Torque Converter repair cost | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Torque Converter repair cost

It's important to understand that the torque converter is bolted directly to the flywheel, so it is turning if the engine is running. Normally a TC issue would only stall the engine when it is "locked-in". But not knowing what type of damage exists physically to the TC, it's hard to speculate or rule it out completely.
You appear to have some other problem to me, honestly. Probably electrical or engine related. If your TC was trashed it would certainly kill the engine every time you dropped into Drive..
 



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Thanks, that info helps.
 






For those of you "into" this torque converter business, and the little foibles which are hard to assess:

My issue was a no-engage of the TC Clutch, code said TCC solenoid, so I took the chance, bought a new solenoid module, installed it, and wanted to test the result before I actually drove the vehicle.

I cut into the computer harness right up at the connector, under the hood, isolated the solenoid lead, had engine idling in Park, (front wheels off ground, on jack stands), grounded the lead to the solenoid, which SHOULD have engaged the TC Clutch, and killed the engine; it did NOTHING, just kept idling normally.

For a minute, I thought, aw, ****, it wasn't the damn solenoid, after all. BRAINSTORM! What if Ford sees fit to not allow fluid pressure in transmission to be available to the TC Clutch in PARK? (or NEUTRAL, probably), I put it in DRIVE, with parking brakes firmly on, grounded the lead again, and the vehicle JUMPED as it killed the engine, almost instantly, nearly romped off the jack stands! The solenoid WAS bad, and the trans. is now fixed! Cost: $260 for the solenoid module, plus oil. imp

Edit: fixed mistake
 






I know this is an old thread but im having a similar issue as many of the posters on this thread had i have a weird rattle coming from the transmission area but its only when stopped while in drive no other time as of right now its not a heat shield or anything like that. just did a fluid/filter change that stuff was nasty very dark but did not smell burnt but was almost say dark as engine oil. i did the change just to try to preserve the tranny if possible.

Thanks wayne
 






I know this is an old thread but im having a similar issue as many of the posters on this thread had i have a weird rattle coming from the transmission area but its only when stopped while in drive no other time as of right now its not a heat shield or anything like that. just did a fluid/filter change that stuff was nasty very dark but did not smell burnt but was almost say dark as engine oil. i did the change just to try to preserve the tranny if possible.

Thanks wayne

Veh. is standing still, in "Drive", engine idling acceptably, smoothly, and a rattling sound is heard? Not heard any other time? Would veh. operation be loud enough to drown out the rattle, if it was still there?

Could be something loose, possibly a torque converter to flywheel nut, which cannot wiggle when more torque is applied to it; easy to check 'em, yank out the starter, turn crank by hand, check nuts for tightness.

A rattle could be produced within the TC due to a loose blade, but this would rapidly become worse, I think, and the blade could wind up caught in the TC clutch.

A far-out possibility: a pressure-relief which oscillates, or self-vibrates, likely the pressure control solenoid, there are 2 in the 5-speed trans. Forget which trans we are lookin' at here. imp
 






It is the torque convertor. I went through the same thing. I spend a few months trying to figure it out. I had the tranny pulled and put a new torque converter in and it still did it. I then had it redone a second time and still did it. I went to another shop for a second opinion and they said they thought it was the converter and I told them I had it changed twice already so I had them replace the converter a third time and totally rebuild the tranny while it was out and low and behold IT STILL RATTLED. I them took it back and told them to put a higher quality aftermarket converter in and the rattling stopped completely. What was happening is both shops were being the cheap converters from the same company that were junk right off the bat and a quality one is what it needed. I ended up with a $700 bill in the end of all of this for some of the tranny rebuild I required them to do while it was out. The rest was paid by a warranty I had with the used car lot I bought it from.

Replace the converter with a good aftermarket one you will be happy you did..
 






Good Testimonial!

Duner's post confirms the reasoning behind the fact that IF you buy a Remanufactured transmission from Ford, it WILL come with a reman. Ford torque converter, like it or not. They evidently have been through this before! imp
 






$830 at my Ford dealership, covered by warranty.

I do not think TQ noise is anything to fix until it actually becomes an issue. I put thousands of miles on mine with the noise, and only got it fixed because I was approaching the end of the warranty period.

A few weeks later I needed a new tranny, at least it was still under warranty.

I have a low mileage 2002 Explorer with a rattling torque convertor. It is a common issue with 2002 and some 2003 Explorers and Mountaineers. It doesn't need to be fixed as it has no effect on reliability or longevity of the torque convertor. If the rattling disappears when over drive is engaged then it is not something that needs fixed. I can understand why people want it fixed as the noise sounds like there are rocks in the motor or transmission. I opted to live with mine for the indefinite future. I have noticed no transmission performance issues at all.
 






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