96 explorer dr side power windows wont work

Power windows on drivers side wont work. The pass side do. Will the main control switch in the drivers door, lose connection to a half side only? I hear nothing at all when switch is activated. I read some posts, but nothing on my problem in particular. I put down the wrong year, should say 95! oops!

Ok, I have found another thread with similar, but not my exact problem. I replaced the accy relay under the dash and the moon roof, passenger side windows work. I found a owners manual at the bone yard, and found the fuse box and power dist box layouts. I am going to replace the relay in the dist box in a bit, also the delay relay for the dr window, hope that works. There is a click from the accy relay when the dr window button is depressed, but not from the dr rear window. if any body can put this to sense, I can use some info here!

well I would save my money on parts and buy a meter.... Check for voltage at the motor on that side and then follow the wire back to the switch.... either the switch is broke or the wire along that route is fubarred.

All right, I just replaced the one touch relay under the dash, and nothing. I removed the door panel and got to the master window switch, jiggled the wires on the dr side. Now the dr rear works, the orange/bl stripe was loose. The dr window still wont work. I hear a click both from the motor, and under the dash a split second after the button is pushed down.
3 out of 4 today, not bad, but the most important one still evades me! I can turn a wrench, but have no knowledge of anything electronic! I could not even tell you how to operate an ohm meter!
The fact that I hear clicking from switches, tells me there is power going to the motors, right? Could this be a mechanical problem, like the bushings gone bad in the gears? (for the dr side)

could be .... but you will probably never know without measuring voltage at the motor. Normally, when the motor has a mechanical issue, it will still try to turn or "make noise". In your case, it doesn't appear to happen... BUT now you know what to look for from your other "wiggle trick". Again follow the wires from the motor to the switch. Get someone with a meter (or knowledge there of) to help.... you are close.

Check for voltage on each wire at the motor connector on the door. Disconnect that to check for voltage, they should read as ground when the switches are not pressed. When a switch is pressed, one of those two wires will get power, for any window motor. Good luck,

Going to try to "jump" it with my lawn mower battery after work tomorrow. Bypass everything to see if the prob is before the motor. If the window goes up and down after reversing the connections, at least I know it is a switch or a wire.

To "jump" the window motor you have to unplug the wire connector on the door. Why not simply test the two wires there if you unplug the connector? If there is not voltage on either with the switch pressed, you know that power is missing then.

Your "move the battery closer" test is a good one as it eliminates the motor outright.

I already have the door panel off, and I have done this "jump" before on another rig when the switch broke when I was camping. I just unplug the connector, stick the points inside the motor connector ends, and walah! Only takes a minute to do, and it will just give me a little pc o mind. I dont have a meter, have to buy one. I do have a 12-V test light though.
Can I use it to check for power at the connector from the dr switch to the motor?

Yes, that's what I described, you can tell if each wire shows power with the switch. You need an ohmmeter to check that each wire is grounded when the switch is not pressed.

Thanks cdw6212r, after I get the meter (and read the instructions) I will give it the old college try! Got to busy to do the "jump" thing tonight, I will post after I do.

Alright, I found some time to try the "jump", nothing doing! I did hook up the test light to the connector from the switch, there is definitely power coming from the switch. The light stayed on when I tapped the down button until I pressed it again, tells me the one touch feature is working, pushed the up button and the other light on my test light came on. No lights came on when they were connected and I did not push the window button. So I guess I have a motor problem. Now what? Any one point me in the right direction? I will try a search to find something.

IF you are saying that you did your "move the battery closer" (ie. lawn mower battery) and you get nothing... I think you have your problem identified. Forget about checking the switch, your motor doesn't work... end of story. I think you will find a few threads on how to replace the motor.

Having said, I hope that you tried your "jump" in both directions (reversing the polarity)

The two motor wires are grounded normally(switch untouched). The window switches apply power to one wire and break that same wire's connection to ground.

The motors very very rarely fail, the plastic gears in the drive section usually disintegrate.

Thank guys for the help! I will search for a" how to remove window motor" thread. I did see one that describes how to replace the gears, but its weird, I would think I would hear the motor trying to work, you know like free spinning, winding out , or something. Do they just jam up with bits of plastic and freeze in place? Just wondering.

Yes I believe so, and often the window can be moved up/down by hand when they are very bad.

FYI, the motor comes out with three small bolts, leave any bolts for the regulator alone. That is the only danger to worry about, the window regulator will cut fingers off. Regards,

Great! Thats what I wanted to hear! I will count my digits after the job! LOL!

It's basically easy to remove the motor, if the three bolts have holes to access them. Some Fords have one or two that you have to drill a hole in the door to reach(there would be a tiny dimple to identify the location). Just find the motor, then the rounded end(plastic gears inside), the three bolts go into that end. An 8mm socket will do it. Night,

I posted the update in the wrong damn thread! Aggravated I guess!
The motor works, the plugs were good (replaced them anyways). The glass is slipping off track! (track meaning the steel guide that the glass sits on). It is coming out of the seats, that are loose and have side to side play. I guess I need a new track.
The window must have been jammed in the up position, with the track binding on the outside of the glass. does any one know about how the track is supposed to be? I mean, should it be tight with no play, the glass is in the side felt tracks, it slides up and down easy with a little resistance, by hand out of the lower track.
just found a thread that says the clips that hold the glass to the regulator are not for sale! Have to buy a new window! Thats nuts! I wonder if I found a used regulator and just swapped them out? Have to call the bone yard and find out if the clips are on the glass or attached to the regulator to make sure. This has been a royal pain for something that should be easy to deal with.