We need another poll in here :D so I thought this might be a good one. so what gear ratio do you have. If you dont know there is a tag on the drivers door that has a code that can be looked up to see what it is or there will be a tag on the axle with a bunch of numbers on it one of them will look like this:

3 73 = 3.73 gears open diff
or
3L73 = 3.73 limited slip

Matt

Ask a Mod nicely and they can add another poll as to seperate 4.56 and 4.88s. I'd be interested in the numbers between the two.

3.94 :D

3.27's LS

Originally posted by NOTAJP
Ask a Mod nicely and they can add another poll as to seperate 4.56 and 4.88s. I'd be interested in the numbers between the two.

I already have a request in the sugestion forum for more chices but so far no luck. I only wanted a 135 choices for the next govoner of cali. :) Maybe you can help persuade them ;) The reason why I clumped those two together is beacuse the only people that will be running the 4.88 gears atleast with a 4x4 will have to have a dana 44 or 60 up front. No 4.88 are available for the dana 35 and I figured they were the closest together.

3:73 ls

4.10 open

I have 4.10 in the explorer and 4.88 in the ranger but the explorer is getting the 4.88 this winter :)

Added the extra poll for ya.:)

Oh and 4.56.

4.10s locked

Originally posted by RockRanger
. . . the only people that will be running the 4.88 gears atleast with a 4x4 will have to have a dana 44 or 60 up front. No 4.88 are available for the dana 35 and I figured they were the closest together.
Thats not true. The 2nd gen front is a regular rotation D35, so 4.88's are an option.

4.10 here<<<<< Well, not yet but within the next month or 2. As well as being fully locked :D

Thanks Derrick.

DAMN! The IFS Guys have a regular rotation D35 PIG? Are you sure? So 4.88 would be an option for 4wd dudes 95 and up........

I have 4.10's with 33's, ARB up front, L/S rear.
Works well, especially since mytruck is still daily and sees lots and lots of long trips on the highway......

4.56 would have been do'able and probably would have helped my OD alittle (OD is still useless up until 75 MPH or so)

3:73ls

my sig says it all.

Originally posted by Jefe
Thats not true. The 2nd gen front is a regular rotation D35, so 4.88's are an option.

well the second gens arent real offroad rigs so it doesnt matter :D :eek: :D ill have to remember that for next time.

Originally posted by 410Fortune
DAMN! The IFS Guys have a regular rotation D35 PIG? Are you sure? So 4.88 would be an option for 4wd dudes 95 and up........
Yup, I've had 4.88's for almost 18 months now. Of course I haven't had a front diff for last 8 of those months :p

Originally posted by RockRanger
well the second gens arent real offroad rigs so it doesnt matter :D :eek: :D ill have to remember that for next time.
:rolleyes:

4.56's They let me get the wheel speed up when I want, and with the auto it will still crawl decent. I wish they were 5.13's or even lower though.

My 4.88's are in a solid axle sitting under my ranger and that axle will soon be under my explorer so I guess it is an option for 1st gens :)

Mine has code 45, it's '91 XLT 4.0 AUTO... can anyone tell what it is?? Thanks

You have 3.55

Thanks!!!

The 91 has 3.55 open, but will be swapped for 4.56's when i finally get the lift under her. Oh, and a locker.

The 92 has 3.55 open, and since its my daily driver, the only thing im doing is adding LS to both axles.

Tried to find out what Differential Code 46 means at a previously posted link, but the page at that link was dead...so I'd like to know what I have too (my guess is 3:73)
thanks, 2med

Good guess...code 46 is a open 3.73.

csxtrainman,

Thanks for the confirmation on that Code 46. That's good to know.

My good guess was based on the way the X responds to a throttle increase. It has good, smooth power but not as wound up as a 4:11 would feel

2med

No problem 2Med, always glad to help.

I got a 1992 ford explorer the code is 46 on the drivers side door. Its got a 4" rancho lift and a 3" body lift. I just installed 33x12.5 thornbird super swampers tires. I noticed I've lost some power. Can you tell me the best gears to install for this kind of lift and tires and were I can go for the cheapest price on the parts. I already got somebody to install. I just need to know what kind of parts I need. And what is a locker? See my ride at the following address http://members.cardomain.com/oscarnec

csxtrainman It seems like you Know a lot about this help me out THANKS

thanx

big X= 5.13's locked f&r
junior stock 3.73's with l/s

I gotta go with 5.13s, since that is what came in the 3rd Member I got. Then again, that is just another purdy thing sitting in the utility room for now.:(

Just found out last night that my 95 that I just bought has the factory 3.73 Traction-Lok!! Yeee haa that will save me some money for a while. I am sure I will eventually want to step into something like a 4.10 or 4.56 when I go to 32's.

IN2FORD
Barry

3.73's soon to be 4.56's

Originally posted by white96x
3.73's soon to be 4.56's

Me too, and hopefully in the next few weeks.

3.55's. I hate them.

Good Ole 4.56's

I have no idea......whatever was stock in a 1992 Explorer Sport. :rolleyes:

4.56 done, what a difference.

3.55, I was told this is gonna be bad when I wanna put 32 (at least) on it....how bad is bad?

Oh crap! I have 5.13 front and 4.56 rear... does that mean I vote for 4.88's? :p

I voted for the wrong gear, 4.56... it should have been 5.13's.

ok, I have stock gears on a 1992 with 32s. what should I go to for an improvement in power but also optimal gas mileage?

I have recently regeared from 3.73 to 4.56 with 33-inch tires. The difference is amazing. It was a dog that wouldn't hunt with the stock gears. Now it is like a rocket. Of course, I have to shift more often and the top end is like 75 mph. I should have no problems if I want to go with 35s.

When you regear you should consider the ultimate tire size you plan to run.

whats the gas mileage like?

bump

My code says 41....what is that?

I dont' have a feel for gas mileage yet it has been cold and snowy, lots of warm up and and log gear high rpm. The 3.73 were about 12-mpg overall. I am hoping to get 15 to 16-mpg with the 4.56.

3.55 open:o

Guess i'm the only one with a 3.27 open.
Whats the best for around town driving gas mileage with a 4.0?

I'm running 5.13 gears front and rear now, but started with 4.56 gears. 5.13 with 36x12.50 feels great, when I had 35x12.50 I ran 4.56, and when I had 32x11.50 had 3.73 which felt sufficient. There it goes.:cool:

4.88's open in the front 44, and soon to have 4.88's lincoln locked when i swap the rear 44 in.

Chris

3.73 with powertrax unit

went from 3.27 open to 3.73 limited slip rear and lock rite front. I love it, but can't drive in 4x4 on the road in bad weather anymore.

Where is this code that ya'll are talking about? And, I thought you would have to have the same ratio front and rear? I have a 96Sport by the way with control trac. But I don't know what "control trac" means either............duh?

I have 3.27 in my 8.8 rear and in my dana 35.

Currently, I have 3.27 open, but shortly it will become either 4.10 or 4.56.

4.56's with lockers and 35's. 4.88s would have been better, but they work pretty well.

Where is this code that ya'll are talking about? And, I thought you would have to have the same ratio front and rear? I have a 96Sport by the way with control trac. But I don't know what "control trac" means either............duh?


It's on the sticker on the driver door.

3.73 l/s........ but after the lift and 33's it will have 4.56's

4.88s 01 sprorttrac w/35's

Don't just trust the door sticker, look at the tab on the diff cover. Many people switch out their rear ends. I had open 3.27's on my '94'...but picked up the 3.73 LS out of a '97' at a junkyard for $200 bucks :D

both of our explorers have d4 3.73 ls
our ranger has a 46 3.73 open
my toyota has an 8" 3.07 open
sister has a 5 speed civic vtec sohc

open 3.73's with 33 inch tires. going to either 4:10 or 4:56's with some sort of limited slip. any advice on what and where to get it is welcome. its daily driver but i cant get stuck when i go hunting in the backwoods(i don't have a winch, yet). it needs more low end, too sluggish. whats the deal with doing the rear gears and not the front? it doesn't sound right to me but ive heard it's fine, is this total bs?

3.73 with 35's... sucks but gets me there till i can afford gears.... just cant use overdrive till about 60-70 mph

open 3.73's with 33 inch tires. going to either 4:10 or 4:56's with some sort of limited slip. any advice on what and where to get it is welcome. its daily driver but i cant get stuck when i go hunting in the backwoods(i don't have a winch, yet). it needs more low end, too sluggish. whats the deal with doing the rear gears and not the front? it doesn't sound right to me but ive heard it's fine, is this total bs?


You'll have to do both axles. In an older truck that has hubs, you could run different ratios if you never put it in 4wd and locked the hubs in, but since you don't, you can't. Do a search on the Powetrax No slip unit, that's what several of us run and we are very pleased with them.

if you really cant afford to do both gear sets at the same time just pull the front drive shaft and run without it until you can get the front axle regeared.

5:13's with 35's and a Detroit locker. Can't get 4:88's for the reverse rotation Dana 35. Now that I have had them in there for awhile, I am glad I got the 5:13's. Mucho torque.

I had a no-slip in there but it slipped and blew on the Rubicon. Stupid thing got wedged in the carrier and had to be cut out with a air saw. Just spend the money the first time and get a Detroit.

I dunno what comes in my stock 98 limited? Anyone know (can't see the numbers under the truck on the axle) There's gotta be someone out there that knows? 3.73 maybe?

I have 3.73 l/s in my X running 32x11.5's with the auto tranny, My question is will 4.10 gears be good and where to buy good gears at for our X's. and maybe the powertrax no slip unit.?? Is it ok to run on the open road as mine has to stay a daily driver...

I started out with the stock 3.73 gears in my Ranger, open in front/LS in the rear. Then went to 4.56 and still open in front/LS rear and now i'm going to 4.88's w/a Detroit in the rear and still undecided on my front locker, probably an Eaton E-locker.

4.56 with en Eaton E-locker on the rear, open in front

I have 3.73 l/s in my X running 32x11.5's with the auto tranny, My question is will 4.10 gears be good and where to buy good gears at for our X's. and maybe the powertrax no slip unit.?? Is it ok to run on the open road as mine has to stay a daily driver...

4.10's would be a good choice for 32's/33's if you do mostly road driving. The power trax will be a good choice too, you'll not really notice it until really sharp curves. As for the gears, i bought mine from Randy's Ring and Pinion, one of our sponsors. Mine are Yukon gears, not the best made, but still good and affordable.

I would go with the 4.56 with 32/33" tires. That way, if you ever go bigger, you won't have to do another gear change unless you chose. Besides, 4.56 gears and 33" tires would put you right back to stock gear ratios. Its usually 4.10 with 31's and 4.56's with 33's.

I would caution you against using a no-slip. It costs around $400.00 and is not nearly as strong as a Detroit. I have had both and the no-slip clanged and pinged more than my Detroit. The Detroit costs about a hundred more, but it should never break, and seems to be quieter in my opinion. My no-slip gave out on the Rubicon.

im going to 32" soon so what should i gear to: 3.73 or 4.10 if im a daily road driver??

I'd go with 4.10s

I have 3.27 ls, but hope to one day get 4.10s or 4.56s

3.37 limited slip

4.88s locked up in my Dana 44 and 9 inch. The axles are fully assembled, but not under the truck yet, they will be later this month. :D

What size tires are you planning on running?

3.55 with 35's. soon to be 4.56 with 36's and straight axle in the front.

soon to be 4.56 with 36's and straight axle in the front.

I'd go with 4.88's Troy.

I'd go with 4.88's Troy.

I'd go with 5.13's for 36" tires.

I was wanting to go with some 4.88's but I am pretty sure the D44 I am going with has 4.56 with the Ox locker. I really don't want to have to regear front and rear. I would just have to do the rear if I left it at 4.56.

You are going to all that trouble and expense of putting in a SAS, then skimping on the gears? Gears are pretty cheap, especially if you already have to regear the rear to match. You are talking about a few hundred bucks for the front gear set.

I was quoted at 400. I mean yea I might do it later. But thats the thing I am spending on the money on a SAS. I mean the SAS with the D44 is going to be around 3grand. And then add 400 to that and that would just be like a month or 2 later for the swap. I can always regear both later on. I know I am going no bigger than 4.88. Cause mine is a DD and High Country and I both agree that 5.13 would be a bit extreme for just 36's. Why do you think go 5.13's?

I am running 4:10's with 35in nittos. The 4.0 sohc with upgrades pulls the 35's fine

That what I was thinking most everyone I know says 4.56 wil be just fine. I think I am going to go with the 4.56. I mean right now mine does fine but is lacking horsepower with the 35 and 3.55. It does fine wheeling just ask anyone who went to Tellico. Thanks man.

I suggested going with the 5.13's cause that is what I have with my 35" tires. It pulls great on the street, and works awsome in the dirt.

It does fine wheeling just ask anyone who went to Tellico.


Well a couple of times i asked some of the guys if you were in low range because it really sounded like you were in high climbing over those rocks.

I suggested going with the 5.13's cause that is what I have with my 35" tires. It pulls great on the street, and works awsome in the dirt.

What kind of fuel milage are you getting? I have 4.56's on my 35s and have no complaints, i'd just like to have a bit lower. I got about 14, when i drove it daily.

Just personal opinion that i wouldn't go with 5.13's. Of course i've never been in anything that low, so i really don't know how it drives.

I get 9.....Yea thats true but I mean it gets the job done...Oh yea the RPM's get up there sometimes thats for sure. What ya think about 4.56 and 36x14.50 thats what i am looking at?

I totally forgot he was going with 36's Brian, sorry!

If you're going with 14.50's also, then you won't get much better then what you have now i'd imagine.

Hmmmm. 5.13 thats really low. I am not sure. I think I might just go with 4.88. Do yall guys think it would be that bad with the 36x14.50. Opinions remeber DD and it gets driven every day for school and stuff? I don't really care about the gas mileage I just want SOME of my power back.

Well, if you went with 35" tires and 4.88's you would be back to near stock gear ratios.

My gas milage sucks, but I wasn't going for milage, I was going for off-road ability. I seem to get about 12-14 miles per gallon on the highway. It wasn't much better before I went big, when I had 4.10's and 32's.

So with the 36's and 4.88 and 5.13 what ya think gas mileage would be like. I have air intake and exhaust as far as engine mods. I am looking for it to be good all around and 9 MPG anything could make it better.

Dude, once you put the big tires on there, nothing is going to help your gas intake. The more you make a vehicle off-road worthy, the worse it is on the street.

Well just keep it around the same. I don't want to lose any if possible.

I have a '92 ford Explorer 4x4 problems in the automatic front axle not disengaging or making noise in 4 wheel mode i'm thinking about swapping a axle from '91 ford ranger providing the gear ratios match are the axle the same.

Is the noise coming from up front near or at the axle or further back by the T-case? If its up front most likely you have a blown auto hub and you don't need to waste your time swapping in a whole axle.
Do yourself a favor and ditch those auto hubs and get the Warn manual hubs.
Although not bulletproof they are much stronger than stock and even if that isnt the root of your problem its still a good idea to change them out.
You could also have a shift motor problem on your T-case since its not disengaging.

I would sure check the auto hubs first....

I have 4.10's with a posi out of a 94 lightning in the rear of the 4wd, Dana L/S also 4.10's in the front. 3.73 L/s in the V-8 2wd. 4.10's with L/S in my 94 Lightning not that that one counts.

3.73 ls

We need another poll in here :D so I thought this might be a good one. so what gear ratio do you have. If you dont know there is a tag on the drivers door that has a code that can be looked up to see what it is or there will be a tag on the axle with a bunch of numbers on it one of them will look like this:

3 73 = 3.73 gears open diff
or
3L73 = 3.73 limited slip

Matt





I have a 2002 explorer sport. The tag on the door says Axle 46. Which axle is this? I believe I am supposed to have limited slip. Do you know where I can find info on how to decode this?

Thanks!
No1Eman

I dont have the codes in front of me. I have always taken it off the diff tag. www.therangerstation.com might have the list for axle codes there.

I am in the process of 5.13's and 38's.

update:
I now have 4.10's a Trac-Lok up front, and in the process of getting a LockRight for the rear

i've heard 4.10's were not available in the first gen expolorers from the factory.. can anyone tell me if this is true?

4.10 was not a option in the first gens...
First gen axle codes are ---
41 = open 3.27 only in manual tranny
43 = open 3.08 only in auto
45 = open 3.55 man and auto
D4 = trac lok 3.73 man and auto

This is out of my owners manual.....
window sticker says on mine "performance axle" $252.00
"trailor tow package" $106.00

yes, my gears are aftermarket

i've heard 4.10's were not available in the first gen expolorers from the factory.. can anyone tell me if this is true?

Not in explorers but were available in 4cyl rangers. I found a 4cyl ranger that had 4.10 and that is what I put in my ranger.

4.10 was not a option in the first gens...
First gen axle codes are ---
41 = open 3.27 only in manual tranny
43 = open 3.08 only in auto
45 = open 3.55 man and auto
D4 = trac lok 3.73 man and auto

This is out of my owners manual.....
window sticker says on mine "performance axle" $252.00
"trailor tow package" $106.00


:eek: HUH I have 3.27's and an auto tranny. :eek:

But what id like for best fulle and torq for 33's are 3.73 that would place me back to stock I alredy get 22 mpg and I have 31's stock 3.27 gearing. I can hold my own off road to. The other day I towed out a full sized van and trailer. Still have my OD to. Wonder if its cause I make my own octain boost? Or my whole maid intake screw paying 100 for a KKM. Less than half the price and I pass emishens leagly. Gusse I shuld update my profile but im getting a more stuff soon so ill update l8er. I dont forsee my self going any bigger dont want a lader to get in my truck or work on it anyway.

Im running 4.56 gears L/S rear, open up front.

4.56 L/S rear

3.27 front haha. work in progress.

I have a 92 X with 3.27 gears and 31" BFG tires. I do hwy driving all the time.Where can i get a set of 3.73 from for the front and rear????Ranger's??????other X's?

I have a 92 X with 3.27 gears and 31" BFG tires. I do hwy driving all the time.Where can i get a set of 3.73 from for the front and rear????Ranger's??????other X's?

Yeah you could get them Ranger's or other Explorers from them at the yard or off e-bay the cool thing about getting them from the yard is that you could get a free lsd thrown in and sometimes off e-bay but if you dont want an lsd you could always buy a gear locker.

Im assuming you plan to get 33's. If not you should get 3.55's it would place you back to the stock raito if you dont get 33's and stay with your 31's. You will have ampal torq if you keep 31's on with 3.73 but on the highway it would run at a bit higher rpm. You would not have the best mpg. Even now that you have 31's at stock grearing you use a bit more gas to get them rolling but once you do you have lower rpm on the high way and the inersha will even out the gas usage a bit and besides it runs at the 3.08 raito which is with in the first gen geering paramiters. Basicly if you like to run at the best average rating for gas and torq ill show you a table. This is if you have or had 3.27 gearing and an auto trany.

Even mix: / Torq:
31 / 3.55 / 3.73
33 / 3.73 / 4.10
35 / 4.10 / 4.56
37 / 4.56 / 5.13
40 / 5.13 / if you swap a dana 44 5.38

So you think the 3.73 will be too much for the freeway with the 31" tires. I was looking to get a little more go off line and faster accell on the freeway.Yes the X takes a little more to get her going right now.I had a set of stock tires on her before and she had good gas milage then,but when i put the 31's on her i noticed it was harder to accellerate and keep going at a cruise on the freeway.the reason i did the 31's is so it would look good with the 2" budget lift (shackles and F-150 spacers).

Do you mean numericaly to high? If so I don't think so IMOP. If you think it's sluggish now getting it going, try something numericaly lower and see what happens.

So you think the 3.73 will be too much for the freeway with the 31" tires. I was looking to get a little more go off line and faster accell on the freeway.Yes the X takes a little more to get her going right now.I had a set of stock tires on her before and she had good gas milage then,but when i put the 31's on her i noticed it was harder to accellerate and keep going at a cruise on the freeway.the reason i did the 31's is so it would look good with the 2" budget lift (shackles and F-150 spacers).

Well if you dont plan on getting 33's and you want best torq and gas. I would recomend you regear to 3.55 that will place you back to the stock ratio that you had with the stock tires. This should give you better take off. I have 31's (no lift) and still have 3.27's that gives me a ratio of 3.05 - 3.06 depending if you round to the nearest tenth. I have good take off and millage but not as good as it could be I also have enof torq to climb but I could have more. As for crusising my crusise controle works fine. What PSI do you have in your tires the inerta from the tires should keep you at speed as their bigger they dont desell as easily. 35 PSI is best for millage on the freeway. The less serfice airea you have on the road the less drag you will have. 20's - 6 PSI is good to off roading depending on terain and condition the more serfice airea the better the grip. Infact as long as you apply the gas up a hill you sholdnt slow by much. When I have cruse on it dont slow up hills the times I do the wind is high and to my front. I hope this helps you out.

according to drivetrain.com I have 4.56, but the Explorer Forum says its 3.73 Anybody know which one is accurate?

according to drivetrain.com I have 4.56, but the Explorer Forum says its 3.73 Anybody know which one is accurate?

4.56 stock? no 3.73 sounds right

4.10 came in some v6 broncos and 4 cylinder rangers.

4.10 was available from the factory on All Rangers, BII's, and Explorer's.

4.56 was also available for many years (up to 94?)

the most common Explorer ratio is 3.73
the most common Ranger and BII ratio was 3.5something.

You could order 4.10 from the factory, it has nothing to do with which vehicle came with what, it has to do with what gear ratios Ford/Spicer offered for the D28, D35, 7.5 and 8.8

drivetrain.com cannot tell you what ratio you have? the door sticker and metal tag on your differential will tell you what Ford stuffed in there

drivetrain.com cannot tell you what ratio you have? the door sticker and metal tag on your differential will tell you what Ford stuffed in there

Yup.

3.55 open (gas mileage SUCKS)...would it be advantageous for me to put in some 3.73s? i can get a set for free is why. Would they even help my mpg much for the cost of install? or should i just get some 4.10s? (trying to help my mpg as much as possible im only getting about 11-12 mpg and thats with granny driving) Mods in sig...

4.10 with 31's would be ideal :) truck auto or 5 speed?

3.55 open (gas mileage SUCKS)...would it be advantageous for me to put in some 3.73s? i can get a set for free is why. Would they even help my mpg much for the cost of install? or should i just get some 4.10s? (trying to help my mpg as much as possible im only getting about 11-12 mpg and thats with granny driving) Mods in sig...

What tiyp of driving do u do?
and whats ur gear ratio now?

gears are not expensive BTW, its the install that is.

Good question asked right there, because choosing between 3.73 and 4.10 for your 31" tires depends alot on what kind of driving you plan to do, what transmission you have, and if you plan to go with larger tires/more lift in the future.

gears are not expensive BTW, its the install that is.

Good question asked right there, because choosing between 3.73 and 4.10 for your 31" tires depends alot on what kind of driving you plan to do, what transmission you have, and if you plan to go with larger tires/more lift in the future.

yup if he dose mostly hwy and had 3.27 stock he would have a 3.6's now just having non stock tirers roghtly 2 sizes up frome stock. that would actualy give you mostly hwy milage.

I beleave the first gen explorer had 3.08's for hwy stock, 3.27 multy perpous (balanced use), and 3.55 for towing. I bleave the 3.73's where mostly found on the EB modle since that was the ruged explorer.

i have an automatic 4 door, and i might go up to 33s after a 2 or 3 inch bl, but not for a year or so. I do alot of city driving some highway driving and a little offroading. I just want to get out of this 12mpg slump haha

you can choose between 4.10 and 4.56 depending on how you drive. 4.10 = better milage for now, 4.56 would be better once you go 33's, but 4.10 are still workable.

i have an automatic 4 door, and i might go up to 33s after a 2 or 3 inch bl, but not for a year or so. I do alot of city driving some highway driving and a little offroading. I just want to get out of this 12mpg slump haha

ok if u want blaenced proformance on 31's i recomend 3.55's on 33's 3.73's.
if u want torq and dont whant to hear your truck yell at u to much on the hwy. I sujest 3.73's on the 31's and 4.10 on the 33's this would give you a gear ratio of rufly 4.10 that is a good general perpous ratio for towing/offroading and driving.

is it worth it to regear twice? alos how would 410s do with my 31s? good mileage? about how much am i looking at for labor, the gears are free

is it worth it to regear twice? alos how would 410s do with my 31s? good mileage? about how much am i looking at for labor, the gears are free

You will have monster torq like having 4.56' and 33's but you will suffer in milage the more torq the higher rpm the more you burn in gas the lower the rpm the better the gas milage. The key is to find the balance to give you low rpm enogh power to get the tiyers moving and have good torq off road. To low the ratio the harder it is to turn the tiyers to hi the ratio the more your engin reves. More rpm also means hoter engine and thuse more wair.

is it worth it to regear twice?

Not worth it, unless you have $1500+ to blow regearing twice...

Not worth it, unless you have $1500+ to blow regearing twice...

That depends on vairiabls.

so 410s on 31s will hurt my mileage...whats this about people getting 20mpg on 35s and stuff...i only get 11-12 ha

what kind of prices should i be looking at per axle? for labor

so 410s on 31s will hurt my mileage...whats this about people getting 20mpg on 35s and stuff...i only get 11-12 ha

Well they probibly have 4.10's or 4.56's 4.10's place the ratio at 3.27
4.56's place it at 3.55 thats how they have good milage.

You will have monster torq like having 4.56' and 33's but you will suffer in milage the more torq the higher rpm the more you burn in gas the lower the rpm the better the gas milage. The key is to find the balance to give you low rpm enogh power to get the tiyers moving and have good torq off road. To low the ratio the harder it is to turn the tiyers to hi the ratio the more your engin reves. More rpm also means hoter engine and thuse more wair.

i dunno, im runing 32"s on 4.56 and im getting gas mileage thats unheard of. but i also dont use the highway and dont normally go above 60-65 mph

what kind of prices should i be looking at per axle? for labor

Around $500 - 600. If I recall thats what my dad charged but id have to ask to be shurr.

i dunno, im runing 32"s on 4.56 and im getting gas mileage thats unheard of. but i also dont use the highway and dont normally go above 60-65 mph

Im gaging for 75 - 80 hwy. Not 55 - 65 free way. But an rpm range below 3000.

Also im shooting to have the ratio stay at factory 3.27 not above or below by much. Since a ratio of 3.27 is more balenced in my op for gas and torq.

It placed the rpm low but not to low. You have power to move the tiers tow and go offroad.

i dont know what i have....its stock, what gears should i get? im gonna most likely run 33's

i dont know what i have....its stock, what gears should i get? im gonna most likely run 33's

I would get 3.73's that will place your rpm at around 2500 at 75mph that would give you a ratio of 3.27.

for 31's 3.55 would place the rpm around 2660 at 75 mph and a ratio of 3.27.

i dunno, im runing 32"s on 4.56 and im getting gas mileage thats unheard of. but i also dont use the highway and dont normally go above 60-65 mph

that gives you a ratio of around 4.13. Like I said b 4 4.10 is a good general ratio for tow and offroad not the best on gas but ok. My dad sess having a 4.10 ratio is a general perpouse ratio but im lening to better gas and a bit more balence. So I like to have a total ratio of 3.27 on the explorer. It mostly depends on perpouse I use mine as a dayly. So I like to have better gas.
4.10 is better torq. When I do my gear choices I pick between having a total ratio of 3.07 for hwy, 3.27 for balence, 3.55 for towing, 4.10 for off roading.

I tend to leen on having an end ratio of 3.27.

Im gaging for 75 - 80 hwy. Not 55 - 65 free way. But an rpm range below 3000.

Also im shooting to have the ratio stay at factory 3.27 not above or below by much. Since a ratio of 3.27 is more balenced in my op for gas and torq.

It placed the rpm low but not to low. You have power to move the tiers tow and go offroad.

yeah for me 55 mph in OD is ~2300 rpms. which makes 65 mph ~ 2800rpm

with 33"s that would make things a lil bit better. i plan on running 33"s, and maybe 35"s so 4.56 is great for me in the long haul. 4.10 would be much better on gas, but if your like me, and going over 70 isnt that big of a deal then 4.56 is probably your passion. You would love it, getting that kind of take off and torque from the 4.0 is spine tingling.

that gives you a ratio of around 4.13. Like I said b 4 4.10 is a good general ratio for tow and offroad not the best on gas but ok. My dad sess having a 4.10 ratio is a general perpouse ratio but im lening to better gas and a bit more balence.

4.10s and 31"s would be very nice. i dont think gas milage is going to suffer unless you run ++80 in an explorer a lot. Esspecially if you are use to 3.73 on the stock 29 in tire.

4.10's on 33"s would be like having 3.27 stock. 4.56 on 33's would be like having 3.73 stock. it depends on what you like

with my mix of driving should i wait on the 410s or just go with the 373s, what kind of mpg should i expect with both city/highway? and i started off with 355s

4.10s and 31"s would be very nice. i dont think gas milage is going to suffer unless you run ++80 in an explorer a lot. Esspecially if you are use to 3.73 on the stock 29 in tire.

4.10's on 33"s would be like having 3.27 stock. 4.56 on 33's would be like having 3.73 stock. it depends on what you like

3.73's and 33's is like having a ratio of 3.27
4.10's and 33's is like having a ratio of 4.10
4.56's and 33's is like having a ratio of 5.19

3.73's and 33's is like having a ratio of 3.27
4.10's and 33's is like having a ratio of 4.10

realistically its not (what you would want). Mathmatically yep, works in theory.

3.73 and 33"s is like having 3.08. maybe less... serious 4.10 is the highest you are going to want to go with 33"s, 4.33 would be IDEAL gas milage/power.

i ran 32"s on 3.27... even the gas mileage was horrible. I get better milage with 4.56

what you guys need to think about...

when you put bigger tires on your stock ratio your engine is going to strain a lot more; strain = excessive gas consumption. Putting a lower ratio in works exponentially, you put bigger tires and you're not only getting a higher output ratio you are also putting more weight on the drivetrain.

The gears only make up for the ratio adjustment. the engine has to make up for the rest. going a step up in ratio helps offsets the added weight of the tires, to where it seems like the engine is working 'stock again.'

but only running 31x10.5"s street tire you wont really notice. 32x11.50"s MT's you will begin to notice big time.

The fastest i run it is about 70-75 would 410s on 31s hurt me then or would it still be ok

The fastest i run it is about 70-75 would 410s on 31s hurt me then or would it still be ok

you would be perfect. you would love it, you would wish you went with 4.33 or even 4.56

are you putting those gears in yourself?

the 4.0 is a dog. its not going to get great gas milage, nor is is going to ever have a lot of power. do what you can to please yourself.

I dont know how, im trying to find somewhere cheaper in charlotte to do it....everywhere wants like 350-400 per axle... :(

I wish i knew how to do it, or knew someone that did, that would make it easier ;)

I dont know how, im trying to find somewhere cheaper in charlotte to do it....everywhere wants like 350-400 per axle... :(

yeah 4wheelparts on south bullie told me they wanted $1400 bucks to do both front and year

that afternoon i spend 6 hours reading up on installing my own gears. haha

wait did you do yours? wanna do mine too? lol

realistically its not (what you would want). Mathmatically yep, works in theory.

3.73 and 33"s is like having 3.08. maybe less... serious 4.10 is the highest you are going to want to go with 33"s, 4.33 would be IDEAL gas milage/power.

i ran 32"s on 3.27... even the gas mileage was horrible. I get better milage with 4.56

what you guys need to think about...

when you put bigger tires on your stock ratio your engine is going to strain a lot more; strain = excessive gas consumption. Putting a lower ratio in works exponentially, you put bigger tires and you're not only getting a higher output ratio you are also putting more weight on the drivetrain.

The gears only make up for the ratio adjustment. the engine has to make up for the rest. going a step up in ratio helps offsets the added weight of the tires, to where it seems like the engine is working 'stock again.'

but only running 31x10.5"s street tire you wont really notice. 32x11.50"s MT's you will begin to notice big time.


Hmm I am calculating this but what type of trany do you have and whats your milage?

I have the stock 4R55e or whatever, (i think) and i get about 210 miles per tank or something like that came out to be like 12mpg or something

Hmm right now I get about 22 mpg. I have a ratio of about 3.06 till I regear my self.

O and I have a A4LD.

Im runing 31's my stock ratio. I plan on going 33's no higher.

wait did you do yours? wanna do mine too? lol

haha to be honest i wont touch your front end. im no professional, i work on my own truck but i cant be liable for someone elses.

yr rear 8.8 shoot man you get the tools, case of bud heavy, man i ill be up there help ya out. We'll need a press, i took my pinion somewhere to get the pinion bearing pressed on, costed $35 for half hour labor.

main things about doing your own gears, i ended up paying more (for tools and all the other jazz) then if i would have gotten it done somewhere.

whats your stock ratio? it could be realitivly easy.

what the crap...how do you guys do this, i only got 225 miles per tank when i was bone stock......this poor mpg issue is killing me

I have 4.10s on 31" tires.. and i get like 14mpg city.. Im sure if i worked it right i could get 18mpg on the highway.. I drive mostly city but ocasionally i go offroad or drive the freeway.. I'm thinking of bumping up to 32 or 33" tires, but i think the initial strain of getting started from a stop would offset the higher speed gains.

Hmm I am calculating this but what type of trany do you have and whats your milage?

5-speed M5R1

last fill up was with 17.6 gallons at 306 miles

17.35 miles per gallon? something like that.

what the crap...how do you guys do this, i only got 225 miles per tank when i was bone stock......this poor mpg issue is killing me

Hmm well I maintan my truck. I do every thing. I even make my own octain boost.

what the crap...how do you guys do this, i only got 225 miles per tank when i was bone stock......this poor mpg issue is killing me

Seafoaming might help, driving style has a lot to do with it. But i really do dog my truck around and still get the same results.



I have 4.10s on 31" tires.. and i get like 14mpg city.. Im sure if i worked it right i could get 18mpg on the highway.. I drive mostly city but ocasionally i go offroad or drive the freeway.. I'm thinking of bumping up to 32 or 33" tires, but i think the initial strain of getting started from a stop would offset the higher speed gains.

4.10s and 33"s, even 35"s is completely dooable. Its all in how you drive it

33"s and 4.10 would be fine. you might be more comfortable with 4.33, 4.56 for that extra UMPH to get it going.

5-speed M5R1

last fill up was with 17.6 gallons at 306 miles

17.35 miles per gallon? something like that.

OHHH so thats you ur trany dosnt slip as much as an auto dose. I take that in to acct. as well. Also I have a device called a torq converter lol j/k no offence but that also makes my drive train act diferently form a manual.

i have maintained my truck meticulously over the years. my dad bought it new in 95 and we have taken GOOD care of it since.

i have maintained my truck meticulously over the years. my dad bought it new in 95 and we have taken GOOD care of it since.

Hmm well you said you have 3.55's and 31's right? Do you have any vacume leeks?

not that i know of, whats a sure fire way to find out? and i need to replace my plugs and wires, that should help right?

not that i know of, whats a sure fire way to find out? and i need to replace my plugs and wires, that should help right?

spray WD-40 and see if any looks like it gets sucked in.

if you dont hear any excessive sucking noises comming from the engine you probably dont have any. Vaccume leaks some times make the truck sound like a fregging jet, and usually is accompanied by a high idle ~1000+ rpm

plugs and wires might help. Cleaning MAF and IAC can help out.

Try Seafoam, that might get you up to 250-275 miles a tank.

not that i know of, whats a sure fire way to find out? and i need to replace my plugs and wires, that should help right?

Umm replace the plugs and wiers if needed I havent had to for a few years. Also trany fluid filter oil. Umm as for detecting leeks well thay reqiers a few things to do it. I prefer to do a propain leen on my cars to make it emmishens legal and to find leeks you could do the same but. Im not in you area so I dont no whare will will get the tools needed.

spray WD-40 and see if any looks like it gets sucked in.

if you dont hear any excessive sucking noises comming from the engine you probably dont have any. Vaccume leaks some times make the truck sound like a fregging jet, and usually is accompanied by a high idle ~1000+ rpm

plugs and wires might help. Cleaning MAF and IAC can help out.

Try Seafoam, that might get you up to 250-275 miles a tank.

hahahah yeah thats familear to me. My idle actualy drops realy low almost staling.

Or just try cleening the maf be 4 buying a new 1. With some carb cleener.

Do not use WD 40 it will slowly eat ur hose! Its a high carosive if I recall and dwars in moyster and can cause rust.

sometimes after a long higway drive in the hot heat (about 175 miles in 95+ degree heat) the truck will have sorta high RPMs after i stop but leave it running, could this be bad?

sometimes after a long higway drive in the hot heat (about 175 miles in 95+ degree heat) the truck will have sorta high RPMs after i stop but leave it running, could this be bad?

I bleave that is cause the computer gets comfertable at staying at a set rpm. Also it has to ajust for elvation. I drove to phonix with cuse all the way and when I hit a light their I felf the brake and herd the rpm so I shut off then on the truck and it reprogramed thats how to fix that.

O and the hoter it is the less dence the air that could also afect you.

If this is not ur case ill have to talk to my dad since he has much more Exp. In the Automotive feald.

ok thanks.

ok thanks.

NP hope ive helped you out.

some day you come out hear ill hook you up with some of my octain boost lol makes the truck sound like musil car. I think my octain boost up the rating in the 100 range. If only I knew how to post audio lol.

whats it made of? wanna ship some? lol ;)

whats it made of? wanna ship some? lol ;)

HAHA I dont no how lol and besids I dont think I can its flamibol.

yea, i can go buy some and see if it helps

Yeah it should help with the mpg.

the number on the door tag for axle says 46. drivetrain.com says that code means 4.56, but the spec section on this forum list it as 3.73

drivetrain.com cannot tell you what ratio you have? the door sticker and metal tag on your differential will tell you what Ford stuffed in there

I checked the metal tag on the diff. and it says 3.73... Thanks guys

omg...

?

Yes??? This is god :rolleyes: j/k lol :D Whats up?

If you dont know there is a tag on the drivers door that has a code that can be looked up to see what it

Matt


Where is the tag or what would the code look like. The tags on my diff don't say which gear ratio I have. Thanks.

Where is the tag or what would the code look like. The tags on my diff don't say which gear ratio I have. Thanks.
On the drivers door, read his post again :rolleyes:

And jesus this thread is old.
4.10s locked front and rear. Soon 4.56s with an 8.8 out back.

Axle code 42: 4.10 open.

Other than a little higher tow capacity I have no clue what to use this capability for. :scratch:

I have stock 3.55 gearing in my differential with stock tires. I was wondering what would be the cons of upgrading to 31" tires? Would my engine power and mpg significantly drop?

Most all my driving is city and I still need to be able to cruse at 80mph on the highway. From what I understand, 31" tires would help my highway mpg but hurt my city mpg, is my logic correct?

If I upgrade to 31" tires, how much weight capacity would you think I would lose in towing ability?

Thanks.

In percentage, you would loose this much "towing ability":
[ old tire diameter ] - [ new tire diameter ] / [old tire diameter] * 100

This number will be negative since you're effectively loosing torque as you upgrade to larger tire diameters w/o changing axle ratio.

I have stock 3.55 gearing in my differential with stock tires. I was wondering what would be the cons of upgrading to 31" tires? Would my engine power and mpg significantly drop?

Most all my driving is city and I still need to be able to cruse at 80mph on the highway. From what I understand, 31" tires would help my highway mpg but hurt my city mpg, is my logic correct?

If I upgrade to 31" tires, how much weight capacity would you think I would lose in towing ability?

Thanks.
It's likely to hurt it on both fronts, added rotating mass and reduction of torque usually will more than cancel out any gains by from lower RPMs. IMHO 3.73 is the minimum gears for 31s, 4.10s preferred.

3.73ls... soon to be locked.

LS 3.73's,,, both ends,,

4.10 detroit rear and true trac front! with 32's

so 3.73 ideal for daily driver specially freeways and 4.10 would give me more rpms, on a 2000 x with 31

4:56---Locked rear--Open front

4.88 front
4.86 rear

Hope that is a typo. guess there is not that much difference but still would feel like the rear is pushin the front, or atleast causing a binding.

Hope that is a typo. guess there is not that much difference but still would feel like the rear is pushin the front, or atleast causing a binding.

Nope not a typo. And you can have upto a 5% difference between gears. That is only a .05% difference. and the front will pull the rear, not the other way around.

4.88 front
4.86 rear


I agree with the difference, but NOT the front will pull the rear.


The rear will have completed a revolution when the rear drive shaft turns 4.86 and the front will have to turn .02 more revs befor the front makes a full turn. So the rear will be "pushin" the front.

Also read that some chrysler products come out with 4.10 front and 4.11 rear.... Front helps pull to keep vehicle "track" properly when in 4x4.


My '79 bronco come with 4.09 front and 4.10 in rear. front tires will turn just a hair faster.

I agree with the difference, but NOT the front will pull the rear.


The rear will have completed a revolution when the rear drive shaft turns 4.86 and the front will have to turn .02 more revs befor the front makes a full turn. So the rear will be "pushin" the front.

Also read that some chrysler products come out with 4.10 front and 4.11 rear.... Front helps pull to keep vehicle "track" properly when in 4x4.


My '79 bronco come with 4.09 front and 4.10 in rear. front tires will turn just a hair faster.

Yea I had to run it through my head again. You are right, but .02 revolutions you wont notice. Specially on my truck which is trail only.

Cool glad you got it...

Before I traded in my 91 Explorer Sport (used as a scrap metal hauling rig for the shop) under the Cash for Clunkers (got $4500 for a $5 truck) I had 3.73's. She was good for 5 years before that though....

i know this is an old post but i have 4:10s limited slip in my 99 sport. i have 31s now but got some 33s to mount today what do you think my gas mileage will be like?