A/C problems - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®

Ish man · 05-07-2005, 06:21 AM

I noticed several people having prolems with their A/C. My A/C is one of the ones that blows only on high and 60 degrees. I also noticed a ticking sound near the floorboard when I first start my car. Also does anyone's A/C turn off when the wipers are on intermittent? Any suggestions? Thanks.

awpstl · 05-07-2005, 02:22 PM

My a/c only works on 60 degrees + MAX A/C has to be pushed in also

Ish man · 05-07-2005, 03:58 PM

Did you find any ideas on the problem? I heard that it could be some realy or resitor in the engine compartment. I jsut have no idea which one. Let me know if you find anything. Thanks

TTG · 05-07-2005, 08:28 PM

The resistor is bad. Most of the info on the boards points to the resistor being where the relay is, but that is not the case. The resistor is near the back of the engine bay on the passenger side under th blower motor. They get all corroded and die, replaced mine and my AC blows nice now.

TPLYNCH · 05-09-2005, 02:14 PM

Fan only blows on Hi = Blown Resistor

A/C only works on MAX = Broken Blend Door

*gijoecam* · 05-09-2005, 05:44 PM

Indeed, here's what happens to the resistors and the connector:

I thought I had pics of the repair, but I guess not. They're on the computer at home.

The repair costs $30 in parts. $15 for the resistor, $15 for the pig-tail. I soldered and shrink-tubed the connectors, then wrapped it with eiectrical tape. I injected some polyeurethane sealant into the outside of the connector where the wires go in to keep the elements out, and injected the connector side with dielectric grease to do the same. It's working great now!

-Joe

Ish man · 05-10-2005, 03:09 AM

Wow that is messed up!!! The good thing is that it did not cost you too much. Did the Ford dealer had it in stock or did you have to wait? I would hate to tear my A/C apart then wait for the resistor. I guess I'm calling my dealer tomorrow to see what they got. Thanks for the pictures...good shot of the part numbers. I'll let you know what I find.

*gijoecam* · 05-10-2005, 07:28 AM

Most stealerships should have them in stock. They're a common failure item for fleets, so they're one of the few pig-tails Ford made available separately. Poor design if you ask me... they left all the connections completely exposed to the elements. That's just askin for trouble unless you live in the desert.

-Joe

section8joe · 05-10-2005, 08:09 AM

my ac kicks on and off every few seconds. Do you think this might be my problem?

*gijoecam* · 05-10-2005, 09:23 AM

Doubt it. Short-cycling of the compressor is usually indicative of a low freon charge. You'll need to have the system leak-tested and re-charged to fix it.

-Joe

section8joe · 05-10-2005, 11:26 AM

what part of the AC would be leaking?

*gijoecam* · 05-10-2005, 11:52 AM

Any part.

section8joe · 05-10-2005, 01:56 PM

how can i find out what is leaking? im sorry i don't know much about trucks.

**Glacier991** · 05-11-2005, 01:31 AM

Check out the useful threads on AC. In order, leak points are usually... valves for recharging HI or LOW... Accumulator, garter joints with O rings and compressor seal. DIY dye checking is about your own option... shops have "sniffers.

Great pic posts Gi !

Ish man · 05-13-2005, 12:23 AM

Okay I don't have the resistor in my truck...not at least I can see. I did find that I have one of those A/C controllers (same loacation as the resistor in other posts)...costs about 150 bucks from the Ford stealership. One of the good things is that I found an easier way to get to the controller. I went from underneath through the right wheel well. Removed 4 bolts and 4 screws...took about 5 minutes with an air ratchet and phillips screwdriver. A lot easier than removing the windshield washer and radiator resevoir. Just something I wanted to add in case anyone else was going to replace this part...and from what I can see, there will be others.

Ish

toddious · 05-03-2006, 08:00 PM

so is it true that if you have the eddie bauer or limited model explorer, then you do not have the resistors? and instead have the A/C controller? My blower does not work at all, at any setting. I took it to aamco today and they told me it was the resistor. however, i drive a "limited" and everything i'm reading says that the limiteds have the controller. and if i had resistors, and they went bad, shouldn't it still work on high? because mine does not work at all.

please help, because i'm supposed to take it back to aamco in the morning to have a new resistor put in, and don't wanna waste money. thanks, todd.

97emerald · 05-03-2006, 10:46 PM

Yes, the blower should still work on high if the resistor is bad. If you have no speeds, I would suspect a bad motor, switch, or fuse.

*gijoecam* · 05-04-2006, 08:23 AM

On a 96, If you have the manual temperature controls, you'll have the resistors. If the blower does not work at all on any settings, you'll want to start with the basics:

Interior fuse panel #6 (7.5A)
Power Distribution Block #6 (50A)
Aux. relay block #2, blower motor high speed relay
Aux. relay block #2, blower motor relay

It's possible that it's the resistor pack too.... that'a VERY common problem. The connector under the hood is exposed to the elements, and the terminals corrode away. (I have pictures of that in the gallery linked in my signature)

Now, if you have the electronic automatic temperature controls (which I suspect was standard on a Limited) it's a whole different ball of wax.

Power Distribution Box, Fuse #6 (50A)
Interior fuse panel: #6 (7.5A), #18 (15A), and #9 (10A) (all feed the EATC module)
Check the blower motor relay in aux relay box #2.

The EATC uses a blower motor speed controller instead of a resistor pack. I'm not sure if it's located in the same position as the resistor pack would be or not. At any rate, if you have the EATC, Aamco will NOT be replacing the resistor pack, regardless of what they said.

Also, if you have the manual controls, and the resistors are bad, the motor will work if and only if the high speed relay is good and the motor itself is still good.

-Joe

toddious · 05-04-2006, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gijoecam

The EATC uses a blower motor speed controller instead of a resistor pack. I'm not sure if it's located in the same position as the resistor pack would be or not. At any rate, if you have the EATC, Aamco will NOT be replacing the resistor pack, regardless of what they said.

Also, if you have the manual controls, and the resistors are bad, the motor will work if and only if the high speed relay is good and the motor itself is still good.

-Joe

i do have the automatic temperature control. When i took the truck back to aamco today, they realized that the resistor pack they had ordered is similar, but not identical to the part that i need. I'm assuming it resides in the same location. If this a/c controller is bad, would the blower motor not work at all then? aamco told me that they somehow bypassed this controller, and the motor was working. So i'm assuming I should just replace this part. agree?

budwich · 05-04-2006, 06:40 PM

The blower motor can readily be "started" and run in one speed by grounding one of the leads coming from it to the "AC speed controller".... in essence, that's all that the controller does plus "adding a thing or two" for speed control / adjustment... which may or may not be solid state (I doubt it). Anyways, that's probably how they tested to see if the motor works. It is likely that your "speed control" is done and needs replacement... I don't know if it can be "bench fixed".

05-09-2005, 02:14 PM	#5
TPLYNCH Wannabe Elite Explorer Brewster, NY 1999 XLS Join Date: Nov 1999 Posts: 3,243 Vehicle Specs	Fan only blows on Hi = Blown Resistor A/C only works on MAX = Broken Blend Door __________________ Tom Lynch '99 XLS 4 wonderful very used (80K miles) but still like new Michelin XC LT4 tires "Forget world peace. Visualize using your turn signal."

05-10-2005, 07:28 AM	#8
gijoecam Village Idiot Trenton, MI 98 ExSport, '00 F-150 Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 7,764 Vehicle Specs	Most stealerships should have them in stock. They're a common failure item for fleets, so they're one of the few pig-tails Ford made available separately. Poor design if you ask me... they left all the connections completely exposed to the elements. That's just askin for trouble unless you live in the desert. -Joe __________________ -98 Explorer Sport, 4.0 SOHC, K&N drop-in, LEMON in progress! -'00 F-150, mucho mods, Photo gallery Here *"We need to allow Darwinism take it's course and let the idiots weed themselves out of existance."* ~ Rick Horwitz We must believe in free will — we have no choice. ~ Isaac Bashevis Singer I'm not smart, just a resourceful idiot. ~ Me

05-10-2005, 09:23 AM	#10
gijoecam Village Idiot Trenton, MI 98 ExSport, '00 F-150 Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 7,764 Vehicle Specs	Doubt it. Short-cycling of the compressor is usually indicative of a low freon charge. You'll need to have the system leak-tested and re-charged to fix it. -Joe __________________ -98 Explorer Sport, 4.0 SOHC, K&N drop-in, LEMON in progress! -'00 F-150, mucho mods, Photo gallery Here *"We need to allow Darwinism take it's course and let the idiots weed themselves out of existance."* ~ Rick Horwitz We must believe in free will — we have no choice. ~ Isaac Bashevis Singer I'm not smart, just a resourceful idiot. ~ Me

05-10-2005, 11:52 AM	#12
gijoecam Village Idiot Trenton, MI 98 ExSport, '00 F-150 Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 7,764 Vehicle Specs	Any part. __________________ -98 Explorer Sport, 4.0 SOHC, K&N drop-in, LEMON in progress! -'00 F-150, mucho mods, Photo gallery Here *"We need to allow Darwinism take it's course and let the idiots weed themselves out of existance."* ~ Rick Horwitz We must believe in free will — we have no choice. ~ Isaac Bashevis Singer I'm not smart, just a resourceful idiot. ~ Me

05-03-2006, 08:00 PM	#16
toddious Wannabe Elite Explorer winter park, FL 1996 Limited 4x4 Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 993 Vehicle Specs	so is it true that if you have the eddie bauer or limited model explorer, then you do not have the resistors? and instead have the A/C controller? My blower does not work at all, at any setting. I took it to aamco today and they told me it was the resistor. however, i drive a "limited" and everything i'm reading says that the limiteds have the controller. and if i had resistors, and they went bad, shouldn't it still work on high? because mine does not work at all. please help, because i'm supposed to take it back to aamco in the morning to have a new resistor put in, and don't wanna waste money. thanks, todd. __________________ 1996 Explorer Limited(4x4): SCT Xcalibrator, Milemarker E9000 3" PA Body Lift/2" TT and Custom Leaf Pack 33x12.50 Pro-Comp MT's on 15x10 rockcrawlers. a whole bunch of metal... http://www.cardomain.com/id/toddious

05-07-2005, 06:21 AM	#1
Ish man Wannabe Elite Explorer Honolulu HI 97 Eddie Bauer Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 11 Vehicle Specs	A/C problems I noticed several people having prolems with their A/C. My A/C is one of the ones that blows only on high and 60 degrees. I also noticed a ticking sound near the floorboard when I first start my car. Also does anyone's A/C turn off when the wipers are on intermittent? Any suggestions? Thanks.

05-07-2005, 02:22 PM	#2
awpstl Wannabe Elite Explorer Nashville, TN '97 Eddie Bauer 4.0 SOHC Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 3 Vehicle Specs	same problem with 97 eddie bauer explorer My a/c only works on 60 degrees + MAX A/C has to be pushed in also

05-07-2005, 03:58 PM	#3
Ish man Wannabe Elite Explorer Honolulu HI 97 Eddie Bauer Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 11 Vehicle Specs	Did you find any ideas on the problem? I heard that it could be some realy or resitor in the engine compartment. I jsut have no idea which one. Let me know if you find anything. Thanks

05-07-2005, 08:28 PM	#4
TTG Wannabe Elite Explorer Florida Gulf Coast University, Fort Myers, Florida '95 Sport Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 525 Vehicle Specs	The resistor is bad. Most of the info on the boards points to the resistor being where the relay is, but that is not the case. The resistor is near the back of the engine bay on the passenger side under th blower motor. They get all corroded and die, replaced mine and my AC blows nice now.

05-09-2005, 05:44 PM	#6
gijoecam Village Idiot Trenton, MI 98 ExSport, '00 F-150 Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 7,764 Vehicle Specs	Indeed, here's what happens to the resistors and the connector: I thought I had pics of the repair, but I guess not. They're on the computer at home. The repair costs $30 in parts. $15 for the resistor, $15 for the pig-tail. I soldered and shrink-tubed the connectors, then wrapped it with eiectrical tape. I injected some polyeurethane sealant into the outside of the connector where the wires go in to keep the elements out, and injected the connector side with dielectric grease to do the same. It's working great now! -Joe __________________ -98 Explorer Sport, 4.0 SOHC, K&N drop-in, LEMON in progress! -'00 F-150, mucho mods, Photo gallery Here *"We need to allow Darwinism take it's course and let the idiots weed themselves out of existance."* ~ Rick Horwitz We must believe in free will — we have no choice. ~ Isaac Bashevis Singer I'm not smart, just a resourceful idiot. ~ Me

05-10-2005, 03:09 AM	#7
Ish man Wannabe Elite Explorer Honolulu HI 97 Eddie Bauer Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 11 Vehicle Specs	Wow that is messed up!!! The good thing is that it did not cost you too much. Did the Ford dealer had it in stock or did you have to wait? I would hate to tear my A/C apart then wait for the resistor. I guess I'm calling my dealer tomorrow to see what they got. Thanks for the pictures...good shot of the part numbers. I'll let you know what I find.

05-10-2005, 08:09 AM	#9
section8joe Wannabe Elite Explorer youngstown ohio 2002 xls Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 32 Vehicle Specs	my ac kicks on and off every few seconds. Do you think this might be my problem?

05-10-2005, 11:26 AM	#11
section8joe Wannabe Elite Explorer youngstown ohio 2002 xls Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 32 Vehicle Specs	what part of the AC would be leaking?

05-10-2005, 01:56 PM	#13
section8joe Wannabe Elite Explorer youngstown ohio 2002 xls Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 32 Vehicle Specs	how can i find out what is leaking? im sorry i don't know much about trucks.

05-11-2005, 01:31 AM	#14
Glacier991 EF Tranny Guru Sacramento, CA 95827 1992 XLT Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 9,779 Vehicle Specs	Check out the useful threads on AC. In order, leak points are usually... valves for recharging HI or LOW... Accumulator, garter joints with O rings and compressor seal. DIY dye checking is about your own option... shops have "sniffers. Great pic posts Gi !

05-13-2005, 12:23 AM	#15
Ish man Wannabe Elite Explorer Honolulu HI 97 Eddie Bauer Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 11 Vehicle Specs	Okay I don't have the resistor in my truck...not at least I can see. I did find that I have one of those A/C controllers (same loacation as the resistor in other posts)...costs about 150 bucks from the Ford stealership. One of the good things is that I found an easier way to get to the controller. I went from underneath through the right wheel well. Removed 4 bolts and 4 screws...took about 5 minutes with an air ratchet and phillips screwdriver. A lot easier than removing the windshield washer and radiator resevoir. Just something I wanted to add in case anyone else was going to replace this part...and from what I can see, there will be others. Ish

05-03-2006, 10:46 PM	#17
97emerald Wannabe Elite Explorer Westminster, MD 06 xlt, 97 ranger 4.0 Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 58 Vehicle Specs	Yes, the blower should still work on high if the resistor is bad. If you have no speeds, I would suspect a bad motor, switch, or fuse.

05-04-2006, 08:23 AM	#18
gijoecam Village Idiot Trenton, MI 98 ExSport, '00 F-150 Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 7,764 Vehicle Specs	On a 96, If you have the manual temperature controls, you'll have the resistors. If the blower does not work at all on any settings, you'll want to start with the basics: Interior fuse panel #6 (7.5A) Power Distribution Block #6 (50A) Aux. relay block #2, blower motor high speed relay Aux. relay block #2, blower motor relay It's possible that it's the resistor pack too.... that'a VERY common problem. The connector under the hood is exposed to the elements, and the terminals corrode away. (I have pictures of that in the gallery linked in my signature) Now, if you have the electronic automatic temperature controls (which I suspect was standard on a Limited) it's a whole different ball of wax. Power Distribution Box, Fuse #6 (50A) Interior fuse panel: #6 (7.5A), #18 (15A), and #9 (10A) (all feed the EATC module) Check the blower motor relay in aux relay box #2. The EATC uses a blower motor speed controller instead of a resistor pack. I'm not sure if it's located in the same position as the resistor pack would be or not. At any rate, if you have the EATC, Aamco will NOT be replacing the resistor pack, regardless of what they said. Also, if you have the manual controls, and the resistors are bad, the motor will work if and only if the high speed relay is good and the motor itself is still good. -Joe __________________ -98 Explorer Sport, 4.0 SOHC, K&N drop-in, LEMON in progress! -'00 F-150, mucho mods, Photo gallery Here *"We need to allow Darwinism take it's course and let the idiots weed themselves out of existance."* ~ Rick Horwitz We must believe in free will — we have no choice. ~ Isaac Bashevis Singer I'm not smart, just a resourceful idiot. ~ Me

05-04-2006, 06:40 PM	#20
budwich Wannabe Elite Explorer Ottawa, Ont 96 XL Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 1,962 Vehicle Specs	The blower motor can readily be "started" and run in one speed by grounding one of the leads coming from it to the "AC speed controller".... in essence, that's all that the controller does plus "adding a thing or two" for speed control / adjustment... which may or may not be solid state (I doubt it). Anyways, that's probably how they tested to see if the motor works. It is likely that your "speed control" is done and needs replacement... I don't know if it can be "bench fixed".