How to: - 2nd Gen NO AC ( or heat) FROM VENTS!!! A "How to" what to look for thread | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: 2nd Gen NO AC ( or heat) FROM VENTS!!! A "How to" what to look for thread

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Good Brad, that is better than the dash unit to swap. I checked that part, it's $19 from the Tasca Ford site. I finally got through to them yesterday, and bought about $220 of parts for my LF door, regulator, channels etc. Try that site to see if they will ship to you, I like them much more now that I have spoken to someone.

http://www.tascafordparts.com//index.do
 



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One thing that came in VERY handy for me in this whole process was this drawing (posted elsewhere on EF, but I can't find the thread for the life of me):

VacuumReservoirOrb.jpg


The ports themselves aren't interchangeable and aren't labeled. This drawing was exactly like my globe, so I was able to make sure I had the right line going to the upper intake. For future reference!
 






Good Brad, that is better than the dash unit to swap. I checked that part, it's $19 from the Tasca Ford site. I finally got through to them yesterday, and bought about $220 of parts for my LF door, regulator, channels etc. Try that site to see if they will ship to you, I like them much more now that I have spoken to someone.

http://www.tascafordparts.com//index.do

Very confusing shipping policies. They say they ship worldwide and will take Paypal from international customers, but in another sentence they way they don't ship outside of the US.

In any event, nice to have other choices. Thanks for the link.
 






I would suggest making contact by phone the first time, as I did. I never went to the shipping section, I was after a couple of parts that my Ford said were obsolete. If my call was typical, they are just busy and very good at finding odd Ford parts. I would have bought my door glass also, but the man offered that they prefer to not ship glass. I asked if I would be better to get it here, and he told me that, saying yes. The glass will be $115 and tax here, from them it would have been $109 and shipping.

Psst, did Jon try to give you his old vacuum ball? That thing had water in it when he took it out. I've never seen the one in my V8, Ford hid that well.
 






Panel/Defrost door problem

Have a 3rd gen system, panel/defrost door has broken lever arm. The vacuum motor is on the passenger side just left of the glove compartment and below radio. Anyone have any ideas how to do repair w/o ripping the whole dash apart and replacing the door/pivot/lever arm? Have pic if anyone can tell me how to post (newbie). Any help w/b appreciated!! Great forum. Thanks!
 






Have a 3rd gen system, panel/defrost door has broken lever arm. The vacuum motor is on the passenger side just left of the glove compartment and below radio. Anyone have any ideas how to do repair w/o ripping the whole dash apart and replacing the door/pivot/lever arm? Have pic if anyone can tell me how to post (newbie). Any help w/b appreciated!! Great forum. Thanks!

This thread is 2nd gen (as mentioned in first post in this thread). Might want to look for a 3rd gen thread or post a new one elsewhere (your post is thread hijacking and not good forum etiquette).

Good luck finding a solution. Someone or someone from the past should be able to assist.
 






Another Merc Fixed!

Thank you Turdle for the information along with pictures that you posted, because of this I was able to troubleshoot my problem with air only blowing out the defroster vents. I traced my problem to a vacuum line coming from the vacuum reservoir to the connector going through the firewall melted shut by the exhaust manifold.
 






buy the small plastic tube from lowes and bypass everything I went from the ball all the way to couplink in picture 3.. all works great now
 






sorry but from Ball direct to back of the HVAC control is a vacuum switch connection
oh I replaced the black vacum line.
 






...Ha, I just ran across this by accident while searching for something else...:eek:

...My Ranger has had a temp switch problem since day 1 and just recently, it fluctuates the cold air from the dash, to the window for no reason...I have it narrowed down to vacuum possibly as it does it mainly when I'm giving her hard throttle...:burnout:

...I'm glad to have found this thread...:salute:
 






I am still having problems. I wonder if my reservoir crapped out after I did my front axle swap( stock 95 to 97 mounty) It was disconnected for about a month or so.

Tim
 






I am still having problems. I wonder if my reservoir crapped out after I did my front axle swap( stock 95 to 97 mounty) It was disconnected for about a month or so.

Tim

They're not overly expensive and even cheaper on eBay. I got mine at a stealership. Can't hurt to try.
 












I have a 1997 Ford Ranger with a 4.0 Eng, but when i was working on the fender I broke one of the Vacuum line from the Ball, the red one, where does it go to after the ball, theres Vaccum on it so I had to tape of off, but now all my controlls in the cab don't work. Help
 






Brad , thanks for the little drawing. I added it to the first post.

No worries Jonny. I scooped the pic from another thread in the archives. One thing to remember is that some applications don't have two outputs...only one. The concept is the same and the other version looks pretty similar.
 






I've got a 97 EB with Climate control. When i adjust the temp, I hear a clicking noise in behind the heater controls and the temp doesn't get any colder. Any ideas?
 






Climate Control Head Unit or Vac Leak

My AC only works in MAX position, where the blend door is completely closed. During the winter months, the hot/cold blend knob does not function, and the heat is full-on. (This blend knob seems to have no regulator functions for rationing heat to the vents.) When AC switch is in Normal position, blend door opens and heat comes from the vents. AC coolant pressure is good.

Using the Cruise Control, when I go down hill, the accelerator pulsates. Since both the AC head and cruise control require vacuum to function, I should look into that vacuum unit, correct? :salute:
 






My problem was that the vac line that goes from the ball to firewall was cracked (about 70% around, just enough to keep in place) just were enters to the rubber connector at the ball. Cut it, removed with care the remaining piece inside the rubber connector, slide in the remaining tubing and fixed. Just great forum, very handy.
 






97 XLT just purchase in Australia, and it looks like the orb is well hidden in under the air-cleaner box, which looks a pita to remove in itself, and then I suspect theres a mounting bracket still obscuring it...Doesnt look easy to remove the inner fender liner either with the wheel flares attached, is this what you have to do? I'm wondering if itd be easier to cut the vacuum lines and re extend to a new position and new orb...and hope that was the problem...
 



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Pulling the inner fender liner is the easiest way to remove it. The lines go in from the side right next to the radiator, so you should be able to reach the line attachments now from underneath. Night,
 






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