Aaron "V8BoatBuilder"s Elite Explorer Registry Page

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3736/IMG_0973.jpg
Rausch Creek Off Road Park, PA. 33" Tires, 4" Lift

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001322.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422ccmounty_web-med.jpg
West Dennis Beach, Cape Cod, MA. Truck as purchased, Christmas Eve 2002

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3263/13422dsc00439.jpg
Got lost on the way to the mall..... Offroading in New Hampshire. November 2003

Introduction
I have set up this thread to detail my modifications, provide some step by step instructions for many of them, list my tips for general maintence procedures, and even throw a writeup or two of anytime I decide to subject my truck to the abuse of off-pavement driving.

I strongly encourage all members of Explorerfoum to read this thread, or skim over my dry writing and just look at the photos. Hopefully you can find a usefull tip or learn a little bit about your Mountaineer or Explorer. If you have a question, feel free to PM me, or even post it here. I've edited many posts to reflect conversations I've had over PMs. So yea, check the "older" posts, since I sometimes update them too..... (I have way too much time it seems....)

Now the Disclaimer:
If you follow any of my writeups or tips, I take no responsibilty for damage or injury you may encur. Always double check your work, and make sure everything makes sense. Never work under a truck that is only supported by a hydraulic jack - use jack stands! Remember, some systems, such as brakes, can affect others if you are not careful. Have fun, and get greasy. Make that truck your own.

Specifications As She Stands, 1/19/08:
Year, Make: 1997 Mercury Mountaineer
Color: Black, with gray trim and body cladding
Engine: 5.0 Liter 302cu in. V8. GT40p Heads.
Battery Duralast Gold Grp 65 Wet Cell, custom wiring
Transfer Case: Borg Warner 4406 Control-Trac w/Torque on Demand and low range.
Front Drivetrain: Dana 35 SLA, 4.56 gears, Open Differentail, Center Axle Disconnect
Rear Drivetrain:Ford 8.8" 31 Spline, 4.56 gears, Track-Lock Limited Slip
Tires: Interco TrXus MT 33x12.5R15 on Cragar 15x8 Chrome Plated Steel Wheels
Interior: Gray with Leather and Mountaineer stitching
Options and Creature Comforts Power Seats, Alarm system, remote keyless entry, power locks, power mirrors, overhead console with Autodim mirror, outside temp, compass. Rear Air. Message Center.

Modifications:

Page One (You are here)
- Ford OEM Class III trailer hitch installed 1/10/03
- Rancho 9000x 9way Adjustible shocks installed 2/14/03
- Aux reverse lights installed 2/15/03
- Oil Pressure Sender conversion in progress 3/14/03
- Front Tow hooks installed 3/31/03
- JC Whitney Full Brushguard installed 3/16/03
- Hella 500 Driving Lights installed 3/17/03
- Audio System including: Pioneer MP3 headunit, Pioneer 12 disc changer, Alpine v12 Mono Amp, Dual 10" Rockford Fosgate Subs (Now removed), Sound deading insulation installed 3/18/03

Page Two
- Explorer Express Swaybars installed 4/13/03
- MAC open element Air Intake installed 8/15/03
- Ventshade VentVisors installed 8/15/03
- Custom made Stealth Subwoofer Box with Kenwood eXcelon 10" DVC woofer installed 8/17/03
- Warrior Shackles installed 11/20/03
- Aux Transmission Filter Installed 12/20/03
- Autometer guages (oil pressure, oil temp, trans temp) Installed 12/21/03
- Torsion bar adjusters, January 2004

Page Three
- 2" Front Lift from TT, Add-a-leafs in rear Installed Janurary 2004
- Front control arm Camber Adjusters, Installed January 2004
- 31" BFG AT KO tires Installed January 2004
- Custom Front skidplate, February 2004
- New head Gaskets and a Valve job, June 2004
- Accell DIS coils, Taylor Ignition wires, June 2004

Page Four
- Baumann Engineering Shift kit and other 4R70W Mods, December 2004
- Message Center, January 2005
- Torque Monster Headers, March 2005
- Cruise Controll Deactivation Recall, June 2005
- Control Trac/4x4 trasnfer case swap, June 2005

Page Five
- More on the 1st BW4406 swap EVER!!

Page Six
- Waterpump, Timing Chain, Timing Cover, Cooling Hose Replacement
- Superlift K494 4" Front Lift, Central Axle Disconnect Swap
- Custom Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
- Rear SOA, 4.56 Gears


Planned Mods...
- Custom Rocksliders
- Custom Rear Bumper w/Tire Carrier
- Fatmat entire interior
- Sandblast, POR 15, and paint underbody, suspention and frame.
- Replace rear leaf spring bushings with Energy Suspention Poly
- Lockers
- A Pillar grab handles
- Flowmaster Exhaust with 50 series delta flow(s) with dual 2.5" piping or single 3", custom downpipes and high flow catalytic converters.
- Upgraded door speakers and amp
- SCT chip w/87 octane program(s)
- FMS E303 Cam and Roller Rockers
- Cut the roof off and put in a cage!!

Help.... this list is getting too short!

These photos were taken the night I purchased the truck: (Christmas Eve 2002)
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422aaron_s_mountaineer2.jpg


ENJOY THE THREAD!

The truck had 106k mi when I purchased it, and I think the shocks were original. It was time to upgrade. I chose Rancho 9000x shocks for all four corners. After lots of research, these shocks seemed to get consistent high marks. The 9 position adjustibility is a plus as well.

I ordered them from www.summitracing.com and started the install on Friday evening. Its going longer than expected, mostly due to frozen bolts.

Following the shock install thread in the "List of usefull threads" forum, I started the rears first.

Front P/N: RS99229
Rear P/N: RS99185

Allow yourself lots of time and possibly a second vehicle to run for parts. Next time I could do it in two hours, but due to rusty bolts it took about 6 spead over two days.

1) Drop the spare tire, and hoist the cable back up.
2) Spray EVERYthing with PB Blaster.
3) Use a 13mm wrench to undo the top shock bolts above the mounting bracket. For me, the passenger side went fine, the driver's side was trickier. Access to the upper bolts is difficult due to the fuel system.
4) Use an Air Impact wrench to remove the bottom bolt. The impact wrench spun the bolt off the passenger side fine. The bolt on the driver's side was so frozen, I ended up cutting it off and replacing it. Rancho supplies new bolts for the top of the shocks, but the bottom large bolt must be re-used or replaced.
5) The new Ranchos just bolt in, the boot needs to be placed on them first.

On to the front shocks....

6) Jack up the front of the truck, and place it on jackstands. Remove the wheels.
7) Remove the fenderwell liners by carefully removing the plastic clips - the same procedure for spark plug access.
8) Soak everything in PB blaster if you are going to try and wrench it off. Don't bother - since nothing is reused in the fronts.
9) The bottom shock nuts are 13mm and easily come off with the impact wrench.
10) After a quick try, I decided to break out the sawzall for the top shock bolts on both the drivers and passengers side. Be carefull on the driver's side since there are ABS and fuel lines... don't let that blade slip!
11) The old shocks will extend to full length, so wrestling with them is a little difficult. But they are compressible.
12) The new Ranchos bolt in, after putting the boots on. I found i had to jack up the A-arm to aid in installation. See note below.

Notes:
1) It appears as though the new Ranchos in the rear "top out" before the suspension does. This would be a concern in a lowered truck, since the shocks will limit the ability for the axle to get "Stuffed" into the wheel well. I'm not too worried, I will be getting Warrior shackles ASAP. They extend quite nicely, and have plenty of travel for the suspension to drop.
2)When I removed the stock shocks from the front, the A-arms fell about a 1/2". When I installed the Ranchos, they too pulled the A-arm up a 1/2". While the shocks do limit travel, I'd rather wear be put on them than the CV joints.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422shock_comparison.jpg
Shock Comparison: Stock vs Rancho 9000x

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422front_shock.jpg
Front Passenger Side Installation
After a day of driving with the new shocks, all I can say is: WOW. They make an AMAZING difference in ride quality and handling. I have all four shocks set on #5, which according to Rancho's website makes them equivelent to Rancho 5000s. I will experiment with different settings. It is very easy to reach the rear controls, but the fronts are a little harder.

Shock Update
-March 13, 2003:
For normal driving on road, with me and aone other person, I Have changed the fronts to setting 3, and the rears to setting 5. The softer front feels pretty nice, but it really depends on the roads. I'm seriously thinking about the in-cab controller.

-May 15, 2003:
The shocks are showing some surface rust. Not good, considering there will be many more New England winters and Cape Cod salt air summers for these shocks. Performance is still excellent.

It's common discussion, so I thought I'd post my "philosophies" on vehicle maintence.

Fluid/Filter Change Schedule
Oil Change Frequency: I change my engine oil three times a year, in early September, in early January, and in early May. It works out to be about ever 3,300 miles as I drive about 10,000 per year. I use Motorcraft FL820S oil filters, and 5w-30 Dino oil. I'd rather change it often, then run synthetic.
Transmission Fluid: I change this once a year, every January/10,000 miles. I will be installing a B&M drainplug in the pan, and changing the remote tranmission filter at least twice a year, without changing all of the fluid. I use Castrol Mercon-V semi-synthetic.
Transfercase Fluid: Once a year/10,000 mi. I use standard ATF.
Powersteering Fluid: Once a year/10,000 mi. I Use a mix of standard ATF and powersteering fluid.
Front Differential: Once a year/10,000 mi 85w-90 gear oil
Rear Differential: Once a year/10,000 mi 85w-140 Synthetic, with Ford OEM friction modifier.
Engine Coolant: Schedule not decided yet... ;)
brake Fluid: DOT 3, changed with every brake job.

It may seem like an agressive fluid change schedule, BUT - fluid changes are easy, fluid recyling is easy and conveinent in Newton, and fluids are cheaper then components. The real reason: It gives me an excuse to wrench the truck!!! :D

New spark plugs make all the difference! Quicker stars, noticible power. Smoother operation too. Shame on me for waiting to replace them.

I tried several times to find replacement plugs for the V8, but surprisingly, both Autozone and Pepboys did not have the correct plugs!!!! I wasn't about to spend 8 bucks at the dealer. Both the Bosch and Motorcraft platinum, and AC Delco copper plugs were very similar - but the thread length was different. My V8 has the Gt40p heads.

Getting desperate, I settled with some copper Autolite plugs for a buck a peice and figure that I'll just replace them often.

Old plug P/N: Motorcraft #WSF32E
New Plug P/N: Autolite #764

While I would have liked Platinum plugs, we'll see how these last. But I feel the same about spark plugs as oil: By decent parts cheap, but change them often.

EDIT: December 2003
I have since found out that the plugs were indeed correct. The thread length on the original Motorcrafts and Autolites matches the 1/2 length thread in the heads. However, the full length threads fit fine.

I have had an intermittant miss, and in attempt to remove it, replaced the year old Autolites with Bosch single Platinums. The Autolites were in perfect condition on all 8 cylinders.... I replaced wires as well.

The back of the truck needs more light! With the tinted windows, the stock reverse lights often aren't enough. Also, there have been many times when I have worked behind the truck and needed light, or tried to hitch a trailer up at night. The solution: $20 bucks for lights at Walmart.

I purchased a kit of (2) Blazer 55w Driving lights. They have clear lenses and H3 bulbs. P/N #C1093K.

They come with relativley large 3/8" mounting bolts. I drilled holes into the bottom of the bumper approximatley 7" inboard of the hitch mounting brackets. This puts the lights far enough outboard from the hitch so they won't interfere with saftey chains, and will provide decent coverage. There is enough outboard room on the hich for future tow hooks.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422rear_lights.jpg

The lights are wired to a relay and 3-position switch so that I can have Automatic with reverse, On, or off. They only come on when the parking lights are on.

EDIT: December 2003
I have managed to bust the lense of a light on two different occations. I may re-locate them into the bumper in place of the reflectors. Other then that, they have been invaluable!

I'm a firm believer in knowing what my engine is doing. I think you can never have too many gauges either. (Turning my Mountaineer's dash into an airplane's dash would be A-OK) But the gauges must work for them to be usefull. The stock oil pressure gauge in stock form is nothing more and an idiot light - it points sky high as long as there is about 5psi oil pressure. It reads low if there is anything less. However, there is a cheap, but time consuming fix.

Many members have posted how to convert the stock guage into a real oil pressure gauge, which shows fluctuating pressure. (Normal - and vital to undertanding the health of the engine) All of these posts have been for the OHV V6. I found that the V8 is slightly different - and a more time consuming install compared to what other members have reported.

Parts:
1) Neihoff F133 Sender, From a 1987 F150 5.0. $5.99 Autozone
2) 1/4" Brass coupler $0.39 Home Depot
3) 2" 1/4" Brass pipe, $1.00 Home Depot
4) Teflon Tape
5) RTV sealant
6) short length of wire, 2 butt splices and heatshirnk tubing
7) 1qt ATF (for powersteering system)
8) PB blaster for stuck/rusty bolts

Special Tools needed:
1) 1 1/6" DEEP DRIVE socket
2) 10" extension
3) U-joint for socket

Once all of the tools and parts are gathered, give yourself a full day to get this job done. It may help to have an extra vehicle nearby to run for parts.

This is the method I chose to install the sender. There may be a better method, that involves less cuts and scrapes. Be carefull when working on your truck, but have fun and be creative

Part One: In the Engine Bay
1) Remove wheel well liner
2) Remove the reservoir-P/S cooler power steering hose from the small cooler. Drain the P/S reservoir.
3) Remove the battery
4) Unbolt the battery tray, (3 13mm Bolts) and disconnect any hoses/wires from the battery tray.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422oilpress_batt_tray_removed.jpg
5) Remove the 10mm nut holding the powersteering hoses to the side of the A/C compressor. Route high pressure P/S hose out of the way. Disconnect low pressure hose from reservoir, and pull out of truck.
6) Disconnect green electrical wire from current oil pressure switch
7) Use 1 1/6" deep drive socket, u-joint and extension to remove the oil pressure switch
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422oilpress_sender_comparison.jpg
8) grab lunch - you're halfway there.
9) Assemble new oil pressure sending assembly. Use one layer of teflon tape on all threaded joints, as well as a THIN layer of RTV sealant. You don't want it to leak, but the electrical ground travels through the brass pipe. Make sure everything is tight.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422oilpress_sender_assembly.jpg
10) Insert assembly into block hole. It may help to have a partner guide you by looking into the wheel well, while you stick you hand down the hood.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422oilpress_block_hole.jpg
11) Use a 9/16" wrench on the base of the sender to tighten up the works. This process really requires patients and contortions. You will get scraped hands from the fanblade, but hey, no pain, no gain.
12) The old electrical wire is too short. Remove it from the block by undoing the two clips behind the upper serpentine idler pully. They just pull right off.
13) Crimp/Heatshirnk about 24" of 18 ga wire into the current harness. you want to keep the stock plug at the end. Rather than running down the front of the block, i chose to run down the side of the A/C compressor with the new wire.
14) Reassemble everything
15) Refill Powersteering system
16) Start the X up, check for leaks in both the oil and P/S stystems.

Part Two: Behind the Dash

The dash was removed as part of a mult-day project of replacing the stereo system and wiring in some Aux lights. Dash removal instructions by bigtigexplorer were followed. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37017
Once the dash was out, I replace all of the 194 lightbulbs used for illumination.

Setbacks... Setbacks... what was supposed to be a ten minute solder job... wasn't.

On early model Explorers and Mustangs, to make the gauge fully functional, a 20 ohm resistor needs to be bridged on the back of the dash. However, my dash did not have this resistor. In mid 96, Ford stopped putting in real gauge armatures in Mustangs since they weren't putting in senders. It appears they did the same in my Mountaineer. So I'm stuck.

There are several options.
1) Do some hardcore electrical engineering to get my gauge working.
2) Tap into the sender, and run an external gauge, and leave the dash alone.
3) Go junkyard diving and get a 95-96 gauge cluster.

Many thanks to Maniak for helping me troubleshoot this problem. The diagnostics are taking place in the following thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=601393

Notes:
I know some people have asked about the resistance values of the Neihoff Sending unit. I hooked it up to my air compressor before installing it on the truck.

0 psi = infinite ohms
20psi = 30.7 ohms
30psi = 28.5 ohms
40psi = 24.4 ohms
50psi = 21.3 ohms
60psi = 18.9 ohms
70psi = 17.1 ohms

The original ford unit is:
0 psi = infinite ohms
6 psi = zero ohms

This is a writeup of the mod on a mustang:
http://www.fuller.des-moines.ia.us/projects/cobra/oilgauge/

EDIT: December 2003
I have replaced the 6psi switch, and installed an Autometer Oil Pressure Gauge. For the writeup, go to page two ;)

good to see a masshole joining the ranks of the elite explorers dude! weve got to go wheeling sometime soon!

Brushgaurd

I really like the looks of brushguards on SUVs, an even though many on the road today are all show and no go, and on the front ends of grocery getters, I decided to get a guard for myself.

When researching, I was dismayed at the extreme cost of such guards by Manik, WAAG and Smittybuilt. Manik has an online outlet where a nice 1 piece, frame mounted guard could be had for close to $300 - and it needed to be repainted. I called local junkyards. No luck. But - while thumbing through the JC Whitney catalogue I found what looked like a perfect solution. For only $125, a decent looking brushguard. Yes it was bumper-mount, yes it was knockdown, but it was in my budget.

When it arrived at the house - I was unsure. That was a small box! But put together it fit the front of the Mountaineer quite well. The wrinkle finnish looks durable, time will tell. The only defect was the passenger side light mount was welded on slightly crooked.

Once the center section was assembled, I marked the top holes on the bumper, drilled, and then bolted the gaurd on. Don't drill the bottom holes untill the top bolts are torqued down, the plastic bumper cover compresses about a 1/2." After the top 2 bolts were secure, I drilled and bolted the bottom two bolts.

The side wings were bolted to the center section. Install time took less than an hour, including assembly of the center section and aligning it.

Hella 500 Driving Lights

Simply bolted to the light mount tabs on the brushgaurd - it couldn't have been easier.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422front_brushgaurd.jpg
Brushgaurd and Lights, Front View

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422side_brushguard.jpg
Brushgaurd, Side View

Welcome to the elites. :cool: :chug:

Thanks Bashman.

I spend so much time on here, I felt I owed it to Rick for all the bandwidth I use! I also needed a place to post photos.

I really like this site - the people here are always willing to help out and give me assistance on problems, projects, as well as ideas for new ones!

Yes. Spring break is here, and the Stereo install has begun.

The truck came with the Audiophile JBL system, which sounded great, but I needed to upgrade. Unfortunatley, the "dstributed architecture" made this install more challenging, as I chose to rewire the entire vehicle.

This is my fourth major custom car audio install.

Pioneer DEH-P7400MP
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/505/13422head_unit_switches.jpg
Head Unit Installed along with switches for onboard lights

Pioneer 12 Disc Changer
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/505/13422changer1.jpg

Subwoofers and Amp
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/505/13422woofers.jpg

Rewiring the door speakers
Since the JBL system pretty much necessitates rewiring the entire vehicle, new 16ga speaker cable needs to be run to the doors, through the rubber booties. What makes it challenging is the S curve of the booties, as well as their corrogated constrcution. The best wire fish is a heavy duty wire tie, starting in the truck, and fishing into the door. It makes a word of difference to pop the rubber out of the vehicle and/or door and try to strighten the bends out.

The Drivers door presents a challenge. Instead of the rubber going from a hole in the body to the door, there is a bulkhead connector. This is probubly due to the LARGE number of wires in the junction. It allows quick seperation of the door from the body.
1) Disconnect the lower connector by loosening the 10mm bolt.
2) Notice the two small holes on the door under the bulkhead connector - thread the speaker wire through here.
3) Run the wire through the rubber bootie, using the cable tie fish method
4) Re-attach the bulkhead connector, trim off the excess speaker wire.

Antenna Wire
The truck comes with the power antenna. Since the reciver is in the rear quater panel, the antenna wire runs throug the passenger side wire chase to the unit. Fortunatley, in the passenger foot well, there is a junction for the antenna lead. I used the lead as a wire fish to run the cables for my new 12disc changer.

The connector on the antenna is NOT a standard radio connector, an adapter ($10) is needed, as well as a 4ft Antenna extension lead.

The Power Antenna needs a relay control to go up/down. Simply wiring it into ground and the remote turn on lead will force the antenna up and burn out the motor. I've always wanted manual control of the antenna, so it can be down while listening to CDs. The control was accomplished by using a momentery on-off-on switch and relays. write up and diagram to follow

This Post will evolve as I have time to write it up

To power all my accessories, including the Subwoofer Amp, Aux reverse lights, 120v inverter, and 12v outlet, I ran a 4ga power cable in the driver's side wire chase to the rear quater panel.

Underhood Wiring

I wanted to install a wiring system that will carry future electrical loads as well. 4ga cable was run from the battery to a 70 Amp Marine Circuit Breaker (Blue Sea Systems). From the breaker, 4ga Cable was fed through the firewall and run to the rear of the truck. 8 Ga cable was run to a 6 gang fuse box. So far, the fuse box handles power for:
* Front Hella 500 Driving Lights
* Audio System
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/505/13422underhood_wiring.jpg
70a circuit breaker and fuse distribution block

Rear Wiring
The 4ga cable terminates at a buss-bar in the rear jack compartment. This buss bar provides power to:
* Subwoofer Amplifier
* Aux Reverse Lights (and relay)
* Rear 12v Outlet
* 120v Inverter not yet installed

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/505/13422rear_wiring.jpg
Rear electrical wiring, Relay for Aux Reverse Lights

wheeling in massahcusettes? hmmm..... i guess there is an awesome off road park in Florida mass (out by new york) but i havent been there yet. there is a good place for stock vehicles in Groton, but i usually go to Milford NH, where there is an awesome place about 20 minutes from nashua.

Im pulling my hair out here!!!

let me say this.... Off-Road Wheeling in Mass and NH is Rare.... that is if you are NOT a member of a Off-Road club, Espically one that is not in the The Northeast Association of 4WD Clubs (http://www.nea4wd.org/nea4wd/index.cfm) .......

All the Clubs in the Association are working on finding and gaining access to LEGAL Places to wheel.

If you go to some of the mentioned places, you could be caught by Enviroment Police, and if they are having a BAD day, They have the Rights to Fine you, maybe even take your Truck......

And there are some places where we have gaied access to... after a long process of getting hand written permission from all of the Abutting Land owners....... where as we let them know when we will be on the trails near them... and they also have the phone numbers of these Enviromental police officers, and can and will call them when they see tresspassor's.

All I can say is, As you have Joined to be an Elite Member here, Join a 4x4 Club and make a difference by helping to gain places to legally 4x4, and also help keep the trail clean with Organized Trail Clean up's!

PLEASE do NOT Give us (the ones who are working to make more places available) a BAD name!

I appreciate all of the suggestions on wheeling in MA, but I would like to have that discussion in another thread, say in the "Trail Runs" forum. I intend on keeping this thread as a log of the Mods to my truck, and welcome any posts on that topic. Otherwise, lets keep the discussion where the discussion belongs.

CBoug, your point is well taken, and I plan on looking up the 4wheel drive clubs as you suggest. I have zero intent on doing any illegal wheeling - it just makes it worse for everyone!

Thanks guys,
Aaron

FYI, I will make your Request a reality...

Not about the off-roading, but congrats on becoming Elite! This site is very cool, and I definitely get a lot more than $10 worth of knowledge / entertainment from it.
GT-40 heads and an e303 cam......that is a serious dream.
Karl Burns

I change mine every other year, about 20,000 mi.

Change Instructions:

It is located inside the driver's side frame rail next to the transmission, inline with the fuel hose.

To undo it, you need some plastic collars to slip over the filter barbs and undo the clips inside the hose connectors. These can be purchased at any autoparts store, usually for under $10, in a blister pack "A/C and fuel line Disconnect tools"

Once you have the disconnects, the filter, some red rags, a flashlight, a fire extinguisher, some water and a drain pan, look under the glovebox for the fuel pump emergency reset switch. Unplug the harness, and try to start the X. This will kill most of the pressure in the line.

Jack up the X if its low, and place the drainpan under the filter. Use the clips to detach the fuel lines, and unsnap the filter from the mounting bracket.

GAS WILL LEAK OUT. Be careful, an 87octane shower is not fun. Use the flashlight under the vechile.

Put the new filter in, making sure the lines are TIGHT. they will "click" in place. Douse the entire area with water, hitting every spot fuel dripped on.

Reconnect the fuel pump disconnect harness, let the water evaporate, and you're good to go.

The procedure takes 15min.

I really like those rims with the tear drop painted black. I wish mine were :(

Thanks Andrew, they came stock that way. I think it was a 1997 Mountaineer thing, the 97 Mounty's have a different grill than the 98+ ones, as well as reflectors in the rear bumper.

The suspension is a part of the vehicle I've wanted to make top notch, especially with the impending lift. The Mountaineer handles turns well in stock form, but after doing hours of research on Explorer Express swaybars, I knew they would be a good mod. When John V announced a group buy, I was sold.

I ordered the front and rear kit, as well as a complete Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing and end link kit for the front bar. Rear bushings are included.

rear
1) Jack up the truck. Remove the spare tire.
2) Remove the lower shock bolt on both shocks. It's much easier to get the impact gun in there with the shocks dangling.
3) Impact away. There is a bolt on each end link, and two bolts on each side of the axle tube.
4) The bar is heavy, don't let it clobber you.
5) With the swaybar removed, it's a great time to change your rear axle fluid!
6) Put the energy suspension lube on the inside of the new rear bushings, and insert them over the swaybar.
7) Bolt the bar to the end links first. Unfortunatley, EE has us reusing the stock ones, which are tiny in comparison to the bar.
8) Bolt up the bushing brackets. Make sure the bar is centered, and install the split collets.
9) Reattach the shocks, and lower.

front
1) Work can be done with truck on the ground
2) Unbolt the end links from the A-Arms, and the swaybar from the front crossmember
3) The bar is heavy, but not as heavy as the new one!
4) Just like the rear, lube up the new Energy bushings before slipping them on. They have a tiny slit in them.
5) I installed the end links without the lower rubber bushing to center the bar first, then bolted it up loosely to the crossmember.
6) I had my father press down on the tops of the endlinks with some scrap wood to compress the rubber bushings enough to get the "under the A-Arm" bushings, washer, and locknut on. Tighten the end links.
7) Center the bar, and torque down the mounting bolts.
8) Get some food, take it for a drive and....

Wow - What a difference! The truck feels much more stable in turns, I can now take corners much faster, and merge more confidently. Less brake pedal, more accellerator!

Overall a worthwhile mod.

With a sunny day, decent temps and a day off from school, it was time to wax the beast. I started off by researching on here what kinds of wax people were using. Wow. $50 for Zaino? The trucks look amazing, and I'm sure the finnish holds up... maybe someday.

For now, I settled on a three step process, after I washed with dawn to remove old wax and winter dirt.

1) Clay Magic clay Bar
2) 3M Perfect-It swirl mark remover/polish
3) 3M Perfect-It Show Car wax.


The truck is very shiny now, the polish and wax really brought out the shine and depth of the finnish. I want to apply a second coat of wax for protection soon. I used a combination of a 6" random orbit buffer and elbow grease.

Wax Update
-May 20, 2003: I put on a second coat of the wax a week after the initial application. A month later, the truck is still shiny and water beads up quite nicely. I've washed it several times with "Turtle Wax Car Wash Concentrate."

In my opinion, all vehicles, even the budget Honda should have tow hooks, even if it's just for tieing stuff on the roof down.

Following so many other Explorers on the board, I purchased some Reese Tow Hooks at Pep Boys, and some extended bolts and lots of washers.

I decided I wanted the hooks to be about 1 1/4" below the frame. This would place them right below the bumper and through the lower trim valence.

1) Remove the front lower valence and bumper. Drilling two 1/2" holes into the thick frame metal is much better than drilling 6. There are 4 bolts holding the bumper to the frame.
2) Use the large hole in the frame as a guide for the rear hole, and mark for the front.
3) Drill a 1/2" hole for the front bolt, I like to drill in steps to save the bits.
4) Stack up those washers and bolt the hooks right in. It helps to tape the nut to the inside of the wrench so it can't slip and wander up the frame.
5) Reattach the bumper and valence.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422tow_hooks_frame.jpg
Holes in frame used to attach tow hooks

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422tow_hooks_installed.jpg
Tow Hooks installed, bumper and brushguard yet to be re-attached

With a shot e-brake, it was time to do the rear brakes. The hardest part of the job is getting the rotors off, but can be done in a day if you've never done brakes before, way quicker if you have.

Before you start, purchase:
-New e-brake shoes. Mine were in very rough shape. One side was worn to the metal. You can buy re-mans (ok for this application) for as little as $15.99 at pepboys for Raybestos.
-New Rotors, i chose Raybestos from pepboys, $55
- New pads, I used Performance Friction from autozone, $40, lifetime warranty.
-Caliper hardware $7, (rubber slide boots, slides)
-Caliper grease
-brake fluid
-brake cleaner

1) Release e-brake, chock front wheels, jack up the rear of the vehicle, and place it on jackstands. Take off both rear tires.
2) Unbolt the calipers (2 bolts), and place them on the leaf springs. Duct tape them, so they won't fall and strain the hose.
**I did not want to reuse the rotors, so be advised, you may damage them removing with this method**
3) Get a LARGE crowbar and brace against the caliper bracket and push the rotor outwards. Slowly rotate the caliper around and push hard. You can leave the wheel on the other side and rotate that way. The rotor should come off, it may need to be hit with a hammer. Don't worry, you won't break anything, just wear hearing protection!!
4) With the rotor off, inspect the e-brake. On the driver's side, there were tiny bits of friction material stuck to the inside of the drum, but the shoes were bare. On the passenger side, the friction material was all intact, but the actuating lever was frozen.
5) Take the e-brake apart, and make sure everything works. Like i said, my passenger side actuating lever was rusted together, hence no e-brake. My tensioner/adjusters were also frozen. Lots of PB blaster freed everything up. Clean everything with the brake cleaner.
6) Adjust the e-brake shoes outward untill you can just barely get the rotor on.
7) Clean the rotor before Putting it on.
8) Remove and Replace the pads in the calipers. Never put grease on the fronts of the pads, but dab a little on the mounting surface.
9) Replace the caliper slide rubber boots.
10) Replace and grease the caliper slide pins.
11) Replace the calipers, and bleed the brakes.
12) Auto-adjust the ebrake by putting the truck in reverse with the e-brake applied. It should tighten right up.

The job took me about 4 hours, next time I could do it much faster. Brake performance is much better, even though the old pads still had a little life left in them. It's great to have an e-brake again.

After such a positive experiance on doing the rear brakes, I wanted to check the fronts. Even though the truck seemed to be braking properly.

I found that the driver's side was wearing evenly, there was still plently of friction material on the pads. The passenger side, however, needed immediate attention. One of the boots on the caliper slides had torn, and dirt/grit had locked up the caliper slide. The inside pad was almost down to the metal, the outside pad was wearing unevenly.

I purchased more Performance Friction pads from autozone, but had my rotors turned at Pep Boys for $8.00/side. The rotors were not Ford OEMs, but were in decent condition.

After removing the caliper mounting bracket, it took lots of brake cleaner, PB Blaster, and big wrenches to finally disloge the caliper slide. Once it was out, I was able to througoughly clean it, and re-assemble with new boots and lots of Sil-Glyde brake grease.

The performance of the truck's braking is now superb.

I purchased the truck in the winter knowing the A/C wasn't working. Even on warm days, the compressor would cycle on for a few seconds and then shut off for ten. Pressures were low.
http://www.ackits.com/blackdeath/airprobdimage/system.gif
Diagram of A/C system, courtesy of www.ackits.com

Daignostics
On 1996-1998 V8 Explorers and Mountaineers, Ford wrapped the accumulator with a foam blanket. My guess is they figured since the accumulator is in the low side (hoses are cold) and it is right over the passenger exhaust manifold, they wanted to insulate it. However, the accumulator sweats, the foam trapped in the moisture and the steel rusted.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422accumulator_comparison.jpg
Comparison of New and Old Accumulators

After peeling away the foam, I found a mess of rust, PAG oil, and flourescent dye. (Ford adds dye in the factory) A new Motorcraft Accumulator was $65.

Repair
The system was discharged, and the accumulator removed. One of the fittings is a simple hex nut, the other is a spring disconnect. The spring disconnect tool is also used on the fuel system, and can be purchased at Autozone for less than $10.

While the system was open, I wanted to inspect and change the orifice tube. Located in the inlet to the evaporator (the one that get's cold, near the dash). It is a filter/metering valve.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422o_tube.jpg
Old Orifice Tube, 109,500mi

Often times the orifice tube is an excellent indicator of system health. If a compressor is going, little metal fragments will start to clog up the screen. If the compressor is gone, "black death" will load up the orifice tube with gunk. http://www.ackits.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=Black%20Death

My orifice tube was fine, and did not need replacement. However, since the system was open, the tube was out, and a new Motorcraft OEM tube was $4.00, a new one was installed. A special puller is needed to remove/insert the o-tube, I "rented" one from Autozone for free.

When assembling the system, the o-ring seals were dipped in the air conditioning oil, PAG 46. 2.25 oz of PAG were also added to the accumulator before it was reassembled to replace lost oil. The Cycling switch was re-attached to the accumulator.

Evacuation
After the system was buttoned up, a vacuum was pulled. This is where the difficulty was. A/C systems MUST be vaccumed to remove air. The vacuuming accomplishes two things: 1) It removes air from the system. When expanding, air does not get cold like 134a, yet has volume, reducing cooling capacity. 2) A vacuum will lower the boiling point of water(moisture). Moisture in the A/C system can form acid.

The ideal vacuum pump is a dedicated electric refrigeration pump, capable of pulling down to 50 microns, or 29.9 in Hg. No one in the Boston area rented them, they cost $200. I had used a ventrui effect air-driven vacuum pump on two previous R12-R134a conversions, which cost me $30.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422air_vac.jpg
Robinair Air-Vac

The the AirVac however did not pull past 26inHg. My medium sized compressor (5hp, 5.1scfm@90psi, 22gal) could not keep up with the 90psi the AirVac's needs. I held the 26in HG vacuum for about 1 hour, with the Air_Vac running. I cycled it on/off not to strain my compressor. I wasn't too worried about moisture since the system was open for less then 30min, on a very dry day. The excess air, would mean higher vent temps. Oh Well. I have since heard that the pull to 26inHG is almost instant, but the AirVac can pull to 29.7in HG if given enough time.
EDIT:Many people who use these make a manifold to run two compressors, to maintain constant high pressure and not damage the compressors. Also, I've heard that it is possible to make a vacuum pump from an old compressor (Refigerator, dehumidifier, window A/C). I may look into this, there a window unit from the 70s in our basement)

Charging
With the engine off, the first 12oz can of 134a was discharged into the system's high and low side upside down as a liquid. The can emptied 100%. A second can was attached, right side up. The high side valve was closed, and the engine started. The A/C control was on "Max A/C," the temp all the way cold, and the fan on max. All windows/sunroof were open.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422manifold.jpg
Gauge Manifold

Charging was done using the temperature probe of my Mac Tools 710 Digital Multimeter. Very accurate, it's remote probe reads in tenths of a degree. I added gas untill the vent temps settled on 40.5 deg F. The Ambient temperature was 76 degrees, High side pressure was 190psi, Low side pressure was 30 psi. Adding gas took a VERY long time, almost 30 minutes. I've heard people say that you can dip the can of 134 into hot water to speed of the process, but others say not too. I chose to take it slow and easy. You can see when the clutch cycles by the increase/decrease in vent temp. Often the difference will be by 3 degrees. As the system nears full capacity, the cycling will stop, and vent temps will remain constant. The sticker on the dash says the system will hold 1 lb 14 oz of R134. This is 30 oz, exactly equal to 2.5 12 oz cans of R134. I estimate I was able to add about 26-27 oz of R134, leaving about 3oz of air in the system.

The clutch does not cycle often now, and the air is nice and chilled! Special thanks go out to Chris, Glacier991, who gave me advice along the way.

MAC Intake

In an effort to gain some MPG, a little performace, and spruce up the engine bay, I chose the MAC intake over the KKM. Installation was relatively easy and fast, with one exception. The chrome intake tube contains one hole for the IAT sensor, but not for the PCV hose leading to the oil fill. I drilled a tight-fitting hole, and used blue silicone to glue the original "L" fitting into the tube.
Pics to follow
In initial drives, the intake seems to have made a small enhancement to performance. There is also a nice growl now coming from the intake.

TPS Adjustment
While the intake was removed from the TB, I used the procedure by James T to adjust my TPS: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=79362

The setting on the vehicle was quite rich at over 1.19 volts. I have it set on 0.96 volts at this time. It will be interesting to see how the intake and TPS adjustment effect MPG numbers.

Ventshade Ventvisors
The look great on the black truck, and will allow the windows to be open on hot days and not allow rain in.
pics to follow

I love my bass. I need my bass. I also need cargo space - that's the main reason I bought the Mountaineer! While the large dual 10" box sounded great with 2 Rockford Fosgates, I was pulling it out weekly, and when it was out the sound system sounded like crap. It was also a theft target.

The original factory subwoofer location was prime wasted space now that the original JBL system was completely removed. I looked at pre-made stealth boxes like the Q-logic, JL, and MTX, but none had enough volume, and all were expensive. Besides, I like to build! Some ideas came from FishMan's thread on his home-made stealth box. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73898&highlight=stealth

I settled on a Kenwood eXcelon 10" dual voice coil subwoofer, for a decent price it has awesome sound. The one drawback to this sub is it is 1) deep 2) needs decent volume. The sub was picked before construction and design began.

I drew up intial plans in Autocad for my sealed box made from 5/8" MDF. Target interior volume was 0.70cu ft, made possible by contouring the box to all availible space. The seams were sealed with liquid nails, and 1 1/4" galvanized drywall screws were used.

The box is mostly filled with lightly packed polyfill, and ployfill batting surrounds the outside of the box to reduce vibration. It is bolted through the floor.

Here are the pics:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/505/13422construction01.jpg
Mid Assembly #1

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/505/13422construction02-back.jpg
Back of Box

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/505/13422construction02-plug.jpg
Radio Shack Terminal Plate

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/505/13422installed.jpg
Finished Install, bolted down

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/505/13422stealth_finnished01.jpg
Trim Panel Installed

It sounds great powered by:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/505/13422amp01.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/505/13422amp_stealth_final.jpg
Alpine V12 Mono amp mounted in rear jack compartment

are u done =) or is there more =)

Originally posted by mhn3773
are u done =) or is there more =)

Will any of us ever be done? I know as long as I own something, I'll be working on it. Stay tuned for more!

looks awesome man! go mass explorers!

I purchased a new hub/spindle/abs sensor module for $165 at PepBoys. It was made by some random company, but does have a Timken bearing inside. I will get the number off it shortly.

I also pulled both front wheels and attempted greasing the current bearing, in effort to save the expensive cost of replacement. I found there was still grease inside, but not much. I was able to remove both left and right ABS sensors and inject grease untill it oozed from the outside seal. It never oozed from the inside.

I have had several PMs about the greasing procedure:
"Once I pulled off the brake caliper, the ABS sensor was removed using a hex head allen key. Be careful though, and use lots of WD40 or PB Blaster since the bolt is small and there is lots of rust. If it snaps, you need a new hub.

The ABS sensor just pulls out, nothing else holds it in. You may have to twist it a bit to loosen it.

Once out, you can use anything to get a tight seal on the hole to force grease in. I ended up using the top of a gear oil bottle, it wedged in nicely and my grease gun wedged into it. "

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-01-03_-_front_abs_sensor.jpg
Front Hub Assembly, ABS Sensor

Here are some shots of the new assembly (yet to be installed)
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-01-03_-_front_hub_side.jpg
2nd Gen Front Hub: Side View

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-01-03_-_front_hub_outside.jpg
2nd Gen Front Hub: Outside(Wheel Mounting Surface)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-01-03_-_front_hub_inside.jpg
2nd Gen Front Hub: Inside (Showing Timken Bearing)

EDIT on 12/21/03: So far the re-greasing has solved my intermittant "whirring" and the replacement hub is going back!!

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-01-03_-_shackle_install_rusty_truck.jpg
Shackle Removed, That's one rusty truck!

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-01-04_shackle_install_comparison.jpg
Warrior Shackle vs Stock Shackle. Which would you rather have?

Even though the truck had 114,500 miles, and was over 5 years old, the bushings were in perfect shape, and did not need replacement.

First major off-road trip (I'm beginning to see that dirt roads don't really count...)

B-S/Planning thread for the run: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=92017
Picture Thread from the run: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=93711

Pretty amazing, never experienced anything like it before. It was a test of driving like no-other, and a test of the truck like no other. I think I am now a better on-road driver because of the trip, and am truly amazed at the Mountaineer's ability to take a beating and keep going. The AWD, and lack of low range, where an obstacle to overcome and aided to the challenge, but the AWD t-case preformed better then expected.

I originally purchased the Mountaineer not as an off-road vehicle, but as something to haul all my stuff, make runs to the lumberyard, tow boat trailers, haul friends (and beer), as well as something to wrench. I chose the V8 based on it?s great heritage and reliability, and the great snow capabilities of the AWD system. Once I joined Serious Explorations, I saw the amazing adventures that could be had off-roading. I was hooked, and hadn?t ever really been out. When I saw Fred (FourXFred) and others planning a run in southern New Hampshire, I had to go.

After a bunch of us met up in the Wall Mart parking lot, we headed to the trail.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=819126
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3263/13422lined_up.jpg

Started out like a dirt road, but quickly we cam to our first obstacle. A ?step? of rock, it required some careful spotting, but the truck, and it?s low running boards were able to get over without a snag.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=820166
Here I go!

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3263/13422step3_-_rydinhigh.jpg
RydinHigh going over the 1st obsticle]


The trail continued, with the first water crossing up ahead. Not too deep, maybe a foot at its max, but deeper then anything I?d driven through before.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3263/134221st_river_crossing.jpg

The scenery on the trail was great, New England fall at its best. The trail became harder, with rocks littering the narrow cut between the trees requiring careful driving to avoid smacking anything on the sharp rocks. The skid plates came in handy a couple times.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3263/13422low_bridge.jpg
Things were going smoothly until a relatively tricky section of large rocks strewn in the trail. Although the rocks weren?t that tall, for stock tires they proved a challenge since they were two high to be straddled, and to close or far to plant the tires on them. After quite some time, and great spotting by Fred and my Dad, I was able to get through without a scratch.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=819146

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3263/13422getting_scourmunch_unstuck.jpg
[i]Scourmunch making his way through after me

Another water crossing, this time more tricky due to some submerged rocks, and I was at a small campsite. I parked for a while as the other trucks made their way across. Unfortunately the campsite was littered with empty beer bottles, a few vehicle pieces and misc trash. I cleaned it up, but was rather annoyed. This is why off-roaders are getting a bad name, and people want trails closed. How hard is it to pack up the empties? I?ll get off my soapbox.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3263/13422scenery.jpg
Please clean up, so we can all drive though and enjoy views like this one

While at the campsite, a Jeep on 36s and a Ranger with a D44 SAS on 37s came by to play in some deep water and mud nearby. That was a sight!

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3263/13422sfa_ranger_and_jeep_on_36s.jpg
Now that's 4wheeling!

The trail continued on, rock strewn and often with a sharp drop-off too one side. Very fun, edge of the seat driving. We came to a second clearing where Fred showed everyone what a maniac he was (j/k) and how great his ranger could perform offroad by climbing a very sharp hill.

We drove through some nice mud holes, and I now know why mudding is so fun! I never got stuck, but skidded once ? what a ride!
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3263/13422fred_down_the_hill.jpg
Fred Going through the mud - I'm next!

We came to one washed out part of the trail where a tree had fallen straight across our path. Fred used the mighty Ranger to snap and crush the downed tree to it could be moved out of the way. Not Bad!

Next along our route we came to a lake, which used to be the trail. Too deep for any of our vehicles, we had to turn around. Our first exit had been blocked. Our second exit consisted of two routes up a steep hill under the power lines. One route was too rock-strewn and narrow for our low vehicles to pass through, the other, might have been passable. First it required moving a rather large rock ? a feat accomplished by strapping some chain around it, and then hitching that to the back of Fred?s (our now official trail guide) truck. He then made it up to the top, and I proceeded behind him. Everything was going smoothly until I came to a rather steep rock to climb. The trail was rather muddy, and after several attempts of making tire smoke, we decided to try and strap me up using Fred?s Ranger. The Mountaineer, with no traction on the slick rock and mud, proved to be too much of a challenge for the Ranger. I had no choice but to back down the rock-strewn, curvy hill. On my way down I hit several rocks rather hard, and almost broadsided my rear quarter on the big rock we moved. There was very little traction in the mud.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3263/13422hill_of_death.jpg
In the above picture, the route I tried is to the right.

EDIT: Here are some Photos John Derocha took of me at the foot of the trail leading to the large rock Fred tried to strap me up:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/18205Brookline_2003-02_WEB-med.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/18205Brookline_03-021_WEB-med.jpg

So exit #2 was now cut off. That meant we had to backtrack our way out. Not a pretty thought considering the time it took to get where we were, and that it was getting dark. On a water crossing I hit a rock underneath, and bent the passenger side running board a bit. Driving up the rock-strewn trail proved to be an even greater challenge, but this only added to the excitement.

We ended up coming on a hunter who knew of yet another exit to the trail, and did not have to go over the obstacles that took everyone so long to get over during the day. It had become completely dark by then.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3263/13422group_photo.jpg
Group Photo

Trail Damage:
-Passenger side running board. Took a pretty hard beating, underside is all deeply gouged and it is slightly bent.
-Auxiliary rear reverse light. Mounted on the hitch, below the bumper. I believe I hit it on a rock, backing down a hill that I couldn't get over.
-Torsion bar adjusters. Replaced less then 5,000 miles ago, the Kevlar gave out and the truck started making an awful banging noise whenever the driver's side front flexed.
-Lower idler pulley. This was most likely on its way out, but the repeated submersing in water and mud caused the bearing inside to fail. The truck made an awful screeching noise until it was fixed.

NOT BAD! considering I ran the trail on 235/75R15s!

Would I do it again? In a heartbeat. I?m modifying the truck to perform better right now, and as soon as funds become available, some BFG A/T kos are going on the rims. I?ll be back to break them in.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-21-03-dirty_engine.jpg
I swear there is more mud in there then on the outside....

After the offroading trip, something in the front accessory drive system was making an aweful howling noise. It turned out to be the lower idler pulley.

Replaced:
Upper Idler Pulley: F7CZ-6C348-AA (Smooth and large)
Lower Idler Pulley: F8CZ-6C348-AA (Ribbed and small)
Serpentine Tensioner: F65Z-6B209-BA
Belt: Kelly Springfeild # 940K

The tension is released from the belt by using a socket over the center bolt of the tensioner to to "push" it out of the way.

The upper pulley was quite loose on its center bearing. Removal was easy, the replacement was a tad different in design. No big deal, same diameter. Loosening of the fan from the clutch was required to sneak the new, redesigned pully in.

The Tensioner is held on by two bolts. The lower pully with one bolt.

The old original belt was not cracked, and had life left in it, but was due for a change. There were grains ofsand empedded into the rubber.

Noise gone, preventative maintence carried out.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-21-03-old_idler_pulleys.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-21-03-old_idler_pulleys2.jpg
1997 V8 Serpentine Idler Pulleys

After reading of the success of installing an auxilliary transmission filter in this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34136&perpage=20&highlight=Filter&pagenumber=1
I decided it would be a worthwhile mod. I also wanted to add a transmission temperature gauage and needed a place to mount the sender.

I decided on a generic filter mount rather than a kit, so I could fabricate everything just the way I wanted. I ordered the TD products #:TRD-1028 Single PH8A filter housing from Summit for 12.75. I picked up a bunch of brass fittings from Home Depot, and 3/8" hose from Autozone.

I struggled to find the ideal mounting location. I wanted to run a full-height filter, have it vertically oriented, be easy to change and be out of the way of rocks off road. I found the ideal spot to be right behind the passenger side bumper.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-21-03-aux_tranny_filter_location.jpg

I fabricated from brass fittings the inlet/outlet for the 3/8" hose and the attachment point for the Autometer temp sender.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-21-03-aux_tranny_filter_housing_and_fittings.jpg

It is plumbed in between the two transmission coolers. The circuit runs from the transmission, into the radiator cooler, out to the filter, to the auxilliary trans cooler, and back to the transmission.

The hose for the filter required relocated the vacuum reserve sphere for the climate system from above the plastic fender lining. Fortunatley, there was plenty of space below the MAC intake, and there were even holes in the sheetmetal!
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-21-03-vaccuum_reserve_relocated.jpg

I was not impressed that ford ran the transmission lines under the already low radiator. I cut them back to above and behind the radiator and ran new rubber hose. The hose will be permanently secured soon, and a skid plate will be installed.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-21-03-aux_tranny_rubber_lines.jpg

The finished install:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-21-03-aux_tranny_instal.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-21-03-aux_tranny_install-final.jpg

The temperature gauge mounted in the center console:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-21-03-gauges_installed.jpg

After the failure to convert the in-dash oil pressure "gauge," I am putting in an autometer electronic oil pressure gauge.

I removed the complete plastic inner fender this time, not just the rubber "access door." I also removed the low-pressure power steering hose for easier (hah!) access to this cramped location.

I used 1/4" brass pipe to extend the T fitting away from the block to clear the senders. I hooked up the stock 6psi switch in addition to the Autometer sender. I wanted to retain the functionallity of the idiot light/gauge on the dash, and not compromise the accuracy of the Autometer system.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-21-03-oil_pressure_senders.jpg

Day two consisted of installing the gauge inside the cab. I also installed a transmission temperature gauge at the same time. I wanted the gauges mounted in the center console, I'm not a fan of the A-Pillar as it reduces visibility and could be a potential hazard for my head in a severe crash.

I cut out the bottom "pocket" from the center console, and epoxied in some black plastic.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-21-03-console_modification.jpg

The gauges were mounted, due to tight clearance issues underneith the console, I had to cut down the Autometer mounting studs and cut the clamp brackets in half. The gauges are secure enough without the clamp, it just adds some rigidity. The +12v, dash lights, and ground come from the radio. All connections are crimped and heat shrunk. Connections in the engine bay for the senders are crimped, soldered, and head shrunk.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-21-03-gauges_installed_wiring.jpg

Final image:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-21-03-gauges_installed.jpg

Earlier this spring the truck developed a nasty clunk/popping noise from the front end. After reading through numberous threads on 2nd gen Torsion Bar suspention clunking, I found this thread,
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25873&highlight=torsion And ordered two adjusters from Ford Parts Network, install was relatively easy using a rented 10" 2-jaw puller from Autozone. The old adjusters were very worn after 110,000 miles. The kevlar around the center contact point was gone, remaining kevlar was brittle. Replacing them made the noise go away - for a while.

In early September, a slight popping noise returned whenever the driver's side suspention flexed over roadway bumps. On my November offroading trip, after hitting a nasty rock during a stream crossing, I developed a nasty clunk from the underbody of the vehicle. It happened whenver the suspention flexed, and seemed to be coming from under my feet. Everything "appeared" sound on the trailside. In the weeks after, the clunk got progressivley worse. It was a metal-on-metal popping/banging whenever the suspention flexed.

When I was finally able to disasemble the front end after finals ended, I pulled the driver's side torsion bar adjuster skid plate (now nice and scratched!) to find the now old 6 month/5,000 mile kevlar completely worn:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/13422worn_kevlar.jpg

I was not happy - at almost $30 per adjuster, these get expensive. The "adjuster" is the steel and the kevlar. The steel doesn't wear, and no doubt contributes to much of the cost.

Removal the 2nd time took less than ten minutes with air tools. Before jacking up the truck, I measured the front fender height to retain proper alignment on replacement.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/1342212-26-03-replacement_kevlar.jpg

The above photo shows the new adjuster and the adjuster that was in the truck.

The clunking is mostly gone, I still have a minor clunk coming from the rear, which I still need to troubleshoot.

At first inspection, I thought the lower control arm bushings were worn, and thus causing the control arm, and torsion bar to move in many directions and wear the kevlar faster, but upon removal, were as good as the brand new MOOG bushings I had ordered. :rolleyes: The balljoints were 100%, the swaybar links were 100% (and new), the shocks are less than a year old, CVs fine.... What could have caused their failure so soon?

Torsion Bar Adjusters Replaced: July 2003: 110,000 mi
Torsion Bar Adjusters Replaced: December 2003: 115,000 mi

It's 11:00pm... do you know the condition of your Kevlar?

wow.. this is my first post and I have to say i'm amazed at the amount of other mass explorer drivers there are.. cool to see so many people into taking their;s offroad too.. most drivers never let there's off a main road...

Do you have a photo of your truck with the 31" all terrain tires on it??

I want to see it with the 31's and TT! Hopefully I'll be able to make it up to the run this weekend...

I've wanted larger tires for sometime, and after wheeling last month, I decided to drain the bank account and mount 4 31x10.5x15 BF Goodrich all terrain TA KO tires on my rims. I was able to get a great deal on the tires, a roadhazard warranty, and a free alignment. The folks at VIP Auto were quite helpfull and were more than happy to mount the larger tires on the mountaineer.

Camber Shim Install
Before I took it in, I upgraded the stock camber cams/shims to adjustible ones. I found Pep Boys caried them for $18.99 a side.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/134221-6-04-Camber_Adjusters.jpg
Comparison of Stock and Aftermarket Camber Shims

The aftermarket shims are adjusted using the upper square hole - it fits a 3/8" ratchet extension as shown below.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/134221-6-04-Camber_Adjustment.jpg

Installation was not difficult at all, the 21mm nuts on the upper control arm mounts easily popped off with a breaker bar, and they do not need to be removed. There is a camber shim on each side of each mount, and the bolt head side is identical to the shape of the aftermarket one from the factory. If that makes any sense. :p I did one adjuster at a time, trying to set it like the factory one for the drive to VIP Auto.

Torsion Twist
Now came the fun part - the torsion twist to lift the front. I started by jacking up the truck a bit to releive tension from the front suspension. I ended up applying about 5 turns to the bolts, maxing out on my driver's side. This yeilded about a 1 1/4" lift from stock, giving the control arms a nice downward slant. The distance between the apex of the fender and the 15" stock rim was about 13.5" The T/T brought the front higher than the rear, I have an add-a-lead in the mail from Summit to correct the problem. In my situation, more height is good!

31" Tires!!!
Probubly the single most expensive mod I've done so far:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/134221-6-04-31_inch_tires01.jpg

It's blurry due to poor light outside, the weather around here has been quite nasty. But I know ya'll wanted pics!

Living with 31s
-I don't notice mutch difference in power with the stock 3.73 gears, compared to the 235/75s on there before. However, RPMs are definitley lower, I find myself cruising around with the overdrive off to keep the engine in its powerband.
-I'm currently running them at 34psi. I ran the 235s at 33psi. I want to do the chalk test when the driveway dries up. The sidewalls are VERY stiff, coupled with the torsion twise it yeilds a harsh ride. I like it, passengers do not. I have set the Rancho 9000x's at "3" all around.
-Turning circle has increased a slight, but minimal amount due to the width of the tires.
-Traction is AMAZING.

Ford should have put 31's on the Explorer/Mountaineer from the factory. It really completes the truck in terms of looks and will hopefully increase its offroad prowess. Oh well - just makes mine that much more different than the ones lined up infront of the middle school.

I've never been happy with the stock fogs, their 30w bulbs didn't provide much illumination. The lenses were crappy, didn't put the light where it should be. They were white - not yellow. (Yellow cuts through fog, snow, dust, rain, etc much better than white) When I removed the lower airdam, I took off the stock fogs as well. They hung down low and looked out of place on their enormous brackets without the valence. No fogs is worse than ford OEM fogs.

I picked up a nice set of Optotronics 55w yellow fogs, rectangular, small, plastic housings and DOT approved street-legal lenses. They were $5.00 for the pair too!

I spliced the Optotronics harness right into the pigtails from the factory fogs using butt connectors and heatshrink tubing:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/134221-7-04-Fog_Light_Harness.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/134221-7-04-Fog_Light_Harness2.jpg

I wrapped the wireing with split tubing to protect it.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/134221-8-04-Fog_Lights.jpg
Final Fog Light install

After removing the lower bumper trim, and radiator air dam, the AC consensor and radiator, were exposed to anything that passed under the bumper. I decided to build a skid plate, similar to the ones in this thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=28953&highlight=Skid+Plate

The plate would look good, protect the condensor and radiator, as well as transmission cooler hoses, the front swaybar, powersteering cooler and hoses, powersteering rack, and maybe reduce the amount of mud and dirt slung up into the engine bay. I originally wanted to use shiny aluminum diamondplate, but the cost was prohibitive. No one would see much of it, and it would no doubt be scratched during use. My truck also has almost no shiny metal or chrome, so it would look out of place.

Finding solid steel plate in eastern MA proved to be much of a challenge, but I was able to land a 3x2x1/8" peice for $25 at a local, small steel yard. Many places I went into were like "$95 minimum order, kid" or "Sorry, we only deal to business."

I also purchased some 1x1x1/8" angle iron from Home Depot, and 5/16" Stainless Steel hardware. The plate will need to be removed when the oil filter is removed.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/134221-7-04-Skid_Plate01.jpg
Cut skidplate and angle iron

The angle iron acts as a bolting flange, and is bolted to the IFS crossmember.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/134221-7-04-Skid_Plate02.jpg
Dryfitting skidplate

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/134221-7-04-Skid_Plate03.jpg
Painted skidplate, showing bed liner wrinkle finish

I applied two coats of primer, and three coats of rustoleum semi-flat to the backside of the plate. Three coats of Plasti-Coat spray on truck bedliner were applied over primer to the outside of the skidplate.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/134221-8-04-Skid_Plate04.jpg
Angle Iron bolted to front crossmember

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/134221-8-04-Skid_Plate05-Side_View.jpg

I couldn't take a good front shot one, but I'll grab one someday.

I wanted to install a transmission pan drain, so changing out the ATF wouldn't be such a messy, cumbersome process. I purchased the B&M 80250 for about 7 bucks at Summit Racing. It's nothing more than a hollow, threaded bolt, a nut, and a small plug for the inside of the bolt. It won't remove all the fluid, and requires a wrench on the outer bolt to keep it from spinning, but seems like it will be solid.

I removed the pan (full of fluid) and found the ideal spot for it, I wanted it in the rear, and there was in ideal spot clear of the valve body and filter near the pan magnet. Installation was as simple as drilling a 1/2" hole into the pan, and then grinding the edges smooth. Take the pan magnet out - I didn't and it took forever to clean the shavings off it. They just wiped out of the pan, though.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/134221-8-04-Trans_Drain01.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/134221-8-04-Trans_Drain02.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/134221-8-04-Trans_Drain03.jpg

To complete the lift, the rear needed to be raised about 1.5" to match the front. A single Explorer Procom 13120 Add-a-leaf, ordered from Summit Racing did the job nicely. After installation, the final lift of my truck including TT, AAL, Shackles, and 31x10.5" tires puts the apex of the fenderwells at about 35 3/4" from the ground. I started with the fenderwells at around 32-33" from the ground with no lift and 235/75R15s. The ride is excellent with EE swaybars, Rancho 9000x shocks on all four corners and the Spring modifications. I currently have the rear Ranchos set on "1" and the fronts on "3."

Add-a-Leaf Install Writeup

Parts Required
1. Explorer Pro-Comp Single Add-a-leaf, P/N 13120
2. Two grade 8 machine bolts, 2.5" long x 3/8", hex head. Nuts to go with them.
3. 18mm Deep drive socket.

Procedure
1. Jack up rear of truck, place jackstands as high as they can go right infront of rear spring hangers.
2. Remove wheels. Spray everything with PB blaster.
3. Disconnect the shock absorbers at the bottom, let them hang.
4. Remove e-brake cable retainer from passenger side u-bolt/shock mount.
5. Use an 18mm deep drive socket in your impact gun :D to remove the u-bolt nuts. Remove the shock mounts from under the springs. The axle will hang from the swaybar, and the springs will sag much lower than the axle. Be careful.
6. With the rear axle hanging by the swaybar, place a jack under the center of the differential, and jack the axle up. Place some jackstands underneith it, and disconnect the swaybar. BE CAREFUL OF THE HYDRAULIC BRAKE LINE. It is very easy to drop the axle too far and stretch the rubber hose.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3298/13422jack_under_diff.jpg

7. Remove the bolt holding the rear of the leaf spring to the bottom of the shackle. Lower the spring to the floor.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3298/13422Mid_install_-_no_rear_suspention.jpg

8. Place a c-clamp on either side of the leaf spring center pin.
9. Grind off the head on the leaf spring center pin and remove. You won't be able to undo this one. Trust me. Once the head is off, punch out the bolt.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3298/13422Grind_off_bolt_head.jpg

10. Slowly undo the c-clamps and release tension on the leaf pack.
11. Insert the AAL above the overload spring, and below the last leaf. Insert the new center pin bolt and use the two c-clamps to re-compress the leaf pack.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3298/13422recompress_pack_with_2clamps.jpg

12. Tighten and center the center pin. 3/8" is the maximum you can fit through the center hole on the AAL, but is slightly narrower than the metric bolt removed from the lead pack.
13. Remove C-clamps, and reattach the leaf pack to the shackle.
14. Using two hydraulic jacks, raise the spring to meet the axle, and lower the axle to meet the spring. Again, be careful of the brakeline. The center pin bolt head should fit in the recess in the leaf perch on the axle.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3298/13422Reassemble_spring_to_axle.jpg

15. Re-install u-bolts and shock mounts. Sequentially tighten the u-bolt nuts so that the length is even on all four legs. Torque these puppies down with the impact gun.
16. Reattach the shock absorber, and the swaybar. Reattach wheels, and lower.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3298/13422disconnect_swaybar.jpg
Swaybar Mounting bolt

My lower shock mounts were VERY rusty, and with them removed I used this as an opportunity to wirebrush and grind them down. I painted them with 2 coats of Rustoleum primer, and 3 coats of black Rustoleam Paint.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3298/13422Shock_Mounts.jpg
Repainted Shock mounts

Been a while since I updated my thread, here's whats been going on:

Upper End Semi-Rebuild

Symptoms Summary:
- The computer will routinely generate codes P0300 - Random Misfire and P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Failure.
-The truck feels sluggish, like its towing a heavy trailer (i looked... its not) or the breaks are dragging (they're not), or its not running on all cylinders.
-The truck smells like its running very rich. When I back up, It smells like latex paint or turpentine. I've been filling up at several different gas stations, all high volume and no difference in smell. The truck has been averaging about 10 miles per gallon in mixed driving, it used to get around 13.
- There is often a surging or bucking. Sometimes it is minor, other times VERY pronounced. This is usually when the CEL is set off.
-The last two times I filled up with fuel from the same high volume Sunoco station, about 15min/3miles later the CEL will be thrown and the truck will run like crap. It feels like its running on half its cylinders, won't idle, shakes, very slow, etc. There was a very strong smell of gas in the cab as well. I'm thinking canister purge system? Both days it was around 75 degrees out, and I was in stop/go traffic.

Fix
After doing a leakdown test and simply looking at the condition of the spark plugs, it was determined that the #2 cylinder was not firing/firing intermittantly. The intake valve was observed as leaking, as well as a breach in the cooling system indicating a blown head gasket. The solution? A complete valve job and new head gaskets along with other related parts.

The valve job was performed by Whitaker Automotive, in Needham MA. The machinsity Rusty did a very impressive job on the heads, and they are highly recommended.

Work Preformed:
-Clean heads
-Disasemble
-Measure springs, measure valve stems, measure valve guides.
-Check for warping/straightness
-Magnaflux for cracks
-Grind valve seats
-Grind valves
-Knurl valve guides
-Replace valve guide seals
-Grind 0.010 off heads due to slight warping
-Paint heads

Parts ordered from www.FordPartsNetwork.com , www.SummitRacing.com , and www.50resto.com also my local Autozone. Expensive expensive. :( I'm doing it with quality Ford, Ford MotorSport, Fel-Pro, and upgraded aftermarket. Don't want to take any chances here.

Parts ordered include:
-FMS Graphite Head gaskets (Ended up not using, read on...)
-Felpro Head Gaskets
-Bonded metal/ruber valve cover gaskets
-Ford Exhaust manifold gaskets
-Ford gaskets for TB, EGR, IAC, Intake elbow, etc.
-Fel-Pro GT40 Lower/Upper Intake and thermostat set
-Fuel injector o-rings
-New head bolts
-New exhaust manifold bolts
-New Valve Cover bolts
-New Motorcraft thermostat
-Acell High Power EDIS coil packs
-Taylor Spira pro ignition wires
-Ignition wire/spark plug heat sheild material
-Bosch O2 sensors (for before the cats)
-Lots o' RTV, oil, antifreeze, brake cleaner, gloves, yada yada.
and so much more... $$$$$$$$$$$

As you can see, I also redid the ignition system completely and the O2 sensors.

Photos and dissasembly
Lower Intake removed:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/500/134225-31-04-Lower_Intake_Removed.jpg

Wrapped in foil for the night:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/500/134225-31-04-Wrapped_in_foil.jpg

Re-tapping alternator mounting bracket:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/500/134225-31-04-retapping_alternator_bracket.jpg

Had a lot of trouble getting this one bolt out, turns out it grabbed some metal in the threads and dragged the shavings all the way though. I was lucky and didn't need to increase the size of the hole, merely cleaned out the threads. Used a die on the bolt to clean it out - all set!

Steering shaft disconnected:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/500/134225-31-04-Disconnected_steering_shaft.jpg

Two-minutes, one bolt. Disconnecting the steering shaft and collapsing it allowed for MUCH easier access to the exhaust manifold bolts and the head bolts. Would also make easier access for routine spark plug changes.

Rockers, pushrods, and driver's side exhaust manifold removed:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/500/134225-31-04-Rockers_and_DS_header_removed.jpg

Decided to remove the manifold since the two collector bolts were not that rusty. With all of the brake lines, it will make for much easier access to the head bolts. Man... this would be the time to upgrade to some headers.

A can of PB blaster, a pack of ziplock bags, a few runs to Sears for tools, 4ft and 2ft sections of galvanized pipe "breaker bars" and a broken fingernail later: Removed both heads!

Ended up having to rig up a support for the driver's side accessory bracket. Supporting the A/C compressor and P/S pump, the aluminum bracket's 3 bolts only attach to the head. I told myself from the begining I wasn't touching my redone A/C system - and it looks like I'll be a-ok. Funny... the passenger side bracket, which only holds the alternator and tensioner/idler, and could have been removed no sweat, mounts to the block.

Exhaust manifold bolts weren't that bad, neither were the head bolts themselves.

Here are some photos:

A/C & P/S support:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/500/134226-1-04-A-C_Support.jpg
1" Box tube and nylon line, there is also wood underneith

Both heads removed, and their head gaskets:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/500/134226-1-04-Both_Heads.jpg

GT-40P Head (Top):
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/500/134226-1-04-GT40P_Head.jpg

Passenger side head, (CYL #1-#4):
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/500/134226-1-04-Pass_Head_Inside.jpg
#2 is oily

Passenger Side Pistons (#1-#4):
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/500/134226-1-04-Pass_Pistons.jpg

Driver Side Pistons (#5-#8):
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/500/134226-1-04-Driver_Pistons.jpg

There were some key steps that I didn't get shots of, or they came out really blurry.

Cleaned Block and Piston tops:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3332/134222004-06-15_Cleaned_Block2.jpg
Driver's Side

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3332/134222004-06-15_Cleaned_Block.jpg
Passenger's Side

I used Permatex' spray on gasket removed and single edge razor blades to clean the block surface. Some overspray got on the piston tops, and lifted the carbon right off!

Painting
In the downtime while the heads were being machined, I broke out the wire wheel and rattle can.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3332/134222004-06-15_Primed_Valve_Covers.jpg
Primed Valve Covers

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3332/134222004-06-15_Painted_Intake.jpg
Upper Intake..... shiny!

Refurb Heads
I took the heads to Whitaker Automotive, in Needham, MA. Recommended to me by a local Ford dealer, I was impressed by the machinist when I talked to him and saw his work/shop. This was a very blind item for me, as I had no basis or other recomendation for a shop.

$385 later:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3332/134222004-06-15_Fresh_Heads.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3332/134222004-06-15_Head_Milled.jpg

Head Installation
These cast iron heads were quite heavy, and hard to maneuver. I rigged up some handles on them to allow lowering into place. I put in an exhaust manifold bolt, attached some line, and looped through a pushrod hole. The handles not only allowed for easy grasping of the head, setting the angle for lowering onto the dowel pins was quite simple. (I didn't think of this method untill after my Dad and I tried to lower a head in place, but only busted the head gasket in the process. Luckily Autozone has good felpro gaskets for $13.99ea. Order Extras.)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3332/134222004-06-15_Head_Handles2.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3332/134222004-06-15_Head_Handles1.jpg

I also rigged up a 1"x1" steel tube across the rear of the engine compartment, allowing true lowering of the head into position. Made things infinitley easier.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3332/134222004-06-15_Head_Lowered2.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3332/134222004-06-15_Head_Lowered1.jpg

Lots of n/c brake cleaner was used to make sure everything was squeeky clean. Don't tell WallMart execs, but I think I'm still high from it. :smoke:

Reassembly
Ok.. so I don't have photos of head bolt torquing, valve train re-assembly, or lower intake gaskets. :fire:

But, I did grab this photo of the new Motorcraft t-stat ready for installation.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3332/134222004-06-15_tstat.jpg

Lower intake, fuel injectors, valve covers, alternator, belt, upper radiator hose:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3332/134222004-06-15_Fuel_Injectors.jpg
Note: Tin foil should yeild +45hp

Upper Intake, EGR Eblow, Throttle Body, Ingition Coil Bracket:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3332/134222004-06-15_Upper_Intake.jpg

The Original thread, over 5 pages long can be found here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108712&page=1&pp=20

Finally, 4wheeling with 31s, a lift, removed running boards, and an engine that's not missfiring. Oh, and it was a sunny 75 degrees too :)

OK Kids.... Here are the photos my little HP camera took that weren't too blurry. Unfortunatley, I didn't get any cool action shots (the camaera dispises motion) and we didn't stop for many cool parts in the trail - just drove over them!

Help me choose a new avatar! (Yea... I shot alot of my own truck.... :rolleyes: )

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001333.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001332.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001339.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001338.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001335.jpg

That back tire is in the air!
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001331.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001322.jpg

Isaac pulling parts off the old Bronco:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001326.jpg

Its a real shame this thing is up there, a real mess that needs to be cleaned up. Glass everywhere, its belly up with the engine torched out of it, parts strewn about. Its pretty well stripped. This is the stuff that gets trails closed!!! Not to mention the trash bag I filled just collecting Keystone Lights and Pepsis whenever we stopped. :nono:

Dirty windshield shots:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001321.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001317.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001340.jpg

The Trail:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM0013231.jpg

Hangin out:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001320.jpg

Nick's Hydrolocking:
This shot actually came out, probubly the best one of the day. It shows how the wall of water hit the hood, and soaked the engine.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM0013271.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001328.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM0013291.jpg

Post Hydrolocking, runs like new!
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001337.jpg

My truck and Isaac's while we drained Nick's engine:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001330.jpg

Fred pre-ran this trail, deemed it too difficult for the rest of us:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001336.jpg

Fred's new ride:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001334.jpg

This engine was disassembled, cleaned and painted 3 weeks ago:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3337/13422IM001347.jpg

Here are some of MontanaGT's photos of the run:
Nick's mishap
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3338/9867IMG_0515.jpg
Nick helping out in the recovery.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3338/9867IMG_0517.jpg

My Ex
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/500/9867IMG_0522.jpg

On the Trail
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3338/9867IMG_0506.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3338/9867IMG_0500.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3338/9867IMG_0499.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3338/9867IMG_0498.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/500/9867IMG_0524.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3338/9867IMG_0521.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3338/9867IMG_05231.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3338/9867IMG_0505.jpg[/QUOTE]

did the CMP sensor code go away? I remember it tripped the engine light on my lincoln; it was just a corroded connector that i replaced. (5-finger junkyard discount :p)

did the CMP sensor code go away? I remember it tripped the engine light on my lincoln; it was just a corroded connector that i replaced. (5-finger junkyard discount :p)

The CMP code P0340 has not come back. I am running the original sensor, however I did clean some rust from the steel rotor in the block.

I have a hunch that the P0340 code was more a "miscalculation" by the EEC-V, rather than an error with the sensor itself or wiring. Each time the P0340 would be thrown, it would be accompanied by the P0300 random misfire code. The EEC uses the CMP to determine which cylinder misfired. My guess is multiple cylinders misfired in successtion, and as a result the EEC was not able to determine which ONE misfired, so it blamed the messenger and threw the P0340. Its the same deal as replacing the O2 sensors when you get any O2 sensor code. :banghead:

i remember researching that damn thing wondering how much it would cost to tear the heads apart....till i reached for the connector and it broke off!! what a relief that was...

Oh, and that was EEC-IV, btw.

AAron,

I am takeing some pics from you to make a NEX music video. So far I need pics from IKE Fred and whoever else is in. I will make a post in our forum

Right-on! Take as many as you need from here, I also have others in both my Gallery and on my hard drive. Let me know what you need, or how I can help.

Right-on! Take as many as you need from here, I also have others in both my Gallery and on my hard drive. Let me know what you need, or how I can help.

I need a good picture of you beside your X, without your gotee. the gotee is totally not you. Does not even look like you

:thumbsup:

Kinda blury

music videos are full of blurry shots. :)

I need a good picture of you beside your X, without your gotee. the gotee is totally not you. Does not even look like you


HAHAHAHA.... I haven't had the dead animal on my face in over a year. I'll try to take one soon, but I think my digital camera is in my sister's friend's explorer.

That two-wheels one was a fun one of me screwing around, and not being that 'trail friendly.' We shall leave it at that.

On another note... I just installed my message center - works awesome!

Yeah, man. She's gotta green EB almost like Tim's. She's a cutie, too. ;)

Wow, those are some great pics :thumbsup:

I haven't done a "how-to" thead with photos in a while, mostly because I've been at work or in school and unable to wrench on the truck. I've wanted to install the Baumann Engineering shift kit for a while, and finally ordered it and put it in. In addition to the shift kit, I ordered their torque converter application valve update for the extra $30. While I was in the valve body, it made sense to do it. http://www.baumannengineering.com/

Based on a few threads on here, I decided to set my 1-2 shift to stage "2" and the rest of the shifts to stage "3." I spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic, and also in the snow and ice. I didn't want to spill my morning coffee or break traction on the often used 1-2 shift. More on shift selection later.

I started by draining the transmission fluid and removing the pan and filter. Last year, I had installed a transmission pan drain plug, came in handy this time around:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3379/1342201Tranny_Pan_inside.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3379/1342202Tranny_Pan_outside.jpg

I took out about 9 quarts of ATF, and refilled about the same. Only 5 came down in the pan, the rest came slowly dribbling out as I dropped the valve body. I disconnected the electronics, and then removed the 25 8mm bolts that hold the valve body to the trans body. Two of them also hold brackets for the shift selector. I removed all but 4 bolts, and then let the valve body hang on those bolts while I held it in position. It's very heavy! If the valve body doesn't drop onto the loose bolts, you most likely missed one. The gasket's don't have enough pressure to hold this thing on. There are no linkages holding on.

Here is a photo of the underside of the 4R70W without the valve body:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3379/1342203-4R70W_without_valve_body.jpg

The valve body removed from the truck and on my workbench:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3379/1342204-Valve_Body_underside.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3379/1342205-Valve_body_topside.jpg

I've found borrowed dining hall trays invaluable for work on the truck! Once the valve body was on my bench, I removed the sperator plate.

Valve Body Disassembled, seperator plate removed:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3379/1342206-Valve_Body_disassembled.jpg

Seperator plate gaskets:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3379/1342207-sep_plate_gaskets.jpg

Included in the kit is an awesome instruction manual, some Baumann parts, and the Sonnax parts I ordered.

Sonnax and Baumann transmission parts:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3379/1342208-Sonnax_Parts.jpg

Baumann supplied drill bits:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3379/1342209-Baumann_Drill_Bits.jpg

Keeping the drillbits in order is very important. We're working with super close tolerances here. Once I selected which shift levels I wanted, I cleaned off the ATF from the sperator plate with brake cleaner, then marked the seperator plate with Sharpie. I didn't want to drill the wrong hole! The drillpress was invaluable here.

Marking the seperator plate with Sharpie:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3379/1342211-sharpie_your_sep_plate.jpg

Drilling the seperator plate:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3379/1342210-drilling_seperator_plate.jpg

In addition to drilling the seperator plate, part of firming up the 1-2 shift lies in the 1-2 accumulator. It's in the transmission body, but accessed from below. It's held it with a pretty beefy snap ring, so use real snap ring pliers and wear saftey gogles. A spring is replaced, and some shims are added. Pay attention to the late model 4R70W instructions here, things have changed since the AOD-E.

Ford original 1-2 Accumulator assembly:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3379/1342213-Accumulator.jpg

Baumann vs. Ford upper accumulator spring comparison:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3379/1342212-Accumulator_spring_comparison.jpg
(The Baumann spring is the silver one)

Compressing the 1-2 accumulator to re-install the snap ring was proving to be a challenge, untill I put my bottle jack on a milk-crate to hold it in place while I reinstalled the ring.

Re-installing the spring loaded 1-2 Accumulator:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3379/1342214-Accumulator_Jack.jpg

After that, there were some valves replaced or shimmed in the valve body, and then the body was re-installed into the truck. The torque converter control valve from Sonnax also detialed drilling another hole in the sperator plate.

I cleaned everything with brake cleaner, then pre-lubed it with ATF before reassembly. It was hard to keep it all clean.

On my first test drive I was impressed, but the shifts weren't as firm as I would have imagined. The transmission seemed crisper, and more solid. Downshifts were improved also. If I had to do it over again, I might have gone stage 4, but time will tell. In the explorer 4R70W, many of the passages are already enlarged from what Baumann says that they should be. Since the seperator plate holes are a mater of relative size, I think our stage "3" is a stang AOD-E stage "2." I could be wrong here.

I think it was a good, worthwile mod. Took about 6 hours to complete, including a lunch break. It ended up costing close to $200, the kit and extra parts were $150, and 10 quarts of Mercon V isn't cheap.

The original write-up thread can be found here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123942

The things you do when you're bored.......

Good work, my friend. Remind me never to eat at your dining hall. :)

The things you do when you're bored.......

Good work, my friend. Remind me never to eat at your dining hall. :)

Those dining hall trays are an awesome shop accessory, great for containing parts, fluid, and tools. Oh... they're also good for sledding too (which is why I borrowed so many from the dining hall in the first place) Milkcrates are another accessory that I've borrowed, and can't get enough of. :)

Notes:
The original thread for this modificaion can be found here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1157284

Introduction
I spent the past weekend installing a new set of Tech Performance and Engineering's Torque Monster Headers (http://www.torquemonsterheaders.com) on my Mountaineer. This post and thread will evolve over the next few days as a photo-documented "how-to" guide on installation of the headers, and a subsequent review of how they fit and how the performance of the Mountaineer has been increased. I will be editing this first post as the installation guide, the second post will the review. After that, let the comments begin!
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/13422TM_Header_Logo.jpg
Welded on TP&E logo, pass side header

Why Headers?
I had the stock manifolds out of the truck last June for my valve-job and head gasket repair (see: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108712 ) and could not believe how restrictive the design was. I had wanted headers at that point, but they were impossible to find. I am also always looking for bolt-on performance mods to increase the V8's power and/or gas mileage. While a supercharger may be the "ultimate" bolt on, bolting one on a 8 year old, 125k mile engine isn't the greatest recipe for reliability. A cam swap would mean discharging the A/C and substantial downtime. Headers on the otherhand, can be bolted on in a weekend, will increase power, and will not harm reliability. They are also a part that can be grown into, should I decide to cam or supercharge down the road (and would be a necessity anyway with said mods.)

Although the FMS headers were just re-released, they are very close in design to the stock manifolds, while the new Torque Monster headers are a much cooler design, with some neat technology behind them.

Tools Requied
Besides the usual compliment of wrenches, a few speciaity tools are needed. Don't make emergency parts runs like I did!

- A copious amount of 3/8" socket extensions and a good u-joint.
- 1/4" to 3/8" and 3/8" to 1/2" socket adapters.
- A good torque wrench.
- An 18mm offset wrench, for tightening the engine mount nuts.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/13422offset_wrench.jpg

Installation
(You'll have to excuse the salt, dirt, and surface rust. The weather has been really bad up here in Boston latley. Stay tuned for the big underbody painting thread come springtime.)

1) Jack up the truck, and support the lower a-arms or frame on jackstands. Remove wheels and fenderwell linings.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342201_Pass_Fenderwell_Removed.jpg
Passenger side fenderwell removed
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342202_Driver_Fenderwell_Removed.jpg
Driver's side fenderwell removed

2) Remove the 13mm bolt that connects the steering shaft. This will allow the lower section of the shaft to be rotated out of the way during installation.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342203_Steering_Shaft_Bolt.jpg
Steering shaft bolt

3) Remove all ignition wires and sparkplugs. Take the wires, and any mounting brackets completely off the engine. You'll be re-routing them once the headers are installed.

4) Remove manifold to downpipe bolts. There are two per manifold, and can be a pain to reach. U-joints and long extensions are a must.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342204_Driver_s_Side_downpipe_bolts.jpg
Driver's side downpipe to manifold bolts. View looking up, camera placed next to front driveshaft.

5) Begin to remove the driver's side exhaust manifold to head bolts. Some are studs, some are nuts. The dipstick, bolted onto cylinder seven's aft stud, just pulls straight out from its hole in the block.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342205_Dipstick_Tube_Assembly.jpg
Dipstick assembly

6) Remove the driver's side exhaust manifold. With the steering shaft pointing vertical, it will wiggle out underneith the brake booster.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342207_Removal_of_DS_Manifold.jpg
Removing the driver's side exhaust manifold, side view

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342206_Removal_of_DS_Manifold_top_view.jpg
Top View

7) With the manifold removed - compare it to the new header. My jaw dropped. :)

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342208_Driver_s_Side_Comparison.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342209_Collector_Comparison.jpg
Collector Compasion, stock stamped vs. TM Modified Merge

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342210_Stock_DS_header.jpg
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342211_stock_DS_ports.jpg
Stock header

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342212_TM_header_ports.jpg
Torque Monster Ports
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342213_DS_Manifold_Removed.jpg
Driver's side manifold removed

8) Install driver's side header. The header comes in two parts, allowing easier installation around the steering shaft and fuel lines.
a. sperate the #5 cylinde tube from the header.
b. Insert the main header piece at the rear of the motor.
c. Drop in the #5 cylinder connector.
d. put one bolt in each header peice, then bolt the two together. It is important to loosely bolt the headers to the head before bolting the flange together.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342214_DS_TM_header_installed.jpg
Completed driver's side header

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342215_DS_TM_header_top_view.jpg
Driver's side Torque Monster Header top view

9) Re-attach dipstick. It will just press into fit, and then can be bolted down with the other 8 header bolts. Normally, a threaded stud will hold the header to the block, and the dipstick will be bolted speratly to the stud. However, the header tube is so close to the stud, the larger nut will not fit on. My dipstick is temporarily bolted below the stud's main nut, untill a smaller nut can be obtained.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342216_Dipstick_re-attached.jpg
Dipstick re-installed

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342217_Dipstick_top_view.jpg
Dipstick top view

10) Torque down all 8 header to head bolts, and the two flange connection bolts. Do NOT connect the header to the downpipe at this point, flexibility is needed when the motor is subsequently lifted from its passenger side mount.

11) Begin to disassemble the passenger side for header installation. Disconnect the MAF, IAT, and crankcase breather from the air intake tube, then remove the intake tube. Remove the air filter and MAF. Lastly, unbolt the bracket that supports the MAF/airbox and the foglight realy. Put it aside, there is no need to remove the foglight relay.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342218_Airbox_Bracket.jpg
MAF support bracket. I have re-located the climate control vacuum reserve sphere to the upper fender, rather than have it be attached to the fenderwell lining. This 'mini-mod' was done last year during my aux trans filter install.

12) Remove the lower EGR tube-to-manifold connection. I used an adjustible wrench, as none of my combination wrenchs were large enough. Your miliage may vary.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342219_Lower_EGR_nut.jpg
Lower EGR tube-to-manifold nut

13) Remove the EGR vacuum hoses and the upper EGR nut.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342220_Upper_EGR_nut.jpg
Upper EGR nut

14) Remove the passenger side manifold-to-downpipe connection. I have liberally applied PB-Blaster to the bolt threads.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342222_Passenger_Manifold.jpg
Passenger side exhaust manifold

15) Remove the 8 manifold-to-head bolts, then remove the manifold. On the passenger side, the manifold is removed through the front of the engine compartment, above the A/C line and below the airbox's normal location.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342223_Passenger_Manifold_removal.jpg
Passenger side manifold removal

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342224_Pass_manifold_removed.jpg
Manifold removed

16) Comparison shots! Unlike the driver's side, the passenger header is one peice, and the tubes are almost equal in length.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342225_Pass_comparison.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342226_Pass_Comparison.jpg
Passenger comparison, including port size.

17) Since the header's tubes straddle the engine mount nuts, the engine must be lifted 1" to allow the header to clear. The engine mount nuts are 18mm, and heavily torqued down. I used PB-Blaster, and a deep-well socket. I put a 2ft breaker bar (steel pipe) over the end of my Craftsman ratchet to gain enough leverage to break the nuts free. Notes:
a.The driver's side mount does not need to be touched.
b. Section525 did not have to complete this step because of his body lift raising the heaterbox 3" out of the way.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342227_Engine_Mount_nuts.jpg
Passenger side engine mount nuts soaked in PB-Blaster

Do not remove the nuts, but merely bring them to the top of the motor mount studs. Through trial and error, I found the exact height of the nuts to be crucial. Don't go past the studs, or getting a wrench in to re-tighten them is impossible.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342228_engine_mount_nuts_raised.jpg
Nuts raised to their optimal height

18) Place a solid 2x4 block between the oil pan and a floorjack. Carefully jack up the motor untill the mount plate is touching the raise motor mount nuts.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342229_Raising_engine.jpg
Jacking up motor.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342230_engine_up.jpg
Engine raised.

19) Insert the header using the reverse procedure of the manifold's removal. This is where the header install gets tricky, and the part I had the most difficulty with. The header will clear the accessory bracket, forward upper control arm camber nut, shock tower and heaterbox. However, it must be finnessed into place, and then tipped back end down, forward end up to clear the motor mount nuts. If the exhaust downpipe is too far forward or inflexible, it will prevent this tilt. I coult not get the header to fit. While trading digital photos and talking on the phone with Robert Pasquale, Torque Monster's owner and the header's designer, we established that my downpipe was in the way. I then de-coupled the two downpipes (passenger and driver) from the rear cats and muffler, and wiggled the assembly aft.

The downpipes are held on by two bolts per pipe. They will most likley be very rusty and seized, and need to be ground off. While this proved to be the solution on my truck, I am the only Torque Monster Header installer who has had to do this step... oh I love this truck.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342232_Disconnect_Downpipe.jpg
Pass side downpipe disonnected

Due to my trial-and-error on inserting the header, I unfortunatley put some scratches in the ceramic coating, and wiped some rust-colored PB-Blaster on the headers. In the next photo, you can see how the tubes straddle the motor mount nuts.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342231_straddle_tubes.jpg
Scratched tubes

20) With the downpipe loose, the header has plenty of wiggle room. Once it is into position, and straddling the motor mount nuts, lower the motor back down onto its mount.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342234_straddling_installed.jpg
Header straddling nuts

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342236_pass_wiggle_room.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342233_pass_header_almost_in.jpg
Passenger header almost in


21) Re-tighten the engine mount nuts. The forward nut is easily accessible. The rear nut is a huge PITA, and can only be reached with an offset wrench. This tighetening took a very long time, and required holding the header up and out of the way, while taking miniscule turns on the wrench. These nuts are supposed to be torqued to 95ft-lbs; since I wasn't able to get a torque wrench on them, I just pulled until I couldn't pull anymore! :D

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342235_retightening_engine_mount_nuts.jpg
Tightening engine mount nuts

22) Insert the exhaust header gasket from the front. Bob supplies gaskets, bolts, and even the locktite needed with the headers. :thumbsup:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342237_pass_gasket.jpg
Inserting gasket

23) Bolt up the header to the head. Normal procedure suggests that the outer two bolts be done first, but the extreme tube configuration means that the forward bolt on cylinder #4 needs to be inserted first.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342238_pass_two_bolts.jpg
Initiall bolting

24) Once the header bolts are properly torqued down to 30ft-lbs, re-install the sparkplugs. Here again, u-joints and extensions are a necessity.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342239_sparkplug_install.jpg
Sparkplug installation

25) Now a fun project begins: Reshaping the EGR tube to accept the headers.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342221_Stock_EGR_shape.jpg
Original 1997 EGR shape

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342240_EGR_bending.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342241_EGR_final_bend.jpg
EGR final bench bend

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342242_EGR_installed.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342243_EGR_vacuum_lines.jpg
EGR tube re-installed

26) Torque Monster stainless steel spark plug heatsheilds, similar to the stock GT40P heatsheilds on cylinders 3-4 and 7-8, these are much thicker and go on all of the cylinders, except #3 - it won't fit due to the bend of the header tube. The old, thin Ford part did fit.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342244_pass_heatshields.jpg
Heatsheilds on passenger side

27) Ignition wire routing: I had purchased a set of 1998 Taylor Spira-Pro 8mm ignition wires from Summit Racing this past spring. I also purchased a set of TransDapt wire standoffs and wirelooms to aid in re-routing the ignition wires away from heat and moving parts. Everything fit really well, but took a few tires to get right, as the new wire layout is far from stock.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342255_taylor_plugwire.jpg
Taylor Spira-Pro wire with included heatsheild.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342249_cyl_1-2_plugwires.jpg
Cylinder 1&2 initial ignition wire routing

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342250_cyl_3-4_plugwires.jpg
Cylinder 3&4 initial ignition wire routing

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342251_pass_routing_and_looms.jpg
Passenger side wire routing, with wire heatshields, split-tubing for chafe protection, and wire standoffs.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342253_DS_routing.jpg
Driver's side ignition wire routing and wire standoffs

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342254_label_at_the_coil.jpg
Always label your wires. I didn't and crossed two of them, yeilding a misfire. Don't rush, go slow, and always double check. I've had this ignition system apart many times, and made this stupid error.


Areas to monitor:

The following photo is of the clearance between the #4 primary tube and the A/C system orifice tube. It's less than 1/2", and I have been assured by Bob that this is more than enough clearance. Nevertheless, this is in the 'cold' line of the A/C system, and may hamper performance/soak in excess heat.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3401/1342252_Header_to_Orifice_clearance.jpg

More to follow in the next few days

Sound files! You must post sound files!! :cool:

Sounds will come, after I get an exhaust on her. I'm re-thinking my cat-back plans, and will most likley go with a single 3" out, rather than dual 2.5" pipes.

Did some small projects on 3/22/05:
1) Replaced el-cheapo fog lights with Hella 550 Ambers. These things are old school, rectangular H3 based fogs, but they have AMAZING optics. The beam is very flat and wide, with a clean edge. The driver's side cheapie was hit by a rock and broke, hopefully the Hella's won't suffer a similar fate, as they are not really protected by the brushgaurd. I'll post some photos of the install and the light output shortly.

2) Re-wired the fog light relay so the dash switch is active when the parking lights are on. Now I have fogs w/o low beams, and w/high beams! I followed Taxman2k's writeup located here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31137

I tapped into the passenger side parking light, above the headlight unit. The center wire in the plug is +12v when the parking lights are on. The other two wires are ground, and turn signal. As usual, all connections were crimped and heat-shrunk.

3) Throttle cable mod... results TBD. The throttle pedal had some play in it, and now is nice and solid.

4) Took the truck into Firestone for an alignment. I purchased a lifetime alignment package this past summer, so I can take it in whenever I want now. I think it's going to pay off, as this is already alignment #2 with the plan. This is now the third time the truck has been aligned since the TT/31s install (first time was free, w/tire purchase), yet the first time the alignment tech has checked/changed the camber!! Before today's alignment, the adjustment shims were pointing vertical. Now they're cranked over, and on the printout the tech noted: 'Truck was lifted, unable to bring camber into specs.' About time they noticed! WTF did the previous techs do on those two sub-standard alignments?!?!?!

Here are the alignment specs for those following at home:
Left Front Right Front Specified Range
Camber: -1.12 -1.13 -1.00 - 0.00
Toe: 0.15 0.15 0.03 - 0.28

Cross Camber: 0.01 -0.70 - 0.70
Total Toe: 0.30 0.05 - 0.55

The cruise control disconnect switch located in the Brake Master Cylinder was subject to recall on many trucks, but not ours, even though we have the same switch. Rather than worry about my truck spontaneously combusting:

Here it is: The photo-documented writeup.

This whole deal took 15 minutes, and 15 dollars.

Here's what you need:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3437/13422IM001893.jpg
Brake Recall Kit

9/16" Wrench to remove old sensor
Liquid thread sealant
22mm Wrench to install new sensor

Here's what the old sensor looks like in place:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3437/13422IM001892.jpg
Note: I disconnected the wiring harness as soon as I learned about the fire danger.

Place some teflon thread sealant on the threads of the new sensor.

Here's what the new sensor looks like:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3437/13422IM001894.jpg

-Place a rag and a small container under the Master Cylinder and switch, brake fluid will strip paint.

-Remove the old sensor:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3437/13422IM001896.jpg

-Screw in the new sensor

-Before tightening down the sensor, get an assistant to depress the brake pedal and bleed out any air.

-Tighten new sensor

-Install wiring harness jumper. Ford changed the plug on the sensor, and included a 6" wiring harness to take care of the difference.

Finall installation:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3437/13422IM001895.jpg

Looks like it took longer to post this than it took to do the work, photography included. :D

Long awaited pics:

Gas Tank removed, comparison to Junk Yard sport tank:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_11.jpg

The sport tank is on the right.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_12.jpg

As I thought, they're identical in the rear! The sport tank is just shorter.

Forward gas tank support, it simply bolts to the frame:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_14.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_17.jpg


Long frame! The cross section doesn't change that much, so I should be able to drill and rebolt the front mount.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_09.jpg

The hole in the floor under the console proves its usefullness once again: for access to the 2 upper t-case bolts.
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_18.jpg

Pile o' cases:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_05.jpg
The closest one with the d-shaft still attached is the old AWD 4404, the shiney one is a 4405 from a 2000 V6 explorer, and the one in the rear is the new 4406.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_04.jpg

This beast is HUGE!
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_03.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_02.jpg

T-case removed, transmission output shaft and tailshaft housing:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_08.jpg

I removed the secondary cats, as well as the driver's side downpipe for easier access to that 6th t-case bolt.

It seems like it will clear the frame fine, but a Body Lift and removal of the secondary cats might be in my future.

It's in!!!

:bounce:

Got the t-case sitting on the transmission jack. I used a few 2x4s placed under the rangebox to get the clocking angle pretty close. My dad helped steady the case on the jack as it was being raised and wiggled.

We raised and lowered the case a few times to get everything right. Here is what I had to trim off the t-case:

Castings off the top:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_21.jpg

It turns out my closest contact area was the body, right where the tunnel drops into the floor pan. I was able to avoid the BL, using my good friend the BFH. :hammer:

And oops... didn't get a photo of the small indent I made.

I also had to cut and trim the heatsheild for the cats:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_22.jpg

Blue RTV to seal between the t-case and transmission tailhousing:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_20.jpg

Then it went in super easy! Six bolts later:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_23.jpg

Look at all that clearance to the frame!!
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_25.jpg

Navigator rear driveshaft fits perfect:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_24.jpg

It looks like the front drivehsaft output will clear the torsion bar x-membher fine as well:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_27.jpg

Now it's on to the gas tank....

She's back on the road!

Got all the mechanicals buttoned up today:

My sport tank came with the fuel pump and sender assembly. Although www.car-part.com listed the sport pump/sender assemblies as different from the 4dr units, they are identical. Mine have the same part number, and were made within two months of each other.

I installed a new in-tank strainer on the pump: $19.99 at Autozone. 2 filters are listed, a 4.5" one and a 6" one. Both the 4dr and sport tanks use the 6" filter.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_29.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_30.jpg

The top of the new sport tank was rather rusty, while the bottom was fine. A little wire-wheeling and POR-15:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_31.jpg

Relocated forward gastank mount:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_40.jpg

I removed the secondary cats and the driver's side downpipe for easier access. The downpipe is a major PITA to remove/install with the pass downpipe still in place. I was initially worried about clearance with the secondary cat assembly, but there is more clearance here than between the transmission and the passenger side main cat.

Transfercase to catayltic converter assembly clearance:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_34.jpg

T-Case and gastank clearance, looking in from driver's side:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_36.jpg

Driveshaft clearance looking aft:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_32.jpg

Driveshaft clearance close up:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_37.jpg

I'm working on the electronics, and thought I'd post the P/Ns of the GEMs:

Old Gem: "Sport Utility 4x2" F77-14B205-AA "B" EB1B024137

New Gem: "Sport Utility A4WD-LIVE" F77B-14305-BC "C" EC2A5249B6

TOD Relay: F57B-2C222-AA
Black Module behind Airbag. The module in the 95-97s is different from the module in the 98+'s. They have different connectors.

Shift Motor Relay: F57B-6912-BA

Also, StadX2 had to provide neutral input for the GEM, and power to the shift relay under the hood, but I'm pre-wired. :D

She shifts!!! I have low range! :bounce:

And the only wiring I'll have to do is "the brown wire mod." :D

Some interesting observations on the workings of the control-trac systems in the 97 Explorer and Expedition.When the shift motor is removed from the case, the shift knob is seen:

The Explorer's 4405 t-case has only two positions "H" and "L." In both positions, the front shaft output is controlled by the electro-magnetic clutch. When in 4Auto, the clutch is pulsed to achieve AWD. In both 4hi and 4low, the clutch is always on/engaged. When power is removed from the clutch, the front shaft is "disconnected." This allows the brown wire mod to give both 2wd and 4wd low.

The Expedition's 4406 operates slightly differently, and better IMO. The t-case selector has three positions, 2wd, 4hi and 4low, like traditional cases. Thankfully, the 2wd mode and 4low are in the same exact place as on the 4405. This means that the electric motor will shift the case into each mode, and not get stuck in between gears.

The in 2wd mode, the 4406 behaves just like the 4405 in hi. The front shaft output is controlled by the electromagnetic clutch. No power, and it's true 2wd; pulsed power, and it's awd, full power, and it's in 4hi.

In both 4hi and 4low modes, the case slides a mechanical coulpler over the electromagnetic clutch, bypassing it, and truly locking the case together like an old school maual case.

We can't access the middle locked 4hi mode with our GEM, but still get 4hi the old explorer way, with a fully locked clutch.

The only downside to this system is no 2low, but the benifit of having truly locked 4low makes it worth it.

Costs of the swap:

Transfer Case
BW4406 Transfer Case w/Shift motor: $150 (Junkyard)
Application: 1997-1998 Ford Expedition/Lincoln Navigator.

Rear Driveshaft
1998 Lincoln Navigator Rear Driveshaft: $100 (Junkyard)
Application: 1997-2001 Ford Expedition, Lincoln Navigator with 4wd, 5.4L, air suspention, 2-joint shaft:
New U-Joints: $20

Front Driveshaft
2000 F150 Front Driveshaft: $75 (Junkyard)
Application: 1997-2002 F150 and Expedition with 4wd and 4.6L.
New stock U-Joint for t-case end: $10
Conversion U-Joint for pinion end: $10

Gas Tank
Explorer Sport 17gal gas tank, fuel pump, and skidplate: $90 (Junkyard)
Application: Your year Explorer. (2DR)

Misc Electronics
TOD Relay, Shift Relay, Radio Bezel w/4wd Switch: $30 (Junkyard)
Application: Your Year Range Explorer (95-97, 98-01. The 95-96 Radio Bezels will work, but the 4wd switch has the wrong label. The 98+ Radio Bezels will work, but have a green backlight, not blue.)

GEM Module
1997 4x4 GEM: $30 (Junkyard)
Application: This MUST come from your EXACT year explorer, only from a V6 w/4x4. Both SHOC and OHV V6s used the same GEM.

Misc Shop supplies, sealants and fluids: $25 (est)

Total w/o front shaft: $520

More to follow....

I've always thought the Message Center computers were neat to have, calculting miles per gallon, distance till empty, and other neat fuel management functions. I piced up a 1998 M/C, with wiring harness at a junkyard for free, and thought it would be a cool project.

I used several writeups to help me along:
1) Big Country's writeup: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80670
2) ASP84's writeup: http://www.section525.com/asp84
3) My 1997 Ford OEM shop CD was the most valuable, providing complete connector pinouts in the "EVTM" section.

The following table is pinout and color info I decerned from the EVTM diagrams on the CD, and are the sensors needed to hook up the M/C. The rest of the wiring is merely grounds, constant powers, and hot in run powers.

This connector is the big square one located on the firewall, next to the wiper motor. I feel it's the easist place to tap in, and won't impede removing the engine if need be.

Circuit Numbers and Wire Colors for 1997
Connector C115: Body to Engine Harness
[Pin][circuit](wire color)function
[2][11](T/Y) Tachometer
[7][679](GY/BK) Vehicle Speed
[10][29](Y/W) Fuel Level
[16][39](R/W)Engine Water Temp
[27][305](LB/PK) Fuel Flow

I Installed the 1998 M/C, and everything seemed to work, however I found that it would only read the speed data over about 35mph. In 1998, Ford stopped putting the VSS in the t-case tailshaft, and instead used an output from the ABS computer (located near the battery) to create the speed signal. I tried tapping into all sorts of leads, but no luck. Here's the lesson: 1996-1997 Trucks need 1996-1997 M/Cs. 1998+ trucks need 1998+ M/Cs.

I found a 1997 Message Center installed this afternoon - it works great! The "Distance Traveled" function matched my trip odometer perfectly, and as a result, the mi/gal and distance till empty functions work as well. The M/C I used was manufactued on March 20, 1997. It has a part # of: F77F-10D898-AB

The 1997 M/C does have the input for the 'lamp out' warning module, but just like oil temp/level sender, only generates and error when the "system check" button is pressed. I don't think I'll install this feature. The 1997 also has the blueish-green display, matching my dash, climate, and overhead console. The 1997 unit also has "instantaneous MPG," or the leadfoot-o-meter. :thumbsup:

I had previously installed two Autometer gauges in my center console, and wanted to retain their position. I disassembled the message center, and grafted in a peice of plastic into the console where the switches were. I modified the gauges, and the message center computer casing to all fit together. It's tight, but does fit. I then moved the message center buttons to the side of the center console, cutting a hole for them by the driver's legs. It's an ok position for the switches, not great.

Here are some pics I took during install. Sorry bout the quality, they were taken with a budget digicam and no flash. I'll take some of the finished product soon.

Splicing into the body harness behind the C115 connector for ECU data:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3389/13422Engine_Bay_Harness01.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3389/13422Engine_Bay_Harness02.jpg

Center Console wiring:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3389/13422Center_Console.jpg

Autometer Gauges in place of stock switch plate:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3389/13422Autometer_Gauges.jpg

Message Center harness, crimped and heatshrunk:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3389/13422heatshrink_harness.jpg

Message Center computer during testing:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3389/13422Computer_in_console.jpg

Shaved computer mount to clear Autometer gauge:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3389/13422Shaved_Computer.jpg

More to be added....

"...After all, one man's trash...." :D

Is there any difference between a message center and a overhead console in terms of what they do? Or was it just 2 different styles of the same computer?

Is there any difference between a message center and a overhead console in terms of what they do? Or was it just 2 different styles of the same computer?

My Mountaineer came standard with the overhead console, which contains a magnetic compass and a display for outside ambient temperature.

The Message Center is, for the most part, a fuel management computer. It came on Eddie Bauer and Limited models. Since it uses VSS input, 95-97 models use one version, and 98-01 models use another. They are not compatible with each other.

With inputs such as fuel level, speed, and fuel flow, it displays the following functions:

1) Distance Traveled. Nothing more than a 2nd trip odometer, its resetable.
2) Miles untill empty. Using both fuel level and average MPG to calculate the reading.
3) Gallons untill empty.
4) Gallons used. Resetable.
5) Instantaneous MPG. Fuel flow with speed compensation.
6) Average MPG. Resetable.
7) There are other functions as well, such as windsheild washer fluid level monitoring, oil temp monitoring, and exterior light monitoring. I only hooked up the fuel management features.

Pictures from the electrical install:

Parts Needed:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_41.jpg

-GEM
-Bezel with switches
- Torque On Demand Relay
- Shift Relay
- T-case harness

Torque On Demand Relay:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_42.jpg

Brown wire clipped and extended for 2wd switch:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_46.jpg

Shift Motor Relay, and GEM:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_43.jpg

T-case wiring harness, under driver's seat:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_44.jpg

T-case wiring harness, at t-case:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_45.jpg

Big thanks to StadX2, his research in the electrics portion of the swap meant all I had to due was plug in modules.

His writeup can be found here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85487

Front d-shaft installed.

Autozone had the u-joint I needed, for only 11.99. It's not listed by application, only part number. But it is stocked.

Front shaft from a 2000 F150 w/4.6 and 4x4:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_47.jpg

It has flanges on both sides that use the 1330 u-joint. The flanges have a 2.5" square bolt circle.

Slip yoke almost fully compressed when installed:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_48.jpg

Front "conversion" u-joint w/grease fitting:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_49.jpg
(Autozone P/N: 185793, PDQ #109134. $11.99)

Front driveshaft to torsion bar cross member clearance, looking aft:
http://www.explorerforum.com/data/3335/13422Transfer_Case_Swap_-_50.jpg

I really like your Mounty, Aaron. :D Nice job on it. That's awesome that you've got low range! :thumbsup:

wow youve done a lot of work. keep it up, i want to see more.

*edit*
im going to do some sound deadening in the cargo area today depending on when it arrives, i ordered 40 sq. ft.. i dont think its enough but its better than nothing, it costed me $102 shipped to my door. i heard it was better than equal or better than dynamat (depending on the thickness you get). i ordered it from Second Skin Audio (www.secondskinaudio.com) (recomendation from a few people)

Aaron where is you next write up? I read your write ups like I read 4wheeler or 4 Wheel and off road. Where is this months issue? Just kidding really sweat Mounty keep up the good work

Next issue:

Clear Corner Installation. :D

I want to know if the message center can be made to work in 02+ 4.6 v8 4 doors, like a limited. I want one of those so bad but their interior needs "something" - I believe the message center is what it's missing!

Also can the brown wire mod be done to the 4.6 liter v8's? I see they have some control over the t-case unlike the 96-01's 5.0's do.

I can tell you right now that unless the 4.6L can be had with selectable control-trac (i'm not as knowledgeable on 3rd gens), then no, you can't brown-wire a stock AWD rig. If it has the BW 4405 or whatever with the electric clutch, then yes, by all means you should be able to brown-wire it.

Just a little bump, I hit 159,000k miles today.

Just a little bump, I hit 159,000k miles today.

My how the time flies.. Its been that long already? :scratch: It seams like yesterday, but its been over 2yrs..

Too long, but it does feel like yesterday. The sharpie on my Beach Permit from 2005 has faded, every time I look at that sticker it pains to think that was the last time I went off road!

However, in the next few months I'm buying a small pickup to use as my DD, and I'll resume modifying the Mountainer, maybe with the aid of a sawzall and a welder :D

Too long, but it does feel like yesterday. The sharpie on my Beach Permit from 2005 has faded, every time I look at that sticker it pains to think that was the last time I went off road!

However, in the next few months I'm buying a small pickup to use as my DD, and I'll resume modifying the Mountainer, maybe with the aid of a sawzall and a welder :D
good call!

Well the "next few months" turned into "this weekend."

I have a new toy, she weighs 2 tons and has a manual transmission :D

Just what the doctor ordered: 2000 Ranger std cab, long bed (7'), 2.5l 4cyl, 5spd manual, pw/pl/keyless entry/cruise/pwr mirrors/72k miles, 1 owner, recent clutch, she runs great!! The bed is a little dinged, and the rear bumper is AFU, but otherwise fine shape.

Let me be the first to say....NICE RACK! :D

Let me be the first to say....NICE RACK! :D

Damn :p: I so wanted to say that. It was the 1st thing that came to mind when viewing the pictures of it.. The 2nd was about how much better gas mileage it has over the mounty. I'm surprised you hadn't bought a truck before now anyway considering all the construction materials you have been cramming in the mounty since you got her..

Anyway congrats on the new ride.. you'll need to make a new thread now :D

Purchased some MFG 33x12.5x15 Mudders today... let it begin. Now I must decide between 15x8s or 15x10s.

Purchased some MFG 33x12.5x15 Mudders today... let it begin. Now I must decide between 15x8s or 15x10s.

My fault, I told you in my PM I went with 15x11.50 rims. :rolleyes: I meant 15x8.

Many people run 15x8s 4.75 BS because this rim orients the tire in a position that closely matches OEM (1st pic).. I'm running 15x10s 3.75 BS on my Explorer and had to remove 2-3" of the fender directly behind the front wheels to alleviate rubbing (this was in addition to a 4" suspension lift + 3/4" body lift)
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/503/thumbs/18205Tires2.JPG (http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=13028) http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3364/thumbs/18205backspacing.jpg (http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17743) http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3451/thumbs/182052005_Jamboree_02_WEB.jpg (http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=19558)

I'm running 15x10s 3.75 BS on my Explorer and had to remove 2-3" of the fender directly behind the front wheels to alleviate rubbing (this was in addition to a 4" suspension lift + 3/4" body lift)

That comparison graphic is awesome - thanks for that John!

I'm leaning towards 15x8s for the following reasons:
1) They are cheaper!
2) They seem to be less prone to rubbing.
3) People say that the smaller rim is better for low psi situations

I'm still considering 15x10s for the following reasons:
1) BFG's own website recommends them.
2) They're only about $10/more.
3) They look good!

Been Way too long since I updated this thread... And I've been busy!

<This Post Reserved For Waterpump/Timing Chain/Timing Cover Photos/Writeup>

NOTE: The original thread for the buildup is located here:http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211266

Here are my plans for my 1997 Mountaineer V8, and the official buildup thread.

The Goal: Fitting Interco TrXus MT 33x12.5R15 with style and offroad prowess.

The Plan:
Front Suspention: Superlift 4"
Rear Suspention: SOA, stock springs, warrior shackles.
Rear Axle: Originally belonging to IZwack, it's a 1998 with 4.56 gears and SOA perches. Limited Slip.
Front Axle: 1995 Explorer, with Central Axle Disconnect. Being regeared to 4.56. Open, perhaps an Aussie Locker.

New tire mounted on rear axle:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/RearTire1.jpg

New 33" TrXus MTs vs 31" BFG ATs:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/Tire-Comparison01.jpg

Went up to visit Jay (SurrealNJ) to pick up IZwack's axle:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/Newaxle3.jpg

Came home to find this on my porch:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/boxedlift.jpg

Opened them up (although fedex and heavy parts in only a cardboard uhaul box left the packaging kind of destroyed :rolleyes:)
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/porchlift.jpg

Everything looks OK at first glance, some of the drop brackets were hit with the grinder:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/groundbracket.jpg

And this one is bent...
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/bentbracket.jpg

Tomorrow I'll unpack and study everything further.

Rip that IFS out!!!

Best helper ever:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/besthelper.jpg

Lots of paint pen so I know how to put it back together:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/DS-Torsion-adjuster.jpg

Pass side stock knuckle, LCA, t bar:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/passifs.jpg

Diffy Down:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/diffydown.jpg

All Out:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/ifsallout.jpg

It looks good!!! So tempting to take a grinder to the rest of it and go buy myself a Rubicon D44 and just SAS the darn thing.

And many thanks to Evan for Fedexing me my new front driveshaft, a new incarnation in the 4406 shaft swap saga.

Even though the balljoints and tie rod ends are recent MOOGs, they all need new boots and might need replacing :(

New custom brakelines!

Rubber fluid contact surface/stainless braid/plastic covering. All new, OEM style fittings with rubber chafe protection. Fronts extended 5", Rear extended 8"

Tested to 3000psi and DOT stamped.

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/Brakelines01.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/Brakelines02.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/Brakelines03.jpg

Reflaring the rear brake hardline, it broke when I disconnected the old rubber hose. This was a hard job at first because the rent-a-tool flare kit at Autozone sucks. I bought a good one at Sears, practiced, and make a leakproof joint.

The Craftsman double-flare kit was a night and day difference from the Autozone renter (I'm not surprised) and I found a fantastic tubing cutter at my local Ace Hardware (also made in the USA) that blazes through the steel line nice and clean. I also prepped the lines with 220grit sandpaper and some tiny modeler's files.

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/Reflare.jpg

Almost completed flare, just needs a bit more sanding of the bumps:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/doubleflare.jpg

Finished and not leaking during repeated brake pedal holds:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/rearbrakelinedone01.jpg

The joint/union accomplishes two things:
1) It allows for the retention of the stock bracket
2) It allowed me to put a "factory" flare against my new brake line, and let the female-female union take the "brunt" of my homemade flares. They're good, but the steel is softer in the union and allows for a margin of error.

Notice my pimp energy suspension bumpstop, I had to cut off the Ford one to get the bracket out.

Popped the cover off the regeared D35 Front Axle, pattern looked good. Thoughts:

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/d35Gears-01.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/d35Gears-02.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/d35Gears-03.jpg

Ran most of my wiring for the central axle disconnect:

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/CADrelays.jpg

I just need to add the switch and indicator light in the cab, as well as find the stupid 2-pin connector for the diff sensor.

Here's how it'll work:
Both solenoids are connected to a common hot that's on with the ignition, and then one wire from each is connected to the relay. The relay common is connected to ground. By default, the "disconnect" solenoid will be engaged. When a simple on-off SPST switch is pressed to on, the relay will shift the ground to the "connect" solenoid, and voila.

Installation progress:

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/FrontAssembly01.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/FrontAssembly02.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/FrontAssembly03.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/FrontAssembly04.jpg

Driver's side spindle completed:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/DriverSpindleDone01.jpg

Passenger's side spindle completed:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/PassSpindleDone01.jpg

Front Lift Only!!

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/FrontLiftOnly01.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/FrontLiftOnly02.jpg

Photos are of front Superlift and rear Add-a-Lead and Shackles, SUA.

Rear SOA Progress:

Rear axle out:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/RearAxleOut01.jpg

IZwack left me with some pimp dady ebrakes!! This was a great discovery after about 15min of propane torch to get the rotor off.

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/noebrake01.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/shockmountcomparsion01.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/shockmountcomparsion02.jpg

Hybrid shaft from a 1st gen Explorer w/TTB and a new yoke for the double cardan to meet to the 4406.

Comparison with my "old" F150 shaft for the 4406 swap. This new shaft can be shorter or longer, so it would be a great system for future 4406 swappers looking for a double cardan.

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/Driveshafts01.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/driveshafts02.jpg

Double Cardan mounted to 4406:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/doublecardan01.jpg

Clearance between x-member and shaft:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/frontdsclearance.jpg

Driveshaft to diff pinion attachment:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/frontdspinion.jpg

wheres the pictures... i wanna see her!

Ask, and yee shall receive:

Something has changed.... hrmm....
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/RearTire31-01.jpg

One of these things is not like the other...
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/RearTire31-02.jpg

Not too bad!
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/FirstFlex02.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3702/FirstFlex01.jpg

Still have a bit of work to do, but she's road worthy and a whole lot of good looks.

So after a weekend of this:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3736/IMG_0941.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3736/IMG_0945.jpg

...a little bit this:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3736/IMG_0965.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3736/IMG_0961.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3736/IMG_0959.jpg

...a touch of that:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3736/IMG_0957.jpg

...and some time spent on here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3736/medium/IMG_6715.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3736/medium/IMG_6714.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/3736/medium/IMG_6713.jpg

I ended up with one heck of a to-do list....and one impressive Mountaineer!

WOOOOT!! Aaron finally has a stout 'froader!! Now "give it some gas" means a little more. :D

looks a lot better aaron keep up good work

Looks great! Quick tip though...

Cut these off or when you flex out the rear (and you will since you're IFS), they will hit the shocks and dent them. You don't want those pretty shocks to look like mine. And yes, I still need to cut mine off. :)

...Congrats on having a blast and the Mounty performing to your approval..:biggthump

...Just curious as to the cost of your brake lines??...Those look like what I have and they are not cheap...:eek:

...Congrats on having a blast and the Mounty performing to your approval..:biggthump

...Just curious as to the cost of your brake lines??...Those look like what I have and they are not cheap...:eek:

No... they were not cheap. The front lines were $40/each and the rear was $55. They were done by a local hydraulic shop that specialized in truck brakes.

...Mine are longer but were double that for the fronts...:(

...Mine are longer but were double that for the fronts...:(

Don, CDW69...??? said that he paid even less than I did for his.

Love this truck.

...so when are you doing the SAS? lol

That is an impressive Mountaineer. :biggthump

DRF

Love this truck.

...so when are you doing the SAS? lol

That is an impressive Mountaineer. :biggthump

DRF

Thanks - I like yours too with the SAS!

As for my SAS, I need to have more time for the truck before I can - work keeps me busy. I haven't even broken in (or broken) the Superlift yet!

...As for my SAS, I need to have more time for the truck before I can - work keeps me busy. I haven't even broken in (or broken) the Superlift yet!

I feel you there, the results you see on mine are 2 years worth of late nights after work and catching a day here and there between trips.

almost there though, pretty soon I'll have some sweet pics like those.

im waiting until i break the superlift, or the truck lol.

i couldnt go that long without being able to wheel.. i have in the past (after it rolled) and thats not gonna happen again