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1997 Explorer thermostat housing replacement

bar422

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1997 Explorer XLT
I have a 97 Explorer 6-cyl. with SOHC and I need to do the thermostat housing. It looks like it would be alot easier if you take the intake off. Does anyone have any pics showing how to do this? I don't want to just start pulling bolts/screws. Any help would be appreciated.--Thanks!
 



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I don't have any pics, but I've had the upper intake off of mine a number of times and it's pretty easy. There are 8 t-30 torx bolts holding it on. Rough instructions:

Remove the splash shield from the intake (4 small bolts-- 11/32 I think)
Remove the air intake hose from between the throttle body and air box (2 hose clamps)
Disconnect the cables from the throttle body (should be self explanatory when you look at them)
Remove the two bolts that hold the cables to the intake. I think those are 11/32 too.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the throttle body and remove the throttle body (4 8mm bolts)
Disconnect the brake booster line from the brake booster. Then, remove the two vacuum lines that attach on the back of the manifold, one on each side, pointing towards the firewall. Then, pull out the quick disconnects and pop off the hoses connecting to the bottom of the intake on each side.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the IAC.
Remove the 8 t30 torx bolts and maneuver the intake off. The EGR pipe that goes into it by the throttle body is stubborn, but will come out if you keep working at it. It's in there pretty snug.

That should be about it. Check it over closely to make sure you didn't miss any lines that I forgot about when posting this. I'm doing it from memory.

There is a pattern to torque the bolts back down when putting it back on-- it's in the Haynes manual-- otherwise someone here might have the diagram to post.

Hope this helps.
 






Thanks for the reply! I was thinking about getting a Haynes manual for it anyway so now might be a good time. Anymore info or pictures would be appreciated.--Thanks!
 












That one is different than mine....possibly newer? Any more help with this would be great!
 






Pulling bolts is pretty much what you do, though if one is hard to get to, sometimes it's easier to go ahead and remove a part partially blocking it instead of fighting against that part the whole time.
 






Since you will have it off I would put on the 03 sport track housing o, I have it on my 99. Its a little better for the fact the it has pop in sensors vs the ones the screw in. It'll be a little more expensive as you have to get new sensors as well but you wont have to worry bout them stripping the housing out. I had to replace a sensor and the brass nut stripped the housing
 












What sensors are in the housing? I know there are a couple but not sure which ones. Might as well change them too......Thanks for all the replies so far and any more input is greatly appreciated.
 






They are both engine coolant sensors one is for the Edmund and one is for the gaugegauge
 






The OEM replacement lower housing is updated, no longer uses threaded sensors.
You will have to replace the sensors with the new o-ring type with the new housing.
To confirm Motorcraft part numbers, use your VIN below. Check Amazon for pricing. GL

www.fordparts.com
 












I seen that one from EF and was hoping it went into more detail about pulling the intake but it didn't.Mine is exactly like that one and I have done everything listed but was looking for detailed pics of the intake removal if anyone has them......thanks for all the replies and anymore would be a big help!
 






I dont know if you fixed this yet or not but i replaced mine with the intake still installed. It didnt take to long as we pretty easy with the right combo of extentions and swivels. Hindsight being 20/20 i should have removed the intake since i just had to replace my vavle cover gaskets and intake manifold a couple weeks ago. But if you want to replace the T-stat housing w/out pulling intake it can be done.

Good luck
 






Well I have finally figured out how to get the intake off to get to the thermostat housing. Thanks to all who replied...it turns out there were a couple of bolts I was missing and thats why it wouldn't come off.

Now I have another problem.........does anyone have a rubber tee that goes on the end of the intake manifold hose. This rubber tee has 3 hoses all connected together. The Ford part number is 97 JZ9P904AG. If you get it through the dealer it is very expensive and only comes with an intake hose that I don't need. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated!
 






Is on the back or front of the engine? If it the back one its the pcv lines if its the front its for the evap system. The one for the evap I broke and just supper glued it back together with the pcv you can make a new one if need be for much cheaper than the dealer will sell it for
 






It is on the front just behind the throttle body. It is a rubber piece that 3 hard plastic hoses come together.The hose that is not connected anymore goes into the air hose up by the air filter box. I had to move the explorer after this broke and didn't get any lights indicating a problem so I'm not sure how big of a problem this really is? Anymore input will help.
 






It is on the front just behind the throttle body. It is a rubber piece that 3 hard plastic hoses come together.The hose that is not connected anymore goes into the air hose up by the air filter box. I had to move the explorer after this broke and didn't get any lights indicating a problem so I'm not sure how big of a problem this really is? Anymore input will help.

You might not get any lights till it warms up enough for the ECM to go into closed loop mode.

Did it break or was it lost? If it broke you might be able to temporarily hold it together with rubber cement, long enough to cover the outside with caulking to fortify the ripped area.

Otherwise, possibly you can seek a *generic* vacuum t connector, maybe on ebay or an auto parts store once you know the vac tube diameters. Examples,

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?..._Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=&_osacat=38634

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac.../N-25ry?counter=31&itemIdentifier=380212_0_0_



Another possible option is to get some rubber tubing with an inner diameter marginally smaller than the outer diameter of the hard vac lines, slip a piece of that over each vac line, then the rubber tubing will allow using the more commonly found hard plastic T connectors (or of course, replace the entire length of all 3 hard plastic vac lines with rubber hose, thick enough it won't collapse under vacuum).

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...ment/Vacuum-Connector-Universal-Type/_/N-25tf
 






The rubber piece was torn completely off so now there is a hole in the spot where it was connected about the size of a quarter. I think another tee would be the best but is there any pressure in these lines? I don't think there is but I'm not sure. I am looking at the one from AutoZone and it looks like it would work the best. The hose is about 3/4 around that is on the explorer.

BTW.....I tried to drive the explorer earlier and it runs really crappy now and stalls easily so obviously I need to repair the hose. Anymore imput would be great.
 



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^ bar422, a picture might help, I don't quite understand what you mean. Which engine is it?

There's a quarter sized hole in the air intake tube? You asked about pressure in the lines but they should be vacuum lines, a little easier as they don't push themselves apart but any connector fitting or hose has to have stiff enough walls to withstand the vac level (I don't know the specs for that)... but just about anything would work, standard plastic tees or hose from an auto parts store.

If all else fails, pull the part at a junk yard. My X has the 4L SOHC engine, if that's what is in yours (and it didn't change) I can take a look at mine for comparison purposes.
 






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