Also, searching around the forum, I came across this picture. What is the purpose of this? Can this work with the Explorer?
Well, I had to print this picture out and take it outside for comparison. What I found is that this is not a very easy situation. While it would obviously lower the truck and raise the front crossmember, there are a number of things that would have to be modified also. Firstly, the motor mounts would need to be lowered on the inside of the frame rails so you could close your hood without the motor sticking through. Secondly you would need to also cut and z the front portion of the chassis (in front of suspension mounts) so that the radiator support would still hold the radiator without it also poking through the hood. Another thing I couldn't really tell just by looking, but the steering column linkage before the rack would need some shortening/adjusting obviously. Aside from all that, the inner tire wells and most brackets and mounts would need some removal or modification since everything will be either moving up or down from it's factory locale.
Another issue people attempting this should realize is that the chassis is not simply straight bar stock steel. it has tons of bends and gradual turns. Behind the suspension (where the chassis is cut in the picture up there) the chassis narrows width wise, meaning the chassis rails bend inward towards the tranny. I would cut the chassis in the straightest portion which seems to be right behind where it is cut in that picture. They would have had to weld in a ton of reinforcements to mate the cuts together there, so I'm not sure what the deal with that is.
I've done several chassis for Lamborghini replica vehicles (both tubular chassis and Fiero) and when a fiero based chassis is used the rear engine cradle needs to be extended out roughly a foot, and up several inches. Now with "Zing" an Explorer, this is essentially the same as what I did on those chassis' but in this case it is just going to be raised up... not forward
and up, so it should be much easier. To do that and keep everything straight all you have to do is tack a perfectly straight piece of angle iron anywhere to the chassis with a small level clamped on before you make any cuts (while the chassis is sitting on level ground at normal ride height). From there it's just making tons of measurements diagonally and every other way to make sure you're square and then welding in appropriate gussets and filler pieces.
Over all, it seems like a great way to lower the front without horrible camber problems, but there is a lot of modification required. Granted, it's not that bad for anyone who is confident enough that they could weld it safely, but it is definitely not a weekend job.
The sad part is is that I did some measurements....Even with my 20's I'd only be tucking roughly 2" in the front if I used the stock crossmember location without "Z-Ing". That thing is LOW!!