Replacing Thermostat

[NoBoundaries]

I was wondering if you all could help me.

I have the common problem of my temperature running too low (pretty much stays at cold) and I am going to replace the thermostat. Previous posts stated that this would solve the problem. I heard that I will need to replace the radiator cap so the gauge does not fluctuate, as has been a problem for many, but what else is involved? I also heard someone mention a new gasket, is this true? If someone could help me and let me know what I need, how I need to do it, and how much it will be I will be extremely grateful!!! Thank you ahead of time!!

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Tim Y.
1996 Ford Explorer

 

[CBoug76]

If your thermostat is the same as in my 97 Sport, the Gasket is on the new Thermostat when you get it. Dead Link Removed The radiator cap only controls how much pressure is in the system, If I was you, I would not change the cap unless I were to replace it with a Cap that has the same Pressure Ratting.


[Edited by CBoug76 on 10-12-2000 at 06:34 AM]

 

[sluke]

Tim Y
I just had my thermostat replaced Christmas Day. It had been running on the cold end of guage for quite some time. Finally it bottomed out and no heat from heater. My explorer is a 1991 and the therm cost about $11 and i had to buy the gasket seperate. I did not replace rad cap and i have no fluctuating(spelling?) guage at all. It was a relatively simple job, just a little tight to get to one of the bolts.

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shawna l.

 

[Syder-1]

Hi Tim,

Replacing the thermostat is a very simple procedure, and it should take around an hour. I have a 1991, and the procedure would be a little quicker if it wasn't for that one darn bolt. I am not to familiar how the thermostat housing is on your truck, but regardless of that, it's an easy job. The thermostat (195 for plenty of heat) and gasket (if sold separately) should cost around $10.00. If you don't have a manual for your truck (Haynes/Chilton) I would recommend buying one. Good luck. Hope this helps.


Syder-1

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doo doo happens

 

[darknight]

I just replaced my thermostat on my 94. It is very easy and is easier if you take off your intake tube and serpentine belt. The guys are right about that one bolt on the bottom though. Two things: If you get the therm. from the dealer, it will come with the gasket and the gasket will wrap around the therm. Second the therm. will have a little hole in it. The parts guy I talked with said that to make sure it is on the top when you put it in. It is a bleeder valve.

Darknight

 

[Syder-1]

Hmmmmmm. I was wondering what the heck that hole was for. Question answered...Thanx. I am also wondering if that would have something to do as to why the temperature guage would fluctuate if you don't have the hole at the 12 O'clock position?


Syder-1

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doo doo happens

[This message has been edited by Syder-1 (edited 01-08-2000).]

 

[Dr.Doug]

Maybe the temperature gauge would fluctuate if you don't have the hole at the 12 O'clock position. The hole is designed for the trapped air in the engine to escape to the radiator cap to be vented into the over flow bottle. If your temp gauge is fluctuating after you changed you thermostat, replace the radiator cap. These should be replaced at the same time. They wear similarly.

Doug

 

[nutboy]

i have a 92 explorer and it was much easier changing the thermostat when taking off the fan belt and tensioner - better access to the thermo bolts. also, make sure you get out all the air in the system - that can cause the temp gauge to move all over.

 

[evofro@gmail.com]

Hmmmmmm. I was wondering what the heck that hole was for. Question answered...Thanx. I am also wondering if that would have something to do as to why the temperature guage would fluctuate if you don't have the hole at the 12 O'clock position?


Syder-1

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doo doo happens

[This message has been edited by Syder-1 (edited 01-08-2000).]

dang, now that I think about it, I never did put my lil trap on the thermastat at the 12:00 position, cause Im also having fluctuating problems. Mine fluctuates from N(in Normal) to the R(in Normal) and it can be 30 degrees outside. Sure glad I found this thread though, I know what im gonna be doing saturday

 

[Shaggy433]

Tim Y
I just had my thermostat replaced Christmas Day. It had been running on the cold end of guage for quite some time. Finally it bottomed out and no heat from heater. My explorer is a 1991 and the therm cost about $11 and i had to buy the gasket seperate. I did not replace rad cap and i have no fluctuating(spelling?) guage at all. It was a relatively simple job, just a little tight to get to one of the bolts.

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shawna l.

so did it fix it? My gauge has always been bottomed out and the heat will work for a little while then just blow lukewarm....

 

[Robrt32]

Did putting the little hole at the 12 o clock position help anybody?? I'm doing battle with the same thing right now

 

[Robrt32]

I'm guessing it didn't help anyone...... darn, I was hoping...... I'm gonna put a aftermarket gauge on and get some real temps

 

[evofro@gmail.com]

I'm guessing it didn't help anyone...... darn, I was hoping...... I'm gonna put a aftermarket gauge on and get some real temps

I never did get around to turning my thermostat tap in the correct 12 o clock position. After replacing the radiator hoses cause they worn/swollen like hell, and the radiator cause it had a small pin hole crack. Eventually(even before I replaced my radiator) my temp hand stopped moving back and forth, and just keeps a steady temp reading of (N)ormal on the temp gauge, and unless I drive it for a constant 20miles at a time and then come to a stop light or just regular stop and go traffic then it goes up to the n(O)rmal on the temp gauge and I think it only goes to the n(O)rmal because I have a thinner radiator. Other then that I can't really say if that tab on the thermostat had any effect on mine at all. Lastly if you decide to put an aftermarket temp gauge, you think you could make a write up on how you did it

 

[evofro@gmail.com]

I never did get around to turning my thermostat tap in the correct 12 o clock position. After replacing the radiator hoses cause they worn/swollen like hell, and the radiator cause it had a small pin hole crack. Eventually(even before I replaced my radiator) my temp hand stopped moving back and forth, and just keeps a steady temp reading of (N)ormal on the temp gauge, and unless I drive it for a constant 20miles at a time and then come to a stop light or just regular stop and go traffic then it goes up to the n(O)rmal on the temp gauge and I think it only goes to the n(O)rmal because I have a thinner radiator. Other then that I can't really say if that tab on the thermostat had any effect on mine at all. Lastly if you decide to put an aftermarket temp gauge, you think you could make a write up on how you did it

oh yeah and one more thing, you should keep and eye on your overflow tank, to make sure its not bone dry, and to check the rubber line running to it from the radiator. Also check your coolant level every morning just to make sure your not leaking any

 

[FarmTruk]

Well, it looks like I'm replacing my '94's t-stat...again. This is at least the 3rd time, maybe 4th (160k miles).


Temp gauge has been stuck at "C" for the past summer. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed it would begin to run a little warm (not hot), but the gauge fluctuated wildly and rapidly. And the heat, while pretty warm, was not uniformly toasty.



Another thing I've noticed...the idle speed seems to creep up slightly when it's running warm. Normal is about 600-700 rpm. When running slightly warm, though, it can rise to 900-1000 rpm.

Anyone else noticed this?