After measuring many times and reading all the current sas posts I,m still left with a few problems. The first is, Know matter how I measure this axle. I do not see how taking length off of any one side will make it fit properly. If I take it all off of the long side. The distance from the inner to the diff housing is going to put the drive shaft in contact with Y pipe from the exhaust. And the drive shaft angle is going to be angled inboard Approx. 5 deg. If I take length of of the inboard side to correct width there wille be little or no room for the leaf spring to mount. The second question pertains to knuckles and hubs. Can the knuckles hubs and lock outs be used from a fullsize bronco with TTB.http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/752407250005.jpg

Knuckles and hubs from a full size should work fine. Don't know how the shafts will like that so you may want to check the spline count. As for shortening it, the tube gets cut. Then you have to get custom shafts. OF just have it cut to EB length and get EB shafts.

I think you missed my point. I,m not having it cut I,m cutting it myself so I need to know how much and where. And the offset problem still remains. I think the E.B. length is close but still not exactly right. The full size knuckle and hubs I was refering to are Twin trac beam version. Can any one verifiy that they will work.

no EB is a little wider than stock. But you will pay out the A$$ for shafts and if you ever need to replace one you gotta wait for it to be made.

TTB will not work on solid D44. EB width brings everything pretty close to where it should be, drive shaft should line up fine, your taking 5.something" off the pass side. Check out Mudd Whores SAS writeup, very informative, lots of good stuff

After checking into cutting the housing. I found the best amount to cut and not have custom shafts made. If you cut 5.97 inches off the Long side You can run EB shafts on the Passenger side and Full size Bronco Shafts on the Driver side. This was info that I got From my Good Friend Randall.

I,m having trouble with info overload. I think I over researched for once. Its all becoming a fog.:confused:
Muskrat Most people are lifting farther than I want to so the location of the diff. is not so much of an issue for them. I want to stay as low as possible and clear 33,s That means I need to get mine as close to the stock location as possible. Getting shafts shortened and resplined does not cost me anything. Thanks for the TTB reply.:)

How much are you talking? What springs do you plan on running, because there aren't too many options, aside form custom springs. I hope your not planning on using ttb lift springs, they're too stiff to flex well from my understanding

Also, you have to lift high enough to clear the engine crossmember. The lowest that I have seen is Tiessen's ex, using 3.5" james duff coils, which works out to 6" of lift. And I believe that he had to do some clearance on the crossmember. Any lower and you'll have to replace the engine crossmember with tubes, or something.

The tentitive plan is to use tj springs. But I have all the parts from a 79 lifted ford van, Coil over. The set up appears to be a complete james duff lift for late 70,s f 150. I,m going to try the leaf spring setup from the TJ. first. The engine cross member is coming out first and a piece we built in our shop is going in. Bolt in removable. 2"x 5" 3/8 extruded square tube. I,ll post a picture as soon as its in. I,m shooting for 4-5 total lift. If it does not work I,ll change it:) I.m looking for an excuse to buy some perry,s fenders any how.

I,m going to try the leaf spring setup from the TJ. first.
I am confused here. You mean the rear leafs right? TJs don't have leafs up front.

Robb

I was told it was a Deaver 6 leaf 2" plus pack. It seams very soft.

hmmmm have a look at what i did, http://www.minnis.ca/gallery/album04 i cut mine 6".
Dont use EB shafts just cut your's down and have it re-splined ;)
hope this helps a bit.

Its a weld on mount out of a 3/4 ton ford van.http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/752407260008.jpg

Thanx

Which year Ford HP D44axles have the cast in wedges and which have the welded on wedges? Just thinking if one didnt want to use radius arms......

If you want to use Leaf spring get an F-250 Axle set up for Leaf spring already. My Axle came with welded mounts from a 78 F-150 but Randall's 79 Bronco axle had Cast mounts.

today and ordered lockouts from mile marker. I,m leaning toward shortining both sides and getting shortened and resplined inners for both sides. 2" on short side and 3 3/4 off of the long side. I,m still looking for 4.10 ring and pinion. While at the boneyard yard today I looked under a Toyota Land Cruiser. I could not believe how stout there running gear is. I,m thinking of using one of the rear trailing arm bars from the Toyota to use for a track bar. That damn thing had a full floating rear and the axle itself looked like a beefy 9 inch.

Eureka 16.11/16" short side inner shaft. The goal was two inches shorterer on the inner and 4" shorter on outer. If any one has suggestions on the outer, I would really like to hear about it. This project is really consuming. The short side inner is from a jeep J 10

Hubs and rotors. (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1304&item=2920429972) Now I know for sure. Still looking for brake backing plates. I sure wish some one would tell me they have tried using the dana44 TTB integrated knuckles and brake mounting plates, then it would quit bothering me.:)

Inner shaft measures 15 1/2 inches from center of u-joint to the end of the splines. http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/752408100009.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/752408120010.jpg Now I have a used set of warn factory style and these. A few more parts and I will be ready to start.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/752408200002.jpg
That was nerve racking:banghead:

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/752408200004.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/752408200006.jpg

I ended up removing 3 inches from the short side and 2 5/8 from the long side. I,m still looking for some 4.10 or 4.11 gears. To hot to do much else today.

Originally posted by Robb
I am confused here. You mean the rear leafs right? TJs don't have leafs up front.

Robb

TJs don't have leafs anywhere.

XJ: 84-96 Cherokee coil front, leaf rear
YJ: 87-95 Wrangler leafs front and rear
TJ: 97-03 Wrangler coil front and rear
ZJ: 91-97 Grand Cherokee coil front and rear
WJ: 98-03 Grand Cherokee coil front and rear

6 leaf spring pack would ride and flex nice. I'm guessing you will be mounting the leafs on top of the axle? With as little lift as you want, do you think that will leave you enough room between spring and frame for up-travel?

a local 4x4 shop and were take offs. I got 6 sets and do not even know exactly what they came from. I told the owner the application and he saved everything for a month that he figured would be close to my application. There are jeep scout and chevy packs but to be honest I dont even know which is which. Three of the packs are new or like new. As far as clearance goes I,m not sure yet. The center section now should fit in the excact same location as the d-35, but the demensions of the 44 are larger and I need to mount it a little farther forward. So I guess I wont know for sure tell I cut the hanger mounts out and try it. It looks like i,m going to try to move everything 3" forward from it present location.

For the spring chart. I copied it and put it in my build up folder.

Originally posted by ALYZ1FLR
For the spring chart. I copied it and put it in my build up folder.

No prob. I'm always interested in what others build in their SAS. Mine may come some day. I've build many others. Mounting the axle fwd will be great for firewall and fender clearance. Keep us posted.

You will not be able to move the front axle forward more than 1" with the stock pitman arm. You would need full hydraulic steering to be able to move it 3". Or you can worry about lengthening the steering shaft and moving the steering box forward.

But I think I have that one whooped. But I dont want to jinx it, or stick my foot in my mouth just yet. I think I have found something that might help out the rack and pinion guys though. Some one needs needs to try the Honda passport steering box. I sat one up against the frame of a 97 in the area where an early x would have its box mounted and it looked like it belonged there. And it has a long snout. The 97 was stripped though so I dont know what all would normally be in the way.

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/2069i-1.jpg When you went to these knuckles did you have to change anything else?

Those knuckles are off of an f250, which are fine if you want to run 8 lug. I already had 2 sets of 5 on 5.5 rims, as well as the custom rear axle shafts, so yeah I had to change something, the knuckles! Instead of those in the picture, I am going to run Chevy dana44 flat top knuckles, along with chevy small bearing spindles, calipers and caliper brackets. The ford rotor will fit on the small bearing chevy spindle, so I'll be able to keep that. Also you'll need chevy outer stub shafts if you want to attach the retaining clip. If that's not important to you, you can keep the ford stubs.

I have decided to go 4-link with coil overs and I have decided to keep rubber bushings on the lower links to reduce road noise and harshness. Here are is a picture of the lower links and track bar. There is a quarter laying next to the eye on the left. The bushings are supposed to be able to rotate 15 degrees, we will see.http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/752405120003.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/data/2/752405120010.jpg

Great, there goes my thunder. J/K Good luck, are you sure you don't want to lift higher for the flex with the coilovers?

have flex but, I want my suspension to move well in the existing space. Heighth is not the only way to flex. I am moving the steairng box forward and plan on removing alot of the front fender and fenderwell. Most of the engine cross member will be removed and whats left will be shifted 4" to the rear. I have a wrecked 92 x that I have been using to mock up the cross member whith and the only thing I am having trouble with is the starter. Iwill just keep cutting and welding till I get it right.

Sounds very interesting. Can't wait to see how it goes.

I have been looking for the completion parts for my axle using all ford parts, and not having a lot of luck. Well to my suprise when I came home last night a freind had dropped off a complete chevy 10 bolt/44 in my yard. In my parking spot of coarse. Well the problem is that it has the large spindles. I tried the TTB44 6 bolt spindles and they bolted right up, But the spindle allows the rotor to lay on the chevy brake backing plate. Ok. the question, Wich spindle do I need to make the ford rotor and hub work? I know it is a small bearing chevy spindle but is there more than one, or different years or what. And I need to thank Kris Guilbeaux for offering me his ford parts. Its a shame you didnt stop by Mobile on your way to Tellico, we boiled shrimp and crawfish that night just incase you stopped. And damn it was good:p .

Damn I didnt know you were going to do that. But truthfully we only made it as far as Louisiana that first day on the road because of problems with the tail lights not working.

Originally posted by ALYZ1FLR
Its a shame you didnt stop by Mobile on your way to Tellico, we boiled shrimp and crawfish that night just incase you stopped. And damn it was good:p .

We managed to eat your share too:eek: We will have to try it again another time.