start-up rattle, 4.0l SOHC

[jahzwolf]

Yep..had a similar situation as Janzwolf, only in reverse. I have had the rattle for well over 100K in my truck (160K now), but it has never been that bad compared to some of the ones I hear on YouTube. I usually run Walmart synthetic oil with Motorcraft filter, but they were out of the Walmart oil when I last went there and decided to buy Quaker State High Milage conventional. Well, I've been hearing the rattle more lately since that oil change. It still is not that bad, but I realized I can't be a cheapskate when it comes to taking care of this engine if I want it to keep going (Which it has been amazingly trouble free other than the rattle and a couple of IACs). Lesson learned!!

Well here is an update...

My Explorer I went to Jiffy Lube, and they said you are not "moreen" i said no, that must be the previous owner, what kind of oil did she use..

high mileage 10w-30w.. i said ah hah!!! that is the reason the tensioner are starving for oil when i got the truck .

Since i started using synthetic and a good filter mine has quited down seriously to the point i dont hear it at all unless i get my ear up to it..

I think the synthetic oil is the answer and from other threads i see it also has to do with the weight.. never never never use anything more than 5w better 0w oil....

Pennszoil Ultra Synthetic has now added over 10K miles to this truck that had a serious rattle when i bought it. which i am sure is Chain Cassette ..

 

[Vargas]

Most of the noise I was experiencing was cured by replacing the hydraulic tensioners. Noise was reduced slightly when I replace the rear (the easy one) first. Noise was further improved upon replacing the front one. It did take one or two drives for the tensioners to "break in" and quiet things down fully. I think they have a little air trapped in them at first. Just for giggles, I pulled the lower oil pan at the last oil change to see what plastic bits I might find - figuring that might guide me to replacing one or more chain guides in the future. To my surprise, there was ZERO plastic in the pan. To my greater surprise, there was a large piece of metal. I will post a picture in hopes that Dale or another user will be able to identify it. I'm sure it is from the jackshaft or balance shaft tensioner. Hopefully which one, can be determined by it's size.

I run Mobil1 5-30 in the summer and 0-30 in the winter. I've been using the Fram filter, but recently changed to Motorcraft.

 

[KC90]

Well here is an update...

My Explorer I went to Jiffy Lube, and they said you are not "moreen" i said no, that must be the previous owner, what kind of oil did she use..

high mileage 10w-30w.. i said ah hah!!! that is the reason the tensioner are starving for oil when i got the truck .

Since i started using synthetic and a good filter mine has quited down seriously to the point i dont hear it at all unless i get my ear up to it..

I think the synthetic oil is the answer and from other threads i see it also has to do with the weight.. never never never use anything more than 5w better 0w oil....

Pennszoil Ultra Synthetic has now added over 10K miles to this truck that had a serious rattle when i bought it. which i am sure is Chain Cassette ..

This is actually very understandable. When I got my eX I change the oil and added 10W-30, rattle started showed after bout 1000 miles. After my timing replacement shes getting strictly 5W-30 or 0-30. Thanks for pointing this out, I never realised that lol

 

[jahzwolf]

Well I did something really really dumb.. I 'thought' i was adding a oil additive with 'nano' technology ceramics to the oil. After i was pouring this stuff into the engine i realized it was not for the oil at all, and drained it, but the damage was done and the motor was toast..

So now I have a RE-Manufactured Motorcraft engine on the way to replace this one.. So now i am asking the group about the best way to break in this motor, and if I should ever use any oil additives in it...

Wow a 5000 dollar mistake...

 

[69Mach1]

Well I did something really really dumb.. I 'thought' i was adding a oil additive with 'nano' technology ceramics to the oil. After i was pouring this stuff into the engine i realized it was not for the oil at all, and drained it, but the damage was done and the motor was toast..

So now I have a RE-Manufactured Motorcraft engine on the way to replace this one.. So now i am asking the group about the best way to break in this motor, and if I should ever use any oil additives in it...

Wow a 5000 dollar mistake...

Ouch! What exactly was it that you added? And what was the damage it did? Check with whoever you bought the motor from on break in. Their the ones that will be overseeing the warranty. I doubt any break in is needed. Use quality oil and no additives should be needed. Sorry to hear about the 5K mishap, think of it as an investment in knowledge and peace of mind.

 

[2000StreetRod]

additive or just eventual failure?

jahzwolf, are you sure the additive caused your engine destruction? You stated in your first post that the engine had timing chain rattle when you purchased it about 10K miles ago and that you planned to tear it down. Maybe a guide or chain just eventually failed.

You may want to avoid synthetic oil until your first oil change. Don't drive at a constant engine speed and avoid high engine speeds and lugging the engine.

 

[jahzwolf]

Thank you both for your posts... yeah i am sure it was the additive that plugged up my oil sump, as soon as i started it. I knew.. then after i did some investigation of the additive i found out what it really was and how extensive the damage would be.. it was a nano, or to the feel a very grimy additive that would plug up just about every oil tube in the engine.. it was a very sad day indeed.

I just can't believe i didn't put it together when i read the label.. and the mechanic i took it too called the company to see what they thought and they agreed the motor would have to be torn down to rid it of the damage..

So Motorcraft has the answer a re-manufactured engine. with a warranty for 3 years 100,000 miles good at any ford dealer and that is the best part!!!

the cost of the new motor 3400.. and 2000 for installation.. I dont' have the time to do it right now my own self..

Hoping i have all the updates on the cassettes in this motor and I am so going to baby this motor.

 

[coneheads]

4.0L Rattle?

Hi all, new to the site. Have a problem with my 2002 XLS with the 4.0L sohc. a couple of months ago I had what I thought was a stuck lifter, I know now that there are no lifters but "lash adjusters", anyway I changed the oil and after 30 minutes or so the noise went away. Now the noise has come back but louder than ever, it sounded like a rocker arm had come off the spring. very noisy, rough idling and the smell of unburned fuel from the tail pipe.

Just removed both valve covers (not an easy job as other posters have said) and can find nothing out of place. All the adjusters are tight and rocker arms firmly in place. Both plastic tensioners are intact cam chains are tight, the only thing out of place is on the rear cam chain on the opposite side of the plastic tensioner is a bolt that goes across the chain and has a washer type piece on the end that looks like it is supposed to keep the chain in alignment but the chain has slipped under it and worn away the washer piece which now rides on top the chain.

As I understand from previous posts that the cam chain tensioners are hydraulic so does anyone think that a collapsed tensioner could have given the chain enough slack to slip under the washer piece and is there a way to test the tensioners in place. Does anyone know if these can be replaced with the motor in the vehicle or will it need to be removed?

Thanks for any advise offered, Andy

 

[Vargas]

Thanks for any advise offered, Andy

Welcome to the forums Andy.

THIS LINK has an excellent picture in post #2 showing what the rear chain hardware should look like when it is in good condition. That may answer your question about where the chain should ride.

The hydraulic tensioner for the rear chain is a relatively easy replacement. The part is about $30 and the procedure to replace it is HERE. It is not terribly difficult. The thread has a lot of information in it.

 

[coneheads]

Thanks much Vargas,

looking at the pictures it looks like I'm missing the entire chaine guide. In the pictures you sent me to it shows the bolt/washer piece I see in mine but I don't see any plastic chain guide at all, bummer.

It looks like the motor has to be pulled to fix it with all the special tools I keep reading about, does that sound right to you?

Andy

 

[Vargas]

Thanks much Vargas,

looking at the pictures it looks like I'm missing the entire chaine guide. In the pictures you sent me to it shows the bolt/washer piece I see in mine but I don't see any plastic chain guide at all, bummer.

It looks like the motor has to be pulled to fix it with all the special tools I keep reading about, does that sound right to you?

Andy

The guide assembly is subject to breaking and you might find evidence of pieces of it in the oil pan.

You've read correctly, the motor has to be pulled to service the rear timing chain components, with the exception of the hydraulic tensioner.

 

[SCHOE2]

Start up rattle

OK guys you are freaking me out about this rattle stuff. I just bought my first 4.0L SOHC and it has a rattle when I start it up and goes away very quickly as soon as oil pressure is up, which takes 5 seconds at the most. I have had Explorers since my faithful 1992 OHV 2 door (sold it at 223,000 miles to a friend who is still my friend) but have never had a SOHC and do not know its foibles. What is that noise? Is it the timing chain stuff up front? Help!

 

[69Mach1]

OK guys you are freaking me out about this rattle stuff. I just bought my first 4.0L SOHC and it has a rattle when I start it up and goes away very quickly as soon as oil pressure is up, which takes 5 seconds at the most. I have had Explorers since my faithful 1992 OHV 2 door (sold it at 223,000 miles to a friend who is still my friend) but have never had a SOHC and do not know its foibles. What is that noise? Is it the timing chain stuff up front? Help!

Yep, cam chain noise. It's likely your hydraulic tensioners aren't holding pressure, and the nylon guides are in pieces in the oil pan. You can try replacing the tensioners and see if that helps. Some have had moderate luck just changing to synthetic oil. But it's likely new chains, tensioners and guides are in your near future.

 

[originalnitro]

To add to 69mach1, 1 chain in the front 1 in the rear. The rear chain requires the removal of the engine or trans to replace. PITA

 

[SCHOE2]

Thanks

I was a bit worried that it was something serious. Changing the timing chain is not that big of a deal. I have done timing chains before on other vehicles. Is there a special kit for this repair or is it a piece it together kind of a deal? Thanks!

 

[69Mach1]

If you do a search on this site you will find tons of info. It's been several years since I did my Ranger so I'm not that current. IIRC there are after market kits available, but the quality is not great. Most recommend sticking with Ford parts. A search here will likely get you part numbers and best places to purchase.

 

[69Mach1]

I was a bit worried that it was something serious. Changing the timing chain is not that big of a deal. I have done timing chains before on other vehicles. Is there a special kit for this repair or is it a piece it together kind of a deal? Thanks!

Don't confuse overhead cam timing chains with the chain on a push rod engine. Overhead cam engines are a bit more involved.

 

[SCHOE2]

Boy are you right

I just went through the various comments relative to the cam timing, chain and such. Wow! That is nothing like the good old pushrod engines I am used to. I am going to have to take this very slow and carefully. Thanks for the heads up and advice.

 

[69Mach1]

I just went through the various comments relative to the cam timing, chain and such. Wow! That is nothing like the good old pushrod engines I am used to. I am going to have to take this very slow and carefully. Thanks for the heads up and advice.

NP. I replaced all three chains and associated tensioners and guides on my 01 Ranger about 4 years ago. It has run like a top ever since. It was the first time I worked on an overhead cam engine also.

If you're running an Explorer you will have a fourth chain. The Explorer version of the 4.0 OHC engine got a chain driven balancer so it runs nice and smooth.