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Torsion twist for dummies! (pics included)

just want to double check, this is just like tightening a regular bolt correct? so clockwise will tighten and therefore lift it and counterclockwise will loosen and therefore drop it? Thanks.
 



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I've got no rust. =)
We don't use salt on our roads, and unlike Anchorage, we're not near the ocean.
 






What did you do?

Haha, I did BOTH, jacked it up and drove it around just to make sure.. and it worked out, I wanted to play it on the safe side.. not like its not safe to not do either of the two lol
 






just want to double check, this is just like tightening a regular bolt correct? so clockwise will tighten and therefore lift it and counterclockwise will loosen and therefore drop it? Thanks.

yep, that should be the case, as with any bolt, you'll definitely know if you're tightening it if it's getting harder and harder to go a certain way, just make sure that you're doing it about equally on both sides
 






thanks a lot 97... did you check my message on the whole salvage yard thing on your finding a fender thread?
 






Great write-up and great pics 97!

For those that do want to go higher than 2" and are prepared to do the alignment and spacing necessary to keep things working, here is a thread on longer bolts.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153699&highlight=longer+TT+bolts

This may also be helpful for those doing a smaller lift as some have reported that they can't even get a two inch lift before their torsion bolts are bottomed out.
 






Wait wait, I think I understand now. The stiffness of the bar determines how much lift you actually get by twisting the bolts? So if you have a stiff bar, it probably will take less turns than if you had a softer bar, which you'd have to turn more, or get longer bolts? Am I correct or did I just pull that outta my a$$?

Btw, my SPR Setting is: 1F, so I have pretty stiff torsion bars, don't I?
 






Wait wait, I think I understand now. The stiffness of the bar determines how much lift you actually get by twisting the bolts? So if you have a stiff bar, it probably will take less turns than if you had a softer bar, which you'd have to turn more, or get longer bolts? Am I correct or did I just pull that outta my a$$?

Btw, my SPR Setting is: 1F, so I have pretty stiff torsion bars, don't I?

That makes sense to me because a stiffer bar wouldn't flex as much and I'd imagine that any flex would be reflected in less lift.

As for your bars, there is at least one thread and probably more that gives the ratings of various suspension pieces as indicated on your door sticker.
 






How sure are you of my understanding of my bar stiffness/lift gain? It makes logical sense, but is this how it really works? From what I figure, I'm less likely to have to go get longer bolts like most v6 owners with softer bars.
 






I'd say pretty sure, not enough to bet my life on it, but pretty sure. My logic is that since the torsion bars aren't totally encased by something that would eliminate flex, they would bow somewhat because they are getting force from both ends (the torsion bolt and the front wheel). Like a bow and arrow, when the force is applied, it would naturally deflect.
 






Anyone else have any opinion/personal experience on this?
 






thanks a lot 97... did you check my message on the whole salvage yard thing on your finding a fender thread?

umm yep, I think?did you send a follow-up one recently? I got the one about you checking it when you got home if the weather was still good

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OH and to storlied,

I just tightened them, I dont even know what kind of bar I had, but like with every bold there is only so far you can tighten it, just make SURE you stay withing the 2-3 inch lift range or you can severely wear out your cv joints!
 






Will do, I'll probably keep it from 1.5-1.75" or so, I don't think I'll have to bring it up too much higher to even out with shackles.
 












Will do, I'll probably keep it from 1.5-1.75" or so, I don't think I'll have to bring it up too much higher to even out with shackles.

thats probably your best bet, and thats what I did, I just did the TT BEFORE I had my shackles on haha It was weird how much of a difference 1.75" made when only the front was lifted instead of the back at that time
 






It's -40.. arg.. the waiting game again... plus I need find the shackles... Anywhere online with shipping to here, I'm paying like 150$ No way in hell am I going to pay that much for a $60 part.
 






Quick question: It's around -20 here.. The risk of breaking the bolt is higher, right? I was thinking about the locktite on them.. thinking it's frozen and it would put more stress on the bolt that I'm trying to turn.. is that correct? Just read a thread on Ranger-Forum about how some guy just broke his bolt.. that's the last thing I need.
 






Quick question: It's around -20 here.. The risk of breaking the bolt is higher, right? I was thinking about the locktite on them.. thinking it's frozen and it would put more stress on the bolt that I'm trying to turn.. is that correct? Just read a thread on Ranger-Forum about how some guy just broke his bolt.. that's the last thing I need.

are your bolts really rusty or just frozen? or both? theres always de-icer and liquid wrench, but of course, dont take any risks where you think you might break it, my bolts were HARD to turn.. as in I ruined a perfectly good socket wrench haha
 






And remember the front end needs to be off the ground, otherwise you won't be able to turn them.
 



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I haven't tried yet, I'm waiting until I get the shackles, so I know how how if at all.. I have to lift the front end. I was just thinking, frozen locktite might cause a problem.. lifted front end or not.. It might cause too much stress on the bolts.
 






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