumed it would be here "tomorrow."

The box location, steering shaft, drag link and trac-bar bracket all depend on the location of the box.

I have the new u-bolts for the rear and will be putting the blocks in today.

Unfortnately, things just pretty much stopped.

Originally posted by JoshC
Come on Chris, we need some more pictures. How in the world did you get that thing out of your garage?

Happy trails!!

within inches.... literally.

http://www.###############.com/flexx1.jpg

http://www.###############.com/flexx2.jpg

lizard, if you get in a postition where you would need that snorkle, then thats some deep ass water! it pretty useless now huh? :rolleyes: :p

Originally posted by TarHeel085
lizard, if you get in a postition where you would need that snorkle, then thats some deep ass water! it pretty useless now huh? :rolleyes: :p

Actually no.... when ya hit water fast or a mud pit fast to make it through, all that mud and water splashes up into the engine compartment, that was my problem b4 too.... not that I was in water that deep. altho a few times I was:D

Last night at about 2:30am I figured it all out for the steering.

Robb, I owe you the money for the Scout box since I will not be using it anymore.

That stock Ranger box is going in!

I'll post pics later this week when I am done. :D

OK

SCOUT II BOX FOR SALE!!!!! :D

Robb

sweet. Sounds like that will make the steering shaft issue a lot more straight forward. Can't wait to see how you do it.

Scout box will sell quick on ebay or pirate.

Cory, just how strong are the Ranger boxes? I'm keeping mine, and I plan on running 35's, largest allowed for my truck in this state. Should I keep an extra on hand?

wait a minute... anything over a 35" is illegal in Jersy? so i assume you cant register/own a H1 Hummer, as they run 37's. WTF??? sorry to get off topic.

hes talking over stock size, hummers come stock with those tires, their legal everywhere.

Originally posted by lizardtrac
hes talking over stock size, hummers come stock with those tires, their legal everywhere. so you wont be street legal soon, right lizard?

you know what, I lied. in this state, I can go only go with a tire 6" over stock, and am allowed 6" of lift, but the true lift, can only be 9" total for the weight of my truck, and I'm not even sure if that's accurate, the DMV doesn't know the liftlaws::)

if the tire must be under 6" over stock size, then i assume they would measure it with a tape measure. this is were low air pressure could help.;)

Originally posted by TarHeel085
so you wont be street legal soon, right lizard?

HAH! I dont live in NJ no more... I live in PA, where my truck IS legal!

no, they go by what is on the tire. If you have a 33" tire, and it actually measure 32" , they say it's a 33"
I hate this state, if my truck fails here, I have a good reason to move

Robb, your truck is freaking huge. We didn't mount my tires on there, we just put it up beside and jacked one side up to see where it would be on the truck, and it's big. You're going to love it!

Happy trails!!

Josh, I can't wait to see what Cory has planned for your truck

Hey guys! Move to Texas. Over here the bigger the tire the better!

Everything's big in Texas!

The Ranger box is stout. Same one they use on F150s and F250s (not currently, but in the past).

It'll handle 35s easily. Assist steering would be nice, but then you have to get the pump modified for more pressure and flow.

What are lift laws and vehicle inspections? Kentucky doesn't have either. We have an emissions test but it is going away in November.

i dont have my camera to share pics but steering worked out for me this weekend too. combined explorer steerign shaft with ranger shaft. mounted box. located the box lower on the frame then i had anticipated but oh well. now i am fabbing drag link with one jeep end and one ranger end.

i love florida - no lift laws, or emissions laws for that matter!

im going to give it a test drive without the trac bar. i keep getting told that i wont need it with sway bar hooked up so im going to try it - worse case it needs it and i have it so i can hook up if needed.

btw- right now i plan on reusing my explorer sway bar since its so much more heavy-duty.

lizard, where in hazleton do you live, i'm in bloomsburg and come to see my grandmom in hazleton all the time, i'd love to swing by and check out your truck sometime.

Im in west hazleton, bout 1/4 mile from the Lowes on 93.

I think im gonna rip the scout box out, and put the ranger one back in, the scout box is great, but it gets in the way of EVERYTHING and im tired of working around it. lets see what happens.

cool, i go right past there on the way to the nursing home. you must be right by damons and the turkey hill then huh?

actually, im past the Lowes, if your coming from 81, down the hill just past Lowes, and make a left onto 19th st, 2nd stop sign... im on that corner.

Cory, what about the adaptor for the front driveshaft?? did ya find out anything on that yet??

for reference. i got ranger box, steering shaft (from firewall to box), drag link, pitman arm from 1990 ranger for $50 at local yard. They pulled it all.

local mahine shop quoted me $50 to lengthen my drive shaft 1.5".. i think thats the insider deal since i work with the guy's son.

what kind of adapter are you guys needing for your driveshaft? to adapt to yoke? (sorry if you already covered this - this thread has become epic and im too lazy to reread it all)

yeah, the yolk on the t-case is for a CV joint, not sure when they started it but its a pain in the ass. 6 bolt round piece.

your trying to eliminate the cv style driv shaft or convert to ubolt style hook up on old jeeps or something?

Yes,

When I put my lift on I did this. Cost me about $200 to have that end changed and the shaft lengthened at a local driveline shop. So I am hoping when I do my SAS that my shaft will be long enough and I won't have to lengthen it again, but we shall see.

Originally posted by BUCHVILLEMAN
your trying to eliminate the cv style driv shaft or convert to ubolt style hook up on old jeeps or something?

well yeah, if ya dont, the first time you articulate the front end, bye bye driveshaft, being that the stock axle is fixed to the frame there is no need to have a driveshaft that can pivot more then an inch or 2, thats y they have the CV style setup.

Originally posted by lizardtrac
Cory, what about the adaptor for the front driveshaft?? did ya find out anything on that yet??

Haven't had time to call yet.

So basically you are looking for a replacement driveshaft double-cardan style to bolt to the flange of the t-case and whatever you need on the other side?

How do you get to a flange on the tcase side of the shaft. I just called a drive shaft place and they told me 80 bucks to lengthen it, so that's not bad. But how do you get to the flange instead of the CV style?

Happy trails!!

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid47/p0d0fc506463e2d6b49bc7bcf45012227/fcc6da13.jpg

Cory, I went with a single u-joint at the t-case end. Works great. The guys at the shaft shop said that was the best route and the double caradin are reserved more for very short shafts and huge angles. Haven't had any problems.

Josh,
the adapter has to be welded on. THe t-casend of the shaft is cut and a yoke is put on, then the new plate for the t-case (same amount of bolts) has a yoke on it and they are connected with a u-joint.

The shop that did mine did a great job and although it may not be the only route to go I trust his word and his work.

Were does the plate come from that has the yoke on it for the Tcase?

Robb, i'm assuming that that shaft is for a jeep? Is that yours?

Happy trails!!

I WISH!!!!

Naw that is the lengthened Superlift driveshaft that Desertspive uses. It is a nice shaft but $$$$! I was just showing what the double-cardan style with bolted flange looks like.

Robb

Yeah i understand the double joints and the flanges and junk, just don't know where you get the flange for your tcase. I want to try to get as much as i can for cory so that it saves me a couple of dollars, and so i can get it back on the road ASAP when i get it back.

Happy trails!!

The flange is machined by whoever does your shaft. you could crawl under there and get the diameter, hole pacing and then have a machine shop do you one up quick. I doub't your gonna find one any other way unless you call driveshaft shops (major ones) and see if they already have one made up. Your best bet is to take the truck and shaft to a shop and let them get you set up. You can't just go bolting stuff to a driveshaft that spins if you plan on running on the street, it will vibrate like crazy unless it is balanced. call around. I bet you can even get them to gaurentee it and warrantee any problems.

I didn't figure it was bolt on Dave. The told me they couldn't crawl up under a truck because they were a garage so to say. I told him it was going to be on a trailer, and he said then he could probably take a look at it on the trailer;)

So how does the CV style flange come off the tcase?

Happy trails!!

sorry to insult you, just a missunderstanding.

it has 6 - 8 bolts on the flange, I believe they are torx bolts but it has been a while.

I believe you can get a total custom shaft made for 200 bucks!

ask Jefe he had both front and rear custom shafts made i think he said both were only 500

I think I posted that price up there somewhere. I paid a little over $400 for both of mine. Front lengthened and converted and the rear lengthened.

Call around to your local 4x4 and high performance racing shops and see who they recomend. The shaft is not where you want to skimp(not saying you are), busting one can ruin a day real quick.

No problem Dave. I didn't know it just un bolted, i've never looked at it. Does the stock CV flange thing slide over some splines or just bolt right up to something. I could go ahead and get something made up if i knew all the details.

Jeff. I might have new shafts made, but there is no reason, for me anyways, to have new ones made when my tubes are still fine, just needed to be lengthened. 80 bucks sounds pretty good to me. But i'll have to check on the flange.

Happy trails!!

When it comes off it looks just like the pick above. Never actually attempted to pull the CV apart. THere are noo spines, because the factory setup is permantent and does not move the shaft is at a fixed length. So you won't only want to get it lengthened but a splie put on there too so it can expand and contract.

Alright Dave, you and I are on different pages. You are talking about take the DS off and i'm talking about unbolting the CV job that the DS bolts to on the tcase. My mistake. I've had my DS off more times then i care to talk about it, i just didn't know how to unbolt the "flange" off the tcase. Oh, they aren't torx;)

Happy trails!!

Sorry I understand now. You don't take it off. You get a round flange to bolt right too it. I wish it weren't so friggin cold out side or I would get you a pic of mine... But see the superlift shaft pic above? At the right end it has a round plate that will bolt straight up to your t-case the way it is now.

Okay, now we're cooking with gas. I see now. Yeah if you get a chance to bundle up tomorrow, or when ever, i'd like to see a picture of yours. Why did you have to have yours done with your IFS, lift?

Happy trails!!

My diff got dropped 4" with the lift, they really didn't "need" to spline it, but it makes it easier to get it the perfect length I guess. I will try to get a pic tomorrow but it might be hard in the snow and with the skid plate on there under the t-case, but I'll look.:D

OK, got the scout box out, and the ranger box in, had the hydrolic lines made today, and just have to make a new draglink and im set...... AGAIN....

so you think:p

Got the holes cut out for the sleeves for the steering box today.

Need to pick up some longer bolts and retap the Ranger box.

Steering will definately be done before this weekend.

TAX, did you do the hydrolic lines yourself or did you have them made somewhere? if you had them made did you just use coathangers to make a templete for them?

any pics?

I welded 1"x3" tube steel lenghtwise inside the frame for support for the steering box, and used longer bolts, went through the holes on the box and into grade8 nuts on the opposite side, I just dont trust the taps on the box. I mounted the box so that I didnt need a dropped arm, cause as soon as I get my knuckles taped, ill be running hi-steer setup. the arm is tucked up nice and tight.

Originally posted by jeffseal
TAX, did you do the hydrolic lines yourself or did you have them made somewhere? if you had them made did you just use coathangers to make a templete for them?

any pics?

Huh? I haven't done squat yet beside wrestle that 44 out of the trailer into the garage :) gotta finish my insulation and sheet rock this weekend before I can get my truck into the garage.

Well I too have decided to get a ranger box and have both that and the scout box there when I do it, then decide what route to go, sounds like the ranger box will win. Found one on ebay, only up to $15 now but has 4 days left so we shall see. Afterwards I will sell the one I don't use, the scout boxes have a great resale value!:D The ranger shaft should connect right to ours since the BL extender works.

About the front driveshaft, if you dont have the $$$ to spend on a new driveshaft, I found out that chevy makes a driveshaft that will fit, ill be gettin one in a day or 2.... ill let ya know how it fits, only thing is that you have to redrill the holes around the outside.... no biggie

here are a few "work in progress" pics.
my batteries crapped on my camera when i was uploading so youll have to wait for pics on steering. the other thing is. i pu tit in sprung unde rot see how it would be and i am definitely remountin SOA tommorrow. I ordered perches from wilsons 4x4 (http://wilson4x4.com) and they will be here tommorrow.

http://www.flexplorers.com/photopost/data/3002/3side1.jpg

http://www.flexplorers.com/photopost/data/3002/3rearmount.jpg

http://www.flexplorers.com/photopost/data/3002/3frontaxle1.jpg

also i am running into a problem... i bought a flare tool for the brake lines BUT the damned thing wont do right. i took to a machine shop and they couldnt do it either. appprently the tool i bought at the parts shop is for copperline. do they make coppper brake lines? the other option is someone told me about a "compression fitting" that i can make th 2 hard lines work together. does anyone know anythign about this?

guys who are using ranger box - ill have pics tommorrow of my steering shaft. im realy tickled about how it came out. i took the end off the ranger shaft and cut the end off the explorer arm. the ranger arm allowed my slide on the end of the explorer shaft (after i ground the ned down a bit) liek a sleave and weld the hell out of it. i am so tickled about how well it worked out.

Glad it is working out for you. As for compression fittings I have used them in household plumbing and don't know that I would trust them on my brakes. Maybe I don't know what I am doing, but I wouldn't want those on my brakes.

Everything looks great:D

You do not want copper brake lines. Copper corrodes.

You may need to replace the whole line. Generic lengths can be picked up at NAPA.

Robb

Dont use compression fittings on brakes, unless you have a death wish.... it may cost a few extra bucks but its worth it..... I mean, you are putting your life on those brakes right??

"You may need to replace the whole line. Generic lengths can be picked up at NAPA."


i think thats the route im headed.

and for your viewing pleasure here is what i call the "dance of the dismembered crossmember"


http://www.flexplorers.com/photopost/data/3002/3hell_ya_.jpg

your not all there(but few of us are), but atleast you have on your eye protection :):chug:

Dont use compression fittings on brakes, unless you have a death wish.... it may cost a few extra bucks but its worth it..... I mean, you are putting your life on those brakes right??

i agree. thats what the guy at the machine shop suggested. i think napa probably has my solution.

Your fahkin nuts gabe!

Originally posted by BUCHVILLEMAN
and for your viewing pleasure here is what i call the "dance of the dismembered crossmember"


http://www.flexplorers.com/photopost/data/3002/3hell_ya_.jpg

Reminds me of this one:

http://www.###############.com/evil3.mpg

dude i saw your vid like a week before i cut the crossmember off and i was like "thats funny laughing" when that sucker finally came off the bottom of mine i was like "now i understand the laugh" what a sweet rush!

i got brake lines resolved. i had bought one of those $35 double flare kits last week, but the ex has hardened lines that wont flare. im goign to pick up lines that have a softer metal and do the job right. im not going to even romotely risk this. if i feel only 99% about this ill can it andbuy all new lines or whatever i gotta do. i got 2 little boys that love to go wheeling and i cant risk that.

looks like another $20. this projec tis starting to get a little expensive.

about $500 invested so far. new tires and wheels in the next few days too :D :D :D :D

BUCHVILLEMAN

Taking a closer look at your pics..........one question..............shackles?

Robb

edit: oh wait, are those shackles on the front? why did you choose to put them on the front?

Ah, the age old arguement of shackles up front or reversed. If I can remember correctly, shackles reveresed offer a better ride quality whereas shackles up front offer a little better traction since when the spring compresses it pushes the axle forward into the obstical to achieve more traction. Or at least that's what I think I heard.

Interesting. I have heard it mentioned a couple of times, but I never read any of the arguments about it. I was under the impression that since most of the time you are driving forward, that obstacles you hit would drive the axle back and up via the shackle. Whereas, with no shackle in the back, a hit obstacle would just kinda drive the leaf into its own mount with no way to absorb the shock.

Robb

ok... driveshaft comes tomorrow, its a chevy shaft, and from what I hear it will work with just redrilling the bolt holes that hold it to the t-case. Ill keep everyone informed. its MUCH cheaper then gettin one through superlift, this shaft is only $50.

Bling Bling!!!

http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/close2.jpg

i'm impressed-it's come a long way-great job!

that is a work of art!! assuming it works but with cory's rep I am sure it is nothing shy of impressive

BAD ASS!!

also i remember someone here had an extra scout box.

here is a wanted add for one
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=115887

Any pics of the steering yet??

It looks amazing! I smell a SAS in a near future!:bounce: :bounce: :chug:

EDIT:

35's?? :D or 33's???:p

Is there going to be a write up on parts and whatnot? I just got a $1700 tax return, and a raise in march. And if I cancel my warranty, that'll be another 900.

C'mon... what do i do? What do I buy? I swear, whoever walks me through this will get a LOT of beer when I attend my first event.

(One thing though... I need to add an xfer case to my sh1t too)

from my experience watching those with shackle reversal they drop drive shafts left and right. now im not saying that everyone is like this as i know that it can work when engineered properly. i know that its suppossed to increase ride comfort but i dont buy that either - having rode in a jeep with the conversion before and after - the only difference was the dropping of the drive shaft, no real ride comfort. also the driv shaft seem like it would take a greater beating to me. the other thing is - i can swithc it at anytime. my front mounts are identical to rear. im using the waggy shackles.

spring perches will be here and i got gear set coming as well. ill be rolling this weekend.

i dont have my camera with me. ill have pics of steering soon though.

shag,
i think that you could gather most your info from this thread to do this swap. if not then there are like half a dozen guys who i am sure will answer any question you may have. btw- i like beer - so start asking some questions.:D

Originally posted by BUCHVILLEMAN
having rode in a jeep with the conversion before and after - the only difference was the dropping of the drive shaft, no real ride comfort. in my experience with helping someone do this, and driving it before and after, it doesnt help the ride at all. what it does help is the road walk issues. this is no big deal unless you have one thats a daily driver. down south, we have alot of "road sag" from log trucks and summer heat. the heep seemed to stay in its lane much better, without near as much steering input. actual ride quality did not change.

the driveshaft dropping issue can easily be cured with a proper length shaft with alot of spline. we had a local shop modify his for around $100, and it hasnt dropped once since on the trail, even with the 3/4 eliptic springs and 13" travel Rancho's.

we have a lot of grooves in the road too from the log trucks. this is goign to be my daily driver... its all about what works. if shackel forward doestn work then ill swith it around. with the 32s my tires find the grooves bad enough im not sure what it will be like with 33s or 35s.

i had a shop quote me $50 for lengthening but this was to just add some tube im sure. nothing to do with long slip or anything.

thanks for the input.

Originally posted by morrisey0
Bling Bling!!!

http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/close2.jpg

Looks great! got any side shots? Really puts those 33s in perspective.

What did you end up with in the rear? That looks like more than just an SOA?

The shackle reversal is ususally done for tracking purposes on road and you are less likely to bash the shackle on a rock or something on approach. Robb has the stock bumper for now, but he was debating going to something customer later, so I prepped the shackle reversal for the future bumper change.


http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/close1.jpg

http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/close3.jpg

http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/close4.jpg

http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/close6.jpg

Those wheels and tires look familiar;)

that's very sweet. Robb, are you happy with the turn out (if not, to late!) I think that's about how much fender clearance i want on mine. Leaves the possiblity for bigger tires, and plus i think it looks sweet!

Happy trails!!

looking slick man!!!!!!

do you plan on using cable actuator or try to make the vacuum system work?

very nice!!!

One other thing Cory. Will our stock steering shaft work with the ranger box, doing it like lizard did his above?

Happy trails!!

Originally posted by taxxman2k
Looks great! got any side shots? Really puts those 33s in perspective.

i believe those are josh's 35s dave! that puts the lift even more into perspective! he's the only other person i've seen here running mastercrafts.

looks good!

Originally posted by JoshC
One other thing Cory. Will our stock steering shaft work with the ranger box, doing it like lizard did his above?

Happy trails!!

The stock steering shaft won't won't wok without modification.

You have to cut the end off and weld on the rag joint end of a shaft that came with the Ranger steering box.

http://www.flexplorers.com/photopost/data/3002/3P1010011.JPG
explorer shaft

http://www.flexplorers.com/photopost/data/3002/3P1010013.JPG
explorer shaft with half of ranger ujoint on it.

http://www.flexplorers.com/photopost/data/3002/3P1010014.JPG
end shot.

i cut of the end of the explorer shaft and ground it down a bit. i took apart eh ranger ujoint and slid the yoke on the end of the explorer shaft. once everythign is on i plan to get wheels, steering wheel, pitman arm and drag link all in the same direction then weld the end on solid. that way i can have all the adjustment i need.

sorry the pics are poor. my digi camera is blarring with the flash and not fast enough for just a regular light.

http://www.flexplorers.com/photopost/data/3002/3P1010015-med.JPG

perches just got here!!!

damn it why am i at work.:mad: :eek:

Sorry, that was Gabe that was talking about moding the stock shaft not Lizard.

Yep, those are my 35's!

Happy trails!!

Looks good!

are those 15x8? about how much lift did you end up with to clear the 35s? Looks to be plenty of room for flex. I printed the steering gear box pic to add to my collection. :) Are you using the stock pump?

im using stock pump BUT i have not taken this offroad or even down the drivway yet... :rolleyes:

Yeah those are 15x8. Robb has his stock pump, not sure how well it's going to work yet.

Happy trails!!

Originally posted by soupbone
about how much lift did you end up with to clear the 35s? Looks to be plenty of room for flex.

More than stock and less than 20 inches. :D

I don't even pay attention to numbers like that since they are basically meaningless. Build it to run the tires you want with the clearance you need.

Some trimming is going to be needed!

Also, no updates today.

Spent the whole morning waiting for the UPS guy to show up with the heim joints but my money order was $0.90 too short. So I called UPS, found out where he was going to be at 4pm (it was 4pm by the time they told me) and went with the second MO. Got the joints and got back to the shop to find my 3/4" drill bit was toast. Now it is 6:17pm, I have to go home soon to make the "wife" happy for Valentine's Day and I didn't get anything done...GRRRRR.

I shouldn't say that...I did put the battery on charge so at least it should be ready to start up soon.

I'm hoping to get a new bit tomorrow from somewhere, get the drag link made (going to have to have a bend in it for now) until Robb can afford the M.O.R.E. Hi-steer passengerside bracket system, and get the brakelines done if my old Ranger lines will work. Hopefully get the trac-bar bracket made as well. Then it should pretty much be good to go.

Also looks like I am going to have to trim the tranny x-member for driveshaft clearance. Too bad Ford used a shitty half-removable style x-member.

I shouldn't say that...I did put the battery on charge so at least it should be ready to start up soon.
Cory, PLEASE REMEMBER to check the oil first!!! Remember that gauge was reading a little low.:D

Robb

I am so happy to see this all coming together for you guys. I just spent about an hour at four wheel parts getting prices on goodies and talking through some ideas, not to mention just shooting the breeze. But I am glad to see everything working out pretty well. Hopefully I will get started on mine soon...... ;)

I am just curious though what you ended up with in the rear. It looks bigger than just a SOA, but maybe that is just the pics. Is it an SOA with blocks for now? I think someone said once but I can't find it.

Dave,
Right now the rear is SOA with AAL and blocks (not sure on their size). As you can see in the pic, it still has a little sag in the rear. Right now, we will see if the front leafs do any "initial sagging" of their own. If the rear still sits lower, we will prolly just add shackles for now to help it out, but lift springs will definately be a future mod.

Robb

Originally posted by CoryL
More than stock and less than 20 inches. :D

I don't even pay attention to numbers like that since they are basically meaningless. Build it to run the tires you want with the clearance you need.

Some trimming is going to be needed!

Good Lord! less then 20" lift!? You sure.heh Man i want to be able to still fit in some places with a DD! hrmmm

bah guesstimate is about 10" looking at the pics which is fine......

Looks bad ass...congrats Robb

Originally posted by morrisey0
Bling Bling!!!

http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/close2.jpg

Robb, Cory, :eek: I am speechless, looks excellent

question, Robb- what is gonna happen with the flares/running boards? leave 'em on? take 'em off? cut 'em up? etc. etc.

James,

The running boards are coming off. Cory is putting some rocksliders on before it leaves his shop. :D

The flares may stay on until ripped off. I have an extra set of front flares coming from taxxman2 (Thanks Dave!!) just as a single set of back-ups. Of course, the flares are molded into the running boards, so it may depend a little on looks as to if the flares really stay on. If they look REAL dumb, I will just pull them. I do like the look of the flares tho, so I may end up with a little glass work to finish off the flares where they used to meet up with the boards. Basically........I have no idea right now!!

Thanks for the compliments guys!!

Robb

Originally posted by morrisey0
I have an extra set of front flares coming from taxxman2 (Thanks Dave!!)

Robb if you don't mind.....I'm spending this weekend in Indy (it's my B-Day weekend) I met up with Dave yesterday and grabbed thoes flares from him, they are in the back of my truck. I'm going back to louisville on Monday and i will stop by the shop and put them in your truck. We thought it was easier this way, instead of shiipping them.

Yomie,

Yea, Dave PMed me and told me the plan. THAT IS AWESOME!! Thank you very much for doing that!!!!

Happy Birthday!!! http://www.fadzter.com/smilies/birthday.gif

Robb

Lookin good. Might I ask why did you chose a D30 front tho? Seems a D44 would be the extra 50 bucks.

Originally posted by JSA6916
Lookin good. Might I ask why did you chose a D30 front tho? Seems a D44 would be the extra 50 bucks. its the same bolt pattern, same width, and what robb has done to it, its stronger than any "normal" Dana 44.

What all upgrades did he do to the D30, I really didn't read the thread just checked out the pics.

JSA6916,
Right now, nothing has been done to the axle. I have Warn alloy one-piece inner axles waiting to be installed. They are stronger than stuck and throw out the vacuum engagement system. I also have some x297 u-joints and am in the process of looking for a deal on the Warn outer shafts. The subject of how strong a D30 with alloy shafts is compared to a stock D44 is debatable. In my opinion, an HP D30 with alloy shafts is stronger and more problem free than a LP D44. That is just my opinion tho, gathered from as much research as I could do. I don't believe it will be as strong as a HP D44. For the tire size I plan on running and the terrain that the truck will see, the HP D30 should be fine. IF I happen to decide to increase tire size in the future or if the axle can't handle what I want out of it..........then an upgrade to a D44 won't be that difficult. The hard part of actually setting up the suspension and steering will already be done, it will really only be a matter of swapping the axle.

Robb

Robb, have you found a one piece axle shaft for the passenger side? That is the only side that is 2 pieces, drivers side is one piece. I'd be happy if i could get just a 1 piece shaft for that side so that i could ditch the vacuum thing also.

Happy trails!!

Yea, I got the shafts off eBay with the Powertrax, all used. The guy I got them from ran alloy inners and stock outers. His theory was that the outers would be the "weak link" in the chain and if anything broke on the trail it would be the u-joint tabs on the outers and they would be easy to replace. I am not sure how much I buy that theory, so I will prolly get some alloy outers also.

I know that Warn and Superior make such alloy one-piece shafts. I have only found "complete" kits with inners and outers, I am not sure where to look for individual pieces.

Robb

Well, if they sell it as a kit then it would only need to be 2 pieces. The axle shafts themselves. Unless you call the part after the u joint a shaft too. I'm just looking for the shaft that is from the ujoint to the carrier, one piece on the passenger side to get rid of the 2 pieces on there now. There is only the one on the drivers side and it is the short shaft.

Happy trails!!

http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/flex3.jpg

AWESOME robb & cory!! robb what size tires are you gonna run, whatever you can find a good deal on?

35"s of whatever M/T I find a deal on.

BTW: That pic isn't full-flex..........(needs trimming)

Robb

Originally posted by morrisey0
..........(needs trimming)


Ah man, that's what i didn't want to hear. I don't know about you, but i want to keep my flares on. Mine didn't come with them, so i bought them aftermarket, but i like the way they look. I hope there is someway to keep them after the trimming.

Looks great there. Looks like Cory got a steering link made up. Should be to much left then huh?

Happy trails!!

yeah when i measured my wheel well opening at the bottom before i trimmed, it was under 35" by a little. like 34.5" or something. i think your gonna have to trim no matter what lift you have if you want to stuff a 35.

looks good though..

Originally posted by jasonb
i think your gonna have to trim no matter what lift you have if you want to stuff a 35.

Jason, you aren't helping my feelings any! haha

The last time i talked to Cory he said he thought there was going to have to be some trimming.

Cory--how much more can he go if you do enought trimming, flex wise? You have a picture of the rear axle with that flex on it?

Happy trails!!

If you take that plastic off the bottom of the bumper and move the axle forward just a bit you can get away without trimming. You may find you have to move the bumper out just a tad, but spacing that out is easy. I don't think you have as much room to move it forward with a leaf spring setup and it depends on what happens when you flex, but I think it will work well with coils.

Thank you Dave, finally someone with some positive news!! j/k Jason.

Yeah i mentioned to Cory about moving the axle forward just for that reason. Right now there is more room between the tire and bumper then the tire and rear fender. And he is going to make a new front bumper after he mounts the axle (hopefully) that was we have enough room to work. Cory did have a good point that we can move it up, but you don't want to move it to far because of the wheel base. Dave was right, not a whole lot you can do with leafs in this situation, coils you can mount where ever you like.

Happy trails!!

yeah.. i wasn't thinking about moving the axle though.. that would be perfect if you had it moved an inch or even more forward (if possible) and just cut the bumper down. the rear has more spots to rub than the front by a long shot. if i ever get to the SAS, i hope to move forward an inch or two for that reason. btw.. since your getting a new bumper anyway.. just design around that.

Yea, the position of the leafs is a pretty permanent one because of the front mount placed perfectly in the body mount bracket. Right now, I think Cory is going to take off whatever plastic is in the way and flex it from there to measure for shocks. I will take care of whatever permanent trimming needs to take place. I am not to worried about it, the function of the flex is much more important to me than the looks of the fenders. I was planning from the beginning to get a cheapy set of "tin" fenders and trim them to whatever was needed (and try to use Dave's flares on them in some fashion). I would rather take off the original fenders with original flares and store them somewhere safe.:D

Robb

i mounted mine 1" forward but still plan to have to trim just a bit to clear 35s on 10" wheels. i cut out half of the front body mount to slide plate forward. once i give her the initial run (tonight) i plan to comeback and weld the body mount to the plate.

im getting FMExplorer's (aka jonny mcleod) 35 x 1250 xterrains on 15 x 10 black rock crawler wheels:D hopefully this weekend so we'll see how much trimming i gotta do then.

Damn all you SAS'ers....and I was proud of setting up to install my 4" Superlift in March. :(

I did move the axle forward!!!

That is the other drawback to a shackle reversal...the tire will move backwards slightly under flex.

I still think the pros outweigh the cons.

With coils it is totally different, so don't woory too much Josh. I still think you are going to have to trim.

Originally posted by CoryL
I did move the axle forward!!!

That is the other drawback to a shackle reversal...the tire will move backwards slightly under flex.

I still think the pros outweigh the cons.

With coils it is totally different, so don't woory too much Josh. I still think you are going to have to trim.

Yeah look how far out of wack Lizards goes when he flexes. It should be a little more controlled with coils I would think. If anything the radius arms would cause it to move forward under compression and the track bar would push it out the pass. side. But for 35s with flares I can see where you would still have to trim something.

Originally posted by SSIKORA
Damn all you SAS'ers....and I was proud of setting up to install my 4" Superlift in March. :( i know right! make sure when everyone gets done to register in the solid axel registry!! Dave, what are you doin for flares?

Originally posted by TarHeel085
i know right! make sure when everyone gets done to register in the solid axel registry!! Dave, what are you doin for flares? what if mine came with a solid axle from the factory? can i still register there?:D

and BTW, whats the deal with all of this "trimming"? trimming is what us streeters do. just start cutting sh!t off until the tire contacts stuff no more. ;)

Originally posted by james t
what if mine came with a solid axle from the factory? can i still register there?:D

and BTW, whats the deal with all of this "trimming"? trimming is what us streeters do. just start cutting sh!t off until the tire contacts stuff no more. ;)

hehe!

Dave, what are you doin for flares?

nothing! don't want them anymore, they stick out too far and get caught on stuff then ripped off. So I am fill welding the holes and running "ghost" flares. That is my fancy name for a patch of primer all the way around the wheel well. Sometime after my SAS I gotta learn to paint.:D

lol
I moved my axle forward too, about 3" Really didn't have much choice, now my wheel base is about 128" I need to cut up my bumper

ran into a snag last night... after i had all the brake, power steering lines, shocks, drag link hooked up, and the springs tightend down i went to put in the steering shaft. its about 3" too long when its all the way compressed. this was at about midnight so i called it a night. i also didnt get the sway bar hooked up. after that i have to finish mounting rear springs... perches are on but i havent put the axles under yet.

i bought some 1/16" rods to weld sheet metal on my jeep project so ive got a sceme to cut inside the factory bend a symetrical eliptical shape then push it together and seem it up with the smal rod. grind is down prime and paint. the rocker panels are getting herced so im not too worried if its not perfect.

still dont have the gears yet, due to that storm we got .... but I still had fun!!!!!!

Check this out:

http://www.###############.com/donuts.mpg

Dang that looks like fun in the snow!

Ya. I bet your neighbors love you!

glad your having fun.

Originally posted by taxxman2k
Ya. I bet your neighbors love you!

glad your having fun.

Actually, it was my neighbor that was recording it.... I got great neighbors around here!!!

awesome!;)

how thick steel plate will i need to box the frame for the steering box?

will 1/8" work, i have a sheet of that sitting around.

The frame is already boxed up front. Just need to add some support on the other side since you'll have to get long enough bolts to go all the way through the frame.

Happy trails!!

what about that bracket corry made for the steering box, Looks like 1/4"

Originally posted by jeffseal
what about that bracket corry made for the steering box, Looks like 1/4"
Cory didn't box in the frame on mine. He welded sleeves through the frame. Yes, the bracket at the top looks like 1/4".
http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/close4.jpg

The ranger box has 3 holes, one is higher then the bottom 2 so he had to make a mount for the bolt for the top one, the bottom 2 are through the frame. He did have a good idea though. For the 2 bolts through the frame, he drilled the holes a little bigger, welded some sleeves inside the frame and then put the bolts through those, makes it solid all the way through, a lot tougher too.

Happy trails!!

Sorry about that robb, didn't mean to repeat you, you posted while i was typing!

Happy trails!!

I use 3/16" plate for everything.

lizardtrac,
What knuckles are you running, and what bolt pattern?

right now I have the stock waggy knuckles on it, I have a set of flat tops that I just need to get the pass side tapped and then Ill throw them on with a hi-steer setup. bolt pattern is 6 on 5.5.

http://www.flexplorers.com/photopost/data/3002/3lifted1ll-med.jpg
sorry the pic isnt more clear i took this this mornign before i left for work. it looks smaller in the pic. the top of the fender well is 44"!

ive got it all squared away except for a leaking power steering fitting on the return line (i think i stretched the o ring or soemthing.) and i need to power wash and paint the frame and axle parts. also need ot grind a few little pieces off to make it look clean.

--- next up:
-gears will be here soon (bought from guy in PA and cant get to UPS due to snow)
- driveshaft needs to be lengthened
-gotta buy cable actuator
-get tires from jon

ITS RIDE BETTER THAN STOCK EX!!! no lie it is a softer ride and handles very well for being jacked up and on 32s. ill get the power steering line taken care of tonight and take some flex pics. its really flexy!

http://www.jeeptech.com/convaxle/fordeb/soa.html

this is a good resource for understanding all the basics for spring over. after i did the front the rear went up in about an hour. its easier than it seems.

Looks good Gabe, looking forward to seeing some flex shots.

Those are 32S??!! I thought they were stock!! Looks good so far

Looks really good.

I can't wait till I get mine back on the road. Hopefully this weekend
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=68584&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

What if I find some dana 30 from a jeep but with 3.73 I have 4.10, Can I do the swap without connecting the front shaft? ot it will be undriveable till I get the new ones??

Is it the pic or does that front axle look a bit far back?

oso, Yes

or find a jeep with 4.10's I know you are in SA but i know the NA jeeps have 4.10's

That's what I'm looking for, I will post at pirate4x4 forum to find the exact year of jeeps with 4.10's!! I really don't like my IFS that much to stay with it!;):P

Finding a Jeep with 4.10s is like finding an X with 4.10s. It isn't year dependent and it isn't the most popular ratio. You are going to have to find out how to identify the gear ratio in a Jeep to be able to find one.

Robb

look in 4 cylinder jeeps, I have found several with 4.10's
some of the yj had 4.11's but that will work too

dont exactly quote me on this, but through the YJ series the 4 cyl. had 4:10's as an option, but with the 6 cyl. 3:73's were as low as you could get stock. either way, 4:10's in a YJ are not what i would call commonplace.

i was about to buy one in 94, and that stuck in my mind as odd when i was shopping. and no, i never did buy one... so no flames please.:p

what are yall doing for brakelines? can i go to autozone and have custum ones made or will my explorer ones work, or do i need jeep ones?

also i am worried about the length with 10 inches off lift.

i am using xj brakes btw

right now, my TTB lines will work for my D44, but what I need to do, soon, is get some S.S. steel brakeline and I'm going to bend it to the contour that I need, flare it, and get the rubber lines for the 79 Bronco. to get from the frame to the axle, I'm going to get rubberlines made up to go down the trac bar, I think that is the safest way to go:D

I was cruisin through a parking lot... some snow... almost dark out, when out a nowhere BAM!... I hit a 12" high concrete barrier, sent the truck up in the air, hurt like hell too.... almost rolled the damn truck, when I finally came to a stop, I got out, waiting to see the devestating carnage..... one shock mount was bent, and that shock got scraped a bit..... thats it..... that hit would have ripped my old front end apart..... so now Im alot more confident in my fabbing.

Originally posted by lizardtrac
I was cruisin through a parking lot... some snow... almost dark out, when out a nowhere BAM!... I hit a 12" high concrete barrier, sent the truck up in the air, hurt like hell too.... almost rolled the damn truck, when I finally came to a stop, I got out, waiting to see the devestating carnage..... one shock mount was bent, and that shock got scraped a bit..... thats it..... that hit would have ripped my old front end apart..... so now Im alot more confident in my fabbing.

you still going to be able to be in that competion thing?

i used the jeep brake lines with the explorer hard lines. i had to get a flare tool and put new ends on that would screw into the jeep line. i had to tak teh entire brake line off the explorer to flare it as the clamp wouldnt hold the line so i put the clamp in the hydraulic press to hold it and whammo they worked fine.


i went to mud boggs yesterday - still on 32s:D and goofed off a little. i blew a powersteering hose. it was on the send line on the press fitting.

lizardtrac,
what chevy driveshaft did you end up using? im gearing this cominf weekend and i of course wnat to wheel but i still havent had my driveshaft lengthened. i was thinking that if the local boneyard guy who is giving me killer prices on everythign so far might be able to hook me up with a chevy driveshaft for cheaper than getting mine lengthened. the other reaosn i saw a couple guys break drive shafts yesterday and they were both lengthened. so im thinking that they either did piss poor job themselves or had some one do it and it jsut doesnt hold up.

thanks!

I'm a little concerened with my steering set up, need help. I was going to make a draglink up, and go from the Ranger box, to the EB tierod, the way they came back in 76. I have been talking to a few people, and they tell me that the drag link, tierod, and trac bar ALL have to be parrallel, I was under the impression that as long as the DL and TB were the same length, mounted close to one another with the wheels straight, that they were the only things that needed to be parrallel. how much of a problem am I creating if the above are not parrallel to the tierod? and how noticible will it be on the road. I need help fast, my loaner Heep just puked on me, so I need my truck back asap. Thanks guys
Shaun

just the drag link and track bar need to be parrellel. the tie rod should be parallel with the ground.

that's what I was afraid of. The lowest on the frame I can go with the trac bar is 6" below frame, and even where it's at, I'm worried about clearence issues. If I wer to bend the trac bar to raise from the axle, and come to the frame, would that hel at all, and also do the same for the draglink, I'm doubting it will make much difference, I think I'll need to go with a flat top knuckle on the pass. side to make this work. Thanks

Originally posted by jeffseal
the track bar should be parallel with the ground. huh? mine's not. both the trac bar and the draglink on mine are at an angle. as long as they are both at the same angle, its ok. it would be impossible for mine to be parallel with the ground.

sorry i ment tie rod is parrellel to ground. I changed the post

I feel much better, Damn Chevy driver/ race car builder told me that STOCK FORD steering wouldn't work, he recommended GM cross over, which I heard causes the wheels to toe in and out while turning. Thanks guys, back to the project

hey guys ive got a problem and may be you can help....

first is anyone reusing the stock powersteering cooler?
if so where did you mount it?
if i dont need it please let me know. was this more for the rack and pinion or for pump. meanign which one creates the most heat that the cooler becomes necessary. note - non of the other trucks around hte farm have ps coolers so im thinking that unless i have to have it that i wont use it.

can soem one give me exact hose hook up in relationship to pump and box? i know that the output line from the pump is facing the fender well and the return line is under. what about on the box one fitting is larger than the other i assumed that the larger was the send and smaller the return but ive blown 2 lines now. i thin i have them crossed but when i switched them and fill the resevior with thefluid it jerks the wheel and spews fluid everywhere. there is a chance that i had it crossed - switched them but because i added the cooler only confused myself and never actually switched.

anyone have any ideas. i actually drove donw the road and in the mud the other day befor ei blew a line then i rehooked everythign up and couldnt make it out the driveway.

so close:mad: :eek: i gotta have it road worthy by saturday for a longer trip then have it really road worthy as my wife wants to take it on vacationadn not her new car "the explorer is safer.":confused:

the cooler isnt needed, its just for the rack. I had the same problem with the steering box, I hooked em up backwards, that is after having custom lines made for it, and being that one is bigger then the other, I had to re make the lines, the smaller one is the pressure side, and the larger one is the return, I found that out the hard way.

mucho gracias!

thats what i get for making assumptions.

did you end up getting more lines made? im thinking that as long as the pump is off a 4.0 ranger that the fitting on the pump and gear box should be the same. i might check into this.

yeah, I had new lines made.

Got the new tires today from my sponcer......

All I can say Chris is BADASS!!!!!

37's?

too sweet!

going with 10" wheel? unstoppable. cant wait to see the skunk on cover of 4wheeler mag.:eek:

where can you have lines made, is that something you can get at autozone/pepboys?

Originally posted by lizardtrac
yeah, I had new lines made.

Got the new tires today from my sponcer......

what size are those??? 35's? I looked at the MudZilla but I want 37's!

those are 35's, the larger sizes are comming out soon. Ill get 38's when they are available, within the next couple of months.

Cool tires. I love Maxxis and have been using them for a while (on my mountain Bike). I was excited to see they are making truck tires. Let us know how they are.

Can't wait to see your completed truck. Or Robb's for that matter. Or anyone's.

Originally posted by lizardtrac
those are 35's, the larger sizes are comming out soon. Ill get 38's when they are available, within the next couple of months.

I hope you get a D60 to go with those 38s too! :D

After being sick for a week and not being able to work here is where things are at after today.

Today I got the front shock towers mounted and the trac-bar made and mounted.

Gotta forklift flex it again for shock lengths and figure out what to do with the tranny crossmember. The front driveshaft hits it and it will need to be clearanced or something.

Also gotta talk to Robb about some options for him. His rear driveshaft isn't even engaged at the slip anymore. :eek:

that's one of the problems Lizardtrac had, I think he had it lengthened, but I don't know how much

Hey Coryl, my friend Chola, had the same problem with the front driveshaft hitting the cross member, I know I promissed some pics, but he is always busy, so that will be a pic too, I thinking something about cutting it, and welding a new piece of metal, or something like that, I will try to figure that out as soon as possible...


:confused:

in one of the rags, I think Fourwheeler, last month, they adress that issue while indexing a superduty t-case what the essentially ended up doing, was cut the cross member, ans welded in a half piece of 5" diameter .5" wall tubing, and they said it was very strong. Of course, all measurements must be taken from the center piont of the front output shaft on the case, measure twice, cut once

or in my case I cut it twice and it's still too short:D anywho, I think I'll be doing something along those lines

Just felt like throwing a couple more pics!
http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/flexed2.jpg

http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/flexed3.jpg

Sheesh, thats some wicked flex+height for an explorer.... looks really good...... robb! (Is this my first compliment to you? :P)

That def looks sweet Rob!!

is that a hydro ram i see on the axle? the other red thing?

Steering stabilizer

Sweet! Looking good, Robb. Makes me want to change my mind again and do the SAS before the engine swap!

on the last pic, what is that third tube up near the bumper right above the drag link, its not the drag link and its not the track bar.

The bent "V" shaped bar?

That's the front crossmember. Since you have to cut out the old crossmember that held the front diff and the IFS components you need to replace it with something that's out of the way of the SFA and provides a little structural integrety.

<--- Dumb as a box of rocks!!

Since it was already at skyscraper height- did you get any closer shots of the steering setup??

I know this is simple stuff to you guys, but I need pictures...

Cause if I try to get this done in NY...it'll be paint by numbers. :)

cdsl227,
I wil throw you a couple of pics................cause that is how nice a liberal can be!!!:D
Steering Box Mounting:
http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/close6.jpg

Draglink:
http://crlcustoms.com/images/RobbsEx/flex2.jpg

Robb

What a guy!! :)

Thanks!

Coming along great Robb. That looks really good. I hope you don't get to attached to those tires!!! haha.

I'm in Oklahoma City right now and i'll be coming back home the second weekend of march, and i'm hoping to stop by Corys and see the progress he has made. Could see you there, just depends on how Corys work is doing.

Brakelines (not extended, that's up to Robb) are in.

Driveshaft is being lengthened. Should be back tomorrow night or Wednesday morning.

Still have to figure out the tranny crossmember. Shouldn't take but a few hours between Tuesday and Wednesday.

Going to change his oil (low pressure, he's probably a few quarts low :D) and bleed the power steering setup.

Then it gets delivered to my house to wait for him to pick it up.

While I am finishing Robb's, I start Josh's and another project coming in. Full hydro setup on a first gen sport SAS.

Cory, quick question are you compiling a list of components that you will be putting together as a "Kit" to sell??

The more components included the better... :)

You could price it based on the completeness of the kit...I would surely be interested in purchasing something like that.

Thanks! And GREAT WORK!! I know Robb must be happy as hell...

I thought I was going to at first, but the more I think about it, the less I want to with the leaf spring setup. Would seem strange, because I know people would purchase it.

With the leaf spring suspension as I have it set up, a small movement of any of the brackets and the axle is not where it should be anymore. This includes welding up new ones to make sure everything is in place damn near exactly. I just don't want to get into it with the leafs.

As for the coil setup. When I get Josh's working and if I like how it comes out, I will probably sell that as a kit. With only two real brackets (trac-bar and new tranny crossmember), it would be difficult to change the position of the axle relative to the chassis.

Either way, the steering setup requires welding as you need to sleeve the frame for strength as does the tranny crossmember issue with leafs. With the coils, the issue disappears.

So to clarify. No leaf spring kit. Potential for a coil spring kit using a D30 axle or a D44 with the same mounts as an XJ/TJ.

hey guys just wanted to give an update after being road worthy for a week now.

i have not hooked up teh trac bar and have been up down country highways where log trucks beat down everyday and have had NO tracking issues! just leaves nad reused explorer fron sway bar.

i still don thave a front driveshaft and have just been too lazy to get it done. ive got the gears to install too. its been raingin liek crazy and since i work outside i dont want to be dirty and uncomfortable setting up gears.

i pick up tres tommorrow. one thing or another has kept me from getting them for 2 weeks now. im am 99% confident that ill clear 35s with no rubbing and no trimming. this is because i set axle forward an inch.

i have digi camer a with no cord today (dumbass) so pics will have to wait. damn it this is too cool. had a guy in the grocery store parking lot stop and ask me what the "sideways shock was for" pointing at steering stabalizer.

RIDE IS AWESOME!

i still have to get bump stop installed as i can bump frame easy with sway bar disconnected.

Great, Buchvilleman, I can't wait to hear how Robb does with his.

So what are we looking at with the coil kit? I know this is a PITA, but it's your fault!! :D Now I'm sure most guys are fiending as much as I am.

You guys have come up with a cure for the common X, didn't think you get to hog the prescription did ya? ;)

Start cooking up numbers! Seriously, if I can just buy the setup I'll get somebody up here to do it for me...I doubt very much it's something I'd try to tackle myself.

Any idea on the turnaround for the coil SAS?

You guys just killed the market on IFS lifts...I'm sure everybody that was considering the IFS lift is counting their doughnuts and thinking this is definitely the better way to go! I know I am. :D

http://www.flexplorers.com/photopost/data/3002/3front2-med.jpg
http://www.flexplorers.com/photopost/data/3002/3front1-med.jpg

robb, cory, lizardtrac, and all you other gusy that have participated on this thread THANK YOU! i owe you all beer. The info on this thread is very valuable.

YOU GUYS ROCK!

flex shots this weekend after i gear the front and get driveshafts squared away.

OH HELL YEA!

you guys are making me want to go find a ragged out sport somewere and park my Bronco underneath it. ;) for those that dont know what the ###### im saying, i want to get a sport to swap the Bronco running gear onto.

Congratulations BUCHVILLEMAN! Looks very nice!

Maybe someday Ford will take notice and start making some models with solid front axles off the production line. Damn, I'm day dreaming again.

It's hard to believe that Dodge/Jeep is the only one putting solid front axles in anything less than a 3/4Ton truck/suv.

If only I liked Dodge/Jeeps, but I don't.

Looks great BUCHVILLEMAN!!

Mine is just about done, new tires on, gears and locker are in, tranny x-member modified, front axle all put together, just waiting for the new driveshaft thats coming today Fedex. The thing rides great now.

You all might wanna look for the skunk on the outdoor network, 4x4 TV. it will be on the PA Rally episodes soon. The actual rally is this weekend.

:bounce: KICKASS BUCHVILLEMAN!!

thanks guys.

ive still gotta resolve front driveshaft. i dont know if i want to get one lengthened or buy one that is the right size... lizardtrac, didnt you say you were getting a chevy front shaft?

ive also heard that a long bed ranger rear shaft will replace my now short rear shaft. ive got may be .5" of spline in the slip.:eek: does anyone know if this is true?

ive been goofing 2wd in the mud puddles and the edge of the lake. i cant seem to even stick it with these tires, in comparrison to 32 bfg at.

Get that thing in the SAS registry! It will be the first late model Explorer there!! Congrats!!

Oh man, Robbs changed his avatar...now I gotta drool everytime he posts something! :)

Robb, have you driven it yet? :D I'll bet that's the face all you SAS guys have when you CLIMB IN. How's it feel on the road?

Ok, since I'm here, I'm going to ask some questions if you guys don't mind.

Can this be done to an AWD, without changing the transfer case or is it a must that the transfer case be changed?

I figure with the AWD with a selectable locker up front is basically the same thing?

I know you won't have the option of selecting 4x Hi or 4x low...if that makes sense, but it's perfectly feasible, right?

Unlocked up front would be like running an open diffy?

Anybody have any thoughts on this?

Or is my stupidity showing? :D :D

Thanks!

In response to what Bushvilleman said about about Chris using a chevy front driveshaft, well, it was going to be a pain in the ass to get it to fit to the transfercase so he was going to take it to a driveshaft shop to see what the guy there could do with it, but unfourtuantly that guy was on vacation and since we needed the driveshaft to compete in the rally this weekend we had one custom made at http://www.4xshaft.com/ and had it FedExed. This way it will just bolt right in perfectly, I hope.

this could be done with an AWD. But IMO if you are goign to go with all the trouble of the axle swap to gain off road performance then a regualr tcase would be benificial. with AWD youwould never or hardly get 50 50 power/traction to the front and rear.

my thought spring the extra 350-550 for a manual shift BW-1354 tcase and do it right BUT you could in theory hook up an AWD tcase to a solid axle.

thanks for compliment rick.

BTW - it feels great getting in and it handles so awesome on the road

Originally posted by BUCHVILLEMAN
my thought spring the extra 350-550 for a manual shift BW-1354 tcase and do it right BUT you could in theory hook up an AWD tcase to a solid axle.
BTW - it feels great getting in and it handles so awesome on the road

Thanks.

The transfer cases come in electric control? I'm going to have to do some homework on this- I was just about to do the SuperLift for the IFS when I saw Robbs thread and that idea went out the window with a quickness!

I can only imagine how it feels...must be real sweet! :D

I don't know, but it seems like you got yours pretty much dont in a heart beat! How long was your truck down for?

BTW: IT LOOKS NIIIIIIICCCCCEEEEE!!! :D :D :D

I can't wait to be able to climb into something like that!

4 weekends... but had to sacrafice time with kids and wife also much back pain.


imnot sure what you are asking about tcase now... the manual tcase would replace all the electric stuff. its cut and dry mechanical operation. pull stick back one notch 4x4 high, one mor notch neutral, one more notch 4x4 low. no electric controls or anything.

"I can't wait to be able to climb into something like that!"

come down to florida or meet me in manhattan next fall, and you drive mine. wife and i are taking a 5 day vacation and staying in the city. we try to go every other year but have missed 2 years so i know we will make it this year.

we might even make it to brooklyn if we decide to visit friends from college there.

Originally posted by BUCHVILLEMAN
imnot sure what you are asking about tcase now... the manual tcase would replace all the electric stuff. its cut and dry mechanical operation. pull stick back one notch 4x4 high, one mor notch neutral, one more notch 4x4 low. no electric controls or anything.

"I can't wait to be able to climb into something like that!"

come down to florida or meet me in manhattan next fall, and you drive mine. wife and i are taking a 5 day vacation and staying in the city. we try to go every other year but have missed 2 years so i know we will make it this year.


That's what I thought, you already had a hole for the shift...or did you punch one?

I don't have an existing hole, I'd have to punch one, unless there's an electronic transfer case option...something with a switch set up to get 4Hi/4Lo.

I'd hate to have to punch the hole. :(

I think if I got near one of the SAS Late Models - I'd stand there drooling like an idiot! :D

All I can say is Beautiful!! Absolutely Beautiful!

In the city you never see trucks set up like you guys have done yours...I got to this board and been stuck on stupid ever since! :confused:

Definitely PM me if you come up this way! I'll get the beers! Hopefully I'll get mine done up over the summer. ;)

the hole is easy. either a sawzall/jigsaw to cut it yourself or get the tranny hump pan that has the hole in it.

btw - whenever ive used junkyarddog.com i have alwasy gotten excellent prices from a yard in NY. might be worth checking into when you are buying parts.

ill take you up on teh beers:D :D im goign to have a few tonight;)
have agood one im headed to the house!

BUCHVILLEMAN: Your X rocks! Looks great, like it supposed to be there! All you guys are teasing me, I guess I'd better get the SAS done.

cdsl227: I'm not sure on the 2nd Gen X, but the first Gen's have a plate in the trans hump that unbolts to have the Manual T-case shifter poke through. Some of the other guys could tell you for sure. Do a search on here re: Manual BW-1354. Trust me, you don't want electric shift.

Thanks! I'm going to start doing the research on the transfer case...

:D :D

Well, its done, Officially 100% done, driveshaft is in, 4wd works great with the locker up front..... Im now a happy camper.

congrats man! i cant wait to see pics of you teariing it up (terrain that is.)

you da man!

Pics!! I wish there was a coil SAS on an X to look at!

But I'll drool over any pics anybody tosses my way! :confused:

http://www.###############.com/final.jpg

http://www.###############.com/final1.jpg

http://www.###############.com/final2.jpg

http://www.###############.com/final3.jpg

http://www.###############.com/final4.jpg

Is there any way we can go through and either cut out all the comments, or re-write a full writeup on peoples individual trucks? This thread is many pages long, and could be concentrated quite a bit - easier reading. The information is absolutely invaluable, and the talent amazing... but for someone with a short attention span like myself... well, I may never join your ranks.... Maybe I need some focusin.

Shag,
I believe individual write-ups will be in the "Solid Axle Registry" Forum. This thread is just for bouncing ideas and showing pics. IMO, IT IS ONE HELLUVA THREAD!!

Chris, JAW DROPPIN!!!

I am becoming like a kid on Xmas eve at this point!!!

Robb

Lowe's Knows!http://www.haughs.net/smilies/rockin.gif

OMG. Man, you guys suck! Wish mine was done already!

cdsl227--check out my thread under this forum, Cory is working on my Coil suspension right now.

Robb, any idea when you are going to pick yours up? I'm going to stop by and see Cory on friday and help out if i can.

Lizard, What are you being sponsored for and who is sponsering you?
And did they give you those tires or did you get a huge discount?

Ryan

lizard, how did you come up with 16 inches?
soa=5.5 + 3" blocks + 3inch body lift =11

do you have add a leafs in the rear or do you have different springs in the rear?

Im being sponcered by Maxxis tires for the PA Rally that is this weekend, they gave me all 5 tires for free.

I got 16 by measureing stock and then mine..... it actually ended up to be more in the end.

is that with the tires? or 16" lift?

I'm beggin again...Robb was your X AWD? Did you have to cut for the shift for the transfer case?

I'm not too familiar with all the ins-and-outs of the transfer case.

If anybody has a pic or two of the shift layout inside the cab...I'd appreciate seeing them.

I have an AWD no shift inside and the console that runs from the Dash to the console (compartment) between the seats.

I'm gathering ideas for cutting and mapping as much out beforehand.

Thanks Guys!

is this what you are looking for?
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/sealteam37212/vwp?.dir=/truck&.src=ph&.dnm=picture---1.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/sealteam37212/lst%3f%26.dir=/truck%26.src=ph%26.view=t
the pic is from jefe's truck

Originally posted by jeffseal
is this what you are looking for?
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/sealteam37212/vwp?.dir=/truck&.src=ph&.dnm=picture---1.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/sealteam37212/lst%3f%26.dir=/truck%26.src=ph%26.view=t
the pic is from jefe's truck
That ain't my truck. Who else has an Atlas in a 2nd Gen? Ray Lobato?

Here's mine:
http://www.jefethegreat.com/host_pics/Atlas-knob.jpg

my bad, yeah its Ray's

Ray truck rocks

Ryan

Thanks Guys, that actually looks sweet.

I was a little worried I'd end up with something that'd look like a hack job, but that looks like it belongs.

That's in an automatic? I'm assuming transfer case would have to be shifted at a standstill...not on the fly while moving?

Excuse my stupidity, I'm trying to get a handle on this before commiting and purchasing parts...

There's no clutch involved here right? I have a friend that had a 4x4 pickup, but his tranny was manual, so I'm not too sure on operation...I'm just trying to educate myself on how the transfer case operates...

Once again, Thanks a Million! :)

On the stock manual tcase you can shift to HI on the fly. For low you have to stop and shift. I think the atlas II you have to be moving to get it into low. Am i right Jefe?

With the Atlas you can do all shifting, with the exception of Hi to Lo on the fly. You just have to put the tranny in Neutral to go from Hi to Lo and Lo to Hi. All changes have to be done while moving.

Thanks for clarifing that for me.

Robb--did you get to pick up your explorer this weekend? What are your next plans to get her finished up?

YES! The "Yuppie" made it home this weekend! :D

MY ADVICE: Don't tow a truck through the mountains of W. Va!!! 9 hours out there with empty trailer, 11 hours back loaded. Not a fun ride!

Next plans: Shocks, tires, and some minor "tweeking". I would put off tires til the end, but the thing just looks silly sitting out front with the little tires on it. Cory left Josh's tires on it until I got there so I could see how it would look.........um..............KICKASS!!! I am pretty sure I acted like a deer in headlights the whole time I was at Cory's cause I was simply in shock the whole time.

Hopefully the financial "god" will quit kickin my a$$ for awhile so I can get some stuff done on it soon. To get it "done" is going to take a bit and will prolly take quite awhile.

Robb

congrats bro! i cant wait to see pics of it all finished!


btw - i know the feeling:D ;) :eek: :confused: :) :) :)

Originally posted by morrisey0
YES! The "Yuppie" made it home this weekend! :D

MY ADVICE: Don't tow a truck through the mountains of W. Va!!! 9 hours out there with empty trailer, 11 hours back loaded. Not a fun ride!

hahaha. Welcome to my world!

What did you tow it with Robb?

Well, had the truck out on the trails this past weekend, I really put a beatin on it, 30+mph offroad rough trails for 3 hrs strait, it held up great, gotta get used to that front locker tho. its a bit hairy on the road above 65mph, so I gotta work on that. I got alot of compliments on the truck on its first ride out since the SAS. Ill be taking it out again this sunday.

So no breakage huh Chris? Had me a little worried for a little while! Did it perform good?

Originally posted by JoshC
So no breakage huh Chris? Had me a little worried for a little while! Did it perform good?

Nope, the steering is a bit screwy but other then that, just a loose shock. It performed great, only got stuck once at Paragon, I was trying to get used to the locker and accidently threw myself off the trail into a ditch, and nailed a tree with my pass side door.

Originally posted by lizardtrac
Well, had the truck out on the trails this past weekend, I really put a beatin on it, 30+mph offroad rough trails for 3 hrs strait, it held up great, gotta get used to that front locker tho. its a bit hairy on the road above 65mph, so I gotta work on that. I got alot of compliments on the truck on its first ride out since the SAS. Ill be taking it out again this sunday.



So what is the reliable or should I say "safe" on road (highway) speed for the SAS on the X after all the tweaking?

Does it feel like it'd make a decent say 50-75 mile a day daily driver?

Depends on where you go, if you're driving 50 - 70 miles around Brooklyn you're never getting up that far in speed so it would be fine. Whenever I drive to Brooklyn/Queens/City I always use the lifted truck because it rides on the rough stuff better plus its quite intimidating to the cabbies and such since I'm not affraid to dent the hell out of it.

EDIT: Woo Hoo 500 posts! it only took me 3 years to get there.

if you do it right there shouldnt be any problem. many stock trucks come with solid axles. it is not the solid axle that is going to limit speed it will be your suspension setup and TIRES

Originally posted by DasFrem
Depends on where you go, if you're driving 50 - 70 miles around Brooklyn you're never getting up that far in speed so it would be fine. Whenever I drive to Brooklyn/Queens/City I always use the lifted truck because it rides on the rough stuff better plus its quite intimidating to the cabbies and such since I'm not affraid to dent the hell out of it.

EDIT: Woo Hoo 500 posts! it only took me 3 years to get there.

OMG!!! Exactly my thoughts!!! :D :D

I drive in Manhattan on a daily basis...one thing I noticed- the rougher it looks the further away people stay!

I had a hitch step in the back that got banged all the time. Got tired of buying new ones...the last was my third- put a tow ball in there and man does it get respect. Even though a cop car banged into me this morning. :D He was parking, don't think he saw the ball.

But the streets here s#$k!! To say the least...but I do go to Florida with the truck occasionally and I like traveling at like 70-80mph- that said I WANT THE SAS!!

That's the only thing that's gonna cure the KID in me!:D

I had it up about 80mph on I81 the other day, it was a bit hairy but since I never tested it out b4 it went very well, I now know what modifications to make so the truck will handle the high speeds much better and safer. Trial and error, thats what it takes for doing something that hasnt been done b4. I drove the truck untested for 400+ miles accross PA and back on AND off road, and it performed far beyond my expectations as beginner fabricator.

You guys doing the SAS conversions on the X are freakin Pioneers!!!:thumbsup:

You're also bad on the freakin wallet too!:p

I've been reading these threads counting the doughnuts and stalking e-bay for axles!

I'm looking at the Leaf Spring conversion because it looks like it'd take a better beating, but I'm not ruling out the coil yet...I wanna see what Cory comes up with for JoshCs X.

I'm looking for something I can just pretty much buy a bolt on kit. Up here in NYC I had a hard time finding a shop that'd do the SuperLift- AND THEN- you SAS Guys- got me fiending like a crackhead in a room full of broken sheetrock! :D You guys are killing me!

I think if I saw one your SAS's next to an Expedition I'd have to retire to the bathroom with a paper towel. :confused:

Sorry didn't mean to get graphic there, but damn...the picture of yours on the snow mountain had me drooling- then Gabe went and did with his X in front of his wifes car- that one just killed me!

I can't wait to see pics of Robbs finished.

I'm curious about how much wider the front track is in comparison to the rear with the front axle at stock length, I'm sure that coud be evened up with some backspacing in the rear...or is the wider front track better?

I think if I saw one your SAS's next to an Expedition I'd have to retire to the bathroom with a paper towel.
I already got that pic planned out. I got a buddy with a green Expo EB with a mild lift and looks just like my X EB, only bigger. It will be interesting to see them together when mine gets close to done.

Robb

speaking of expeditions, I love it when I pull next to one and im able to see clear over his roof....

Robb if you dont mind tellin' what is your total expenses, for you SAS?

Ryan

Hey cdsl227, Namitey(Doug) and I are also looking at doing the coil route. From the looks of it all, it might be easyier than the leaf route since there should be less fabrication involved. I'm also anxious to see what route Cory takes with Josh's truck.

Here's what I have planned so far.
Get a HP D44/9" from a 78-79 Bronco/F-150 and get them shortened to EB width (I want to go 4.88 or 5.12 gears with Detroit rear ARB front). Also get the coil buckets from that vehicle.
Get the James Duff Stage 3 tubular extended radius arms (see pic)
http://www.jamesduff.com/images/eb/5350.jpg
And use some sort of 5 inch Broco lift springs and then custom fab a trac bar.
Steering would be the same as Lizzard and Robb's with a Ranger box

The advatages to this set up would be that it would be primarily bolt on with as little welding as possible, it would place the weight where the old IFS was hooked up on the frame and would flex like a mother. It will be a bit pricey, I know that, but I'm saving every penny right now to make this thing happen

that is what i am doing, using the EB suspension, you will have to make drop brackets for those RA. if you look at your frame there is not the large in the front like the early broncos. I have every thing ready just waiting on the coils.

there are some pics of all the EB pieces under seals sas.

Robb,

Now that your X is back in town, when are you going to bring it out and show it off? You may want to pick up a Trading Post and look for some used tires. You may also want to call the local 4x4 shops to see if anybody has tires for sale.

with both sway bars hooked up i can cruise all day long at 85mph... with jus the rear unhooked its squirrely as hell!

ide like to see the coil set up too. with some nice coil over, long travel, remote resevior shocks....:D

DasFrem- That sounds like a nice setup using the extended radius arms.

Bolt-on sounds gooooooddd!!!!

I'm try to do this without having to chop axles down and all that...I can live with the wider track up from if it's not a problem on the highway.

And hell, if I can run at 85mph Gabe I'd be happy with that although, after the speeder I just got coming home from skiing about a week ago, maybe I should consider doing something that'll slow me down a little. :(

with a coil setup i think that you are still going to have to weld quite a bit. the coil buckets and shock mounts as well as crossmember and sway bar mounts.

welding aint so bad. practise and get the hang of it first. the hardest part is cutting! i used a torch on part and a swazall on part and grinder to clean it all up. i like using the torch but i was paranoid about catching the truck on fire.... i did a few times:eek:

i feel paranoid about braking at 85mph! even though the brakes work awesome and im confident in my welding of the perches and bolting on of everything else, sitting that high it is very intimidating to brake hard. so i generally keep it at 50-60 which is 60-70 with the larger tires and speedo offset.

Does the width of the track in the front as opposed to the width of the track in the rear play a huge role in handling??

I mean granted it's only what about an inch?

What's the best year/type to use for coil and best year for leaf?

I'm trying to go minimal grief, junkyards and shops out my way aren't as helpful with stuff like this- if it isn't direct replacement they want no part of it.

Thanks!

Well, Chris (Lizzard) got his from an 85 Grand Wagoneer (refered to as Waggys) So they're on all the Waggys with a drivers side drop and low pinion pumpkin with leaf spring pearches. You can use the Early Bronco (EB) alxes that are also low pinion and set up for coils with Radius Arms (RA) but what is prefered is the 78-79 D44 High Pinion axle out of a Bronco/F150 since it's stronger than the low pinion axle, but you have to cut it down to EB width (if you don't want to run full width) A little more pricey, but I think it's worth it.

BUCHVILLEMAN, I know there's gonna be more than enough welding, but it looks like it will be less than a leaf setup, hopefully. I'm trying to read as much as possible on the subject and practice as much as possible so that I will be ready for when the project begins.

Hopefully I'm going to purchace all my parts and get them all ready before starting the project. Lizzard and Muskrat got hurried into theirs because of broken parts, hopefully I'll keep mine together a little longer so that I can take my time.

Originally posted by DasFrem
...but what is prefered is the 78-79 D44 High Pinion axle out of a Bronco/F150 since it's stronger than the low pinion axle


Actually, those aren't the preferred axles. That axle has the c-bushing wedges cast into the axle and are not easily removeable. This is an important factor unless you like your radius arms to be angled like \ / (when looking from above).

The ideal axle to use is a 1977 or older (not far how back, but it does matter) F-150 D44. It will be HP and the c-bushing wedges will be welded on and can easily be removed and rewelded so your radius arms are closer to looking like | | .

Originally posted by CoryL
The ideal axle to use is a 1977 or older (not far how back, but it does matter) F-150 D44. It will be HP and the c-bushing wedges will be welded on and can easily be removed and rewelded so your radius arms are closer to looking like | | .

I did not know that. I thought the first D44HP was in 78. See, I'm still learning new isht every day. How then did the other guys who shortened their 78-79 axles move the c-bushing wedges?

EDIT: Here's another question, how hard would it be to run them full size instead of cutting them down with those exteded RA's? or since they're about 6" wider would it be all out of alignment for good use?

Robb, how did you end up doing the brake lines? You gonna have two coming down - one to each side or just one coming down in the center then split to the sides? I am thinking it might be easier with our setup the way it is to have two seperate lines come down, just gotta keep them out of the way.

Originally posted by BUCHVILLEMAN
ide like to see the coil set up too. with some nice coil over, long travel, remote resevior shocks....:D
Just wait :D

I'm hoping to begin cutting off the IFS in about 6 weeks :bounce:

:D :D i cant wait!

seriosuly thats what i would prefer but mine was a budget job. its gonna be so sweet!

Originally posted by DasFrem
I did not know that. I thought the first D44HP was in 78.

The hipinion was first available in broncos in 78 when they went to full size. I believe the high pinion started in 73 with the f150s. Also I think they started coming with disk brakes in 78. I have a 76 in my garage and it is drum brake and has the welded on ears for the radius arms.

Also you guys are all nuts cutting up almost brand new truck to do this to. I like it :D i think I may want to get a newer explorer eventually to do this cause I am liking how they are turning out.

Matt

Ryan1: I will work out a detailed total cost in the future, but it is hard to predict for a future SAS because there are so many variables involved. For now, just for the axle and all involved in getting it under there with steering (no shocks), I got about $1000 in parts in it. IMO, cheap compared to a SLA susp lift!!!

unclemeat: I have checked out the Trading Post and every other "used merchandise" outlet here in Richmond. I know a dealer that can get me 35/12.5 Regul Trailblazer MTs mounted and balanced for $525 out the door, so, that will prolly be the route I take.

BUCHVILLEMAN: Sway bars? What are sway bars? J/K! I don't have any and don't plan on any. I never trusted my X in stock form over 75mph, so I should be okay.

taxxman2k: The brakelines are set-up just as they were stock with the two seperate front lines. They aren't set-up like a typical solid axle with one hose going to the axle and then split to hard lines from there. I need to get extended hoses for both sides at this point.

RockRanger: I agree we are nuts!!! My '95 EB with it's mileage in stock form is prolly worth about $6-7K. Now, I would be lucky to get half that!!:D

Robb

Originally posted by CoryL
Actually, those aren't the preferred axles. That axle has the c-bushing wedges cast into the axle and are not easily removeable. This is an important factor unless you like your radius arms to be angled like \ / (when looking from above).

The ideal axle to use is a 1977 or older (not far how back, but it does matter) F-150 D44. It will be HP and the c-bushing wedges will be welded on and can easily be removed and rewelded so your radius arms are closer to looking like | | .

I am going to have to disagree with you here, unless you are only talking about using the axle full width. If you are cutting it down, then the c-wedges are already in the right place. Mine angle out, but only enough so that the coils can be mounted outside of the frame rails. If your radius arms were like this: | | , then your lower coil mounts would then lie directly under the frame rail.

Originally posted by morrisey0
RockRanger: I agree we are nuts!!! My '95 EB with it's mileage in stock form is prolly worth about $6-7K. Now, I would be lucky to get half that!!:D

Robb

Hell with the SAS you'd probably get twice what you thought!:D

Errr, ummm...excuse me- I mean twice what the book is!

Originally posted by RockRanger
Also you guys are all nuts cutting up almost brand new truck to do this to. . .
I'm not nuts Matt. . .I'm just making my rig capable of following around those of you that are :p :D

Originally posted by MuddWhore
I am going to have to disagree with you here, unless you are only talking about using the axle full width. If you are cutting it down, then the c-wedges are already in the right place. Mine angle out, but only enough so that the coils can be mounted outside of the frame rails. If your radius arms were like this: | | , then your lower coil mounts would then lie directly under the frame rail.

I always forget people want to cut axles down so I never take it into consideration. I don't really understand why. :D

True, if the arms were exactly like | | then they would be under the frame if the rear mounts were under the frame, which is why I said "closer" to | |. There is nothing inbetween | | and \ / :D

Ok Gentlemen, all you Straight Axle Gods... :D

Boy I brown-nose good!!

I need some questions answered because it looks like I'm going to do the SAS sooner than I thought...

Please anyone that has done the SAS or has the necessary knowledge- educate this idiot! :D
Questions:

Why use the Leaf spring for SAS?


Conversely- why use Coil for SAS?


Is there an advantage of one over the other?

Which is more durable- Leaf or Coil? (only reason I ask is because I've dropped front ends (coil), but never had a rear drop on me (leaf, that is).

Is there any simple solution to the steering- or is it that nothing fits or there's nothing that can be used from another vehicle and everything has to be fabricated (aside from the steering box), ie drag link, trac-bar and anything else?

I know that last question is like duh!! Trust me I've read all the posts regarding the SAS conversion...I must be stuck on stupid or something...

I'm in NYC, more specifically Brooklyn- there isn't a single shop in NYC that I would trust to fabricate anything and aside from that- they probably wouldn't want to do it anyway. All the shops out here cater to gypsy cabs, dollar vans and cabs...not exactly a reliable source for what I'm about to do...so I'm moving forward with a wish and a dream for this SAS.

From my experience with it...........coils are the way to go! And that opinion is not biased at all since I went the opposite way (and by no means complaining!!!). Coil SASs are easier to fab in many regards. The performance of each is VERY debatable and a whole nother thread in itself. BUT, since, at this moment in time, I don't know of any completed coil SASs on SLA Explorers...........the final word remains to be seen. CoryL would be the man to ask soon, since shortly, he will be responsible for both a coil and a leaf SFA conversion on SLAs. He would be the one with the most insight inside the exact pros and cons of each (fab wise).

Robb

Originally posted by morrisey0
From my experience with it...........coils are the way to go! And that opinion is not biased at all since I went the opposite way (and by no means complaining!!!). Coil SASs are easier to fab in many regards. The performance of each is VERY debatable and a whole nother thread in itself. BUT, since, at this moment in time, I don't know of any completed coil SASs on SLA Explorers...........the final word remains to be seen. CoryL would be the man to ask soon, since shortly, he will be responsible for both a coil and a leaf SFA conversion on SLAs. He would be the one with the most insight inside the exact pros and cons of each (fab wise).

Robb

You ay want to try a search over at pirate too and see what those guys have to say about it. There are pros and conts to both.

Hey Robb, when are we gonna see some pics of that thing in action or at least some flex pics...i may be missing something and you could have posted some but i just havent seen them...

I would like to say thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread. I have been reading for 2 hrs. now and I just finished the thing.

One thing that was not covered in the thread is what was done with the ABS. Was it converted to rear wheel abs with 91-92 master cylinder?

Also what is the distance off the ground you can lift the front tire before the back one comes off. I am curious because I have pretty good articulation with TTB but want to go with the solid front, but want more articulation. The pic with the fork lift (the one without the flares or molding) looks like only about 32 in. or so.

Also to CoryL: Thanks for always posting your work. I know sometimes that it sucks to show all your secrets for everyone to look at and possibly copy.

Everyone with the solid front my hats off to you, and evryone planning on doing it good luck.

GaSouthern1,
Since about the time I got the truck back, I have been in financial hell, so it isn't 100% ready for driving yet. Hopefully, in a couple of weeks.

hvac man, I am just tossing my ABS. I will end up with single lines straight out of the master bypassing the ABS Module alltogether. Can't help ya with any of the articulation measurements yet.

Robb

You changed your name, cool:cool:

By getting rid of your ABS, will that do anything to your computer, like maybe throw a code or something?

you actually have to bypass the ABS? You can't just use the existing lines?

You can use existing lines. I have been doing it for several years without a problem. Removing the antilock crap from under the hood frees up a lot of room though. I'm considering doing it for that reason.

Originally posted by Rick
You can use existing lines. I have been doing it for several years without a problem. Removing the antilock crap from under the hood frees up a lot of room though. I'm considering doing it for that reason.


hmmmmm
might as well since I want to re-route the lines anyway.

Mine is setup right now to use existing lines, but I would have to get extended ones for full articulation. My plan now is to use a single line from the master cylinder out to a BroncoII rear hose, out to the front near the center of the axle (not too much movement). Then split it from there.

Then I plan to adapt the rear line from the ABS Module to go directly to the master cylinder and remove the Module. Like Rick mentioned, it gives a little more room under the hood.

But what then do you do with the one extra line from the front?

I want to remove my ABS module so that I can have a little more room for the coil-over hoop and dual battery setup. . . but the ABS module doubles as the VSS [vehicle speed sensor] in the 99+ :rolleyes: Guess I'll have to figure out how to take the Atlas II Jeeps VSS and make it work after all.

Originally posted by taxxman2k
But what then do you do with the one extra line from the front?
I will prolly start by removing both the existing hard lines to the front. Then replace with a single hard line to the front middle. NAPA sells generic length brake lines locally.

You guys now have me thinking about this too much. Now I will have to make it this weekend's project.;)

EDIT: Just to clarify that. The brake lines leave the master cylinder as only two lines, one front and one back. The ABS Module is where the single front line gets split into two lines.

Since in some cases the ABS is advantageous to have, has anybody given any thought as to how it could be set up to KEEP the ABS??

I kinda think the ABS isn't all that bad...I wouldn't mind keeping it when I do the SAS on mine...

Any thoughts?

Like hvac_man mentioned earlier, there is prolly a way to fit in a 1st gen Rear ABS setup in there. I would think, not sure.

It would take a lot of work and creativity to keep 4-wheel ABS. It could be done of course, but I don't think it would be worth it. The ABS system on Explorers was never that great of a system anyway. Also, since most SAS Xs are built for trail riding, losing the ABS isn't a big concern.

EDIT: BTW hvac man, what kind of hvac work do you do? I am a balance guy.

Robb, sounds like you still got your work cut out for you on this project, but it is looking good. I am curious to see that thing wheel.

BTW: my dad owns a small family run heating air conditioning company and we do everything, all aspects of forced air. Mostly residential new construction. Your job is just to go out and balance systems that have already been installed?

Well keep the progress reports comming cause its fun to follow and have fun.

I'm determined to keep my ABS. As Jefe mentioned, it's also the VSS on my '99. I know that ABS isn't really that important on a trail rig, but I'll still drive mine on the street sometimes. I'd rather not give it up if I don't have to. Also, when I finally am able to do the SAS, the financial side of it shouldn't (cross fingers) be too big of an issue, so getting a little creative won't be too bad. Of course, I'll post it all once it starts. It'll all be documented thoroughly.

I'm hoping to find a way to keep mine also...this is my daily driver and she will be a street queen, but I will feed here some dirt here and there.

Besides driving on some of the streets here is like being off-road! :D

I have no issues losing the ABS on mine even snce it will see street miles too. ABS is just another function for people that can't drive. Sure it has is advantages, but cars went years without ABS and I actually prefer not to have it. I know how to drive and I adjust my driving for the weather.

What's ABS?:D My 97 doesn't have it