Cruise Control Switch - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®

danny3221 · 01-14-2007, 07:55 AM

The cruise control on/off button on the steering wheel of my 1996 Explorer is shot, I have a replacement. I need directions on how to change these out.
Any help would be greatly appreciated

sapacif · 01-15-2007, 07:27 AM

Isn't there a Ford recall on this?

danny3221 · 01-25-2007, 07:51 PM

Since I received no post from my question, I explored (no pun intended) and found the information I needed, so I thought I would share for those who might have the same question in the future.
First of all one Ford dealer wanted $179 for the switch and $250 to install.
I bought the switch on line new for $38.95 plus $5.50 shipping. I discovered installation is easy.
First disconnect the battery and wait 5 minutes.
Then under the steering wheel, there are 2 snap in plastic plugs. remove these plugs with a small screw driver
This exposes a nut which I thnk was a metric 13mm. remove the nut from each side. Then lift off the horn/airbag section, disconnect the plug in lift off the horn/airbag assembly.
The the cruise control switches will be exposed. They are held inplace by two screws.
Remove the screws, lift up on the switch, uplug it, replace with new switch in the reverse order. It is easy and took only about 15 minutes. Much better that paying the thieves at Ford almost $400..

**BrooklynBay** · 01-25-2007, 11:22 PM

Welcome to this forum! Which place did you buy that switch from?

danny3221 · 01-26-2007, 06:12 PM

I bought from http://www.rockauto.com
I first ordered a cruise control switch from one company and in their on-line catalog, it had a picture of the units that goes on the steering wheel. but when I received, it was something that actually attached to the brake line. After lengthly and exhausting conversations with that company, I gave up on them and went to a Ford Web site. The actual name for the part is the cruise controp actuator. After I had the name and the part number I just searcher various auto part web sites until I found the part at a decent price This is a cut and past from their catalog .
MOTORCRAFT Part # SW5919 {#F67Z9C888BC}
Dual Assembly w/Ground Wire On Left Side; Actuator
$39.99 $0.00 $39.99

use the drill down and it is under switches and relays. Hope this helps

bfuentes · 11-14-2007, 12:35 PM

Hey thanks for the info, I know this is an old forum but I am doing the same on my 97.

dmac0923 · 11-14-2007, 08:12 PM

i did this on my 95 XLT and 02 Ranger. i got mine from ford, and they come as a set left and right.

1) First off when working around air bags ALWAYS disconnect the battery!

2)on the back part of the steering wheel on either side there will be two circle plastic covers. remove them to uncover the 8mm screws.

3)remove the screw from each side and remove the horn pad/air bag assembly. becareful when pulling the assembly out because there will be a wiring harness attached

4) each button pod is held on by screws.

5) disconnect cruise control button pod harness and install new one

*Joe Dirt* · 11-14-2007, 11:03 PM

They seriously quoted $250 to replace these switches? Holy CRAP!!! That's like an easy 15 minute job!!! I think the hardest part was getting the plastic covers off the side of the wheel!

dmac0923 · 11-15-2007, 07:17 AM

exactly the trick is getting the covers off without mauling them and making them look horrible

RonDB · 01-04-2008, 02:12 PM

Guys, thanks for the tips. I got my new switch from Auto Parts Giant, about $40 and followed your advice on installation. Piece of cake!

MikeVan · 01-22-2008, 10:41 PM

Many thanks for this - I just ordered the switches on Ebay for $30.
I had the problem on my Ford Ranger pickup.
That indeed was a ridiculous amount Ford asked for these switches - Maybe you should file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau.
In any case, the basic problem is that the switches are a bad design - Not the switches but the plastic mounting studs. The plastic can not take the forces that happen when the switches are depressed by the driver.
The fact that the switches have no good tacticle feedback exuberates the problem -The weird "gummy" feeling that the switches have makes one press harder than really needed.
We also have a 2001 Mustang; the switch arrangement for the cruise control is the same but here the switches have a nice click, not the gummy feeling. So one is not tempted to press harder than needed. I wonder if those switches on the Mustang would also work on the Ranger; they are of better quality.
But in general I must say I have had very little problems with both the Ranger and the Mustang; don't want to make it sound I'm Ford bashing. In fact; this problem with the broken switch is the first "serious" problem I have had with the Ranger after 6 years of using it. So a thumbs up from that standpoint!

*Joe Dirt* · 01-23-2008, 09:01 AM

For anyone that ordered the new switches- do they come with new lights, and do they light up green?

farmtruckman · 01-23-2008, 06:30 PM

Off the top of anyone's head, which unit at www.rockauto.com should I go for? Without disassembly, I don't know which side ground wire is on, left or right? MOTORCRAFT Part # SW5919 is for left side ground wire, MOTORCRAFT Part # SW5913 is for right side ground wire. Anyone know which is for 95 XLT?

geosnooker2000 · 06-05-2008, 02:15 PM

Well, it doesn't matter what side the ground is on, as I found out. Y'all, I'M STUPID!!!! I read the above directions, but somehow missed the part about disconnecting the button pods from the CRUISE CONTROL WIRING HARNESS AND LEAVING THE HARNESS IN PLACE!!!!! I bought my replacement buttons from the dealer ($58+tax), and they came with a new wiring harness already atached. I didn't even think to look and see if they were detatchable. So my dumb ass is out their in the 95 deg. heat trying to remove the old wiring, how does this thing go around....oh, I see, this wire is looped under the horn thingamabob........CRAP! The wiring harness disconnect wire is in a chistmass tree put into the BACKSIDE of the stearing wheel frame......CRAP!!! No NEDDLE NOSE PLIERS!!!! Well, let's see if we can squeeze 2 flat blade screwdrivers together......

Got it all back together, and put the battery cable to the positive post and WAAAAAAAAAAAAA. CRAP!!!!!!! The horn is screwed up. Disasemble the thing again and jiggle the wiring around until it all cleared the airbag pod.......

Finally it worked. MAN! I still can't keep it staight in my head how to start the car after the battery has been disconnected. Finding that little button to push while turning the key.......

Anyway, road test was successful.

P.S. the reason I know that it doesn't matter about which side the ground is on, is that my new wiring harness has the ground on the left....old one was on the right.

memhorn · 06-06-2008, 10:40 PM

I bought a pair on ebay for $25 and they do light up just fine (don't think they are green, though).

brownbagg · 08-16-2008, 08:09 PM

I bought the switches from ford dealership today for $80 plus tax

B-Cruiser · 09-19-2008, 06:39 AM

I bought these cruise control switches from Amazon back in April, Motorcraft part number SW5919 for $36.32 (plus shipping - approx $6, no tax). I just visited Amazon and you can now get these switches from Amazon with super-saver shipping - no shipping cost. It takes a little longer to get to you, approx. 10 days, but is usually worth the wait to save. The switches come with a wiring harness, but save a lot of time and just use the existing wiring on the steering wheel. My old switches actually worked, but the switch lights didn't work and the black coating melted every time it was hot inside the car. That black coating was getting on everything, so I replaced the switches just befor summer.

JohnWPaul · 09-19-2008, 07:22 AM

I just did this on my 1999 XLT. Bought the switches from ebay. The ground wire is on the left hand side switches...the On/Off acutuator. Piece of cake but a cheap design by Ford.

B-Cruiser · 09-19-2008, 07:46 AM

I didn't notice which side the ground wire was on.

MNgopher · 09-20-2008, 12:03 AM

The the poster above who noted the horn went off the first time he tried to hook it all back up, I ran into the same thing after I attempted to reinstall mine. Turns out I flipped the connection to the LH side switch on the install. After multiple rounds of troubleshooting and having to unconvince myself that I knew which way the connection went on, I flipped the connector and problem was solved. Talk about wanting to crap your pants when you hook the battery back up the 1st time - nothing like standing in front of the Ex in a closed garage and not expecting the horn!

FWIW, the dealer wanted $82 for SW5919. Rockauto was something like $38 plus a few bucks S&H. Guess who got my business... Every unit I checked out at the U-Pulls already had the switches pulled (and they usually mangled the wiring harness - a pet peeve of mine). Take the extra 5 mintues to disconnect things the right way so what you leave behind can be used!

01-14-2007, 07:55 AM	#1
danny3221 Wannabe Elite Explorer ocala fl 1996 \explrer xlt 2wd Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 7 Vehicle Specs	Cruise Control Switch The cruise control on/off button on the steering wheel of my 1996 Explorer is shot, I have a replacement. I need directions on how to change these out. Any help would be greatly appreciated

01-15-2007, 07:27 AM	#2
sapacif Wannabe Elite Explorer San Antonio, Texas 98 EB Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 16 Vehicle Specs	Isn't there a Ford recall on this? __________________ sapacif 1998 EB, V8, AWD

01-25-2007, 07:51 PM	#3
danny3221 Wannabe Elite Explorer ocala fl 1996 \explrer xlt 2wd Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 7 Vehicle Specs	cruise control switch Since I received no post from my question, I explored (no pun intended) and found the information I needed, so I thought I would share for those who might have the same question in the future. First of all one Ford dealer wanted $179 for the switch and $250 to install. I bought the switch on line new for $38.95 plus $5.50 shipping. I discovered installation is easy. First disconnect the battery and wait 5 minutes. Then under the steering wheel, there are 2 snap in plastic plugs. remove these plugs with a small screw driver This exposes a nut which I thnk was a metric 13mm. remove the nut from each side. Then lift off the horn/airbag section, disconnect the plug in lift off the horn/airbag assembly. The the cruise control switches will be exposed. They are held inplace by two screws. Remove the screws, lift up on the switch, uplug it, replace with new switch in the reverse order. It is easy and took only about 15 minutes. Much better that paying the thieves at Ford almost $400..

01-25-2007, 11:22 PM	#4
BrooklynBay Aerostar Forum Moderator Brooklyn, NY 88 89 93 95 96 Aerostars Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 35,429 Vehicle Specs	Welcome to this forum! Which place did you buy that switch from? __________________ My list of useful threads. My photo gallery. My product reviews. My list of items for sale. Aerostar owners thread. Aerostar parts work in Explorers, Rangers, and Bronco II thread. History of the Aerostar thread. Aerostar Forum. New Members Forum.

01-26-2007, 06:12 PM	#5
danny3221 Wannabe Elite Explorer ocala fl 1996 \explrer xlt 2wd Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 7 Vehicle Specs	c-c switch I bought from http://www.rockauto.com I first ordered a cruise control switch from one company and in their on-line catalog, it had a picture of the units that goes on the steering wheel. but when I received, it was something that actually attached to the brake line. After lengthly and exhausting conversations with that company, I gave up on them and went to a Ford Web site. The actual name for the part is the cruise controp actuator. After I had the name and the part number I just searcher various auto part web sites until I found the part at a decent price This is a cut and past from their catalog . MOTORCRAFT Part # SW5919 {#F67Z9C888BC} Dual Assembly w/Ground Wire On Left Side; Actuator $39.99 $0.00 $39.99 use the drill down and it is under switches and relays. Hope this helps Last edited by danny3221; 01-26-2007 at 06:21 PM. Reason: addition

11-14-2007, 12:35 PM	#6
bfuentes Wannabe Elite Explorer Apalachicola, FL 1997 XLT Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 2 Vehicle Specs	Hey thanks for the info, I know this is an old forum but I am doing the same on my 97.

11-14-2007, 08:12 PM	#7
dmac0923 Wannabe Elite Explorer Yorktown 2002 ranger xlt Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 231 Vehicle Specs	i did this on my 95 XLT and 02 Ranger. i got mine from ford, and they come as a set left and right. 1) First off when working around air bags ALWAYS disconnect the battery! 2)on the back part of the steering wheel on either side there will be two circle plastic covers. remove them to uncover the 8mm screws. 3)remove the screw from each side and remove the horn pad/air bag assembly. becareful when pulling the assembly out because there will be a wiring harness attached 4) each button pod is held on by screws. 5) disconnect cruise control button pod harness and install new one __________________ 2002 Ford explorer 4dr eddie bauer 4.0 auto 4wd 2002 ford Ranger 4dr XLT 4.0 auto 4wd 2001 Ford explorer 2dr Sport 4.0 auto 4wd 1995 ford explorer 4dr XLT 4.0 auto 4wd 1968,1969,1970 Mustangs

11-14-2007, 11:03 PM	#8
Joe Dirt Is this real life? Grand Rapids, MI '97 V8 XLT Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 5,397 Vehicle Specs	They seriously quoted $250 to replace these switches? Holy CRAP!!! That's like an easy 15 minute job!!! I think the hardest part was getting the plastic covers off the side of the wheel! __________________ 1997 Explorer XLT... "Shamrock" The above post is the opinion of a user and should not be considered a fact, nor does the above poster claim it to be one. In fact, you really shouldn't believe anything you read on the internet. Ever. And definitely don't take anything on the internet seriously. It's just not a good idea. Everything on the internet is a wrong. Unless I post it. Then it's probably right.

11-15-2007, 07:17 AM	#9
dmac0923 Wannabe Elite Explorer Yorktown 2002 ranger xlt Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 231 Vehicle Specs	exactly the trick is getting the covers off without mauling them and making them look horrible __________________ 2002 Ford explorer 4dr eddie bauer 4.0 auto 4wd 2002 ford Ranger 4dr XLT 4.0 auto 4wd 2001 Ford explorer 2dr Sport 4.0 auto 4wd 1995 ford explorer 4dr XLT 4.0 auto 4wd 1968,1969,1970 Mustangs

01-04-2008, 02:12 PM	#10
RonDB Wannabe Elite Explorer Woodstock, GA 96 Explorer Eddie Bauer Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 1 Vehicle Specs	Guys, thanks for the tips. I got my new switch from Auto Parts Giant, about $40 and followed your advice on installation. Piece of cake!

01-22-2008, 10:41 PM	#11
MikeVan Wannabe Elite Explorer Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 1 Vehicle Specs	Cruise control switches Many thanks for this - I just ordered the switches on Ebay for $30. I had the problem on my Ford Ranger pickup. That indeed was a ridiculous amount Ford asked for these switches - Maybe you should file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau. In any case, the basic problem is that the switches are a bad design - Not the switches but the plastic mounting studs. The plastic can not take the forces that happen when the switches are depressed by the driver. The fact that the switches have no good tacticle feedback exuberates the problem -The weird "gummy" feeling that the switches have makes one press harder than really needed. We also have a 2001 Mustang; the switch arrangement for the cruise control is the same but here the switches have a nice click, not the gummy feeling. So one is not tempted to press harder than needed. I wonder if those switches on the Mustang would also work on the Ranger; they are of better quality. But in general I must say I have had very little problems with both the Ranger and the Mustang; don't want to make it sound I'm Ford bashing. In fact; this problem with the broken switch is the first "serious" problem I have had with the Ranger after 6 years of using it. So a thumbs up from that standpoint!

01-23-2008, 09:01 AM	#12
Joe Dirt Is this real life? Grand Rapids, MI '97 V8 XLT Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 5,397 Vehicle Specs	For anyone that ordered the new switches- do they come with new lights, and do they light up green? __________________ 1997 Explorer XLT... "Shamrock" The above post is the opinion of a user and should not be considered a fact, nor does the above poster claim it to be one. In fact, you really shouldn't believe anything you read on the internet. Ever. And definitely don't take anything on the internet seriously. It's just not a good idea. Everything on the internet is a wrong. Unless I post it. Then it's probably right.

01-23-2008, 06:30 PM	#13
farmtruckman Wannabe Elite Explorer ellensburg, wa '95 xlt Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 67 Vehicle Specs	Which unit for 95 X? Off the top of anyone's head, which unit at www.rockauto.com should I go for? Without disassembly, I don't know which side ground wire is on, left or right? MOTORCRAFT Part # SW5919 is for left side ground wire, MOTORCRAFT Part # SW5913 is for right side ground wire. Anyone know which is for 95 XLT?

06-05-2008, 02:15 PM	#14
geosnooker2000 Wannabe Elite Explorer Memphis '96 Eddie Bauer Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 64 Vehicle Specs	Well, it doesn't matter what side the ground is on, as I found out. Y'all, I'M STUPID!!!! I read the above directions, but somehow missed the part about disconnecting the button pods from the CRUISE CONTROL WIRING HARNESS AND LEAVING THE HARNESS IN PLACE!!!!! I bought my replacement buttons from the dealer ($58+tax), and they came with a new wiring harness already atached. I didn't even think to look and see if they were detatchable. So my dumb ass is out their in the 95 deg. heat trying to remove the old wiring, how does this thing go around....oh, I see, this wire is looped under the horn thingamabob........CRAP! The wiring harness disconnect wire is in a chistmass tree put into the BACKSIDE of the stearing wheel frame......CRAP!!! No NEDDLE NOSE PLIERS!!!! Well, let's see if we can squeeze 2 flat blade screwdrivers together...... Got it all back together, and put the battery cable to the positive post and WAAAAAAAAAAAAA. CRAP!!!!!!! The horn is screwed up. Disasemble the thing again and jiggle the wiring around until it all cleared the airbag pod....... Finally it worked. MAN! I still can't keep it staight in my head how to start the car after the battery has been disconnected. Finding that little button to push while turning the key....... Anyway, road test was successful. P.S. the reason I know that it doesn't matter about which side the ground is on, is that my new wiring harness has the ground on the left....old one was on the right.

06-06-2008, 10:40 PM	#15
memhorn Wannabe Elite Explorer Austin, Texas 1998 XLT Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 30 Vehicle Specs	I bought a pair on ebay for $25 and they do light up just fine (don't think they are green, though).

08-16-2008, 08:09 PM	#16
brownbagg Wannabe Elite Explorer grand bay, al 96 xlt Join Date: Aug 2002 Posts: 54 Vehicle Specs	I bought the switches from ford dealership today for $80 plus tax __________________ brownbagg@hotmail.com

09-19-2008, 06:39 AM	#17
B-Cruiser Wannabe Elite Explorer Lawrenceville, GA '96 XLT Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 2 Vehicle Specs	I bought these cruise control switches from Amazon back in April, Motorcraft part number SW5919 for $36.32 (plus shipping - approx $6, no tax). I just visited Amazon and you can now get these switches from Amazon with super-saver shipping - no shipping cost. It takes a little longer to get to you, approx. 10 days, but is usually worth the wait to save. The switches come with a wiring harness, but save a lot of time and just use the existing wiring on the steering wheel. My old switches actually worked, but the switch lights didn't work and the black coating melted every time it was hot inside the car. That black coating was getting on everything, so I replaced the switches just befor summer.

09-19-2008, 07:22 AM	#18
JohnWPaul Wannabe Elite Explorer Sterling Heighs, MI 1999 xlt Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 17 Vehicle Specs	I just did this on my 1999 XLT. Bought the switches from ebay. The ground wire is on the left hand side switches...the On/Off acutuator. Piece of cake but a cheap design by Ford.

09-19-2008, 07:46 AM	#19
B-Cruiser Wannabe Elite Explorer Lawrenceville, GA '96 XLT Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 2 Vehicle Specs	I didn't notice which side the ground wire was on. Last edited by B-Cruiser; 09-19-2008 at 07:50 AM. Reason: already posted same comment

09-20-2008, 12:03 AM	#20
MNgopher Wannabe Elite Explorer Lakeville, MN '97 XLT Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 16 Vehicle Specs	Cruise Switch and Horn The the poster above who noted the horn went off the first time he tried to hook it all back up, I ran into the same thing after I attempted to reinstall mine. Turns out I flipped the connection to the LH side switch on the install. After multiple rounds of troubleshooting and having to unconvince myself that I knew which way the connection went on, I flipped the connector and problem was solved. Talk about wanting to crap your pants when you hook the battery back up the 1st time - nothing like standing in front of the Ex in a closed garage and not expecting the horn! FWIW, the dealer wanted $82 for SW5919. Rockauto was something like $38 plus a few bucks S&H. Guess who got my business... Every unit I checked out at the U-Pulls already had the switches pulled (and they usually mangled the wiring harness - a pet peeve of mine). Take the extra 5 mintues to disconnect things the right way so what you leave behind can be used!