Loose parking brake

[emag]

I'm seeing a looseness/limpness in my 2000 Exp XLT parking brake as well. Actually, it's been going on for 4-5 years now. When I pull the release lever, the pedal doesn't return all the way, leaving the brake light on. I need to "lift" the pedal with my left foot while holding the release, then let go of the release while still applying lift, to get the light off. My p-brake definitely engages, as I've had some "low sleep" nights where I've wondered why I wasn't moving out of my parking spot... This evening I checked the cable (thanks for the info on where to look) and there's definitely visible slack in the line before it splits off. While it's a "minor" inconvenience to me, I'm getting tired of telling people who borrow my Explorer about this little quirk.

Is the line-cut & u-bolt trick really worth it? Or should I try the star gear adjustment thing first? This fix is probably third on my list of problems to take care of (driver's door lock actuator & latch spring being ahead of it), but it would be nice to have the p-brake functioning "properly" again.

 

[BonesDT]

I'm seeing a looseness/limpness in my 2000 Exp XLT parking brake as well. Actually, it's been going on for 4-5 years now. When I pull the release lever, the pedal doesn't return all the way, leaving the brake light on. I need to "lift" the pedal with my left foot while holding the release, then let go of the release while still applying lift, to get the light off. My p-brake definitely engages, as I've had some "low sleep" nights where I've wondered why I wasn't moving out of my parking spot... This evening I checked the cable (thanks for the info on where to look) and there's definitely visible slack in the line before it splits off. While it's a "minor" inconvenience to me, I'm getting tired of telling people who borrow my Explorer about this little quirk.

Is the line-cut & u-bolt trick really worth it? Or should I try the star gear adjustment thing first? This fix is probably third on my list of problems to take care of (driver's door lock actuator & latch spring being ahead of it), but it would be nice to have the p-brake functioning "properly" again.

I'm still figuring my problem out, so take what I say with a grain of sand. I would not try to correct your problem with the star gear adjuster in the rear brake drums. This adjusts the clearance of the p-brake pads with the drum, which is operating perfectly in your case. These are also minute changes, certaintly not enough to take slack out of the cable.

I invite you to try the line-cut & u-bolt trick on the cheap short cable under the driver's door. Do it on the short cable that is nothing but a cable with two metal knobs on each end (no black conduit). If you don't like it/screw up/doesn't work, replacing that cable costs pennies.

I also notice LMC Truck sells this $33 adjuster. LMC Truck usually sells OEM or OEM-Like parts, but my Ex certaintly never came with this piece, but maybe it's one of those things that some Ex's had while others didn't:
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fex/full.aspx?Page=80

Your other option is to replace all the cables with new ones that hopefully won't have so much slack in them. My latest theory for my problem is that I've always been replacing the original cables with Raybestos cables. It may just be that Raybestos cables are junk and prone to failure. My plan is to replace all the cables with Ford/Motorcraft OEM, just haven't had the time to stop by the dealership, please post the part numbers if someone goes this route.

 

[mtnlovrs]

I read the whole thread and decided to share my experience with the parking brake, maybe it will help, maybe not. Budwich touched on it, but nobudy really picked up on it. Budwich said, "The next area to check is the brake lever at both brakes... ensure that it is returning to its "resting" / non-operated position." This was my problem. I hardly ever use my parking brake. I only use it when I park on a hill. Last September, while on vacation, a loud grinding noise was coming from the rear brakes. I found that the original PB shoes had fallen apart and the chunks of breaking material was getting caught between the shoe and the drum/rotor. I purchased new shoes and a spring kit and replaced the brakes, but when I attempted to adjust the PB, I found they would drag - no matter what I tried and they wouldn't keep the Explorer from moving when it was in gear at idle. I also noticed that the cables were loose and they would not tighten up until the PB pedal was all the way on the floor. I was very confused and pulled my hair out for a while until I realized that the brake levers on both sides were not going back to there home/non-operating position. I removed the brakes again to get them out of the way and then went to work on the parking brake levers. They were so rusty, that it took me quite a while with a BFH and a can of penatrating lubricant to finally break them loose. I worked them back and forth until they moved with ease, then I lubricated them with a high temperature brake caliper grease. When I put everything back together, I had no trouble adjusting them and everything worked perfect. Now, when I put it in gear, it doesn't move at idle. I hope this helps you guys.

 

[BonesDT]

I read the whole thread and decided to share my experience with the parking brake, maybe it will help, maybe not. Budwich touched on it, but nobudy really picked up on it. Budwich said, "The next area to check is the brake lever at both brakes... ensure that it is returning to its "resting" / non-operated position." This was my problem. I hardly ever use my parking brake. I only use it when I park on a hill. Last September, while on vacation, a loud grinding noise was coming from the rear brakes. I found that the original PB shoes had fallen apart and the chunks of breaking material was getting caught between the shoe and the drum/rotor. I purchased new shoes and a spring kit and replaced the brakes, but when I attempted to adjust the PB, I found they would drag - no matter what I tried and they wouldn't keep the Explorer from moving when it was in gear at idle. I also noticed that the cables were loose and they would not tighten up until the PB pedal was all the way on the floor. I was very confused and pulled my hair out for a while until I realized that the brake levers on both sides were not going back to there home/non-operating position. I removed the brakes again to get them out of the way and then went to work on the parking brake levers. They were so rusty, that it took me quite a while with a BFH and a can of penatrating lubricant to finally break them loose. I worked them back and forth until they moved with ease, then I lubricated them with a high temperature brake caliper grease. When I put everything back together, I had no trouble adjusting them and everything worked perfect. Now, when I put it in gear, it doesn't move at idle. I hope this helps you guys.

By levers, do you mean the 2-piece pivoting 1/4"ish thick metal tabs that hook directly onto the cable's eyelet? If so, this is exactly where I think my problem lies, they def do not move to the full off position. I get everything set up, push the p-brake on once, then release, and the pads never again retract back fully. I took those tabs and scrubbed them down with a wire brush and lubed them to death with axle grease and still nothing. I did notice one of them had a notch worn in it, right where it rubs against the shoe pad. These of course were the 1 and only item I never replaced in the entire p-brake system. Looks like I have to get my ass to Ford.

 

[mtnlovrs]

Yep! That's them - they go through the backing plate. Mine didn't have any wear on them, though - just rusty. I literally used a BFD and lots of oil and worked them back and forth. Good luck.

 

[rocco123]

Here is a simple solution with out having to cut & splice the cable. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/...-cable-repairs-by-dorman-help-part-03006.html

Universal Brake Cable Adjuster for Emergency Brake and Other Cable Repairs by Dorman - Help - part# 03006


http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-1055-03006.aspx

 

[BonesDT]

Holy S! I think my parking brake works for the first time in 7 years! I popped open the pumpkin and replaced the 2 levers on each side and installed ALL brand new OEM cables. What was really interesting is that I noticed the side specific levers were reversed! The left one was on the right and vice versa! I have no idea how this got this way. It still works in principal though if you turn them upside down. Well, it's looking like everything is working perfectly, not sure if it was the OEM cables, brand new levers, or putting the levers on the correct side, but I am very happy. Below are part numbers:

Rear Right-Hand Cable (long one): F67Z-2A635-AA
Rear Left-Hand Cable (short one, comes with large equalizer sleeve): F87Z-2A625-GB
2-Door Sport Intermediate Cable (really short one, conduit-less cable, comes with the slip-on sleeve connectors on both sides): F87Z-2A793-DA
Lever that hooks to cable's eyelet (bi-sided, need 2): F5TZ-2C637-A
Right-Hand Lever (fully internal one): 3L2Z-2A637-AA
Left-Hand Lever (fully internal one): 3L2Z-2A638-AA

 

[yavapaires]

Why not try this for a simple, inexpensive way to shorten your e-brake cable. Parts needed, 3/8 or 1/2" bolt about one inch long, two flat washers and one nut. Loosen the brake adjustment so there is slack in the cable, wrap the cable around the bolt between the washers, install the nut, and tighten to hold the cable. You will in effect shorten the stretched out cable.

 

[joecrna]

I looked at that adjuster in post #22. I've been trying to figure out how so many people have a hard time adjusting stretched cables. Mine have small adjusters at all but two places. That's like 3 adjusters plus the pedal. We've owned the truck since new. I guess another Ford quirck.

 

[rdub315]

sorry... old thread revival...

it didn't appear that i just had a loose cable causing my parking brake to not work, so brought it to my local garage. their diagnosis was that the mechanicals were seized/rusted, so they replaced the pads, hardware, etc.

however, it still takes a fair amount of effort to activate it and it only "grabs" when it's at the end of it's travel, if that makes sense. also, no dash light comes on to indicate that it's engaged. is it normal for the brake not to grab immediately when force is applied to the pedal?

overall, i'm a bit disappointed with the repair. but maybe i'm being ****, and this is how the parking brake normally operates? for the 2 hours of labor they charged me, i guess i expected it to be working perfectly.

thoughts?

 

[96eb96]

sorry... old thread revival...

it didn't appear that i just had a loose cable causing my parking brake to not work, so brought it to my local garage. their diagnosis was that the mechanicals were seized/rusted, so they replaced the pads, hardware, etc.

however, it still takes a fair amount of effort to activate it and it only "grabs" when it's at the end of it's travel, if that makes sense. also, no dash light comes on to indicate that it's engaged. is it normal for the brake not to grab immediately when force is applied to the pedal?

overall, i'm a bit disappointed with the repair. but maybe i'm being ****, and this is how the parking brake normally operates? for the 2 hours of labor they charged me, i guess i expected it to be working perfectly.

thoughts?

It should theoretically grab after 3 clicks. Unless all the hardware is replaced, like BonesDT mentioned above, it will probably never be perfect.
Things to check:

There is a star adjustment wheel that could be out of adjustment - it pushes the pads towards the drum. either do it yourself or bring it back... This will help.

The levers as mentioned a few posts up are corroded beyond repair (or need extensive refinishing) and have to be replaced...They could be slightly binding the cable. Hardware that you refer to is just a $10 spring kit and adjustment wheel. The levers may not have been touched in that 2 hours.

The cables could still be seized - you didn't mention if they replaced them. A loose cable is often caused by rusted/damaged internal cable sheaths that don't allow it to retract. This causes the parts in the parking brake to bond together after many years of not using them. To determine this you have to unhook everything and assure everything moves smoothly.

Cheap cables that are sold in the part stores are hit and miss - but I've found the newer steel ones(non-coated) seem to hold up. The coated ones eventually bind internally because of the crappy coating or internal sheath (who knows??). One had a broken eyelet after applying the brake! The original ford cables are around but are becoming very rare. The rear cable is around $70, the parts store one is less than $20. Napa has a lifetime warranty for the cable, so Its a 10 minute job for me if it fails.

However, after being in upstate NY salt for many years the mechanism is likely damaged. Mine works pretty well but sometimes it will grab about 3/4 of the way down. I cleaned up the levers (they were in horrible shape to start and aren't perfect now) with a wirewheel, put ceramic brake grease on them, but I noticed on the right side there is a retaining tab that the levers rest on that bends a bit (probably ruined from all the force to get everything apart). To repair that I would have to replace the entire plate, something I'm not ready to do on a truck this old. I'm not even sure that is the issue, it could be the levers too, they look pretty beat up from the refinishing.

When I bought the truck many years ago I watched a mechanic suffer with the brakes for 4 hours to get it to pass inspection. It was obvious the last time the brakes were used were 7 years ago on the assembly line. His work lasted a few years...

Some inspection places here have a hardon for parking brakes. I do all my own repairs so I figure oil change places would be good for inspections. They don't know the law, and its a great reason to fail you. Now I bring it to places like Midas and they have no problem, even though its not perfect. It will always hold on my inclined driveway.

 

[BonesDT]

also, no dash light comes on to indicate that it's engaged.

Make sure they re-connected the wire to the button switch on the p-brake pedal assembly. If it is, try massaging the button switch and jiggling the wire to see if your dash light flickers.

their diagnosis was that the mechanicals were seized/rusted, so they replaced the pads, hardware, etc.

Have you not used your p-brake for an extended period of time?

however, it still takes a fair amount of effort to activate it and it only "grabs" when it's at the end of it's travel, if that makes sense.

For the record, my p-brake has successfully been fully operational after I replaced ALL components as mentioned in my last post. I suspect the new levers were a big part of it.

I think of the p-brake system as synonymous with suspension ball joints. When one ball joint goes bad, but you keep driving, it vibrates all the others and they all go to s***. Something probably went bad for me a long time ago (e.g. one of the cables seized), then the improper & non-frequent activation of the system started a road to everything else rusting & seizing.

My p-brake has loosened since my last post. I now have to push the pedal almost to the floor for it to start grabbing ... and then some to hold it firm on an incline. This is probably normal wear and like 96eb96, should be easily remedied by fine tuning it with the star gear - something your shop may not have had the patience to dial in perfectly.

I think it's crucial to tune them to make sure that both wheels have the same amount of tension. What I do is jack up the rear end so both rear tires are off the ground (chock the front wheels!). Then I fine tune the star gears and turn the tires by hand. You have to find that fine line between BOTH wheels turning completely freely when the p-brake is disengaged and not being able to turn BOTH wheels when the p-brake is engaged (pedal halfway down) no matter how hard you hug and throw your body into turning the wheel. If you can turn the tire with your arms, it's not going to hold the truck.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out. I'll see if I can get around to tightening mine soon.

 

[rdub315]

I appreciate the detailed responses, guys. I called the garage about the issues and I'm going to swing by next week to have them look at it again. I paid them to fix it, so I'll let them deal with it.

 

[96eb96]

Make sure they re-connected the wire to the button switch on the p-brake pedal assembly. If it is, try massaging the button switch and jiggling the wire to see if your dash light flickers.



Have you not used your p-brake for an extended period of time?



For the record, my p-brake has successfully been fully operational after I replaced ALL components as mentioned in my last post. I suspect the new levers were a big part of it.

I think of the p-brake system as synonymous with suspension ball joints. When one ball joint goes bad, but you keep driving, it vibrates all the others and they all go to s***. Something probably went bad for me a long time ago (e.g. one of the cables seized), then the improper & non-frequent activation of the system started a road to everything else rusting & seizing.

My p-brake has loosened since my last post. I now have to push the pedal almost to the floor for it to start grabbing ... and then some to hold it firm on an incline. This is probably normal wear and like 96eb96, should be easily remedied by fine tuning it with the star gear - something your shop may not have had the patience to dial in perfectly.

I think it's crucial to tune them to make sure that both wheels have the same amount of tension. What I do is jack up the rear end so both rear tires are off the ground (chock the front wheels!). Then I fine tune the star gears and turn the tires by hand. You have to find that fine line between BOTH wheels turning completely freely when the p-brake is disengaged and not being able to turn BOTH wheels when the p-brake is engaged (pedal halfway down) no matter how hard you hug and throw your body into turning the wheel. If you can turn the tire with your arms, it's not going to hold the truck.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out. I'll see if I can get around to tightening mine soon.

All this trouble for 18th century technology! No matter what you do this system is going to need periodic adjustment. Applying the brakes are going to cause them to go out of adjustment due to the metal stresses. Not applying them will cause them to sieze.

The shop manual suggests using a brake drum gauge, probably a good idea considering 1/1000s of an inch can represent 100s of pounds of holding force.

Regular drum brakes have an auto adjust mechanism, nothing like that here. I'm surprised they didn't use rear calipers with an internal parking brake. The Lincoln continental weighs about the same and has caliper ebrakes.

I also wouldn't rule out the tension spring in the pedal. That has to ratchet back to right position and pretension the cables to remove slack. If the cables have slack when they are applied you will get a low pedal or little grip.

 

[bigcpimp69]

 

[goldnblack]

still having issue with my 99 X, i did the 3 inch body lift and my PB cable is drooping, it used to work fine until then, has anyone else have the problem with the PB cable on the body lifts? or have a solution to fix?