Creative ignition system | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Creative ignition system

Where do you buy a signal amplifier?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I wouldn't even begin to know, to tell you the truth. I'll have to research the PATS system more, but if it can sense it from an inch away, what's to stop it from sensing it two feet away? The technology's out there obviously, it just depends on how expensive and how much of a PITA it would be to do it...if it wouldn't take all that much, I'd be more than willing to do it to have a ignition system that's fairly unique for Explorers....
 












5 kill switches could just be left in thier correct positions, and the mechanic could start the truck normally. Before you park the car at night, scramble thier positions.

The keyed switch is a good idea too, but unless you have somewhere secure to mount it, it wouldnt take anything for someone to get behind it and pull the wires and connect them ;)

Multiple hidden kill switches is best, and not just for the ignition. Fuel pump, coil, starter solenoid, etc. They can all be used =] But thats for another post.

As for the foot switch, that is a great idea. You want your kill switches to be somewhere you can get to them without it looking like you're flipping kill switches. Someone that wants your truck will watch you to see where the switches are..

Best one I ever saw was a small black rocker switch, mounted in the side of the dead pedal on the left of the drivers footwell. Flip it with your foot, and NO ONE would know it was there. ;)

custexplorer, ill have to check your diagram later, unless you want to add it to an attachement to a post. I cant see photobucket at work =[
 






doesnt the pcm get a signal from the "start" postion on the keyed cylinder? I was under the impression that other things took place aside from the starter turning the motor over to get the thing going, Spark retard for one, you'd have to make sure the pcm knows that "start" is happening otherwise its might not compensate for a cold start.
 






5 kill switches could just be left in thier correct positions, and the mechanic could start the truck normally. Before you park the car at night, scramble thier positions.

The keyed switch is a good idea too, but unless you have somewhere secure to mount it, it wouldnt take anything for someone to get behind it and pull the wires and connect them ;)

Multiple hidden kill switches is best, and not just for the ignition. Fuel pump, coil, starter solenoid, etc. They can all be used =] But thats for another post.

As for the foot switch, that is a great idea. You want your kill switches to be somewhere you can get to them without it looking like you're flipping kill switches. Someone that wants your truck will watch you to see where the switches are..

Best one I ever saw was a small black rocker switch, mounted in the side of the dead pedal on the left of the drivers footwell. Flip it with your foot, and NO ONE would know it was there. ;)

custexplorer, ill have to check your diagram later, unless you want to add it to an attachement to a post. I cant see photobucket at work =[

inh, thanks for your help, and someone else helped me last night and we got an entire wiring diagram worked out for a kill switch (or multiple) and then all the other switches.
 






Got bored at work, feeling nice, here's a diagram that SHOULD be for your 05 explorer =]

Edit: just saw your reply. Here's my take on it anyways =p

pushbuttonstart.jpg
 






Got bored at work, feeling nice, here's a diagram that SHOULD be for your 05 explorer =]

Edit: just saw your reply. Here's my take on it anyways =p

pushbuttonstart.jpg

our design is different as the switches go between each relay, and we have 3 relays, the 2nd one is ignition and accessory, and the 3rd is to the starter with a button between them.
 






Ill stick with my hidden key mounted in the center console lol, not like its just laying there, where you can connect the wires from the bottom of it, if anything, add more "dummy" wires that go no where...
 






If you want a hidden key, make it a hidden in plain sight one, get a keyed glove box lid (my gf's 95 had one) and use that
 






I would do sperate ignition and accessory, that way youc an listen to your stereo or soemthing without powering the igntion line, and therfor your entire engine..
 






Couldn't you just simulate the turning of the key with a set of switches, and simply power all the factory stuff the way it was intended?
 






Couldn't you just simulate the turning of the key with a set of switches, and simply power all the factory stuff the way it was intended?

That's exactly what my diagram does, though it has extra switches on the power to the engine, to add a bit of anti-theftness.
 






I would do sperate ignition and accessory, that way youc an listen to your stereo or soemthing without powering the igntion line, and therfor your entire engine..

The way i designed it for him, you flip a combo of 2 switches and you get accessory.. you flip 4 and you have ignition.. the 5th start the struck (momentary switch)...

If you don't get the right 2 set, no accessory.. if any of the swithces aren't right you don't get starter and each relay help power the next relay.. and you can't get accessory and ignition at the same time (figured that might be bad)

~Mark
 






and you can't get accessory and ignition at the same time (figured that might be bad)

~Mark

I'm pretty sure you have to power the accessory line or no power will go to the radio, climate control, etc.
 






Hrm.. its possible.. I don't have diagram showing which connections are connected when the key is turned to accessory, ignition and start.. At least for that new of an X.

I was going by the assumption that the accessory wire was independent of the ignition wire.. (it was late when I was helping too).

If indeed the accessory connection is closed when they key is in the "run" position then I'll have to change the diagram a little..

Of course, what I explained (he drew it.. I was just using a post it note) is by no means the only way to do it..

I'd much rather use security keypad, maybe even with with RFID for the ignition and a single switch for accessory and a button for start...

~Mark
 






Yea, I like that idea too (RFID) even though RFID is easily defeated.

Pretty sure the accessory has to be on, every car I've installed a remote start in was like that.
 






Couldn't you just simulate the turning of the key with a set of switches, and simply power all the factory stuff the way it was intended?


Yea, but then anyone can get in/bust in and start it and take off, were trying to help figure out some hidden switches, or a hidden key to mount so he flips the switch and starts it.



I JUST THOUGHT OF SOMETHING...
Will it allow you to put the truck in gear with just the switch and button setup? I thought you had to have the key turned....
 






Thats just a steering wheel lock.. Its not hard to remove.. normally.. but I don't know about his newer X

Our honda no longer has it... and it doesn't hurt anything.

~Mark
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I was under the assumption that there was going to be relays and such added to the truck. If anti theft is what you want, a PATS key is your best bet. You can use all the factory stuff and still hide a switch. Best way I can see to do this is with a hidden kill switch, and a hidden key switch.
 






Back
Top