Body Work & Detailing

Body Work 101 How I addressed the Rust on the Ford LD50 1st gen Rusty rocker panel bodywork - rockerpanel replacement How To: Recover your Center Console (10 Steps) Rear Door Vent Window Replacment Getting those plastic trims back to OEM black with pics How to: 1st Gen Gas Tank Fuel Pump Access Panel How to: - Remove and replace door latch assembly Custom colored ford emblems List of Bodywork Resources on the Net How to: Apply bed liner to your floor What is the best Billet Grille? A guide to modding your front end! Wiper motor shaving write up with pics Bumper bracket / rail end how to Creating with Fiberglass a Step by Step Guide by Drew Wilson

To begin Bondo is a product name for body filler. I am not a fan of Bondo products. I use Evercoat Rage Gold and Evercoat Metal Glaze. It is a far superior body filler.

Due to a crash happening to our f150 I had to use a salvage yard core support -headlught access trim cover. Decals were peeling even after someone stuck shipping tape over them years ago. After cleaning them off I wondered if new were available. Auto data labels dot com. I emailed an inquiry. Return email said to expect an email with pricing info . 6 days later, no email. Express delivery ups package arrives at door.

Hello all, ISO a patch panel I saw years ago but cant seem to locate now. My Drivers rear quarter is rusted thru on my 96, the notorious rust above the fuel door along with the usual Mid West rust. I was looking a few years ago and saw folks buying 1st gen rear quarters, and a special tail light surround patch that would "convert" the quarter to fit a 2nd gen tail lamp assembly. LMC Truck no longer shows window down rear quarters for 1st gen any more, or second gen for that matter, but I have seen them at Classic 2 Current, and Summit, Raybuck, to name a few. They range from $178-to $280 not including shipping. So has anyone ever seen these tail-lamp-assembly surround patch panels? Even if they are discontinued maybe I can still...

how do you clean the backside of the butterfly valve on electronic Throttle body? Can you force the butterfly valve to open? I know you can buy TB cleaner and attached a small tube to the TB, and then spray it while the van is running. I tried that in the past with the 3M, but it doesn't really clean the gunk completely. Do I need to take the TB out to clean the backside?

Since this is a repair-related topic, but since there is much debate over if the windshield is part of the "body" or not (whereas repairing a windshield is or is not body work,) please move this thread if it is better suited to another Sub-Forum, thanks. Since I've lately been curious about windshield replacements after hearing the EPA has given incentive to insurance companies to provide glass repair and replacement at little to no cost upfront, among other arrangements, due to landfill problems with auto glass, I thought I would make a thread where you can tell me / just discuss what policies you have and which ones work for you for your glass repair needs. Mine does not currently cover this whatsoever, so if I got a chip that cracked...

Resins come in many shapes and sizes. (and prices.) What is your go-to or a few brands/products in particular you feel like are trustworthy and hold up long term for chip or crack repair? Have you ever had a repair done and asked the tech what resin they use? And does an average Joe just go buy the Harbor Freight Special "clear epoxy" and send it in those cracks, or should he just stick to a brand name like RainX or Permatex. Which do you feel like stay clear the longest, and don't become hazy or opaque? Feel free, also, to share kits or tools for glass/windshield repair you have had good or even bad results with.

Color matched?! I'd say yeah. Under a perfect flash light, the aerosol base coat is mildly more purple. Under all other lighting, shes minty bud. so, recently repainted and installed my new to me Moon Visor. All went well! For those of us doing DIY customizations or repairs to our Dark Lapis Metallic trucks, it appears it is harder than necessary to find an aerosol that matches or is even available. Thanks to the forum members I was able to get close to getting a reliable link to the color needed. There is an aerosol available (as pictured) that gets very close if not as close as you'd ever need called "Ford Dark Blue Metallic" by Duplicolor. It is available at auto parts stores like the one down the road that your second cousins...

Hey all. Hoping the community can help me figure out if its worth repainting my two door Sport. Apologies as this turned into a long post. But wanted to give the full story on this rig so you all know how to evaluate it. I'm trying to get an idea of cost for a repaint and if the increased value of the vehicle would be worth the painting cost. So here are the details and backstory. Details: 2000 Sport Premium 4.0L SOHC 4x4 (4.10 Gears) Oxford White with Medium Titanium Metallic factory body kit Light grey interior Every option minus leather/sunroof Mileage: 80,000 Backstory: Back in 2001 I bought this as a low mileage salvage title vehicle. The damage was exclusively sheet metal; only reason I decided to buy it. Left fender door...

So, I got lucky and a while ago I found a "dark blue metallic" aerosol at my Autozone from the Duplicolor line of products and it totally worked for rock chips and other blemishes on the body paintwork.. a few years ago.. However, now it seems as though they do not stock this anywhere anymore (that I've found, in my area(s.)) Have now recently picked up a Lund Moon Visor, that is white. My 97 Explorer is Dark Lapis Metallic, and, of course, it is nearly impossible to find a trustworthy-looking listing for this paint in aerosol form online. I only need to spray this very cosmetic visor. (I am VERY experienced in smoothly painting with aerosol cans.. and trust me I do not mind block sanding and polishing this visor after I 2k clear it...

• Got a 4-bar grill with no 'nostrils' (2007 Explorer XLT). • Buying a used 3-bar version with nostrils. • Want to cut out the three bars and replace with mesh. What's the best way to affix the mesh to the rest of the grill, cover up the holes, and get the finish as close to factory as possible? Current grill: The means: The GOAL:

The light fixture on the top of my cab was broken with hail damage recently. When I ordered the part, it came with plug-in wiring. This is not the same as the wiring on the truck. I am not overly mechanical, but know how to do basic electrical. I tried to use the splicing pieces that you just put the wires side by side and squeeze it together, but it doesn't seem to work. Is it all right to cut the plug off and wire as I would originally with cutting the wires and splicing them together and good tape? To many of you this may sound basic, I'm just a little old man with no knowledge of mechanics. Thanks for your help

Does anyone know the going rates for rust repair and if the prices I've been quoted seem appropriate? This is for a 2008 4.6L V8 Limited with about 150k miles. I'm also located in Pennsylvania if that matters. Penndot loves to overly salt everything during the winter which I'm sure is the largest contributing factor. I've taken this to a local body shop that works with rust and I was quoted $1,707 to do the right rear quarter and wheel well. This includes cutting and welding in a new piece, cutting and welding new cross members underneath, and removing/replacing items like right rear glass, tail lamp, bumper, etc. Also includes cleaning, caulking, priming, and repainting to match the existing paint. Both of my rockers are also...

Does anyone know what these are and how to remove them? There are 6

Wondering if anybody has ever figured out a way to hang a rear hatch on a 2nd gen without assistance. I'm considering hanging it via a pulley from the carport, using the winch running the line up to the carport and over the roof of the truck. Other suggestions or stories of what you have done?

My 2021 Explorer Timberline came from the factory with black & chrome oval Ford emblems. Unfortunately my grill sustained some damage and the emblem is scratched. The problem is the auto repair shop ordered the part number listed for my vin and the only thing that comes up is the blue emblem. I have spoke with my local dealership, also the dealership I bought the vehicle from, Ford parts customer service, as well as Ford regular customer service and no one can figure out how to order the black emblems that are standard on the Timberline. Has anyone else had this problem and successfully been able to obtain the correct emblems for their Timberline?

Jon! (Turdle) I know you already know all of this but I found it interesting... and I thought you're powdercoating oven was big! LoL