|
View Full Version : ps fluid leak out of tie rod jwrezz 11-03-2003, 10:09 PM I have fluid coming from a crack in the boot at the end of the inner tierod. I saw a seal kit from Ford Parts Network. Is this for that? Or do I need a whole new rack? I gotta order either one on Tues, don't hold back on the replies!! Thanx, John Ray Lobato 11-03-2003, 10:47 PM I'm pertty sure that you can get away with replacing the seal. Rhett 11-04-2003, 01:45 PM That's probably not ps fluid, it's probably GL-4/5 lube grease that's in the tie rod end. As long as the tie rod end hasn't been dry for too long, it should be ok to just replace the seal. If you get a lot of slop and play after that, then the tie rod end is probably worn. Tat2dExploder 11-04-2003, 02:04 PM get new rack... i had the same exact problem... new inner tie rods come right on the rack. i paid 125 at carquest Opera House 11-04-2003, 02:30 PM Cost me $70 just to get a pair of tie rod ends. I'm on that illusive front end quest. Started with lower ball joints, next will be half shafts, bearing hubs, maybe upper ball joints. It never seems to end. 410Fortune 11-04-2003, 02:40 PM Holey Moley I will keeep my TTB thank you very much...... jwrezz 11-04-2003, 09:06 PM Oh, no, it's ps fluid. My reservoir is 4" down a day. I ordered the rack from Auto Zone. Life time warr. I checked on line even Ford Parts Network, all from $110-$250. Auto zone had it in stock, I got it for $109, +$90 refundable core. Actually $116 w/ tax. Ya know all in all axle shafts were easy and cheap, ball joints were cheap, but I needed help from my mechanic, and this job seems easy. All this came at about 95-105k miles w/ a lot of trail beating! I'll do it every 100k, no problem! You can all keep your TTB's! Tat2dExploder 11-04-2003, 09:29 PM i'll warn ya its kinda rough getting the old rack out of there and the new rack in there... but all in all isn't too bad of a job jwrezz 11-04-2003, 10:04 PM How's it really done? I've looked at diagrams, and at the truck itself. Remove the sway bar, unbolt the rack, disconnect the tie rod ends, disconnect the hoses, disconnect the steering shaft remove old rack, put in new one, re-assemble. Please if there's any thing more, let me know. Thanx much, John 410Fortune 11-04-2003, 10:29 PM TTB = off road capable. IFS = not as capable :) Eaither one is problematic when beat on, I was just joking dude, IFS = better ride on the street, both have their good points and bad points and actually $116 is cheaper then I paid for my steering box alone, not to mention I am on my second set of Dana 35 beams, new balljoints, pitman arm, tie rods, spindles galore, wheell bearings, custom axcle shafts, calipers, pads, 4.10 gears, ARB, etc etc etc..... The IFS is great, but CV joints, rack and pinion, A arms, etc are just much harder to work on then the TTB..... jwrezz 11-04-2003, 11:37 PM I know you were just kidding. I'm more than proud of my rig. As I'm sure you are too. It's all good. One thing about independent suspensions though. Hummers got em! On all 4, just like the new 'sploders! Just get that gear driven, dropped down hub to work w/ ours, and we're set! Adios, JR |