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Removing Broken Easy-Out

V8BoatBuilder

Transplanted Bostonian
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97 Mountaineer V8 4x4
(Not sure where to post this, there are too many sub-forums these days.... I digress)

I have a 6mm (small) stainless steel bolt sheared flush into an aluminum block. I tired using an easy-out, but the bolt was jammed harder than I thought and the easy-out snapped off 1/16" below the bolt surface.

Any suggestions on how to drill this mess out now? My plan is to heli-coil.
 



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I would try heating the area (careful though, you dont want to melt that aluminum ;))
 






Is it cross-threaded?
 






is there enough clearance to tack weld a rod onto the easy out to at least get it removed?

or take a dremel with a cutting blade and cut a nice slot to fit a screwdriver in and get the easy out removed. then use left handed drill bits to get the bolt.
 












Thanks for the posts, I don't have access to a welder. I've thought of using my propane torch on the area, but it's very close to gaskets/wiring/etc so I'd like to do that as a last resort.

Where would be the best place to purchase left-handed drill bits? Would they even be able to drill out the hardened easy-out?
 












The easy out is smaller than the original stainless bolt, so if a carbide bit would drill it out than that's the answer.

Think HD or Lowes or Autozone would have a carbide bit?
 






yeah I think I got a set at HD last time, or maybe it was autozone hmmm...
 






did you ever get it out? I've got the same problem now since I snapped one of the transmission pan bolts... I drilled it tonight and will try removing the bolt tomorrow... wan to see what my options are...

thanks,
 






A torque wrench is like insurance in this case. It could help prevent over torquing the bolts in the first place. A thread repair kit might be necessary to use if the housing gets damaged in the process of trying to get the old bolt out.
 






To get out a broken EZ out, use a hammer and a hardened pin punch. The EZ out will chip right out of there.

-Joe
 






To get out a broken EZ out, use a hammer and a hardened pin punch. The EZ out will chip right out of there.

-Joe

however in this instance he is hammering against aluminum, I'm not sure that would offer the impact he needs without messing up the part even more.


By now I hope he was able to remove it...
 






however in this instance he is hammering against aluminum, I'm not sure that would offer the impact he needs without messing up the part even more.


By now I hope he was able to remove it...
No, he's hammering against the broken EZ-out (which is hard and relatively brittle) which is lodged in a steel bolt. I've used a pin punch to break EZ outs out of a lot of differrent items, including aluminum. They're brittle enough that they tend to fracture pretty easily.

Also, I forgot to mention it the first time around... A left-handed carbide drill won't help... if anything, it'll drive the EZ-out even further into the bolt. He needs a right handed drill to remove the extractor, then a left handed drill (and/or another EZ-out) to remove the bolt.

-Joe
 






No, he's hammering against the broken EZ-out (which is hard and relatively brittle) which is lodged in a steel bolt. I've used a pin punch to break EZ outs out of a lot of differrent items, including aluminum. They're brittle enough that they tend to fracture pretty easily.


-Joe

:thumbsup: Ahhh... Good point, I forgot about the remainder of the bolt lining the hole around the easy out.


The big question is, did he get it out, and it seems V8boatbuilder has gone AWOL :salute:
 






however in this instance he is hammering against aluminum, I'm not sure that would offer the impact he needs without messing up the part even more.


By now I hope he was able to remove it...


You totally called it. I was away on business travel, and tried again tonight to get the mess out. I started hammering the ez-out down the hole with a small punch, and it was actually working quite well for a while. But, I was a bit over zealous with my hammering and cracked the aluminum ear right of the cylinder head. The bolt's out, but not the way I wanted.

Looks like I'm part shopping now. Anyone have a cylinder head for an 18hp Tohatsu outboard? Be careful out there guys.
 






Sorry top hear that, I have a pair of DOHC Cobra heads which UPS dropped, one head has a back corner ear broken off. I'd weld it back on, I will with mine. Try that alumaloy, that rod which melts with a propane torch, and adheres like solder.

Aaron, did you receive my message weeks ago, about your BW4406? I am still browsing for a good mileage TOD shifting version. Where did you look for yours? I haven't found anything with under about 90k on it?
 






Sorry about the PM Don, I'll send you one now.
 



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I would take it to a welding shop and have them weld it back on, a good welder can do wonders with aluminum. As long as the part can be cleaned properly.
 






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